Building the ERCF v2, Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder by Siboor. Part 3 - Selector, Encoder & Axis
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- This video series shows how to build an Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder known as the ERCF v2 for your 3d printer. The ERCF is a filament changer that allows your 3d printer to switch colors during a print. In this video, I'm using a Siboor kit. You will need to 3d print your own parts with this kit. The kit is organized really well with a toolbox of very high quality parts. It even comes with a BTT BigTreeTech EBB MMB Mainboard and 2209 drivers.
This video is part 3 which shows how to build the selector, encoder and linear axis. Note that while the ERCF is closely associated with the Voron community, the ERCF should work with any 3d printer.
Important links:
- Siboor Kits can be found here at a discount of $15: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=235544...
Note: if you order with a Voron 2.4 or SwitchWire 3d printer, Siboor will provide an additional $15 discount.
Important documentation:
ERCF V2 Github for documentation and stl files: github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Com... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I like the IGUS drylin bearings for the selector. It doesn't move at high speeds and you don't have to worry about lubricating them ever.
Those the RJ4JP-01-08 bearings ? I am considering using them as well.
I believe they are a great fit in this application as well.
@@QEngineering RJZM-02-08 They have an outer shell of harder material that makes them a bit easier to press fit but either will work.
I think the RJZM or normally more expensive though than either the RJ4P or normal LM8UU bearings. Even the cheap knockoffs should work totally fine.
@@grasstreefarmer Thanks for the info 🍻
13:49 a can of spray lithium grease works pretty well. When it comes out, there's lots of solvent so the grease os liquid enough to get into the return tracks for the balls. Then the solvent evaporates and leaves the grease behind.
A bit messy so it will take aome clean up, but works well.
I'm going to purchase a can of this. Thank you!
In my experience, if you have a flat piece of metal (such as a 1-2-3 block) and quickly push the face with the heatset on the metal, it makes them perfectly flat to the face and draws the heat out quickly, making them set in place better.
This is a great idea! I will be using this. Thank you!
For greasing linear bearings, this is how I've done it: put a big glob of grease in one end, and plug the other end with a finger. Push the drive rod through the glob, using the pressure to drive the grease into the interior. The excess will ooze out around your finger - wear disposable gloves for cleanup.
I did this for my sovol SV06+ last week, and the axis' have been nice and quiet ever since. Seems to work, and it's quick. Definitely got enough grease in there! I wiped excess grease off once or twice.
This is a good idea. I may need to disassemble this to get the bearing properly greased. Thank you!
Thanks! Can’t wait to see the Happy Hare part 😅
Me too! Thank you!
Cool video.
The 2 big upgrades I see from the V1 to a V2 is the 20x20 extrusion for the body making it more solid.
And the encoder gear now has wheel on it. This would help with accuracy.and that is super important.
I have my v1 working really well so the upgrade is not necessary.
Awesome to see the changes and improvements.
I'm working on the buffering system now. I can't wait to get this running. I'm convinced the extrusion will help. Thank you for the feedback!
Excellent video!! 🎉
In the siboor kit they send a led for the encoder, you have to print a different part to include the led. I just installed it.
Thanks for the info! I'll go back and take a look. I'm printing the parts for the ERCT right now. I think I will create a video at the end that ties up all the loose ends....thank you for watching and commenting!
Which do you have to print? Not seeing one that makes use of it-unless you're looking at the V23 stamped one in the _errata folder?
@@thephilz Encoder_Left_V623ZZ_Exit_LED_insert.stl
Encoder_Left_V623ZZ_With_Exit_LED.stl
Encoder_Right_V623ZZ_With_Exit_LED.stl
😊
@@thephilz
This 3 stl:
Encoder_Left_V623ZZ_Exit_LED_insert.stl
Encoder_Left_V623ZZ_With_Exit_LED.stl
Encoder_Right_V623ZZ_With_Exit_LED.stl
😊
Hi!
I ask from Siboor disord group which one I should to use, Savox or MG90S mount. And I got answer to use MG90S version. There is not a big difference, but we will see if Savox version works.
Nice video again, thank you.
Some have pointed out that I failed to install the led strip as well. I'll need a video to tie this all together, the buffering system, the cutter as well as ERCF and electronics. It appears I will have a few corrections to make in that video. Thank you for pointing this out!
The difference is the dimensions of the servos. LxWxH Savox is 22.8x12.0x29.4mm and MG90S/GDW DS041MG 23.64x11.60x30.14mm I purchased the Savox from a local hobby store as the Official ERCF v2 Printed Parts Tracker said Savox highly recommended. Savox has an anodized aluminum heat sink as a part of the case.
The build seems fairly straight forward until now, let's see how the setup and tuning goes for you, as that it supposed to be very tricky! I am trying to lobby Trianglelabs to send you their new Tradrack kit to review as well, it's supposed to be a much less complex setup, but there are definitely not as many out there as ERCFs.
I have heard the same. Right now I'm printing parts for the ERCT as I've been told that a buffering system is a must. I would love to get a tradrack kit to try and compare. Thank you very much for helping out and thank you for watching!
thank you!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
I've watched your build so far and its helped me in some things. Have you got to the servo yet because mine from siboor barely moves just wondering if yours is the same way or its just my settings
My servo seems to be running well. But due to recording, I'm not yet running filament through it yet. So I'm not sure the servo is running correctly.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop cant wait to see your video on the calibration. servo is working now which is good but my gear motor is not. cant wait to see your setting to see if
i have something wrong.
thanks for these guides, your printed parts have excellent quality, what settings do you use, do you use the fan to cool abs?
I run the parts cooling fan at 70% while printing, 100% for overhangs with ABS. Do you need any other settings? For me, the key is tuning the extruder and flow rate. I would like to get even better quality prints, I just need to devote some time to it. The top layers are not that great. Thank you for the compliments and watching!
You stole my KB3D hex driver
I just could not pass on that color!