Hi Elin, I've been watching your work on this car with great interest. I'm restoring a 1970 GT6 Mk3 myself. Your 2X4 special tool for removing the top plate on the spring was a good idea, but here's my solution. First, remove two of the studs, the centre front and rear ones are probably best. Replace them with lengths of threaded rod, about 200mm long, then run two nuts down these longer studs to hold the spring tension. Remove the other four nuts, then gradually release the two nuts on the long studs till all the tension is off. For me, that worked well, no risk of the 2X4 hitting you in the face as you release it. I plan to reverse the process for refitting the spring, hopefully in about 3 or 4 weeks. Good luck with the project, great to see it moving forward!
A long time since I vieweed your videos since I’ve been working on my -66 Volvo, instead of the Spitfire. Viewed this one just to enjoy your excellent pedagogy and humour. Keep up the good work!
The wire in the waterways is used to strengthen the cores when casting. They're supposed to flush out with the sand once the head has been cast. But it's not uncommon to find odd bits.
Hi, when you use the bearing splitter to remove the bearing off the shaft, you use a bearing puller hooked around the back of the bearing splitter tool. Then you wind in the bearing puller tool to pull the bearing off the shaft. Sometimes the bearing splitter has threaded holes in the front face so that you can use threaded bars which are attached to the bearing puller. Where I worked we had a whole kit that took two guys to lift the box that the whole kit was in. Most people only buy the bits they need, then add to it when necessary. But I will say that when we pulled a bearing off this way, we would cover the bearing with an old rag. As sometimes the ball bearing would explode out of their housing.
Yes, my splitter has the threaded holes and I used a puller in the past, but this time the splitter wasn't in enough and only the 4 corners were under the bearing. I was afraid they would chip off as it is a cheap tool. I tried to achieve a similar effect on the press, but I gave up for the same reason. So the angle grinder helped.
I am enjoying your uploads... I learned to drive a standard transmission in a 73 Spitfire... and we were that crazy kind of family that named all of our cars. Mom and Dad had mustangs... named the Duke and the Duchess... and our spitfire was "Itty Bitty Spitty"... or "Spitty" for short. During the 4 years we owned the car, we rebuilt the engine twice... and I came to the conclusion, perhaps prematurely... perhaps unfairly... that these cars simply don't hold up... (maybe not to teenage drivers just learning how to drive... me and my siblings). So, I have an interest in these TRs... Spitfires... Sprites... as they were the first cars I learned to really work on. So... I am enjoying your channel and I'm eager to see the journey on this through to the end.
Elin, there's nothing more frustrating than doing repair on a vehicle only to discover those 'spare parts' sitting on the bench when done! It does keep us humble. lol
Personally speaking, I like the rotoflex joints. They absorb vibration. The Ford GT 40 has them, along with 63AMG Mercedes, on the prop shaft. So high quality, we maintain joints I would imagine are sufficient for our 110 plusHP cars?
I had the same wires in my TR 6 head water jacket. I thought it looked like welding rod. Nice job on thr rear end. Glad to see you remembered the clips. It's always a pain in the butt doing things twice though.
Don't you just hate it when you know that tension/pressure is close to either releasing the part or exploding in your face 🤕.. Great video again Elin..
Hi Elin , Enjoy watching your videos & especially the ones where you are working on engines . If I have missed it in the past , my apologies, but I would like an episode on the various models & the differences between the engines . Also something along the lines of if a person was interested in getting into a British sports car , which would you advise as a first , what years , what should you look for etc . Regards 👍
I put a new seal on my pinion flange, and still had a drip. That was with a speedi-sleeve too. I think it was leaking through the splined shaft and then out around the nut. I took the nut off (under the car) and put some sealer in the best I could and it still drips a little, but not as bad.
Yeah, I am always worried about leaks between the shaft and the pulley or sleeve or whatever the seal runs on. But usually it turns out there is no problem
Correct, those roto flex joints were both new. I’m with you on the cv conversion. The leaf spring has some nylon disks between the leaves. I was fooling around with replacing the buttons there. afaik the new roto flex joints are made by a different company and are sub par. End rubber bushes on the leaf spring are new, but very old! Rear diff bushes I’m not sure about, but I think I had ordered them with the front ones the hold the diff to the frame. Diff was never opened by me. Only yearly oil changes prior to my trips to Ontario.
