Top 10 StealthBurner build tips
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ค. 2024
- If you are planning on building and installing StealthBurner, have a look at these top 10 tips that could help make you build or migration faster, easier and lighter. These tips are useful if you are using a Voron or a creality ender, or any 3d printer you might have decided to add a StealthBurner to.
Important links:
StealthBurner Manual: vorondesign.com/voron_stealth...
Initial startup tuning: docs.vorondesign.com/build/st...
Titanium bolts: www.aliexpress.com/store/grou...
Single MGN9 Carriage: github.com/Kapman1/StealthBur...
The green filament I used can be purchased at Amazon where I receive a commission that is applied to content creation on this site: The filament: amzn.to/3LDNiVG
or
The military green ABS and black ASA filament: www.paramount-3d.com/?ref=o45...
Instagram: / kapmansbasementworkshop - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
As always, very useful and informative content presented extremely well. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much for the kind comment!
This is handy, Im about to do my second Stealthburner. Thanks.
You've done great work recently.
Great to hear! Thank you for watching and good luck with the build!
Very clear, concise and to the point. Amazing how well mistakes become the best learning tool. I bookmark this, my Trident is coming in few weeks.
Good luck with the build and thank you!
Great video. Your tips were very valuable to me. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Damn worth it. Well organized and produced. Awesome tips without being wordy or clickbaity.
Thank you for the nice comments and watching!
Thank you for the guide! I recently picked up a used Vivedino Troodon v1. Now I know that I can rotate my MGN9 rail from the top to the front and attach a Stealthburner!
You should be able to. Thanks for the comment and watching!
Sir Kapman just wanted to say videos like this are appreciated for those who are undertaking a build! I'm finally getting around to assembling my Vor 2.4 (350x350) and a 0.1 . They've been sitting for so long (over a year now) that I have to pick up an mgn12h rail to update the 2.4 to the ver2 update! However procrastination may have saved me some headaches; being able to learn from others mistakes so-to-speak. That said I bet I'll still encounter some head scratching and facepalming. Thanks for the tips, exploring your previous videos now; you got a sub bud! Let you know how it turns out....
Thank you very much for the kind words and I'm very glad you find these helpful. I'd be happy to hear how these two printers turn out!
Great video! Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
Nice vid. Flip those cable chain ends! Get those chains in check.
Thanks for the tip, but I've tried it and it's no better. Have a look at my last video, I removed most of them....
Love the video. The music started grinding on my gears eventually :p
Thank you! It sounds like I need to look for some better music....
I had the Stealthburner parts printed by the company I ordered my 2.4r2 from. After a couple of prints I found that the part where the gear clips into got a little loose, which caused the pin holding the gear to wiggle itself free after about 2 hours of printing. Switched to a Bondtech LGX lite, problem solved once-and-for-all. There are also a number of mounts out there looking very similar to the Clockwork 2.
Since then I also switched to using a BTT EBB36 with MAX31865, which makes wiring really simple and also possible to do an umbilical cord on the 2.4. Thinking of getting the new EBB SB2240 and giving it a spin.
I've got the EBB36 installed as well. Seems to work well. I've seen others use the LGX lite as well. I might need to try that at some point. Thanks for the comments and watching!
Built a stealthburner for my ender 3 (switchwire conversion parts already in) a while back, was impossible to tune flow. The gear ratio finally fixed it!!
Then the video was worth it. Thanks so much for watching!
great info.
Thanks for watching!
Just built 1st Voron - 2.4r2 w/ stealthburner/clockwork2/dragon HF...esteps calibrated, input shaper / resonance calibrated, pressure advance calibrated...prints beautifully...then I see step #8 to change the gear ratio..DOH, well, looks like I need to start all over again. Great Video and thanks for putting this out there.
If it's printing beautiful, I would leave it be. Thank you for watching!
I considered that but also have a rapido on the way as the printer is actually outrunning the dragon HF. So, I will likely have to redo some work anyway so I might as well get the gear ratio correct. Your channel is one my my goto for Voron content…thanks again
@@brianadreger I just read this again. When I run higher speeds, I've noticed I need to increase the temperature for the Filament as well. You might find an additional 5 or 10 degrees help it hit that speed. I would also try a CHT nozzle which is designed to better distribute the heat within the filament to help it melt better/faster. Also, thank you very much!
Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
not building one myself, but I must say this video is very nice. Need more useful vids like these instead of those waste of time live streams
Thank you for the compliments! Glad you liked it and thank you for watching!
The one heatset in the manual for clockwork can be a pain to install without touching the part, the manual states it. I used a silicone sock from a hotend over the soldering iron, to create a barrier against the ABS while installing that one.
