Thanks for the video. This is the second time my valve seal fell out. I forgot about the first time until I saw this video. Thanks for the reminder. It solved my problem.
Just found this issue on my pressure washer, Quantum 6.0 XTC, had the head off after verifying the cam timing was correct, I went to adjust the valve clearances, had the valves out, went to clean up the port on the intake valve side with a die grinder, noticed the valve seat was loose in the block, so remove the valve seat, cleaned out the socket area for the seat, took a punch and peened the inside lip all the way around it the seat socket, then took some Indian Head Compound and painted socket area reinstalled installed the seat. Re-install the valves, and checked the clearance, reassembled it, started right up first pull.
Same Craftsman B&S engine exhaust seat popped out again. Will try to go deeper with prick punch this time. Poor design with valve seat insert made out of steel pressed in to an aluminum block which allows for different expansion ratios when heated.
I have a mower that's given me perfect service for 31 years. I just recently gave it a complete tune up, new spark plug, new air filter, changed the oil, got a new blade and balanced and installed, cleaned the carb with carb cleaner. Ran like a champ, except for a few backfires, which it normally didn't do. Second time mowing, I stopped the engine and restarted it quickly a couple times, and it backfired and then died. Would not start at all. I found it has spark and gas. But when I replaced spark plug with another new one to see if that would help, I looked in the spark plug hole and could see part of what looked like a chrome metallic ring. I was able to move it a bit with a screw driver and it seemed loose. So I think now it's a valve seat. And my luck, looking for a new one, it's no longer manufactured and I can't get a new one, so my only alternative is to tear into it and attempt this repair. I don't have a torque wrench to properly torque the head back on, and have to hope the gasket comes off in one piece as yours did. I'm sick about this happening and a bit worried that this fix won't work well, or will result in a leaky valve and power loss. I too don't want to try to remove the valve to do this. I've seen other videos on this fix that also lapped the valve and valve seat afterwards, which of course would require buying the tool to do that. But guess if I take the head off and find that it is indeed a valve seat that's come off, then this is my only alternative. Can't buy a new seat, have to just hope the one that's loose isn't bent and will work after doing this procedure.
It's just a lawnmower. Go ahead and do the repair as I demonstrated in the video. You've got nothing to lose. I bet it'll fire right up and run for a few more years!
I just replaced a valve seat today being careful not to shatter it by doing it slowly and carefully with a proper sized socket and a dead blow hammer. I wouldnt worry about the torque, other than giving the similar modest amount of torgue for each head bolt by feel. I know mine came off no problem without any major effort with a box end wrench The other option for the cheapest of cheapos is to check the Harbor Freight dumpster on a regular basis, I get a couple of barely used good torque wrenches a month that way. The rumor is that you can spray the old but intact head gasket with aluminum spray paint in a pinch to reuse it.
I 'staked' the intake valve this way on my craftsman B&S and it lasted about a year. Your 'dimples' are much more aggressive than mine; I may try again with more 'aggressive' dimples, and perhaps a tad of JB-Weld Extreme Heat.
Buck I tried this many years ago and it lasted almost one yard mowing and came loose again , just junked the Briggs engine . Maybe you'll have better luck ...sad I didn't have any .....
I thought, "What have I got to lose?" It's a really nice mower, and I'd hate to scrap it. I'll use it a few times around here, and if it holds up, I'll donate the mower to someone who needs one. That's what I like to do with my surplus mowers.
Don't you wonder what's making it overheat? Maybe increase access to airflow? Bang out the carbon in the muffler? With muffler removed, clean out behind it. There's just a couple things holding it. If the valves don't fully seat properly, you grind the stems to create clearance at the he skinny end. It's behind the muffler and inside behind the breather on most Briggs. Good time to touch up the valve face using Kentucky windage and Indiana machine work with sand paper or emery cloth. But you're in a hurry, right. Change oil and change air filter if it's getting blocked? If it uses some oil, maybe a ring is sticking. Marvel mystery. Mow in sections and do it am or pm and not in the heat of the day. There's some thoughts. Goo ruck
Ping them works 95% of the time But I remove engine to do it Some times if really lose I very very lightly ping inside in three places and press it back in
![How to Fix This Briggs And Stratton Engine With No Compression [EX 550]](/img/n.gif)
Taryl and Donyboy73 would be proud of you. Thanks for another great video.
Larry said it when they were plumbers in Half-Wits Holiday. Thanks for your instructive videos.
Winner! An absolute classic episode. I love all the ones where they're mingling with high society!
Thanks for the video. This is the second time my valve seal fell out. I forgot about the first time until I saw this video. Thanks for the reminder. It solved my problem.
