why are you doing this... just why... i just rebuilding my voron with a lots of mods and its almost done.. and after watching this video, i am fully prepare to start from scratch because this looks soooooo good. best way to describe my feelings right now is spongebob meme "i don't need it....I NEED IT"
Incredible work ! Looks like a promising solution to pooping when doing multicolor prints. I was wondering, how is the printer able to know wich tool is currently on the shuttle ?
I added the misc repo in description, see the Skirt Mods folder. I burned out my initial 19mm power button - the inrush current of 700w of PSUs is a thing. So now I have a 10amp 22mm button from Aliexpress just directly screwed into the skirt hole.
Nice work. If I had a voron, I would build it. But i'm 5 months deep into my own TC design for a ratrig :P We really need a better interface in klipperscreen for the macros. Or a way to display a mainsail interface on an hdmi connected screen...
@@DoK_ToP I don't know what board the OP has. But this project doesn't require a special board if using canbus. Each canbus board has an onboard extruder motor driver. Edit: I guess you either need a mainboard that is canbus compatible or something like a BTT U2C to connect the canbus boards to the RPI. But that is a given for going canbus, not just with tap changer.
Getting close but small tweaks will always come. I'm aiming to make a wrap up video over Christmas. From the top of my head - better big block hotend support, slight tension adjustment screw angle tweak, a bit better clearance between the shuttle legs and optical sensor when docking. Edit: this is what I'm aiming to tweak by the end of the year, then there will be a pause and looking to make an adaptation for the trident.
If u use an mmu system like enraged rabbit... you only need two toolhead.... If the printer print woth the first toolhead, then in the other can change with filament....and then the printer change to the second then the first can change color....that result, no need extra time for color change, it can change color in the background while the printer works and no need for 4-6 toolheads (the non used hotend can color change and purge while printing in progress) mmu combine with your tool head changing method could be absolutely genius
Around minute 5 you mention knowing which toolhead was in use. I'm guessing you using the accelerometer data for this? I looked through your example config files, but didn't see how you figured out which tool was active. I'm still a noob.
Nice work! Ive been following along for a while. Im getting closer myself. Almost finished the second toolhead, just ordered more parts for the next two. Migt have 4 total. Is your Voron a 300 or 350?
Cool, nice to hear. Mine is 350, I can fit 6 easily, maybe 7 if I make it tight. 4sounds like a reasonable middle ground, I have yet to use more than 4. The remaining two are dedicated for abrasives and high flow.
I just love it, its already on my list after my current project... Generally speeking, wheres the setting for G0/G1 speeds ? Because id like to speed that up aswell
In the toolchanger.cfg - up top. There are two speeds - one for the fast moves and another for the slow moves. I did a fairly extensive rework of the config files, so you might need to update.
@@viesturz thank you very much for replying... yeah in the toolchanger cfg i see them, by in general i also ment on how can i change those on my current 2.4 speed, multi toolhead 2.4 is just a bit planned so far but not any further so far, sorry
@@3DWolfEngineeringnot sure if I understand the question. The speed is specified with the F parameter in G0/G1 commands. When it's not present the previous speed is used. For manual control buttons in the web UI, there is a config section for the UI that defines the speeds. And there are max speeds in your printer.cfg, no command can go faster than that.
@@viesturz no worries, yeah you understood right ... yep i know that F its pretty much just standard gcode as its also used for CNC, lasercutting... Okay only that i dont always want to type G0 cordinates and the speed ... doesnt seem like its the previouse speed either because its always the same slow isnt there a general setting that defines how fast G0 is ? I know the max speed in printer cfg and also some homing /klicky or autoz have their own speed settings in their cfg... I am trying to tune my whole printer to speed (partially shared on my freshly started youtube XD) and i am quite sucessful with it except for the print start sequence and if i just run G0 commands in the console... They all have their setting somewhere i couldnt find yet and print start is split into multiple smaller gcodes QGL and all that which not all have a speed and accel setting... soo i thought maybe you know where that setting is hidden since you wrote your own .cfg files and developed a perfect Toolchanging system... sorry for typing so much and keeping you busy... thank you so much for replying and trying to help me - apprechiate it !
why are you doing this... just why... i just rebuilding my voron with a lots of mods and its almost done.. and after watching this video, i am fully prepare to start from scratch because this looks soooooo good. best way to describe my feelings right now is spongebob meme "i don't need it....I NEED IT"
Just learned about this project! Amazing work! Always wanted to design a system like this myself. Hope to contribute to this project in the future!
Awesome, welcome abroad. Feel free to drop a PM in discord. Or file bugs/pull requests in GitHub.
Looks good! I like the hybrid XY homing
This looks awesome!
Incredible work ! Looks like a promising solution to pooping when doing multicolor prints.
