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Working on it now....thank you!

Thank you for the kind words and for watching!

If the skr mini supports diagnostic mode (a jumper needs to be set for each motor driver), and the stepper drivers support "Stallguard" (2209's do support stallguard), it should work just fine. However, I'm not sure what you mean by the "octupus firmware". Is this Octoprint or something else?

Which was the other video you are referring to?

Hopefully just your own.

I don't think pressure advance will fix this. The change should happen with the extruder multiplier. In super slicer, it's under filament settings and it's called "extrusion multiplier". I think that might be in the same location as Prusa Slicer.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Nope thats not a flow problem im not that stupid, probably some klipper setting cuz only if i print something very thin it does that, i kinda fixed it, but if i only print one wall thick the extruder kinda stutters.

Hmmmm. I was planning on purchasing metal GE5C bearings to see if I could find any performance differences. Thanks for this information. I now need to consider this more deeply. Thanks for watching!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop How are the ceramic bearings holding up? I have some on the way but maybe again will check before installing them and the blocks.

@@jchristensen2022 I've had no problems with them. Or at least not that I'm aware of. They have been working well.

I think so. But I will 1st create a video for the tool head modifications. Then I can completely configure Happy Hare. That said, the Happy hare instructions are pretty good in this area.

Yes, it is the same adapter 3d print

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Cool, thanks.

Thank you. I wish you a great build!

I wish you a fantastic build. Thanks!

I didn’t spend a lot of time in the video for the servo arm, but does it cover enough? The documentation for ERCF states that it should be mounted during calibration. But there really are no instructions, diagrams or photos to show it. The string of wired leds mount shining into the buffer. This didn’t seem super useful to me and I don’t expect to be ever looking at the back side either. I also used black filament, so it won’t let light through anyway. I decided to leave them off. If you ever find out where the single led mounts, please let me know!

Thank you for the kind comments!

Thank you!

Glad you enjoy it! Thank you for the nice comments and watching!

Thank you for the nice comments and watching!

This is a great hint. Thank you!

I have not noticed this. But thank you for posting this. I am going to check this shortly.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have cut a 5.3mm piece of PTFE Bowden tube and put it between the wheel and spacer, to kind of replicate the same size of the original printable 80t wheel. It has given me good guaranteed clearance. 👍

I'm going to purchase a can of this. Thank you!

This is a great idea! I will be using this. Thank you!

Thnk you for this tip. I did not realize that. I'll go and have another look.

I used ABS. I've had no trouble with this at all. It's been working great. I'll be releasing a video soon on a printer I have using this.

If you extruder keeps skipping, check the resistance in the filament path frm the spool to the tool head. You can also inscrease the current to the extruder motor. I don't think the 32 microsteps improve quality. But it will reduce motor torque...a possible cause for skipping?

While paused, I cut the filament at the top of the print head, feed in the other filament and then extrude from the klipper/mainsail control screen. When it’s ready, type in or push resume.

I am working on that video right now. It has taken longer than I expected. But it on the way.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Awesome thank you! I'm struggling to find all the documentation for everything so your videos have been super helpful. Much appreciated!

@@jeffrex6305 Sooon!

My servo seems to be running well. But due to recording, I'm not yet running filament through it yet. So I'm not sure the servo is running correctly.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop cant wait to see your video on the calibration. servo is working now which is good but my gear motor is not. cant wait to see your setting to see if i have something wrong.

I would not have considered it would be conductive. Thanks for posting this.

The v groove traps are what worked for me. I had planned on releasing the video for electronics and software by now, but it's going to take a few more days. But that and at least one more are on the way. Thank you for commenting and letting me know I wasn't the only one!

Sure. Here are all my cfg files: github.com/Kapman1/Kapman1 Thank you!

Thanks :) it turned out that I had a problem with the probe, poor conductivity between magnets

@@MrRoldak Interesting. I would not have guessed that. Thank you for posting this!

Neither. In this video, I used the Waveshare RS485 Canbus Hat. It attaches to the IO pins on the PI. I have a second video where I use the BTT U2C as well. Have a look at the video description where I have a link to the Waveshare RS485 Canbus Hat . Thank you!

Thank you!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop 😃I've been investigating linear rails (actually considered linear steppers in the rail - too $$), and was curious whether the you've noticed an improvement in surface quality (assuming you've competed you Voron build....) [;^)

@@truegret7778 I can't state that I've seen an improvment because this Voron always used rails. But I can state this printer (once tuned) prints better than any other non-rail printer I've had. I'm not sure thats a reasonable comparison. If your non-rail printer has good bearings and accurate wheels, it should print just as good.

I believe it would. The software for this uses Klipper, so assuming your K1 is using klipper and you have a spare USB port, it should work.

All Voron parts are designed for ABS, so don't take shrinkage into account, the designers already have. I did not use arachne when I built this printer because it did not exist. Today I would use it. It will probably look slightly better and no loss in strength. All Voron design build manuals/instructions have the settings you should use for printing at the beginning of the document. You should follow those details. However, if you are printing the parts for a v2.4 (for example), page 4 states this: PART PRINTING GUIDELINES The Voron Team has provided the following print guidelines for you to follow in order to have the best chance at success with your parts. There are often questions about substituting materials or changing printing standards, but we recommend you follow these: 3D PRINTING PROCESS: Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) INFILL TYPE: Grid, Gyroid, Honeycomb, Triangle or Cubic MATERIAL: ABS INFILL PERCENTAGE: Recommended: 40% LAYER HEIGHT: Recommended: 0.2mm WALL COUNT: Recommended: 4 EXTRUSION WIDTH Recommended: Forced 0.4mm SOLID TOP/BOTTOM LAYERS Recommended: 5 I hope that helps. And thank you for the great comments and watching!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the nice comments and for watching!

