Looks like a great improvement thanks for taking us through the preload set up, you made it look so easy. Nice bit of turning as well!! Seeing those rotoflex couplings reminded me of another Triumph I had, a 1500 fwd. I think it was the model just before the Toledo or dolomite. These also had that type of transmission. It was at the end of its life so we took it Banger racing. It lasted three races then one of the wheels collapsed!! Good luck from Spain!!
Well, that was a crafty bit of engineering! Excellent video for the next guy who wants to undertake this modification. Power to the rear wheels should definitely be improved! Thanks for the video!
Elin, thanks for sharing those moments of "daydreaming of ANNA"; those thoughts can provide the incentive to start a project, and more importantly, to keep going through the drudgery! Someday, in a future video, could you share the story of acquiring and using that mini-mill? That little machine sure seems like it has earned the floor space in your shop!
Excellent! Love the explanation of the endfloat setting. I'm still on rotoflexes - apparently the cheap ones don't last, but genuine Metalastik are available from Demon Tweaks in UK. Breaking is not a problem, one of my old ones was broken in 3 places, but the mounts keep it all in place and drive is still transferred! :-0
Elin, Even I understood the way you calculated the required spacer thickness, (so I’m sure your other 21,300 subscribers got it quite easily!) Your ability to explain things clearly must therefore be really excellent! 🤣🤣 Live long and prosper buddy 🖖
That was quite a 'major' undertaking Elin.. I'd say you'd have still been there had you not had the facility of that mini lath. What a handy tool that's 'turned' out to be 😅!
Hi Elin as you have removed leaf spring may be worth separating leaves, cleaning them and reassembling with PTFE (Teflon) sheet strips to reduce wear and tear from friction. R regards Robin
Thanks Elin! This helps so much as there wasn't any videos or anything tackling it. Now I just have to figure out how the heck to build the tool and make the spacers when the time comes. I am guessing the tool from the shop manual is unobtanium eh? I am thinking I could make the tool out of hardwood on a drill press like a lathe but guess we'll cross that bridge when I get there lol
FYI When I put a breaker bar between the wheel hub studs to lock the hub, I like to put lug nuts on first so that they protect the threads from getting damaged by the breaker bar.
great video as always. Very clever setup you made for measuring. TAoo bad you didn't make a link for the new CV axles. Can you give me the source for it? thank you
....If you buy a cheap vacuum sealer (for preserving food)....you can put a bearing WITH grease in the baggy and vacuum seal them together....This will not only fully pack the bearing with grease, it will preserve it until you need it, lol...............There are people who carry spare wheel bearings this way, pre-packed and stored clean (usually 4 wheelers and ATV's)......John (westcoast,Can.)
Ellin..... please, please, Please! For my sanity AND yours. Put some Permatex #80078 Aluminum Anti-Scize Lubricant on those splines. You'll be doing your Future self a big favor if you ever have to change a CV Boot cover!
Probably the most intimidating task on these cars. Thanks for the great tutorial.
Awesome video, thank you so much! Currently sitting in the garage trying to toss some CVs in my 70 GT6.
Looks like a great improvement thanks for taking us through the preload set up, you made it look so easy. Nice bit of turning as well!!
Seeing those rotoflex couplings reminded me of another Triumph I had, a 1500 fwd. I think it was the model just before the Toledo or dolomite. These also had that type of transmission. It was at the end of its life so we took it Banger racing. It lasted three races then one of the wheels collapsed!!
Good luck from Spain!!
Well, that was a crafty bit of engineering! Excellent video for the next guy who wants to undertake this modification. Power to the rear wheels should definitely be improved! Thanks for the video!
Elin, thanks for sharing those moments of "daydreaming of ANNA"; those thoughts can provide the incentive to start a project, and more importantly, to keep going through the drudgery!
Someday, in a future video, could you share the story of acquiring and using that mini-mill? That little machine sure seems like it has earned the floor space in your shop!
Excellent! Love the explanation of the endfloat setting. I'm still on rotoflexes - apparently the cheap ones don't last, but genuine Metalastik are available from Demon Tweaks in UK. Breaking is not a problem, one of my old ones was broken in 3 places, but the mounts keep it all in place and drive is still transferred! :-0
Elin, Even I understood the way you calculated the required spacer thickness, (so I’m sure your other 21,300 subscribers got it quite easily!) Your ability to explain things clearly must therefore be really excellent! 🤣🤣 Live long and prosper buddy 🖖
That was an awesome video. I sure wish that kit was available when I had the 1970 GT6+ 50 years ago. 😂
Ahh, now i understand how the original Churchill tool that i've got works, thanks Elin.
Nice job
That was quite a 'major' undertaking Elin.. I'd say you'd have still been there had you not had the facility of that mini lath. What a handy tool that's 'turned' out to be 😅!
Hi Elin as you have removed leaf spring may be worth separating leaves, cleaning them and reassembling with PTFE (Teflon) sheet strips to reduce wear and tear from friction. R regards Robin
Thanks Elin!
This helps so much as there wasn't any videos or anything tackling it.
Now I just have to figure out how the heck to build the tool and make the spacers when the time comes. I am guessing the tool from the shop manual is unobtanium eh? I am thinking I could make the tool out of hardwood on a drill press like a lathe but guess we'll cross that bridge when I get there lol
Second. Well done Elin, as always. Anna will be on the road before you know it. 🎅
Thank you Elin
You’re a genuinely intelligent man. Well done.
Were the shims the same on both sides?
FYI When I put a breaker bar between the wheel hub studs to lock the hub, I like to put lug nuts on first so that they protect the threads from getting damaged by the breaker bar.
First 😉 maybe I should be out in the garage instead of watching videos 😉
The CV joints look great! There was a lot of math though 😉
Question, are there any advantages keeping the original donuts?
The GT 6 was my dream car as a 12 year old.i am now 66
One other thought, maybe you could video the creation of your own bearing-greasing tool using the mini-mill to make the end disks and such?
Nice upgrade. Should also give a better feel for power to the road also.
Elin, what are the CV shafts from? is it a premade kit from where?
It is a kit made specifically for GT6. I got it from Rimmers Bros in the UK.
@@RustyBeauties great thanks!!
Another great trove of information. I wonder if it would be worth the investment to do this conversion on a Spitfire.
great video as always. Very clever setup you made for measuring. TAoo bad you didn't make a link for the new CV axles. Can you give me the source for it? thank you
I bought them from Rimmers Bros - part# RG1314
@@RustyBeauties, thank you so much. Looking forward to your next entertaining and educational video!
....If you buy a cheap vacuum sealer (for preserving food)....you can put a bearing WITH grease in the baggy and vacuum seal them together....This will not only fully pack the bearing with grease, it will preserve it until you need it, lol...............There are people who carry spare wheel bearings this way, pre-packed and stored clean (usually 4 wheelers and ATV's)......John (westcoast,Can.)
Another AC/DC fan?? " I got the Jack...." 🤔 I loved the Bon Scott albums ...
Ellin..... please, please, Please! For my sanity AND yours. Put some Permatex #80078 Aluminum Anti-Scize Lubricant on those splines. You'll be doing your Future self a big favor if you ever have to change a CV Boot cover!
what's your address? I'll send you a bearing packing tool!
you