...Buck....just came across your DIY video and it's exactly what I need to help me repair an elderly neighbor's mower with "no-charge" issue....great quality video and audio...thanks for posting... 🙂
Thank you so much. I have spent years jumping my John Deere 118 because it would not hold a charge. This information gives me a great place to start checking things. Thank you so much for taking the timE to share your knowledge
Excellent and understandable video. I have a truck-mounted carpet cleaning machine that uses a 23 hp B & S engine. I think either the voltage regulator is burned out or possibly the stator. It is not nearly as accessible as a lawn mower because of how the machine is made, but all in all, it's basically the exact same type of system just a little more complicated and hard to work on. Getting to the stator is the biggest issue so I need to find out for sure if that's bad or not. If it is I may have to hire a professional service on this one for help. Anyway, your video was a big help because I'm pretty dumb when it comes to these things, but even I fully understood everything you did. Thanks!!!
Interesting! I would start by verifying DC voltage at the battery with the engine running full throttle. 13 or 14 volts DC would indicate that everything is working just fine. I was also just wondering in your situation if it were possible to use the truck alternator to charge the machine battery just like it charges the truck battery? That might be an easy work around.... Good luck with the repair, and I'd be interested to know how it turns out.
Thank you Buck I am an auto tech for more than 40 years very well versed in automotive but not in all mowers that was very informative I appreciate your step-by-step analysis
Great video with important details such as the AC & DC voltages that should be present from the stator and voltage regulator respectively. I have a Husqvarna but voltages should be at or near the same values. Also read that if you have your lights on while the mower is running then stop the mower the lights should dim. If not then there is a problem somewhere in the charging system. Great video Buck!
Great video! Working on a 1984 John Deere 116, somebody sabotaged the wiring on mine. I know my Staters putting out in my regulator is Black Box old school type before this era came out. Going to retest mine tomorrow after watching your video verifying a few things
I have a brand new china mini skid steer. The unit worked great except for one issue. It would not keep the battery charged. Followed these instructions and found the red lead from the voltage regulator had not been connected at the factory. Had to undo every wire bundle to find it. Had 45-50 volts at the stator. Thank you.
Was about to order a 130$ stator just before watching your video. Only to find out that mine was outputing DC and AC flawlessly like yours. Thanks for your time!
Excellent work, Buck. Now I know how to troubleshoot and repair the electric system on my tractor mower. Really only two components after verifying wiring is good. Every step covered and well explained. I'll check the regulated Voltage to battery just to see.
I really appreciated your repair video. I'm not saying that you made it look easy, you just made it look like anyone with a few tools and the desire to fix things can do so much to maintain their own equipment. Thanks, Al.
DUDE your vids are the Best !! thanks TONS for this one ! ive had this issue and a battery salesman convinced me that i have to replace the battery every year because they're all junk. i did the coils replacement, voltage regulator AND the coils... same issue... ran across your vid and BOOM - Done ! My machine is the Ariens 22 B&S V Twin, so close to the same beast... it mows MEGA lawn spring thru fall, and plows Montana snow for a whole cul-de-sac in the winter... so its a busy machine !! Thanks for your time and effort making this vid !!
A very good video!!You showed me every thing that I need to know to check out a charging system on a Husqvarna mower that may have a charging problem.Thank you so much!!
This is exactly what I needed and I love all the explanations with the multimeter (not my strong suit). Thank you so much for taking the time to explain everything! Greetings from central Alberta, Canada🇨🇦
Great video! I watched several others before I got to your video. My problem was the connection on the regulator that goes to the battery. You made it super easy to find and after just a few minutes it's working perfectly. Thank you for making this video!
Thanks for step by step diagnosis. Son in law has 2002 Simplicity Broadmoor 16 hp B&S Itek engine 405777 with Tuff Torq Hydrostatic tranny. Hour meter over 550 hours. Battery new but runs down after 2-3 weeks. Will first check for bad wiring.