I was wondering, how is the printer able to know wich tool is currently on the shuttle ?
Each tool has an optical sensor that is used as a nozzle Z probe (like Tap) and also to detect which tool is mounted.
where can I find the mod for the usb at the front of the skirt? and same for the on and of button.
I added the misc repo in description, see the Skirt Mods folder.
I burned out my initial 19mm power button - the inrush current of 700w of PSUs is a thing.
So now I have a 10amp 22mm button from Aliexpress just directly screwed into the skirt hole.
Nice work. If I had a voron, I would build it. But i'm 5 months deep into my own TC design for a ratrig :P
We really need a better interface in klipperscreen for the macros.
Or a way to display a mainsail interface on an hdmi connected screen...
Cool project!!! What kind of board are you using for so many heads and printer?
It uses canbus. So each toolhead has its own board.
@@SymptomReliefAll print heads are controlled via CAN. What is the general control board?
@@DoK_ToP I don't know what board the OP has. But this project doesn't require a special board if using canbus. Each canbus board has an onboard extruder motor driver.
Edit: I guess you either need a mainboard that is canbus compatible or something like a BTT U2C to connect the canbus boards to the RPI. But that is a given for going canbus, not just with tap changer.
Would you say this is ready for "live" or is there more development to be done?
When is something ever finished :D but yeah, I would like to know that too
Getting close but small tweaks will always come.
I'm aiming to make a wrap up video over Christmas. From the top of my head - better big block hotend support, slight tension adjustment screw angle tweak, a bit better clearance between the shuttle legs and optical sensor when docking.
Edit: this is what I'm aiming to tweak by the end of the year, then there will be a pause and looking to make an adaptation for the trident.
If u use an mmu system like enraged rabbit... you only need two toolhead.... If the printer print woth the first toolhead, then in the other can change with filament....and then the printer change to the second then the first can change color....that result, no need extra time for color change, it can change color in the background while the printer works and no need for 4-6 toolheads (the non used hotend can color change and purge while printing in progress) mmu combine with your tool head changing method could be absolutely genius
Around minute 5 you mention knowing which toolhead was in use. I'm guessing you using the accelerometer data for this? I looked through your example config files, but didn't see how you figured out which tool was active. I'm still a noob.
Nice work! Ive been following along for a while. Im getting closer myself. Almost finished the second toolhead, just ordered more parts for the next two. Migt have 4 total. Is your Voron a 300 or 350?
Cool, nice to hear.
Mine is 350, I can fit 6 easily, maybe 7 if I make it tight. 4sounds like a reasonable middle ground, I have yet to use more than 4. The remaining two are dedicated for abrasives and high flow.
This should also work on a Trident right?
No, it needs toolhead to move vertically with respect to frame.
I have something in the works for trident as well. Sometime early next year.
Would you toolchanger for trident fit in 250mm trident ?otherwise I would need to sell it for a 2.4v 😢
@@Daniel-hw9zk Yes. However still not clear how much Y travel will be lost.
Maybe a extra Z in the suport of heatools?
I just love it, its already on my list after my current project...
Generally speeking, wheres the setting for G0/G1 speeds ? Because id like to speed that up aswell
In the toolchanger.cfg - up top. There are two speeds - one for the fast moves and another for the slow moves.
I did a fairly extensive rework of the config files, so you might need to update.
@@viesturz thank you very much for replying... yeah in the toolchanger cfg i see them, by in general i also ment on how can i change those on my current 2.4 speed, multi toolhead 2.4 is just a bit planned so far but not any further so far, sorry
@@3DWolfEngineeringnot sure if I understand the question.
The speed is specified with the F parameter in G0/G1 commands. When it's not present the previous speed is used.
For manual control buttons in the web UI, there is a config section for the UI that defines the speeds.
And there are max speeds in your printer.cfg, no command can go faster than that.
@@viesturz no worries, yeah you understood right ... yep i know that F its pretty much just standard gcode as its also used for CNC, lasercutting...
Okay only that i dont always want to type G0 cordinates and the speed ... doesnt seem like its the previouse speed either because its always the same slow isnt there a general setting that defines how fast G0 is ?
I know the max speed in printer cfg and also some homing /klicky or autoz have their own speed settings in their cfg...
I am trying to tune my whole printer to speed (partially shared on my freshly started youtube XD) and i am quite sucessful with it except for the print start sequence and if i just run G0 commands in the console...
They all have their setting somewhere i couldnt find yet and print start is split into multiple smaller gcodes QGL and all that which not all have a speed and accel setting... soo i thought maybe you know where that setting is hidden since you wrote your own .cfg files and developed a perfect Toolchanging system...
sorry for typing so much and keeping you busy... thank you so much for replying and trying to help me - apprechiate it !
Great work m8