The bleeder valve on the small tank is used to know when to stop transferring propane. Small tank bleeder valve should be open entire time you are transferring propane. When the bleeder spits liquid, close the small propane tank inlet valve, the big tank hose valve, close the bleeder valve and open the hose bleeder valve. Gloves and a face shield is a very good idea, unless you like frozen skin.
I would like to let everybody know I bought the set up for the Nash fuel propane transfer, and it actually works problem. I have is The hose with the crimp on fittings leaks, have contacted Nash several times. No response might want to think twice about purchasing from somebody who does not respond to issues. With their product.
So, does the Nash kit come with the drop tube that extends down into the big tank or does the tank come with that assembly in place? I can't imagine installing that into an existing full tank.
The tube is part of the tank and has a check valve assembly under that cap that opens when you install the external valve. There are typically two different fittings, one for liquid (this one) and one for gas. I've heard of people connecting to the wrong one and not being able to figure out why this doesn't work!
I understand that propane tanks are only filled to 80% to allow for expansion due to temperature changes. If this is true, should you not have weighed your tank prior to filling, then set it on a scale while filling so you know you have left the proper room for expansion?
If I was trying to fill it to maximum, sure. However, given this was a test run and I was using that tank to burn off cactus and having to drag it around the pasture, I didn't want it full! th-cam.com/video/q2M0eUQvo_U/w-d-xo.html😁
@@lordbeowulf1885 Maybe I don't understand how this works but when I see liquid coming out of the bleeder valve I assume that means the tank is full, therefore leaving no space for expansion. please help me understand this. Thank you
@@wadebrinson8977 That bleeder valve he loosened at the small tank to release pressure and indicate when tank is full has a tube connected to it which sticks down in the tank (to the 80% full level) and when the level of the liquid rises up to the level of that tube it will spit liquid out indicating you are at proper full level.
No, but I checked with the local supplier I was using to make sure there wouldn't be any problem with state regulations, etc. before I ordered the kit. They told me no, and would have sold and installed a kit for me if I wanted.
Thanks. I contacted them/him through eBay ahead of time and that's where he pointed me to the quick release for the hose. I also contacted him after the sale and he sent me the brass tank adapter in the listing, so I'm happy!
I don't think so. They're just a pressure monitor and the pressure is all over the place as you're letting the gas out, etc. I have one of those and my experience is that it drops as the tank gets cold, not empty! I primarily use mine for burning cactus and go through a large volume of gas that freezes the tank.
Sure, I bought it on eBay at www.ebay.com/itm/193214699341?var=493406067924. They have their own website, but it looks like they specialize in propane conversion kits for engines, so it's not easy to find this there. www.nashfuel.com/
15:20 Why not close the liquid valve at BIG TANK when the small tank is 70% full? 16:28 All that liquid you are venting COULD have gone into the small tank. Stopping source of liquid would allow the entire line to vaporize to gas and flow into the small tank. After a couple of minutes bleeding at the small tank, all the liquid in the big hose will be transferred to the receiving tank, and now only vapor in the big hose.
No that’s not how this works at all, once the main valve is closed all flow will immediately stop, propane stays in a liquid state when captured so the propane in the black hose would just sit there not flowing in either direction until a valve is reopened on the side with higher pressure or until the bleeder valve is opened to dump the excess pressure
Thanks. I mention that white is not the correct tape at about one minute in. Yellow is double density tape, as is blue, although blue appears to be a proprietary material from Blue Monster. Not sure where I'd seen that was the correct tape, although technically it's equivalently better than white and the manufacturer advertises it for LPG and natural gas among other things. But you're correct that from a color code (not performance) standpoint, yellow tape, like yellow pipe, is easily recognizable by inspectors as a double density tape. Much of what I've read online still recommends the use of pipe dope as well to ensure no leaks. None of this means white CAN'T work, but it requires a lot more care (and more wraps, which is probably the biggest reason joints fail -- people get in a hurry) to ensure that you get a good seal, and inspectors may fail it because they can't ensure that a good job was done. Note that the one critical place that special tape is required is for oxygen lines, which require green (no petroleum) tape.
