START HERE: 3D Chameleon Mk2, Mk3 and Mk4 Basic Installation
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2024
- Follow this quick guide to install your 3D Chameleon Mk2, Mk3 or Mk4 on to your printer. The basic steps are outlined in this video.
Check out our Thingiverse page for the downloads used in it: www.thingiverse.com/search?q=...
Finally, follow this video on how to set up the GCode Generator from our website here: www.3dchameleon.com/mk3-gcode...
Please note, this video covers the Mk2, the Mk3 and the new Mk4 installation process. The firmware portion and testing in this video only covers the Mk2... to test the latest Mk4 version, please watch the 2nd video in this list here: • 3DChameleon Mk3 New Fi... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Super Excited to install mine, I just got a brand new ender 3 V2 and my Chameleon arrived 2 days ago. Super excited to try and install it.
Saw this in person at RMRRF. So cool to get an in person explanation. Thank you very much! I look forward to ordering one soon!
Just ordered mine yesterday. I’m excited to try it out
We just got ours the other day and I have yet to install it. I am very excited!
I love how homebrew the switch interface is. Definitely getting this over the prusa mmu
Got mine back in July just had enough time to set it up now while on vacation.. this video is just perfect timing. Excited for the tips and tricks video next!
Gotta love T-nuts. So incredibly simple and useful but a pain to install
Very cool system
I was already able to buy it, my bad currency selection on Paypal, now I have to wait for it to arrive
6:40 Shows the "Switch" already connected to the 3DC mcu box. Which orientation should the 3 pin dupont connector be inserted into the 3DC mcu? Maybe it doesn't matter? Just tried, in one orientation there's no motion, also, nothing seems to have exploded/shorted so that's nice. In the correct orientation, the 1 second switch to filament 1 results in steppers doing their thing.
The green connector is to the outside of the case, and the red is towards the center of the case.
Thank you @@williamsteele ! Just noticed you mentioned "green wire towards the corner" at 21:58. Cheers!
Just installed mine on my ender3 pro
I have the creality aluminium extruder upgrade and found the screw that goes through the arm is too short. If you use the spacer from the original extruder it does fit. Also, i had to rotate my extruder 90° because the connector doesn't fit next to z-axis leadscrew.
Yep, on a lot of the new Ender 3 machines, like the Ender 3 V2, we also found that you need to rotate it 90 degrees. Good call on the metal extruder with the spacer... I'll add that to the suggested fixes.
Is there any way this would work on the Prusa MK4? Would be an interesting alternative to the MMU3
It already does. We posted videos of it a while back. The mounts and the profile are on Printables.
I got the sprite pro extruder, will this work on it and still have the direct extruder working?
Sure... we have a Sprite adapter on Printables.
I am VERY interested in getting this. I wanted to ask how this would attach to a Creality Ender 5 Plus with an ExoSlide and a Microswiss direct drive? I hope it can pair up to my printer!!!
I have videos of the Ender 5 (classic) and it would attach very similar... however, with the direct drive then the Y would be right at the extruder. The only thing you need to verify is that your extruder can load the filament from the menu's without intervention other than presenting the filament to the extruder... if you can do that, then the 3D Chameleon can also do that. (You'll need to add a PTFE tube as the input.)
One other thing... some of the Microswiss DD extruders have a nice gap between the extruder and the hot end... if yours has that, then it's the perfect place to put the 3DClippy filament cutter. That would allow it to cut the filament off and leave it in the hotend instead of trying to shape the tip. Make for very fast color changes... and increases the reliability significantly.
@@williamsteele I am feeding the Microswiss DD extruder the same way the original extruder fed the hot end. I removed the original extruder and stepper motor, leaving just the extruder's base attached to the frame. The filament still feeds into the original extruder's base the same way it used to, and then goes into a Capricorn tube, which reaches out to the new Microswiss DD. My MS DD does have a gap between the extruder and the hot end, but they included a short length of Capricorn tube that they said, had to be used. I don't know how true that is, but I did install it. I hope all that makes sense to you.
