3DChameleon BMG Clone Extruder Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มี.ค. 2021
- In this video I walk through a very simple fix for the main reason a BMG style extruder fails to load automatically from the 3D Chameleon. You'll need a razor blade, a small section of PTFE tube and your typical Allen key set to disassemble your extruder and install the PTFE to act as a spacer to keep the drive hobbed gears in alignment with each other.
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Two years ago you came out with the the perfect solution for my today's problem. Internet is really amazing.
an OEM that identified a problem with another companies equipment and provided an explanation AND a free solution?!
Great fix. I was challenging with a significant under-extrusion effect and now it works just perfect. In my case the gap was in the opposite side checking with the filament free position.
Thank you soooooo much! This was doing this on my flsun super racer!!!! Filament was jamming and breaking off and getting twisted…. And print quality went to poop. Did this hack and it prints perfect prints now….it too has the slip in that gear. Possibly better than factory now!!! Ty so much for the video… Brian
You beautiful man! I just had this issue tonight and you have saved me countless hours troubleshooting tomorrow!!!!
Thanks for this tip. Did it to 2 clones I have. Have only tested 1 so far. It's currently printing TPU perfectly fine. Was able to get pla to load fine as well.
I just started scratching my head as to what was going on with mine, then found this so thank you!
I also aligned white gear closer to housing to reduce play of that shaft and lever had play as well. Now it is really good.
I dont know if original has tighter tolerances and no play.
Great fix, had no idea this could be an issue
I appreciate the effort. They're very hit and miss these extruders. The first one I had worked fine latest months until the gears got messed up. The new one I have has this issue but I can't resolve it. It's frustrating
Thanks, this fixed my problem.
I didn't actually do this fix, but it was simple: the grub screw on the drive gear was loose so it was freely spinning. I tightened it.
I have exactly this problem and I was going to try putting a washer in when I saw how the toothed wheel moved from side to side. I'm pretty pleased that my solution from looking in the extruder and working it out was the same as the experts. Its such a fucking hit and miss buying cloned stuff. I would happily buy original more often but the main problem is finding original manufacturers goods, if indeed they are still made.
Matterhackers has them.
@@bleach_drink_me thanks but I have a condition which makes it difficult to use that store. It’s called impatient Australian syndrome.
The real ones are like $130 right now :(
I love this fix idea.
Out of the box I had 1mm space there almost 2 . I cut spring and placed there now works perfect
FUCKING THANK YOU!!!
+1
Simple and effective
I have this extruder(not clone) and was having extrusion issues. I removed the idler gear and replaced it with a bearing and the problems went away. This happened on my Prusa Mk3s as well. not a fan of dual drive extruders.
That being said, Using proper sized shims you can really set it so it never moves again.
I had the same problem, drive wheels not lining up. I used another solution, the lever itself has also so much space on top so I put the "washer" under the lever on it's shaft. Now the drive wheels do not line up 100%, maybe 75% but it is more than enough so that the "free" drive wheel is taken up by the filament that is inserted.
I bet that back and forth action has something to do with the complaints about these on amazon. I might grab one of these now. There's a 2.0 clone too that has some corrections made to the filament path.
I got the exact same one on amazon, and while some of the negative reviews are a little off putting, I thought for a 1/3 of the original I give it a go. It seems to work fine for me, even before the shaft has a little spacer.
That seems like a terrible design flaw. I have the same extruder and it randomly jams. When it does it's game over for the print, since it can't "unjam". I will try this fix, hopefully it helps
i have a different issue with my clone extruder... it makes tick noises when retracting quickly.. it seems as if the big gear driven by the stepper has a little bit of backlash, and i think thats whats causing it ... :/
disable stealthchop and see if the noise is still there
i bought a transparent g clone and i installed it on ender 3 with bowden setup why during retraction it makes a very loud sound
You need to look at it and watch what is moving if it is making noises... I don't really have enough information to help you, but none of them that I have make loud noises.
The loud noise on our BMG clone was at high-ish speeds with a 380mm bowden tube @ 5mm retraction. Turned out it was the set-screw that was loose, grinding away at the shaft through the white gear. Very common problem on these BMG clones. Once I fully seated it, and added lock-tight, noise went completely away.
Wow, mine wasn't assembled correctly... I only have one of those bearings in mine >:(
No mention of how those wee needle bearings.... Badly Chew up the Not Hardened Axle AND the insides oif the also unhardened Gear.
