Prusa MK3S Heat Creep PTFE Swap
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2020
- Filament really stuck, you may be dealing with the effects of heat creep - when the printer is shut off while hot and molten filament hardens in the PTFE throat in the cold-side of the hotend.
Herein I will describe and demonstrate the procedure for swapping the PTFE liner in your hotend with a spare.
Don't switch off your machine hot, ever; and this wont happen to you!
Thank you Lee,
Very well explained, I like how you gave full description while dismantling while also mentioning screws sizes & lengths, this can be confusing. Well done.
well you saved the day. Just a Mom trying to help her kid navigate 3D printing. Out of my depths but you just made it easy to understand and get us back to printing!! Thank you.
Congratulations! If you want to stay sharp we’re running a show every Thursday 6p PST here on YT and Twitch, tune-in and help steer the show!
We’re just getting the ball rolling and I’m going to attempt to keep the ongoing conversation relevant for folks just getting into the hobby!
Thank you for this clear and concise tutorial! I encountered a clog I could not simply push/pull out last week and now I'm back to printing!
Thank you for THE best video on the entire internet ... you have turned the incredibly intimidating into something manageable. Much appreciated.
This comment and hitting 1K subs made my day, what should I cover in my next video?
Thank you so much for this! I had the Prusa Knowledge Base guide to follow but seeing the process in action was very helpful!
This was a real help. Very thorough!
Really appreciate the video it was exactly what I needed. Straight to the point love it.
Found that super helpful 👍🏻. My first PTFE tube blockage that took me a while to work out (printing was misbehaving, slow process of elimination, then got a total blockage!). Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for making this video man, this helped me out tremendously. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for this video. It was just what I needed!
Thank you, this video was perfect and helped me out as well. I had a nozzle adjusted wrong and caused a slight buildup of plastic in the bottom of the hotend. Totally blocked filament from coming through. Once it was all apart I broke it free with the smallest hex driver and then turned it upside down and tapped the hotend until the blocked plastic fell out. Wouldn't of been able to disassemble without this video!
this was exactly what i was looking for! thank you for the detailed video
Wow this was extremely helpful and I learned a lot. Thank you!
Although I didn't have your exact issue, I had a problem where the heat break / block became loose. This saved me rear in fixing it. Cheers and thank you!
Thanks for this! One thing I'd like to add (at least in my case): double check the gear held onto the extruder motor - the grub screw on mine was loose and I likely wouldn't have noticed except the gear slipped off the end of the motor shaft while i was removing the motor. Good time to check/realign/tighten the gear while it's this far disassembled.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much :)
Thank you for this video. It was just what I needed and very easy to follow.
This video was great. Informative and to the point. Great job. I was able to fix my printer issue.
Thanks Heaps - I had this exact issue, and fixed in a few minutes thanks to your video.
Great video. I'm new at this and was not at all sure about doing this. This video really helped. Thanks
Thanks for the video! Extremely helpful!
Great guide, also check the tube if it’s empty then unscrew and check the top of the hottende
Great video this helped me heaps! :D
Great video!!! Thanks a lot.
This was so helpful! Thanks a lot!
Thanks a lot, really helpful.
Thank you for this helpful video!
Thank you I wasn't aware of the collar
Going to try this. Great video.
You get stuck, reach out. We’re here to help.
Thank you so much this helped me. It was clear and to the point.
Like the others, Thank you very much. I appreciate you making this video. I also immediately subscribed. Also thank you for the advice to not turn off the printer before is has cooled under 100 C .
Great video!!!! Super helpful, thank you :)
Great content !!!
Thank you so mutch! I tryed fixing the problem for houers, with the Video it was done in 15 mins !
If you liked it and it saved you time, consider donating a buck, or more, and thanks!
Time is money and a penny saved is a penny earned, and I’d bet your time is worth more than chump change.
I need more than pennies to keep this show on the road, and I’ve frankly got better things to do than throwing my time at strangers on the internet.
So Nikita, don’t expect any more quick easy to follow videos saving your time/money unless I get some of your time, or money.
Either way, keep on printing, have fun and tell your friends, and you’re welcome.
Thank you for this video. Just unboxed my mk3 and made all the mistakes you discribe. Was able to fix my clog with your help (even heating up the nozzle to remove a stubborn ptfe). Thankful i can get back to printing!
Thank you so much!
thank GOD you posted this video. I've just started 3d printing and made this mistake. I posted to the prusa forums and so far no one has nailed the culprit of my filament getting jammed inside the ptfe tube. I really just wanted to know the mistake I made so I can NEVER do it again. So, basically NEVER turn off the printer if it's not cooled down first?
thank you good sir
You are quite welcome. 🖨👍🏻
Very helpful video thank you. I decided to replace the heat block at the same time. Is there an easy way of getting the thermistor out of the block. I heated it up but was not successful. Do you recommend running a silicon sleeve to stock the blocking leaving black burnt bits behind. Thanks a lot.
