Never brush your 3D printer nozzle again with this Nozzle Scrubber & Purge Bucket.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2022
- Never brush your 3D printer nozzle again with this Nozzle Scrubber & Purge Bucket and have your printer do it for you prior to each print. This video will show you some of the options out there and the version I chose for my Voron printer. This also provides instructions on how to build, install and modify Klipper to make use of the purge brush.
The brush I used can be purchased at Amazon where I receive a commission that directly applies to content creation on this site: amzn.to/3LBreLt
The green filament: amzn.to/3LDNiVG
or
The military green ABS and black ASA filament: www.paramount-3d.com/?ref=o45...
This is the version I used:
www.printables.com/model/2019...
And some other nice ones that are really worth looking at if you need one too:
Servo Mounted: www.printables.com/model/1091...
Decontaminator: github.com/VoronDesign/VoronU...
Bedpan: github.com/Midnite3DP/voron-b...
Instagram: / kapmansbasementworkshop - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 มิถุนายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P3WkqO9gKjo/mqdefault.jpg)
I've just done this mod. Absolutely wonderful, it cleans the Voron Revo nozzle well. Thank you for the clear video and instructions.
I'm glad it's working well for you. Thank you for the comments!
Love your videos. Thanks for creating them. They've been a create help setting up my Voron 2.4 and adding some mods!
Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching. There will be more coming, just too many up in the air at the moment...
Very cool,
i need to tune mine little more. I really like the code and choice of the solution you chosen. Very clean fast and simple.
Thank you! And thank you for watching!
Your videos are very helpful. Thank you very much.
I'm very happy you find them helpful! Thank you for watching!
Thanbk you for your Voron Videos for some time I have been following you. This one I did today! Perfect explanation Great stuff :)
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and subscribing!
One suggestion would be to add a little bit of randomness to the start and end points of the wipe so that the nozzle doesn't make a groove in the bristles after repeated use. Something like changing line 17 of purge.cfg to have Y{start_y+rand_y} and adding a line {% rand_y = random.randint(-2,2) %} somewhere above that would probably do the trick (I haven't tested this) . You could get fancier and randomly adjust the start and end Y on each pass to do diagonal lines, but that is a little too much code for a comment.
That is a cool idea. I may try that. I was actually planning on pulling the brush out and flipping it around if it ever wore out doubling the length of time it could be used. Thank you for watching!
Great idea. Why not do an X, a +, and circles both ways?
@@travistucker7317 You can certainly do that and I'll bet you end up with a cleaner nozzle. However, I think my print bed is a little too far back or I've set the starting coordinates a little too tight to the back of the bed for the printer coordinates. I need to pull the bed forward by about 1cm so the print head can fully move over the full brush back to front. I just was not ready to adjust the brush, bed, z-endstop and Euclid mount for that extra distance. So my nozzle only makes use of the 1st row of bristles. However, the next time I make a major change relating to the bed, I will know better. Thank you for watching!
I like the randomness idea. I managed to get it to work like so:
variable_shift_y_bound_a: -2
variable_shift_y_bound_b: 0
{% set shift_y = (range(shift_y_bound_a * 10, shift_y_bound_b * 10) | random) / 10 %}
G1 X{start_x} Y{start_y + shift_y} F6000
In my case the center of the brush happens to be at the Y home, so that limits the amount I can shift the nozzle, hence the 0 value for variable_shift_y_bound_b. You might be able to use other values if you have more wiggle room.
Great video. For me, I had to put the start value for X(in my case 305 for the 350) and it works like a charm.
Good to know! Thank you for posting!
This is great, Recently had a really bad blockage due to Petg build up and I tweezer the nozzle before every print
But one time I set up and go to bed I wake up to an absolute disaster.. I need to implement this on the front of a Creality CR6 -SE so I'm going to give this my best shot..Thanks for the video
I wish you success. I think it will be very doable. I've been thinking of the same on an old printer of mine. I am considering either the right or left side of the bed as there is space and the print head can be moved there outside of the bed itself. Thanks for watching!
Wow that’s cool. I did think of using a small motor with a dremel brush, activate by x-origin home switch and solenoid/tiny rc servo up/dwn & small motor with timer control, will check if could AND gate with the main board temp for activation.
Thanks for your sharing your ideas💕.
It's not my idea, but I'm spreading the word. Thank you for watching!
exactly what I needed, thanks!
Glad it helped!
Excellent! Thank you.
You are welcome!
So, I have only one suggestion that I'd implement (this is a future project to be sure). Id have the nozzle warm up before running so the nozzle actually releases the material.
Actually, that is the plan. This really does not work if the nozzle is not hot enough to melt the filament. I probably should have made that point clear in the video....Thank you for watching!
Great video. You got me to sub and I'm looking forward to more vids. It's nice to find a channel that has a lot of Klipper content. BTW. How about doing a smart filament sensor video? I ask because I'm trying to put one on my klipper setup and it is not going well. I found very little helpful info about adding it and thought this might make a good vid. Thanks.
