Great video Elin.. For those that are about to embark on this sort of engine recon for the first time, it will prove very useful. Wish I'd have had this source of visual reference when I was learning. the dark arts of engine strip down & rebuilding ...
I’m glad you found the source of the lack of compression, and that it’s a cheaper fix than a rebore. There’s nothing worse than not finding the culprit, and wondering forever what the issue was! Another great video. Weird that Triumph couldn’t even proof read their own manuals properly. It’s not a surprise that the British car industry eventually tanked, given that sort of behavior.
I believe that the Mk III GT6 used Nimonic 80 exhaust valves instead of the previous steel valves. Same engine I believe was used in the Vitesse 2 litre Mk II which is what I had. My engine developed a "squeak" and lost power. On removing the cylinder head I discovered that the head was cracked between the inlet and exhaust valves on cylinder no. 1. Carefull checking revealed that the head was also cracked between the valves on cylinder no. 6. So I had a local machine shop machine out the head and insert new valve seats with the boring for one seat cutting a little into the other seat so removing the crack. On collecting the head the machine shop said that the crack on cylinder position no. 1 JUST cleaned up. On buying new exhaust valves I had planned for the whole set of 6 but when told the cost which was about 7 times the cost of normal exhaust valves I bought just 2. After cleaning up the remaning 4 valves I realised that they were Nimonic 80, a high temperature nickel alloy whch I had encounted before on my high performance motorcycle. Overdrive was virtually mandatory on that car as it was possible to over rev. it in top gear. Did 115 mph flat out.
Its quite accepted to have the valves faces and tips reground. This can be done at a fraction of the cost of new valves. And as long as the stems aren't worn, makes them as good as new.👍
Do you think the exhaust valve issues came about from sitting so long or is it down to me not knowing how to properly tune the carbs? Back then there were no TH-cam video professors teaching about anything and everything. Basically trial and error. I wish this information was available to me back then. Thanks for showing us what needs to be done and more importantly why it needs to be done. Best of health to you and your family, Dave included, cheers.
Yeah, I think it was a bad carb setup and maybe even ignition timing. It wasn't burning the fuel properly and it was creating a lot of carbon. On top of that the two exhaust valves that sat a little open all that time rusted from the humidity in the air... But nothing unexpected. I also don't look the same way I used to 35 years ago LOL. Wow, I was 13 when you turned the key off the last time :) Merry Christmas to your family too, George included :)
It remember me of my education of car mechanic, our school class are all on Priwall where the chamber of crafts has a school. I had an engine from VW K70 it was a car was designed by NSU.
When did you restore that piano? It plays perfectly, you must have a set of tuning forks in one of your toolboxes😀😀. It's a really original clip, I laughed out loud, well done!!👏👏 I was wondering about the pistons too, I can see that you are going to measure them, what struck me was the staining down the sides, but maybe that is not unusual, no-one commented on it in the last videos, so I thought it's probably typical. Great video!! Good luck from Spain!!
Elin, Весела Коледа! Vesela Koleda! I'm amazed about the crud buildup on the exhaust valves being possibly (?) caused by bad carbs/setup; didn't think it could produce such buildup! It will be interesting to see if the carbs can be rebuilt so this result does not happen in the future. I'm thinking that worn butterfly bushings would only lean out the mixture and cause a hotter burn to remove carbon accumulation; or am I 'grasping at straws'???
You are right. I was just discussing with the PO the same. He said that 35 years ago he was having troubles with the carbs and didn’t have enough knowledge about tuning them. They might not be in a bad shape, they might just need tuning, but we will see when we get there. Весела Коледа и на теб! 😃
Hmm, I never heard of that. I will fit stainless valves, but what usually “burns” is the valve seat and not so much the valve. How does the stainless valve protect the seat?
@@RustyBeauties I think it’s to do with the difference in hardness but I was told this by Richard Good (Goodparts)& he is a very experienced triumph engine builder/racer Regards Say🔧🏴
Great content as always. I would recommend measuring the diameter of your existing pistons vs specifications. When I rebuilt my TR6 engine, I was surprised to find them just under spec.
Yes, I will do that. Even though I said in the video I am happy with the way the cylinders are, I am still not quite sure. I want to measure the pistons too and see what the clearance is
There was a version of that Triumph 6 cylinder engine in the UK that was a 1600 cc. It was fitted to early Vitesse's (1962....ish). Maybe this is why there is the smaller mains dimension and your rogue short front plate gasket.🤔
I will measure the combustion chamber and decide about the skimming. I am not a fan of lots of HP. I do not race my cars and I don’t see a reason to replace the camshaft for few more horses. This car has more than enough for what it is.
Nice assessment of the condition of your engine, since your friend has started working on Alfa spiders, you should do a similar one, but select a Fiat spider 124 to broaden your audience. Lol, lots of rusty Bella's from a similar time period around, with a wonderful Twin Cam engine, anyways, good job as always.
