We do have printing videos... Check out our other videos in our channel. This particular series focus on how it's installed... We will soon have videos of how the software is configured and how to start a print.
@@3d_chameleonI’m following you a while and want to get one for my p1p. My only concern is how to paint and use this with Bambu studio. Can you make a video about that? Thank you.
The 3DChameleon can be mounted anywhere... This is just using the original mount... Others have it on the side of the printer. The idea here is that it is now mounted outside of the Bambu printer to allow it to remain fully enclosed.
Question: Does this work with the Bambu Labs P1S? Also, is it compatible with the Bambu Labs AMS system as an alternative to add more 4 spools of filament to your 3d printer?
Yes, the same installation works on any of the Bambu X or P series. It's possible (but not recommended) to use both on the same machine... the gcode is extremely difficult for those that don't understand it.
So it looks and sounds cool. But I need to see how and what the retraction looks like I’m like 2-4 colors. I’m not a believer yet cause how is that gonna work specifically on the x1c. I hope you understand my concern.
Yes, but you need to make sure it uses the highest temperatures during the change as possible... to insure a good flush of the nozzle of any colder filaments.
Does this impact filament change speed compared to the earlier configuration? In a comment on your P1P video, you mentioned that moving the adapter would slow things down considerably due to the longer filament travel, so I wasn't sure if the part in your description about maintaining printing speed was addressing something different.
Using the Stealth mode install does slow it down... simply due to the longer distance that the filament needs to travel... however, it's still faster than the AMS. With the Y right at the hot end, you can expect a 33-50% faster print over the stock AMS... with the Stealth install on the back, it's only about 10% faster. As an example, a rocket that was 5" tall with 4 colors per layer took 29 hours with the AMS, 17 with the Y at the hot end and 26 with the Stealth installation.
How are you routing the wires for the switch? From the video it disappears around the back of the switch to the left and then comes out above the poop chute. Did you have to remove the panels? I have a P1S that I am currently installing on.
Is it possible to stack the units to get more colors? For example, you have one unit that is directly connect to the printer per the standard design, and instead of having the individual tubes being routed to a filament spool, would it be possible to stack them with four more units off of each one of the Bowden tubes, effectively allowing you to print in up to sixteen colors. In that case you may be able to stack even more of them together to get up to 64 or more colors. Just a thought but would love to know. Currently I am running a 12 color ERCF on two of my Voron V2.4s, a 9 color ERCF on two more of my Voron V2.4s, and a 6 color ERCF on my custom 800mm tall Voron V2.4. I would love an alternative MMU for some of the other printer types that I have like my V0.1/2s, Mercury, Positron V3. This looks like an ideal option.
We've always had the ability to daisy chain up to 8 units together for up to 32 colors... however, with our most recent firmware (3.1) we now support an unlimited amount of chaining. When you purchase multiple units from us, just let us know and we'll include the extra adapters in the kits for your particular setup needs.
I would add that the Y adapter being at the hot end has no performance or visible artifacts in the print... the hot end resonance testing before the print eliminates anything that it might add. If someone is doubtful of that (or simply doesn't believe the math) then they can simply slow down the outer layer of the print to hide anything that might result... and you'd still get a much faster print... as that outer layer, slowed by 50% will still give you a 18 hour print compared to the 17 of the fastest setup.
As Eric Wolfe-Schulte asked, what is the comparison to the AMS filament retraction vs the 3D Chameleon? Is the waste the same or similar? I have not watched all of your videos, but do you have a system that is setup on a Rat Rig?
So, our unit is more flexible… as stated in my response to him, it’s optimized out of the box a little better… but it’s nothing they can’t do themselves… or in fact, users if they want to. I’ve never used a RatRag… but this system works with any printer, so it should be a similar installation.