Haven't had that issue at all.
I tried this, the ptfe tube just slides inside the gear, and it still slides back and fourth, just over the ptfe tube. What am I missing here? It's like the ptfe tube diameter isn't wide enough to cover the side. I cut about 2mm, cut a slit like you, slide it on next to it, then when I mount it, the gear slides over the ptfe, the same way it does the bearings and I have the same issue as before. Any ideas?
Perhaps the diameter of the shaft is smaller... if that's the case, you can use a washer or cut a piece of plastic sheet and place it in between the ptfe and the gear, which will stop it. You can also use a larger diameter piece of tubing if you have some.
@@3d_chameleon I was thinking about using a washer, but relatively new to 3D printing so didn't want to mess it up. I'll look and see if I can find a plastic washer, if not I like the plastic sheet! Thanks for the quick reply, damn printer sounds like a phone vibrating extra loud on every retraction, very loud.
PTFE tubing comes in at least 3 diameters that I know of Only the largest diameter works.
Hi! I just purchased an MK2 4 color and was wondering what you suggest to use for holding all of the different spools?
The best thing is a RepBox... but I also just use cheap acrylic spool holders from Microcenter.
I have one of these and there is a plastic washer in the bad that I was wondering what it was for. Maybe that’s why it’s in there.
Oh... that's a new thing then.
@@williamsteele As far as I am aware, hte black washer is to go on the thumb screw to stop the spring pushing into the hole on the arm, I have the Haldis model and the gear does not slide around
Ended up using that washer for mine as it fit just perfectly as the bowden tube was slipping under the collar of the gear and not helping with keeping it in place. Planning on just printing a little wafer as it seems to be for the spring as @AndrewAHayes has said.
I got one this week, unfortunately, even after checking this, the extruder still doesn't load my fillament, it just slides in it.
does it just affect the crappy knock off's of an original product?
I haven't had a chance to test the real thing. But I've only seen it effect some of the knock offs, not all.
Interesting I have a pukka bmg on my homebuilt mendel will take a look
Just tried that.
The hole in the gear is big enough to fit ptfe washer inside it, so it can still movewhen washer gets inside with bearings
You can always use a larger tube to do the same thing.
@@williamsteele I know. I only have standard ptfe tubes used for bowden drive.
I installed some plastic washer what i had to cut to size. Didn't test it yet.
@@bukszpryt_I used the plastic washer that’s used for the thumbscrew and spring for tension. Works flawlessly
what is the bearing in this video?
Hmmm... not sure what you're asking. The bearings are inside the gear... the PTFE tube was just used as a spacer.
@@williamsteele My bad, it was 3am for my timezone and I was frasturated. While doing this mod, I droped one of the bearings. I couldn't find it.
I was asking what is the name/type of the bearing. Thanks!
Needle bearing... i think
No need to fix that as it self align when you push filament through (at least in better quality clones like trianglelab)
It won't self align in these cases... The alignment is more than the diameter of the filament off in some cases. This really causes issues for autoloading filament.
Trianglelab being 'Better' quality is Pure Advert Nonsense.
Their Stuff is every bit as crap as most All other Aliexpress vendors..
They just Charge More on their 'better' pretense.
Have you noticed.. Yet!? that the Cheap Chinese Cloners use a Mild steel shaft for that gear?
It quickly wears... creating grinding paste which destroys the bearings as well as the shaft! Go.. China !
A dead CDRom drive has a pair of Quality 3mm Slider rods these make for Good shaft replacement donors.
Best to fit to a New BMG Clone though as fresh hardened shafts won't be much use in a chewed up gear ./bearing assly.
I have the Haldis clone which has much better quality steel gears than the really cheap clones, I also have a genuine Bondtech extruder and the gears on that are very much like the ones on the Haldis, they could be genuine Bondtech gears.
Bad solution. The ptfe tubing gets into it and created friction. @3:55 it clearly doesn’t spin freely anymore, you might as well take out the bearing...
Did this happen to you or is your comment a observation? I have done this fix, wandering if I may have problem later..
It does spin just fine... and it's been working for months just fine. When I spun it, I wasn't trying to spin it freely, I was using side to side pressure to show that it doesn't move as far as it did, which was causing the alignment issue. The PTFE tube is only contacting the center ring of the bearing, so it's not impinging on anything that rotates.