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Thank for watching and the nice comments!

Check to make sure the extruder is tensioned properly. If it is, tune your extruder, or increase Extrusion in you slicer

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop You dont even know how much this helped, ive been trying all weekend to fix this, Thank you!

Interesting tip. I actually just purchased some kailh switches for use in filament sensors on the tool head. It’s good to know they are more reliable. Thanks for the comment and watching!

I will need to check on that. My apologies if I made a mistake. Thank you for the feedback and watching!

Yes, you can.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop excuse me did you have to adjust the steppers for the new motor?

@@enriquepalero2827 I adjusted the current for the new stepper motor….assuming I am correctly understanding the question. Am I?

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop yes, sorry for bad english, i want to change the extruder on my ender 5 and am not sure if i will have to change voltage

Got it. You should not need to change the voltage.

It’s the standard Stealthburner with its default extruder. The hotend is the Rapido from TriangleLabs. This is the v1 of the Rapido. I still use it and the extruder today. Thanks for the nice comments and watching!

It could. But, if you try it and it still does not improve, this might be your solution.

Thanks for the great comment!

So there are 2 LDO motors that look the same but are very different. One has a 17mm body and is slightly lighter than the 20mm body version of that motor. They have 2 different model numbers (one with a 17 and the other with a 20). They are both great motors that for their size can easily handle this job. I have used both, they both work well. However, if you run the 17 at the current levels that people use for the 20, it will over heat since electrically, they are very different motors. Get the current right, they work really well. The 17 uses significantly less current. I love this extruder with either motor, but generally, people prefer it with the 20mm motor that uses more current while running cooler. It's getting harder to find the 17 as it has earned a reputation due to people running it at the wrong settings. I have run print jobs with both motors for a week straight and neither has failed me. This and the other variation of this extruder are both great. I recommned them both.

It does not have it. I'm not sure how it could be added.

So in your case, if not using canbus, just use USB and treat it like an additional MCU. Just like your pi is currently connected to your MCU where you installed klipper on that MCU. Now you need to do the save to the BTT MCU. They will both plug into the pi via a USB cable. If you look at the early Voron 2.4 videos before there were MCU's that could handle all the stepper motors, it was common to use 2 MCUs. So now you need to do the same here. Watch a ver early Voron 2.4 electronics build video. You can probably still find those instructions on the Voron build instructions too. I use canbus, so until I decide to eliminate that or build a new 3d printer, its going to be very hard for me to create a video that shows this.

Thanks for watching!

You will very soon. Thanks for the comment!

Good advice. Thank you for posting!

I am not aware of any marlin firmware extensions that support ERCF. ERCF was designed to work with Klipper. To make this work, I think you will need to change your printer's firmware to klipper. It's not hard to do, but I would work on that 1st. Thanks for the comments and watching!

Others have been stating the same thing. Thanks for watching and the comments!

Your comment was nice but not accurate. The price is ridiculous.

Thank you for commenting! I appreciate the feedback!

Where would you get the control panel that shows the temp and controls the fan for DIY??? I would like something like this but i don't think this specific one will fit my application

@@derekgodwin Something like this? amzn.to/4iLzy9Y

I get it. I actually have switched to non-white lithium grease since that video. Thanks for the comment and watching!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop And you’re a better person because of it. Depends on the need but I don’t like the drag and tackiness of white lithium. Is non-white the same? For lightweight stuff super lube is awesome. It’s almost like a mix of fine grease/oil mixed together.

Non-white is actually a little thicker. But since I use these in an enclosed 3d printer, the grease seems to get softer in the heat. It seems to work well. Seems I need to give super lube a try.

The feet are adjustable, so I have no wobble. I've started to stack filament boxes on top as well as the bottom, and so far no issues. It seems strong enough for what it was intended for.

No, there isn't. I'm taking the filament hangers out to make more storage space. I live in an area of humidity, so I won't be sroing open spools there. I do plan on moving one of those hangers (possibly more) to the printer area. Thanks for commenting and watching!

$500, that’s crazy. I’d rather do the prusa ikea table one.

With a bit of time and effort this is could be diy and way better : with wood & acrylic, some light strip, a fan, some sensors and an ESP32 or any arduino raspberry and a cheap ali screen. With upgrade like using a noctua fan, automated fan activation, octoprint built in(for raspberry), light color changes when print is finished, rubber seals. and this is cheaper, but it takes some work

You could build a pretty cool one. I agree. I don't have the time these days, but if I did.......Thank you for commenting and watching!

The Ikea table is certainly an option. Thank you for commenting and watching!

Thank you for commenting and watching!

Hmmm. I tested it and it seems to work. Does it still not work?

I can't tell you how many times I do that. And always on the prints that are hard to remove the supports from. Thank you for commenting and watching!

Thats a good idea. I may try that later depending on which printer ends up staying inside this. I have a v0.2 that looked silly because it was so small, but it's not enclosed so this is where it might end up. Thank you for commenting!