I can’t believe you remember those things from so many years ago. I don’t remember what I’ve done on the car 5 years ago and have to go and check my own videos :)😂
I think your correction about the GT6 rear spring was only partially correct ! Yes the Mk1 had the simple spring like the Spitfires MKs 1 - 3 and the Vitesse Mk1s, and for the GT6 and Vitesse Mk2s the Rotoflex axles were introduced. These carried on with the Mk3 GT6, until that was simplified by BL to use the "swing spring" and solid axles of the Spitfire Mk IV / 1500. So it is not exactly the same as the Mk1 arrangement... the Online diagrams you showed don't seem to make this clear ? Also the Rotoflex axle design was used on the Lotus Elan, and these commonly get the CV joint upgrade.
Elin, no worries I have a near new one that you can use. I ordered mine from Rimmers a long time ago and I’ve already used it once you’re welcome to use mine just let me know where to ship it.
Reduces torsional vibration and noise. Absorbs torque fluctuations. Replaces mechanical joints, eliminating lubrication and metal-to-metal wear. No servicing required. Unaffected by dust, grit or moisture.
Just trying to think back how you got the oil seals off the TR6 stub axles…I know you did those in one of your previous videos and I don’t believe they gave you any issues. Looks like the GT6 is very similar just smaller in size…
I may be wrong but I don’t think that's the proper oil for the differential. Look at the label it looks like what I use for my transmission. For some reason I can’t post links in youtube but if you google triumph experience “more for the differential gear oil debate” post #7 there is good info on this.
Hi Elin, I've been watching your work on this car with great interest. I'm restoring a 1970 GT6 Mk3 myself. Your 2X4 special tool for removing the top plate on the spring was a good idea, but here's my solution.
First, remove two of the studs, the centre front and rear ones are probably best. Replace them with lengths of threaded rod, about 200mm long, then run two nuts down these longer studs to hold the spring tension. Remove the other four nuts, then gradually release the two nuts on the long studs till all the tension is off. For me, that worked well, no risk of the 2X4 hitting you in the face as you release it. I plan to reverse the process for refitting the spring, hopefully in about 3 or 4 weeks.
Good luck with the project, great to see it moving forward!
A long time since I vieweed your videos since I’ve been working on my -66 Volvo, instead of the Spitfire. Viewed this one just to enjoy your excellent pedagogy and humour. Keep up the good work!
The wire in the waterways is used to strengthen the cores when casting. They're supposed to flush out with the sand once the head has been cast. But it's not uncommon to find odd bits.
Good call, that got past me and I do a fair bit of casting.
At first I thought the wires were from the hangers used in the casting process - I've seen this before in some investment casting.
Being considerably older than you I can certainly relate to our diminished vision. Always amazed by your patience and good humor. God bless.
Hi, when you use the bearing splitter to remove the bearing off the shaft, you use a bearing puller hooked around the back of the bearing splitter tool. Then you wind in the bearing puller tool to pull the bearing off the shaft. Sometimes the bearing splitter has threaded holes in the front face so that you can use threaded bars which are attached to the bearing puller. Where I worked we had a whole kit that took two guys to lift the box that the whole kit was in. Most people only buy the bits they need, then add to it when necessary. But I will say that when we pulled a bearing off this way, we would cover the bearing with an old rag. As sometimes the ball bearing would explode out of their housing.
Yes, my splitter has the threaded holes and I used a puller in the past, but this time the splitter wasn't in enough and only the 4 corners were under the bearing. I was afraid they would chip off as it is a cheap tool. I tried to achieve a similar effect on the press, but I gave up for the same reason. So the angle grinder helped.
I am enjoying your uploads... I learned to drive a standard transmission in a 73 Spitfire... and we were that crazy kind of family that named all of our cars. Mom and Dad had mustangs... named the Duke and the Duchess... and our spitfire was "Itty Bitty Spitty"... or "Spitty" for short. During the 4 years we owned the car, we rebuilt the engine twice... and I came to the conclusion, perhaps prematurely... perhaps unfairly... that these cars simply don't hold up... (maybe not to teenage drivers just learning how to drive... me and my siblings). So, I have an interest in these TRs... Spitfires... Sprites... as they were the first cars I learned to really work on. So... I am enjoying your channel and I'm eager to see the journey on this through to the end.
