Welcome back! A couple of things to compare notes on! Interesting spool holder. I'm leaning towards a 608 bearing type like I have on my other printer (CR-10S) I like the rolls freely moving across the bearings and one less force of gravity acting on the filament feed. Filament out detectors...I don't use them. Too many false positives. I'm just old school and make sure I have enough to do the print 😀 As you might have seen on my videos, I tried to do a step-by-step process over several videos on getting this thing built. With the assembly manual being "OK" for most of the build, there were some areas that, as we previously discussed, needs enhancements. I went with a spring steel PEI coated bed, there was a group offering in the Facebook group (a great resource) I have had a great deal of difficulty going from build done to configuring, since there's little to no support in that regard at this time I used the 3D Maker Noob's "Calibrating Z-Offset With An Auto Bed Levelling Probe" video and that worked perfectly. I have found that the stock firmware has some things that need altered. The probe offsets are X 10 Y 10. If you measure you'll find it's more like X 5 Y 40. The encoder should be changed, the usable X and Y should checked (I can only go to 344 mm on my Y).... and a few other things (details if you desire) I'm hearing a high pitched sound from time to time...no idea what that is. I also get a chattering in one leadscrew randomly. Again...no idea? It's been quite an adventure. Tonight I'll see if I can piece together a Simplify3D profile!
Hi again. Not sure if I should call your Nerdy or Cool for short? =) Or just Where? (No, that sounds like the start of an Abbott and Costello routine!) Back when I got my original Robo just after they started their kick starter production, I looked a lot at different reel holders because the one that came originally wasn't very good. I'd debated going the bearing route, and while it would probably reduce some of the "clunks" of reels binding and releasing, I never really saw it as an absolute necessity. In some respects, I kind of feel like I failed if I need any additional parts to put together something I printed. Silly, I know, but there ya go! On the filament detectors, they were cheap and just something to play with. Of course depending on how the firmware handles them, I may not like them anyway. If it stops where it is and doesn't move the head off the part, it's pretty much ruined anyway. We'll see when I get around to hooking them up. Regarding the firmware settings, I was already expecting to have to fiddle with them beyond what was provided, but thanks for the heads up. On the whine, yes, I've experienced that and even captured some of it in one of my original test videos, although I don't recall now if I left it in or cut it out. I'm under the impression it's due to micro-stepping and we're hearing the chopper frequency from the control board as it attempts to drive the stepper partway between two poles using pulse-width modulation to create the intermediate voltage/current levels. I can't say I've ever heard anything like it one the Robo, and again it could be a firmware setting that could help resolve it. The chattering on the lead screw is likely some sort of binding with the linear bearings. Coincidentally, you might watch the video I posted recently where I tore into my Celestron telescope mount. It had a problem that I wouldn't be surprised if it's similar to what you're encountering. When the worm gear drives against gravity it's fine, but driving with gravity, the whole thing stutters as the screw moves away from the worm and then the worm falls under the weight of the mount and hits the screw again. The pseudo fix there was to adjust the tensioner to increase the engagement of the worm so that there was less of a gap to chatter, but you can't do that here. Beo
Hi, any new updates on this? I bought a T-Rex 3 at 700 mm tall, but that was a nasty printer even though supposedly fully assembled, and nearly 3 times the cost. So I am curious if you worked any of the issues out with this and got awesome prints?
I'm about ready to start testing my new dual extruder hot end, so I hope to post a new video in a week or so. Lots of other stuff to show too, but I still haven't actually printed anything useful on this yet. It's just been a project in between work and all my other projects! Beo
Well, put the testing on hold. I was working on leveling the bed after having fixed the bad countersinks and a problem with the heat pad (wait for the video, you'll be AMAZED at what I found!). I accidentally ran the Y axis into the far stop (not sure why the firmware didn't catch that) and the power supply dipped to zero and everything reset. Couldn't get the motors to home after that, and then I smelled the magic smoke. Turned out the X axis driver (the one that runs the two steppers in parallel) blew. I suspect it was just a load issue since I wasn't even moving that axis. It was just holding. The back EMF of the stalled Y axis probably pushed it over the edge though. So now I'm off to search for a new driver and see if they make higher power versions to handle that double motor setup... Beo
That is a great design... I just wasted 12 hours on a print because the filament got snagged when I was not looking. Are the STL's for the spool holder available anywhere out there?
