Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Wasn't sure there'd be many people needing it, but you never know. I didn't think to start taking video until I had it disassembled, but figured better late than never!
Can you send me the file for your alignment tool, just got the same dozer from auction and the filter is full of material. I feel I'll be doing this sooner than later, awesome video
Great video man I found this looking for possibilities on why my clutch won't release. If I start it in gear it takes off and you have to kill the engine to stop.
Great video. Was looking to see what I would be getting myself into buying one I’m looking at right now. Seems everything is doable by the average guy with some skills. Thanks again. 👍
Excellent video, I have the very same model....got about one year without use and now the clutch pedal stuck solid, any pointers in what I should look or do as a starter? would be very much appreciated!
So stuck engaged or disengaged or what? By solid I'm guessing you mean like rusted up so nothing will move? Or is it that you press the pedal and nothing happens? For the former, I'd start by checking the linkages to determine if it's outside or inside the clutch housing. I could envision a number of scenarios from the spring rusted up to the throw-out bearing stuck, etc. Might be worth spraying down everything you can get to with WD-40 to try to loosen up any external rust. For the latter, and assuming the motor will run but nothing will move in gear, I'd say the clutch is shot and is slipping.
This weekend I tore apart the bell housing on a D20P 7 and this video was a great tool for me.. Thanks for the video. I still have to get the clutch assembly off but its a start. I would like to purchase the part you made for the spline. As Komatsu will not sell me one. How can i get in touch with you to make this transaction?? Thanks
Hi Brent, I posted the part on my website where I sell a few other 3D printed parts for telescopes. That was the easiest approach. You can find it at blog.orionranchobservatory.com/product/komatsu-d20p-6a-clutch-replacement-spline/. Thanks, Beo
Interesting and informative video. Similar to my D31p-17 but not alike, but helpful. My problem is my left track is weaker than my right track while pushing. Also, when braking, my left track struggles. I'm not sure where to start. Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you.
Hi Marcus, That sounds like a failing steering clutch or stuck/clogged hydraulics or linkage from the steering arm to the clutch. The clutch (on mine) is back behind the seat above the drive axle. Mine had the opposite problem when I bought it that I couldn't turn left because the clutch was frozen. Apparently water had gotten into it and rusted all the pads together. I had to open it up and buff everything off to get it working. Good luck! Beo
Hi Rodney, Yeah, I have made it available on my website at blog.orionranchobservatory.com/product/komatsu-d20p-6a-clutch-replacement-spline/. It may take me an extra day or two to get it printed and shipped these days, but it usually prints fine on the first shot.
Got on my D20-6 one morning and couldn't push in the clutch paddy, after using it a day or two before. Can get it in gear but will barely move have any suggestions. I have a hard time getting anyone to come out and work on it. The Komatsu dealer near me wants over 7k just for labor. Thanks,
Well, the cost for a dealer to work on it isn't a surprise, although the fact that they're willing to do so is! I'd start simple and attempt to trace the linkages from the pedal back to the clutch in the hopes that it's something simple. After my clutch replacement I had some problems with the linkages after it sat for a while, but spraying everything down with WD-40 and working it for a while cleared it right up. If it's not something simple then it's something hard and you'll have to decide where you go from there. Depending on the condition, the dozer's probably not worth much more than the $7k plus parts, so if you're not up to working on it yourself, you'll have to decide if the return on the investment is there to have someone else fix it. Good luck! Beo
By no power, are you saying you can't move in reverse but there's no load on the engine, or trying to move in reverse causes your engine to stall? The former sounds very much like what I experienced with my slipping clutch, while the latter would sound like a pretty major problem with the transmission or drive train.
By case, I'm assuming you're referring to the transmission case? Have you managed to separate the pieces at all, or is the housing stuck to the gasket? On the latter, beyond double and triple checking to be sure there's not still a bolt or fitting holding it, you'd probably want to get a knife in there and work your way in by carefully cutting through the gasket. If it's all loose and just hanging up on the spline, then the question is whether or not the clutch is sliding on the spline and just getting hung up on the chassis somewhere so that you don't have clearance, or is it frozen/rusted to the spline. In that case, exercising the throwout bearing/clutch lever to try to break it loose is about all I can suggest without getting rough with things! Unfortunately, there's no option here to add a photo, but you could probably post a link if you can post a photo somewhere else.
