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Yep, I have it installed on a X-Plus 3 already. We have mounts available for it on Tinkercad.

We only officially support PrusaSlicer. There is a guide on our website's forum that talks about how to get Simplfy3D to work, but we don't officially support it.

Sure, the parts are listed in the description.

It's 100% identical to the Mk3.

Just friction keeps it in place... but I've never had issues with it.

The green connector is to the outside of the case, and the red is towards the center of the case.

Thank you @@williamsteele ! Just noticed you mentioned "green wire towards the corner" at 21:58. Cheers!

It's available now, we ship world wide.

The Printer in the video doesn't have a Bowden tube either, it's a direct drive. There are PTFE coupler mounts for most printers. The Neptune 3 (an Elegoo) is similar to most of them, so can easily be adapted to if there isn't one already... but I'm pretty sure someone out there has done it already.

Watch Chris' Basement's video on it. You can see it here: th-cam.com/video/sq4maecRiSM/w-d-xo.html

The announcement will be at the Rocky Mountain RepRap Fest in April

That's not a bug, it's by design. In Mode 2, we load 11" but only unload 10" because the extruder makes up for the rest. If you are testing by hand, it will walk up that way. In Mode 3, you need to adjust the timing to match your actual distances.

@williamsteele great thanks for the clarification. I guess that will get worked out in the gcode while printing. I haven't made it to my first color change. Fighting my offset the couple of times I tried. I have it loading the first color and trying to print.

@@thedunemasterJust let me know if you have any questions... I'm always here to help.

​@@williamsteeleI am planning to get one mk3. Going to pair it with FLSun SR, and klipper. Is there any good documentation, forum post, or else to control the unit via GPIO? I would use klipper's output_pin with custom macros for T0 T1 T2 T3 commands instead of slicer settings (btw that's Orca). Am I on the right path or not?

Yep

1) Extruder replacement mode is not recommended due to difficulty in setting it up (software wise.) We do not have auto generated code for it and you'll need to write it all by hand, on top of using our post processor that reverses T2 and T3 for proper operation. 2) I've not seen an extruder yet that you can't load via software... even if they have a lever, it's only for human interaction... our gcode synchronizes the motions of both the 3DChameleon and the stock extruder to push/pull at the same time, so it will load. You can see it in our other videos in the playlist, like the Ender 5, which also has a lever, but it works just fine.

@williamsteele Thanks for the clarification. I will go for the extruder mode. I was noticing as I was going through the checkout by loading 4 filiments and letting it change between colors that when I would load the first color it would stick in the y adapter. and not fully extrude. Then when it would retract it would retract too far, because it never extruded as far as it thought It did to begin with. After this would happen it was just really confused. O would have to unplug the power reload the filiments to the starting position. It would rarely get through all 4 color changes without this happening. It always seemed to be color 1 that would hang up. Is there a way to keep this from happening?

@@thedunemaster So, for extruder mode, you're going to have to take the extruder motor out of the 3DChameleon. When you do, make sure the drive gears are aligned properly (or tightened properly) against the motor shaft. It's possible they're not, which is causing the issue. You can also adjust the tension (by printing new tension tuning sliders from our Tinkercad repository) to increase the tension... however, 99.9% of the cases of this is just drive gear alignment. Also, make sure you test it with all 8 screws in place... that's a requirement for the proper force to be applied. Lastly, as for the eSteps, it's 152.

@williamsteele So I go the physical part of it set up today and will start the gcode set tomorrow. My printer is running klipper. I was considering putting the gcode in a macro and just putting the call to the macro in the slicer tool change block. Am just asking for trouble 😀 If so, I will just follow the instructions as they are in the basic video. One more question about using this in extruder mode. I can see how the extruder and the Chameleon can work syronized to push pull during the load and unload since that is all timed by the button push, but does the Chameleon disengaged for the printing so they are not fighting? I assume it does, but it just is not in the check out process.

@@thedunemaster Yes, as soon as the button press let's go, it moves to a different unused color.

Yep!

The Adventurer 5M and 5M Pro are fully supported by it already. There are mounts available on Printables for it and we have a profile configured.

@@williamsteele wow, great! so I will get one, where can I find that profile to see how it looks inside? ptfe tube is not going out from extruder while filament is retracting? also how Is it cutting filament to take it out from extruder? 🤔

Not at this time, however, I've never found a need for it.

How do you do what, specifically? The files are in the video's description along with the same PrusaSlicer profile.

You shouldn't need it on that extruder. We always recommend installing it without a cutter and decide later if you want it... But in 99% of cases, you don't need it really.

We actually had a Geetech a while back with two on it... it works just fine. In fact, you can use a single 3DChameleon and have 2 into each side of the Geetech.

Thanks, good to know.

There are plenty of rewinding spool holder options available. Here's one I showed a while back: th-cam.com/video/KjrGgBRkfsk/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygURM2RjaGFtZWxlb24gc3Bvb2w%3D

The system is universal and works on any printer, including the Snapmakers.

You never have to press the button... The printer does that when the GCode needs to change the color. It is fully automatic. Check out our videos of it printing.

We're not using Color Change GCode or M600, we're using the Tool Change GCode in the slicer.

Thank you. Cheers.@@williamsteele

We won't be releasing any details on the Mk4 until the RMRRF. As for being notified... be at RMRRF! ;-) Just remember, as we've stated previously, the Mk3 is the Mk4, just a firmware update and accessories (which are enabled through the firmware) are the only differences.

Yes... it works on both the X1 and the P1S.

You can always use a larger tube to do the same thing.

@@williamsteele I know. I only have standard ptfe tubes used for bowden drive. I installed some plastic washer what i had to cut to size. Didn't test it yet.

@@bukszpryt_I used the plastic washer that’s used for the thumbscrew and spring for tension. Works flawlessly

There is literally nothing I can do about the price of shipping. That's just what the companies charge these days.

Sorry - didn't want to blame you, William! I obviously know that.@@williamsteele

It works on all printers. This video shows exactly the installation. The only difference is the position of the extruder. Also, it's not a two color system, it's a four color system.

The system will do that normally, however, you need to make sure the purge material is compatible with it being a support. For example, you can't have PLA with a soluble support setting turned on, and vise versa. So, you really can only use the same type of supports as your printed parts.

I have no idea what you're talking about... we don't put ads in our videos. Are you talking about TH-cam? We don't control them.

I opened it up in Incognito Mode and ran it... it displayed a 3 minute ad, but you can skip it after 5 seconds. That's a TH-cam thing, we have no control over it.

Yes, it is universal and works on any printer.