Voron TAP build, install, configuration, tips & tricks, final thoughts.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- This video covers building TAP, install and configuration ( in this case an MGN9 linear rail ) of the 3d printer along with a few tips and tricks and my final thoughts. This 3d printer is equipped with an mgn9 rail instead of the mgn12 and canbus as well. But the steps will work no matter your setup. There are also some resonance readings to show the impact this mad may have on acceleration. This was done on my Voron 2.4, but could be done on any 3d printer running Klipper.
Voron TAP Github with STL files: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap
STL for MGN9 Mount: www.printables.com/model/3713...
My printer.cfg file. Please don't just copy the file into your klipper setup: github.com/Kapman1/TAP-cfg-file
If you wish to use canbus as I did, you can get everything you need at: The EBB36: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=221109..."
If you prefer, the EBB36 and U2c can be purchased at Amazon. I receive commissions for these purchases that directly contribute to the site's content. The Amazon links are:
EBB36: amzn.to/3HrI3pB
U2C: amzn.to/40K6mG5
Green filament: The filament: amzn.to/3LDNiVG
or: The military green ABS and black ASA filament: www.paramount-3d.com/?ref=o45...
Instagram: / kapmansbasementworkshop - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Its amazing how much time you have save me of testing. Thanks a lot for your time and dedication.
Glad I could help!
I'm glad I stumbled across your channel! I don't know how long you've been making content, but you are a pro. I already watched your SB2040 CAN install and that was great as well. Concise, easy to follow, great audio (other youtubers need to take note), great video and best of all it's not buried in the middle of a 4 hour long live stream. Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much for the kind words and watching! I'm glad you find these useful!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop A lot of the non-Hiwin rails have "fake" grease ports. They have the hole, but it doesnt lead anywhere. Also I decided to pull the trigger on the 2.4r2. I self sourced and built a Switchwire first, because I thought it would be an easier build and get me familiar with the Voron way of doing things. I've picked up a bunch of tricks and tips from watching your vids, so I'm excited to give it a go! The ldo kit I purchased comes with klicky and I've already printed and assembled Nevermore v5 duo, but what mods would you recommend from your experience? Do you think I should skip klicky and go straight to TAP? Thanks again for the great content!
@@fumanseano2846 Since I actually print from my basement, Nevermore helped a lot gaining acceptance of this from other family members. If you are interested in printing as fast as possible, I would continue with Klicky and add the automatic z-calibration software install (amazing) to that. It works great. If speed isn't your top priority, TAP is nice. I'm actually still using it and like it quite a bit. I find myself constantly tinkering with the printer so I've used magnetic panel clips (there are non-magnetic options as well) on the 2 side panels so I can easily and quickly remove the side panels and get them back on again. Super useful. I don't know what size 2.4 you are building, but I find the 3d printed handles that mount to the top of the printer very helpful on the 350mm model. I don't know if your kit comes with led lighting for the interior, but I consider it mandatory at this stage. Finally, once you have the printer up and running for a while, after some time, if you run into any wire breaks (you may never have that problem), I'm a fan of canbus. But it's not a trivial upgrade. I think the most important advice I can give you is to be careful each step of the way in the build and construct the printer as square and accurate as you can. It's a really well designed 3d printer and actually works pretty fantastic once fully assembled. Just be sure to follow ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ after you have completed the Voron initial startup instructions. It's the best guide out there to take your print quality to the next level. I wish you a fantastic build!
@@fumanseano2846 I failed to respond to all of it. Some people are drilling 1mm holes into the fake grease ports and the claim is that it then works properly...
Great video as always, thanks! Especially like the sober, balanced evaluation at the end, not just going along with the hype. I will stay with Klicky for now.
Thank you for the kind words!
This is very fascinating.
I think tap concept is cool. But the weight is uncool. I really like my klicky probes... Weight and acceleration, especially with my goal of 10k acceleration printing on a 350 voron. I'm running 8k now and it's absolute fantastic. Love the videos
That is where I would like to see my 350 at, 10k. Thanks for the comments!
