Elin, we always appreciate your detailed videos, even when you have covered this in previous builds. We keep learning every time you undertake a project like this and you are the only channel that does the detail so well. I am rebuilding a ‘65 TR4a and I always draw encouragement from you. All the best, Richard
Engine disassembly, diagnosis and repair are always exciting and fun. That head and block will need magnafluxing for sure, and or chemical dye crack staining. Thanks for another entertaining and educational video.
Had to rebuild my head due to low compression. To get it off with engine still in place, I removed all the studs then had friend with pry bar in intake hole, I took a wood block and small sledge and one wack knocked the head loose. After install I was seeing coolant in the same spot. It was from the water pump housing leaking at the gasket. Was not tightened. Solved problem with wrenching on the three studs.
I believe the air pump and air injection in the exhaust manifold was an accepted trick to lower the CO2 % contents in the discharge pipe to pass the emission acceptance test. Similar system existed on some Jaguar E type head.
76 vehicles in California require smog testing. Needs a working air pump, valve, tubes in exhaust, etc. Unlucky for me because it's hard to find a good air pump. Needs to be tuned for a very lean adjustment to pass low idle hc.
Hi Elin. I am currently restoring a 1960 Jaguar MK-2. I need to locate an automotive machine shop that is willing to tackle my 3.8 litre six cylinder long block machine work. Could you recommend a shop? Much appreciated. I enjoy watching your excellent and informative videos.
Better to take the opportunity to fit an earlier higher compression cylinder head (if available) if any machining or repairs are necessary…. Look at the depth of the combustion chambers ! Interesting to see a really late car that has had the emissions stuff removed…. nice car that will be enjoyed next driving season !
It is hard to find these heads here, they were never imported to NA. I could machine this one down to bring the compression ratio back to the UK spec, I've done it before, but this means shortened push rods etc. Tom is not looking for crazy performance and I don't think he would go that far. He just wants a solid, reliable car that he can enjoy on trips with his wife.
@@RustyBeauties Yes I remember Cheftush had lots of shenanigans with the TR250 and different heads manifolds and gaskets and different models and years….
An easier way to remove the cyl. head goes by first removing the head studs, after that you will just fight a sticky head gasket. I’m dealing right now with a gt6 engine with the same symptoms. Liquid and oil loss due to a Payen head gasket, oil consumption due to used cylinders and piston rings combined with a high engine block pressure as the vent was clogged. Visible clues are fouled spark plugs and piston heads with burned oil and pressure washed spots on either cyl 6 and 1 piston head. Other traces are coolant and oil on the engine block. Hopefully there are no cracks…Engine overheating and white exhaust smoke with miss firing are commonplace. You will face a complete engine rebuild with new pistons, valves & guides, camshaft and all the distribution parts. And while you are having the engine out, do an inspection of the complete drive train.
Yes, I am taking care of the diff and some parts of the suspension as well while the engine is out. Even frame reinforcement etc. We installed the transmission in this car about a year and a half ago and we replaced the seals if I remember correctly. there are some new leaks on it though so we will take care of those. But back to the engine, I think you will be surprised. I was... When I finished taking it apart. Stay tuned for the next episode.
@@RustyBeauties Hi Elin. Just watched your second video for this engine and I'm more than surprised about the great condition of this engine block. That' great and makes the job easier. As for the tappets there seems to be an issue with what is available quality wise on the aftermarket. Payen Head gaskets for example.... I'm driving a 1973 MK3 french blue, a re-import from the USA to the Netherlands in 1994 and I brought to Luxembourg in 2014. As reported in my first comment, the engine became an oil well and luckily I noticed it at an early stage. At the same time I had started rebuilding a high compression engine which I bought on ebay in England 10 years ago. That one will replace the broken one together with a rebuilt gearbox with overdrive as well as a rebuilt diff. The full program, luckily I am retired now. Take care.
Would checking the head torque before head removal have been a wise decision in case the head was not torqued properly? There were definitely valve seat issues anyway that I noticed and you pointed out.
Im getting ready to pull the engine from my 74 tr6. Can it be removed without removing manifolds. I don't ned to rebuild motor i need to remove body and repair frame.
The suspected "crack" where owner was seeing "green stuff" looks like a manufacturing flaw to me... but I am just looking at a video. It might look quite different in person. Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the late TR6 use an intake manifold with engine coolant run through passages to warm it? Could that be the source of the "green stuff"? A leak onto the head would dry very quickly due to the heat.
Yeah, I am not so convinced this was a crack. I think somehow the camera makes it look worse than what it is. That is why I am still not giving up on this head. Good call on the manifold tube. I will check that. Thank you for the idea!
I’ll be following very keenly so the more detail the better Elin. BTW those crank pulleys are expensive. My car to be also has a piece out of the belt groove like yours , do you think it matters as it rotates it may wear belt?
I don't think a chip on the pulley is big deal. Of course it depends how deep it is. If the rubber on this one was not perished I would have reused it, but since it needs to be replaced it was not worth rebuilding a chipped pulley. So we ordered a new one. And yes... They are expensive :(
Could it be that the head was removed to replace 'leaded' seats for 'unleaded' and some foreign object (piece of valve seat for instance) got stuck to the valve?
