How to fix BIQU H2 gear clicking
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2022
- My BIQU H2 direct drive extruder was plagued with the clicking gears that several complain about, although I didn't have any print quality issues so I left it alone except for slowing down my printer to minimize the sound. Well today while cleaning out some filament debris I found what I believe is the problem. Basically the holes that hold the bearings are a tiny bit too large so they are able to wobble in place. This video will show you how to fix that with a virtually free solution using Kapton tape.
Hopefully this fix works for you. let me know in the comments how it went.I enjoy reading the feedback.
thanks for watching - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Ok I did the fix and the quality now is perfect. What a great find!!
Nice! Thanks for the update. I also got better print results but was unsure if it was just my imagination because I had fairly good quality to being with. I like seeing that others are getting good results too.
whew, the clicking doesn't bother me or affect my print quality, i was just afraid there was something wrong with my extruder. i always break shit when i do maintenance. thanks for clearing that up lmao.
I had the same issue, very happy with printing quality but frustrated with noisy retractions, thank you very much for this fix.
With mine there was no play in the seating of the bearing, the bearing with the smallest internal diameter (yes, there are two different types used) was just completely shot. Which was weird because the extruder was only in use for 18 hours. I bought some high quality ones from a local Dutch shop which were pretty expensive and now the problem is completely gone. Your video gave me the idea to check the bearings... :)
I have thought about looking at some higher quality bearings myself. I think if the tape fails then I'll do that. It's still going strong though.
Thank you very much for posting this solution
I can tell you they didn’t fix it on new versions… anyway, thank for the fix ! Really appreciate 😃
well it was a nightmare to do, but after doing it did fix the retraction sound by a lot. Biqu h2 v2. Thanks mate
So I did this and also on the inner.... However, the gears were very tight. So I will now remove the inner and try it. Thanks!
Good tip and Good content !
This is still a thing with (at least some) H2 V2S's. Gonna take mine apart and do this fix!
Great work thanks
Great find, thanks
Hopefully it helps 😊
try to lower extruder curent so motor skips not grinds filament then you wont have mess inside exrtuder. my H2 runs at 350 curent, 800 is recommended for some reason. thanks for video i see if i can fix my clicking extruder now
I put tape on the four bearings, still some wobble from the bearings themselves. Clicking is still there, but a whole lot less than before. I've noticed now though that I get much greater torque out of the extruder, as before when pushing the flow rate around 15mm^3/s or higher I'd get some ticking sounds where it somehow skipped, and now nothing.
Yeah getting the slop out will make everything run better. The gears can mesh together more evenly.
Nice discovery. What are you using for your quick connect/disconnect wire connections? Looks like another great solution.
It's a BIQU hermit Crab tool changer. I absolutely love it.
thx fot that...
Hello! I'm looking to buy myself a direct extruder for my ender 3 v2. I know it's not the best printer, but i wanted to buy a nice extruder to print everything i want without limitation. Is biqu h2 worth it? There is a new version v2s, but i am not sure they had fixed the clicking. What do you think, should i go for the other option?
I absolutely love the H2, and I have bought another one, for my other machine. Despite the clicking, it prints beautifully.
Got a brand new BIQU H2 V2S Revo and has the same clicking but i don't mind it at all
I just got mine H2 V2S Revo and clicking is there....a little bit annoying as it is louder than my original Sidewinder X2 extruder...
Would loctite stud and bearing mount be an option? Good video.
Honestly I don't know, but my thought is that anything to fix it in place should work. Although I would be concerned about some of it getting in the wrong spot and fouling up the bearings. Plus I don't know how it would react with the lubricant that is in there.
Not sure what temperatures is loctite rated for but kapton tape is a safe way to do that and also avoid accidental spillage of glue into your bearing. Nice tip!