I've been looking to rebuild my hot end assembly because I have a cw1 and was going to install TAP when I did the cw2 upgrade. I've been waiting for 3dlabtech to restock their TAP kits but after watching this it has made me rethink the TAP. My klicky setup has been working great and as much I want the new 'hotness', I'm not sure if the loss of acceleration potential is worth the fomo.
Thanks for another great video and keep up the good work!
It works well, but I'm not sure I'm going to keep it on my printer. I want that acceleration back and I really like printing on smooth PEI. I'm "on the fence" I suppose. Thank you for the kind comments and watching!
Lot's of good info. I've been using TAP on my Voron V2 with smooth PEI. As long as you're not probing with a fully up to temp hotend you shouldn't see any drastic damage. I actually haven't seen any issues with mine.
I also lowered my temps quite a bit and I have been using it with a smooth PEI sheet as well. And no marks. I'm getting ready for a followup video on some tips and what I've learned. As the weeks go by, I like it more and more. Thanks for watching and the comments!
Beacon has entered the chat.
@@beaconscanner Yes, it has. :)
Thanks for the video! I ordered an euclid probe a while back so when I saw tap I was like- oh, now I want that! But considering the cons I think I'll go back and watch your euclid video instead :)
I do need to let you know that the more I use it, the more I like it. I'm making some minor changes to my setup that continue to improve things. I hope to have an update in a month or so.
Thanks for watching!
Another addition: I just installed the 3do nozzle camera. Absolutely awesome! I printed the stealthburner adaptation, pulled the 2.5 meter usb cable through the cable guide. Added camera to moonraker and fluidd. Works like a charm! I did not change the led’s, because I already have rgwb (4 channel) and the leds that come with it are 3 channel white.
That's cool to know! I've been looking at that as it would be nice to have. But since switching to canbus, I'm reluctant to add a USB cable to my print head as I'm down to just 4 wires. Which honestly, is just silly of me to bypass the benefits of a camera like that due to some wires! You may have convinced me to just go ahead and do it......Thank you very much for the comments and watching!
Very informative. I actually just got my tap kit and ordered it on impulse. I didn’t consider the mass difference, which is quite significant. I’m still on a CW 1 afterburner. I e printed the SB parts but still need tk go CW2
I still have alot more testing to do, and it works well. But there are some tradeoffs as far as I can see and experience. Thank you for the comments!
Finished my first Trident last week and installed Klicky PCB with AutoZ and seems solid. I did swap the switch the Klicky PCB came with as it was a plunger style and was giving varying readings. Soldered in a D2F-L switch and lots of times it will read the exact same reading on multiple probes down to the 0.000001. One day I might fool with TAP and see how it's used. Sadly I prefer a Smooth PEI sheet so knowing that now I don't think I can ever really run this.
Someone in the community reached out and stated that if one chooses to use a much higher quality smooth PEI sheet, they should be ok. But that really implies that the 5 or 10 mil think PEI sheeting is used on a self applied bed plate. But I have not tested that. At some point I will give it a try. Thanks for the comments and watching!
The bed doesn't need to cool to probe...you nozzle need to be below printing temperature while probing...also I used a thinker Pei sheet and probe at temperature and have a small pit so milage may vary here...just a few point to throw out.
I might have used the wrong terminology. But you are correct. But also, the nozzle isn't supposed to be over 150c when probing. Near the end of the video, I show what happens to PEI....Thanks for the comments and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshopfor sure great! video!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop so now I’m confused: can the bed and sheet be at printing temp (110 for me) as long as the nozzle is “cool” (
@@drumsmichael yes. it's how it's designed to be used.
Great video and thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching and the kind words!
On the carriages without grease ports, the plastic wiper still has the hole for grease, which makes it look like there is a grease port on the metal carriage. You can also add the grease through one of the rail holes.
Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the info! I did not know that! I'll bet that is what was happening here. Thanks for the comment and watching!
Yup, the hardware kit I bought from Tensor 3d came with a garbage rail. Super rough, pretty dirty and didn't have a grease port. I had a backup LDO rail from the original build and took the carriage off of that. Has a grease port and slides like a dream..... Now I just need to find a PCB. 😭
Just a tip, your Y graphs are from two files, every time delete old file, because it calculate these two together and outpust are little bit out :) My black pei stickers are matte on tap for QGL are just polished, no damage.
