BIQU Micro Probe review with a printer saving tip included.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2023
- Today's video is going over the new BIQU Micro Probe. This is a tiny bed leveling device that is very accurate.
Affiliate links to help the channel grow.
BIQU MicroProbe -- shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=189092...
H2 V2S Lite Direct drive extruder -- shrsl.com/47lv7
BIQU/Bigtreetech Official sales site -- shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=189092...
Printer Setup:
* BIQU Hurakan
* BIQU H2 V2s Lite
* BIQU Micro Probe
* Klipper Firmware - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ตัวอย่างภาพยนตร์ Venom: The Last Dance [Official - Sub Thai]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DHPjvAwmnRE/mqdefault.jpg)
Hopefully more manufacturers get on board with the wiring idea. When it comes to sensors and stepper wire colors and arrangements its like a free-for-all. Having reasonable standards make life easier for everyone.
It would be nice to have a global standard set. It would take a lot of work to get everyone on board though.
Great job on your video, it was made really well, lots of information, explained exceptionally well.
Thank you 😊 I'm glad you like it.
Upgrading a printer and was swapping out a BLTouch because I couldn't get the accuracy I wanted. This is looking like a great replacement. Right now they are out of stock so going to have to wait a bit before I can get one.
Side note, I've been using a regular Biqu H2 for a couple years now and really, really wanted the V2S that you're using but found out the nozzles are proprietary. Are you still using the stock heat block or did you switch to something more compatible? I was thinking a CHC pro block (high flow-volcano length) and the proper heat break would be a reasonable replacement.
I'm still using the stock setup I did just buy a 0.4 that they now offer, I might set it up tonight. But I am thinking about swapping out to a standard heatbrake setup, maybe a dragonfly like my other H2 has. I don't do much that requires high flow.
Awesome tiny 👍
Brilliant video, out of interest do you have a review of the BIQU H2 V2S Lite? I was about to buy a H2 V2 but like the idea of a lighter version so wasnt sure which way to go
That's my next video, I'm hoping to have the time to do it soon.
Thank you for this presentation video you convinced me to buy one now that I have it I need your help😅 I have a bl touch for the moment and I wish to switch it to microprobe I have a octopus pro board so it uses the specific pin outs not the z limit+ servo do I have to modify anything in Marlin if I used bl touch previously ? Or it should work out of the box ? Thank you for the video good work keep it up ! 🖐️👍
Did you hook it up and fry it? Bl touch firmware will cook it and ruin it. I still haven't figured it out.
Looking at the printer, it looks like a hurakan right? Are there any nozzle offsets you need for using an H2 v2s lite, and would they be the same other than z for a regular v2s?
Yes it's a Hurakan. You will need to adjust the home offsets. The x and y would be very similar to the regular v2s yes.
Thanks for the great video. I got mine, too but haven't installed it yet. I really want to see the insides :D
I would like to see inner workings too. Unfortunately it looks like it will damage things if opened.
I use an induction probe and SS flex sheet for my bed, primarily for speed and simplicity and cost. Induction probes can be had for under $15. The downside is that, with few exceptions, you need a metal bed. I'd like to try garolite beds or other surface materials I've thought of over the years but the induction probe always stymied me and BLtouch style probes are a nightmare as a rule. This, however, looks pretty sweet in regards to its virually motionless pin travel. I'm actually considering using this.
I can say from experience with BLTouch and now this probe, they are very easy to work with. Wiring and configuration are simple and fairly straight forward. The most common problems I see with the BLTouch is people wiring them wrong. They follow a tutorial and instead of paying attention to the PinOut diagrams they just follow the wire colors in the tutorials. The problem is that companies making the wires don't all use the same colors. Creality is the worst, because they have two ways they do the colors and one of them puts red on a ground pin and black on the 5v pin, so people end up shorting pins and connecting thins backwards.
Inductive probes are drifting with temp. As soon you use a enclosure clicky style probes win.
With Klipper firmware, clicky and a extra z endstop you even can do auto z calibration.
Good review. Thanks.