Hello, thank you for the video. My Home is not set to 0 so do I still take the measurement from 0 or do I start from home and use that distance? My switch is on the X axis.
Just set it to the value that the switch triggers at... Which should always be referenced from zero... Even if your printer homes to a value like -5, you just use the LCD and move it to the + value displayed. An example, printer homes to -5, but you moved to X = +100... Printer actually moved 105 but you still tell our code it was at X of 100.
@@williamsteele thank you! I figured I was over thinking it. Now to get this slicing figured out.
I have a Mk 1 I'm trying to install. Are there any installation guides for that?
You can see the list here: th-cam.com/video/p4jfScDKSig/w-d-xo.html
Make sure to bookmark it as it's not a visible channel, but all the old Mk1 videos are there.
this is insane, when is mk4?
I have a prusa mini, and have downloaded the mounts. I have followed the instructions, but it simply says hook up the wiring!
Like how? Instructions say to use the prusas extruder, with the power box how do I connect it to the chameleon, will I only need to connect one pin?
The Prusa Mini hooks up the same, except you simply use the stock extruder motor instead of ours. Just remove our Extruder motor from the 3D Chameleon, transfer the two hobbed drive gears to the Prusa Mini's stock motor and insert it back into the same place ours was. The other motor (the Selector) and the limit switch hook up identically as they way they shipped. Make sure to also transfer the spacer to the stock motor so the 30mm screws can still be used.
@@williamsteele thanks so much, and such a quick reply. This is what I did, but the clarification is what I need!
I'm not sure where I should be measuring from for g code generation. The chameleon feeds directly into the nozzle, for the mini. Do you have a rough estimate as to what this value should be so know where to measure from?
@@zekeahern199 Well, the Prusa Mini can't use the auto generated gcode... that's for the normal Load/Unload installation method. The Prusa Mini is using the Advanced Extruder Replacement method of installation. In it, you'll need to use our Prusa Mini profile and install the Post Processor on your computer. (The Prusa Mini profile is in the description of the PrusaSlicer video.)
See here for details: th-cam.com/play/PLs1jpNL7rg78Bm6cDAC4JwaUNlpFa6UEf.html
Is there mounts for Ender 6? Will the Ender 5 ones work the same
The mounts for pretty much any Ender or CR series machine are identical for the 3D Chameleon itself, however, the extruders PTFE couplers might differ. I'm not sure which extruder the E6 has, but we pretty much cover all of them in our connectors over on Thingiverse or Tinkercad.
Very cool. Anyone have experience to get this working on an Anycubic Vyper?
The Vyper is just a normal Ender 3 style clone... nothing fancy to install it... and it already has our recommended extruder, the BMG clone, on it.
Will this system work with an cr6 se? I have this machine and modded it to have a Pheatus Dragon High Flow hotend with orbiter v1.5 extruder in Direct Drive configuration. Thanks.
Yes, it will work just fine on your printer. The orbiter is a great extruder for it.
@@williamsteelefantastic. Will your guide show how to use with a Direct Drive system?
can this be instaled on a direct extruder like the on the ender 3 s1
Easily. It works on any printer.
Will it work with the Prusa MK3 and MK4 3D printers?
Yes, we have both profiles and mounts over on Printables.
Will this work on a elegoo neptune 4 max? if so how intensive is the install? can a noobie get this knocked out pretty quick? Also is it capable of printing in more then two colors?
It works on all printers. This video shows exactly the installation. The only difference is the position of the extruder. Also, it's not a two color system, it's a four color system.
might want to trim that ptfe tube down 50% that's way too long. i have the original two tube version and it came with a green thing that has four entry tubes. how does that work with two motors
Yep... We talk about in our final installation Tips/Tricks video which will be posted soon.
The new Mk2 design uses a selector motor and a drive motor... the selector drives a cam which engages each of the different colors depending on where it's rotated.
Hello.
Interesting unit.
Would this generated G-code be put within the M600 G-code.
