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Do you think the calibration board for hall effect sticks is still worth installing now that this calibration method is available? I understand they interfere a bit with how the controller goes back together

I have to know, does this works if the joystick have 1 backward magnet like the k-silver you bought before?

This is great people need to know they can do something about their controllers

Thank you very much. I’ve heard of the site, but wasn’t sure of it. Now that a reputable person has given it the go ahead, I’ll try it out.

I replaced the analogs months ago and couldn't calibrate them. This worked great! I have 8% errors, but it feels OK even in FPS games like Destiny 2.

Thank you very much! I followed your steps and changed very easily. Thank you very much once again.

Hi am I right in thinking don’t need to install pcb driver now when installing Hall effect

Thank you so much - I managed to replace both joysticks with hall effect ones, saved money and learned something new :)

Thanks for the video, this was my first time working on anything electronics related and my second try was a success!

I tried this for one of my controllers that has stick drift and everything seem to calibrate all right but the issue is it’ll be sitting at center and then just randomly jerk left at times or if you even barely touch it left it jerks all the way to the left. Or if you’re pushing straight up, it’ll jerk to the left as well. Is it just a bad joystick that needs to be replaced? Thank you!

What would cause the up/down motion on the stick not work? I got the new joystick in and when I tested it, I can move it left and right, but there’s no up down motion registering on the program. Thank you!

Can this fix strick drift??

I hope Sony don't protect the controllers with a firmware update, although that would be logical on their part. That would hit their controller sales hard.

THANK YOU! I just replaced my sticks on one controller and was looking to do Hall effects for the rest of my controllers this is going to help so much

dualsense edge not supporter :C

​ I heard that there might be a correlation between users experiencing stick drift with Hall effect joysticks and the controller's speaker (Dualsense specifically). I heard that this issue primarily affects K-Silver Hall sticks, but the yellow ones may also exhibit the same problem.

You are a champion and I hope every cup of coffee you drink in the future is perfect

amazing, very informative video, thank you, this fixed the right drift drift I was getting. Thank you so much

Thank you Sir for sharing and your detailed explanation! To anyone that can help make sure to support the creator of the tool! Also, I can confirm it fixed my light drift without having to replace the right stick. Wanted to give this a try before doing the replacement and to my surprise it did fix it! Not 100% but 95% of the drift its gone, also the range was massively improved, went from 13.1/13.8 to 5.3/7.3 🥳 Subbed!!

After calibration my stick got so stiff. Why? My aim is off after that. Anything to reset or go back to default please!

If the USB-C cable tends to disconnect with the controller depending how it’s positioned, would it be safer to just calibrate using Bluetooth pairing to PC?

Strange how every time I make a comment on your videos it gets deleted for no reason.

- It was helpful, Thank you Sir 👍🏻🔝💯'

Hello, I bought a new dualsense 5 controller, I pulled the analogs towards me, it seemed to work, I clicked back, now I hear a crackling sound when using the analogs. Help pls

The reason your stick was registering the opposite values is due to a recent quality control issue at K-Silver. I received a batch of 20 where the magnet had been installed incorrectly during manufacture. The magnet was reversed and this inverted left/right. It's fixable by removing the magnet, rotating it 180° and replacing it. Oops: i hadn't watched the whole video before posting this 😅

in FPS games the mechanical limit issue is very bad for aiming

What flux do you use ? Please

does it work with the ps4 controller

THANK YOU VERY MUCH, I F* LOVE YOU.

Thanks man I almost gave up searching for a solution for my stick drift.

this is awesome managed to get my average error to 3% on old controller i will definitely order some hall effects since i dont need to tinker with them physically just software thank you man

THANKSSSSSSSSSSS

Awesome! Just waiting for the new pump to arrive!

Really useful, thanks! Tried it on my controller with a newly replaced potentiometer; well centred with nice circularity after a "permanent" calibration. However, the settings were all over the place after a little while, drifting appeared again and the stick was not centred anymore. Done a few times but still the same problem. Then I performed a controller reset right after the calibration, things seem to hold up so far. Will see.

This is a game changer! Would like to see a future addition for calibration of the Scuf Envision Pro. Mine is drifting already.

You mentioned there was input delay difference between Hall Effect sticks and potentiometer sticks? Is that proven? I’m a purely competitive FPS gamer, so speed and accuracy is the most important to me.

Will this work if connected to a Mac? Mine only goes to centre if it snaps back itself , if I slowly let it go to centre it’s off by 2% which is annoying in games that have no dead zone like inFamous but perfectly fine in COD which has adjustments and a default dead zone.

This is a godsend! Thanks for sharing. Been waiting forever for something like this. Hopefully in the future the dev will be able to implement a wider range of controllers

will this work on dual sense edge

You are the men thanks alot just save 20€ for repair i raplace by my self analog but still get drift with this program i get circularity 5% which i better the new one from factory

Can this be used to calibrate hall effect joy sticks after installation

Can you completely fix the square circularity with the hall effects using this? And is the a delay with the hall effect using it ?

The algorithm decided I was not worthy to see this video when it dropped :( You are correct that TCB sets it's interrupt capture flag when the count reaches TOP, versus TCA which sets the flag upon rollover to zero (assuming up-counting and periodic interrupt mode). This makes the compare register computations differ by one between the two counter types. Even though TCA is overkill for simple PWM, I usually use it for that anyway primarily because of the double-buffering of the Period and Compare registers. This allows PWM updates without glitches or having to disable and re-enable the timer. I will often relegate TCB to a fixed task such as a 1 msec tick timer. When I have used TCB for variable PWM I will monitor the CAPT flag (either by polling, or via interrupt if sleeping) and perform any register updates immediately after the flag gets set. I'm really enjoying this series, mainly for seeing the new ATtiny series being programmed via MPLAB / MCC. I'm still using Atmel Studio 7 with the Atmel ICE and GCC, doing bare-metal register programming from the data sheet for my production work but I did get a Pickit 5 and have started playing with it in MPLAB. Keep up the great work!

So does the software add delay to the standard potentiometer joysticks or were you referring to using Hall effect joy sticks with this software? And being ok with the delay?

That's look awesome 😎 let's try 👌🏻

Finally!!! This is so sick

pretty nice

What web browser do you use, because I tried Firefox and it doesn't support

Just wanted to thank you for this amazing video! So well done. Simple, concise, to the point and just downright enjoyable to watch. What's even better is that my LG dishwasher is all good to go now after replacing the pump assembly. Just wanted to note for others with a similar problem I experienced with this same model: my issue had nothing to do with the noisy motor/bearings issue, I was getting the HE error code. Everything functioned and sounded fine, but my dishes were soaked, and the heat was not turning on. I figured I just needed to replace the heating element, but finally figured out (after numerous dead ends and hours of research) that this model has a combo pump motor/thermistor/heater and you can not just replace the heater. Purchased the combo assembly on Amazon and replaced it just like you showed, and now everything is good to go, no more HE error and dry dishes! Bummer on the replacement cost, but dishes are nice and dry again and now there is no need to replace the unit. Also wanted to note that I tried getting LG to replace on the 10 year motor warranty since it's a combo along with my issue (heater), but LG refused and wanted to charge $350+ w/ tax to send someone out. Anyways, thanks again for the amazing video!!

This is so good and thanks to the original dev and this video to let me calibrate 2 old enough controller back to usable state. (one of them still needs a stick replacement but at least the other one is working until I can get the hall effect replacements. )