You made me order one. 😄
Cool! Keep in mind that the gpio pins are numbered differently than raspberry pi pins. This is the key to find the equivalent numbers github.com/bigtreetech/CB1#40-pin-gpio
does it rattle during high speed moves? crtouch and bltouch did so I'm wondering if this one's any better
I haven't noticed any rattling, although I don't print much over 80mm/s since I have bed slinger machines. I never had a rattle on the BLTouch either.
Hey,
I have a quick question at what height did you set the micro probe (how much higher are you from the nozzle away)
It only needs enough to be out of the way when retracted and lower than the nozzle when deployed. It doesn't have a big travel distance before triggering like the BLTouch and CRtouch. The microProbe triggers almost immediately upon contact.
Can you share your corresponding section for it? I've never been successful at setting up any bltouch style probes with klipper, I just got my micro probe and I would love to set it up on my Vzbot!
I recommend to check out the user guide. The micro probe is defined differently than the BLTouch since it's a clicky probe type of trigger. Mostly it's copy paste, just adjust the probe offsets to meet your machine setup. github.com/bigtreetech/MicroProbe/blob/master/MicroProbe%20User%20Manual-20221223.pdf
Great video bud. Good to see that Chief Experience Officer title being put to good use ;-)
Given that everyone else is asking for an STL or something, have you got an STL for that lego brick?? lol
🤣 sure. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2626413
great review! stl for the fan?
www.printables.com/model/146957-mad-modular-air-duct-for-biqu-h2-h2-v2s-revo-h2-v2
Hi, awesome information, could you share yours klipper information regarding the probe ? I'm trying to install it in a creality 4.2.7, can't get it to probe. Thank you
This is the video I made to show how to configure it with Klipper th-cam.com/video/q6ffmH99hRA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yxi7hEJtolhl6CVv
I think you can install it between cooling nozzles, there is a two threaded holes in the extruder
I'll have to measure that. That would be a good spot if it fits there. I would have to redesign the air ducts but that would make for a more compact setup.
@@StackingLayers there is 15mm between centers of the holes, m3 thread. Can you please share the link to probe, cant find on AliExpress 🤷🏻♂️ have you measured how the heating affects the probe?
It's slightly wider at 17mm on center and the holes are 2.7mm for m2.5 screws.it could be drilled to fit possibly but there's the other issue of wire clearance. It would need a little bit of a spacer. It might be possible but not worth it for me at the moment.
nice review seems like a better option compared to the BL touch and any clones. is it easy to install as in wire it up? i have a skr 1.4 turbo currently use an end stop as its pretty reliable me manually leveling. i tried a bl touch couldn't get on with it though.
ive just bought a v2s revo extruder expecting it to arrive any day but im having issues with finding a fan duct i like. like your lite version it has 2 screw holes near the extruder fan so i want to use those. the ones near the motor i want to use for mounting it at least the top and bottom ones. im all for simple stuff like simple fan ducts with good coverage. but a lot of designs i see theyre intricate or complicated when they dont need to be
The probe is pretty easy to set up. It is different than the BLTouch and Crtouch since it's a clicky style contact, basically a retractable z endstop switch that you can move around. The users guide shows the set up pretty clearly. You still need to do proper probe offsets like the BLTouch and it wires up identically.
@@StackingLayers cool thank you for the information. sounds like its close to using a z end stop thats a better way to do it i think. definitely got to get one of these then sounds like it will solve the issues that i had with bl touch not working great. and its understandable its probably better as the bl touch was essentially the first of its kind.