There has to be an "air intake" in order for the vent fan to remove fumes effectively. This is why it isn't necessary to completely close off your enclosed printers as well. You want an overall negative pressure inside the chamber so that fumes will not escape any other place but the vent fan. I do find it very strange, however, that they left such an unpleasing gap in the doors.

@@seadog6351 The fan is quite large on the back. I suppose for it to work well the space was needed?

Thank you!

I'm sorry, but I have no experience with a printer shutting itself down automatically. When the print is done, I do power down the bed and hot end heater automatically, but I leave the printer running.

Do you have Klipper running on the Arduino? Or, are you using a Pi?

@KapmansBasementWorkshop I am using an Arduino Mega with a RAMPS 1.4 on top of it. That's it.

I don't have much experience with glass beds. I'm curious what others come back with.

The manual describes how the part names work which shows you which should be colored as accents vs the main color. It's the same page that describes the print settings required. If you have an ender style printer, can the different mounts for the stealthburner be used to mount stealthburner so you can install the cutter? Thank you for watching and commenting!

Interesting that you state this. I can certainly see it. I thought it reminded me of a spider or a crab. Thank you for watching and commenting!

I did not notice. It's an old camera. Probably time for a replacement. Thank you for the feedback and watching.

I believe so far it uses it for two things, debris detection and spagetti detection. It just updated today with improvements in those areas.

Its actually a potentially very good use for AI. For one thing it can be trained to pick up big weird shapes in locations where they shouldnt be. And imagine a degree of implementation in the future where a perspective render of the model from where the camera is at each slice is used for comparison to determine if any section of the model doesnt match what it should be, to trigger a warning on the little flaws too

@@bobjoe1593 I did not even think about your last use case. Thats a good one!

When I get this back togather. I'm in the process of essentially rebuilding my printer from bottom to top. It hans't chnanged very much since I built it. After some time with other printers, mine is lagging a bit in comparison. It's tired and needs an update. That you very much for the super nice comments and for watching!

SO far, for PLA, it's a monster....thank you for watching!

I'm glad it helped. Thank you for watching and posting!

Do you mean something like this? preciseprinterparts.com/Voron-Salad-Fork-160mm-Cast-Aluminum-Printer-Bed-With-Magnets_p_54.html I have heard these work great. However, an induction probe won't work on a bed such as this and you also need a highquality bed plate...thicker that the standard cheap bed plates.

While I have no experience with that printer, it has linear guides and auto bed leveling. If it's anything like the S1 in terms of quality, I think it's a great deal. The claim is it can print PLA, PETG and ABS...assume it won't print ABS or ASA. It really needs to be enclosed for you to print with ABS and ASA. Unless someone sells an enclosure for it or you make one. $200 seems like a great deal.

Everything I have printed on this has been beautiful. I've not seen print quality like this previously. At just slightly slower speeds, it's simply amazing. Thank you very much for commenting and watchhing!

I'm sold as well. It's my 1st delta and it's amazing. And the overall printer sitting in my basement actually looks good! Thanks for the comment!

This is great to know. I have not had issues yet, but you never know. Thank you for the comment!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop That's lucky! Keep up the great work!

THis is such a nice printer. I have been facinated by deltas, but never owned one. I think I'm a convert now! Thank you for the comment!

I am amazied by the quality and the speed. And it's really well built. And the linear guides are the biggest I have seen in a 3d Printer. Thank you for the comment!

It's a long story filled woith lost video and burnout. However, someone else went off and created the other needed videos. Have a look here: www.youtube.com/@SilverbackDesign-yd4dd

Ha! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Это хорошая идея. Спасибо за комментарий и просмотр!

The case has considerable space for fans on the back. As long as they are all blowing air out the back while the cooler is blowing it in, you should be fine. Mine has been running 24 hours per day since I made this video, never had a cooling problem. Thanks!

​@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Been watching more videos in the meantime to gather some ideas. Apparently you can opt for push or pull (or push/pull) with these AiO coolers. If I understand this correctly you can mount the fans reversed so that they pull the air out through the radiator. It's just marginally less effective than the push variant... and I guess I'd have to add some fans in the back to suck air in.... hmm still undecided. If I really wanted to go crazy I could even fit a 360 mm cooler on the top. No clue how hot these new CPUs even get.

Yes, you can. If using Klipper, you would install Klipper and the connect a USB cable to your pi running Klipper as well

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop OK thank you and nice work!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop are there any instructions on how this works?

@@dannyweber42 The Github for ERCF as well as the github for happyhare should have it coverred.

I have a Rat-Rig V-core 3.1 500 running Klipper. I do not have Canbus (that I know of). I have finished the mechanical assembly and have the Siboor v2 kit Circuit Board installed. Are you saying I just plug in a USB to Raspberry Pi 4B, and power up the Rat-Rig V-core 3.1? What about USB jumper on MMB board? AC power plug to MMB board to be used? What software gets installed? ​@@KapmansBasementWorkshop

I super glad to hear learn this helped. Thank you very much for the comment. I believe you will soon learn to love Klipper.