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Cool shots! Ive never had ossues with these plastic canisters when brand new, but i know this film is rather sensitive to light piping on the first few frames of the roll. What helped me was loading ATM400 in very dim light.

Nothing plasticity about an f3 that thing is solid and the exterior is brass

The Fed 2 is a very nice HQ camera as long the shutter is light tight and the rangefinder is well adjisted, you can find new shutter clothes and repair service at FEDKA online shop. The soviet Industar and Jupiter lenses are excellent too! They feature Zeiss Jena made lenses. During the 1950s and 60s GDR Zeiss Jena and Meyer Optics Goerlitz shipped tons of Tessar and Sonnar lenses to USSR in exchange for oil and cars. The Industar lens 2.8 is a real Tessar by Carl Zeiss Jena GDR and it even has lanthanium glass and the later ones from the 1970s on are multi coated and is the sharpest and best of all soviet normal range lenses. Its even sharper than the Jupiter 2-50. We tested the Industar lens vs the best western brands, its realy good and performs as well as most older western Zeiss and Leica lenses.

Please test GDR made Beier Precisa II with the great Meyer Görlitz 3,5 75 lens

Batteries are not make like they used to be.... when not in use I always remove Batteries to avoid leaks and camera damage....

great video, nice to see something about this unusual film.

Aly, what a great video..I do have the same camera as you and before starting to take some pictures I revealed 120 film to 620 rolls..but the work with that old camera was so pleasent having in mind that the era is such a long time gone...i was searching to have some rolleiflex, but i do have these originals and the standard one, however being born in Czechoslvakia I like to use our beautiful cameras Flexaret..they are nice as well! Keep going with your old cameras but with your fresh eyes!

Nice camera, but ... two photometers ?

Superb tutorial on H2U the Canon Ftb Ql. Congrats x 10000 !

The F3, while a vintage film camera, feels too modern for me. It is a great camera, but I still prefer the F2 with its early '70s vibe.

enjoyed it! pictures look nice. considering to buy with a help of my friend who lives in Nizhny N.

How well does it shoot?

as its motion film, you said at 3:11 you used D76, but was there any 'rem jet' layer to deal with?, or extra steps (pre-wash) prior to using D76 as most 'motion' or 'cine' films have this anti-halation (remjet) layer to protect the film from reflections inside the metal camera body; also any grain issues, like more/less or chunky\smooth than the fact sheets lead you to expect, esp. when using this developer. Can you use ID11 or other developers(Ilfosol 3) as successfully, or do things change, aka sharpness, speed when using different developers)

one tip, the M/X is actually a delay, for chemical 'burn' flashes {M} which needs a 1/60th second advance before shutter release (so the chem burn can be colour accurate, to 5600K daylight)- it takes this long for the colour to stabilise, most of todays 'flashguns' are xenon bulbs (a modern take of neon signs) these, like fluorescent bulbs fire instantly, the 'charge' fired across the metal inside instantly gives correct WB from the outset, so no need for this delay, so set to X, for Xenon flash.

Merry Christmas!! Thank you for your video! Got a Brownie Target Six 16 for 2024 Christmas. Video is a big help, did the same, pulled the metal faceplate off, re-glued viewfinder mirrors, cleaned everything. Mine had a spool as well. I found adapters online, (ones listed are out of stock) as well as 120 film. Will find you one fb and post my box camera pictures!

Yes. Definitely try it. Merry Christmas and happy New year to you.🎄🎅

yes, great for long lens MF work, as the pan bar extends leverage; the knob on the bottom is to lock the head, its called a 'bowl mount' in the video/cine world, you use the bubble level in conjunction with this, tip the pan head down, so you can see the bubble, loosen the ball lock, and level the head, this keeps pans horizontal, the tilt/pan is for motion, NOT levelling, think of this as a geared head, use it similarly, don't use up degrees of motion by using it to level the camera, its full motion is for compositional adjustments.

yes, love darkroom and developing content :-) but a question, for 'newbies' to black and white, what film do you suggest, Kodak films, or Ilford hp5 or fp4 as there is a lot of data about them, enough to confuse most of us, esp. beginners, not used to reading these technical documents. I have shot Fuji Acros 100 but lately I have stuck with colour, Kodak Gold 200 in 120, it works for my Architecture and street 'art' shooting.