Thanks for that! I forgot to remove the old file!!!
Thanks for the great video. Since first installing Tap, are you happy with the change or do you regret theEuclid probe?
I'm actually happy with TAP. I have not switched back to any other probe. But the scrub brush is even more important now. Also, at the temps that the Voron designers recommend, smooth PEI works just fine. I actually lowered the temps by 10 degrees and it still works accurate enough. No dents or scratches in the PEI. My acceleration is not much better, but I'm going to try and clean up a few other things that may be impacting that. This includes using an accelerometer in a different location. There is also a new release of TAP where it appears they worked to improve it's stiffness. So I also need to give that one a try. Thanks for the good question!
Great video! Does your toolhead also „sit“ on the sensor housing and not on the 3d printed holder surrounding it? I noticed that during test assembly little bit worried about damaging the sensor over time.
No, it does not sit on the carriage that is attached to the linear rail that also contains the sensor. The toolhead is attached to the front most holder". Thanks!
I’ve used smooth pei running R8 tap with 4 N48 magnets and while it’s leaves a small barely discernible mark it doesn’t effect the actual coating at all , now I rarely use smooth pei but it can be done.
I'm actually using smooth all the time now. It works as long as the bed and nozzle aren't too hot.
Thanks!
Hello Mr. Kapman! I have possibly a silly question: does it still make sense to do automatic z calibration, if I have the Tap installed?
If I understand correctly, there is stil an offset between the nozzle and the probe and if I change the hotend part of the Stealthburner, I would need to readjust it? And if I have this plugin, it can do this automatically, right?
Not silly at all. If you have TAP installed, no need for auto calibration. For my machine with TAP, I just don't use it.
Since there is no load on the rail won’t anything that can withstand the temperature be enough? Like ptfe spray or something. That would make the rail slide easier also.
I think you are right, as long as there are no solids. I like grease since the interior get so hot....Thanks for watching and the comments!
Well everything is working great, do you have an example Profile for the Prusa slicer , gcode start : print_start EXTRUDER=[first_layer_temperature] BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature]
G90
G32 ; home all axes
G1 Z20 F3000; move nozzle away from bed
My apologies as I don't have a profile for Prusa slicer. But thank you for reporting back that it's working great!
Great video. Thank you for the help. I just installed mine today and missed a lot of the breaking it in steps.
* update: I decided to go back to Klicky Probe. I didn't like the TAP. initially it worked ok, but then kept getting an error for triggered before homing/leveling etc. I did the loosen magnets & move printhead up and down but this only seemed to work temporarily. Maybe they should give a bit more clearance before its triggered. Also, out of the blue I got an error Move out of range: 0.000 0.000 5.052 [0.000] and couldn't fix it. Nothing changed in my printer.cfg before I got the error but I couldn't print anything. So I wen back to Klicky. I really like the TAPs X-Carriage more than the stock carriage. I hope they impliment it into the builds.
Thanks for the feedback. I am actually still using it. I like it, but I sure wish it were much lighter.
'TAP wants PET' should be a new rule in the Voron guideline. If you just put a (double) piece of PET-tape in the corner where you calibrate you can perfectly fine calibrate with your nozzle at upto 260 deg.Celsius
Interesting. Is this documented somewhere?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop hi, yes, but in my unbiased opinion only afaik. but it is based on empirical research of half a year at least, and it is still going on my flsun qqs pro with broken bed plate. it's stronger than the 'lattice glass bed' that was on originally plus it adheres really fine for the PLA/PET/PHA/PHB that I use. but most importantly, even the usual off-z bed scraping prints don't scratch through easily, it is tough. PEI is btw usually typecasted as 'softy' in literature, so a PEI build plate is a risky thing. thanks for the great vid btw! greets
@@durlin84 Thanks for this tip. I want to try this!
I followed along with video, did you have to make changes to the pancake motor ?