Hi Amir, I haven't really had time to work with it much lately. I've done a few big prints with it that have turned out acceptable, but not phenomenal. There are still tweaks I want to try to see if I can improve it, but I really needed a tool, not another project! =) Regardless of what I do, I don't expect it to ever be much more than it is now, which is ok for the price, but nothing special. Given everything I went through though, I probably wouldn't do it again given everything I know now. I still haven't had time to put together the video of having to replace the drivers that blew for the dual stepper setup.
@@lordbeowulf1885 thanks a lot for taking the time to answer me , i was just wondering about the nozzel can you print PA carbon or PLA carbon? which needs 300 degrees. and the bed does it have a cover or just the aluminum ?
@@EnergySeeker I haven't tried printing carbon filament yet, although I have a PLA roll. I replaced with a better set of heaters, but haven't tested just how hot I can go. As far as the bed, it's just bare aluminum, but someone was selling a PEI magnetic build plate for it on Amazon, but I wasn't ready to drop a few hundred more bucks into this thing just yet. If I get it working well enough I might. Beo
Two things... One: can you leave a link where you bought that dual extruder from? Two:Have you tried the capricorn tubing trick? The same way it affected the CR-10 I think it may help this printer
Hi Kunal, Sure, the link is in another post here somewhere, but the part is still listed at www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Cyclops-and-Chimera-Extrusion-2-in-1-out-E3D-hotend-Multi-Color-Extruder-kit/32742705685.html. Just about to put it through its paces! Hope to upload a video with all my updates in another week or so. I just looked up the Capricorn PTFE tubing. I might have to give them a try if I'm still having problems after this. Sounds like they might address some of the potential slop in the Bowden, assuming the filament tolerance isn't a problem. Thanks for the pointer. Beo
@@lordbeowulf1885 thank you sooo much for the link and I an looking forward to the update video with the new dual extruder design you are using. I bought an FT-6 and hope it comes soon so I can take a crack at some of these issues =)
Very informative videos. Thanks for your work. Would you recommend the FT-6 to a 3d noob such as myself? My needs require a large print space and material would be 99% abs. The cost of this printer makes it very attractive
Hi Chad, Leaving the printer aside for the moment, your goal to work with ABS as a "noob" is a challenge in and of itself. Even after years of experience with 3D printing and learning the tricks involved, I still have mixed success with ABS, especially for large parts. Assuming that everything else is working perfectly, one of the highly recommended features for ABS printing is a heated enclosed print volume in addition to the heated bed. That does not exist on the FT-6 or pretty much any low end printer, although the frame construction does potentially lend itself to building a shroud for it to help create a controlled environment. Beyond that, I'd say you success with this will heavily depend on your technical skills. The fact that you want to do 3D printing is a first point in your favor there, but only you can judge your skills. If you've done a lot of electro-mechanical work in the past then you can probably get this kit going. If you have any doubts in that area, then you'd probably be better off with a more complete printer that only needs minor setup. Good luck! Beo
ABS starts to become problematic with prints larger than your fist. PETG seems to be the best for large prints because it doesn't warp. If you're determined to use ABS you will struggle to make use of more than the 200mm square that comes standard with any printer.
Thanks. I'm assuming you mean you're still looking for more input? I want to get back to working on this, but there's just so much going on right now. At least tax day is past! I may try to work on it sometime in the next week and a half, but my May is shot with stuff for work, so if I don't get something soon, it will be a while!
@@lordbeowulf1885 I'm interested in how things go for this printer as I always liked the size of it, and the dual-ness, ish. It's interesting to see how many problems it has and how you overcame them. One day I'm hoping to see a massive super detailed print from it :-)
Hi Chris, Good question, and I'm not sure I can answer that yet. I still believe that the printer hardware was generally a good value, and under the assumption that they've addressed most of the issues I reported, it should be fine for the price. My biggest concern is the actual quality of the test prints I've done and the amount of stringing that was occurring. Switching to the Matter Hacker software helped there, but didn't completely eliminate it. The result is still not as good as I get off my Robo 3D running the same software. So the real question for me is whether or not the new extruder hot end will change that, or if this is an inherent fault of the Bowden extruder or something else in the design that I can't fix. Regardless of all of the other issues, if I can't get good quality prints off of it then it's not a good printer. If I can, then I'll be happy with it.
Welcome back! A couple of things to compare notes on!
Interesting spool holder. I'm leaning towards a 608 bearing type like I have on my other printer (CR-10S) I like the rolls freely moving across the bearings and one less force of gravity acting on the filament feed.