Actually, I'd always though if I was going to so anything it would probably be angle iron, but rebar would definitely be cheaper. Not sure how much it would gain me, but might be worth thinking about if I ever decide to do something.
You can buy the proper barstock to cut to length and weld to the grouser for repair. Many different profiles are available to match your particular application and it will have the correct hardness and wear resistance to last a long time, unlike rebar or mild steel.
I realize this video has some age to it but how much did it cost for all the parts to replace the clutch? Did you have NY problems finding the parts you needed?
I paid $475 on eBay to DM Machinery but looks like Summit Sales has it for $465 now. Beyond that it was a 5 gallon bucket of oil (about $85 if I recall) and a tube of silicone for the gasket.
@@lordbeowulf1885 Thank you very much for your reply. I just bought a D20P-7 at an auction and I believe it will need a clutch soon. There were 4 busted off bolts holding the right rear track to the bracket on the dozer. I just got them out today. Once I get the new bolts in I can check the clutch out.
You need to go to the gym or stop smoking. You are too out of breath for me to listen to. I used headphones so I can hear (partial hearing loss from operating) and all I hear is heavy breathing and not you talking. The breathing overrides the voice.
Then please don't bother listening or watching my video. Others find it helpful, so this was obviously for them and not for you. Feel free to find someone else's video to watch. Trolling responses like this are really worthless to anyone. Best of luck to you!
I have a D20P-7 with a bad engine. I'm in the process of pulling it now. I'll probably have to watch this video 5 more times!
Wow, you're going a step beyond me! Good luck with that. I'm sure others would like to hear how you make out.
outstanding video, i hope your dozer gives you a long and maintenance free (money maker when possible) life.Great Play by play also.
Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Wasn't sure there'd be many people needing it, but you never know. I didn't think to start taking video until I had it disassembled, but figured better late than never!
Great video very informational thank you for showing us the clutch.
Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Wish I'd done one when I repaired by steering clutch too, but there's another video online that helped me with mine.
Can you send me the file for your alignment tool, just got the same dozer from auction and the filter is full of material. I feel I'll be doing this sooner than later, awesome video
Great video man I found this looking for possibilities on why my clutch won't release. If I start it in gear it takes off and you have to kill the engine to stop.
Thanks. Hope you get it working!
Great video. Was looking to see what I would be getting myself into buying one I’m looking at right now. Seems everything is doable by the average guy with some skills. Thanks again. 👍
Excellent video, I have the very same model....got about one year without use and now the clutch pedal stuck solid, any pointers in what I should look or do as a starter? would be very much appreciated!
So stuck engaged or disengaged or what? By solid I'm guessing you mean like rusted up so nothing will move? Or is it that you press the pedal and nothing happens? For the former, I'd start by checking the linkages to determine if it's outside or inside the clutch housing. I could envision a number of scenarios from the spring rusted up to the throw-out bearing stuck, etc. Might be worth spraying down everything you can get to with WD-40 to try to loosen up any external rust. For the latter, and assuming the motor will run but nothing will move in gear, I'd say the clutch is shot and is slipping.
This weekend I tore apart the bell housing on a D20P 7 and this video was a great tool for me.. Thanks for the video. I still have to get the clutch assembly off but its a start. I would like to purchase the part you made for the spline. As Komatsu will not sell me one. How can i get in touch with you to make this transaction?? Thanks
Hi Brent,
I posted the part on my website where I sell a few other 3D printed parts for telescopes. That was the easiest approach. You can find it at blog.orionranchobservatory.com/product/komatsu-d20p-6a-clutch-replacement-spline/.
Thanks,
Beo
Interesting and informative video. Similar to my D31p-17 but not alike, but helpful. My problem is my left track is weaker than my right track while pushing. Also, when braking, my left track struggles. I'm not sure where to start. Any ideas would be helpful. Thank you.
Hi Marcus,
That sounds like a failing steering clutch or stuck/clogged hydraulics or linkage from the steering arm to the clutch. The clutch (on mine) is back behind the seat above the drive axle. Mine had the opposite problem when I bought it that I couldn't turn left because the clutch was frozen. Apparently water had gotten into it and rusted all the pads together. I had to open it up and buff everything off to get it working. Good luck!
Beo
@@lordbeowulf1885 thank you. That's a start. I've just been nursing it along but I'm ready to get it going properly. Thanks for your reply, Marcus.
I drive mine up on cross ties to get under and its the perfect height.