None. The Motor should work as it did before.
I've been using a smooth PEI sheet with Tap for a couple weeks with no issues.
I'm sure there is still some acceleration losses with an mgn12 rail, but it probably is less severe than with mgn9...
Do you TAP at 150c? Higher or lower?
Very good install guide. I'm wondering if you're planning on trying the Beacon?
I do, but I have a few projects to get out of the way 1st.....Thank you!
I just ordered a Tap kit but since I primarily print on glass, it's probably not a good idea. Think I stay with my PCB Klicky for now. BTW, I like probing while at temperature.
I'm not sure on that as I don't print on glass. But this really does not create alot of pressure and you don't have a pei sheet to damage. I would think as long as you don't probe too fast, it would probably work well with glass. Thanks for watching.
I'm building a trident (first voron) should I still assemble the z endstop pcb pod?... or try do software right for Tap. is it still good to have in?
I'm still using TAP. I've grown to like it more than I expected. If you don't mind the extra weight on the print head, it's a good path forward. But using Autoz calibration with Klicky or Euclid works well also.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you for your reply :) Your Tap weight in was elucidating… but it looks as though it is still worth trying to chase the implied ease of using it successfully.
@@mildmannered1086 In the end, it's a fairly simple solution. I wish you a great and successful build!
Did you have any issues with the belt wrap? I can obviously pull the belts through from the rear, but getting them into the slots to slide through the channel on the back piece (not the front big slot, the rear piece that has the MGN9 rail on it) is a no go. I've even tried taking an xacto knife and opening the slot a little bit more but have had zero luck with it.
It took some effort, but I got it to work. Make sure the slots for the belt are relatively clean. If I remember correctly, they are printed as overhang. Also, I think I needed the bolts that attach that part to the rail carriage loose to get the belt through. Once the belt was set, I think I then tightened the bolts.
@@WhiteG60 That might work. Does the inside of the belt path appear rough?
@@WhiteG60 It might be over extrusion, but then would expect that everywhere...I wish I had a better answer for you.
i also changed to TAP but now my nozzle cleaner is out of range from the nozzle to clean. do you have any solution for thad?
Have you tried recalibrating the location values for the brush? If you have and still don’t have the space, you might need to move the bed and brush forward slightly so the brush is within reach.
What about adding heat to the grease to reduce viscosity just to assist with greasing these bearings? Obviously you don’t need to hear it excessively but that should help without hurting the grease since the viscosity will just return to normal when it cools back down.
I think it does help. I warmed up the printer with the bed at 110c for 30 to 40 mins. I'd like to think that helped. So far, it has been working well. Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO... CHEERS
That's brave. I got TAP running first. Later I setup sensor less homing. Months later....
Same acceleration issues here. I like that’s is super reliable and it doesn’t matter which surface you used. But I haven’t used smooth PEI.
I also see some retries when doing the quad leveling. Before, I was using Euclid probe and had inconsistent z offset, even when using autoz.
Overall I’m happy with tap, but I’m not sure if I’ll keep it for too long.
In addition I also he CAN Bus using sb2040, and I had to add a small 20x20 fan to cool the mcu. Because when printing ABS the enclosure gets to 65 degrees and the sb2040 was shutting down close 100 degrees. With the small fan the mcu never goes beyond 80 degrees. My Y acceleration it’s a bit better than yours for some reason
So far, I'm still using TAP, but I have left everything else in place just in case I go back. I have dropped the TAP temperature for the nozzle to 130c and today is the 1st day I'm printing with smooth PEI. Time will tell pretty soon if this is ok. I have not had overheating issues with my EBB36, but I did end up placing 2 small heat sinks on the driver chip (one on each side of the circuit board). But I have seen multiple fan mods. Also, I have the 20mm LDO motor instead of the 17mm. It seems to use much less current.
Thanks very much for the comments and watching!
Try me.
@@beaconscanner Send one my way...
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop your channel rocks. Happy to send you one.
Where did you get your kit KD3D, I went to website but didn't see them . Also what did you use for extruder ?
My extruder is the standard extruder integrated into the Stealthburner. Standard Voron.