That would help increase the pressure differential, although if you're relieving the pressure on the secondary tank, I'm not sure the cool water would make a noticeable difference. On the other hand, it might save a bit of wasted gas. Remember, everything cools as the pressure is released, but of course a lot of that is going out in the gas that you're letting expand!
@Lord Beowulf one other thought to save lost lp. After your done filling tanks, have one mostly empty tank to dump most of what is in the line in to. That would save. Probably 70% or more of what is lost in the wet transfer line. 0.01c
So ihave this same setup my supply tank is 80% full . My grill tank weighs 24lb when i started. I opened all vales and opened the bleeder on the side of the grill valve. I let it flow for a good 5 mins and turned everything off and put it on the scale snd i actually lost weight what in the world am i doing wrong here?
Hi Mathew, Did you ensure you were getting flow from the supply tank? All valves on in the feed assembly? And the valve into the grill tank? If everything's on so that you are getting flow from the feed tank, then the most likely thing I can think of is that you may not be on the correct port on your feed tank. You have to be on the one that has a tube going down to the bottom of the tank so that you're pushing liquid out from the bottom and not just gas from the top.
Just because you have a “liquid withdrawal” on your storage tank doesn’t mean that is operational for several reasons. One common reason for why you aren’t transferring is you are opening valves to quickly which will activate the excess flow valve that’s built into the valve screwed into the storage tank the solution is to open the valves from the storage tank towards the cylinder also open the valves slowly also another problem could be a defective withdrawal tube inside the storage tank if there is a hole in it above the liquid level of the tank no liquid will come out (basically like trying to use a straw with a hole in the side)
That fitting is an over pressure relief valve. The only place in this setup I see where it can go is on the outlet end of the big valve that connects to the large (source) propane tank. I will open if the pressure in the hose exceeds 400psi or 27.58bar.
f you wait and fill multiple tanks are once, you can cut down on the venting of liquid proplane in the hose as you only do this once for multiple tanks. I keep 12 or so 20# tanks around.
I was gritting my teeth watching this. You're dealing with liquid propane which is extremely dangerous, and you clearly don't know what you're doing. Someone will end up with 3rd degree burns or worse from this video. Please, DON'T DO THIS!!! LP Gas tech, 27yrs,retired
Well this great video brings out all the safety police in full force. However, I think many of them are rent-a-cops who only work the key boards on nights and weekends. Ever heard of Liquid Paper? 😁
No doubt! 😀 My Dad had one of these on his tank for 40+ years without an issue. When we finally built out on our land and had to add a couple of 1000 gallon tanks, it only made sense to take advantage of that. Thanks for the support!
Ever had the liquid hit flesh? it is not cool, it's like neg. 44 and will freeze any flesh it hits very, very quickly. Also being a liquid, it will perinate any clothing till it hits your flesh. You better own the tank, or the Man will come down on you with fines and penalties. Owning the tank transfers all liability to you "the owner" so be sure you don't fuck up or you could lose fingers, hands, or even worse your life. And if it ruptures you are responsible for any and all damages that incurred.
One word. Tools. I didn't want to have to get a wrench out every time I went to use it. In hindsight, given the way the coupling works with the O-ring, I could probably have just done it finger tight and then removed the valve when not in use, but I didn't know that at the time. Also, that would imply leaving the cap loose too.
Talk to the people selling the parts. As far as points of failure, yes, their are lots of connections, but none of those are ever likely to fail. The hose and valve end are the weak links that could eventually fail. Also, it would have had fewer connections if I didn't want the quick release to be able to keep the hose out of the weather.
@ I was just giving my thoughts since this is what I do for a living, you only need six fittings from the tank to the hose end nozzle and you would still have a disconnect at the tank to remove the hose
Actually I used to regularly work with liquid nitrogen which is considerably colder (-320 F vs -44 F) but also much less dense, so less thermal mass and it evaporates quicker creating a vapor barrier. Like everything, it's the amount of exposure that matters. There are always accidents, so wearing gloves, like wearing a helmet on a motorcycle, are a good idea.
