Was relatively new in this controller reparation after soldering new joysticks and it was driving me crazy since I was still getting stick drift. you a life saver thank you very much!
@@pablonunez4397 Comparing to my normal new Dual Sense with my hall effect equipped Dual Sense at that time, after calibration, my character in game movement is the same between each other. No stuttering and the response when the joystick is moved and the character moving looks the same to me. The calibration really helps with the centering on my hall effect Dual Sense.
DUDE FINALLY. After more than a year of extreme stick drift due to new stick installation! I'm finally (for now) drift free... Just donated to that dude on paypal because what he's done for us is amazing.
@@QuicklyFreeze Yep. It was really difficult because i was new to it and i only had the soldering iron and the plastic suction tube and pretty much the bare minimum supplies. I recommend probably using a heat gun or something with suction built into it. I mean you could learn the hard way like I did, but it's really exhausting. Took me hours. I would probably be faster now but I was SO meticulous about the right amount of solder leftover on the contact point and whether it was too pointy after pulling away my iron. It was probably fine, but I was telling myself "just make it perfect, and you wont have to reopen it"
All right, now this is cool! I'm looking into preemptively replacing my DualSense sticks with a pair of Hall Effect sensing modules. I've done this with a Switch Lite and two pairs of Joycons, but Nintendo has calibration code built right into the system software, so it was perfectly easy. In the case of my DualSense, I don't know whether you can calibrate the sticks in the PS5 system software, but more importantly, I don't actually own a PS5. So, it's wonderful to see the community has stepped forward to make this happen.
I have a bdm-030, just replaced one of the potentiometers on the left stick and this calibration worked just fine, now it's actually better that it was at stock, thank you!
Thank you Sir for sharing and your detailed explanation! To anyone that can help make sure to support the creator of the tool! Also, I can confirm it fixed my light drift without having to replace the right stick. Wanted to give this a try before doing the replacement and to my surprise it did fix it! Not 100% but 95% of the drift its gone, also the range was massively improved, went from 13.1/13.8 to 5.3/7.3 🥳 Subbed!!
Thanks for the video !!! I was waiting patiently for software to fix the centering issue and circularity with hall-effect sticks - I can not wait to try this.
Thanks alot mate, I just got my DualSense repaired / it's joystick replaced and once I tested it, it still stick drift to the left, but I figured that the drift is more consistent than before (like before it's just going left like 100% even with the slightest touch) but this time it's just a off center and thanks to this, I can finally enjoy GTA 5 PvP again.
@@PapaGleb yeah, such a helpful program. Instead of having to buy a new controller or buy a bunch of sticks until I found the right one this guy's program saved my old controller. It's like perfect now
Thjx my friend and person who made this! This will save me alot of time. I just changed 4 sticks in less than an hour. (Including cleaning and everything)
I’m curious what’s the range you’d want to be with an error for the analog sticks? I’m sure of course getting down to 0% or 1% would be ideal but the chances of that are like nearly impossible I assume 😂
@@Drousy1870the Ideal range is actually around 5 to 7% as games don't want a perfect circle but more of a Circle square hybrid for better overall acceleration
This is a godsend! Thanks for sharing. Been waiting forever for something like this. Hopefully in the future the dev will be able to implement a wider range of controllers
You're a life saver dude, thanks to your video and the calibration tool, i saved 2 dual sense controller, Many thanks to you and the calibration tool developer!
This is so good and thanks to the original dev and this video to let me calibrate 2 old enough controller back to usable state. (one of them still needs a stick replacement but at least the other one is working until I can get the hall effect replacements. )
@@metalplasticelectronics354 have you seen a new blue sensor that started to show on aliexpress(claims to use the stock PS5 joystick/shaft part)? I was wondering if I should get new ones or still get the orange(black text or red board) ones.
I recently replaced the joysticks on my controller with Hall Effect sensors, but now I’m facing an issue. I tried calibrating the controller using this website, but it seems like the calibration doesn’t work at all-it has no effect. Before replacing the joysticks, I had no issues, and the controller could be calibrated just fine. Now, I think the website might not be working properly for me. Do you think the problem is with my joysticks, or could it be something else?
Try and redo the calibration again. There is no going back to the old values once the NVMEMORY has been updated. If that doesn't work, do a hardware reset on the controller and try again.
Quick question. I have a Battle Beaver (Dualshock 4), however I have the internal battery removed (only play wired on pc). Should this be a problem for the recalibration? Or does it get enough power whilst wired? (of course I won't unplug it during calibration)
Is the Battle Beaver a Sony DualShock4 or is it a second party? If it's a second party I doubt the Calibration site will recognize it. If it is recognized and will power up without the batter it will probably work. But if something were to fail on the USB VBus line it could brick the controller. It is just a matter of how much risk you want to take. I would put a batter in it, if just for the calibration.
this is awesome managed to get my average error to 3% on old controller i will definitely order some hall effects since i dont need to tinker with them physically just software thank you man
if you disconnect the battery or the dualsense runs out of battery, it will get back to stock calibration, so its better to leave the hall joystick close to the center then calibrate
My PS5 Scuff FPS was having some stick drift and the RH stick would randomly flick my aim straight up. I calibrated it and ran a few matches and it hasn't happened so far. I ordered some hall effect joysticks but if it works for now, I'll just use it as is. It's only a few months old. I might order some Gulikit TMR sticks later.
