Setting Up BTT ADXL345 & S2DW Accelerometers with Klipper
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
- This video is going to show you how to set up the bigtreetech S2DW and ADXL345 accelerometers on klipper. Don't worry it's super easy too.
Check out this video's sponsor PCBway - pcbway.com/g/08Zx0p
** Affiliate links to help the channel out **
ADXL345 V2 - shrsl.com/4dld9
LIS2DW (S2DW V1) - shrsl.com/4dldc
BTT Pi - shrsl.com/47lv8
All the Bigtreetech and BIQU stuff to mod your 3D printer - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=189092...
00:00 - intro
05:12 - start the install - www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_R...
08:44 - configure the firmware
11:51 - compile the firmware
12:21 - connect device in boot mode.
13:23 - confirm the device is in boot mode
13:56 - flash the firmware
16:54 - get the serial for the new device
19:03 - Thank you PCBway!!!
20:17 - set-up the configuration
LIS2DW v1 - github.com/bigtreetech/LIS2DW...
ADXL345 v2 - github.com/bigtreetech/ADXL34...
22:55 - set your axis map!
32:24 - Don't forget the the stuff you need in the printer.cfg
34:23 - confirm the sensor is up and running. ACCELEROMETER_QUERY
35:05 - install the sensor
36:43 - let's get ready to run the test
39:09 - run the auto calibrate www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_R...
44:14 - SAVE_CONFIG
45:41 - what to do when you are done
46:42 - what's this Bonus??
Check out AccelFlasher - • AccelFlasher - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Man i'd seriously watch your video again even if it was 5 hours long. Everything worked, no mess, no bugs.... PERFECT, Really happy with your content.
I needed this 1 week ago! :D but finally deep dive into this topic, will be helpful for proper calibration. BIG thanks!
Good walk thru of the process to get it working. I am not longer hesitant to go thru the process. There was a few things I would have missed. Thanks!
The best tutorial I have seen so far! Great job!
Thanks for this video! It was a huge help and made it really easy to add a S2DW to my Ender 5 Klipper build :)
Thank you.... That is a lot to take in. I am going to be setting up an accelerometer in the next few days.
This video was a lifesaver. Cheers!
Great video mate explained it all well. I got mine working and all sorted now. I will be honest took me a while to get the axis calibration. Could not work out what you meant at first. Thanks again
Thanks for this video! Currently, this is the only video out there that shows how to setup this on the BTT-Pi. Theres not even anything in the documentation that talks about the specifics of the x,y, z so i dont know how you even found that out but glad you explained it so well!
Yeah there's like only one sentence about asxis making that I've seen in the klipper documents. I don't know how detrimental it is to the measurements but I like to try to make things as accurate as possible.
Came at the perfect time!!! Thanks man
Your welcome 😁
Thanks for making a video on this! My S2DW is on the way for a video, and as good as the document instructions were from bigtreetech, a video beats everything. Thanks!
*edit; everything worked perfectly, thanks again!
What an amazing tutorial, bro! I just started learning Klipper yesterday, and I have been running into so many issues with the whole process, but I did not run into a single problem for this part of my journey, thanks to you!
Glad to see it was helpful
@@StackingLayers I came back for 2nds. I adjusted my belts and everything so I had to calibrate again, but I needed a refresh on a couple of the commands and config settings.
You're always welcome to visit.
Thanks! Aside for some chip-specific ff errors that I had to hunt down (non a btt board), this saved me a TON of aggravation 🙂
Awesome! I'm glad tonsee it was helpful. Thank you for the super!
When I get back to repairing one of our broken Klipper printers, I will definitely upgrade to the S2DW ✌
I really like it so far. It's super easy to use.
A thousand thanks! I was looking for videos like this that would explain to laypeople how to proceed with input shaping. Excellent! But now I have 2 questions left: 1) how to read the graphs obtained and 2, more importantly, how to set the slicer (whether cura orca or prusa) to obtain the best and fastest prints...
Honestly I'm still trying to get concrete information on the graphs. The way I understand it that the solid line it the oscillation frequency of the machine and the others show what they can achieve to dampen the peak. Like tuning down bad sounds with an band equalizer. But I can be very wrong about that. I still need to do more research on it. As for slicer settings you can do various calibration tests. There are normally options in the menus that have tests to run. There's also this tuning guide that works wonders ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html
thank you!