Not sure why the head was removed, but definitely the are no unleaded seals installed. I am doing that now as long as the head checks out after the magnafluxing. I can't really explain what happened to that valve stem though.
Maybe someone set the exhaust valve lashes too tight? Richard Good sells steel oil gallery plugs which are superior to the aluminum ones sold by the larger parts houses. When I rebuilt my engine I had one that was hemorrhaging oil so I ordered RG’s plugs and replaced it with a RG plug and problem solved. They won’t strip as easily when removed either…
I don't think so. I mean... It is always good to use new parts, but following this logic we should replace everything. As a cheap insurance I am replacing parts that are deep inside the engine and would require a lot of work to be replaced in the future like oil pump or half worn clutch disk for example. But a water pump takes half an hour to replace. I wouldn't replace it now if it is in a good shape. It actually looks new. Not even rusted inside. You will see in the next videos.
The exhaust seats look like unleaded fuel damage, hardened seats would stop that. The top of the head is definitely cracked (I've never seen them crack there before😵). And I think I saw a crack between the seats on number 6 and maybe number 1. Hard to tell from a video, so I might be wrong. But it certainly looks like it. I have never known a Triumph block crack unless it's been frozen. But maybe that's what happened to the top of the head. So better safe than sorry with the magneflux. 👍
Yes, I am installing hardened seats as long as the Magnafluxing shows there are no cracks. The camera definitely shows it worse than what it is. I am not so sure that is a crack on the top. Inside, between the valve seats as well. I can't see anything with my eyes, but maybe the camera shows the truth.... We shall see
No, the studs were not bent. It happens often on Triumphs. The studs rust inside the head and that is what happens. This one actually was not too bad. I had much worse situations in the past.
Full detailed engine rebuild please Elin, love the channel.
Elin, we always appreciate your detailed videos, even when you have covered this in previous builds. We keep learning every time you undertake a project like this and you are the only channel that does the detail so well. I am rebuilding a ‘65 TR4a and I always draw encouragement from you. All the best, Richard
I love engine disassembly & diagnose videos
Engine disassembly, diagnosis and repair are always exciting and fun. That head and block will need magnafluxing for sure, and or chemical dye crack staining. Thanks for another entertaining and educational video.
Nice car , 76 last year . Worth a rebuild!
Great details. Thanks so much 😊
Had to rebuild my head due to low compression. To get it off with engine still in place, I removed all the studs then had friend with pry bar in intake hole, I took a wood block and small sledge and one wack knocked the head loose. After install I was seeing coolant in the same spot. It was from the water pump housing leaking at the gasket. Was not tightened. Solved problem with wrenching on the three studs.
Thanks Elin, very timely as I will be checking over my GT6 engine in the next couple of weeks and I know have useful tips to help me on my way
I have seen galling on valve shafts too. Usually just a tiny spot but enough to prevent the valve from dropping. I use a fine wet stone to remove it.
I believe the air pump and air injection in the exhaust manifold was an accepted trick to lower the CO2 % contents in the discharge pipe to pass the emission acceptance test. Similar system existed on some Jaguar E type head.
Very educational and magnifluxing should confirm issues one way or the other.
Great job again, Elin.
76 vehicles in California require smog testing. Needs a working air pump, valve, tubes in exhaust, etc. Unlucky for me because it's hard to find a good air pump. Needs to be tuned for a very lean adjustment to pass low idle hc.
Hi Elin. I am currently restoring a 1960 Jaguar MK-2. I need to locate an automotive machine shop that is willing to tackle my 3.8 litre six cylinder long block machine work. Could you recommend a shop? Much appreciated. I enjoy watching your excellent and informative videos.
Nice,😎😎😎👍👍👍
Better to take the opportunity to fit an earlier higher compression cylinder head (if available) if any machining or repairs are necessary…. Look at the depth of the combustion chambers !
Interesting to see a really late car that has had the emissions stuff removed…. nice car that will be enjoyed next driving season !
It is hard to find these heads here, they were never imported to NA. I could machine this one down to bring the compression ratio back to the UK spec, I've done it before, but this means shortened push rods etc. Tom is not looking for crazy performance and I don't think he would go that far. He just wants a solid, reliable car that he can enjoy on trips with his wife.
@@RustyBeauties Yes I remember Cheftush had lots of shenanigans with the TR250 and different heads manifolds and gaskets and different models and years….
An easier way to remove the cyl. head goes by first removing the head studs, after that you will just fight a sticky head gasket. I’m dealing right now with a gt6 engine with the same symptoms. Liquid and oil loss due to a Payen head gasket, oil consumption due to used cylinders and piston rings combined with a high engine block pressure as the vent was clogged. Visible clues are fouled spark plugs and piston heads with burned oil and pressure washed spots on either cyl 6 and 1 piston head. Other traces are coolant and oil on the engine block. Hopefully there are no cracks…Engine overheating and white exhaust smoke with miss firing are commonplace. You will face a complete engine rebuild with new pistons, valves & guides, camshaft and all the distribution parts. And while you are having the engine out, do an inspection of the complete drive train.