Will this work if connected to a Mac? Mine only goes to centre if it snaps back itself , if I slowly let it go to centre it’s off by 2% which is annoying in games that have no dead zone like inFamous but perfectly fine in COD which has adjustments and a default dead zone.
Thank you for this really helped me with my controller and gave me food for thought on changing to a hall effect joystick. What did you mean by mechanically centred ?
I heard that there might be a correlation between users experiencing stick drift with Hall effect joysticks and the controller's speaker (Dualsense specifically). I heard that this issue primarily affects K-Silver Hall sticks, but the yellow ones may also exhibit the same problem.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I'm not entirely sure myself. Hypr (those, custom controller guys) apparently removes the speaker because, the magnet apparently throws off the calibration. (Maybe it was due to the old pin pricking solution for the calibration)
Really useful, thanks! Tried it on my controller with a newly replaced potentiometer; well centred with nice circularity after a "permanent" calibration. However, the settings were all over the place after a little while, drifting appeared again and the stick was not centred anymore. Done a few times but still the same problem. Then I performed a controller reset right after the calibration, things seem to hold up so far. Will see.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 One axis only indeed, the one axis that has a replaced potentiometer. However, after a few more days of observation, the problem seems not related to the calibration. It was off centred again after a few days regardless of a reset or not. Problem seems related to the potentiometer itself. Replaced with another one and seems fine now.
So does the software add delay to the standard potentiometer joysticks or were you referring to using Hall effect joy sticks with this software? And being ok with the delay?
Yes, it will calibrate any DualSense or DualShock4 controller regardless of what kind of joystick it has. But the drift is the potentiometer wearing out so it will only be a temporary fix.
You could contact Scuf's customer support and tell them that you, as a customer, would like to see their controllers supported on the calibration website. It might not do anything but it couldn't hurt.
If I had a PS4 clone controller and I tried to calibrate it, it wouldn't even connect, right? I heard that on that dualshock-tools page they detected if the control was a clone
I tried soldering a new hall effect joystick but was a pretty bad job but now its constantly reading that its going upwards would you say i damaged the bored or could it be just the module thanks
It could be either, but if it's reading up, it's probably getting 0 volts on the line coming from the up/down sensor. Check the center pin of the up/down sensor, if you have a meter check the voltage on it. It should be close to 0 volts in the up position and close to 1.8 volts in the down position. The center should be close to 0.9 volts.
Another excellent video 👍 I had a go with the software this week and found it useful for correcting the off-centre joysticks that I had replaced. Just a couple of points to note: 1) the gamepad tester (and calibration software also?) will not work correctly in Firefox so I had to use Edge, and 2) fake controllers cannot be calibrated.
@@Dghbhytdrgbbrhrtrbhrthr-xt9zq A fake is a copy of a genuine Sony controller. They are designed to look identical, and are getting increasingly closer to becoming industinguishable from the real thing. The battery and circuit boards inside are obviously different from the genuine ones though. I have a fake Dualshock 4 which is spot-on apart from the silk screen lettering being wonky around the headphone socket. It works fine though, but after it has connected to my PS4 a notification pops up on-screen saying that it may not be a genuine controller. It still works though, until Sony decide to ban them. They cannot be calibrated because they do not contain the correct parts that a genuine controller uses and the firmware on the chips is probably non-standard too.
Hi, at the end you indicated that Hall effect sticks are slower than potentiometer sticks. I’ve tried to find resources to look more into this, but can’t find much. Can you please elaborate or make a video comparing the response times?
The Hall sensor IC has a Hall effect sensor some amplifiers and in the case of the Ginful, some filtering. That all adds a bit of delay. The only delay for the potentiometers is how much capacitance is on the center tap.
So if we change the analogue module again after the permanent calibration would we be able to do it again or it will be impossible to re write non volatile memory?
Do you think the calibration board for hall effect sticks is still worth installing now that this calibration method is available? I understand they interfere a bit with how the controller goes back together
It's up to you if you want to spend more money. I would try without them first and use the free tool instead. And if you feel like the calibration board is still needed then buy it and try.
I have a question. I installed a hall effect joystick for the right side of the controller and the website worked like a charm centering it. The issue comes with the circularity calibration. The website seemed to work only for the 1st and 4th quadrants but not for the 2nd and 3rd. Before assembling the controller, I centered the joystick manually on the x-axis and a little bit on the y-axis using a sim card pin. Could this have been the issue?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Well, I used the sim card pin to insert it into some little holes that the joystick module has on the sides just to move the little magnet side to side until the dot was centered. Could that be considered voltage output?
No that would be you adjusting it to match the old joystick module. Voltage centering would be putting a meter on the sensor's center lead and adjusting it until it reads 0.900 volts. At about the 9:15 mark in this video is a controller that I had replaced the potentiometer joystick with a Hall effect joystick. It was before the calibration software was available and I manually centered the Hall effect joystick to match the original joystick. Circularity is not good for this Hall effect joystick because I moved the up-down axis so much to match the original joystick. You can do center calibration before putting the controller back together. But Circularity can only be done after the mainboard is reinstalled in the controller. I've noticed it is even slightly different after putting the controller completely back together.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks for the info it certainly made things easier, but I ended up making it work after taking apart the joystick module. I subbed and liked the video
Why does this awesome video have 1,2 t upvotes and 4,2 t downvotes? And how accurate is that like/dislike reading which the browser extension gives? Sheesh, it's now at 1,3 t up and 5,2 t down. And now it's at 1,4 t up and only 26 down. Nice.