@@StackingLayers i got my probe but i am confused how to setup the height in the z axis i did ask on the biqu group but that was days ago and no replies. at the moment i got it set so that the probe fully deployed the little nubby bit sits below the glass surface i think this is ok but im not sure now what to put in the settings for the z. the rest of the settings are pretty easy i just need to tell it where it is in relation to the nozzle but i am a bit confused on the z height setup.
how do you think is best to set it up in the marlin firmware? and how would i go about testing it and then adjusting if nessecary. ive never really setup a probe before so its all new to me. i can plug it into my computer if need be i have Pronterface maybe its best to use that rather than home and risk braking something.
thanks in advance
@@TotoGuy-Original with Marlin I recommend setting up z probe wizard. It's in the configuration_adv.h file. It will get you a perfect offset. Check out Mike's video on it. th-cam.com/video/fN_ndWvXGBQ/w-d-xo.html
@@StackingLayers cool Thankyou much appreciated 😊
Hi, quick one on the Z homing configuration in klipper - is it required to use homing override to tell klipper to use probe_deploy and probe_stow macros during Z homing? Thanks...
Nope.
@StackingLayers thank you and what about any changes to the current Z endstop switch, anything needed there? Can it stay as the means of extra crash protection?
It doesn't really work that way. The probe replaces the z endstop. Once homed the software endstops won't let the machine go out of bounds. You could probably make a gcode macro that triggers a full stop if the switch is hit, but it shouldn't be necessary.
@StackingLayers and yet you are saying I don't need to make any changes to the current z endstop setting? I asked about the homing override because I currently use it for better homing procedure due to sensorless setup and I always noticed the safe z home setting with this probe in various sources including your video... which I can't use since I have the homing override enabled, but I guess I can add gcode in there for Z to sort of replicate what safe z home does. And yes, I noticed that when I have the probe deployed, it won't let the toolhead go below it once it touches the bed... but I was also wondering what tells the probe to deploy when I send for instance G28 in case it's stowed? I haven't had a chance to fully play with it, barely just mounted it on one of my machines and tried if its base functions work and what happens when it touches the bed... you know, tried probe_calibrate... but haven't yet ran a normal G28... will try it all tomorrow when I get back home. Thanks again for your kind responses. Much appreciated.
I have the btt octopus pro f429 board and bl-tough sensor. I could not get the anti bl-touch to work except for power. I ended up using an ezabl probe that does work well. Better than a probe type sensor I would not know. I would try this btt probe if i knew it was going to work.
It will definitely work if configured and wired correctly.
@@StackingLayers thank you. I then need to find info on how to wire it up on my board. The Octopus pro sometime has dedicated pins for it. But i would love to have a guide the lays the steps out for me if possible. Also some of these type of sensors are wired up backwards making things even more confusing.
It wires in the probe port. Bigtreetech and BIQU are basically the same company and mostly all their products are compatible with each other. The probe pins are labeled as are the octopus pins. The users guide on GitHub shows the setup. I also have the video showing it step by step, if you are using klipper.
I'm getting ready to buy this probe for my Ender 3 Pro. Do you happen to have any kind of discount code from Biqu?
Haha I wish. They are not a sponsor or anything like that.
Hi have you had any chance got it to work on your ender pro on Marlin?
It works but you must compile the firmware as described in the user guide. Setting appropriate pins for your controller board. It cannot be defined as a BLtouch. github.com/bigtreetech/MicroProbe/blob/master/MicroProbe%20V2%20User%20Manual_20240330.pdf
It is not a “clicky” style of switch.
This is simply a matter of configuration. You can set BL and CR touch probes to do the exact same thing. Between Marlin and Klipper this would be referenced as either Persistent probe deployment, no stow on probe, or sometimes rapid probing. It’s a function of your configuration, not the probe itself!
I utilize this exact setup on my Klipperized E3Max with a CR touch. The persistent deployment added with fast travel movements really makes bed meshes lighting fast.
At time of making this video (V1) it was a click switch closed when perssed. And now (V2) it's a light sensor open when pressed. It does not function the same as a BLTouch or CRtouch. Those send pulsed trigger signals where the microprobe sends a steady open or closed signal.
im having problems with mine i got my z offset done and level the bed with 9 points. but my first layers are garbage you can see some parts are absolutely perfect where others are all rough and missing parts. the z is lifting slightly you can see the motors moving a little causing the filament to miss parts and lift. ive ruled everything else out by taking apart my extruder found no issues, ive tried cleaning the bed and reapplying glue ive tried different rolls on the same print and it does exactly the same every time.
any suggestions on how to fix this? i never had this issue before just using an end stop
Sounds like the offset is still not correct, so that it's compensating in the wrong spot.