The TAP kit URL is here: kb-3d.com/store/voron/714-kb3d-voron-tap-upgrade-kit-configurable-1669607433315.html
Please note that you will need to select the different options for how much if TAP you wish to receive. The pre-printed 3d parts are very nice!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I went to the wrong website(KD3D), I ordered the Kit from the right site, what is in the Kit?
@@dansteffee9759 I believe it contained the linear guide, magnets and all the screws needed. You will just need to print the parts and assemble it. You can also order the 3d printed parts from KB3D. The quality is very nice.
It looks like you are using the 5v only version? did you have to do anything special to plug it into the CAN board? You are using the EBB36, correct? You do great videos by the way. very helpful.
Yes, I'm using the 5v only version. I did not need to do anything special other than crimp a connector. I used the same pin row I used for Euclid. I'm using pin: can0:PB9 for the signal and the surrounding pins on that row for + and -. It already outputs 5v even though the EBB36 is connected to 24v. It's a really nice canbus board (I have not used any others) :). Someone alerted me this week that I failed to upload my printer.cfg to github. I will have it there by this weekend. But if it's helpful,
[probe]
pin: can0:PB9
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 0
speed: 3.0
lift_speed:
samples: 3
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 3.0
samples_tolerance: 0.006
samples_tolerance_retries: 4
## and then paste the TAP Macro here.
If you like, send me a message on Discord if you have more questions.
Finally, thank you for the kind words!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop great, thanks. I am getting ready to add canbus and thinking about doing TAP. I have the kit already just not sure if i want to use it yet.
@@Dbauer50 I would do one change at a time. Installing TAP is easier that canbus....
I would advise caution in regards with tip 2, clean_nozzle after print. I removed the line in my case because I had a big collision with one of my prints. Cheers for the video!
I forgot to load my macros into github and post a link. I will get that done by this weekend. It will have an improved clean_nozzle macro. Thank you for the comments (and reminder)!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Interested to see your improved clean_nozzle macro as well.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshopAdding "clean_nozzle" caused collision that destroyed my X rail. This should not be recommended. Didn't see this comment until the devastation was done. What a fricking mess.
@@shpyda81 I'm sorry to hear this has happened to you. Are you using my clean_nozzle macro "as is" or did you change it to meet the requirements of your 3d printer? It's going to be unique to your printer. Mine is only there as an example.
can i see your printer.cfg file? how are you doing the med mesh? i dont think mine is working.
Have a look at it here: github.com/Kapman1/TAP-cfg-file
Hey, there I am solo. I had a question can you make video on how to connect klipper to android.
I hàd ez board
Why would one do this? Is this just for a touch screen? Isn't the android device more powerful than the CB1? What are you trying to achieve? Trying to understand the goal here. Thanks!
Hi, I am not sure where I went wrong. My tap has red liight all the time and when I lift iit turns blue but my Zendstop and probe is always triggered
It must not be wired correctly. I would check that 1st. The PCB on the optical switch should have the labels on the PCB for each wire.
Can I ask why you moved away from the euclid probe? I have been using the euclid probe for a while and the heat seems to be affecting the probe accuracy.
Really just 2 reasons. I wanted to try TAP, but more importantly, I found over time that the microswitches would fail. I believe it was because of the heat in the chamber or my soldering was damaging the switches. I was just tired of replacing them. I still might go back.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you. Currently fighting QGL working with cold bed but fail when the bed is heated.
@@2007gtsc , That's not a problem I had exactly. But when assembling the Euclid, you need to be very fast and accurate when soldering the microswitch. If you have a look at the manufacturer's tech specs of that switch, there are explicit instructions about the maximum heat and time when soldering. My theory is that during that time, I damaged the switch.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I’ll try to solder a new switch on. I know I put lots of heat to it during the installation using my crappy skills. Thanks for the advice.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop soldered a new switch on at 285c and used liquid solder. Ran QGL and everything is good. Thank you so much.
what stealthburner mod is that for holding the belts
What is holding the belts onto the carriage behind the Stealthburner? Have a look at the video description. I typically list everything I use there. But let me know if you think something is missing. I'm happy to provide more details.
in your pros you didn't mention various thickness build sheets? Is this because you are coming from klickey, or is this not an advantage?