Elegoo Neptune 4.
Elegoo has there own M600 G-code.
Generic open source Klipper M600 G-code does not work.
Cheers.
We're not using Color Change GCode or M600, we're using the Tool Change GCode in the slicer.
Thank you.
Cheers.@@williamsteele
would this be supported by Superslicer?
Sure, just use the PrusaSlicer settings in the GCode Generator.
Hi bill can I use this on the snapmaker j1s, cheers steve
The system is universal and works on any printer, including the Snapmakers.
Does this work with Anycubic Vyper?
It works on ANY printer.
Will this work on the Qidi X-Plus 3, or Max?
Yep, I have it installed on a X-Plus 3 already. We have mounts available for it on Tinkercad.
Hi. Will this work on a Creality Ender 3 S1 as it has a dual gear direct extruder which is different form previous Enders.
I have a couple on the way to test, but a real simple test to confirm if it does is if there is a way to load the filament via the menu without needing to manually move, unlock or unscrew anything. If you can simply insert the filament and it can pull it in, then it will 100% work.
I might add, we already know it works with extruders like the Prusa Mk3, BMG and Bondtech which are all dual gear drive extruders.
@@williamsteele That's good to know. I am quite keen on purchasing the 3D Chameleon but the mounting is also an issue since the Ender 3 S1 extruder has not been tested so far. Will wait for your results on it.
Any updates on the Ender 3 s1 extruders?
@@crocodilezzzz Yes... we posted a note a while back that it worked flawlessly with their new Spark extruder. No changes are necessary.
Does this work for Anycubic slice or should i move to Cura?
We currently support PrusaSlicer, or any of it's forks, like OrcaSlicer and BambuStudio. Cura is not supported due to a bug they have supporting more than 2 colors. I'm not familiar with Anycubic's slicer... if it's based on PrusaSlicer, it should work, but if it's based on Cura, it won't work. (It's not an issue with our code, we support it, it's actually due to a bug in Cura that prevents purging from working correctly and they "have determined not to fix since it doesn't effect [their] own printers".)
@@williamsteele I understand what you’re saying 100% that sucks anyway thank you so much for replying. I may have to move my slicing days to Prusa!
Will this be available in the UK?
We ship world wide already.
Do you end up losing any Y axis travel on this installation?
It really depends on where you put the Y switch. For example, in this printer, the maximum travel area is 215mm... but the switch is at 214mm... so it does... however, there are methods of installing it where you don't loose any travel. Most people find that loosing 1mm of travel isn't an issue, however.
I get that there are so many different machines and what to do for each may not be the same but I feel like there is a huge lack of instruction for someone new to this. I followed this video and have my stuff installed but then what. Theres not a video thats currect that shows what to do next. Surely the next step isnt just slice a file and send it. I mean how far down into the Y setup do you load each filament. How do you start getting filament down into the hotend? The video I've seen referenced on the site is at least 2 years old, it for a 2 color setup, and apparently a couple firmware editions old. I completely misunderstood what this system was when I purchased it. It doesnt seem to be for someone that is new to multi color but not new to printing.
This is just the first video in the playlist. Have you watched the other ones? Also, please always feel free to ask me questions.
@@williamsteele yes I have watched all of them in the playlist. Where should I contact you at? Email or FB messenger?
@@nathanreed3302 My email is included in the kit.
@@williamsteele This is my concern too. Ive watched through the playlist, as well as read through the forum. But as someone whos not super GCODE savvy, it is very daunting. I just received my MK3 and ready to install it, but still so confused on a lot of aspects. Theres phrases stated, like Direct mode vs Extruder mode, but then its not fully explained what the differences are, use cases, what is required/not required when going to a different method. Also the 3D Clippy, looks great, but then i struggle to find installation guide, not so much the physical installation, but the GCODE portion of it. I may have missed it in a video or the Forum, but theres a lot to disect and comb through to try and understand it for a novice. I posted my questions on the forum and hope to get some community assistance before i install it on my only machine. Thank you for the great product, it looks to be amazing, just hard to get it going with the struggle to find clear and concise direction.
