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Just how many propane tank explosions do YOU see on the news each night?

Sure, I bought it on eBay at www.ebay.com/itm/193214699341?var=493406067924. They have their own website, but it looks like they specialize in propane conversion kits for engines, so it's not easy to find this there. www.nashfuel.com/

Talk to the people selling the parts. As far as points of failure, yes, their are lots of connections, but none of those are ever likely to fail. The hose and valve end are the weak links that could eventually fail. Also, it would have had fewer connections if I didn't want the quick release to be able to keep the hose out of the weather.

@ I was just giving my thoughts since this is what I do for a living, you only need six fittings from the tank to the hose end nozzle and you would still have a disconnect at the tank to remove the hose

No doubt! 😀 My Dad had one of these on his tank for 40+ years without an issue. When we finally built out on our land and had to add a couple of 1000 gallon tanks, it only made sense to take advantage of that. Thanks for the support!

You're quite welcome. Hope it helped.

Gas as in fuel; in this case propane. But I'm sure you always say you're filling your car with petroleum gasoline and never "gas".

No that’s not how this works at all, once the main valve is closed all flow will immediately stop, propane stays in a liquid state when captured so the propane in the black hose would just sit there not flowing in either direction until a valve is reopened on the side with higher pressure or until the bleeder valve is opened to dump the excess pressure

No, but I checked with the local supplier I was using to make sure there wouldn't be any problem with state regulations, etc. before I ordered the kit. They told me no, and would have sold and installed a kit for me if I wanted.

@@lordbeowulf1885 awesome Thank you for your reply

Actually I used to regularly work with liquid nitrogen which is considerably colder (-320 F vs -44 F) but also much less dense, so less thermal mass and it evaporates quicker creating a vapor barrier. Like everything, it's the amount of exposure that matters. There are always accidents, so wearing gloves, like wearing a helmet on a motorcycle, are a good idea.

Sure. You can order it at the following link. blog.orionranchobservatory.com/product/komatsu-d20p-6a-clutch-replacement-spline/ However, if you haven't ordered your clutch, Darin at DM Machinery is supplying them on a "loaner" basis with his clutch plates.

Hi @BRay.549, No, I didn't have any problems with it once I got it assembled. My recollection was that the biggest difficulty was getting the first section through the back panel. It tilts down intentionally, so the holes are already misaligned, but the expansion foam used to fill and insulate the shell makes for additional distortion. I used the one tube shown here. th-cam.com/video/DHzTdkvCcs4/w-d-xo.html. Thanks, Beo

Good luck with it. After almost two years with the range, I have to say that we love it and haven't had any complaints since they got the burners adjusted right. I've never managed to get the smart features working, but it obviously hasn't been an issue where we're missing the features. Kind of like our Moen smart faucet that we're quite happy with, but never tell Alexa to do anything with! =)

Yeah, at this point it's looking like I'll have to get someone else out to finish/fix all the stuff A&S never did or did wrong, and let the lawyers deal with A&S.

I've generally had good luck with it and had good results. The AI stuff is still pretty much worthless for detecting failed prints and instead it will occasionally cause problems when there's nothing on the bed. I've also had a few occasions where the filament has broken between the extruder and runout sensor (as well as where I've forgotten to clamp the extruder) and the AI will happily let the printer print air for hours without detecting there's a problem. At the other end, I had one crash of the firmware that upon rebooting must have left things in a non-ideal state because it gouged the front corner and side of the bed dragging the head through it before I quickly powered it off again. Beyond that, I've been pleased with the results and the speed for the most part.

@@lordbeowulf1885 Appreciate your fast response, I heard the reason for the printer gouging was supposed to be fixed in a firmware update. Also I noticed fro m your video the two items you were missing with your toolkit was the grease and glue stick. I'm sorry you had to deal with all that in your unboxing. I probably would of returned it cause it did seem to look used.

@@OldandFatExploration Thanks for the info. I'll have to check if there's another firmware update. Matter Hackers did send me the updated extruder part @bosmak had mentioned, but I have yet to install it. Haven't really had any problems there. The one comment I'll give on the K2 plus is that I wouldn't spring for that until I knew a lot more about the approach to multi-filament support. I bought the K1 Max over the Bambu Lab X1-Carbon Combo, largely because of the bigger build volume, but also with the thought that I could add a Palette 3 for filament swapping. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, when I started researching the Palette, it wasn't very highly reviewed. Apparently, among other things, it's really noisy. So while it was on sale cheap at the time I was looking at it, I decided to pass. Maybe one day!

th-cam.com/video/JzdnUZReoLM/w-d-xo.html

Sorry to hear that. They were pretty responsive for me regarding the plastic fitting for the tank. Here's hoping you'll get a good response.

Yeah. I was looking at their design and hating it. Crimp connectors are terrible. Someone needs to come up with a parts list to DIY this

Then please don't bother listening or watching my video. Others find it helpful, so this was obviously for them and not for you. Feel free to find someone else's video to watch. Trolling responses like this are really worthless to anyone. Best of luck to you!

I agree with the author pretty weird response

Was about to leave the same comment. LOL... Some DIY projects require a litte research.

