The included 3mm nylon must be firmly inserted to the receptacle on the back of the extruder, all the harness wires are retained by the cloth harness wrap and zip ties on the extruder rear mounting plate, your wires should not be sagging if everything is assembled following the instructions. 🖨👍🏻
I know you said you printed your own parts in this video but have you heard anything about the PINDA probe slouching or not sitting perpendicular resulting in slightly skewed with the recent MK3S kits? Mine became off a few days after I finished building, I was able to fix it and be perpendicular again with a zip tie to make it straight again. But right now my machine is down they're sending me a new Einsy board because my hotend thermistor plug and input on the board burned out, you could see the burned mark. Maybe I'll rebuild my extruder while I wait and follow you're guide closely.
So the extruder body and the cover were revised to add additional material; in the case of the latest R5 extruder body where the PINDA mounts, it’s just got a bit of a buttress...if you’re doing one do both, and be sure to print them in PET.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Is the R5 the best extruder body version for the MK3S (not +) right now? I'm working with a C3 and the part where the pinda attaches is cracked and looking to get the latest and greatest. thanks
Howdy cobra6114, so the extruder only has two sizes: most everything is 2.5mm hex and there is one 1.5mm hex holding the IR Sensor and the grub screw holding the extruder gear. Cheers. 💪🏻🖨👍🏻
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I wish Id seen this before following the PRUSA instructions. The where more confusing than helpfull. Your instructions are great THANKS!
How do you keep the hot end wires up? They tend to sag dangerously close to the build layers.
The included 3mm nylon must be firmly inserted to the receptacle on the back of the extruder, all the harness wires are retained by the cloth harness wrap and zip ties on the extruder rear mounting plate, your wires should not be sagging if everything is assembled following the instructions. 🖨👍🏻
I know you said you printed your own parts in this video but have you heard anything about the PINDA probe slouching or not sitting perpendicular resulting in slightly skewed with the recent MK3S kits? Mine became off a few days after I finished building, I was able to fix it and be perpendicular again with a zip tie to make it straight again. But right now my machine is down they're sending me a new Einsy board because my hotend thermistor plug and input on the board burned out, you could see the burned mark. Maybe I'll rebuild my extruder while I wait and follow you're guide closely.
So the extruder body and the cover were revised to add additional material; in the case of the latest R5 extruder body where the PINDA mounts, it’s just got a bit of a buttress...if you’re doing one do both, and be sure to print them in PET.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair witch C version is R5? Pretty sure I have the latest my kit is less than a month old
Currently working on your guide for the extruder. Almost done I'll let you know
These parts were revised a while ago, a new kit will have the latest parts. If your bearings are dry, lube them before you install.
@@LA3DPrinterRepair Is the R5 the best extruder body version for the MK3S (not +) right now? I'm working with a C3 and the part where the pinda attaches is cracked and looking to get the latest and greatest. thanks
What size Wera Allen Driver are you using? Metric/Imperial etc...
Howdy cobra6114, so the extruder only has two sizes: most everything is 2.5mm hex and there is one 1.5mm hex holding the IR Sensor and the grub screw holding the extruder gear.
Cheers. 💪🏻🖨👍🏻
Lee Olivares Thanks for the quick reply. How about for the main assembly of the MK3S?