Not sure what the question is, unless you're just referring to having to stop the video while I mated the valve to the tank. Given I just pulled out my phone in the middle of assembling the kit and decided to capture this video, I could only do so when I could work one-handed.
I am curious as to what your insurance company will have to say when something goes wrong and you have a disaster on your hands , that is if you are still alive !
Is that your thousand gallon tank or a company owned tank? I hope it's yours because if his company owned you don't have permission to be doing that to it ! You're not letting air out by opening that bleeder you're letting gas out, The purpose of that bleeder is to bleed the pressure off between the valve and the tank when you're unscrewing the hose from the tank .. the valve on the tank also needs a 350 hydrostatic relief valve installed
We don't rent tanks around here, we buy them. However, you still need to get permission/confirmation from your propane company, as I did, since some may not want to fill the tank with a valve on there, while others will sell you the same setup for about ten times what I paid. And while yes, the bleeder allows a controlled release of the LIQUID PROPANE that is in the hose at the end of the fill, at the start with a brand new hose like I had, there is AIR (including oxygen) in the line at the start where it's a good idea to flush that out rather than pushing it into the tank. Granted, it's likely to flush out anyway as you relieve pressure on the tank, but why take that chance? Also, who knows what other contaminants I was flushing out? Regarding the relief valve, while it may not be a bad idea, the only place I was able to find a code requirement for it was for PERMANENT hose installations on the hose side of the tank valve between that an another tank/location. The idea being to protect the hose from bursting if the pressure in the hose gets too high. That shouldn't be much of an issue when just using this to top off a tank where you're relieving the pressure at the other end. If you know of another code requirement that would apply to this kit, feel free to share it.
It doesn't have anything to do with that kit. In the professional propane world, you have a gravity fed dispenser set up here. If you intend to leave the hose on 24/7, you need a relief valve installed on the liquid withdrawal valve and on the hose end valve. Given that you have a quick disconnect, i imagine you will remove the hose after use, so you wont need the relief valve. i would recommend a plug in the valve to keep th o-rings from drying out and to keep out bugs. I'd also HIGHLY recommend some liquid rated gloves as well. The part number for the relief valve should you ever want one is 3127G, manufactured by Rego. @@lordbeowulf1885
@@lordbeowulf1885 1910.110(b)(8)(i) Pipe, except as provided in paragraphs (e)(6)(i) and (g)(10)(iii), of this section shall be wrought iron or steel (black or galvanized), brass, copper, or aluminum alloy. Aluminum alloy pipe shall be at least Schedule 40 in accordance with the specifications for Aluminum Alloy Pipe, American National Standards Institute (ANSI) H38.7-1969 (ASTM, B241-69), which is incorporated by reference as specified in § 1910.6, except that the use of alloy 5456 is prohibited and shall be suitably marked at each end of each length indicating compliance with American National Standard Institute Specifications. Aluminum Alloy pipe shall be protected against external corrosion when it is in contact with dissimilar metals other than galvanized steel or its location is subject to repeated wetting by such liquids as water (except rainwater), detergents, sewage, or leaking from other piping, or it passes through flooring, plaster, masonry, or insulation. Galvanized sheet steel or pipe, galvanized inside and out, may be considered suitable protection. The maximum nominal pipe size for aluminum pipe shall be three-fourths inch and shall not be used for pressures exceeding 20 p.s.i.g. Aluminum alloy pipe shall not be installed within 6 inches of the ground.
Why not the full flow QD fittings for the hose to tank valve. We got the ones by Mr. Heater(?) with the QD Shutoff/ ball valves. Work great. We put Silicone covers / nipple covers over the make and female ends. You could remove 5 fittings and put reducer and the ball valve QD on the tank side to the hose vs the current setup/ Reducing the standoff and potential for leaks.. Plus another safety for potential gas leakage. Additionally a simple digital scale rom aMAZON OR Walmart for the tank to read the actual weight. Hose waste. You can get some Micro Bore Gas rated hose that would considerably cut that waste. 1/16 bore or 1/8 bore.