Great idea! Wish I had some. They seem to be harder to come by in Central Texas, but can't say I've gone looking lately.
Beo
I am about to replace the clutch in my D 20-7 is the clutch alignment tool that you made offer still stands to make one for me
Hi Rodney,
Yeah, I have made it available on my website at blog.orionranchobservatory.com/product/komatsu-d20p-6a-clutch-replacement-spline/. It may take me an extra day or two to get it printed and shipped these days, but it usually prints fine on the first shot.
OK I just ordered The spline alignment too thank you so much keep up the good work
Got on my D20-6 one morning and couldn't push in the clutch paddy, after using it a day or two before. Can get it in gear but will barely move have any suggestions. I have a hard time getting anyone to come out and work on it. The Komatsu dealer near me wants over 7k just for labor. Thanks,
Well, the cost for a dealer to work on it isn't a surprise, although the fact that they're willing to do so is! I'd start simple and attempt to trace the linkages from the pedal back to the clutch in the hopes that it's something simple. After my clutch replacement I had some problems with the linkages after it sat for a while, but spraying everything down with WD-40 and working it for a while cleared it right up. If it's not something simple then it's something hard and you'll have to decide where you go from there. Depending on the condition, the dozer's probably not worth much more than the $7k plus parts, so if you're not up to working on it yourself, you'll have to decide if the return on the investment is there to have someone else fix it.
Good luck!
Beo
I have a D20-sA5.
It doesnt have hardly any power in reverse. Is there a linkage or adjustment for the reverser.
By no power, are you saying you can't move in reverse but there's no load on the engine, or trying to move in reverse causes your engine to stall? The former sounds very much like what I experienced with my slipping clutch, while the latter would sound like a pretty major problem with the transmission or drive train.
Hey man I got it all tore apart all the bolts off but we can’t get the case to come off the spline any tips on how to do that
By case, I'm assuming you're referring to the transmission case? Have you managed to separate the pieces at all, or is the housing stuck to the gasket? On the latter, beyond double and triple checking to be sure there's not still a bolt or fitting holding it, you'd probably want to get a knife in there and work your way in by carefully cutting through the gasket. If it's all loose and just hanging up on the spline, then the question is whether or not the clutch is sliding on the spline and just getting hung up on the chassis somewhere so that you don't have clearance, or is it frozen/rusted to the spline. In that case, exercising the throwout bearing/clutch lever to try to break it loose is about all I can suggest without getting rough with things! Unfortunately, there's no option here to add a photo, but you could probably post a link if you can post a photo somewhere else.
I've seen where some people weld rebar to the pads for more traction. Have you thought about doing that?
Actually, I'd always though if I was going to so anything it would probably be angle iron, but rebar would definitely be cheaper. Not sure how much it would gain me, but might be worth thinking about if I ever decide to do something.
You can buy the proper barstock to cut to length and weld to the grouser for repair. Many different profiles are available to match your particular application and it will have the correct hardness and wear resistance to last a long time, unlike rebar or mild steel.
I realize this video has some age to it but how much did it cost for all the parts to replace the clutch? Did you have NY problems finding the parts you needed?
I paid $475 on eBay to DM Machinery but looks like Summit Sales has it for $465 now. Beyond that it was a 5 gallon bucket of oil (about $85 if I recall) and a tube of silicone for the gasket.
@@lordbeowulf1885 Thank you very much for your reply. I just bought a D20P-7 at an auction and I believe it will need a clutch soon. There were 4 busted off bolts holding the right rear track to the bracket on the dozer. I just got them out today. Once I get the new bolts in I can check the clutch out.
DIESEL OIL : 15 W - 40W SHELL ROT TEL OIL ONLY
Assuming this is in response to the 10W discussion, that's for the clutch, not the engine. Of course the engine runs 15W40.
how do i get that tool?
Hi Richard, I've made it available at blog.orionranchobservatory.com/product/komatsu-d20p-6a-clutch-replacement-spline/.
Thanks,
Beo
You need to go to the gym or stop smoking. You are too out of breath for me to listen to. I used headphones so I can hear (partial hearing loss from operating) and all I hear is heavy breathing and not you talking. The breathing overrides the voice.
Then please don't bother listening or watching my video. Others find it helpful, so this was obviously for them and not for you. Feel free to find someone else's video to watch. Trolling responses like this are really worthless to anyone. Best of luck to you!
I agree with the author pretty weird response