Thanks for the sub and watching! I am planning on installing a filament sensor. My old printer had one and I liked it quite a bit. I think I might move those plans up and install it earlier than planned. This is a good idea, thank you for the suggestion. I'll need a few weeks to get this ready.
Looking forward to the vid!
I've followed your guide and it works! My question is how do you add this to the print.cfg? what command do you input? is it just Clean_nozzle in the gcode macro's at print_start?
That is it. Basically any time you want to clean the nozzle, add it into the macro of choice or enter it from the command line in Mainsail/Fluidd and it should work. When 1st starting up the printer, I would not call it until after you have done a home, QGL(automatic bed leveling, however your printer does that) and a second home. That way you can be sure nothing has gone out of adjustment to make sure you don't end up with a head crash. I'm glad to hear it's working for you and thank you for watching!
Great!! Thank you! One question, what should I do in order to perform this action before the homing action and before the z calibration? Which .cfg file should I modify and where? By the way, your tutorials helped me a lot and I implemented many of the tips you gave on my printer. Keep up the good work!
Assuming your printer touches it's nozzle against the z-endstop, when you 1st turn on your printer, you will need to home at least once before running this as Klipper will not allow you to do anything else. Once the nozzle is hot, I would run this macro and then home again for a more accurate home. I'm still running this by hand, but this is what I expect to do in the next day or so in the printer.cfg:
You should have a start print section like this:
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
# Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customize for your slicer of choice
gcode:
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
clean_nozzle ; By now, the nozzle should be hot and lets clean before we home to get the best read
G32 ; home all axes
calibrate_z ; assuming you have this installed and configured
G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed
G1 E5.0 F3000 ; move extruder
Please note that I have not tested this macro change yet. Based on past experience, personally I like to do these things manually for a little while , before I make these changes. Once I've tested it later this week, I'll go ahead and post an update about how this worked.
Thank you for watching and I'm glad you find these useful!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you! I will test it.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Just checking, do you have some updated recommendations for the print_start gcode routine? Thanks for the video!
@@jphalip I'm sorry to say "No", I have no new recommendations. I've decided that I really should do the initial home, QGL and home prior to the brush as if it doesn't, it might miss the brush! That said, have a look in my github just to be sure I have not changed anything.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you so much for the tutorial, super stoked to automate this!
My method of cleaning nozzle is simply stop the nozzle after priming for few seconds, then start printing normally. The blob sticks to bed and the nozzle is clean to print (I use abs most of the time)
That's a good idea! But this happens at the start of the print, correct?
Hi what green filament did you use for your build?? Love the color scheme.
Thank you. It's certainly not the typical color for a printer, but when I saw it, I could not help myself. The filament is from www.paramount-3d.com and the color is "military green". I also used their white. I love their filament. Some of the other colors are pretty amazing too.
Very nice video! I have 2 suggestions/questions: 1- Isn't it better to have the brush along the Y axis to avoid to scratch the hotend case? 2- Isn't it better to heat the nozzle before brushing it?
Thanks! For 1, I honestly don't know. But I can say I have not scratched the hotend or hotend case. It's been working well. For 2, my apologies if it's not clear in the video, but it does not use the brush until the hotend is at the correct temperature for the filament I am using. So, Yes, it's better!
Thank you for the questions , nice words and watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop No worries for the hotend temperature. You should have put it in the code to make it standalone.
I know it's been awhile. I installed the BEDPAN some time ago when you did. However I don't see it cleaning the nozzle most of the time. Are you having success? I tried changing over to the Bambu Lab silicon version which is slightly better but still leaves a lot on the nozzle after a 10 wipe pass. I like silicon because it will not short out the Cartographer3D probe I installed to replace the TAP. The accuracy of the TAP was terrible compared to the Cartographer3D and no contact. I get 0.003 accuracy or better and with TAP I only got .012 on a good day.
I've noticed that when I installed a replacement brush, it had trouble cleaning. I ended up slightly adjusting the nozzle's position since it appeared to be moving between the brushes instrad of directly through a row. Once I did that, it started cleading agian. Try moving the nozzzle a few mm in the Y and see if it starts to improve.
Just getting into this so I'm not sure how macros work. You specified G90 in this macro to put the printer into absolute mode. Does it automatically return to whatever it was in before you ran the macro? If you were working in relative, then ran the macro, is the printer in relative or absolute?
I work using the assumption that it stays in the mode I set until something else changes it. Any STL file will set the mode to whatever it needs. I've never had to worry about resetting back to the original printer settings. It's probably a best practice to set the mode at the beginning of any macro you run to avoid any problems.
Very nice video! But where do i find the bed stop mod you showed in 1:29?
In my case, my bed plate was threaded by the company that built it for this. Assuming you are not interested in replacing your bed and heater, you can add one with the Decontaminator Purge Bucket at github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/abandoned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber as it has one built into the design. Super nice. Thank you for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Ah, those are part of the bed. I'll have a look at the purge bucket. Thank you!
Are these bed stops part of your bed or a mod? I really need that.