Actually, it is an advantage. I failed to point it out because I switched from automatic z calibration with Euclid and so I didn't really gain anything beyond what I had previously. But you are absolutely correct.
If you are using low quality rail for the TAP that will impact your accelerations. Also if you are using the print that you seem to have uploaded to printables your belts might be running at an angle instead of straight. This might also impact your accelerations. I get 7500 Accel og Y on my own 2.4 350mm, also with TAP. I am also running MGN9 but i am using a different mod for installing TAP with MGN9.
Since this video, I have learned a lot. I am testing some other improvements as well. I plan on publishing a followup soon with all I have learned. And yes, that print needs to change. I saw a spacer, but if you have one you recommend, please let me know. Thank you for the comments and watching!
I am wondering why when you were greasing you didn't remove the needle and just pump in the grease into the center hole of the rail then use the plastic piece to hold the bearings?
I had not heard of that technique. But I have learned of it since. That said, I typically use Hiwins and the grease ports actually work, so I was surprised when that did not work on this rail. But when pumping grease into the center hole as you described, that may work for an initial greasing, but what happens when later you need to apply more grease? Do you completely remove the rail so you can do that again?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I guess you have to take it apart to grease it. If the grease port is not working you have to take it apart anyway. I am just saying it would have been a little easier for you and I didn't know if you knew about that technique. So I just thought I would mention it.
@@chucktaylor5878 I learned about it after I did this work. I wish I knew then. Thank you for the tip!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I forgot to say thank you for the video, I didn't mean to sound ungrateful. Your videos are the best. I always look to seek if you have one out for what I need. Keep up the good work!! You have the best 3d printer content on youtube!!
@@chucktaylor5878 I did not read it that way. I'm always grateful for tips. So Thank You! Also, I'm always open to ideas on videos. I can't promise anything, but I'm always interested in learning what might be interesting.
Are you having issues with belt slipping? It happened to me and I see there is an offical Github issue where people have a problem with some carriages not being completely flat, at least the plastic caps and there is not enough force pushing down on those belts.
I have not had this problem. I just went to github to read about the problem. Even crazier, I'm using a 9mm rail and carriage and I don't see this problem. But it's a Hiwin? I don't see how that would make a difference. When I bolt the mounting plate to the rail carriage, thats it, the belt will no longer move. In Github someone mentions a modification that they added to improve it. I think there was a link as well.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I think you just convinced me to buy a Hiwin rail for my X axis :) you said you were going to update us on your can bus installation; how’s that going? Keep up the good work , you’re one of my favorite Voron TH-cam creators.
@@nenaddinic Get the rail with a Z1 preload. The canbus update is slightly on hold. It took some energy to make that last video and I need some time before I jump into it again. But in short, I would recommend a real igus umbilical cable although mine has worked well. The PTFE tube I have the wire enclosed with sometimes hits the back panel and makes noise. Purchase some small and low profile heatsinks for the driver chip on the canbus board. These are probably the big recommendations from me for now. Finally, thank you very much for the compliments!
Hello. Can I use Voron tap and auto z mod?
I don't think so. I actually started trying but decided to abandon that effort. You get most of the benefits of Auto-Z when using TAP.
Was slightly interested until seeing this video realizing you cannot probe with hot nozzle. So how do you overcome the possibility of probing with some dried plastic on the tip throwing off your results? With klicky this is easily overcome by adding a spring to the Z endstop and a heated nozzle there is enough force to push the plastic to the side before activating the endstop.
The idea is that 150c is enough to squish the filament when probing so it does not matter. I think its mostly working. But that is why I also modified the print_end macro to clean the nozzle right after the print is complete. My hope is that it stays clean and minimizes the filament that is left on the nozzle. But that's not 100% true. That said, it seems to be accurate.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop humm maybe but 150 is not very hot for some filaments. I have some sensitive CF coated build plates that i'm pretty sure would get damaged if probed with a 150C nozzle
I personally do a nozzle brush before it probe the bed just food for thought
@@95LegendGS true but a Nozzle cools down to 150 c fast enough to do a wipe on a brush at melting temp and waiting for ti to cool below 150c again for tapping. Could be used while waiting for the bed to heat or the enclosure to heat up
Hello.