@GenerlAce - Big War inc. There is no need to learn the gcode... the automatic gcode generator does all the work for you. Just follow the Basic Installation videos... the first 4 are all you need. First one, install the unit... second one, covers the new Mk3 commands, third one convers setting up PrusaSlicer for your printer and the fourth one covers the Automatic GCode Generator to customize the gcode for your printer. Every printer out there uses the same basic set up. The other topics are for advanced installations and are totally optional... for example, the advanced installation is the Extruder Replacement mode where you remove your stock extruder and allow the 3DChameleon to act as the extruder... but in the Basic mode, you leave your printer's stock extruder to do it's normal job. This allows for a much simpler installation at the trade off of a little speed... but also allows your printers existing functionality to work exactly as before, including all your currently sliced files and printing profiles. The advanced mode doesn't allow for that due to the drastic nature of all the changes. My recommendation is stick with the basic installation for now and when you get more comfortable with the process and maybe the gcode, try the other things.
will this be available in south africa
It's available now, we ship world wide.
I am setting up my 3D Chameleon. It seems to retract a little less than it loads each time. After I cycle through the colors a few times it will finally reach a point were it has not retracted far enough for the next color to load. After they crash it no longer knows where anything is. Is there a way to fix this. MK3 firmware in mode 2.
That's not a bug, it's by design. In Mode 2, we load 11" but only unload 10" because the extruder makes up for the rest. If you are testing by hand, it will walk up that way. In Mode 3, you need to adjust the timing to match your actual distances.
@williamsteele great thanks for the clarification. I guess that will get worked out in the gcode while printing. I haven't made it to my first color change. Fighting my offset the couple of times I tried. I have it loading the first color and trying to print.
@@thedunemasterJust let me know if you have any questions... I'm always here to help.
@@williamsteeleI am planning to get one mk3. Going to pair it with FLSun SR, and klipper. Is there any good documentation, forum post, or else to control the unit via GPIO? I would use klipper's output_pin with custom macros for T0 T1 T2 T3 commands instead of slicer settings (btw that's Orca). Am I on the right path or not?
Can the 3d chameleon be used on any 3d printer?
As long as you can control the GCode, yes.
I don't think this will work on my microswiss Direct drive. Filament has to be cut at angle before inserting. I see the Filament getting stuck. Any videos on that or need a tester lmk?
I've not had any issue with mine... Just make sure they're both spinning at loading time and reduce the tension enough for it to load, but still drive it.
@William Steele you have the micro swiss DD? Does this product cut the filament before at an angle? I want multicolored but not sure I want bambu
@@toshlarue Yes... and it doesn't need it cut at a 45... on mine, I don't cut it at all... just load it and go. The Tool Change GCode has a tip shaping section in it that forms the tip into a bullet shape.
@@toshlarue The 3DChameleon doesn't cut the filament, we've published another design called the 3DClippy that can cut the filament, don't confuse the two. The 3DChameleon uses the gcode to shape the tip... the 3DClippy can eliminate that step in the color changing process, but you need to implement that part yourself. As for us having the DD, yes, we do... and we don't need the tip at an angle to load it... it simply loads properly during the cycle when the tension is set correctly. If you need it at a 45, try lowering your tension settings... it'll still extrude fine, but will be easier to load. (Remember, in our case, both the extruder is already running and the 3DChameleon is pushing the filament into it... so they are not fighting each other... in fact, they're both pulling it into the PTFE tube.)
I might add, on the DD, the slot where the PTFE is located is the perfect place for the cutter, since it is closest to the hotend. The closer it is, the better.
Will this work with Flashforge 5M Pro? 🤔
The Adventurer 5M and 5M Pro are fully supported by it already. There are mounts available on Printables for it and we have a profile configured.
@@williamsteele wow, great! so I will get one, where can I find that profile to see how it looks inside? ptfe tube is not going out from extruder while filament is retracting? also how Is it cutting filament to take it out from extruder? 🤔
I would like to buy the 3D Chamelion but I have a Creality Sermoon D1 with Direct Drive.