Thanks for the video. Our printers run with old klipper so I'm hoping that the BTT ADXL345 will work!
Looks like the adxl345 was added in 0.9.0 back in 2020, but the rp2040 was added in 0.10.0 2021 so 0.10 or newer for this one.
DUDE! You are fucking amazing! Thank you so much for this this information. Nothing could've made this video any easier to follow.
Awesome!! I'm so glad it was helpful 😊
Finallyyyyy!!!
Lol! This one took me too long. I had to redo it twice because of glitching videos. 🤦
I said it with thanks, I looked for a tutorial on this particular module.
Sorry if I seemed disrespectful
No worries I took no disrespect from your comment. As a matter of fact I really did laugh out loud because that is the exact exclamation I made when I finally got it ready to post. 😂
I'm happy you were able to find it helpful.
this was working, nothing has changed but now getting this
Invalid adxl345 id (got ff vs e5).
This is generally indicative of connection problems
(e.g. faulty wiring) or a faulty adxl345 chip.
Was it working before? Maybe try a different usb cable
Excellent video! Its content like this that makes the printing community so strong and enjoyable. I did have an issue however. Running an ender 3 pro. After querying the accelerometer I got a Invalid lis2dw id (got ff vs 44) message. "Invalid lis2dw id (got ff vs 44).
This is generally indicative of connection problems
(e.g. faulty wiring) or a faulty lis2dw chip." Do you have any advice on how to remedy this? Thanks in advance.
Maybe try a different usb cable, but you shouldn't get that message with this kind of setup. It's all wired up on the board. It might mean that a component on the board is faulty.
I had the same problem. I had another accelerometer than in the video and therefore the mapping (the part where the pins are asigned in the config - cs_pin: btt_adxl345:gpio9 for example) was different. I searched for the mapping of my specific accelerometer and got it working this way.
I am having this same issue, were you able to resolve it?
Can you do a video on Klipper Shake&Tune Module?
Hi! I have a question, wouldn't axes_map: y,z,-x ?
I suggest positive z because in the case you are mounting the S2DW, z facing at you is positive and the y axis of the printer facing at you is positive too. What do you think? Am I right or have I misunderstood the axes_map positioning?😁
Btw thank you so much for the video, it is gold.💯
On bed slinger machines, the bed moves in the opposite direction of the axis coordinates. For example positive Y motion will move the bed twords the front because that makes the nozzle position be further back. All motion is based on nozzle position. So with the Z axis on the sensor pointing towards the front of the machine would make that a -Z, to correspond to the +y direction.
I have a Manta e3ez board and cb1 on the the way for my Ender 3 v2 that’s basically been beefed up top to bottom, will be adding this after I get up and running with klipper, how would suggest mounting the sensor to the bed for the calibration?
Just print out some sort of block, or clamp that you can screw the sensor onto. It only needs to be strong enough to stay in place for the test. It doesn't need to be a permanent fixture. I use this, cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/tiny-c-clamp
I just did a simple 8mm tall block that has the two 2.5mm diameter mounting holes 15.5mm apart. I also added a 2mm tall 5.9mm dia extrusion to go into the nozzle hole to make sure it stays extra sturdy. Printed with a 10mm brim. As soon as the print is done I just set the bed to stay at the same temp until the resonance testing is done.
Great help thanks. Where is the bonus script link? I see no link to any Github pages
The video link at the bottom will take you to the demo video and it's in there.
Seems to be mostly good in my case, but still can´t manage to perform the first query, tells me "Invalid adxl345 id (got 0 vs e5)". Probably defective unit I guess, thank Aliexpress for that... in any case, a further well done tutorial, thank you!
Edit: in case someone is reading this having this issue: do, as I, take a deep breath, reconsider your life choices and mental state and use the PROPER CONFIG FOR THE DEVICE... no wonder it wasn't working, I ordered the wrong unit and took the configs for the "other" one. Now it works... fml...
having bed slinger i only need to calibrate x axis? or should i mount it to bed too and calibrate y axis?
Mount it to the bed too. Then run the shaper calibrate with y instead of x. You don't have to set up another instance like it shows in the docs, since you are using the same sensor.
I mean, will there be any bigger difference in print quality if I do it only for x-axis instead of x and y-axis. btw great video, all worked smooth and with no errors!