Filament out detectors...I don't use them. Too many false positives. I'm just old school and make sure I have enough to do the print 😀
As you might have seen on my videos, I tried to do a step-by-step process over several videos on getting this thing built. With the assembly manual being "OK" for most of the build, there were some areas that, as we previously discussed, needs enhancements.
I went with a spring steel PEI coated bed, there was a group offering in the Facebook group (a great resource)
I have had a great deal of difficulty going from build done to configuring, since there's little to no support in that regard at this time
I used the 3D Maker Noob's "Calibrating Z-Offset With An Auto Bed Levelling Probe" video and that worked perfectly.
I have found that the stock firmware has some things that need altered. The probe offsets are X 10 Y 10. If you measure you'll find it's more like X 5 Y 40. The encoder should be changed, the usable X and Y should checked (I can only go to 344 mm on my Y).... and a few other things (details if you desire)
I'm hearing a high pitched sound from time to time...no idea what that is.
I also get a chattering in one leadscrew randomly. Again...no idea?
It's been quite an adventure. Tonight I'll see if I can piece together a Simplify3D profile!
Hi again. Not sure if I should call your Nerdy or Cool for short? =) Or just Where? (No, that sounds like the start of an Abbott and Costello routine!) Back when I got my original Robo just after they started their kick starter production, I looked a lot at different reel holders because the one that came originally wasn't very good. I'd debated going the bearing route, and while it would probably reduce some of the "clunks" of reels binding and releasing, I never really saw it as an absolute necessity. In some respects, I kind of feel like I failed if I need any additional parts to put together something I printed. Silly, I know, but there ya go!
On the filament detectors, they were cheap and just something to play with. Of course depending on how the firmware handles them, I may not like them anyway. If it stops where it is and doesn't move the head off the part, it's pretty much ruined anyway. We'll see when I get around to hooking them up. Regarding the firmware settings, I was already expecting to have to fiddle with them beyond what was provided, but thanks for the heads up.
On the whine, yes, I've experienced that and even captured some of it in one of my original test videos, although I don't recall now if I left it in or cut it out. I'm under the impression it's due to micro-stepping and we're hearing the chopper frequency from the control board as it attempts to drive the stepper partway between two poles using pulse-width modulation to create the intermediate voltage/current levels. I can't say I've ever heard anything like it one the Robo, and again it could be a firmware setting that could help resolve it.
The chattering on the lead screw is likely some sort of binding with the linear bearings. Coincidentally, you might watch the video I posted recently where I tore into my Celestron telescope mount. It had a problem that I wouldn't be surprised if it's similar to what you're encountering. When the worm gear drives against gravity it's fine, but driving with gravity, the whole thing stutters as the screw moves away from the worm and then the worm falls under the weight of the mount and hits the screw again. The pseudo fix there was to adjust the tensioner to increase the engagement of the worm so that there was less of a gap to chatter, but you can't do that here.
Beo
Hi, any new updates on this? I bought a T-Rex 3 at 700 mm tall, but that was a nasty printer even though supposedly fully assembled, and nearly 3 times the cost. So I am curious if you worked any of the issues out with this and got awesome prints?
I'm about ready to start testing my new dual extruder hot end, so I hope to post a new video in a week or so. Lots of other stuff to show too, but I still haven't actually printed anything useful on this yet. It's just been a project in between work and all my other projects!
Beo
Well, put the testing on hold. I was working on leveling the bed after having fixed the bad countersinks and a problem with the heat pad (wait for the video, you'll be AMAZED at what I found!). I accidentally ran the Y axis into the far stop (not sure why the firmware didn't catch that) and the power supply dipped to zero and everything reset. Couldn't get the motors to home after that, and then I smelled the magic smoke. Turned out the X axis driver (the one that runs the two steppers in parallel) blew. I suspect it was just a load issue since I wasn't even moving that axis. It was just holding. The back EMF of the stalled Y axis probably pushed it over the edge though. So now I'm off to search for a new driver and see if they make higher power versions to handle that double motor setup...
Beo
That is a great design... I just wasted 12 hours on a print because the filament got snagged when I was not looking. Are the STL's for the spool holder available anywhere out there?
Hi Vinnie,
I just uploaded the last versions of these at grabcad.com/library/ft-6-filament-holder-1. Hope they help.
Beo
how do you like the printer so far ?