Thanks. I mention that white is not the correct tape at about one minute in. Yellow is double density tape, as is blue, although blue appears to be a proprietary material from Blue Monster. Not sure where I'd seen that was the correct tape, although technically it's equivalently better than white and the manufacturer advertises it for LPG and natural gas among other things. But you're correct that from a color code (not performance) standpoint, yellow tape, like yellow pipe, is easily recognizable by inspectors as a double density tape. Much of what I've read online still recommends the use of pipe dope as well to ensure no leaks. None of this means white CAN'T work, but it requires a lot more care (and more wraps, which is probably the biggest reason joints fail -- people get in a hurry) to ensure that you get a good seal, and inspectors may fail it because they can't ensure that a good job was done. Note that the one critical place that special tape is required is for oxygen lines, which require green (no petroleum) tape.

Blue monster tape is universal, can be used for lpg, or natural gas!

The tube is part of the tank and has a check valve assembly under that cap that opens when you install the external valve. There are typically two different fittings, one for liquid (this one) and one for gas. I've heard of people connecting to the wrong one and not being able to figure out why this doesn't work!

th-cam.com/video/q82BKnrk8vI/w-d-xo.html

Where are you located? Other locations may be better, but the Austin office was without a manager for almost a year and a half, until just recently (getting fired right around the time we moved into our new house). They were managing my project with people from San Antonio and Houston. They STILL haven't finished the project after over three years, and the new Austin manager has conveniently forgotten everything that the district manager promised to get completed last April!

@@lordbeowulf1885 southern nevada

Well, in Oatmeal, we're another 15 miles further out from Austin (and anywhere else) which I'm sure was another part of our problem. All their contractors probably didn't like the drive and didn't want to stick around long enough to make sure they did the job right. When's the last time you were in Liberty Hill? You probably wouldn't recognize it now. Still no HEB or Wal-Mart (unless you count the HEB over on Ronald Reagan, which I think is still a Leander address) but they're probably coming soon.

@@lordbeowulf1885 About 12 years ago. Did not recognize then. We had gone to Marble Falls for a Wheelers for the Wounded event at Hidden Falls

That's from the ozone generator (part of the sanitation system) but yes, I suspect that's part of the problem. The other part is the way they daisy-chained two of the valve manifolds. They work on a flow rate motor that rotates through positions based on the amount of water flowing through them, but there's no way to keep two synchronized. So, in series, the first one may switch flow to or away from the second one halfway through the cycle of the second one, so it never gets to full flow on either side of the period that it has water flowing to a given zone. They should have run them in parallel with a control switch to decide how long to run one set of zones vs. the other. Finally, given how much other stuff is messed up, I suspect some of the lines still have garbage in them and the whole system is partially clogged. A&S STILL hasn't fixed any of this and finished my pool after over three years!

@@lordbeowulf1885 One would think they would understand the physics. Who do they hire? People with ZERO experience in anything??

Propane is LPG and no we don’t use brass wrenches with any propane fittings

If I was trying to fill it to maximum, sure. However, given this was a test run and I was using that tank to burn off cactus and having to drag it around the pasture, I didn't want it full! th-cam.com/video/q2M0eUQvo_U/w-d-xo.html😁

@@lordbeowulf1885 Maybe I don't understand how this works but when I see liquid coming out of the bleeder valve I assume that means the tank is full, therefore leaving no space for expansion. please help me understand this. Thank you

th-cam.com/video/f1xQMOpHEfw/w-d-xo.html

@@wadebrinson8977 That bleeder valve he loosened at the small tank to release pressure and indicate when tank is full has a tube connected to it which sticks down in the tank (to the 80% full level) and when the level of the liquid rises up to the level of that tube it will spit liquid out indicating you are at proper full level.

Tanks with 3 star closing valve, has safety device where tanks can't be filled over 80%! That's why all tanks have to have that valve now!

I empty it every session, so that's definitely not the problem in my case. Beo

That fitting is an over pressure relief valve. The only place in this setup I see where it can go is on the outlet end of the big valve that connects to the large (source) propane tank. I will open if the pressure in the hose exceeds 400psi or 27.58bar.

@@chetbodley8629 ...Thank you Sir.

Glad you found it useful. Thanks for the comment!

Good luck with it. My main fight lately has been with the lousy grease drain they have and trying to keep it unclogged so that grease doesn't go everywhere else in the cabinet walls and start another grease fire! There's definitely a reason they say to preheat it!

@@lordbeowulf1885 yeah that grease trap gets clogged all the time with grease. I scrap the tray after every cook. I found the best way to clean that drain is I run a .45 cal bore brush down the hole after every cook while its still a little warm to keep it free of burned on grease its easiest if you remove the grease trap and hit it from the underside of the smoker

@@dnf8878 The problem with mine is that nothing can make the corner at the back of the tube. I have to attack it from both sides and even then I can't get everything out. I suspect they have two rectangular tubes, one from the bottom and the angled one from the tray and they're just butted up to each other. There's no curve to guide any sort of probe through, and the opening appears to only be a fraction of the cross section. I'm pretty sure that any grease that gets to that point has about a 50-50 chance of going down the tube vs. dripping out inside the chassis between the inner and outer walls, which is the source of my grease fires. If the lower tube gets clogged, it ALL goes out in the chassis! One of these days if I can get it REALLY clean, I might shove my borescope down there and see what's what!

@@lordbeowulf1885try removing the grease catch tray. Go under and find the empting hole. Get a skewer or something thin and strong to unclog it.

@@t0nyT That's what I was describing above. I have a piece of metal fish tape that lets me scrape the walls both top and bottom and then I flush everything repeatedly with hot water, but again, nothing I've tried makes that corner from top to bottom or bottom to top. Thus, the grease doesn't either! BTW, I don't use the stock grease tray since I would have no way of getting it out. I have a huge pan I put under there so I know I'll never overflow.

Thanks for the response. God bless us all! We need it!