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Been quite nervous to try waterslides for the first time but this video really helped! Do you need to apply a top coat before/after applying decals?

Is there a way to glue pvc plastic together like you do with other plastics using Tamiya extra thin cement?

My son has been using his knife this way but gets alot of cuts on his thumb any advice?

Great video! Thanks for showing the difference.

@4:07 GSI Creos (aka Mr.hobby / gundam) markers typically use alcohol based acrylic paint so you use IPA, wipes right off. If it was Tamiya then its a enamel ink, so either a enamel thinner or lighter fluid. It's not like any of it is "fancy" or hard to find.

My problem with these tools is that I keep dropping them. One single drop from desk height will bend the tip or break the tip

Wow! Thank you so much for the clear, concise explanation! This is great for me since I'm brand new to all the airbrush and painting gunpla. I also decided to tackle one of the most challenging kits as a beginning painter but I'm sure I can accomplish it with all the bits of advice I've been finding on TH-cam. Thank you again!

Can you please share about the grip you're using to hold the gunpla while applying the decal

Can you this method to remove topcoat over factory colour parts? Does 70% isopropyl alcohol works ?

Hi! Thank you for this great explanation. I was wondering if you had any tips. When I apply my water decals and mark fit, when I roll with my qtips the decal moves with it making it rather difficult to put in a good position.

Yoo man this is the truth. I was wondering why this past year why i couldnt finish the same simple kit thats been on my desk for months, kit after kit, beating myself up cuz ive only built 2 kits in 6 months. I realized now that im in a much better place in my life that what you say about basic needs is so true. My basic needs are very well met and no just find myself building without trying and enjoying it. Was hard for a while cuz i love Gundam so much but i needed to learn to love me and my dogs more and get on my feet. Splurging is unnecessary now, i was just buying kit after kit, p bandai's and all, it wasnt making me happy. I enjoy the kit i have now and when i want to, I'll buy another. No more fomo lol.

Constructive criticism -- slow down! The beginning was difficult to understand, but I got the hang of your speech patterns after a while. Or you slowed down. Slow down and enunciate. Not trying to be a jerk, just found it difficult to follow and I assume I'm not alone. Otherwise great video, thanks for the tips!!

If you're building a gunpla in clear plastic version, which nipper to use?

some of my decals are peeling off probably becasue I oversoaked is there a glue I can use to re adhere them on?

after a topcoat the waterslides have a shinier finish than the surface theyre on and it makes the borders on them really visible at certain angles anyone know a way to even them out after the topcoat?

no mark setter or softer?

interesting...to protect these markers can I give them a coat of mr color gx113 or 114 which are lacquer paints?

I do my best work when I'm in a low emotional state, and doing that work helps lift me out of that low. Building, customising, and painting is a very positive experience for me.

do i need the decal solution or can i put them on without it?

Thanks a lot for all these videos! I'm thinking about starting airbrushing mr color lacquers to achieve these kind of finishes easily and I have a couple of questions: - Does the respirator fit good enough with the type of beard you have (I have a similar one) for it to be safe? - Do you have overspray falling around the room with that type of booth? If so, how do you clean lacquer overspray?

just built my first clear kit with the mg jesta cannon and ended up with a bunch of cuts on my fingers lol

Any dark grey paint reserving the use of actual black for shaded area's

for a great beginner clear kit, if you can find at a good price, i recommend bandai ichiban kuji prize e. RX-78-2 solid clear entry grade. the only tools required: very small amount of sanding

People going through multiple nippers per year. You know that with some care you can sharpen these things and adjust them to cut better than new right? Learn to sharpen with the "scary sharp" method. You probably already have the high grit wet/ dry paper you need. Once you've got it down it should be a doddle to touch up your dull tools back to sharper than new. If your going to be buying a new one because the old one is dull then you can't really mess up. I've taken really cheap wire cutters that are next to useless and made them cut beautifully with a dremnel and some sand paper. Give it a go, you can even sharpen disposable hobby knife blades if you're feeling really cheap. (They aren't that sharp when new, i sometimes give the new ones a quick hone)

Im having a hell of a time finding decals for my 1/35 mech... anyone know of a good place to order from?