Yes, I am taking care of the diff and some parts of the suspension as well while the engine is out. Even frame reinforcement etc. We installed the transmission in this car about a year and a half ago and we replaced the seals if I remember correctly. there are some new leaks on it though so we will take care of those. But back to the engine, I think you will be surprised. I was... When I finished taking it apart. Stay tuned for the next episode.
@@RustyBeauties Hi Elin. Just watched your second video for this engine and I'm more than surprised about the great condition of this engine block. That' great and makes the job easier. As for the tappets there seems to be an issue with what is available quality wise on the aftermarket. Payen Head gaskets for example.... I'm driving a 1973 MK3 french blue, a re-import from the USA to the Netherlands in 1994 and I brought to Luxembourg in 2014. As reported in my first comment, the engine became an oil well and luckily I noticed it at an early stage. At the same time I had started rebuilding a high compression engine which I bought on ebay in England 10 years ago. That one will replace the broken one together with a rebuilt gearbox with overdrive as well as a rebuilt diff. The full program, luckily I am retired now. Take care.
Would checking the head torque before head removal have been a wise decision in case the head was not torqued properly? There were definitely valve seat issues anyway that I noticed and you pointed out.
Yeah, that might have been a good idea. I didn't feel any of the nuts coming out too easy though...
Im getting ready to pull the engine from my 74 tr6. Can it be removed without removing manifolds. I don't ned to rebuild motor i need to remove body and repair frame.
My vote is to show the total rebuild details.
You and Cheftush have inspired me to document my TVR 2500M on my small TH-cam channel. All info on TR6 is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
That’s similar to my car
Zoom zoom 😊
The suspected "crack" where owner was seeing "green stuff" looks like a manufacturing flaw to me... but I am just looking at a video. It might look quite different in person.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the late TR6 use an intake manifold with engine coolant run through passages to warm it? Could that be the source of the "green stuff"? A leak onto the head would dry very quickly due to the heat.
Yeah, I am not so convinced this was a crack. I think somehow the camera makes it look worse than what it is. That is why I am still not giving up on this head. Good call on the manifold tube. I will check that. Thank you for the idea!
I’ll be following very keenly so the more detail the better Elin. BTW those crank pulleys are expensive. My car to be also has a piece out of the belt groove like yours , do you think it matters as it rotates it may wear belt?
I don't think a chip on the pulley is big deal. Of course it depends how deep it is. If the rubber on this one was not perished I would have reused it, but since it needs to be replaced it was not worth rebuilding a chipped pulley. So we ordered a new one. And yes... They are expensive :(
Could it be that the head was removed to replace 'leaded' seats for 'unleaded' and some foreign object (piece of valve seat for instance) got stuck to the valve?
Not sure why the head was removed, but definitely the are no unleaded seals installed. I am doing that now as long as the head checks out after the magnafluxing. I can't really explain what happened to that valve stem though.
@@RustyBeauties some things stay a mystery.
Maybe someone set the exhaust valve lashes too tight?
Richard Good sells steel oil gallery plugs which are superior to the aluminum ones sold by the larger parts houses. When I rebuilt my engine I had one that was hemorrhaging oil so I ordered RG’s plugs and replaced it with a RG plug and problem solved. They won’t strip as easily when removed either…
I might get some of those too. Thanks
You should always replace the water pump. Cheep insurance.
I don't think so. I mean... It is always good to use new parts, but following this logic we should replace everything. As a cheap insurance I am replacing parts that are deep inside the engine and would require a lot of work to be replaced in the future like oil pump or half worn clutch disk for example. But a water pump takes half an hour to replace. I wouldn't replace it now if it is in a good shape. It actually looks new. Not even rusted inside. You will see in the next videos.
Hopefully that head doesn't have any crack-a-lackn.
🤣
Just carbon/rust on the head studs, that's common.
The exhaust seats look like unleaded fuel damage, hardened seats would stop that. The top of the head is definitely cracked (I've never seen them crack there before😵). And I think I saw a crack between the seats on number 6 and maybe number 1. Hard to tell from a video, so I might be wrong. But it certainly looks like it. I have never known a Triumph block crack unless it's been frozen. But maybe that's what happened to the top of the head. So better safe than sorry with the magneflux. 👍
Yes, I am installing hardened seats as long as the Magnafluxing shows there are no cracks. The camera definitely shows it worse than what it is. I am not so sure that is a crack on the top. Inside, between the valve seats as well. I can't see anything with my eyes, but maybe the camera shows the truth.... We shall see
@ Fingers crossed 👍😋
Good grief. Head studs bent? Even your dog was wondering why you were wrestling so hard. Good info.
No, the studs were not bent. It happens often on Triumphs. The studs rust inside the head and that is what happens. This one actually was not too bad. I had much worse situations in the past.
poor quality on audio