Hi Mike, Thanks for the comments, but I think most of your suggestions would need to go to Nash Fuels as I just bought their hose kit (as one of the few vendors I could find selling kits and the only one with this type of setup). I did have them add the extra quick release on the hose though. There was someone here asking about covers for the ends, so if you have a link to a supplier, I'm sure they'd appreciate it. I haven't had time (or reason) to go looking myself yet! Thanks, Beo
The bleeder valve on the small tank is used to know when to stop transferring propane. Small tank bleeder valve should be open entire time you are transferring propane. When the bleeder spits liquid, close the small propane tank inlet valve, the big tank hose valve, close the bleeder valve and open the hose bleeder valve. Gloves and a face shield is a very good idea, unless you like frozen skin.
Was about to leave the same comment. LOL... Some DIY projects require a litte research.
I would like to let everybody know I bought the set up for the Nash fuel propane transfer, and it actually works problem. I have is The hose with the crimp on fittings leaks, have contacted Nash several times. No response might want to think twice about purchasing from somebody who does not respond to issues. With their product.
Sorry to hear that. They were pretty responsive for me regarding the plastic fitting for the tank. Here's hoping you'll get a good response.
Yeah. I was looking at their design and hating it. Crimp connectors are terrible. Someone needs to come up with a parts list to DIY this
Hi, Thanks for the video. Where can I get one of those caps?
So, does the Nash kit come with the drop tube that extends down into the big tank or does the tank come with that assembly in place? I can't imagine installing that into an existing full tank.
The tube is part of the tank and has a check valve assembly under that cap that opens when you install the external valve. There are typically two different fittings, one for liquid (this one) and one for gas. I've heard of people connecting to the wrong one and not being able to figure out why this doesn't work!
th-cam.com/video/q82BKnrk8vI/w-d-xo.html
I understand that propane tanks are only filled to 80% to allow for expansion due to temperature changes. If this is true, should you not have weighed your tank prior to filling, then set it on a scale while filling so you know you have left the proper room for expansion?
If I was trying to fill it to maximum, sure. However, given this was a test run and I was using that tank to burn off cactus and having to drag it around the pasture, I didn't want it full! th-cam.com/video/q2M0eUQvo_U/w-d-xo.html😁
@@lordbeowulf1885 Maybe I don't understand how this works but when I see liquid coming out of the bleeder valve I assume that means the tank is full, therefore leaving no space for expansion. please help me understand this. Thank you
th-cam.com/video/f1xQMOpHEfw/w-d-xo.html
@@wadebrinson8977 That bleeder valve he loosened at the small tank to release pressure and indicate when tank is full has a tube connected to it which sticks down in the tank (to the 80% full level) and when the level of the liquid rises up to the level of that tube it will spit liquid out indicating you are at proper full level.
Tanks with 3 star closing valve, has safety device where tanks can't be filled over 80%! That's why all tanks have to have that valve now!
Do you have to take the transfer kit off when you get your large take refilled?
Thank you
No, but I checked with the local supplier I was using to make sure there wouldn't be any problem with state regulations, etc. before I ordered the kit. They told me no, and would have sold and installed a kit for me if I wanted.
@@lordbeowulf1885 awesome
Thank you for your reply
8:25 Completing connection at DIP TUBE on 200 gallon bulk tank.
Nice job. I have looked at purchasing the same but i thought perhaps just calling Nash to make sure i get everything i want.
Thanks. I contacted them/him through eBay ahead of time and that's where he pointed me to the quick release for the hose. I also contacted him after the sale and he sent me the brass tank adapter in the listing, so I'm happy!
@@lordbeowulf1885 Sorry we messed that one up, thanks for working with us, great video!
@@nashfuel8580 I appreciate that you sent the replacement part. Lesser vendors might have just said it is what it is!
Beo
I just received my order and I got the plastic turn know also. That must be the default.
Would those propane gauges on Amazon for $11 tell you how much is in while you fill it?
I don't think so. They're just a pressure monitor and the pressure is all over the place as you're letting the gas out, etc. I have one of those and my experience is that it drops as the tank gets cold, not empty! I primarily use mine for burning cactus and go through a large volume of gas that freezes the tank.