Firstly: the thermistor is retained with a 1.5mm grub screw, typically you need to heat the block to permit the grub screw to rotate because the filament may work in there and effectively lock the screw. Second: Prusa doesn't run socks on their farm, nor do they supply them with printers, and thus we don't recommend socks, for many reasons not just because it's "prusa normal".
I’m new to printing. My filament got stuck mid print.
I believe the collet above the tube loosened a bit. I had to remove the heat block to fix. But I didnt have thermal paste so it hasn’t worked right since. Paste is finally here. I will try again.
After pulling this apart several times. I’m not too excited about the design. Decided to buy the new Bondtech LGX to hopefully eliminate a few flaws.
If you’d like help you can reach out to Prusa chat or you can reach out to us.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Hey, that’s pretty cool. Thanks for the offer. Subscribed and Liked.
hi there i'm having a problem that the hot end is not heating up eg the nozzle. Would you know what this is? is it the Hot end heater cartridge thermostat ?
Hey Lee great video thx for sharing! i had a loose PTFE tube like yourself and i tried switching it out, but the new one wouldnt sit tight in the black sleeve, im a noob so only thing i could do was buying a new assembled hot end, do you think Prusa should start making better hot ends or are there another thing i can try next time this happens, the old hot end was only 1 month old, and like in your video there was play in the tube and i just couldnt make it sit tight, very frustrating lol
thx again for your great video
Sounds like a fouled PTFE coupler, you can get them new from Filastruder for cheap, that’s the actual bit that retains the PTFE tube.
Great video! I have an mk3, is the process a lot different? Any tips for doing the PEFE sawp on an mk3? From what I have read so far the print head is different in some ways from the mk3s p rint head so thought I would ask.
So honestly if you're going to pull it apart to swap out a PTFE you might as well bite the bullet and go with the MK3S upgrade, it's worth it for the easier serviceability of the hotend without completely unmounting the assembly from the carriage. If you'd like to buy a set of parts, feel free to reach out. Cheers!
@@LA3DPrinterRepair thx have the upgrade kit but wondered if it was worth the upgrade. Seemed like a lot of work to do the upgrade. But you think it is worht it? I have the hardware just need to print the 3d parts.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair What do you thnk about doing the Original Prusa i3 MK3/S to MK3S+ upgrade kit instead? You are so right trying to get the hot end out. Its a huge pain :) Hard to get to the right angle to drop out.
I am about to replace my PTFE tube after my filament would get jammed during every print until yesterday where it jammed and got stuck in the PTFE tube. I think my issue was that the collet that holds the tube in place would go down and cause issues. Do you think using a collet clip is useful at all, I noticed your machine didn't have one either?
The collet clip is there to keep the collet from getting depressed, which would let the PTFE go slack; once the collet is "set" with the PTFE bottomed out properly, it shouldn't move.
Prusa supplied E3D hotends don't come with collet clips.
My filament got stuck mid-print, well actually just 5 mm up, so not because of heat creep, maybe dirt. Anyways, since I plan on printing flexible some time in the future, I think I'll use Capricorn tubing. It would be nice to know the exact length of the tube. Is it worth it to "sharpen" the PTFE tube so that it nearly wedges in between the cogwheels?
Tube length is documented in the Prusa KB for every printer; there is also a specific chamfer schedule on the input and output ends of the tube; capricorn is not beneficial in this application; you should just pop in the spare. Flexibles don't tend to be problematic on the Prusa, the extruder has a very short throw and it's already direct drive, no extra modifications are required; though the MK3S+ extruder has an even tighter filament path, somewhat to the detriment of MMU2S operation.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Cheers mate
Do you know why my collet might be stuck in the heatsink? after I had this issue, I also had an extremely hard time getting the collet out of the top of the heatsink. I couldn't push it down at all. I put the prusa together but the heatsink came with the collet and ptfe tube already assembled. did the person assembling the ptfe tube and heatsink possibly assemble the collet incorrectly or did the printer jam it somehow?
Maybe the filament was melted to both the ptfe tube and the collet which stuck the collet in the down position? idk
Awesome video!!! Quick question… I am using the exact printer in the video. I replaced my nozzle and became a water that my heater block moved side to side rather easily while I replaced the nozzle… Will this cause an issue?
Yes it will certainly cause issues if your hotend isn’t assembled correctly, review the E3D v6 assembly instructions. Proper break to nozzle engagement within the block is absolutely critical.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Would love to learn more about this specific topic and I think it might be video-worthy just like this video was (the first min or 2 explaining how the filament can harden inside the PTFE). For whatever reason I have had a heck of a time changing nozzles (on MK3S+) and more often than not I end up with a "loose" heat block and not sure what the next step should be to correct that.
@@tombellucco7155 I just hit 1K subs and the Revo was just announced, so yea, excellent suggestion for a vid; just been so busy! Reach out via twitter (@la3dpr) or our website and I'll send you some stickers!
How to do it on a i3 mk2?
I broke that little black clip/collar holding the ptfe tube to the hot end What’s it called and where do i buy one
www.filastruder.com/products/bowden-couplings-all-types?_pos=3&_sid=d1e8cfb5a&_ss=r&variant=32354109764
Bowden Coupling, PTFE Collet.