Hey there, I had problem here, I just bought cb1, i was confused òn what is ìt 16gb rom or ram I was confused. And one more is it esstial or waste of money
The 16gb is the eMMC storage. You won’t need an sdcard since the storage is built in. Basically a sold state drive that is usually faster and more durable than a SDcard. The cb1 has the cpu power of a rpi3 but more powerful graphics processing. I don’t think the 16gb eMMC is a waste of money since sdcards wear out fairly quickly if they are written to often. When it happens, you need to reinstall everything including the os on a new card. I’ve had this happen to me multiple times. In my Klipper screen video I use the cm4 rip that had eMMC storage and its running great.
Thanks very much. For the opinion I wìll go with 16gb then.
I was about to return the product in store to get 1gb one.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop best youtuber #3d_Printer_guider.
@@deone-entity3935 Thank you!
There is rc8 of tap now that could maybe fix some acceleration issues!
I know they have added 2 50mm screws to stiffen it up. But just to be clear, I actually like TAP and continue to use it. But I'm sure RC8 offers more enhancements. I will switch to it eventually, but the current version is working well enough. Thanks for the comments!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I ordered a tap kit from ldo today and am printing rc8 parts now. Currently with klicky and auto calibrate z I am not happy. Just today the print started to low leaving a bad impression on my textured pei. So that is when I said: I am done with unreliable probing
Thank you for your great videos! I love them all
@@Stahlfabrik So that experience along with some others are why I have been on a quest to eliminate micro switches...Thanks so much for the comments and kind words. I wish you a more reliable future with 3D Printing!
I am not understand the probe accuracy numbers.
4:27 PM
probe accuracy results: maximum -0.985442, minimum -0.992942, range 0.007500, average -0.987505, median -0.986692, standard deviation 0.001987
Are these good numbers? If not where do they come from to fix?
I think your standard deviation is pretty good. You can supposedly hit 0.0000 to 0.0008. You might want to make sure your belt tension is correct for the z-axis and all the screws are tight in the gantry and tool head. But what you are getting should be good enough.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Where you been? I enjoy your videos a lot and have not seen anything for 6 months or so. Many people think you are a pro! I agree. I learn a lot from your stuff. I just installed Cartographer V3. It's way better than the TAP since it does not use the nozzle for measurements. You should try it. No more waiting for the nozzle to go down to 150 from 210 to set Z and then back up to 210 to print.
@@lcdconsultant5252 , I'll need to give it a try. I have taken a break from videos for a while, but I'm working on a few simultaniouly. There will be a few that will appear very soon. Just trying to finsih these off.
I have the tap on order but am using Euclid so have no need for it. Will probably resell it to someone that wants it.
I have used Euclid and like it alot. It works very well. Tap is good, but like everything, there are tradeoffs. Thanks for commenting and watching!
also some linear rails oil ports is blank meaning it's an hole with no ports...that why you were having an hard time with it..
I wish I had known in advance! But, I did get the carriage lubricated. Thank you very much!
Has anyone found a place that has the Tap PCB in stock? Either 5 or 5-24v versions?
Fabreeko had the 5 volt in stock a week ago.
I got mine at KB3D...out of stock it seems...
when i run the first command i get the error message 'Move out of range: -174.000 -174.000 10.000 [0.000]"
Are you homing x & y 1st?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop turns out I had the z homing set to -175, -175... needs to be positive 😅 thanks
@@mr.rajikon3911 I'm glad you found it!
Personally, I would feel a bit more comfortable doing tap if the x axis linear rail was mounted on top of the extrusion. I don't like the weight of the toolhead repeatedly falling on that linear rail like 8-12+ times per print(QGL+Homing+BedMesh).. I guess I'm still super satisfied with klicky and less weight on the toolhead.