@@3d_chameleon Thanks for the answer. I will order one, but want to spend more tine in understanding the system. I think I saw a video where this can be interfaced to either the Pi or the printer control board. I'm using a BTT Octopus with extra unused drivers. Now I'm in the process of converting the extruder and hotend to a new system, - want to get them working first. I think the Rat Rig and Voron community would be a good market for this, as most people have a large investment in their printers and are open to a reasonable priced system to allow for filament changes.
@@3d_chameleon I placed my order for a system, will get it into the upgrade Que. You will be hearing from me. I wish I was going to the Rocky Mountain festival, see that you will be there.
Purging amount is purely a strategy of the software… we do back out the filament further than they do, which will naturally do that by default… but there is nothing to prevent them (or you) from doing the same optimization. We also purge less into the waste chute… but again that is an optimization anyone can do.
Well, right off the bat, you can use this on any printer, not just the X1C. Secondly, I've had an atrocious time with getting certain rolls to work in the AMS (not to mention, that large / odd-sized rolls are just out of the question).
![fellow fellow - พรุ่งนี้ไม่มีใครรู้ feat. INK WARUNTORN [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QP6JyjYx_W0/mqdefault.jpg)
I love that in all of your videos you just show it hooked up and not running.
We do have printing videos... Check out our other videos in our channel. This particular series focus on how it's installed... We will soon have videos of how the software is configured and how to start a print.
th-cam.com/video/VQMLY7I9c-s/w-d-xo.html
@@3d_chameleonI’m following you a while and want to get one for my p1p. My only concern is how to paint and use this with Bambu studio. Can you make a video about that? Thank you.
@@PhucNguyen-lg4vy Did you end up doing this?
@@PhucNguyen-lg4vy It's the same as how to paint with PrusaSlicer... which we do have a video of.
looks absolutely sick, need this for my qidi x plus 3
That PTFE tube path is a absolute nightmare lmao.
The 3DChameleon can be mounted anywhere... This is just using the original mount... Others have it on the side of the printer. The idea here is that it is now mounted outside of the Bambu printer to allow it to remain fully enclosed.
Heck yeah !!
Sharing this to my 3d printing group if ya dont mind.
Its publicly available on TH-cam, and the exposure helps creators. Share away!
Can this be stealth with a bamboo lab P1S?
Do you have a link to the Stealth switch mount? i cant find it, and dont see it on the printables page for the P1P and X1C mount. Thank you.
It's on the Printables page for the X1/P1 series installations. All the mounts are there.
Question: Does this work with the Bambu Labs P1S? Also, is it compatible with the Bambu Labs AMS system as an alternative to add more 4 spools of filament to your 3d printer?
Yes, the same installation works on any of the Bambu X or P series. It's possible (but not recommended) to use both on the same machine... the gcode is extremely difficult for those that don't understand it.
I think ill need to buy QIDI XMAX 3 to do this on
So it looks and sounds cool. But I need to see how and what the retraction looks like I’m like 2-4 colors. I’m not a believer yet cause how is that gonna work specifically on the x1c. I hope you understand my concern.
Sorry, I don't understand your comment. Did you see the video of it printing? Check out my other videos.
Is this the switch mount where we us 3M VHB double sided tape?
Yes... it works on both the X1 and the P1S.
Does this addon harware can be bought? And is capable shipping to south korea?.... please?
And dose it okay to swap different filaments that requires different temperature?
Yes, but you need to make sure it uses the highest temperatures during the change as possible... to insure a good flush of the nozzle of any colder filaments.
Does this impact filament change speed compared to the earlier configuration? In a comment on your P1P video, you mentioned that moving the adapter would slow things down considerably due to the longer filament travel, so I wasn't sure if the part in your description about maintaining printing speed was addressing something different.
Using the Stealth mode install does slow it down... simply due to the longer distance that the filament needs to travel... however, it's still faster than the AMS.
With the Y right at the hot end, you can expect a 33-50% faster print over the stock AMS... with the Stealth install on the back, it's only about 10% faster.
As an example, a rocket that was 5" tall with 4 colors per layer took 29 hours with the AMS, 17 with the Y at the hot end and 26 with the Stealth installation.