I would need a lot of help
Look at our latest P1P installation video... your Sermoon would be nearly identical to it.
th-cam.com/video/-yPEFhnJVdI/w-d-xo.html
@@williamsteele its not the same. I dont have ptfe. Its a hard direct drive, filament goes directly throw the extruder
@@hugoramos496 Which direct drive do you have? All you're doing with the 3DChameleon is loading and unloading your existing extruder. Direct drives (like the Bambu, for example) work just fine with it.
@@williamsteele Single-gear direct drive extruder where the filament goes directly to the gear without any ptfe driving the filament
@@hugoramos496 In that case, you simply add the printable PC4-M10 adapter to it.
Would this work for Weefun Tina2?
Yes, we demonstrated it on that machine a while back... Worked pretty good.
Is possible instal this system in a Artillery Genius?
Yes, it's universal so it works with any printer. Your Genius uses the Titan style extruder... We have an adapter specifically for the PTFE feed tube to the extruder on Printables.
I wish it was that easy, "go to the g-code generator, paste it in and start printing". I tried and was never able to get it to print, the filament would stick or collide with another color that didn't properly retract. Also I have found no one other than Bill that has got the Chameleon to work. Bill is very good about responding to email but that just wasn't enough to get it printing. If you are planning to purchase, good luck.
If you're still having problems, let me know... I'm happy to help try and understand what is causing your issues, but if I don't know about them, I can't help.
Any pictures of your tips or videos of what is happening is always very helpful.
But what ever you do... If it doesn't work, please keep in contact.
@@3d_chameleon Thanks Bill. I'll try and tackle this and get it going after Christmas, maybe early next year.
@@stevelaminack1516 did you sort it ?
Hello from Argentina, I cannot make the payment through PayPal, is there another method? from Argentina you cannot pay with paypal
Will this work with the mini price select mini 2
Yes, it works on any printer.
@@williamsteele even direct drive printers
@@Bobfromwindows Sure, it works on any printer. I might add, the Select Mini 2 isn't a direct drive printer. You can see many examples of the various types of printers on Printables.
I’m just curious I Also run some ender 3v3s and I have been wanting to get into multicolor
I want to get the Creality k2 combo but I’m practically broke so I thought this would be a good alternative
Where are the videos of it actually working? Nothing on the website. And only one customer has posted a successful multi color print?
Actually, check out our channel... we have a few printing videos.
For example:
th-cam.com/video/EiGZUS0iNeQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/XNDYXfJqP4E/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/d33vuQChqYg/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Ju6mbDua8t0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/-mO8EjrR94w/w-d-xo.html
Just purchased exited to install on my anycubic Kobra Max, looks like install should be a breeze. Is there a way to set different extruder settings for each of the four filament settings?
Yep, the slicer already allows you to set different settings for each extruder. If you're interested in setting different tension settings for each extruder, you can also do that with our printable bearing carriers.
@@3d_chameleonawesome when you say "for each extruder" you are talking about the same extruder as the filament is fed/unfed through the same correct?
@@JakeMakesProductions No, it's each virtual extruder or color. Each one can have different settings and the system will adjust the one physical hot end to match those settings when the color is changed.
@@williamsteele I'm talking physical, not virtual. Just confirming I don't need additional extruders.
@@JakeMakesProductions Nope... You don't. 👍
Has anyone set this up on a JGMaker Magic?
Yes... you'll need to mount the switch on the right side end of the X axis and remove the white cover over the top to mount it, but otherwise, it's identical to this video.
@@williamsteele Thanks! Once I change out the hotend and the extruder I think the 3D Chamaeleon is going to be my next project.
Too bad the parts aren't different colors. Black on black doesn't😒 show up very well.
Shut
Paint them urself and shut up
Mk4 guide???
It's 100% identical to the Mk3.
@michaelhodgson2163
This might be what you're looking for