That's a good idea. Thank you!
Great video, it helped me a lot building my toolhead so thank you!. Also, it really came to my attention your first layer, silky smooth, no a single line ... how did you achieve that finish?
There are lines, but it's hard to see with the lighting and the camera. However, I think the z-offset has a lot to do with it. You may find having it slightly closer to the bed at the start of the print might get you the look you are after. I'm glad the video was a help. Thank you for watching and the kind comments!
@@Kapman's Basement Workshop if you get the smaller stepper driver you're supposed to lower the amperage on it and it'll cool it down
But if you want to increase the amperage.....thanks!
Hi, thanks for the video. I've just finished a 2.4 build with Stealthburner and while it seems to be printing fine I do have audible issues. 1. The part cooling fan makes a loud buzzing sound as a result from vibration from the xy steppers at slow speeds. 2. The clockwork 2 extruder makes a fairly loud clicking sound when doing retractions. Just wondering if you experienced any of these issues or if they are just normal?
If the extruder is clicking, I would check to see if increasing the pressure with the thumbscrew helps. I would also check to make sure retraction is not more than 0.5mm. As a last resort, I might try increasing the motor current slightly. For the fan, I found it tricky to get installed properly and flush. I would try that and also check to make sure it wasn't slightly contacting a wire. Thanks for watching!
Moons also got a good stepper motor, according pins in the stealthburner section of the voron discord it's slightly better than the LDO one, but you're good with either of them.
I have heard that, but as of yet no experience with moon motors. Thank you!
Hi
Great tips..
Great work.
I have a question about the slicer settings - when printing voron parts, do you turn on the arachne cut or the classic cut
What extrusion widths to set in slicer? Force 0.4 or slightly different?
Brilliant tip with printing two lever parts at the beginning.
And the last question whether to take into account the shrinkage of the filament when cutting the model in slicer?
So that the distances between the axes of the individual driveubextruder gears are preserved.
Greetings
All Voron parts are designed for ABS, so don't take shrinkage into account, the designers already have.
I did not use arachne when I built this printer because it did not exist. Today I would use it. It will probably look slightly better and no loss in strength.
All Voron design build manuals/instructions have the settings you should use for printing at the beginning of the document. You should follow those details. However, if you are printing the parts for a v2.4 (for example), page 4 states this:
PART PRINTING GUIDELINES
The Voron Team has provided the following print guidelines for you to follow in order to have the best chance at
success with your parts. There are often questions about substituting materials or changing printing standards, but
we recommend you follow these:
3D PRINTING PROCESS:
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)
INFILL TYPE:
Grid, Gyroid, Honeycomb, Triangle or Cubic
MATERIAL:
ABS
INFILL PERCENTAGE:
Recommended: 40%
LAYER HEIGHT:
Recommended: 0.2mm
WALL COUNT:
Recommended: 4
EXTRUSION WIDTH
Recommended: Forced 0.4mm
SOLID TOP/BOTTOM LAYERS
Recommended: 5
I hope that helps.
And thank you for the great comments and watching!
Thanks for the tips. Where did you source titanium bolts from? If you don't mind me asking, what's the cost of a titanium set of bolts?
AlitExpress. Here is the store: www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Titanium-Fasteners/1101411097_513072835.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_12275096.1_7
I should have posted the link. Thanks for reminding me. Thank you for watching!
I am really interested in the stl for the single mgn9 carriage. I didn't see it in the description unless I am missing something.
Sorry about that. I was expecting it would be posed elsewhere and I would provide the link. That did not happen. I posted it to my GitHub. Please see here: github.com/Kapman1/StealthBurner-Single-MGN9-Carriage
Please let me know if that does not work or you cannot get it. It should be open to everyone. Thanks!
What filament is that!? It looks fantastic, I am looking for a color like thay for my next build.
I really like it as well. Paramount 3d Military Green. They have some other military shades of green as well that are worth looking at. Thanks for watching!
Somewhat unrelated note, what version of the decontaminator brush/bucket are you using that you were able to move it away from the rail as to not interfere with euclid probe dock?
I acually did not use the decontaminator. All the links and the story of what I did is here: th-cam.com/video/ZEXYnXZA8B0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop watched a lot of your videos and don't know how I missed that one. Keep up the great work and thanks for all the info.
@@AbjectMaelstrom That you for the encouragement!
Hello Thank you again for your Voron series :) Your X carriiage drag chain is wrongly mounted should siit flat at the SB bracket I think you need to rotate the last link at the end either there (SB) or where iit attachs to the rail (near the XY endstop.