What was surprising was how little weight or pressure this creates. It's obviously more, but when you move it by hand, it does not feel like much. But when concentrated on the tip of a hot brass nozzle, it can certainly make a mark...Thank you for the comments and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop thanks for covering this btw. Weren't there users that didn't use all of the linear rails screws and had a rough drop during QGL leave some sort of physical mark when passing the QGL points on a print?
@@Mehecanogeesir I don't know about how the screws factor into this. But on my test bed plate with smooth PEI at higher temperatures, QGL did pit the PEI. Note that this PEI is thin and not one of the thicker/higher quality ones.
The pit I show in the video was one of those. Now if you typically don't print in those areas, it's probably not a problem.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop In most implementations I've seen, people don't have the "retract" after triggering the sensor as slow as you do. Hence my opinion about not liking the weight of the toolhead constantly dropping on the linear rail. I really like how slowly yours does it - it seems like there would be practically no force exerted on the x axis rail. Best wishes!
Enjoyed the video; thanks! That said, with the TAP mod, it seems like the Voron team has gone full "Rube Goldberg" and designed something that prioritizes mechanical "art" over useful, everyday function. The "just because you can, doesn't mean you should' paradigm. Sure, it's more accurate (on paper) but when we're talking about real world, everyday printing with layers of magnet sheets, adhesive sheets, textured print surfaces and even stepper accuracy - it just doesn't matter. The differences in measuring cold vs. hot introduces magnitudes more inaccuracy than TAP solves.
Not enough of a difference to make a difference, despite being 'better'.
I've been using a simple BL Touch arrangement on my Voron for ~9 months now with flawless performance. Which also eliminates the all the Z endstop and probe nonesense, is the same weight as stock (-ish, it's actually a few grams lighter than stock) and provides enough accuracy to not be able to see or tell a difference and doesn't have any temperature restrictions.
A solution that is elegant in it's simplicity, TAP is NOT.
So I've been interested in the BLTouch for some time now. Are you using that in an enclosed printer while printing ABS? Do you get the reliability issues many claim?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have Bltouch on my Troodon (a voron clone of sorts) and I'm not a fan. While it is accurate and hasn't had any temperature problems over the year of heavy use, it gets annoying when the probe pin breaks due a bad print curling up and catching the pin. Or the pin can get warped and mess up the z-offset. Over the year I've probably had to put in over 10 pins. While its not hard, its annoying as you have to unscrew the extruder motor to get to to the pin in the BLtouch. Just my 2c
@@richardclinton8408 Thanks for that feedback. I have not heard of issues like this. Very useful information!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have been using my BLTouch setup fully enclosed with active chamber heating - primarily for PC and PA. Those are just the filaments I use the most. I don't really have an interest in using ABS or ASA.
I did a couple things to address the potential heat issues. I had never experienced them, but figured with the few reports out there, why not address it anyway. My implementation is pretty simple - just a few alternating layers of aluminum tape and kapton tape to act as a kind of heat shield for the probe pocket.
As far as pin warping or breakage issues... I've never experienced that. I figure that as long as you get the BLTouch mounted at the correct height and your print settings are dialed in well enough to prevent parts of the print from jumping up and snagging it, I don't think it's really an issue. I think pin durability issues might be more of a symptom of some other problem.
Even if its not the world.. but most miss out the WIRING.. the fckn WIRING!! Every bot can do mechanics... but electric is not for everyone! :D
Very true. Thanks!
Stupid idea, you are adding wait to the tool head !
Why is that stupid?
After installing tap i’m having issues with the gcode macro commands. I clicked on the sample print benchy in klipper and if hotend is hotter than 150 it will drop the temperature prior to doing a home which is correct & a safety thing to protect pei bed but right after homing i get a message saying Extruder not hot enough and stops the print. It instantly tries to print after homing without trying to reach the slicers hotend temp and it sees that its nowhere near pla temps so it errors out. Is there a gcode that after homing and QGL hotend will pick up and reach the target temperature that the slicer set?
The slicer should be generating the gcode that waits until the proper temperature is reached before anything else . When you look at the generated gcode file, is it in there?