How are you routing the wires for the switch? From the video it disappears around the back of the switch to the left and then comes out above the poop chute. Did you have to remove the panels? I have a P1S that I am currently installing on.
If you remove (or just loosen) the back panel, there is a nice clear path for it to go inside and route to the slot where you adjust the tension.
Is it possible to stack the units to get more colors? For example, you have one unit that is directly connect to the printer per the standard design, and instead of having the individual tubes being routed to a filament spool, would it be possible to stack them with four more units off of each one of the Bowden tubes, effectively allowing you to print in up to sixteen colors. In that case you may be able to stack even more of them together to get up to 64 or more colors. Just a thought but would love to know. Currently I am running a 12 color ERCF on two of my Voron V2.4s, a 9 color ERCF on two more of my Voron V2.4s, and a 6 color ERCF on my custom 800mm tall Voron V2.4. I would love an alternative MMU for some of the other printer types that I have like my V0.1/2s, Mercury, Positron V3. This looks like an ideal option.
We've always had the ability to daisy chain up to 8 units together for up to 32 colors... however, with our most recent firmware (3.1) we now support an unlimited amount of chaining. When you purchase multiple units from us, just let us know and we'll include the extra adapters in the kits for your particular setup needs.
I would add that the Y adapter being at the hot end has no performance or visible artifacts in the print... the hot end resonance testing before the print eliminates anything that it might add. If someone is doubtful of that (or simply doesn't believe the math) then they can simply slow down the outer layer of the print to hide anything that might result... and you'd still get a much faster print... as that outer layer, slowed by 50% will still give you a 18 hour print compared to the 17 of the fastest setup.
@@3d_chameleon I will email you from the link on the website, and set up a purchase with you so I get all of the correct adapters.
Link for the stls please, not on Printables
www.printables.com/model/352274-3dchameleon-mounts-for-the-bambulabs-x1c-and-the-p/files
So would the P1S be the X1 stealth file
@@seangholland3055 Yes... you will need some 3M VHB tape to attach it in the correct location.
As Eric Wolfe-Schulte asked, what is the comparison to the AMS filament retraction vs the 3D Chameleon? Is the waste the same or similar? I have not watched all of your videos, but do you have a system that is setup on a Rat Rig?
So, our unit is more flexible… as stated in my response to him, it’s optimized out of the box a little better… but it’s nothing they can’t do themselves… or in fact, users if they want to. I’ve never used a RatRag… but this system works with any printer, so it should be a similar installation.
@@3d_chameleon Thanks for the answer. I will order one, but want to spend more tine in understanding the system. I think I saw a video where this can be interfaced to either the Pi or the printer control board. I'm using a BTT Octopus with extra unused drivers. Now I'm in the process of converting the extruder and hotend to a new system, - want to get them working first. I think the Rat Rig and Voron community would be a good market for this, as most people have a large investment in their printers and are open to a reasonable priced system to allow for filament changes.
@@3d_chameleon I placed my order for a system, will get it into the upgrade Que. You will be hearing from me. I wish I was going to the Rocky Mountain festival, see that you will be there.
Is this done with the 3rd mode? Or is there a way I can modify the firmware to do this?
Yes, it is done with Mode 3 of our new Mk3.1 Firmware. We have upgrade instructions in the forum on our website.
Less filament waste than the AMS?
Purging amount is purely a strategy of the software… we do back out the filament further than they do, which will naturally do that by default… but there is nothing to prevent them (or you) from doing the same optimization. We also purge less into the waste chute… but again that is an optimization anyone can do.
This is better than the AMS, how? 🤓
It's cheaper and faster.
@KFC Managers Have you seen it? Have you seen how unreliable the AMS is feeding filaments after a little use?
Well, right off the bat, you can use this on any printer, not just the X1C. Secondly, I've had an atrocious time with getting certain rolls to work in the AMS (not to mention, that large / odd-sized rolls are just out of the question).