All that effort and did not clean outer magnets on flywheel or the coil ends that go towards outer magnets on flywheel. It would of also been great if you could of shown the inner magnets on flywheel. Other than that I was thankful of the way you tested to verify the bad part and then showing new part and numbers. Thank you....Pete
Thanks, Pete. According to Briggs & Stratton, cleaning the flywheel magnets is an unnecessary step unless the built-up rust is negatively impacting the required air gap. That's what I've heard, anyway....
Thanks for the help. Using your video I found my 50 inch craftsman 26 hp. Problem. It’s where the alternator wires come out from under the plastic cover. that cover chafed my wires, once I repaired that it was good again. I should have tried to fix it years ago instead of replacing batteries. I have since put a small piece of foam on the plastic cover to prevent it from happening in the future. I suspect a lot of B and S engines with that cover may suffer the same fate
I am a mechanical moron but after watching your video i actually fixed my 17 year old tractor. I was about to spend $2000.00 for a new one. Thank you, thank you thank you!!!
That's called putting the "Do" into "Do-It-Yourself!" Great job! Saving $2000 feels really good, doesn't it? Amalgamated Association of Morons 6 and 7/8th !!
Great video. I went out on Sunday and my Ariens Zero turn battery was dead. I put my charger on the battery and got it running but when I got off in the yard it was dead again. I put it on the charger longer and got done. I was getting ready to call Ariens for warranty work but now I can check my stater and regulator before I call. Thanks. Great video.
Check the voltage at the battery with the engine running full throttle. If you're getting 14 volts or so, your charging system is fine. Possibly it's just time for a new battery??
Spectacular video! This is the exact information I needed. I'm learning as I go and this was my next step. Thank you for your time and thanks for sharing sir. Peace and love from Atlanta
Wonderful detailed explanation and trouble shooting for charging problem....I have current issue on john deer l120 model, battery dies now and then...gonna check regulator and alternator....
I wonder why they don't push current into the stater so that it works like an electric bike motor to start the engine, would save a whole motor ! Great video, helped me a lot.
Thanks for the video. I have a 13 HP Brigs experiencing similar charging issues. At full throttle I am only getting 12 to 12.3 volts DC to the battery. Time to do the same. The mower is about 11 years old. Started up after replacing the battery but have to use my jump box every time to start it since. ;-)
Hi, thanks for the video! When you were testing the regulator I couldn't see where you were putting the negative lead after the regulator/stator was replaced. The jumper was in and the output to the battery had the positive lead and I can only assume the negative probe was on negative post on battery when you did that regulator/stator test. I could only get a reading of 14+ volts on the regulator when I put the negative lead on output from regulator and positive lead on output to the battery without using the jumper wire.
Yes, the negative lead can be placed on the engine block or any bare metal on the tractor frame, or of course, on the negative battery terminal. 14 volts sounds about right to me....
@@Buckwsr that wire coming out of voltage regulator to charge the battery. Where does it go to. Mines putting out 15 volts or so. But wen i test the wire coming from the battery up to the regulator hookup. I should have battery voltage and i do not. I tried a direct wire from regulator to battery and fried a new regulator so now i have another one and do not wanna burn that one up. Thanks in advance
@@cspbldg I'm not entirely sure I understand your question... The 14 or so volts from the regulator (with engine running at full throttle) should go up to the key switch, and then make connection with battery positive when the key is in the "run" position.
Gives me a good start on my similar Craftsman mower. Soon as I can find a 9V for my meter, I'll be taking a look. Been having to charge my battery at the wall every two times I mow. Slight annoyance, not much else haha.
I'm in my 3rd Season with my 2021 craftsman T240 tractor no issues with the battery starts every time I live in Oklahoma it gets very cold in the Northeast section where I live many times below O in the Winter time I disconnect the negative side of the battery for the off season..No problems
You can rewind that part with magnet wire and solder on the old connections. I am not trying to be that guy but if you can't get a replacement then this is a option and a surprisingly easy one at that.
Thank you so much for this video. Excellent description!!!! My John Deere has not been charging for a few years so I just jump start. Haha. I hope to repair it this summer.