Do you have a "position_endstop:" that isn't commented in the [stepper_z] section of the printer.cfg file? It should be commented. After changing that, reboot and then try to save your calibration. It should appear at the end of the printer.cfg file in the section with the comment that you should not touch that area.

It has a # next to it & all green is that correct ? It seems when ever I adjust the AutoZ.cfg switch offset figure the end stop (or something ) adds or subtracts that adjustment so I gain no closer z (Trying to close the z to bed more ) ( I know the higher the figure of the switch_offset means closer to the bed ) & my bed mesh map is 6cm up in the air off the bed position_endstop = 0.680 But it would need another +6mm on it but I know putting it here isn’t right ??

@@adrianstealth340 Did you create a file called "auto_z" and set those parameters and include it at the top of your printer.cfg? Have a look here at my files at the time: github.com/Kapman1/Kapman1 Look at the "switch_offset" setting in the auto_z.cfg (or whatever you might have called that file.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop hi yes I have that file in place , I’ve overcome few problems after updating Klipper recently , the switch_offset in AutoZ.cfg doesn’t adjust anything , I’ve tried a very low figure to hopefully witness the nozzle go way to high but it didn’t do the adjustment , the AutoZ routine works well but it’s having zero effect & not being applied

@@adrianstealth340 My paologies, but I don't really know what is wrong. This has worked for me and worked well.

Honestly, I am a little concerned. But there are people successfully running these. So far is my tests with a piece of filament, there isn't as much friction as I thought there would be. But who knows, there might be an orbiter in my future. Thanks for commenting!

The gear stepper can be synchronized to the extruder via a setting in the Happy Hare software.

I'm working through the LEDs now. Should be in the next video. Thank you for watching!

Thank you! Just one or two more....

This is a great tip. Thank you!

Hopefully my video will convince others to do it your way! Thanks!

Now I'm waiting to see how you tackle the LEDs. This is one big area of a let down for this kit in my opinion, would have been just a little bit of effort on siboors part to make all 17 leds in a nice easy harness!

I did not see RC2 in the Repo. I just looked again and failed to find it. Please post a link if possible. Thanks for the update!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I've attached the link. In the top left it says "master" where you choose the branch to view. RC2 is what you want. Lots of goodies in that.

Turns out I can't link to it. Check my other reply.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop there is a Branch in the ERCF v2 repo, you can select it when clicking on master and select RC2 or click on the Branches text right to the master text. Its a mixed bag, as it has some commits that are not in the master/main branch but is also behind in some others.

Thank you!

I've avoided the LED installation for the video as I need a little time to also experiement with wiring them to the mcu. I expect to show what I neded up doing in the next video once I get the electronics working.

Those are a bit difficult. I have found that using the back edge of an XActo blade to scrape the tiny neopixel circuit boards with a slight taper toward the led side helps them snap in a bit better.

Also, print twice as many mounts as you need. They tend to snap.

Yes, it did. We will see if I was able to fix it soon.....Thank you!

These boards have been found to be finicky and difficult to manufacture. Apparently Siboor is shipping regular stiff PCBs now, which aren't recommended by the ERCF team as they inhibit movement of the filament blocks. The best bet is to just solder up a harness with wire at this point. Hopefully the FCB version can be updated and work better soon.

Thank you for watching and commenting!

This is a good idea. I may need to disassemble this to get the bearing properly greased. Thank you!

Compare your pause and resume macros to mine. Anything look like it might impact the stored or resumed position? [gcode_macro PAUSE] description: Pause the actual running print rename_existing: PAUSE_BASE # change this if you need more or less extrusion variable_extrude: 1.0 gcode: ##### read E from pause macro ##### {% set E = printer["gcode_macro PAUSE"].extrude|float %} ##### set park positon for x and y ##### # default is your max posion from your printer.cfg {% set x_park = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x|float - 5.0 %} {% set y_park = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y|float - 5.0 %} ##### calculate save lift position ##### {% set max_z = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.z|float %} {% set act_z = printer.toolhead.position.z|float %} {% if act_z < (max_z - 2.0) %} {% set z_safe = 2.0 %} {% else %} {% set z_safe = max_z - act_z %} {% endif %} ##### end of definitions ##### PAUSE_BASE G91 {% if printer.extruder.can_extrude|lower == 'true' %} G1 E-{E} F2100 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Extruder not hot enough")} {% endif %} {% if "xyz" in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} G1 Z{z_safe} F900 G90 G1 X{x_park} Y{y_park} F6000 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Printer not homed")} {% endif %} [gcode_macro RESUME] description: Resume the actual running print rename_existing: RESUME_BASE gcode: ##### read E from pause macro ##### {% set E = printer["gcode_macro PAUSE"].extrude|float %} #### get VELOCITY parameter if specified #### {% if 'VELOCITY' in params|upper %} {% set get_params = ('VELOCITY=' + params.VELOCITY) %} {%else %} {% set get_params = "" %} {% endif %} ##### end of definitions ##### {% if printer.extruder.can_extrude|lower == 'true' %} G91 G1 E{E} F2100 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Extruder not hot enough")} {% endif %} RESUME_BASE {get_params}

Me too! Thank you!