@@StackingLayers I run the z offset wizard then moved the nozzle down until the paper dragged a little same as when I used to level the bed maybe that's wrong then
Your x and y need to be precise too otherwise it will think it's in a different place than it is. Also the paper will get you very close but it could need a little more adjusting from there depending on the thickness of the paper.
@@StackingLayers ive learnt my springs may be the problem ive got those stronger yellow springs but several people said i should use silicone or solid spacers instead of springs. i even saw one video saying if you use a z end stop the yellow springs if you use abl the silicone so im going to try that.
I have springs on all my machines. Never had an issue caused by them.
Can yiu provide a link to the STL you’re using to adapt the Hurakans mount to the new direct drive extruder/print head?
I can't remember where I found the original, but here is the same one.
github.com/Pneumanifest/BIQU-Hurakan/blob/main/H2V2sLITE_to_Hurakan_Mount.3mf
@@StackingLayers thanks, now all I have to do is figure out how to look at that kind of STL file.
Just open it in your slicer program. Most will open .3mf it's becoming the new standard for mesh files
@@StackingLayers I'll give it a try. DO YOU HAVE A MOUNT DESIGN FOR THE MICROPROBE?
the mount has holes for the probe or you can use this to mount it on the side like in my video. github.com/Pneumanifest/BIQU-Hurakan/blob/main/Micro%20Probe%20Mount.3mf
Can this be used to home Z axis?
Absolutely. It's recommend to do it that way for the best results.
Hi! How do I install the microprobe v2 on the biqu bx? I'm using looxonline FW
You will have to modify the firmware as shown in the user guide and recompile it. It's not plug and play since it's designed differently from the BLtouch
Where can you get the firmware? User guide is so unclear in terms of firmware and wiring specifically.
This is a item that you have to make modifications to firmware. If you are using Marlin you'll need to make and compile a new firmware for your machine. With klipper it's a bit easier since you just need to add the new probe info, then save and restart.
Hello,
Looks like packaging has changes - setting up for the first time -
Package says in RED " WARNING - don't connect before correct firmware configuration ...
So far only seeing videos - on dong config on klipper - all seems rather simple.
Any thoughts ideas, on what that may be about.
Thanks
Yeah many are plugging it in to systems that are set up for a BLtouch. This has been shown to potentially damage the probe since it's not the same electronics nor sensing method. It's always best to do firmware before plugging things in.
@@StackingLayers - Kind of took a guess based on the documentation that I would be ok - I think the firmware comment applies more to Marlin - worked out - got it all set up.
Thanks for your videos !!
Yes
Do you have a purchase link for Europe? I can't find it
I just bought it directly from BIQU biqu.equipment/products/microprobe-v1-0-for-b1-printers-h2-extruders-ender-3?_pos=1&_sid=1c118494b&_ss=r
I have this but can't figure out how to do the firmware on my 4.2.7 board on my ender 3 pro.
Did you figure it out yet?
It needs to be set up in the configuration.h file as per the documents and then recompiled to make a new firmware.bin to install.
@StackingLayers I ended up having Miguel Risco building me custom firmware look for my Ender 3 V2 extender with the microprobe. It's a pro platform with the v2 screen and firmware.
One thing you need to keep in mind for the microprobe: it does not use the same firmware as a bltouch. The sensor control pin is a on/off signal here while the bltouch and crtouch use a pwm signal/servo angle signal. So you need to do the changes from the manual to your firmware or cfg
I found out the secret behind the accuracy of the probe: the probe pin is part of a electrical circuit that gets opened upon contact
There is a point of improvement possible: a the probe output signal is a normally open signal, meaning the sensor circuit is open when the probe pin is extended. Downside is that the firmware wont detect a broken wire this way. A normally closed logic would be better
Yeah I made another video showing the setup process, for Klipper firmware at least.
The newer V2 is using a photoelectric sensor and is in a normally closed type of configuration.
