As stated by your website, the international postage is very very expensive with more than 25% product price. Would you consider a print it your self version, where you send your electronics board and the green merger (as DRM) via airbubble mail letters and some cardboard including a self source parts list and the stls? Simply so that we can safe a lot of money on postage, import customs and taxes? Edit: added the green merger, since i guess this requires a resin printer.
It's a lot more complex than that... the STLs are the product... so we can't share them. Most of the other items are available from other sources, but we were very selective in which parts and which suppliers to use... a lot of common parts look similar but will just give you trouble and that would reflect bad on us. We've spent nearly two years developing this solution and need to maintain our design (and margins) to make it a sustainable business. Future plans include distributors in other parts of the world to avoid those taxes/fees.
It's a lot more complex than that... the STLs are the product... so we can't share them. Most of the other items are available from other sources, but we were very selective in which parts and which suppliers to use... a lot of common parts look similar but will just give you trouble and that would reflect bad on us. We've spent nearly two years developing this solution and need to maintain our design (and margins) to make it a sustainable business. Future plans include distributors in other parts of the world to avoid those taxes/fees.
I noticed on this printer you have the print head bumping the switch. In you other video you had the bed bumping the switch. What is the reason for the different location. Do you have any recent videos of the set up and printing on the Ender 3 or Ender 3 Max or a bowden type extruder?
The reason for the different locations is simply due to the configuration of the printer. On some it's easier to install it on the Y axis... others, the X axis. It's really open and the software doesn't really care. As for recent videos... keep checking our TH-cam channel... we have several different printers out there, including the Ender 3 style machines.
It's a lot faster than you doing it for every color change manually. Especially if your print is running overnight. Way more convenient than waking up every few minutes to swap the filament.
What can be done to avoid the filament getting tangled or hung up on something when the filament is extracted? I seen the ERCF group has some designs to recoil that filament Just curious... Thanks
There are plenty of rewinding spool holder options available. Here's one I showed a while back: th-cam.com/video/KjrGgBRkfsk/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygURM2RjaGFtZWxlb24gc3Bvb2w%3D
here is a question, I want to print multi-color, I am intrigued by the stand alone/any machine nature of your system. The question I have is this; when the slicer gives you an estimate of the time it will take to print something, does your device/system change it?
Estimates from the various slicers vary widely without adding any of our code, however, PrusaSlicer does the best that I can tell. As long as their estimators take into account all the gcode commands, then they will be accurate, as all of our code is pure gcode, so there is no magic to make it not be detectable. If the slicer is accurate, before, then generally it'll be accurate after it.
I know your website states that the Chameleon works on ANY printer but I have a super entry level printer, a Monoprice Mini Select v2. Can I use Chameleon on it?
Yep... it'll install on the Mini pretty much exactly the same way as it does on an Ender 3... just print our PTFE adapter for the extruder (www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708799). Optionally, you can hang the 3D Chameleon on the side where the current spool holder is.
Will I be able to install a standard 3d chameleon kit on my ender 3 pro with SKR V1.2? Also, I'm horrible at firmware stuff so will I need to modify firmware
its a self contained unit, which is controlled by a switch. This switch is to be triggered by one of your axes. It can use the extruder stepper of your existing printer to move the filament. Edit: but it can also have a separate stepper controlled by the unit to feed the filament to the machines extruder.
There are two ways to install it: 1) As a loader/unloader to your existing extruder... in this case, it's completely stand alone like you see in this video. 2) As an extruder replacement... in which case, we use your stock extruder motor to drive the 3D Chameleon... which technically uses your stock driver... but we don't unplug or modify it in any way. We simply use it as is to drive the filament just as your stock machine would. In this mode, we do set the esteps to 152/mm to match our Mk8 drive gear.
@@3d_chameleon Can you use it stand-alone style with an ender 3 and stock bowden setup? that would make install so much easier plus possibly move between machines like move to my CR10 for larger prints.
@@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 Sure... we have an adapter to allow the PTFE connector to feed directly into the stock extruder. See it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708799
@@williamsteele I bought the 4 color version a while back and it came with 4 steppers/extruders. The one on this system looks like 2 steppers with one extruder extruding 4 colors?
I’m ordering mine tomorrow I’m so excited
As stated by your website, the international postage is very very expensive with more than 25% product price.
Would you consider a print it your self version, where you send your electronics board and the green merger (as DRM) via airbubble mail letters and some cardboard including a self source parts list and the stls?
Simply so that we can safe a lot of money on postage, import customs and taxes?
Edit: added the green merger, since i guess this requires a resin printer.