@@Marmbo Haha they're not gonna fool me. I'm in the process of replacing drifting DualSense sticks to hall effects. I sure hope it'll go fine. Screw Sony and their Californian culture.
Hello sir. I recently switched my old sticks, because of the drift, and now... with the new ones i`ve bought from Temu, i can`t` get a value beyond 19 % in circularity test. Every time i do the test and after i calibrated it , the value is 19 % on left , and 20 % on the right. How can i calibrate them to be at least 10 %? Thank you.
The circularity is a function of how linear the joystick is. Mounted crooked in the controller can affect circularity. But if mounting correctly there isn't much that can be done. What kind of joystick does Temu sell?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 The name in the description was PS5 3D Analog Thumbstick Joystick. And they look the same as the original ones. Blue plastic on the bottom, and turquoise on the sides. I think this type of joysticks are everywhere. I don`t know how to adjust the potentiometers so it will make, nearly, a perfect circle. I will order a pare of hall effect, and replace them.
Then they probably have Alps stamped on the side of them. If you have a meter you can check the resistance of the potentiometer. The PS5 version should be a little over 2K ohms, the PS4 version will be 10K ohms. I've seen a few cases where sellers of the joystick will send the PS4 version instead of the PS5 version. That may be causing the circularity problem.
@@metalplasticelectronics354thanks for this comment. Sadly it’s my case that I found out after few hours of desoldering and soldering the new one using budget equipment and poor skills… 😒
I'll see what I can find. With the Hall sensors, I believe magnet placement and sensor output level will control most of that. So I'm not sure much can be done about it.
If the USB-C cable tends to disconnect with the controller depending how it’s positioned, would it be safer to just calibrate using Bluetooth pairing to PC?
I haven't tried Bluetooth so I don't know how well it works. But if the USB connector on the controller is going bad I think it would be risky to try and do a calibration. I would try a couple of temporary calibrations by way of Bluetooth and see how they go.
I tried this for one of my controllers that has stick drift and everything seem to calibrate all right but the issue is it’ll be sitting at center and then just randomly jerk left at times or if you even barely touch it left it jerks all the way to the left. Or if you’re pushing straight up, it’ll jerk to the left as well. Is it just a bad joystick that needs to be replaced? Thank you!
No, it can be permanently calibrated over and over again. Permanent is not a good description for the mode, Non-volatile memory write would be a better description.
I think you will have to use a Chrome-based browser. I tried it with Chrome and Brave. And I don't know if a phone-based browser will support WebHID. You may have to calibrate it on a PC.
man this is wracking my brain. both sticks are hall effects. the right is working fine with ~10% error but the left is sticking to the left side! I replaced and got both sticks working but was getting above 20%. When i put everything back together the left joystick went back to sticking to the left side! I do not understand what is going on...
If the axis is all the way left then most likely the output from the center lead of the sensor is at 0.0 volts. Or the trace is damaged going to the center lead. Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=F61tSu_KKCIUUCUH
my controller is detected while using usb, but it won't let me use calibrate stick center, i can just see all the buttons are grayed out and see my controller info. pls help
@@metalplasticelectronics354 oh well, it's just doesn't work, i even change USB C cables.. I might've try on different computers.. thanks for your time
What causes high error rates? Bad soldering? Faulty joystick modules? Because I bought 10 from eBay and all of them have high error rates whereas another I had from someone else came up with a error rate of 6%
@@metalplasticelectronics354No, it's a normal dualsense, it just has the change to the rear sticks, it's a sony scuf, the motherboard is a BDM-020 like your video with the pink joystick, I can't fix avarage off axis, all 2 analogue ones are off by about 21%, I did exactly what you do in the video but only the perfect centering worked, but I can't do the external angular part like you in your video, I don't understand what I'm doing wrong... I would really like to be able to do it. .. How can I do? You can help me? Thank you 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Yes, but that's not the problem, the problem is that it doesn't write the EPROM, when it records in the center, when I turn the analogues like you do in the video, 3 times to the left, 3 times to the right slowly, the same at the first pass at 1x slow speed, do not write anything in the EPROM, the card is original Sony, the analogues are 2.5 kohm identical with little drift without calibration, I managed to write the drift in the perfect center, but the circular part remains at: AVG ERROR approximately 21%, can't anything be done? A reset from that calibration site or whatever to see if it works? I've never done it before on that site, that site is new, I had seen it, but I didn't think it would really work, however the card and the analogues are fine, except that they come out off axis, the center it's fantastic, but I can't do the rotation... There's something wrong... I would like to know if it can be reset without risking it. A thousand thanks. 🙏🏻
There are some debug buttons at the bottom of the DualShock Calibration page. Check and see what the NVS status is when clicking on the NVS unlock and NVS lock buttons. The status should change. Also, try a hardware reset of the controller. Here are the instructions: www.playstation.com/en-us/support/hardware/troubleshoot-dualsense/ . I think the reset on the web page is a soft reset, but I am not sure about that. I would do the hardware reset and try the calibration again.
I did my initial testing with a DualShock V2. Yes, it can be rewritten a lot of times. I expect thousands of write cycles these days for the EEPROM memory in these controllers.