Miss your long videos. Please make one soon 🥲🙏

great to see you into the 'dark side', one interesting fact that I've found out, C41 and Pyro type developers have dyes in the formula, which, upon silver reacting to the coatings, rust them, activating these dyes, toning the image slightly, hence the darker image, so something to watch out for, esp. with unknown film (street Kandy for eg, or new to you films), as these factors need to be exposed for, aka more light, or filters, etc. to reduce contrast on exposure, to allow the dev. step to bring it back up to envisaged levels or to adjust asa from the outset, to achieve the desired results.

in those early years no standard format existed, so you had 4x4 (the 'baby' or grey rollies), 127, 620, 120,1/4 plate,1/2 plate, plate, and as no enlargers existed, you had to shoot the form you wanted the final picture in (as everything was contact printed); later on 6x4.5; 6x6; 6x7; 6x9 6x12 & 6x17 where formalised, and are the standards today (with some 8x10", 4x10" and other formats existing, even if in special dry plate, or wet plate systems, custom cut to camera designs).

one tip, as the meter (rollei oem) is designed for 6x6 using 135 means the lens is only 75% coverage of the film, aka the 6x6 area!, so that is the reason for the light fall off, the meter assumes the light over the 36cm^2 area, and as its NOT, you are in effect using only 3/4 of this light, hence the 1 stop drop off in light on film; also, as its hand held work, you are not able to use 1/125 and slower (motion blur zone for MF cameras), so this limits the light drawn in, if you used a tripod / cable release, you should be able to use 1/60th and slower safely, NO motion blur, and hence gain a 2-3 stop increase in light {as you can open up to 2.8}, if this doesn't work, do like some do (Ilford phoenix) and rate the asa down, aka set it as less sensitive, put 100 for a 200asa film for eg. this will ensure you get the shadow details you didn't in this shoot.{Just tell the lab you did this, as they will have to alter dev. times, if you 'pull' they have to 'push' to ensure the film gets the desired density and exposure}.

good video, and thanks for the book recommendation, I have one for the Hasselblad V's I shoot, they are invaluable, technique as well as accessory finder/collector's resource.

I'd be interested in seeing how it develops.

The only shutter speed that you have to select before cocking the shutter is 1/500th. That’s true with a lot of folders with leaf shutters.

eBay ... you can find anything

Nice photos and thanks

You can buy converted pre-AI glass. At one point you could send the lens to the Nikon factory and they would convert it to AI. You can also get janky home conversions, but they seem to be viewed as inferior the factory ones

Nice video. I recently got an F3 for myself with a Waist Level finder and its an amazing camera. Just a note. You ateted thet you cant use Pre-AI lens on F3, but you can in fact. You need to flip up the AI tab (there is a small button that allows you to do that). Metering is via the stop-down method, that is to use the DOF preview button and see what the Meter gives you and using either M or A modes, adjust manually the exposure. Edit. I saw that you corrected a bit later that you can use PRE-AI. :D Note to self: See the video till the end :D

Nice setup but I’ll stick with my Canon P and Canon 50mm 1.4 lens

I was curious if you had any guidance on where I could get great videos to learn photography. I've had this camera for over 10 years actually and I started learning it but was still a beginner and lost a lot of my knowledge. I was hoping to hire someone maybe once a week to teach me but not sure where to even go for that. Any guidance you have is appreciated. Great video!

Nice analog vibes in this video!

Loveeee it, thank you. Do you remember the settings on those pictures?

I’m not sure if my camera works, I can’t see out of the window on top. How do I develop the film?

Thank you so much for this!!! I also take photos to help my anxiety. Thank you for helping me feel less alone! I just ordered a 500G up and can’t wait to try it! Love your channel and your photos! Super inspiring!!! 💙

Cool!

I've got 2 ME Supers and a MX, with a LX on the way.

Beautiful Photos!

Awesome Video. Thank you for sharing, Aly!

Thanks I just found the camera

You can use pre-ai lenses in stopped down metering mode