It's a lot more complex than that... the STLs are the product... so we can't share them. Most of the other items are available from other sources, but we were very selective in which parts and which suppliers to use... a lot of common parts look similar but will just give you trouble and that would reflect bad on us. We've spent nearly two years developing this solution and need to maintain our design (and margins) to make it a sustainable business. Future plans include distributors in other parts of the world to avoid those taxes/fees.
It's a lot more complex than that... the STLs are the product... so we can't share them. Most of the other items are available from other sources, but we were very selective in which parts and which suppliers to use... a lot of common parts look similar but will just give you trouble and that would reflect bad on us. We've spent nearly two years developing this solution and need to maintain our design (and margins) to make it a sustainable business. Future plans include distributors in other parts of the world to avoid those taxes/fees.
@@williamsteele Thank you for that explanation. :)
I noticed on this printer you have the print head bumping the switch. In you other video you had the bed bumping the switch. What is the reason for the different location. Do you have any recent videos of the set up and printing on the Ender 3 or Ender 3 Max or a bowden type extruder?
The reason for the different locations is simply due to the configuration of the printer. On some it's easier to install it on the Y axis... others, the X axis. It's really open and the software doesn't really care. As for recent videos... keep checking our TH-cam channel... we have several different printers out there, including the Ender 3 style machines.
Never have I not wanted a product so much. Looks like a slow nightmare.
It's a lot faster than you doing it for every color change manually. Especially if your print is running overnight. Way more convenient than waking up every few minutes to swap the filament.
What can be done to avoid the filament getting tangled or hung up on something when the filament is extracted?
I seen the ERCF group has some designs to recoil that filament
Just curious...
Thanks
There are plenty of rewinding spool holder options available. Here's one I showed a while back: th-cam.com/video/KjrGgBRkfsk/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygURM2RjaGFtZWxlb24gc3Bvb2w%3D
here is a question, I want to print multi-color, I am intrigued by the stand alone/any machine nature of your system. The question I have is this; when the slicer gives you an estimate of the time it will take to print something, does your device/system change it?
Estimates from the various slicers vary widely without adding any of our code, however, PrusaSlicer does the best that I can tell. As long as their estimators take into account all the gcode commands, then they will be accurate, as all of our code is pure gcode, so there is no magic to make it not be detectable. If the slicer is accurate, before, then generally it'll be accurate after it.
theoretically what is the max amount of these you could have?
32 colors.
I know your website states that the Chameleon works on ANY printer but I have a super entry level printer, a Monoprice Mini Select v2. Can I use Chameleon on it?
Yep... it'll install on the Mini pretty much exactly the same way as it does on an Ender 3... just print our PTFE adapter for the extruder (www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708799). Optionally, you can hang the 3D Chameleon on the side where the current spool holder is.
@@williamsteele thank you!
Will I be able to install a standard 3d chameleon kit on my ender 3 pro with SKR V1.2? Also, I'm horrible at firmware stuff so will I need to modify firmware
There are no modifications necessary to your electronics or firmware to use the 3D Chameleon.
I tried reaching out to you via the Info email on your site but got no reply. How best can I reach you
bill or info @ 3d chameleon . com??? I don't see an email from you.
@@williamsteele You will have another in 5 mins :)
15 minutes per layer, yikes.
That's all dependent on the layer size... There are 4 colors per layer. So naturally the time will be longer than a single color.
Does the Chameleon use a driver from my board, or is a self contained unit?
its a self contained unit, which is controlled by a switch. This switch is to be triggered by one of your axes.
It can use the extruder stepper of your existing printer to move the filament.
Edit: but it can also have a separate stepper controlled by the unit to feed the filament to the machines extruder.
There are two ways to install it:
1) As a loader/unloader to your existing extruder... in this case, it's completely stand alone like you see in this video.
2) As an extruder replacement... in which case, we use your stock extruder motor to drive the 3D Chameleon... which technically uses your stock driver... but we don't unplug or modify it in any way. We simply use it as is to drive the filament just as your stock machine would. In this mode, we do set the esteps to 152/mm to match our Mk8 drive gear.
@@3d_chameleon Can you use it stand-alone style with an ender 3 and stock bowden setup? that would make install so much easier plus possibly move between machines like move to my CR10 for larger prints.
@@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 Sure... we have an adapter to allow the PTFE connector to feed directly into the stock extruder. See it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708799
Hey Bill, what is the device on top that is feeding the filament?
That's the 3D Chameleon itself.
@@williamsteele I bought the 4 color version a while back and it came with 4 steppers/extruders. The one on this system looks like 2 steppers with one extruder extruding 4 colors?
Oh OK it is new style :) Looks much better!
@@thensley72 Did you ever get it working?