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Thank you Lee, Very well explained, I like how you gave full description while dismantling while also mentioning screws sizes & lengths, this can be confusing. Well done.

Love this video, this help me fix my old printer that's been siting on a shelf for 2 years.

Thanks for video - it helped 💪

Time lapse video created by a retard apparently

I remember the era well. This is when you actually had to know something about operating systems and commit to memory how to use things. I still have my model 100 and an Apple II boxed up with all the peripherals with hundreds of programs with a 24 pin "Image Writer" color printer and a 6 color pen plotter.. Boots up in 3 or 4 seconds. I wish my Intel core I7 based computer would boot in 3 or 4 seconds !

Hello, I directly changed to atmega2560 and compiled the firmware from the Marlin-changes-for-einstart-s branch. After writing it, I cannot boot it and there is no response. What is the reason?

Great video, I'm new to Prusa stuff. I bought a used mk3s+(supposedly) and it came with an MMU2S. It's working fine for single colors and I did not know the Prusa slicing software can stop in the middle of a print so you can change colors, that's super cool. How can I tell if the MMu2s is actually a 2s? Also Your setup has an ir sensor contraption sitting on top of the extruder. Does that come with the MMu2s? mine doesn't have that. What exactly is that part called so I can try to find one, since it looks like it's needed for reliable operation. Thank you for any information.

How do you calibrate the panda sensor height. Mine got loose so it is out of cal?

I WOULD BE OFFENDED IFJOE FRIDAY DID NOT MAKE ME LAUGH

Thank you for posting this!

Ummmm thanks, but that didn’t explain how to replace the extruder motor at all. All you did was tell me how to remove the head and send it in for someone else to do it

Thank you, I thought I had lost a print entirely during a planned filament swap but the hex key trick was able to finally push that stubborn stuck filament back out the other end. I was so worried because I thought the revo hot end couldn't have this happen and I would hate to disassemble my hot end again...

Thanks for this! One thing I'd like to add (at least in my case): double check the gear held onto the extruder motor - the grub screw on mine was loose and I likely wouldn't have noticed except the gear slipped off the end of the motor shaft while i was removing the motor. Good time to check/realign/tighten the gear while it's this far disassembled.

Thanks, that was worth my 30 hours of frustration learning by experience.

@LA3DPrinterRepair Any chance of an MMU3 version of this incredible video tutorial and user resource?

I would like to see a ytp on Perry Mason.

I just bought one i can't wait for it to come in

the mmu 2 & ercf seem over complicated ... and complication leads to poor reliability. i cant help but feel re-purposing the 4 stepper motors involved here into 4 bowden extrudes with a 4 to 1 mixer would simplify things immensely.

Thanks man I unfortunately let this shitty ass filament dry in my hotend. Was able to fix it thanks to you.

Saved me after a 15hr print, needed 100grams more to go when the spool ran out. Tried to feed the new one in and i was on this exact scenario! Thank you, its back up and finishing 😅

Life saver. Thanks.

Great video! Quick question... Did anyone get a printed manual/assembly instruction book with their MMU2? Mine didn't come with one and support said they didn't have any books left and they wouldn't print more as they didn't plan on making anymore MMU2's (they said this while they were still selling them from their website and before they made it public about discontinuing MMU2) They also said it really wasn't for anyone who wasn't very tech savvy as it had lots of issues. Direct from Prusa support!

Thank you so much this helped me. It was clear and to the point.

Great video! thanks for the step-by-step guide.

Thank you this was so simple and such a life saver!

goat

Great video! Amazing how much of that I DID NOT KNOW when I had the machine decades ago. Thanks for the video!

Shoutout for still one of the best YTP I’ve seen even years later. As a cop I think about this at every collision.

This was the most helpful video for the problem I was having. As it wound up the filament had broken and bent sideways. I couldn't heat it and pull the filament out. When I opened up the feeder, I saw the problem cleared it and now everything is working perfectly. Thank You!