There are so many different bella's out there, but there is only one of me :) I have no time for everything. I do not tailor my projects based on the demand on TH-cam. I tailor my videos based on what project I work on in the moment. And the projects that I work on are the ones that the wind blows my way LOL. You know what I mean. I find that the Triumph community in Canada is lacking enough mechanics so I am happy to be stuck to these Rusty Beauties in particular as there is always someone out there, who needs my help :)
Chris, I appreciate you clearly love Alfas but in my very humble opinion these channels are held in very high esteem mainly because of the old English classic cars that both Elin and David restore so wonderfully. (David is only refurbishing the Alpha on behalf of his friend Doc friend basically because he can be trusted to do a wonderful job on practically anything!) Alphas are truly lovely but I hope neither David or Elin are tempted to diverge in that way. I bet there’s some great Alpha channels out there too. Respect and best wishes for Christmas.
Looks like the car "failed" just in time to prevent excessive wear in the engine... realistically it just needed a head refresh and timing chain 35 years ago, then patch the rusty bodywork with aluminium and glass fibre like on the red Mk1 and keep driving it as long as possible ! Is it an overdrive car ? That will certainly affect the wear to some extent.
BL Repair Operation Manual: 0.002 - 0.003" BL Competition Preparation Manual: 0.006". Based on this I would say that at max of 0.0026 bore wear you are fine and if your going racing then you need a little more honed out of block. I guess you are meaning 0.0005 max taper not 0.005
Also I believe the factory had 2 grades of bore 0.0000 to -0.0005 and + 0.0001 to +0.0006 and pistons were graded to suit either bore. So you also need to check piston grade you have to see full picture. Thanks again Elin for your great videos.
Great video Elin.. For those that are about to embark on this sort of engine recon for the first time, it will prove very useful. Wish I'd have had this source of visual reference when I was learning. the dark arts of engine strip down & rebuilding ...
I’m glad you found the source of the lack of compression, and that it’s a cheaper fix than a rebore. There’s nothing worse than not finding the culprit, and wondering forever what the issue was! Another great video. Weird that Triumph couldn’t even proof read their own manuals properly. It’s not a surprise that the British car industry eventually tanked, given that sort of behavior.
I loved the young pianist... pedals and all.
LOL, I forgot about that and recently stumbled on that old video. I laughed as if I saw it for a first time. So I included it again.
The pedals though!!
😂😂😂😂😂
I'm dying over here!
Another great tutorial! Thanks
The piano was great. You need to teach Rusty to play for the next video. 😁
Haha
I believe that the Mk III GT6 used Nimonic 80 exhaust valves instead of the previous steel valves. Same engine I believe was used in the Vitesse 2 litre Mk II which is what I had. My engine developed a "squeak" and lost power. On removing the cylinder head I discovered that the head was cracked between the inlet and exhaust valves on cylinder no. 1. Carefull checking revealed that the head was also cracked between the valves on cylinder no. 6. So I had a local machine shop machine out the head and insert new valve seats with the boring for one seat cutting a little into the other seat so removing the crack. On collecting the head the machine shop said that the crack on cylinder position no. 1 JUST cleaned up. On buying new exhaust valves I had planned for the whole set of 6 but when told the cost which was about 7 times the cost of normal exhaust valves I bought just 2. After cleaning up the remaning 4 valves I realised that they were Nimonic 80, a high temperature nickel alloy whch I had encounted before on my high performance motorcycle.
Overdrive was virtually mandatory on that car as it was possible to over rev. it in top gear. Did 115 mph flat out.
Its quite accepted to have the valves faces and tips reground. This can be done at a fraction of the cost of new valves. And as long as the stems aren't worn, makes them as good as new.👍
good news the block is usable.
👍Great work as always. I need to get my crank to the machine shop!! LOL with the keyboard work!
Elin, the 2" main journal diameter is for the GT6 Mk1 engine, which had smaller bearings.
Do you think the exhaust valve issues came about from sitting so long or is it down to me not knowing how to properly tune the carbs? Back then there were no TH-cam video professors teaching about anything and everything. Basically trial and error. I wish this information was available to me back then. Thanks for showing us what needs to be done and more importantly why it needs to be done.
Best of health to you and your family, Dave included, cheers.
Yeah, I think it was a bad carb setup and maybe even ignition timing. It wasn't burning the fuel properly and it was creating a lot of carbon. On top of that the two exhaust valves that sat a little open all that time rusted from the humidity in the air... But nothing unexpected. I also don't look the same way I used to 35 years ago LOL. Wow, I was 13 when you turned the key off the last time :)
Merry Christmas to your family too, George included :)
It remember me of my education of car mechanic, our school class are all on Priwall where the chamber of crafts has a school. I had an engine from VW K70 it was a car was designed by NSU.
When did you restore that piano? It plays perfectly, you must have a set of tuning forks in one of your toolboxes😀😀. It's a really original clip, I laughed out loud, well done!!👏👏
I was wondering about the pistons too, I can see that you are going to measure them, what struck me was the staining down the sides, but maybe that is not unusual, no-one commented on it in the last videos, so I thought it's probably typical.