I tried the microprobe V2 with an octopus v1.1 and it kept disconnecting klipper the moment the 5V pin came in contact with the microprobe. I purchased 2 microprobes thinking the first might have been defective. I followed the instructions listed on btt's github but in the end I gave up and went back to the bltouch since it worked with the same pins I used with the microprobe indicating that it wasn't the board's problem and that it really was just the microprobe not working. It's a shame, since it's so small and compact which would have been perfect for my use case.
That is very bizarre. I have 3 of them now and they all work great. When you say it's disconnecting Klipper what do you mean by that? You get an error message? Are you using the same firmware as the BLTouch or did you make changes for the microProbe?
@@StackingLayers Klipper disconnects similar to when one does a save_config command and klipper disconnects and resets and thats when the 5v pin is placed on the header while the printer is on. When I pre-place the connectors klipper doesn't even connect citing a serial id connection error which I know is false as I can just remove the microprobe and klipper connects just fine. I made changes to the firmware according to what was listed on the manual for a microprobe v2.
Wild it sounds like it's some how shorting the board. Are you certain you are plugging it in the correct direction? If it's plugged in reverse it will short 5v to the sense pin and that can definitely do what you are describing.
@StackingLayers I'm 100% it was plugged in correctly as I read off the probe silkscreen rather than the wire colors since we those aren't reliable. I might just replace the terminals with single dupont connector and place the 5v and ground on one of the fan connectors, leaving the sense and probe pins on the dedicated probe/bltouch pins.
Microprobe V2 is quite power consuming while extracting the pin. It draws about 600mA for a short time. Maybe this hit restarts your board.
Do you have a how to video on how to instal?
If you are using Klipper I have made this one th-cam.com/video/q6ffmH99hRA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=q31ExKJMIxIzxY1U but I don't have one for Marlin.
Can i use this on Ender 5 (4.2.7) ?
Yes. You'll just need to set up the firmware for it. And of course plug it in correctly.
Correctly, you mean rearrange the wires?
I mean to just have things in the correct pins. So many problems with probes not working are caused by people not connecting correctly. One important note is to never trust that wire colors mean a certain polarity. Always match end to end to what they are connected to.
Yep this confirms it. something happened to my probe and it will not fully retract. Something happened during the last print when i turned the speed and it started scratching the bed and noe the retracted position always hits the bed 🤔
The probe tip screws in. Maybe it came loose. See if you can tighten it back up
@@StackingLayers ok thanks for the tip!
Ok so that worked! I used some pliers to tighten it all the way but I am still a little worried that it could come loose at higher speeds 🤔 I'm thinking it was never tightened though because it is sitting up higher than it ever has. But we'll see I need to recalibrate the probe offset and run a test
I've see that happen to a couple users, but I think it's a case of just not being tight enough from the start.
Ok so I bought another one because the first one kept unscrewing. Now this second one is doing the same thing 😮💨.
No matter how hard I tighten this probe tip it keeps unscrewing.
can you help out the less knowledgeable, can you post or share a link on how to modify the firmware
I have a B1 and I am trying to learn but I am getting nowhere on understanding how to changes to it or even where to start looking,
I downloaded the manual and have read it and I have no idea what to do, do I make the changes directly at the printer or do I plug in the computer to the printer,
With the stock B1 you will need to recompile the firmware after changing the settings described in the user guide. It's Marlin firmware, so you can't just edit a config file like with Klipper firmware. Teaching tech and Chris Riley on TH-cam have some good videos on how to edit and compile Marlin firmware.
@@StackingLayers thank you, I will start looking their videos
@@StackingLayers ok thank you for the info
I have just installed the Microprobe V2. Config is as per recommendation from BIQU themselves. All is wired correctly.
I have the 3 clicks on startup, I can deploy and stow the probe on demand.
However... I can't home the printer with this. First of all... I ordered the V2, but the product says nowhere its version. And this is important because of the [probe] pin: xxx config part. Where the V1 uses regular "^pin", the V2 uses "^!pin". If I set my probe to the config as V2, the printer will say "Endstop z still triggered after retract". If I set it as V1, the probe will descend but the redlight never turns on and if i put my finger to the needle to make it retract, nothing happens.