Thanks for the note. I believe the reason the stator failed was due to jump-starting the tractor instead of charging the battery. An electric PTO requires a fully charged battery to operate properly. When you jump-start the tractor with a low battery, then engage the electric PTO, the draw on the stator is just too great. It can't handle that much load, and it burnt up. There are other videos out there on this topic. But the lesson is...never jump start a tractor that has an electric PTO. I know that the owner of this tractor was jump-starting the tractor instead of charging or replacing the battery. That is what caused this problem. Thanks again.
Nice job with the video. Very helpful info. The only thing I'd suggest is being very careful hammering on the crank shaft end when trying to pull the flywheel. I always put the nut back on the shaft so that I hammer the nut rather than risk deforming the end of the shaft. But... you were careful & it all worked out. Thank you.
Excellent video! Taught like a real pro with excellent knowledge and experience! But you made it showing that anyone can do it. I’ve worked on cars all my life but never did a whole lot on small engines other then cleaning carbs. So this expanded my knowledge. I did my first engine swap. Can you do a video on engine swaps from brand to brand and shaft sizes? I didn’t realize that there were different brand engines that will work on the same frames.
Excellent video! What is the size for the socket for the metal wheel over the alternator? 30 mm, 31 mm, 32 mm, or... I would be most grateful, if you would tell me.
A test device to simulate an a/c charge would be handy to fully diagnose before even replacing the stator. You could simulate an a/c charge current into the "regulator"(diode) and check the dc voltage out as long as the test device is capable of being in a known good working order to produce such signals. Good video BTW.
I have a Husqvarna which is basically the same mower. I cannot get 12v to show on the red wire leaving the voltage regulator (2:09) with the key on. I have been chasing wires for 2 days. Even tried a different key switch.
Your video solved my problem. I have a few steps you didn't mention. My first step is to check the fuses(s). When doing work like this, I like to set up a portable picnic table near my work area. Here in FL, during hot weather, I set up a portable canopy for outside work. When removing screws, I use a paint-filled felt-tipped marker and write the size on the fasteners near the screw holes. Where wires run under a retainer plate or holes, I mark that spot with my marker using the same color(s) as the wire(s) and draw an arrow to indicate where the wires go. If you find that the retainer key on the shaft is broken, you may have discovered the problem. With the engine cover removed, I check the stator gap. Loosen the pickup screws, and the pickup will be drawn to the stator because of the magnets. I use a standard business card to set this gap. Also, the card allows me to move the pickup in and out while I tighten the screws. When using extension wires, I attach small alligator clips to the ends of the wires.
Thanks for posting this. I have a very similar tractor as yours (YT3500, 22hp Briggs, approx 2013), but on the spot where your regulator is, I have nothing. Scratching my head how to test it if i cant find it lol. My main issue is, I dont seem to have enough power to start the tractor after its been running for a few mins, but starts fine when cold...battery voltage is about 12.5 when cold.
If you get 14 or so volts at the battery when the engine is running full throttle, then your charging system is fine. I wonder if maybe the problem is your starter motor? 12.5V sounds about right to me for your battery when engine is not running.
@@Buckwsr Thanks. I had the old starter tested, they said it was ok, but I bought a new one anyway lol but still have the problem, also previously changed the solenoid and battery...A real headscratcher. BTW, I dont get as much as 14v at the battery at full throttle...IIRC, more like high 12's. How long should it have to run to get up to 14?
@@BeerLeagueGoalieGodfather Should be 14V or so immediately when at full throttle. Anyway, I did a quick online search. Do it yourself with the words "Briggs will not start warm". Found a discussion suggesting a leaking needle and seat in the carburetor which floods out a warm engine by not shutting off the flow of fuel as it should. Hence, refuses to start. That extra fuel evaporates when the engine sits, and therefore has no trouble starting cold. Do that search and see what you can learn.
Very very good video, thank you.. Same engine as mine and your body looks exactly like my polan pro..think they just slap different decals on them for different makes..thank you again well done video.