Hi Amir,
I haven't really had time to work with it much lately. I've done a few big prints with it that have turned out acceptable, but not phenomenal. There are still tweaks I want to try to see if I can improve it, but I really needed a tool, not another project! =) Regardless of what I do, I don't expect it to ever be much more than it is now, which is ok for the price, but nothing special. Given everything I went through though, I probably wouldn't do it again given everything I know now. I still haven't had time to put together the video of having to replace the drivers that blew for the dual stepper setup.
@@lordbeowulf1885 thanks a lot for taking the time to answer me , i was just wondering about the nozzel can you print PA carbon or PLA carbon? which needs 300 degrees. and the bed does it have a cover or just the aluminum ?
@@EnergySeeker I haven't tried printing carbon filament yet, although I have a PLA roll. I replaced with a better set of heaters, but haven't tested just how hot I can go. As far as the bed, it's just bare aluminum, but someone was selling a PEI magnetic build plate for it on Amazon, but I wasn't ready to drop a few hundred more bucks into this thing just yet. If I get it working well enough I might.
Beo
Two things...
One: can you leave a link where you bought that dual extruder from?
Two:Have you tried the capricorn tubing trick? The same way it affected the CR-10 I think it may help this printer
Hi Kunal,
Sure, the link is in another post here somewhere, but the part is still listed at www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-Cyclops-and-Chimera-Extrusion-2-in-1-out-E3D-hotend-Multi-Color-Extruder-kit/32742705685.html. Just about to put it through its paces! Hope to upload a video with all my updates in another week or so.
I just looked up the Capricorn PTFE tubing. I might have to give them a try if I'm still having problems after this. Sounds like they might address some of the potential slop in the Bowden, assuming the filament tolerance isn't a problem. Thanks for the pointer.
Beo
@@lordbeowulf1885 thank you sooo much for the link and I an looking forward to the update video with the new dual extruder design you are using. I bought an FT-6 and hope it comes soon so I can take a crack at some of these issues =)
Very informative videos. Thanks for your work. Would you recommend the FT-6 to a 3d noob such as myself? My needs require a large print space and material would be 99% abs. The cost of this printer makes it very attractive
Hi Chad,
Leaving the printer aside for the moment, your goal to work with ABS as a "noob" is a challenge in and of itself. Even after years of experience with 3D printing and learning the tricks involved, I still have mixed success with ABS, especially for large parts. Assuming that everything else is working perfectly, one of the highly recommended features for ABS printing is a heated enclosed print volume in addition to the heated bed. That does not exist on the FT-6 or pretty much any low end printer, although the frame construction does potentially lend itself to building a shroud for it to help create a controlled environment.
Beyond that, I'd say you success with this will heavily depend on your technical skills. The fact that you want to do 3D printing is a first point in your favor there, but only you can judge your skills. If you've done a lot of electro-mechanical work in the past then you can probably get this kit going. If you have any doubts in that area, then you'd probably be better off with a more complete printer that only needs minor setup.
Good luck!
Beo
ABS starts to become problematic with prints larger than your fist. PETG seems to be the best for large prints because it doesn't warp. If you're determined to use ABS you will struggle to make use of more than the 200mm square that comes standard with any printer.
Nice video. Need more input though :-)
Thanks. I'm assuming you mean you're still looking for more input? I want to get back to working on this, but there's just so much going on right now. At least tax day is past! I may try to work on it sometime in the next week and a half, but my May is shot with stuff for work, so if I don't get something soon, it will be a while!
@@lordbeowulf1885 I'm interested in how things go for this printer as I always liked the size of it, and the dual-ness, ish. It's interesting to see how many problems it has and how you overcame them. One day I'm hoping to see a massive super detailed print from it :-)
Well, I'm making slow progress on upgrades, but not sure I'll get to the super detailed print just yet! =)
@@lordbeowulf1885 One step at a time, or with printer 1500 steps, lol
hey, would you buy the F6 again knowing all you know now?
Hi Chris,
Good question, and I'm not sure I can answer that yet. I still believe that the printer hardware was generally a good value, and under the assumption that they've addressed most of the issues I reported, it should be fine for the price. My biggest concern is the actual quality of the test prints I've done and the amount of stringing that was occurring. Switching to the Matter Hacker software helped there, but didn't completely eliminate it. The result is still not as good as I get off my Robo 3D running the same software. So the real question for me is whether or not the new extruder hot end will change that, or if this is an inherent fault of the Bowden extruder or something else in the design that I can't fix. Regardless of all of the other issues, if I can't get good quality prints off of it then it's not a good printer. If I can, then I'll be happy with it.