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Yes, the same installation works on any of the Bambu X or P series. It's possible (but not recommended) to use both on the same machine... the gcode is extremely difficult for those that don't understand it.

Sure we're still around. We have published mounts for the SV-08, however, I'm not aware of anyone one doing a specific filament cutter (3DClippy) for the Stealthburner... but there is a alternate extruder for the Voron with an integrated cutter (similar to the Bambu design.) But for everything else, it's just using our normal kit and a couple of printed parts that are available on Printables. Also, the community has developed some great Klipper macros specifically for it.

Ankermake Studio breaks the ability to multi-color printing... you need to use PrusaSlicer for it. (They have no way of adding additional extruders to it... it's grayed out.)

It stays in the hot end to be purged.

If you remove (or just loosen) the back panel, there is a nice clear path for it to go inside and route to the slot where you adjust the tension.

I'm not sure what you're asking. It can be installed on any of the Bambu X and P series printers... and there is a stealth installation, where the Y adapter is on the back instead of inside it, so the top cover can still be utilized.

@@williamsteele Yeah, I'm just basically wondering if the top cover can still be utilized. It's a tempting alternative to AMS but I want to be sure I can still print nylons etc.

th-cam.com/video/1oLX557xDho/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUOM2RjaGFtZWxlb24gazE%3D

So, what kind of machine are you installing it on? This video shows the only needed steps for the installation... And the switch mounting location for this style of machine, but it just needs to be mounted somewhere that a moving part of the printer can press it... It can literally be at the end of any moving axis.

@@williamsteele I am installing it on a Creality Ender 3 Max Neo and I have it installed on the front x axis but in the video it looks like you installed it where the wheels are under the bed on x axis also I can't seem to find the proper switch mount for the Max Neo is there a diagram for the ptfe tube placement and I cant seem to get the sec's or mm's down on how to program the gcode generator as I don't know how to convert inches to mm's how often does the chameleon switch have to be pressed to change colors

Yes, I have both and it's identical.

The Tinkercad files for the 3DClippys that we have published show the full assemblies for them. They won't be on our website as they are open source projects and each designer will have their own variations, so there isn't a single set of instructions that can cover all the variations. Our generic designs are a good place to start. These are all very simple and should be pretty obvious once you see how it works.

We have a video on how to cut new tubes in this playlist... And to insert them, you can simply loosen the 4 screws around the extruder which will allow you to pull out the old tubes and insert the new ones. As for the Ender 3 V2, it's on Printables... It's the blue one that is rotated 90 degrees to avoid the Z screw.

Of course... We highly recommend you cut them to the proper length to minimize the drag on it.

@@williamsteele Thanks I found an install file on you site and the very last step was to trim them..I am going to try and get this working on one of my ender 3 v3 ke printer. I was going to use my k1 but I use them for abs asa and tpu.

How what works specifically? The servo cutter itself? With the Mk4, there is nothing you need to do, it's just automatic... whenever you command it to retract the filament, it will always cut it prior to backing it out.

Ok

You're free to do that, but I'm not going to change our design, that's akin to McDonalds changing the golden arches to something else. We've used our Y adapter since before any of those other companies existed... it's our trademark. As for the distances... I'm a little confused as to why you'd think you'd need to change the distances for each tube, as all 4 tubes should be identical, so it is 100% the same configuration. In fact, you can actually use our configuration (gcode) with their 4 to 1 unmodified and it'll still work 100% the same.

@@williamsteele No issues at all with your solution, I do find it an elegant add-on especially as I can use it with some dry boxes, but my bad for misunderstanding your toolchange G-Code. I've yet to order my 3D Chameleon from you, but will when the new 3D printer arrives, I'll definitely will be fitting one to it, with a DIY filament cutter solution, but will probably use an OEM 4-1 adaptor despite the heresy. :)

Yes, it's identical, except the Mk4 only uses Mode 3... so there's nothing to set.

@@williamsteele cool. Will look at your store

It's a universal kit and works on any printer.

Check out Chris' Basement videos on it to see how simple it is... he has a video where he upgrades the older unit and disassembles and reassembles it, so you get a feel of how it goes together and how it works.

Yes, it works on any printer.

@@williamsteele even direct drive printers

@@Built3D Sure, it works on any printer. I might add, the Select Mini 2 isn't a direct drive printer. You can see many examples of the various types of printers on Printables.

I’m just curious I Also run some ender 3v3s and I have been wanting to get into multicolor

I want to get the Creality k2 combo but I’m practically broke so I thought this would be a good alternative

That's the distance between the extruder and where the top of the Y adapter is... In seconds.

Yep, I have it installed on a X-Plus 3 already. We have mounts available for it on Tinkercad.

@williamsteele, can you help me. I would like to use this product on x-plus 3. Is it easy to install, and what extra hardware or software do i need? Thank you

We only officially support PrusaSlicer. There is a guide on our website's forum that talks about how to get Simplfy3D to work, but we don't officially support it.

Sure, the parts are listed in the description.

It's 100% identical to the Mk3.

Just friction keeps it in place... but I've never had issues with it.

The green connector is to the outside of the case, and the red is towards the center of the case.

Thank you @@williamsteele ! Just noticed you mentioned "green wire towards the corner" at 21:58. Cheers!

It's available now, we ship world wide.

The Printer in the video doesn't have a Bowden tube either, it's a direct drive. There are PTFE coupler mounts for most printers. The Neptune 3 (an Elegoo) is similar to most of them, so can easily be adapted to if there isn't one already... but I'm pretty sure someone out there has done it already.

We have published the files on Printables... Just search for 3DChameleon K1 to find them.

Watch Chris' Basement's video on it. You can see it here: th-cam.com/video/sq4maecRiSM/w-d-xo.html

The announcement will be at the Rocky Mountain RepRap Fest in April

That's not a bug, it's by design. In Mode 2, we load 11" but only unload 10" because the extruder makes up for the rest. If you are testing by hand, it will walk up that way. In Mode 3, you need to adjust the timing to match your actual distances.

@williamsteele great thanks for the clarification. I guess that will get worked out in the gcode while printing. I haven't made it to my first color change. Fighting my offset the couple of times I tried. I have it loading the first color and trying to print.

@@thedunemasterJust let me know if you have any questions... I'm always here to help.

​@@williamsteeleI am planning to get one mk3. Going to pair it with FLSun SR, and klipper. Is there any good documentation, forum post, or else to control the unit via GPIO? I would use klipper's output_pin with custom macros for T0 T1 T2 T3 commands instead of slicer settings (btw that's Orca). Am I on the right path or not?

Yep