You mentioned there was input delay difference between Hall Effect sticks and potentiometer sticks? Is that proven? I’m a purely competitive FPS gamer, so speed and accuracy is the most important to me.
The Hall effect sensors are going to have some delay. I measured about 2 to 3 milliseconds on the K-Silver ones, a really small amount. I can't tell the difference between them and a regular potentiometer joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you for your response sir! Have you ever detected a delay with the ginful v3’s? They’re the yellow or orange and red hall effects
Not yet. I've gotten two kits from Amazon, and they both look like the same joysticks. Red PC board with black silkscreen. I just haven't had time to test them. I hope to find the time this weekend.
You are the men thanks alot just save 20€ for repair i raplace by my self analog but still get drift with this program i get circularity 5% which i better the new one from factory
every single dualsense owner needs to know about this first before replacing their joysticks or buying a new controller its unfair that the dualsense edge gets to have a drift calibration settings on the ps5 but not the regular dualsense
Was relatively new in this controller reparation after soldering new joysticks and it was driving me crazy since I was still getting stick drift. you a life saver thank you very much!
My dual sense is now calibrated! Now my hall effects dual sense is invincible! thank you!
how was the sensibility after the calibration?
@@pablonunez4397 Comparing to my normal new Dual Sense with my hall effect equipped Dual Sense at that time, after calibration, my character in game movement is the same between each other. No stuttering and the response when the joystick is moved and the character moving looks the same to me. The calibration really helps with the centering on my hall effect Dual Sense.
@kamarulbahari152 how exactly did u receive the calibration software thing? I paid for it but to my knowledge haven't received anything :(
@@markopolo7651 I assume is the method described in this video, you should try, I did It and got remarkable positve results
@@markopolo7651 I just follow the instruction in this video. The software is browser based so you didn't need to install anything and its free.
DUDE FINALLY. After more than a year of extreme stick drift due to new stick installation! I'm finally (for now) drift free...
Just donated to that dude on paypal because what he's done for us is amazing.
did you solder them yourself
@@QuicklyFreeze Yep. It was really difficult because i was new to it and i only had the soldering iron and the plastic suction tube and pretty much the bare minimum supplies.
I recommend probably using a heat gun or something with suction built into it. I mean you could learn the hard way like I did, but it's really exhausting.
Took me hours. I would probably be faster now but I was SO meticulous about the right amount of solder leftover on the contact point and whether it was too pointy after pulling away my iron.
It was probably fine, but I was telling myself "just make it perfect, and you wont have to reopen it"
@@rapidreaper I had to use a solder sucker, I think just using the wick braid would not have worked. Unless you're really good at it (im not) I guess?
@@rapidreaper good luck to you
All right, now this is cool! I'm looking into preemptively replacing my DualSense sticks with a pair of Hall Effect sensing modules. I've done this with a Switch Lite and two pairs of Joycons, but Nintendo has calibration code built right into the system software, so it was perfectly easy.
In the case of my DualSense, I don't know whether you can calibrate the sticks in the PS5 system software, but more importantly, I don't actually own a PS5. So, it's wonderful to see the community has stepped forward to make this happen.
I have a bdm-030, just replaced one of the potentiometers on the left stick and this calibration worked just fine, now it's actually better that it was at stock, thank you!
THANK YOU! I just replaced my sticks on one controller and was looking to do Hall effects for the rest of my controllers this is going to help so much
Right, im doing the same - save lot of time for calibration with that project.
Thank you very much. I’ve heard of the site, but wasn’t sure of it. Now that a reputable person has given it the go ahead, I’ll try it out.
Thank you Sir for sharing and your detailed explanation! To anyone that can help make sure to support the creator of the tool! Also, I can confirm it fixed my light drift without having to replace the right stick. Wanted to give this a try before doing the replacement and to my surprise it did fix it! Not 100% but 95% of the drift its gone, also the range was massively improved, went from 13.1/13.8 to 5.3/7.3 🥳 Subbed!!
Much appreciated!
Thanks for the video !!! I was waiting patiently for software to fix the centering issue and circularity with hall-effect sticks - I can not wait to try this.
How’s it been? Is it good?
Thanks alot mate, I just got my DualSense repaired / it's joystick replaced and once I tested it, it still stick drift to the left, but I figured that the drift is more consistent than before (like before it's just going left like 100% even with the slightest touch) but this time it's just a off center and thanks to this, I can finally enjoy GTA 5 PvP again.
Good to hear
Omg I can’t believe someone finally made this open source. So amazing.
Thank you so much for this! Fixed drifting issues for both my current and old controller, thank you.🙏
Glad it helped!
ok this is phenomenal without changing my analogs i calibrated and now its almost like a new one :) thx a million
Wow I’m still so amazed that this is available. Ty for making the video and letting me know. You have no idea how much time you saved me. Ty!
Glad it was helpful!
Same, I donated to the guy who made the program.
@@Rain1 Same.
@@PapaGleb yeah, such a helpful program. Instead of having to buy a new controller or buy a bunch of sticks until I found the right one this guy's program saved my old controller. It's like perfect now
Thjx my friend and person who made this! This will save me alot of time. I just changed 4 sticks in less than an hour. (Including cleaning and everything)
THANK U SO MUCH My left stick was like straight up not working in certain menus and this fixed it
I replaced the analogs months ago and couldn't calibrate them. This worked great! I have 8% errors, but it feels OK even in FPS games like Destiny 2.