Hey what if we just try to paint the already available clear plastic? Would it be possible?

3 years late to the party. I have literally just painted my first kit and have started using Water Decals. I've watched a ton of tutorials on them, so I had a fair idea of what to do, but I was missing one step and it was proving hard to get the decal into place, as there was simply to much water. The missing step was drying the decal on a paper towel. A bit of brain fade there. Thankfully I've done put 4 decals on my kit and managed to get them into place.

Thanks for the info. The mohawk broke off of my RG Tallgeese so I needed to know how to use the tamiya extra thin.

I just purchased my first airbrush and I'm excited and terrified (i hate being bad at something). Thanks for your videos!

This literally told me nothing.

Or, you can get a plastic spudger for .50 cents >_>

You could also glue 2-3 tabs together for a harder separator

They look cool but leafing pens at michaels are better there called craft smart

I fortunately already have a nipper in my house coz a relative does construction but nail clippers make GREAT nub removal when you cannot find any filing paper

tamiya matte top coat before or after decals? Or before and after, like warhammer?

Hi, im thinking in investing in an airbrush and i was wondering if you can get these kinds of results with water/alcohol based acrylics only. I really liked the matte metallic you've shown and the candy variants but I wonder if they are achievable without using lacquer...

Holy shit, thank you so much!!

Thank you very much. Fabulous tutorial.

Dude thanks so much! This helped a LOT! my model looks so cool now!

Gunpla is the best thing for my mental health. It makes me feel so good.

I'm just gonna drop a bit of knowledge. Sheen levels are based on the amount of light reflected, and there are several levels Mirror: >99% Chrome: 91-99% Full gloss: 70-90% ( can be sub divided into gloss and high gloss.) Semi-gloss: 41-69% Satin: 26-40% Sheen: 15-25% Eggshell: 10-15% Matte: 1-10% Flat: <1%

How do you panel line or paint your clearplastic?

Good info until the Airbrush recommendation. 1> Single action is no different in spraying only in the control method used to increase/decrease paint flow. Paasche H paint is adjusted at the nozzle allowing precise control without risk a variation due to trigger movement in very intricate work. Single action is viable and has a place and an artist will have both Single and Dual action at their disposal. 2> Gravity fed brushes run into paint flow decreasing as paint is used up, less weight on top lower pressure at the bottom. Faster to refill and less weight than bottles used on Siphon feeds and operates at much lower PSI conserving air compressor work load. Siphon feed needs more PSI to operate but is consistent in pressure all the way to last bit of paint in the bottle. No variation in pressure as with gravity fed models but a little more weighty. 3> Dual action - Steeper learning curve and muscle memory training but once trained provides easier paint flow control with 1 hand. Not as precise as single action when dialed in but most newer dual action brushes have a stop adjustment to make sure your always putting the exact amount of paint without worrying about line variations due to slight finger movements. With that needle stop you can use the dual action as a single action reducing the starting costs and maintaining precise line control when needed. Plamo did a great Job here and you will enjoy your beginning sessions a great deal more following this tutorial. Airbrushing isn't hard, Model Prep is the single most important factor as is getting a decent paint. Stick with your paint choice and after you get to the point you need more you can try other brands and see what you like.

I used nippers for the clear parts on some of my earlier model kits. I noticed that it had tiny cracks when removing the parts from the runners. Got worried so I searched online for a tool that can prevent cracking. Now I use a craft saw for the clear parts. It's not as popular as using a nipper, seeing no videos of it being used by builders. Is it just me having cracks when using nippers on clear parts?

so whats the simplest theory, just for make the part glossyness like default? not too shiny, not too dull..

Great video! You hit the nail on the head, instant gratification and short form media is crushing out attention spans. I'm guilty of it with Amazon prime the instant gratification of being able to open my phone hit buy and its here the next day or so really spoils it. Part of the reason why I started gunpla was to get back to my patient ways.

Love your videos they're so positive and upbeat. This video is part of the reason why I got into gunpla. I wanted something that would allow me to be present and in the moment. I haven't seen you post in a while, I hope all is well and can't wait to see new content!

I personal use the single cut method.

Can you use normal lacquer thinner I don’t hav great access to Mr color thinner