Loctite 243 has a temperature range of -55c to 150c. I was talking with an engineer friend of mine about this, and he did say loctite 243 could be used but to take precautions not to get it into the bearings. He also said that loctite is almost instantly cured in the absence of air and presence of metal so it's not likely to migrate. I'm tempted to try it, but still sceptical. Loctite also makes a retaining compound 638 that is designed for bearings so perhaps that'll be better. A big thing to keep in mind when using these type of fixing materials is that you need to make sure at least one part is not fixed so you can still service in case you get a jam.
@@StackingLayers One thing to be careful of is any reaction between the 'glue' and with plastic that the bearing sits in. I used a thread sealant on ABS threaded fitting once, it fell apart due to reaction with the sealant about a month later.... only use ptfe tape now..
@martin White it's an all aluminum gear case, no worries for reaction unless there's mercury in it.
did not fix it for me bu thanks for it
Have you had any issues with it chewing filament? My retraction settings are .5 at 4mms.
Not really. There was some bits after I had a clog when I forgot to set the correct temperature, but I never have any problems like that. I have my retract set to 0.84 at 40mm/s
@@StackingLayers ok thanks I'll try those settings and see what happens.
Make sure temp is correct for the filament too. Grinding normally happens when something it not letting the filament flow, and too cold will cause that. Too hot can also do it if there is heat creep jamming things up.
You might have one of the screws too tight. On mine there's an adjustment screw that you can turn to either grab the filament tighter or to ease up on its grip. In the beginning mine wasn't screwed enough and it stopped pushing filament and there was a mess of chewed goodness. Then I overtightened it and something similar happened but a little was still making it through. There's a sweet spot that I had to find but once I found it, it'll never change as the filaments we use should all be that 1.75mm and so it wouldn't even become an issue again.
@studio Vulcan Unless you have a new H2 V2S LITE or Revo version, there are no pressure adjusting screws on the H2.
I'm wondering how to convert the e-steps info??? The instructions say the number is 932mm at 16 microsteps. I'm using this extruder on a CoreXY printer powered by a Lerdge K. Currently my motor number for the extruder is 650? Can you respond? Thank you.
If it's marlin you are using you can send M92 E932
M500
M501
@@StackingLayers yeah, it probably is but there’s no way to send gcode instructions. Ledge is strictly English.
According to the official website you can set E0 steps in the Motor settings under step value. m.lerdge.com/document/detail/Step-value
@@StackingLayers you’re brilliant and I’m too lazy to read. Step value is 68.5? Now I have to find a way to thank you.
It should be 932 for E0. It's a 7:1 gear ratio so the motor has to turn 7 times to make the output gear turn once.
Anybody tried sticking capton on the shaft itself where the shaft touches inside the mini roller?
I have not tried that, but it's the case hole that is a bit too big, at least with my unit.
@@StackingLayersThanks for responding. Roller holes are too large. Capton over outside of the rollers is a must. Thanks for your big expoloration. I just wonder if also applying capton on the shafts may improve even better besides the capton on the roller.
This video explains in depth the importance of direct drive gears for the final quality of 3d prints => th-cam.com/video/c6JmCdovE0U/w-d-xo.html
Clicking sound is not an issue for me at the moment. But i consider improving h2v2 gear stability just to get rid of z wobble like defects and improve my printing quality.
EDIT: I've made your fix at last! It made retractions really quite. Only drawback is that reassembling has become really hard. Before this mod I didn't even have to get the extruder out of the mount to reassembly. When I had jams I used to disassemble only half of the extruder, fix the jam and reassemble the extruder while half of the 2xtruder was still in its mount. After your mod because of tight tolerances only way to reassembleI the extruder is getting extruder out of the mount. Once the mod is done no clicking sound on retractions anymore. I couldn't use capton on the rollers on motor side of extruder as one of them is hidden behind the motor gear and the other one was already tight in its hole. Shafts were already tight in rollers so there was no need to use capton on shafts.
I have a huge stringing problem :(
What are your retract settings?