I did all of this and wondered what happens to an eventual clog of filament that would get stuck in between the ptfe tube and the rest of the extruder? I feel like changing the ptfe tube would not remove it because you’d probably put it right back where it was. I don’t know if that makes any sense to you. I feel like my ptfe tube is not the issue, that maybe there’s still a gap down there.
PTFE swaps are typically for a heat-creep situation, there really shouldn't be any molten material at the interface of the heatbreak and the PTFE, that'd be nuts.
Nice video but I never put all screws in the same bucket. It is confusing for a beginner and really best practices when disassembling a machine...but otherwise great video!
Thank you thank you thank you! Just got my MK3s and already had a clog....
You shouldn’t be getting clogs if you’re following best practices...check my operator intro video.
The mini doesn’t have the locking collar as is customary in these type systems (air compressor etc.). Prusas design for how the PTFE tube is seated is very very bad. I’m not sure if you’re familiar with the process but you basically need to keep the PTFE tube clamped between the block and the top of the filament port while you tighten the grub screws into the heatsink. Unfortunately this is a very inefficient design flaw IMO. I have been trying to fix the heat creep PTFE Seating problem ever since I noticed underextrusion/barely any extrusion and clicking from the extruded gearing mech. After finally localizing the PTFE searing problem the solution is very hit and miss. Is there a replacement possible where the PTFE tube is replaced by a metal tube? Or is the tensile flexibility of the PTFE a necessity for the proper functioning of the assembly?
You're somewhat mistaken in how the Mini PTFE works: the "olive" coupler at the top "pinches" the PTFE in place after the heat-break gap distance is set and fixed with the grub screws; is it fantastic, no, but it's fine.
If you want to get adventurous, tap the Mini heatsink for M6 and thread on a standard E3D heat-break.
There Is no coupler on my model. I just received it last December. Mini+
Lee Olivares Im an engraver and work with a lot of pneumatic lines. I Understand how the tube collet coupled works.
@@AbsoluteRecoil Please review: help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/how-to-replace-a-hotend-ptfe-tube-mini_119449
Step 5, part in question: "Lower Fitting".
Lee Olivares Step 11 is the design flaw to which I’m referring, “Push the heaterblock up against the fitting with a reasonable force. No need to bend the entire axis. This will pre-stress the PTFE tube inside. Now, it is important to keep the pressure.”
They have designed it in such a way as to replace a standardized fitting with an invariable procedure hinging upon handheld force.
Very bad design. Why would they abandon the pneumatic tube push in fitting? “Reasonable force” at the end of the day is subjective.
Do you do the upgrade to the +
Yes, you can reach me via text at (909) 437-0250 or email lee@braains.net.
I built my own mk3, and didn’t realize that there was supposed to be a taper on the ptfe tube end that is seated inside the hot end. What will happen without a taper here?
Which taper? The taper at the top keeps the filament lined up for loads, the taper at the bottom just keeps the feed to the heat-break continuous; the answer is: always use correct parts and don't take shortcuts on assembly.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Do you have a way to make those tapers? I would like to switch from white ptfe to capricorn tube for nylon printing. I am seriously about to make my own taper cutting box if not.
@@mophie6941 Capricorn on the V6 is pointless, it’s an all metal hotend, the PTFE stops inside the cold side, it doesn’t get heat much above ambient. You do not need Capricorn in a genuine V6 to print higher temp materials, period. There is documentation on the chamfers and tools to do it if you don’t have spare PTFE liners handy.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair I see, well that's really good to know. I was really concerned about the PTFE fume from printing nylon or higher temps. This just show me that : I should've done more research, hahaha. Thank you for the information
@@mophie6941 you’ll see these upgrades proposed on Creality extruders but in all honesty it’s a bunch of bunk: lies atop lies: the Creality extruder is PTFE lined down to the nozzle making it only suitable for PLA temps, Capricorn or not, Capricorn does NOT allow you to print PET/ABS/Nylon, sure you’ll be able to print a couple jobs but the PTFE liner Capricorn or not will rapidly degrade and we’ve seen people chase that dragon until their pockets are empty.
Fn happens because cura just decides to crash but continue printing!!! Layers are perfect but this happens alot... if I use repetier host with cura not as nice layers but no heat creep go figure...... I'm sure I'm missing a setting in cura somewhere haha. Soooooooo many settings!!!.. in saying this I did just get my 13 pro b geeetech *ebay* to print with rainbow silk pla.... then decided to try ultimaker cura.... instant regret haha
..
I should add that the geeetech i3 pro b does not have a fan for the heat break.. i do have one but I removed it as I was just piggy backing the other fan I was worried about have issues with voltages etc :/
Has heatsink and fan at the stepper motor and gear assembly but not the heat break... I'm considering getting copper washers and running them to try and get some surface area for the fan I removed so it does something !!
Not able to press the black ring. There is no movement at all :(
Send it in for service, we'll be happy to assist.
What is the PTFE length?
Prusa knowledgebase has this documented, we also have the parts if you want to buy a set.