Thanks for the note. I've mowed three times since doing the repair. So far, so good....
Would or could you heat up the block area then & or chill the valve seat in a freezer before installation and get a better fit? Just asking
Appreciate the tutorial. Nice job for a delicate procedure... Thank you 🙂
Thank you!
Just found this issue on my pressure washer, Quantum 6.0 XTC, had the head off after verifying the cam timing was correct, I went to adjust the valve clearances, had the valves out, went to clean up the port on the intake valve side with a die grinder, noticed the valve seat was loose in the block, so remove the valve seat, cleaned out the socket area for the seat, took a punch and peened the inside lip all the way around it the seat socket, then took some Indian Head Compound and painted socket area reinstalled installed the seat. Re-install the valves, and checked the clearance, reassembled it, started right up first pull.
Thanks for the note, and great job on the repair!
Same Craftsman B&S engine exhaust seat popped out again. Will try to go deeper with prick punch this time. Poor design with valve seat insert made out of steel pressed in to an aluminum block which allows for different expansion ratios when heated.
I have a mower that's given me perfect service for 31 years. I just recently gave it a complete tune up, new spark plug, new air filter, changed the oil, got a new blade and balanced and installed, cleaned the carb with carb cleaner. Ran like a champ, except for a few backfires, which it normally didn't do.
Second time mowing, I stopped the engine and restarted it quickly a couple times, and it backfired and then died. Would not start at all. I found it has spark and gas. But when I replaced spark plug with another new one to see if that would help, I looked in the spark plug hole and could see part of what looked like a chrome metallic ring. I was able to move it a bit with a screw driver and it seemed loose. So I think now it's a valve seat. And my luck, looking for a new one, it's no longer manufactured and I can't get a new one, so my only alternative is to tear into it and attempt this repair. I don't have a torque wrench to properly torque the head back on, and have to hope the gasket comes off in one piece as yours did.
I'm sick about this happening and a bit worried that this fix won't work well, or will result in a leaky valve and power loss. I too don't want to try to remove the valve to do this. I've seen other videos on this fix that also lapped the valve and valve seat afterwards, which of course would require buying the tool to do that.
But guess if I take the head off and find that it is indeed a valve seat that's come off, then this is my only alternative. Can't buy a new seat, have to just hope the one that's loose isn't bent and will work after doing this procedure.
It's just a lawnmower. Go ahead and do the repair as I demonstrated in the video. You've got nothing to lose. I bet it'll fire right up and run for a few more years!
I just replaced a valve seat today being careful not to shatter it by doing it slowly and carefully with a proper sized socket and a dead blow hammer.
I wouldnt worry about the torque, other than giving the similar modest amount of torgue for each head bolt by feel. I know mine came off no problem without any major effort with a box end wrench
The other option for the cheapest of cheapos is to check the Harbor Freight dumpster on a regular basis, I get a couple of barely used good torque wrenches a month that way.
The rumor is that you can spray the old but intact head gasket with aluminum spray paint in a pinch to reuse it.
I 'staked' the intake valve this way on my craftsman B&S and it lasted about a year. Your 'dimples' are much more aggressive than mine; I may try again with more 'aggressive' dimples, and perhaps a tad of JB-Weld Extreme Heat.
Buck I tried this many years ago and it lasted almost one yard mowing and came loose again , just junked the Briggs engine . Maybe you'll have better luck ...sad I didn't have any .....
I thought, "What have I got to lose?" It's a really nice mower, and I'd hate to scrap it. I'll use it a few times around here, and if it holds up, I'll donate the mower to someone who needs one. That's what I like to do with my surplus mowers.
Don't you wonder what's making it overheat?
Maybe increase access to airflow? Bang out the carbon in the muffler? With muffler removed, clean out behind it. There's just a couple things holding it. If the valves don't fully seat properly, you grind the stems to create clearance at the he skinny end. It's behind the muffler and inside behind the breather on most Briggs. Good time to touch up the valve face using Kentucky windage and Indiana machine work with sand paper or emery cloth. But you're in a hurry, right.
Change oil and change air filter if it's getting blocked?
If it uses some oil, maybe a ring is sticking.
Marvel mystery.
Mow in sections and do it am or pm and not in the heat of the day.
There's some thoughts.
Goo ruck
Thank you, Danny. The repair I made is still holding up fine. I used this mower yesterday.
Hey how can I contact you? I really need some help with my rv. I have the same engine and chasis. I am going crazy with the vacuum hose routing!
Ping them works 95% of the time
But I remove engine to do it
Some times if really lose I very very lightly ping inside in three places and press it back in
Thanks, Phillip. The job has held up so far, though this mower does not get a lot of use.