Excellent!
I’m curious what’s the range you’d want to be with an error for the analog sticks? I’m sure of course getting down to 0% or 1% would be ideal but the chances of that are like nearly impossible I assume 😂
@@Drousy1870 Doesn't really matter. As long as it feels good in game that is good enough.
@@Drousy1870the Ideal range is actually around 5 to 7% as games don't want a perfect circle but more of a Circle square hybrid for better overall acceleration
@@huemungus5535 ahh, ok. Thanks.
This calibration tool is a God send
good video bro explaining everything to help other people fix their controllers, not going to the landfill
This is the most amazing DIY and fix I have ever stumbled upon this year! Thank you heaps, man!
Great to hear!
amazing, very informative video, thank you, this fixed the right drift drift I was getting. Thank you so much
Glad it helped
My dualsense is working now much better with the calibration BIG UPS BRO
Clearly I found your channel at the exact right time!! ❤
To anyone that can help make sure to support the creator of the tool! This is amazing!!!!
Worked perfect for fixing my PS5 left stick drifting to the left randomly. Just replaced the potentiometer part (the entire green piece). Thanks!
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment.
This is a godsend! Thanks for sharing. Been waiting forever for something like this. Hopefully in the future the dev will be able to implement a wider range of controllers
You're a life saver dude, thanks to your video and the calibration tool, i saved 2 dual sense controller, Many thanks to you and the calibration tool developer!
Great to hear!
This is a game changer! Would like to see a future addition for calibration of the Scuf Envision Pro. Mine is drifting already.
This is so good and thanks to the original dev and this video to let me calibrate 2 old enough controller back to usable state. (one of them still needs a stick replacement but at least the other one is working until I can get the hall effect replacements. )
Great to hear!
@@metalplasticelectronics354 have you seen a new blue sensor that started to show on aliexpress(claims to use the stock PS5 joystick/shaft part)? I was wondering if I should get new ones or still get the orange(black text or red board) ones.
Finally something to calibrate analogs. I will try this for sure, thanks.
I recently replaced the joysticks on my controller with Hall Effect sensors, but now I’m facing an issue. I tried calibrating the controller using this website, but it seems like the calibration doesn’t work at all-it has no effect.
Before replacing the joysticks, I had no issues, and the controller could be calibrated just fine. Now, I think the website might not be working properly for me.
Do you think the problem is with my joysticks, or could it be something else?
I could kiss the guy who made this tool! I read that they are trying to get it to work for xbox controllers also, and that would be amazing!
Yes, it is wonderful that he made it open for everyone.
thanks for sharing, my dual sense works like it should now
Good to hear
Calibrated my launch model bdm-010 which had around 8.6 error rate no drift to around 5
How do I put the settings on default again?
My right stick won’t go to the left anymore.
Can anyone help?
Try and redo the calibration again. There is no going back to the old values once the NVMEMORY has been updated. If that doesn't work, do a hardware reset on the controller and try again.
Quick question. I have a Battle Beaver (Dualshock 4), however I have the internal battery removed (only play wired on pc). Should this be a problem for the recalibration? Or does it get enough power whilst wired? (of course I won't unplug it during calibration)
Is the Battle Beaver a Sony DualShock4 or is it a second party? If it's a second party I doubt the Calibration site will recognize it. If it is recognized and will power up without the batter it will probably work. But if something were to fail on the USB VBus line it could brick the controller. It is just a matter of how much risk you want to take. I would put a batter in it, if just for the calibration.
this is awesome managed to get my average error to 3% on old controller
i will definitely order some hall effects since i dont need to tinker with them physically just software thank you man
if you disconnect the battery or the dualsense runs out of battery, it will get back to stock calibration, so its better to leave the hall joystick close to the center then calibrate
@@Heatlink1 no it doesn't for me its stays u have to activate the permanent write option i dont know if u even watched the video my guy ?
Thanks man I almost gave up searching for a solution for my stick drift.
YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE ANALOG STICK FIRST
True, it's not going to make miracles happen with a worn out potentiometer joystick.
My PS5 Scuff FPS was having some stick drift and the RH stick would randomly flick my aim straight up. I calibrated it and ran a few matches and it hasn't happened so far. I ordered some hall effect joysticks but if it works for now, I'll just use it as is. It's only a few months old. I might order some Gulikit TMR sticks later.
Thank you for this!
Will this work if connected to a Mac? Mine only goes to centre if it snaps back itself , if I slowly let it go to centre it’s off by 2% which is annoying in games that have no dead zone like inFamous but perfectly fine in COD which has adjustments and a default dead zone.
Thank you for this really helped me with my controller and gave me food for thought on changing to a hall effect joystick. What did you mean by mechanically centred ?
Before the calibration software would have to mechanically deform the shaft to center the joystick.
Anything like this for Xbox controllers? Can see the issue issue coming back overtime but at least you can get a few months or so out of it. Amazing
I heard that there might be a correlation between users experiencing stick drift with Hall effect joysticks and the controller's speaker (Dualsense specifically). I heard that this issue primarily affects K-Silver Hall sticks, but the yellow ones may also exhibit the same problem.