I’m thinking that’s what’s going wrong on my 2018 cub cadet xt2 slx50 I’ve already replaced the battery and now today when I went to cut the yard the battery light keep coming on. The battery is brand new. I really appreciate for this video also. Imma check these two things out tomorrow hopefully.
Hi I got 2 small led light bars with wire harness and switch ...I've already replaced 1 battery got a new one and it worked for a few weeks usually start the mower 1 time a week .. well today it died and didn't want to turn back over until I connected my jumper cables to my truck...would those led lights drain my batter after a while ?
@@Thurge If yours is set up the same as mine, with the externally mounted regulator, I would say yes you probably should expect around 30Volts AC directly from the alternator.
I can't find any information on where the 14 volt dc wire on the regulator for the 24 hp briggs on the husqvarna r4824 zero turn is attached. Mine is missing. I have no idea how it disappeared. I assume it goes to the key switch someplace but I can't find any place that the wire can plug into. There are many videos show how to test the wire connection but I haven't seen and on replacing it if its bad or in my case missing. If you could steer me to a wiring diagram that show where it's attached. I would be very appreciative. Thank you very much I really enjoyed your videos. I found very in formative
One option is simply to add that wire from the regulator to the terminal on the starter solenoid...the large terminal that runs directly back to battery positive. Then run the engine full throttle and make sure you're getting like 14 volts at the battery.
Great video! I just got a new battery for my Craftman 20 hp mower. Started right up first time then 2nd time won't start the mower. Should I check the regulator first and the the alternator? Not sure where the regulator is.
Great video. Very much appreciate you taking the time to show us how to do it. Can you tell me the size of the flywheel nut so I can get a socked to take it off? I don't have an impact tool but I think I can borrow one. If not could I use a half inch socket wrench breaker bar.?
I think it's a 15/16" inch socket. If you use a breaker bar, you'll have to devise a way to keep the engine from spinning. That's why an impact gun is easier. Good luck, and thanks for watching the video.
Great video. I will keep those test voltages for reference.I have same mower, only issues so far was sump gasket, fuel hoses and carb. Have you removed the gas tank on this mower. I planned to but it looks like a nightmare. Other models the rear end unbolts and slides off. If you have a couple days you should do a video. Thanks and keep them coming. Especially the Craftsman YT4500 26 HP CJ
Thanks for the note. I did a number of repairs on this mower. Actually had to rebuild the engine, which was a bit of a gamble, but worked out great in the end. I also have a video on replacing the ground drive belt. I no longer have the mower, but it was in great running condition when I got rid of it. I never had to remove the fuel tank. Thanks again.
Hello Buckwsr, yup it is partially cooked, It is the coils doing the work, when they are good all magnetic force from the flywheel goes into the turns of the coils to make the volts and the thickness or size of the wire is what determines the amps. So if a few coils are cookt, the current goes thru less turns of the coil, So less volts are generated. power is = to volts X amps and even if the amps are constant due to wire size, the voltage being generated will be less due to the shorted turns.
...Buck....just came across your DIY video and it's exactly what I need to help me repair an elderly neighbor's mower with "no-charge" issue....great
quality video and audio...thanks for posting... 🙂
Thank you so much!
Very nice work Buck. I think you have probably helped a lot of people by making this video, including me. Thank you!!
Thank you so much. I have spent years jumping my John Deere 118 because it would not hold a charge. This information gives me a great place to start checking things. Thank you so much for taking the timE to share your knowledge
Excellent and understandable video. I have a truck-mounted carpet cleaning machine that uses a 23 hp B & S engine. I think either the voltage regulator is burned out or possibly the stator. It is not nearly as accessible as a lawn mower because of how the machine is made, but all in all, it's basically the exact same type of system just a little more complicated and hard to work on. Getting to the stator is the biggest issue so I need to find out for sure if that's bad or not. If it is I may have to hire a professional service on this one for help. Anyway, your video was a big help because I'm pretty dumb when it comes to these things, but even I fully understood everything you did. Thanks!!!