Thanks for sharing that with us and God bless you!
Thanks for the response. God bless us all! We need it!
Can give me a link where I can get that kit?
Sure, I bought it on eBay at www.ebay.com/itm/193214699341?var=493406067924. They have their own website, but it looks like they specialize in propane conversion kits for engines, so it's not easy to find this there. www.nashfuel.com/
Could you possibly sure the link to this kit
15:20 Why not close the liquid valve at BIG TANK when the small tank is 70% full? 16:28 All that liquid you are venting COULD have gone into the small tank. Stopping source of liquid would allow the entire line to vaporize to gas and flow into the small tank. After a couple of minutes bleeding at the small tank, all the liquid in the big hose will be transferred to the receiving tank, and now only vapor in the big hose.
No that’s not how this works at all, once the main valve is closed all flow will immediately stop, propane stays in a liquid state when captured so the propane in the black hose would just sit there not flowing in either direction until a valve is reopened on the side with higher pressure or until the bleeder valve is opened to dump the excess pressure
Yellow Tape is for Gas on the threads fittings not the Blue White tape
Thanks. I mention that white is not the correct tape at about one minute in. Yellow is double density tape, as is blue, although blue appears to be a proprietary material from Blue Monster. Not sure where I'd seen that was the correct tape, although technically it's equivalently better than white and the manufacturer advertises it for LPG and natural gas among other things. But you're correct that from a color code (not performance) standpoint, yellow tape, like yellow pipe, is easily recognizable by inspectors as a double density tape. Much of what I've read online still recommends the use of pipe dope as well to ensure no leaks. None of this means white CAN'T work, but it requires a lot more care (and more wraps, which is probably the biggest reason joints fail -- people get in a hurry) to ensure that you get a good seal, and inspectors may fail it because they can't ensure that a good job was done. Note that the one critical place that special tape is required is for oxygen lines, which require green (no petroleum) tape.
Blue monster tape is universal, can be used for lpg, or natural gas!
I find haveing the supply tank in sun.
And small tank being filled in cool water or running over it. Speeds things up.
That would help increase the pressure differential, although if you're relieving the pressure on the secondary tank, I'm not sure the cool water would make a noticeable difference. On the other hand, it might save a bit of wasted gas. Remember, everything cools as the pressure is released, but of course a lot of that is going out in the gas that you're letting expand!
@Lord Beowulf one other thought to save lost lp.
After your done filling tanks, have one mostly empty tank to dump most of what is in the line in to.
That would save. Probably 70% or more of what is lost in the wet transfer line.
0.01c
does your gas company care if you are doing this? Do they care you have that valve sitting there?
So ihave this same setup my supply tank is 80% full .
My grill tank weighs 24lb when i started. I opened all vales and opened the bleeder on the side of the grill valve. I let it flow for a good 5 mins and turned everything off and put it on the scale snd i actually lost weight what in the world am i doing wrong here?
Hi Mathew,
Did you ensure you were getting flow from the supply tank? All valves on in the feed assembly? And the valve into the grill tank? If everything's on so that you are getting flow from the feed tank, then the most likely thing I can think of is that you may not be on the correct port on your feed tank. You have to be on the one that has a tube going down to the bottom of the tank so that you're pushing liquid out from the bottom and not just gas from the top.
Just because you have a “liquid withdrawal” on your storage tank doesn’t mean that is operational for several reasons. One common reason for why you aren’t transferring is you are opening valves to quickly which will activate the excess flow valve that’s built into the valve screwed into the storage tank the solution is to open the valves from the storage tank towards the cylinder also open the valves slowly also another problem could be a defective withdrawal tube inside the storage tank if there is a hole in it above the liquid level of the tank no liquid will come out (basically like trying to use a straw with a hole in the side)
Where does the brass fitting with 27.58 bar written on it go? any ideas what it's for LB?
That fitting is an over pressure relief valve. The only place in this setup I see where it can go is on the outlet end of the big valve that connects to the large (source) propane tank. I will open if the pressure in the hose exceeds 400psi or 27.58bar.