I don't see how. It takes a pretty good magnetic field to affect the output of the sensor.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I'm not entirely sure myself. Hypr (those, custom controller guys) apparently removes the speaker because, the magnet apparently throws off the calibration. (Maybe it was due to the old pin pricking solution for the calibration)
this works for me thank you man!
Really useful, thanks! Tried it on my controller with a newly replaced potentiometer; well centred with nice circularity after a "permanent" calibration. However, the settings were all over the place after a little while, drifting appeared again and the stick was not centred anymore. Done a few times but still the same problem. Then I performed a controller reset right after the calibration, things seem to hold up so far. Will see.
Is it just one axis that is acting up? It does sound like a strange problem.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 One axis only indeed, the one axis that has a replaced potentiometer. However, after a few more days of observation, the problem seems not related to the calibration. It was off centred again after a few days regardless of a reset or not. Problem seems related to the potentiometer itself. Replaced with another one and seems fine now.
@@latenightgamer-gn4ds if it continues to happen, it could be the thumbstick's internal spring.
Great content. Thanks for sharing ❤
Thanks for the comment.
So does the software add delay to the standard potentiometer joysticks or were you referring to using Hall effect joy sticks with this software? And being ok with the delay?
I was referring to the Hall effect joysticks; they will always have more delay than the potentiometers.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks for clarifying 👍
Thank you!
could you use this to calibrate a regular controller (potentiometer) to reduce stick drift or completely take it away???
Yes, it will calibrate any DualSense or DualShock4 controller regardless of what kind of joystick it has. But the drift is the potentiometer wearing out so it will only be a temporary fix.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks
Hello, I have PS5 scuf reflex fps, how can I adjust the calibration setting?
You could contact Scuf's customer support and tell them that you, as a customer, would like to see their controllers supported on the calibration website. It might not do anything but it couldn't hurt.
This is only works with dualsense controller? Xbox Game pad?
When I try to use it, I get an error that says "The device appears to be a DS4 clone. All functionalities are disabled." any ideas why this might be?
If I had a PS4 clone controller and I tried to calibrate it, it wouldn't even connect, right? I heard that on that dualshock-tools page they detected if the control was a clone
That is my understanding, I don't have a clone controller even to try though.
Finally!!! This is so sick
Is this calibration only for Hall stick replacements or will it work with the standard analog sticks?
Works with any joystick.
I tried soldering a new hall effect joystick but was a pretty bad job but now its constantly reading that its going upwards would you say i damaged the bored or could it be just the module thanks
It could be either, but if it's reading up, it's probably getting 0 volts on the line coming from the up/down sensor. Check the center pin of the up/down sensor, if you have a meter check the voltage on it. It should be close to 0 volts in the up position and close to 1.8 volts in the down position. The center should be close to 0.9 volts.
Another excellent video 👍 I had a go with the software this week and found it useful for correcting the off-centre joysticks that I had replaced. Just a couple of points to note: 1) the gamepad tester (and calibration software also?) will not work correctly in Firefox so I had to use Edge, and 2) fake controllers cannot be calibrated.
Great tip!
Yeah the site says to use a chrome based browser. Edge is a version of Chrome.
What’s a fake controller
@@Dghbhytdrgbbrhrtrbhrthr-xt9zq A fake is a copy of a genuine Sony controller. They are designed to look identical, and are getting increasingly closer to becoming industinguishable from the real thing.
The battery and circuit boards inside are obviously different from the genuine ones though. I have a fake Dualshock 4 which is spot-on apart from the silk screen lettering being wonky around the headphone socket. It works fine though, but after it has connected to my PS4 a notification pops up on-screen saying that it may not be a genuine controller. It still works though, until Sony decide to ban them.
They cannot be calibrated because they do not contain the correct parts that a genuine controller uses and the firmware on the chips is probably non-standard too.
This is great people need to know they can do something about their controllers
Hi, at the end you indicated that Hall effect sticks are slower than potentiometer sticks. I’ve tried to find resources to look more into this, but can’t find much.
Can you please elaborate or make a video comparing the response times?
The Hall sensor IC has a Hall effect sensor some amplifiers and in the case of the Ginful, some filtering. That all adds a bit of delay. The only delay for the potentiometers is how much capacitance is on the center tap.
So if we change the analogue module again after the permanent calibration would we be able to do it again or it will be impossible to re write non volatile memory?
Can do it over and over again. DualSense is made for a lot of software updates. I would expect the non-volatile memory to last thousands of writes.
Do you think the calibration board for hall effect sticks is still worth installing now that this calibration method is available? I understand they interfere a bit with how the controller goes back together
It's up to you if you want to spend more money. I would try without them first and use the free tool instead. And if you feel like the calibration board is still needed then buy it and try.
No need for a calibration board with this software.
I have a question. I installed a hall effect joystick for the right side of the controller and the website worked like a charm centering it. The issue comes with the circularity calibration. The website seemed to work only for the 1st and 4th quadrants but not for the 2nd and 3rd. Before assembling the controller, I centered the joystick manually on the x-axis and a little bit on the y-axis using a sim card pin. Could this have been the issue?
Did you manually center it by voltage output or center it to match the replaced joystick? If the latter then that could be a problem.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Well, I used the sim card pin to insert it into some little holes that the joystick module has on the sides just to move the little magnet side to side until the dot was centered. Could that be considered voltage output?
