Building the ERCF v2, Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder by Siboor. Part 4 - The Cotton Tail Buffer ERCT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ค. 2024
- This video series shows how to build an Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder known as the ERCF v2 for your 3d printer. The ERCF is a filament changer that allows your 3d printer to switch colors during a print. In this video, I'm using a Siboor kit. You will need to 3d print your own parts with this kit. The kit is organized really well with a toolbox of very high quality parts. It even comes with a BTT BigTreeTech EBB MMB Mainboard and 2209 drivers.
This video is part 4 which shows how to build the Cotton Tail filament buffer known as the ERCT. Note that while the ERCF is closely associated with the Voron community, the ERCF & ERCT should work with any 3d printer.
Important links:
- Siboor Kits can be found here at a discount of $15: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235544...
Note: if you order with a Voron 2.4 or SwitchWire 3d printer, Siboor will provide an additional $15 discount.
Important documentation:
ERCT Github for documentation and STL files: github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Com...
ERCF V2 Github for documentation and stl files: github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Com... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
If you run into the issue where all the pre gate sensors come up as triggered when running the mmu_sensors command in the console, the issue I found was all the holes where the bearings dropped in had a little bit of an overhang issue causing the bearings not to fully seat which then in turn caused all of the switches to be pressed. Also easiest way to install the pcb is when the buffer is put together.
Thats a good tip. I ended up ripping one of the microswitches off the PCB by mistake. I pressed it back in, but once hooked up, both it and the switches aroound it were unreliable. I ended up pulling the PCB off and soldered wires across the microswitches. I will show it off in the next video. Thank you for posting!
Awesome job with this whole ERCF V2 series!
Thank you! Just one or two more....
I installed the coupler blocks and assembled the arms first, then did the microswitch. It was a little tedious, but watching this im glad I did it that way!
Hopefully my video will convince others to do it your way! Thanks!
Now I'm waiting to see how you tackle the LEDs. This is one big area of a let down for this kit in my opinion, would have been just a little bit of effort on siboors part to make all 17 leds in a nice easy harness!
Thanks for the video Kapman! Interested to see how you tackle the LED’s
I'm working through the LEDs now. Should be in the next video. Thank you for watching!
Thanks. Very good for understanding. Wait to continue
Thank you!
Im building this same kit at the moment and hit the same issues with the silly m3 traps. Trying the V grove traps now. Thanks for the tips! Have been waiting for a video each week to continue my progress :)
The v groove traps are what worked for me. I had planned on releasing the video for electronics and software by now, but it's going to take a few more days. But that and at least one more are on the way. Thank you for commenting and letting me know I wasn't the only one!
Thank you for the video!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Hi man. Thx for all nice videos. Im also building an Siboor ERCF V2. One question that popped up for me was how do they think about the bypss channel. I have the filament coming in right from the electeonics box area. Not clear how they think here!!??
Good video. At 6:57 it looks like the M2 micro switch tore of the flex board? Hopefully not, can't tell.
Yes, it did. We will see if I was able to fix it soon.....Thank you!
These boards have been found to be finicky and difficult to manufacture. Apparently Siboor is shipping regular stiff PCBs now, which aren't recommended by the ERCF team as they inhibit movement of the filament blocks.
The best bet is to just solder up a harness with wire at this point. Hopefully the FCB version can be updated and work better soon.
A bit late now perhaps, but the RC2 files are available on Github and they have much easier to print buffers and such. And some other improvements to a bunch of different parts. I printed those for my Siboor kit and the kit went together smoothly. There's even a heatset insert version on the way for the three buffer walls that surround the buffer wheels. (Requested by several people, including myself, who felt that the plastic was incredibly easy to strip out when attaching the buffer wheel walls to one another) I personally put together the buffer completely, then inserted the ball bearings, laid down the PCB and then added screws to the switches one by one, left to right, then I finally tested each switch with a piece of filament. It wasn't a big deal at all to attach the endstop PCB.
I did not see RC2 in the Repo. I just looked again and failed to find it. Please post a link if possible. Thanks for the update!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I've attached the link. In the top left it says "master" where you choose the branch to view. RC2 is what you want. Lots of goodies in that.
Turns out I can't link to it. Check my other reply.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop there is a Branch in the ERCF v2 repo, you can select it when clicking on master and select RC2 or click on the Branches text right to the master text.
Its a mixed bag, as it has some commits that are not in the master/main branch but is also behind in some others.
I'm wondering how the filament will ever be able to move easily enough through all of that paraphernalia, like the long PTFE tubing, buffer wheels, runout sensors, idlers, collets, not to mention a dry box. Regular ASA/PLA is slippery smooth, so yeah, fine. But matte PLA, CF blends, and many others are not, and have significant drag. Even with only an encoder and the tube feeding my 2.4, I quickly exhaust my extruder's ability to push hard enough for good flow, while pulling hard against parasitic drag. Is this a concern for you? Does this system actively mitigate this in some way? Thanks for the great content!
Honestly, I am a little concerned. But there are people successfully running these. So far is my tests with a piece of filament, there isn't as much friction as I thought there would be. But who knows, there might be an orbiter in my future. Thanks for commenting!
The gear stepper can be synchronized to the extruder via a setting in the Happy Hare software.
Are you going to show a video on wiring to the machine and configuring in klipper and klipper screen?
I am working on that video right now. It has taken longer than I expected. But it on the way.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Awesome thank you! I'm struggling to find all the documentation for everything so your videos have been super helpful. Much appreciated!
@@jeffrex6305 Sooon!
I’m curious, what LED carrier mount did you use for the coupler block? I can’t mount my neopixels in the STL in the ECRF V2 repo.
I've avoided the LED installation for the video as I need a little time to also experiement with wiring them to the mcu. I expect to show what I neded up doing in the next video once I get the electronics working.
Those are a bit difficult. I have found that using the back edge of an XActo blade to scrape the tiny neopixel circuit boards with a slight taper toward the led side helps them snap in a bit better.
Also, print twice as many mounts as you need. They tend to snap.
Would this work on a Creality K1 Printer?
I believe it would. The software for this uses Klipper, so assuming your K1 is using klipper and you have a spare USB port, it should work.
So don't use carbon fiber filled for the board holder do to the conductivity of carbon fiber!!!
I would not have considered it would be conductive. Thanks for posting this.