@@chetbodley8629 ...Thank you Sir.
The reason why you hear it stop flowing is because you stopped relieving the pressure in the small can
f you wait and fill multiple tanks are once, you can cut down on the venting of liquid proplane in the hose as you only do this once for multiple tanks. I keep 12 or so 20# tanks around.
Liquid gas?😅 I'll let you find it. Otherwise, very helpful. Thanks! I think the wrench that fits those odd flats is brass. No?
Propane is LPG and no we don’t use brass wrenches with any propane fittings
What is the difference between the blue and yellow "teflon" tapes?
I was gritting my teeth watching this. You're dealing with liquid propane which is extremely dangerous, and you clearly don't know what you're doing. Someone will end up with 3rd degree burns or worse from this video. Please, DON'T DO THIS!!!
LP Gas tech, 27yrs,retired
Well this great video brings out all the safety police in full force. However, I think many of them are rent-a-cops who only work the key boards on nights and weekends.
Ever heard of Liquid Paper? 😁
No doubt! 😀 My Dad had one of these on his tank for 40+ years without an issue. When we finally built out on our land and had to add a couple of 1000 gallon tanks, it only made sense to take advantage of that. Thanks for the support!
Ever had the liquid hit flesh? it is not cool, it's like neg. 44 and will freeze any flesh it hits very, very quickly. Also being a liquid, it will perinate any clothing till it hits your flesh.
You better own the tank, or the Man will come down on you with fines and penalties.
Owning the tank transfers all liability to you "the owner" so be sure you don't fuck up or you could lose fingers, hands, or even worse your life. And if it ruptures you are responsible for any and all damages that incurred.
Why don't you just remove it from the tank after you use it instead of putting on the disconnect.
One word. Tools. I didn't want to have to get a wrench out every time I went to use it. In hindsight, given the way the coupling works with the O-ring, I could probably have just done it finger tight and then removed the valve when not in use, but I didn't know that at the time. Also, that would imply leaving the cap loose too.
This setup has way too many connections and points of failure, you can put together a simple setup with about 75% less connections
Talk to the people selling the parts. As far as points of failure, yes, their are lots of connections, but none of those are ever likely to fail. The hose and valve end are the weak links that could eventually fail. Also, it would have had fewer connections if I didn't want the quick release to be able to keep the hose out of the weather.
@ I was just giving my thoughts since this is what I do for a living, you only need six fittings from the tank to the hose end nozzle and you would still have a disconnect at the tank to remove the hose
Apparently you have never been burned by liquid propane, once you do trust me you will wear gloves👍
Actually I used to regularly work with liquid nitrogen which is considerably colder (-320 F vs -44 F) but also much less dense, so less thermal mass and it evaporates quicker creating a vapor barrier. Like everything, it's the amount of exposure that matters. There are always accidents, so wearing gloves, like wearing a helmet on a motorcycle, are a good idea.
why don't u show how u installed it
Not sure what the question is, unless you're just referring to having to stop the video while I mated the valve to the tank. Given I just pulled out my phone in the middle of assembling the kit and decided to capture this video, I could only do so when I could work one-handed.
@@lordbeowulf1885 I understand that I just want to know what you did that's all... no tripod,!?
@@gabrielchincarini7345 Not when I'm out working in the pasture and decide to record something part way through the job! =)
The bleeder on the side of the small Tank tells you that it's full it needs to remain open while filling. Especially if you don't have a scale.
Connections like this are not designed to be long term.
Liquid gas...... Dude, you're killing me
Gas as in fuel; in this case propane. But I'm sure you always say you're filling your car with petroleum gasoline and never "gas".
I am curious as to what your insurance company will have to say when something goes wrong and you have a disaster on your hands , that is if you are still alive !
Just how many propane tank explosions do YOU see on the news each night?
