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They are working on beacon. Beacon going forward would be MUCH better than tap. Tap sucks.

@@8BitLife69 not a fan of tap. Had it on two machines and swapped both to beacon

@@1Kingcb Same. Though I'm going back on one for the multi toolhead stealthchanger running Yavoth. They can't come out with a beacon version soon enough for me.

@@GrizzLeeAdams The way the Klipper canbus on MCU works is that all commands for the Manta go though the canbus protocol as well. Meaning it needs to drive the 6 motors in addition to toolheads. This caused homing timeouts for me a year ago. Homing is def the most demanding operation for pushing a lot of messages in a short bursts. I suspect they just got backed up in the transmission queue. The MCU serial interface is clocked at 250kb/s so theoretically a 500kb/s canbus should beat it. I suspect the frame overhead and frame pacing limitations are playing a significant role.

It supports only up to 5 toolheads for what I know

Bigtreetech CEB is the name

Its almost a great solution. It would be perfect if they just gave you 7 power and 7 signal screw terminals. As it is, it takes two to have a clean setup or your gonna have to have different connectors for different heads.

Exactly - the propper way is to have everything in one chain - I see that people seem to get away with this, but signal quality will be degraded over a correct bus layout with two terminated ends and the more of those branches there are the worse it will be. I’m not set on what I will do with my printers (I am building two with tapchanger) - either run two set of bus wire to the head to allow the head to be in the bus middle or use multiple CAN buses with the host controller in the middle and just two heads at each end. Another thing, about the MKS CAN bus controller: it is isolated, so this one has no connection between bus ground and USB ground and without a common ground the bus is even more degraded.

Exactly - the propper way is to have everything in one chain - I see that people seem to get away with this, but signal quality will be degraded over a correct bus layout with two terminated ends and the more of those branches there are the worse it will be. I’m not set on what I will do with my printers (I am building two with tapchanger) - either run two set of bus wire to the head to allow the head to be in the bus middle or use multiple CAN buses with the host controller in the middle and just two heads at each end. Another thing, about the MKS CAN bus controller: it is isolated, so this one has no connection between bus ground and USB ground and without a common ground the bus is even more degraded. Do you have a product number for that Igus cable by the way?

He is just using a star topology which is really common

@@tructruc00 Right, it is a very common mistake. The signal quality isn’t as good as it should be and the more of such violations you do the worse it is. This is plain physics - at a branch you will get a reflection, the head cables are unterminated, so there will be reflections too. All branchings happen at nearly the same location, so all those branch reflections happen at the same time, the head cables are more or less the same length, so those reflections come back to the branch point at nearly the same time. If you want to branch without reflection you would have have to use a different impedance cable to the head, but the you would have problems with the signals coming from the head to the branch point. You can’t overcome physics. While the signal might still be good enough with a single branch, adding 6 branches is really asking for troubles - that’s 5/6th of the signal energy being reflected at the branch point and only 1/6th being passed, of which only 1/(6*6)th goes to each head. Because the cables are rather short, the reflection times are short too, so time is a bit on your side and chances are that things equal out fast enough after a few reflection iterations. That’s why a few mm branch into a chip on a PCB is usually fine. You normally don’t see the signal quality, since it is digital - it either works or it doesn’t, but you won’t know how marginal it is unless you go and scope an eye pattern signal. If you play by the rules you are safe - if you violate them you should know what you are doing.

@@tructruc00 Which is the wrong way to do CAN bus unless you are going to have repeater at hub and separate networks.

nudge probe, klipper machine vision nozzle alignment or similas

@@woutervossebeld4664 thanks!

I am interested in the extruder too. Looks like HGX Lite gears. Regarding CAN bus, i think all toolhead boards are on the same CAN bus.

@@Alterproll I mean the other end. What controls these 6 extruders via CAN?

there are CANbus splitters to help you, but with CANbus, you can run them all into one port, it detects the different boards on the other end regardless

@@Mintor94 Some Usb-can board i would bet. I am using FYSETC UCAN. Under 7$ on ali and very easy to use (gets plugged into the Raspi).

For example the BTT Manta M8P has an integrated Can Board, no need for an additional one.

the clicking is it clicking into the rail, flexing a little if it was without magnets thered be 3mm or so linear movement without resistance, and then a small bump to overcome, and then the tool would drop out. the 3mm linear motion is whats used for tapping.

If it's real PC should be absolutely fine. Heat deflection temp is 147c

@@josejimenez896 that is really rare, most PC filaments are blends and have around 90-110 HDT unfortunately.

@@riba2233 then don't buy shit blends lmao

@@josejimenez896 but 90% of PC filaments you can buy are like that... So idk what to do lol

@@riba2233 read a TDS sheet lmao. If the build plate heated temps are anything less than 110 or 280 for the hotend, it's a blend. That simple

I have a customized HGX large gears extruder, see the extras folder in Tapchanger repo.

It's in the tapchanger repo, extras folder.

I tried folding the cables within the stock frame. And it ended up being a sphagetti mess with toolheads being knocked out of the docks on change. There is just too much length to manage. Maybe if some of that is stowed away in the back of the printer, but that adds extra size at the back. The liftbar is very much about giving maximum print volume and Trident support. I would recommend starting with a rigid mount first.

Thanks, doing that.

Same for me

Same here too

😧Late night editing. Fixing now.

@@viesturz haha lol i though i was going insane for a bit. lol still good video very cool keep it up!

@@viesturzwhere did you get the better quality bushing and pins?

That's totally fine. I personally find SB too heavy.

In what is desolve ASA and ABS is not?