Interesting! I would start by verifying DC voltage at the battery with the engine running full throttle. 13 or 14 volts DC would indicate that everything is working just fine. I was also just wondering in your situation if it were possible to use the truck alternator to charge the machine battery just like it charges the truck battery? That might be an easy work around.... Good luck with the repair, and I'd be interested to know how it turns out.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us 😂 I have a similar problem and will investigate asap.
All the best, Dave (Scotland)
Thank you Buck I am an auto tech for more than 40 years very well versed in automotive but not in all mowers that was very informative I appreciate your step-by-step analysis
Thanks so much!
One 0f the best DYI i have ever seen. You covered all the bases in detail thank you very much
Perfect walkthrough - exactly what I needed to do with my John Deere mower. Thanks for explaining, demonstrating, and uploaded sir!
Ok, great. I hope you're tractor is back up and running again!
Great video. Step by step and very methodical. I just tested and ordered my stator/alternator today. Time to have some fun! Thanks!
Great video with important details such as the AC & DC voltages that should be present from the stator and voltage regulator respectively. I have a Husqvarna but voltages should be at or near the same values. Also read that if you have your lights on while the mower is running then stop the mower the lights should dim. If not then there is a problem somewhere in the charging system. Great video Buck!
I'll be helping my neighbor with this tomorrow. Great presentation! Thank you!
Great video! Working on a 1984 John Deere 116, somebody sabotaged the wiring on mine. I know my Staters putting out in my regulator is Black Box old school type before this era came out. Going to retest mine tomorrow after watching your video verifying a few things
I have a brand new china mini skid steer. The unit worked great except for one issue. It would not keep the battery charged. Followed these instructions and found the red lead from the voltage regulator had not been connected at the factory. Had to undo every wire bundle to find it. Had 45-50 volts at the stator. Thank you.
Thanks to you, I got my mower to charge now. My issue was a bad wire and corrosion at a wire terminal.
Was about to order a 130$ stator just before watching your video. Only to find out that mine was outputing DC and AC flawlessly like yours. Thanks for your time!
Great. No point in replacing parts that aren't faulty. But is your battery charging? Or what is the problem you're trying to resolve?
Thanks, always appreciate people willing to do the work ??(and take the time to film and post) to aid others.
Thank you. Hope the video was helpful to you.
Nice video!!! If anyone has a Kawasaki Engine make sure to check for a bad fuse It could be blown preventing the battery to charge as well.
Thank you. You helped me fix my JD 118. I have been jumping it for years.
Excellent work, Buck. Now I know how to troubleshoot and repair the electric system on my tractor mower. Really only two components after verifying wiring is good. Every step covered and well explained. I'll check the regulated Voltage to battery just to see.
I really appreciated your repair video. I'm not saying that you made it look easy, you just made it look like anyone with a few tools and the desire to fix things can do so much to maintain their own equipment. Thanks, Al.
Thanks Al for sharing with me the DIY spirit!
DUDE your vids are the Best !! thanks TONS for this one ! ive had this issue and a battery salesman convinced me that i have to replace the battery every year because they're all junk. i did the coils replacement, voltage regulator AND the coils... same issue... ran across your vid and BOOM - Done !
My machine is the Ariens 22 B&S V Twin, so close to the same beast... it mows MEGA lawn spring thru fall, and plows Montana snow for a whole cul-de-sac in the winter... so its a busy machine !! Thanks for your time and effort making this vid !!
Thanks for the note and kind words! And good job fixing your own machine!
A very good video!!You showed me every thing that I need to know to check out a charging system on a Husqvarna mower that may have a charging problem.Thank you so much!!
This is exactly what I needed and I love all the explanations with the multimeter (not my strong suit). Thank you so much for taking the time to explain everything! Greetings from central Alberta, Canada🇨🇦
Thanks for your video. Very fortunate to find it as I am just now trying to repair my Briggs and Stratton for the same problem. Very helpful.
Great video! I watched several others before I got to your video. My problem was the connection on the regulator that goes to the battery. You made it super easy to find and after just a few minutes it's working perfectly. Thank you for making this video!
Great news. Good job fixing it yourself.