This fixed my issue - THANKS!!

my tpu is stuck so i could just wiggel it ;)

helped a lot

Long shot commenting on this video 3 years late, but do you know if anybody has beaten this score and recorded it? So far this is the highest 2 min score I’ve been able to find video proof of

Why is there no love button?

thanks a lot, you saved me ^^ I was already in a panic because I had to change the tube inside... but the problem was solved!

FYI four years ago in Summer 2019, I did a DIY Arcade Spinner using a Chinese optical rotary encoder and Arduino Pro Micro MCU/AVR "Micro-controller". It can be found on git-hub pages, craigb-spinner, for Arcade-Spinner. December 2022, I posted modded software, vari-SpinSpeed, from original Spinner 600ppr x4 Quadrature output with LSR (/2) to work as a 1200ppr device. Same adjusted output as a Turbo twist. The software also includes a routine to do a "divide function" as fast as possible without using Arduino pre-built math library for divides as AVR do not support hardware divides. If you read in the community the software divide is somewhere 300 clock cycles but a subtract 5-10 cycles. Division is subtraction until remainder is larger than divisor. You move the quotient to the mouse movement. Since you don't spin the spinner in hyper mode, the dyi function works great as you should not exceed 3-4 mouse pixels. You will need two buttons to adjust the spinner sensitivity and the Pro Micro outputs a USB mouse HID device as either x or y. Divide is from 2 to 50. You may want to add 1 function back in for the Turbo Twist with skip divide logic when divisor equals one. I was going to add in a pre-doubler (LSL x2) to add a 1/2 divide feature. Divide: / 3 x 2 = 1.5, / 4 x 2 = 2.0, / 5 x 2 = 2.5 some games require more precision earlier on.

I broke that little black clip/collar holding the ptfe tube to the hot end What’s it called and where do i buy one

Thanks for the video. I recently had my first stuck filament and ended up using the supplied needle nose plyers to work it up and out. After getting the filament out I recut it at 45 degrees passed the stripped filament area and then reloaded it. There was a nice blob that extruded before it went back to being smooth, obviously my problem. Did a test print and good to go again. The other videos I watched had the basic "heat, unload, reload" which didn't work. 3 years later and your video is still saving people from a headache, much appreciated. PS. I really enjoyed your initial comment basically saying, "It doesn't matter how we got here, but we are here." Made me laugh out loud because it is so true.

Baa-loney. Scotch Brite is a band aid. Problem is signal wire connection at the nozzle/heater. I fixed that and my Taz 6 does its leveling/cal routine without any problems. I know it is a pain when leveling fails, I struggled with it for a long time, but after I fixed that wire connection kicking off a print is automatic. Hate to hear anyone trash the Taz 6, it is a good machine.

I watch this with my coworkers once a week, all time classic YTP

Prusa should have released this quality video, excellent explanations, thank you

>.> Am I dumb or is he not saying instuctions for all the steps? Flying through those options like its a speed run...on a tutorial video. Really?

thanks mate, you helped me fix my issue. I use a metal skewer, worked a treat

Do you know why my collet might be stuck in the heatsink? after I had this issue, I also had an extremely hard time getting the collet out of the top of the heatsink. I couldn't push it down at all. I put the prusa together but the heatsink came with the collet and ptfe tube already assembled. did the person assembling the ptfe tube and heatsink possibly assemble the collet incorrectly or did the printer jam it somehow?

thank GOD you posted this video. I've just started 3d printing and made this mistake. I posted to the prusa forums and so far no one has nailed the culprit of my filament getting jammed inside the ptfe tube. I really just wanted to know the mistake I made so I can NEVER do it again. So, basically NEVER turn off the printer if it's not cooled down first?

The piano string trick worked for me had to open the side and cut the filament to be able to press on it. Thanks for the video

This video is unbelievably helpful. Best video on the tube I’ve seen.

Why not scan the part to "rough in" the shape and save time?

Thank you!

Can you do a cold pull with petg? If it's not recommended will a PLA cold pull clean residue left from petg?