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My problem is that you are a one man show and not willing to let others help easily. PR's sit forever, and you give very little to no support in discord. The same questions get asked every day (and the comments here I see). I think you have seen how far Stealthchanger has come in such a short time and gotten upset.

oh wait you need to glue in the rods? has anyone had issues with that before?

There can a huge variance in magnet strength (especially aliexpress one) even from the same batch. Tapchanger has 2 magnet contact points vs Stealthchangers 3 magnets. (2 of which are against screws which should also cause a bit less attraction) Therefore I would expect Tapchangers force needed to at least 2/3 of Stealtchangers one but not more than double as you meassured. Are the tapchangers magnets are flush against each other?

12:04 I can see there is a lot of ghosting on these test print. Are those because of the tool changer mechanisms? What I want to ask is that, if I build a toolchanger capable voron is that going be a worst single color printer then a voron without a toolchanger?

is there a stealthburner version?

Will tap work with both ?

Input shaper comparison would be really nice to see

Could the probing inconsistencies be mitigated with somehow reducing the pressure required? You said 2 magnets was not sufficient to hold down the Stealthchanger tool on the shuttle, but what if you tried thinner magnets? The force required to probe should be reduced, but will it hold well enough to be stable? If it is secure enough, you could play with the magnet depth in the current holes to test probing force vs stability of the toolhead. I really want to build a toolchanger, but I can't decide which way to go. Bearings vs pins. Seems both work well enough, each with its own challenges.

Is the default tapchanger plates, bars or rods? I’ve got rods made, but not installed.

I like tapchaner, bearings seem better. Beacon instead of tapping

Will u be making one for switchwire?

my fit for stealthchanger was quite stiff at first too, i used a drill bit to clean out the inner of the bushing, after that it was smoothly engeaging

Great work as always! We’re aware that some users have had issues with probe tapping. It’s something we are trying to fix for our next version down the line. We’re very open to input and suggestions from you regarding improvements

Perhaps don't assume people know what the heck these products are. Just a sentence in the description goes a long way.

i just realized something, the difference between Newton and I is that when Newton had a question he analyzed it and worked on it, i had the same question (tap changer vs stealthchanger) but never worked on it, thank you for doing this and definitely will be following these testings. ( btw if you will publish your finding is it going to be only here or other platforms as well ? ).

Most hyped I've been in a while

glad i just got so much ABS filament in, just in case i can reprint it all ^^

Interesting! Would like to see Input Shaping graphs compared as well, if possible.

Good question! Both systems have there pros and cons. I would prefer the most accurate, durable and easy to maintain system. Thank you for your work on it!!!

Uh.. what is this now? What printer is that for?

I'm very excited for the testing! I'm most interested in the rigidity of the toolchangers and their respective weights.

Typo in title, otherwise thanks for sharing!

a big thank you. thanks to you i was able to adapt your awesome tap changer lite and the idea of the liftbar to my metal BLV MGN Cube Core XY. i jsut made my first dock/undock tonight and i'm super happy. th-cam.com/video/F6gTkpMWvvs/w-d-xo.html

Amazing work

Looking awesome! Hows the liftbar treating you? Any issues or fails from added complexity?

THIS IS AWESOME!

what extruder are you using? is it like a sherpa mini with LGX/HGX gears?

Thanks for these videos! This is just awesome!

Have you tried Nudge?

i feel like having a liftbar disables the option of just having a 6x6 grid of toolheads :P

If I may ask, what is that extruder? It has the parts of the HGX lite correct? would the HGX light extruder also work (in aluminium), or is there a reason you are using this printed version?

Fantastic machine. Looks and acts a lot better than prusa xl. Way to go!

What printer is this

Hello, I would like to know if multi-color printing can now print perfectly? Still in the process of adjustment, I really like this project

Looks great. Whats the repeatability tolerance?

Can you upload a video with a sample of a print with all those print heads?I am intreasted to build a similar project 😅

Amazing, thanks a lot! Cant wait for this to be a standard thing you just do to your printer and klipper ships with the software from the getgo. Its IMO the biggest thing that holds 3d printing back, automatic material and color change.

6:45 you could try mounting a deflecting plate/bar underneath the inactive toolheads so that the cables do not catch on them while using the full Y-travel

What are the advantages of the lift bar

how much i will buy everything from you

Not sure I understand. Why cant your 2.4 just lift the gantry to pick up a tool instead of adding another half of printer to do the same task

"Something i cant hack shortly (klipper syncronisation)" what you can do ist Wait for the Printhead has done moving, get the "Printer Time" add a second and start boot "Motors" at this Time with the speed you need. (if you like i can figure out the python Methods you have to call)

Hopefully during tool changes the bearing block doesn't get messed up

Why use belts instead of lead screws for the lift?

modifying a Galileo 2 Z drive might might save some space

Amazing work. What door hinge are you using for the front doors?

What kind of constraints are you working within? Could you breakout through the back and add some counterweights? Then it should be possible to fall back to one motor.