Is that your thousand gallon tank or a company owned tank? I hope it's yours because if his company owned you don't have permission to be doing that to it ! You're not letting air out by opening that bleeder you're letting gas out, The purpose of that bleeder is to bleed the pressure off between the valve and the tank when you're unscrewing the hose from the tank .. the valve on the tank also needs a 350 hydrostatic relief valve installed
We don't rent tanks around here, we buy them. However, you still need to get permission/confirmation from your propane company, as I did, since some may not want to fill the tank with a valve on there, while others will sell you the same setup for about ten times what I paid. And while yes, the bleeder allows a controlled release of the LIQUID PROPANE that is in the hose at the end of the fill, at the start with a brand new hose like I had, there is AIR (including oxygen) in the line at the start where it's a good idea to flush that out rather than pushing it into the tank. Granted, it's likely to flush out anyway as you relieve pressure on the tank, but why take that chance? Also, who knows what other contaminants I was flushing out?
Regarding the relief valve, while it may not be a bad idea, the only place I was able to find a code requirement for it was for PERMANENT hose installations on the hose side of the tank valve between that an another tank/location. The idea being to protect the hose from bursting if the pressure in the hose gets too high. That shouldn't be much of an issue when just using this to top off a tank where you're relieving the pressure at the other end. If you know of another code requirement that would apply to this kit, feel free to share it.
It doesn't have anything to do with that kit. In the professional propane world, you have a gravity fed dispenser set up here. If you intend to leave the hose on 24/7, you need a relief valve installed on the liquid withdrawal valve and on the hose end valve. Given that you have a quick disconnect, i imagine you will remove the hose after use, so you wont need the relief valve. i would recommend a plug in the valve to keep th o-rings from drying out and to keep out bugs. I'd also HIGHLY recommend some liquid rated gloves as well. The part number for the relief valve should you ever want one is 3127G, manufactured by Rego. @@lordbeowulf1885
@@lordbeowulf1885
1910.110(b)(8)(i)
Pipe, except as provided in paragraphs (e)(6)(i) and (g)(10)(iii), of this section shall be wrought iron or steel (black or galvanized), brass, copper, or aluminum alloy. Aluminum alloy pipe shall be at least Schedule 40 in accordance with the specifications for Aluminum Alloy Pipe, American National Standards Institute (ANSI) H38.7-1969 (ASTM, B241-69), which is incorporated by reference as specified in § 1910.6, except that the use of alloy 5456 is prohibited and shall be suitably marked at each end of each length indicating compliance with American National Standard Institute Specifications. Aluminum Alloy pipe shall be protected against external corrosion when it is in contact with dissimilar metals other than galvanized steel or its location is subject to repeated wetting by such liquids as water (except rainwater), detergents, sewage, or leaking from other piping, or it passes through flooring, plaster, masonry, or insulation. Galvanized sheet steel or pipe, galvanized inside and out, may be considered suitable protection. The maximum nominal pipe size for aluminum pipe shall be three-fourths inch and shall not be used for pressures exceeding 20 p.s.i.g. Aluminum alloy pipe shall not be installed within 6 inches of the ground.
How bout you mind your own business
@@mainelivin3699 I mean you could mind yours too. Just saying.
This guy is dangerous and doesn’t understand the liquid withdrawal valve nor how to safely install the new valve. 😊
Why not the full flow QD fittings for the hose to tank valve. We got the ones by Mr. Heater(?) with the QD Shutoff/ ball valves. Work great. We put Silicone covers / nipple covers over the make and female ends.
You could remove 5 fittings and put reducer and the ball valve QD on the tank side to the hose vs the current setup/ Reducing the standoff and potential for leaks.. Plus another safety for potential gas leakage.
Additionally a simple digital scale rom aMAZON OR Walmart for the tank to read the actual weight.
Hose waste. You can get some Micro Bore Gas rated hose that would considerably cut that waste. 1/16 bore or 1/8 bore.
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the comments, but I think most of your suggestions would need to go to Nash Fuels as I just bought their hose kit (as one of the few vendors I could find selling kits and the only one with this type of setup). I did have them add the extra quick release on the hose though.
There was someone here asking about covers for the ends, so if you have a link to a supplier, I'm sure they'd appreciate it. I haven't had time (or reason) to go looking myself yet!
Thanks,
Beo