No that would be you adjusting it to match the old joystick module. Voltage centering would be putting a meter on the sensor's center lead and adjusting it until it reads 0.900 volts. At about the 9:15 mark in this video is a controller that I had replaced the potentiometer joystick with a Hall effect joystick. It was before the calibration software was available and I manually centered the Hall effect joystick to match the original joystick. Circularity is not good for this Hall effect joystick because I moved the up-down axis so much to match the original joystick. You can do center calibration before putting the controller back together. But Circularity can only be done after the mainboard is reinstalled in the controller. I've noticed it is even slightly different after putting the controller completely back together.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks for the info it certainly made things easier, but I ended up making it work after taking apart the joystick module. I subbed and liked the video
Thanks
Why does this awesome video have 1,2 t upvotes and 4,2 t downvotes?
And how accurate is that like/dislike reading which the browser extension gives?
Sheesh, it's now at 1,3 t up and 5,2 t down.
And now it's at 1,4 t up and only 26 down. Nice.
Not accurate at all.
Sony sending their bots to downvote so you buy a whole new controller instead.
@@Marmbo Haha they're not gonna fool me. I'm in the process of replacing drifting DualSense sticks to hall effects. I sure hope it'll go fine. Screw Sony and their Californian culture.
Hello sir. I recently switched my old sticks, because of the drift, and now... with the new ones i`ve bought from Temu, i can`t` get a value beyond 19 % in circularity test. Every time i do the test and after i calibrated it , the value is 19 % on left , and 20 % on the right. How can i calibrate them to be at least 10 %? Thank you.
The circularity is a function of how linear the joystick is. Mounted crooked in the controller can affect circularity. But if mounting correctly there isn't much that can be done. What kind of joystick does Temu sell?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 The name in the description was PS5 3D Analog Thumbstick Joystick. And they look the same as the original ones. Blue plastic on the bottom, and turquoise on the sides. I think this type of joysticks are everywhere. I don`t know how to adjust the potentiometers so it will make, nearly, a perfect circle. I will order a pare of hall effect, and replace them.
Then they probably have Alps stamped on the side of them. If you have a meter you can check the resistance of the potentiometer. The PS5 version should be a little over 2K ohms, the PS4 version will be 10K ohms. I've seen a few cases where sellers of the joystick will send the PS4 version instead of the PS5 version. That may be causing the circularity problem.
@@metalplasticelectronics354thanks for this comment. Sadly it’s my case that I found out after few hours of desoldering and soldering the new one using budget equipment and poor skills… 😒
Dualsense Edge is not yet supported. Hopefully soon, as I had to install my own potentiometers because Sony never has any stick modules in stock.
I have to know, does this works if the joystick have 1 backward magnet like the k-silver you bought before?
The magnet will have to be rotated. else the left and right will be reversed.
I paid for the calibration link and haven't received anything? Im not sure what to do
There is nothing to receive, you can calibrate the joystick from the website. The "support this site" is to support the creator of the software.
Thank you so much for the vid man, got a sub!!
Thanks for the sub.
you are so smart man
Please make a video on how to fix circularity after replacing with Hall effect joysticks if it cannot be fixed through software.
I'll see what I can find. With the Hall sensors, I believe magnet placement and sensor output level will control most of that. So I'm not sure much can be done about it.
If the USB-C cable tends to disconnect with the controller depending how it’s positioned, would it be safer to just calibrate using Bluetooth pairing to PC?
I haven't tried Bluetooth so I don't know how well it works. But if the USB connector on the controller is going bad I think it would be risky to try and do a calibration. I would try a couple of temporary calibrations by way of Bluetooth and see how they go.
I tried this for one of my controllers that has stick drift and everything seem to calibrate all right but the issue is it’ll be sitting at center and then just randomly jerk left at times or if you even barely touch it left it jerks all the way to the left. Or if you’re pushing straight up, it’ll jerk to the left as well. Is it just a bad joystick that needs to be replaced? Thank you!
Sounds like a bad joystick, or really the potentiometer on the joystick is going bad.
Is it possible to recalibrate without replacing the analogues? The centering of my left analogue stick dualsense controller is off quite abit.
It might help for a bit. Maybe extend the life of the controller.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok. Thanks. I Will try it.
If i do a permanent calibration, and after a while i need to change potentiometer or whole analog, will it be any problem afterward?
No, it can be permanently calibrated over and over again. Permanent is not a good description for the mode, Non-volatile memory write would be a better description.
Does this work to fix drift in old sticks? Like my 2 years ol dualsense started drifting from the right stick last night, will this help deal with it?
It might help for a temporary fix but the drift is caused by the potentiometer wearing out.
I can’t open the link tho.. it says my browser doesn’t support WebHID.. is it because I’m om my phone?
I think you will have to use a Chrome-based browser. I tried it with Chrome and Brave. And I don't know if a phone-based browser will support WebHID. You may have to calibrate it on a PC.
I always use Firefox on my PC's and phones, and it's not supported. Had to fire up the awful MS Edge to test these out.
man this is wracking my brain. both sticks are hall effects. the right is working fine with ~10% error but the left is sticking to the left side! I replaced and got both sticks working but was getting above 20%. When i put everything back together the left joystick went back to sticking to the left side! I do not understand what is going on...
If the axis is all the way left then most likely the output from the center lead of the sensor is at 0.0 volts. Or the trace is damaged going to the center lead. Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=F61tSu_KKCIUUCUH
Does this only work with DualSense controllers only?
