ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 เม.ย. 2024
- Long rant on liftbar develeopment.
All the files are now up in github.com/viesturz/tapchanger
Still really busy with work, so will not hang out in Discord for a while.
Let me know if the comments if you are building this.
This is awesome! I imagine if you didn't need the full Y of the build plate, you could further reduce tool change time by just having the liftbar following along with the z-height of the print at any given time as well. Keep up the great work!
Amazing, thanks a lot! Cant wait for this to be a standard thing you just do to your printer and klipper ships with the software from the getgo. Its IMO the biggest thing that holds 3d printing back, automatic material and color change.
Great work! Thank you!!!
6:45 you could try mounting a deflecting plate/bar underneath the inactive toolheads so that the cables do not catch on them while using the full Y-travel
On a 2.4 with 4 Bed fans, would it be easy enough to invert the stepper setup ? Or does that clash with too many other things ? Love your work mate!
Amazing work. What door hinge are you using for the front doors?
Amazing!!!
great work i will try somehting like that mon my blv mgn cube
is there a stealthburner version?
You do mention the Trident quite a bit for the liftbar project, do you happen to have one? You show it on your 2.4, hence my question ^^'
No I don't have one. Hence using 2.4 as a placeholder
Can you upload a video with a sample of a print with all those print heads?I am intreasted to build a similar project 😅
Really cool! I think that if you substitute one of the sides with a pulley, it could simplify the system
I started with that, but the belt tension is a bit much for 6 toolheads. With 10mm belt, maybe.
Hello, I would like to know if multi-color printing can now print perfectly? Still in the process of adjustment, I really like this project
modifying a Galileo 2 Z drive might might save some space
If I may ask, what is that extruder?
It has the parts of the HGX lite correct?
would the HGX light extruder also work (in aluminium), or is there a reason you are using this printed version?
Well this answered itself just now, you have uploaded the STLs just now.
Thank you
What kind of constraints are you working within? Could you breakout through the back and add some counterweights? Then it should be possible to fall back to one motor.
Trying to fit in a normal Voron frame. Counterweights might be an option, just don't like them.
Neither do I, but it is a way to balance everything, although the stepper will have to accelerate twice the mass. So, may not work out anyways.
What are the advantages of the lift bar
How wide each tool and dock?
You are using usb cables for CAN ?
Yes, as a flexible small cable with the right number of wires. The 100w rated USB cables work nicely. Of course I strip off the USB connectors and wire them up to canbus.
i feel like having a liftbar disables the option of just having a 6x6 grid of toolheads :P
I'm not sure if I want to see that for lols or not : 😂
Powering all of that would be a nightmare.
@@viesturz spaghetti monster
"Something i cant hack shortly (klipper syncronisation)" what you can do ist Wait for the Printhead has done moving, get the "Printer Time" add a second and start boot "Motors" at this Time with the speed you need. (if you like i can figure out the python Methods you have to call)
Why use belts instead of lead screws for the lift?
Lead screws is def an option. To be fair I have some sitting around I could use. Just this is working well enough and looks nice with 2.4 asthetic.
I will make a lead screws build if the belts/gearboxes ever fail.
how much i will buy everything from you
Maybe home at top, just stall like mk3 does to calibrate z, if belt would tolerate
Yes can home at top for sure. I did not do that in my build because the top hat is too low and the umbilicals kept being squished.
Not sure I understand. Why cant your 2.4 just lift the gantry to pick up a tool instead of adding another half of printer to do the same task
Because I can 😅.