I have an SKR 1.3 mainboard and this board does not have the PROBE dedicated pins. So I just use the Z-endstop and the black and white are respectively GND and the endstop pins.
Would you have any idea of what could be going on?
The version is printed on the circuit board of the probe.
My V2 doesn't seem to have a red light or at least I cannot easily see one if there is.
Double check that you have it defined to the pin that you are connected to and that all the wires and connections are securely attached. From what you are describing it sounds that the board is not receiving the trigger signal. V2 is open when triggered.
@@StackingLayers thanks for your help. Eventually, after removing the cable I was able to spot the V2 markings.
I enquired about the red LED as on your video you can clearly see the red light when the probe is "armed".
For science I assigned the pins associated with z+ for the probe while it was connected to z-. Upon querying probe on both situations I would get triggered if the probe was programmed to z- pins and open for z+ pins. Remember probe was always phisically hooked up to z- pins. So everything should be properly connected. With this sanity check I ensured I have proper contact on the probe end and with the proper behaviour of the deploying and stowing I know I have good connection on the servo side of things. It is just that the probe does not behave as expected, being always triggered.
I honestly am starting to believe I got delivered a faulty probe.
Upon close inspection I can see a change in the LEDs when the probe is deployed to search for the bed. However with the config recommended by BIQU, the behaviour is always as I described. The tool head homes X and Y, goes to the center position of the bed, it deploys the probe and instead of moving the gantry down, immediately moves 10mm up or so as it would upon finalizing probing the bed. It gives the mentioned error "endstop z still triggered after retract".
@@joaosimoes5508can you check the needle? My needle can move backwards and forwards. If needle goes backwards and incline slightly , any movement can trigger probe and klipper gives error. I think design of needle holder is flawed. When I will dismantle the probe i will update.
So...ordered a geeetech bltouch clone v3.2. Was having trouble with it as well by direct replacing my old bl touch with the same config. it so happens that the newer bl touches V3 onwards require the pull up resistor by means of adding a ^ before the pin designated to actuate the endstop.
This intrigued me. Further investigation revealed that my board does not accept pull up resistors by adding characters to the config as it has physical resistors. This makes the v3.2 not work as expected. I then connected the v3 2 signal and ground pins to the TH1 pin and ditched the ^ as this is a regular clean pin. It works like a charm. I then tried to install the biqu microprobe with the same line of thought but the behaviour remained the same as before. I firmly believe I have a bad probe.
Fortunatelly works better than cybertruck
not small enough) can't see on aliexpress
I just bought the microprobe v2 and theres nothing here to tell me if I actually have a v1 or v2 but looking at my wiring diagram and wire colors its very different from the ones that you are listing here. I have white, black, yellow, red, black. Which according to the documentation is Probe(pc13), Ground, Servos(pe5), 5v, Ground. The instructions they give you for this thing is AT MOST "it's the same as BLtouch". I've never owned a BL touch or installed anything like this before. So good luck everybody
It's not the same as the BLTouch other than that way it's wired, the firmware setup is different.
Do not set it up as a BLTouch in firmware, it might damage the probe.
The probe has the version number printed on it, along with what the pins are to be wired to.
As for the colors, look at the instructions and what you wrote, they are both the same as I described in the video. The photo of the wired up probe in the instructions has the probe tip pointing up and I'm holding it pointing down.
@@StackingLayers I have the wires fed through my printer, nothing plugged in yet. I'm trying to figure out where to mount it. Does the probe need to be a certain distance in relation to the nozzle tip? Whats the best way to position this thing
Position it to be high enough that it clears the nozzle when retracted. It doesn't need a long trigger space like the BLTouch
Thanks for your reply. I guess I'll learn about how it knows when I install the software. I found out from a random model on thingiverse that the bltouch has its own special spot inside the ender6 hotend fan shroud. I think I'm gonna figure out how to use the same mounts but extend it because the microprobe is so much smaller