DualSense and DualShock 4
Does the calibration software stop stick drift or at least make the problem less frequent?
Stick drift is caused by the potentiometers wearing out. The calibration might correct it for a while, but it would only be temporary.
my controller is detected while using usb, but it won't let me use calibrate stick center, i can just see all the buttons are grayed out and see my controller info. pls help
What board model is the controller? Try a hardware reset on the controller.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 it's BDM-030, i also tried to reset it, but still won't work. thanks for you reply
That is strange. I've never looked but if there is a way to force the PS5 to update the controller's firmware, would be worth a try.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 oh well, it's just doesn't work, i even change USB C cables.. I might've try on different computers.. thanks for your time
Can you completely fix the square circularity with the hall effects using this? And is the a delay with the hall effect using it ?
I think so, as long as the Hall effect magnet has not been moved too far off center.
Hall effect sensors do tend to have issues with circularity, (8-15%) but hardly noticeable in any game.
What causes high error rates? Bad soldering? Faulty joystick modules? Because I bought 10 from eBay and all of them have high error rates whereas another I had from someone else came up with a error rate of 6%
If you are talking about circularity error, the joystick potentiometer or Hall sensor causes the error.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Yes the circularity error because when I received the items some of the pins were bent had to unbend them and then solder
Thank you, very useful, but i think my controller is beyond a recalibration fix.
Time to replace the joysticks?
- It was helpful, Thank you Sir 👍🏻🔝💯'
Glad to hear that
Does this only work when the controller is plugged into pc or does the fix save and it will work on the console too?
It can save it so it works with the console.
thank you very much.
You are welcome!
Hi, I managed to center my scuf reflex BDM-020 perfectly, but I can't fix the circular part, which is over 21% wrong... How can I do it? Help 🙏🏻
Is that a mod kit for the DualSense? And if so what kind of joysticks does it come with?
@@metalplasticelectronics354No, it's a normal dualsense, it just has the change to the rear sticks, it's a sony scuf, the motherboard is a BDM-020 like your video with the pink joystick, I can't fix avarage off axis, all 2 analogue ones are off by about 21%, I did exactly what you do in the video but only the perfect centering worked, but I can't do the external angular part like you in your video, I don't understand what I'm doing wrong... I would really like to be able to do it. .. How can I do? You can help me? Thank you 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Does it have the original joysticks still? If so, is something pushing the motherboard out of the position it's supposed to be in?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Yes, but that's not the problem, the problem is that it doesn't write the EPROM, when it records in the center, when I turn the analogues like you do in the video, 3 times to the left, 3 times to the right slowly, the same at the first pass at 1x slow speed, do not write anything in the EPROM, the card is original Sony, the analogues are 2.5 kohm identical with little drift without calibration, I managed to write the drift in the perfect center, but the circular part remains at: AVG ERROR approximately 21%, can't anything be done? A reset from that calibration site or whatever to see if it works? I've never done it before on that site, that site is new, I had seen it, but I didn't think it would really work, however the card and the analogues are fine, except that they come out off axis, the center it's fantastic, but I can't do the rotation... There's something wrong... I would like to know if it can be reset without risking it. A thousand thanks. 🙏🏻
There are some debug buttons at the bottom of the DualShock Calibration page. Check and see what the NVS status is when clicking on the NVS unlock and NVS lock buttons. The status should change. Also, try a hardware reset of the controller. Here are the instructions: www.playstation.com/en-us/support/hardware/troubleshoot-dualsense/ . I think the reset on the web page is a soft reset, but I am not sure about that. I would do the hardware reset and try the calibration again.
does this work instead of the driver boards that allow manual calibration?
Yes.
Work with dualsense edge with hall effect sticks?
No, not at the moment.
Can it also be done with the DualShock 4? If you make a mistake, can you rewrite it? Thank you
I did my initial testing with a DualShock V2. Yes, it can be rewritten a lot of times. I expect thousands of write cycles these days for the EEPROM memory in these controllers.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thx 👍🏻
You mentioned there was input delay difference between Hall Effect sticks and potentiometer sticks? Is that proven? I’m a purely competitive FPS gamer, so speed and accuracy is the most important to me.
The Hall effect sensors are going to have some delay. I measured about 2 to 3 milliseconds on the K-Silver ones, a really small amount. I can't tell the difference between them and a regular potentiometer joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you for your response sir! Have you ever detected a delay with the ginful v3’s? They’re the yellow or orange and red hall effects
Not yet. I've gotten two kits from Amazon, and they both look like the same joysticks. Red PC board with black silkscreen. I just haven't had time to test them. I hope to find the time this weekend.
You are the men thanks alot just save 20€ for repair i raplace by my self analog but still get drift with this program i get circularity 5% which i better the new one from factory
every single dualsense owner needs to know about this first before replacing their joysticks or buying a new controller
its unfair that the dualsense edge gets to have a drift calibration settings on the ps5 but not the regular dualsense
It's like big companies don't like their customers.
Great video helpful really
Glad it helped
Does the calibration remain after a controller update from Sony?
It should but I haven't tested that.
That's look awesome 😎 let's try 👌🏻
Would this work with the dualsense edge controller
Not yet.
Thanks
@metalplasticelectronics354 is there anything that can do this with an xbox controller?
I don't know.