Thanks for the info! However, I think it's a poor quality drag chain as I've rotated it and it was worse. But I've got to run additional wire soon, so I'll try that again just to make sure. Thank you for the tip and for watching!
Hi while ordering the Titanium bolts I realized the M3x16 SHCS are not there, they have m3x15, do you think those will work?
They worked for me. I assume they will work for you as well. Thank you for watching!
Do you have a link to the recommended extruder gear option?
Yes. I purchased this kit. It's available from other vendors as well.
kb-3d.com/store/bondtech/484-bondtech-bmg-extruder-internals-kit-build-your-own-1645151327973.html
Thanks for watching!
Hi 🌹
I need help, please. I'm new to 3D printing, and currently, I'm building VORON 2.4 out of the official VORON 2.4 documentation on the website.
There's something I don't get it, from the generated Excel file, there is a 1 NEMA14 Motor 36STH20-1004AHG, and when I search for it, I think it's the one at 02:12 . But I see many people use NEMA17 HS08-1004S which I think it's that one at 3:01, So which one do I use? And what are each one used for?
The NEMA 14 is most likely for the extruder on the print head
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop
and the other NEMA 17? Is it from the parts list?
What’s a good place to buy the titanium bolts ?
I have purchased from both these places successfully:
fastener.aliexpress.com/store/1101411097?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_12275096.0
chinatiscrew.aliexpress.com/store/1100450727?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_36874919.0
Also, some have started using aluminum screws as they are apparently cheaper and lighter.
Where did you get the titanium screws!? Aren't they Hella expensive?
Aluminum screws are much cheaper and also lighter. But I got them here:
www.aliexpress.com/store/1101411097?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.18.1ee31802xV8vym
They were cheaper than steel screws at my local hardware store....
Thanks for watching!
@Kapman's Basement Workshop my pleasure 🙏, thanks for the videos and link
When I included (mainsail.cfg) ,in (printer.cfg )i get an error.any suggestion.?
What error are you getting?
Do you have an actual mainsail.cig file?
which extruder and hot end did you use to make this?
I used this same printer with afterburner built with a Dragon HF. And now the dragon HF is in the stealth burner.
What blower fan brand your using?
I used a Gdstime blower. So far, it seems to work well. No complaints.
can you make a tutorial for backup klipper config to github
Thank you for an interesting idea! I need some time to consider a cool way to get this done. But I do plan on releasing one now that you have suggested it.
What is the main benefit of migration from afterburner?
I think the top 3 reasons are: 1. Vastly better cooling for PLA. It's not even close on this one. 2. Lighting at the nozzle. 3. Smaller and lighter and possibly better extruder motor. I might add a 4th for better wire hiding with improved cover. But honestly, if you just print ABS, there is no major need here.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for the answer! I could love number 1 (although my PLA prints are quite ok now), the nozzle lights I don't know if I need them and the installation and wiring seems a bit complicated. Could I also leave the lights out? 3 and 4 - alright, why not! Are there also disadvantages of the stealthburner compared with the afterburner, reasons against an upgrade?
@@martinlacher7932 I don't think there are any disadvantages, but I need more time using it to be sure. But if you only print ABS, I would only switch if something was broken with afterburner as it's great for ABS. You can run StealthBurner without the LED lighting. I temporarily have my LED lighting disabled as I am using the MCU RGB connections for Nevermore. But I am about to fix that in the next week or so. I'm actually excited to have LED lighting at the nozzle. I find myself using a flashlight to sometimes observe what is happening on the 1st layer. The LED lighting will solve that.
Suporte to print stealth burner why???? Mine is printed face down with PC-CF no issues at all!
I did too. It was a mistake I made and you can't recover from it. Thanks for watching!
Any reason on not using Nylon bolts?
I have never used nylon bolts. I know nothing about them. Do you think they are strong enough in the heat?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop They use them quite frequently in building drones to reduce the weight. So they have the strength. Considering their melting temp is around 250, why not give them a go?
@@oplavevski Ha! you are tempting me. Now that you mention it, I have some small ones for mounting circuit boards. Not nearly long enough, but might be usable in a few strategic spots. I'll look into them and work on a project....Thank you for the tip!
@@oplavevski In just a few minutes of looking at the different types, this is super interesting.
Where's the link for dual mgn9?
You mean for the Voron 2.4 v1?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop yes
You need to download the source code zip file here: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2
tl;dr: RTFM (plus Titanium bolts)
Pretty close to the truth!
n the price of titanium 20 times more 🤔
Have you looked into it? Not that many are needed. That said, it's not critical. Purely optional. Thanks for watching!