In my case, they are part of the bed. However, if you choose to install the 1st purge bucket option, it actually provides you with a bed stop. It's this one: Decontaminator: github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/abandoned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber
would it be possible to add the wipe sequence to start g code
You can certainly do so. You can also place it in your g32 macro:
[gcode_macro G32]
gcode:
SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=1
STATUS_HEATING
M190 S80 # Set and wait for bed to reach temperature for Tap
M109 S140 # Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature
#-------------------------------------------------------------------
SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=Nevermore SPEED=0.90
BED_MESH_CLEAR
STATUS_HOMING
G28
STATUS_CLEANING
CLEAN_NOZZLE
STATUS_LEVELING
QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL
STATUS_HOMING
G28
STATUS_READY
i love the idea of printbed stops, can you share yours please? thanks
Are you referring to the bolts that stop the pei sheet from sliding off the back side?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop exactly!
@@thageri84 So I'm using a new bed that has those drilled and tapped. However, here is the link to the purge bucket that you can build that adds those for you. Decontaminator: github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/abandoned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop That link is not good
@@brandi1233 Seems it moved: mods.vorondesign.com/detail/eiGz71BOprk2GapXbQVgA
Wouldn't a silicone brush be a better option to preserve the nozzle?
I've been told it would be. And you can certainly use one. But in all this time using it, nickel is harder than brass, so no problem so far. My solid brass nozzles show no wear from the brush as well. So I'm not really worried at this point because everything outside of brass is harder.
Is there a reason the purge bucket is there is it's not purging into it?
It did not seem like I needed to actually purge. The brush was good enough and brushed filament ends up in the bucket. But you can certainly configure it to actually purge if you like.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Ah cool. I figured that might have been the case.
Watch out. Don't use a long bristle brass brush. It shorted out on my heater cartridge. And fried my FYSETC Spider board.... New board works now. But order a short version of the brush
Thanks for the tip. I'm certainly going to be careful and not let the nozzle drop too deep.
Does this go slow enough to melt the stiff plastic bristles from an autozone brush? Trying to think of non conductive materials. Ceramic maybe?
@@travistucker7317 You can set the speed to whatever you like, but depending on what plastic the bristles are made from, they could melt and make a mess of your nozzle. Instead of a plastic brush, silicon bristles would be the way to go. It can easily stand the heat. In fact, silicon can probably handle more heat than the your printer can by a wide margin. Some folks are concerned about brass bristles, but if the nozzle is nickel plated like many are, the nickel is much harder. This particular nozzle is brass, so far I don't notice wear, but I have not been using this very long.
i heard doing this can short out your main board? not sure if thats true
I have not heard of this. Do you know how? I've had this working on my printer since this video was published and I'm using a Spider 1.0 mcu. It has been no trouble at all. I'm curious as how this might happen. Thanks for the comments!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop im guessing static electricity
@@jamessmallwood7448 I would think that if the printer is grounded properly, this should not be a problem. I have not had this problem. Even in the middle of winter when it's very dry around here and charges build up. I would not worry about this happening.
Just some constructive criticism, could you consider doing videos in the future without the music overlay?
I am considering this for the next video. Thanks!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Nothing but honest feedback. Your video seemed great, but I had to bail, I couldn’t do the music.
I'm finding this a year later, and 100% agree about the music. Hopefully you've moved away from this in your newer content.
better use slow motion when doing the setup, so we can better observe the X,Y,Z position , and if anything goes wrong, we have time to do something. variable_wipe_spd: 10 # was 200....wait, add this before every home? but in the gcode it says "if not home, home it first", and then when home, it runs "clean nozzle first", then it home first...? does it cause an endless loop?
Not for me. I would home 1st. Then QGL. Then home again since the bed leveling with QGL shifts home slightly.
Main problem with this brush is that is really close to bed and if you print ABS a lot it will eventually melt. I had this problem. Brush just fell apart.
In your case, was it touching the bed? 90% of what I print is ABS and after 7 months, it's holding up. I also wonder if the material the brush is made of might be the problem?
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Hi. No, there was 5mm or even more between bed and the brush. Probably you are right. Brush material might be a problem. Question is: where i can get this brush that will withstand the heat? I just get totally generic brush from my local supplier. This gadget is really cool and help me a lot with cleanliness around bed and even if i will have to replace it every 6 months it is worth it.
@@MateuszWasik-vf4ow This is the one I have been using with no trouble. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XNZ33MZ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks. I will try this one.
@@MateuszWasik-vf4ow I think it has helped quite a bit. Please don't use the exact same values in my cfg files as you will need to come up with your own as each printer is different. Thanks!
i USED THIS SYSTEM FOR CLEAN NOZZLE, but i discover it destroy the nozzle after a while... i removed it..
I have head where some people use a silicon brush instead. I have also heard that you should use a magnet to determine if the bristles are actually brass and not steel which will destroy your nozzle. I have not had any trouble so far.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop ok thank you, i have to try with other brush and check before with magnet, thank you
very usefull video but the background music is infuriating. just like being stuck in elevator for fifteen minutes of interesting conversation but slowly going mad with this cheerfull tune....
All newer videos have no more background music. You are not the only one to complain. Thanks for watching!
Please, don't um
Easier said than done...
hahahaha bambu copie
Who copied who? This predates the Bambu printer....