Thanks for step by step diagnosis. Son in law has 2002 Simplicity Broadmoor 16 hp B&S Itek engine 405777 with Tuff Torq Hydrostatic tranny. Hour meter over 550 hours. Battery new but runs down after 2-3 weeks. Will first check for bad wiring.
Have to admire the guts of someone working on the electrical system without unhooking the battery 😮
Was thinking the same thing
Right, cause 12v is so deadly. Could've shorted out his pacemaker.
@@joequillun7790 It isn't about 12V hurting you, it's about damage to the equipment.
@@BuckeyeNut123 OBD2?
@@joequillun7790 Any equipment within the circuit.
Thanks for a good video, very informative!
All that effort and did not clean outer magnets on flywheel or the coil ends that go towards outer magnets on flywheel. It would of also been great if you could of shown the inner magnets on flywheel. Other than that I was thankful of the way you tested to verify the bad part and then showing new part and numbers. Thank you....Pete
Thanks, Pete. According to Briggs & Stratton, cleaning the flywheel magnets is an unnecessary step unless the built-up rust is negatively impacting the required air gap. That's what I've heard, anyway....
I learned something new , I never knew that the stator was putting out ac current. Thanks much. Very educational video.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the help. Using your video I found my 50 inch craftsman 26 hp. Problem. It’s where the alternator wires come out from under the plastic cover. that cover chafed my wires, once I repaired that it was good again. I should have tried to fix it years ago instead of replacing batteries. I have since put a small piece of foam on the plastic cover to prevent it from happening in the future. I suspect a lot of B and S engines with that cover may suffer the same fate
What an incredibly thorough video! I just subscribed to your channel. Thank you for going through step by step and explaining how each part works.
Thank you so much!
I am a mechanical moron but after watching your video i actually fixed my 17 year old tractor. I was about to spend $2000.00 for a new one. Thank you, thank you thank you!!!
That's called putting the "Do" into "Do-It-Yourself!" Great job! Saving $2000 feels really good, doesn't it? Amalgamated Association of Morons 6 and 7/8th !!
I enjoyed watching you work. Thanks for the display of how it should be done.
Thank you very much!
Great video. I went out on Sunday and my Ariens Zero turn battery was dead. I put my charger on the battery and got it running but when I got off in the yard it was dead again. I put it on the charger longer and got done. I was getting ready to call Ariens for warranty work but now I can check my stater and regulator before I call. Thanks. Great video.
Check the voltage at the battery with the engine running full throttle. If you're getting 14 volts or so, your charging system is fine. Possibly it's just time for a new battery??
Informative video covering the basics of troubleshooting this issue on this engine. Well organized, thank you! :)
Very informative...T.
Great video! I'll be doing this to my mower this weekend as it is the same issue I'm having. Thank you!
Solid video! Thank you for sharing! and yes ... ''I'M GOOD WITH THAT!"
Is this the only way to test the regulator?
Spectacular video! This is the exact information I needed. I'm learning as I go and this was my next step. Thank you for your time and thanks for sharing sir. Peace and love from Atlanta
Great instructions. Clear and concise.
Wonderful detailed explanation and trouble shooting for charging problem....I have current issue on john deer l120 model, battery dies now and then...gonna check regulator and alternator....
I wonder why they don't push current into the stater so that it works like an electric bike motor to start the engine, would save a whole motor ! Great video, helped me a lot.
Just what I needed thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and skills.
Thanks for the video. I have a 13 HP Brigs experiencing similar charging issues. At full throttle I am only getting 12 to 12.3 volts DC to the battery. Time to do the same. The mower is about 11 years old. Started up after replacing the battery but have to use my jump box every time to start it since. ;-)
I think you just saved me a new mower! thanks for the detailed video!
Excellent Video! Shows me exactly what I need to do to check and change out my stator. Thanks
Thanks, Dave. Good luck with your tractor!
Always take a picture with your phone of every step during removal.
Lol
Bill
That's a very good tip. I do that all the time, sure saves time when I have to wait for parts.