Great video!! Good luck from Spain!!
Elin, Весела Коледа! Vesela Koleda!
I'm amazed about the crud buildup on the exhaust valves being possibly (?) caused by bad carbs/setup; didn't think it could produce such buildup! It will be interesting to see if the carbs can be rebuilt so this result does not happen in the future. I'm thinking that worn butterfly bushings would only lean out the mixture and cause a hotter burn to remove carbon accumulation; or am I 'grasping at straws'???
You are right. I was just discussing with the PO the same. He said that 35 years ago he was having troubles with the carbs and didn’t have enough knowledge about tuning them. They might not be in a bad shape, they might just need tuning, but we will see when we get there. Весела Коледа и на теб! 😃
Elin, if you fit stainless steel valves, you don’t have to fit hardened exhaust valve seats !
Regards,
Sandy.🔧🏴
Hmm, I never heard of that. I will fit stainless valves, but what usually “burns” is the valve seat and not so much the valve. How does the stainless valve protect the seat?
@@RustyBeauties I think it’s to do with the difference in hardness but I was told this by Richard Good (Goodparts)& he is a very experienced triumph engine builder/racer
Regards
Say🔧🏴
Great content as always. I would recommend measuring the diameter of your existing pistons vs specifications. When I rebuilt my TR6 engine, I was surprised to find them just under spec.
Yes, I will do that. Even though I said in the video I am happy with the way the cylinders are, I am still not quite sure. I want to measure the pistons too and see what the clearance is
Great video. "Busty Cuties!"
😂
There was a version of that Triumph 6 cylinder engine in the UK that was a 1600 cc. It was fitted to early Vitesse's (1962....ish). Maybe this is why there is the smaller mains dimension and your rogue short front plate gasket.🤔
Will you skim the head for a higher CR and consider an uprated cam and headers? Seems silly not to as it's already apart.
I will measure the combustion chamber and decide about the skimming. I am not a fan of lots of HP. I do not race my cars and I don’t see a reason to replace the camshaft for few more horses. This car has more than enough for what it is.
Good morning.
Busty Beauties!!
@@kge420 LOL, Busty Cuties Haha
Great video with procedures of measuring. But, you never addressed crankshaft end play which plagues these engines.
He talked about it in the previous video.
Yeah, as the other said, that was the previous video as the play needed to be addressed before the crank came out of the block.
Ok, sorry. I missed that! Must have dozed off.
Nice assessment of the condition of your engine, since your friend has started working on Alfa spiders, you should do a similar one, but select a Fiat spider 124 to broaden your audience. Lol, lots of rusty Bella's from a similar time period around, with a wonderful Twin Cam engine, anyways, good job as always.
There are so many different bella's out there, but there is only one of me :) I have no time for everything. I do not tailor my projects based on the demand on TH-cam. I tailor my videos based on what project I work on in the moment. And the projects that I work on are the ones that the wind blows my way LOL. You know what I mean. I find that the Triumph community in Canada is lacking enough mechanics so I am happy to be stuck to these Rusty Beauties in particular as there is always someone out there, who needs my help :)
Chris, I appreciate you clearly love Alfas but in my very humble opinion these channels are held in very high esteem mainly because of the old English classic cars that both Elin and David restore so wonderfully. (David is only refurbishing the Alpha on behalf of his friend Doc friend basically because he can be trusted to do a wonderful job on practically anything!) Alphas are truly lovely but I hope neither David or Elin are tempted to diverge in that way. I bet there’s some great Alpha channels out there too. Respect and best wishes for Christmas.
@@philtucker1224 ALFA!!
Looks like the car "failed" just in time to prevent excessive wear in the engine... realistically it just needed a head refresh and timing chain 35 years ago, then patch the rusty bodywork with aluminium and glass fibre like on the red Mk1 and keep driving it as long as possible !
Is it an overdrive car ? That will certainly affect the wear to some extent.
Yes, it will be an overdrive car. It wasn't before
BL Repair Operation Manual: 0.002 - 0.003"
BL Competition Preparation Manual: 0.006".
Based on this I would say that at max of 0.0026 bore wear you are fine and if your going racing then you need a little more honed out of block. I guess you are meaning 0.0005 max taper not 0.005
Also I believe the factory had 2 grades of bore 0.0000 to -0.0005 and + 0.0001 to +0.0006 and pistons were graded to suit either bore. So you also need to check piston grade you have to see full picture. Thanks again Elin for your great videos.
Perhaps you should change the name to “fuer Anna !
Regards,,
Sandy🔧🏴
Elin could this be a 2.5 TR6 engine and not a GT6 ??
No, the crank is GT6 it is obvious without even measuring. The offset is much shorter.
Your folding table workbench is frightening. Invest in a good used industrial workbench for 2023
Elin, you are European, stop trying to sound like an American !! It’s anti clockwise not counter clockwise ha!!
Regards,
Sandy🔧🏴
Lol, potato - tomato.