Elin, there's nothing more frustrating than doing repair on a vehicle only to discover those 'spare parts' sitting on the bench when done! It does keep us humble. lol
How true is that! th-cam.com/video/35JYvYSPb8A/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=CC
Personally speaking, I like the rotoflex joints. They absorb vibration. The Ford GT 40 has them, along with 63AMG Mercedes, on the prop shaft. So high quality, we maintain joints I would imagine are sufficient for our 110 plusHP cars?
I am excited for the Rotoflex - CV joint conversion video! The shims part of it has me worried about doing them on my GT6
The wires are casting artefacts. They were used to strengthen the inner core and should have come out with the sand, but they are harmless.
I had the same wires in my TR 6 head water jacket. I thought it looked like welding rod. Nice job on thr rear end. Glad to see you remembered the clips. It's always a pain in the butt doing things twice though.
The little rods are tools for adjusting the muffler bearings. You can also use them for checking the level of the headlight fluid....
😂
So that's how Doc Brown modified his Time Travelling Delorean for flying. 😅
Don't you just hate it when you know that tension/pressure is close to either releasing the part or exploding in your face 🤕.. Great video again Elin..
Hi Elin ,
Enjoy watching your videos & especially the ones where you are working on engines . If I have missed it in the past , my apologies, but I would like an episode on the various models & the differences between the engines . Also something along the lines of if a person was interested in getting into a British sports car , which would you advise as a first , what years , what should you look for etc .
Regards 👍
I put a new seal on my pinion flange, and still had a drip. That was with a speedi-sleeve too. I think it was leaking through the splined shaft and then out around the nut. I took the nut off (under the car) and put some sealer in the best I could and it still drips a little, but not as bad.
Yeah, I am always worried about leaks between the shaft and the pulley or sleeve or whatever the seal runs on. But usually it turns out there is no problem
Correct, those roto flex joints were both new. I’m with you on the cv conversion.
The leaf spring has some nylon disks between the leaves. I was fooling around with replacing the buttons there. afaik the new roto flex joints are made by a different company and are sub par.
End rubber bushes on the leaf spring are new, but very old! Rear diff bushes I’m not sure about, but I think I had ordered them with the front ones the hold the diff to the frame. Diff was never opened by me. Only yearly oil changes prior to my trips to Ontario.
I can’t believe you remember those things from so many years ago. I don’t remember what I’ve done on the car 5 years ago and have to go and check my own videos :)😂
@@RustyBeauties Benifit of being a simpleton with an empty head.
Maybe those wires were one of the radiator hose hangers left inside a hose that got put on the car.
I think your correction about the GT6 rear spring was only partially correct ! Yes the Mk1 had the simple spring like the Spitfires MKs 1 - 3 and the Vitesse Mk1s, and for the GT6 and Vitesse Mk2s the Rotoflex axles were introduced. These carried on with the Mk3 GT6, until that was simplified by BL to use the "swing spring" and solid axles of the Spitfire Mk IV / 1500. So it is not exactly the same as the Mk1 arrangement... the Online diagrams you showed don't seem to make this clear ?
Also the Rotoflex axle design was used on the Lotus Elan, and these commonly get the CV joint upgrade.
Elin, no worries I have a near new one that you can use. I ordered mine from Rimmers a long time ago and I’ve already used it once you’re welcome to use mine just let me know where to ship it.
Thanks Robert. I got it done. It turns out this style hub comes out pretty easy
If you still have them, check in the small TRF parts bags and see if that washer is with the new rubber bushings. No guarantee.
Yeah, I have to dig out all boxes and go through them again. I have them nicely packed in the basement.
Is the rotaflex a drivetrain shock absorber or instead of a universal joint?
Kind of doesn't make a lot of sense.
Reduces torsional vibration and noise.
Absorbs torque fluctuations.
Replaces mechanical joints, eliminating lubrication and metal-to-metal wear.
No servicing required.
Unaffected by dust, grit or moisture.
@@MrDazvere so it's both then.
Just trying to think back how you got the oil seals off the TR6 stub axles…I know you did those in one of your previous videos and I don’t believe they gave you any issues. Looks like the GT6 is very similar just smaller in size…
On TR6 you can remove the outer flange from the shaft and that gives you more room for the press
I may be wrong but I don’t think that's the proper oil for the differential. Look at the label it looks like what I use for my transmission. For some reason I can’t post links in youtube but if you google triumph experience “more for the differential gear oil debate” post #7 there is good info on this.
how much were the drive shafts deer .The same price as the handbag you bought your self lol
😂
Space ship 😁😂😂😂😂