Hi, thanks for the video! When you were testing the regulator I couldn't see where you were putting the negative lead after the regulator/stator was replaced. The jumper was in and the output to the battery had the positive lead and I can only assume the negative probe was on negative post on battery when you did that regulator/stator test. I could only get a reading of 14+ volts on the regulator when I put the negative lead on output from regulator and positive lead on output to the battery without using the jumper wire.
Yes, the negative lead can be placed on the engine block or any bare metal on the tractor frame, or of course, on the negative battery terminal. 14 volts sounds about right to me....
@@Buckwsr that wire coming out of voltage regulator to charge the battery. Where does it go to. Mines putting out 15 volts or so. But wen i test the wire coming from the battery up to the regulator hookup. I should have battery voltage and i do not. I tried a direct wire from regulator to battery and fried a new regulator so now i have another one and do not wanna burn that one up. Thanks in advance
@@cspbldg I'm not entirely sure I understand your question... The 14 or so volts from the regulator (with engine running at full throttle) should go up to the key switch, and then make connection with battery positive when the key is in the "run" position.
@@Buckwsr thats what i thought. Someone has the wire going from voltage reg to the amp meter
Very informative video, very clear speech. One the best how to's I've watched. Best wishes from Chris in Manchester England!
Thank you, Chris. I appreciate the encouragement! Thanks for watching the video.
rectifiers change ac to dc??
Gives me a good start on my similar Craftsman mower. Soon as I can find a 9V for my meter, I'll be taking a look. Been having to charge my battery at the wall every two times I mow. Slight annoyance, not much else haha.
Thank you for being so detailed. It was awesome for instructions and weeding out why my battery wouldn't stay charged.
Cool. I hope you were able to get it fixed!
Great video. My problem is that the battery may be overcharging. Does that suggest the regulator is faulty? Thanks.
I guess that's possible. What kind of voltage is it putting out at the battery when running full throttle?
I’ve never seen that happen unless the battery is bad and over working alt
Thanks Buck...I figured this is the problem with a friends mower..it's an older Craftsman...Excellant video..take care.
Thanks, Nathan.
I'm in my 3rd Season with my 2021 craftsman T240 tractor no issues with the battery starts every time I live in Oklahoma it gets very cold in the Northeast section where I live many times below O in the Winter time I disconnect the negative side of the battery for the off season..No problems
Thanks, now I have a few things to diagnose tomorrow.
You can rewind that part with magnet wire and solder on the old connections. I am not trying to be that guy but if you can't get a replacement then this is a option and a surprisingly easy one at that.
Good info. Thank you so much!
Nice, my YTH2448T is not charging and was getting output of nearly zero ac. Looks like a stator replacement is in order. Thank you.
Appreciate your time and clear instructions that solved my problems.
Topman good job man
Very short and thorough easily understood; thanks
Thank you!
Excelente Maestro 👍
Thanks so much for your video. That was very informative and helpful. From a follower in Sydney Australia.
Thanks so much, and good luck!
Thank you so much for this video. Excellent description!!!! My John Deere has not been charging for a few years so I just jump start. Haha. I hope to repair it this summer.
Thank you for nice video. U forgot to look at wiring and electric clutch for freys and shorting. Some fault caused the stator failure most likely.
Thanks for the note. I believe the reason the stator failed was due to jump-starting the tractor instead of charging the battery. An electric PTO requires a fully charged battery to operate properly. When you jump-start the tractor with a low battery, then engage the electric PTO, the draw on the stator is just too great. It can't handle that much load, and it burnt up. There are other videos out there on this topic. But the lesson is...never jump start a tractor that has an electric PTO. I know that the owner of this tractor was jump-starting the tractor instead of charging or replacing the battery. That is what caused this problem. Thanks again.
Nice job with the video. Very helpful info.
The only thing I'd suggest is being very careful hammering on the crank shaft end when trying to pull the flywheel. I always put the nut back on the shaft so that I hammer the nut rather than risk deforming the end of the shaft. But... you were careful & it all worked out. Thank you.
Thanks for the note and the good tips.
Nice video, thanks. I would have checked the regulator before going all the way to the alternator since it is in the circuit path after the battery.