@hatray4540 you just will not get any resonance correction on Y, so there can still be ghosting from that axis.
When you are in the terminal is that in Linux? Do I need to have a mouse and keyboard connected to a btt pi?
No it's using SSH, its a remote connection to the terminal. You could do it using command line, programs like puTTY, or even mobile apps like juiceSSH.
@@StackingLayers thank you!
how do you change the background colour? is it different than normal klipper?
Are you referring to the blue I have?
yea 40:59@@StackingLayers
You can set up themes in mainsail, but this one is the theme that BIQU made for the Hurakan printer. Here's the details for making your own edits, there are also some premade themes that you can just load up. docs.mainsail.xyz/overview/features/themes
thank you very much it looks alot better now, my adxl comes in a few weeks im exited :)@@StackingLayers
Any ideas why the device doesn't show up in the USB device list after the lsusb command? I press the boot button and do get a green light on the device.I am using the BTT ADXL345 V2
Chaek that the usb cable you have isn't a charge only cable. Some don't have the data wires inside. Also you have to hold the boot button before plugging in and don't let go until it is plugged in and on.
same issue here, the data cable is confirmed working@@StackingLayers
EDIT: I was using a USB C to USB C. It needs to connect to the standard usb on the Pi
@facemonkeys correct you need to use the usbA ports.
@@StackingLayers this is because the usbc port is only for power input and spi, right? Or am I mistaken?
@facemonkeys there are ways to make it work for various data functions, but you'll need to edit the config.txt and perhaps other things depending on the function. You also might loose the ability to power it from usbC and have to use gpio powering which bypasses the power in protection fuse.
Sadly I am stuck on step one, can someone explain how to get to BIQU@BTT-CB1? the black screen at 6:30? I am also running a BTT PI4B and CB1...
Download and install PuTTY www.putty.org/
When you open that program, there is a box to entre the host or IP address. Type in the hostname or IP address that the pi4b or cb1 have. It's the same you use to get to mainsail. Then enter the user name then password. For the Cb1 it'll be biqu for both user abd password. The pi is whatever was setup, I the default is
user name: pi
and pass: raspberry
Note that the password part looks like nothing is happening when you type. This is normal. Just type the password and hit enter.
Hi. Just got this device (the ADXL345 version) and I'm running through but can't flash. It says "Failed to flash to 2e8a:003: Unable to find tty device" (it does show as Boot under lsusb with that id) and make error is 255. Ideas?
I think 255 is a configuration error. Check the make menuconfig again. It should be like this,
[*] Enable extra low-level configuration optionsMicro-controller
Micro-controller Architecture (Raspberry Pi RP2040)
Bootloader offset (No bootloader)
Flash chip (W25Q080 with CLKDIV 2)
Communication interface (USB)
Thanks@@StackingLayers I double checked and it matches. Did a make clean and make again jus tin case, same error :(
Also tried to reconnect device.
I figured it out! Alternate flash method. Find the drive with fdisk -l and mount it, then just copy the uf2 file to the root of the RP2 drive.
@@WesleyKrasko its interesting that you had to go that route. Good to see that you got it going though.
Why did you only do the X axis and not the whole SHAPER_CALIBRATE?
Because I did it on a bed slinger machine so I have to move the sensor to the bed to do Y. On a coreXY you would use just SHAPER_CALIBRATE since X and Y are both on the print head motion.
another way to flash is simply to copy out/klipper.uf2 to the RP2040 boot drive (something like /dev/sda1)
Anyone getting this error when trying to compile the firmware?
src/dirzctl.c: In function 'command_run_dirzctl':
src/dirzctl.c:147:59: error: 'CONFIG_CLOCK_FREQ' undeclared (first use in this function)
d->n_ticks = (uint32_t)(((double)args[2] / 1000000) * CONFIG_CLOCK_FREQ) / 2;
src/dirzctl.c:147:59: note: each undeclared identifier is reported only once for each function it appears in
make: *** [Makefile:64: out/src/dirzctl.o] Error 1
Make sure to update the klipper firmmware first to have the latest. Then make sure the firmware is set like this,
["] Enable extra low-level contiguration optronsiiicro-controller
Micro-controller Architecture (Raspberry Pi RP2040)
Bootloader offset (No bootloader)
Flash chip (W25Q080 with CLKDIV 2)
Communication interface (USB)