It's easy to check the stator without removing it from the engine. And if the stator is bad, the regulator won't be working properly either...
Excellent video! Taught like a real pro with excellent knowledge and experience! But you made it showing that anyone can do it. I’ve worked on cars all my life but never did a whole lot on small engines other then cleaning carbs. So this expanded my knowledge. I did my first engine swap. Can you do a video on engine swaps from brand to brand and shaft sizes? I didn’t realize that there were different brand engines that will work on the same frames.
Exactly what I need to see to do mine!!! Thanks!!!! Enjoyed.
Great video. Clear and detailed enough to be a real help. Thanks mate 👍.
Thanks, Buck, a really great video, I have learned a lot from it.
Outstanding video. Have me everything I need to the diagnosis and repair.
I liked the impact tool you used. Would you mind telling what kind it is and where to get one?
It's made by Baurer tools, sold by Harbor Freight Tools. Still working great today! Thanks.
Excellent video!
What is the size for the socket for the metal wheel over the alternator? 30 mm, 31 mm, 32 mm, or... I would be most grateful, if you would tell me.
It's probably 15/16" (inch). But I don't specifically remember....
A test device to simulate an a/c charge would be handy to fully diagnose before even replacing the stator. You could simulate an a/c charge current into the "regulator"(diode) and check the dc voltage out as long as the test device is capable of being in a known good working order to produce such signals. Good video BTW.
I have a Husqvarna which is basically the same mower. I cannot get 12v to show on the red wire leaving the voltage regulator (2:09) with the key on. I have been chasing wires for 2 days. Even tried a different key switch.
Worked for me, many many thanks. From Scotland.
That's great. Is it hard to get repair parts in Scotland for these mowers?
@@Buckwsr
Its hard to get anything in Scotland
Your video solved my problem. I have a few steps you didn't mention. My first step is to check the fuses(s). When doing work like this, I like to set up a portable picnic table near my work area. Here in FL, during hot weather, I set up a portable canopy for outside work. When removing screws, I use a paint-filled felt-tipped marker and write the size on the fasteners near the screw holes. Where wires run under a retainer plate or holes, I mark that spot with my marker using the same color(s) as the wire(s) and draw an arrow to indicate where the wires go. If you find that the retainer key on the shaft is broken, you may have discovered the problem. With the engine cover removed, I check the stator gap. Loosen the pickup screws, and the pickup will be drawn to the stator because of the magnets. I use a standard business card to set this gap. Also, the card allows me to move the pickup in and out while I tighten the screws. When using extension wires, I attach small alligator clips to the ends of the wires.
Thanks for posting this. I have a very similar tractor as yours (YT3500, 22hp Briggs, approx 2013), but on the spot where your regulator is, I have nothing. Scratching my head how to test it if i cant find it lol. My main issue is, I dont seem to have enough power to start the tractor after its been running for a few mins, but starts fine when cold...battery voltage is about 12.5 when cold.
If you get 14 or so volts at the battery when the engine is running full throttle, then your charging system is fine. I wonder if maybe the problem is your starter motor? 12.5V sounds about right to me for your battery when engine is not running.
@@Buckwsr Thanks. I had the old starter tested, they said it was ok, but I bought a new one anyway lol but still have the problem, also previously changed the solenoid and battery...A real headscratcher. BTW, I dont get as much as 14v at the battery at full throttle...IIRC, more like high 12's. How long should it have to run to get up to 14?
@@BeerLeagueGoalieGodfather Should be 14V or so immediately when at full throttle. Anyway, I did a quick online search. Do it yourself with the words "Briggs will not start warm". Found a discussion suggesting a leaking needle and seat in the carburetor which floods out a warm engine by not shutting off the flow of fuel as it should. Hence, refuses to start. That extra fuel evaporates when the engine sits, and therefore has no trouble starting cold. Do that search and see what you can learn.
Very very good video, thank you..
Same engine as mine and your body looks exactly like my polan pro..think they just slap different decals on them for different makes..thank you again well done video.
Thank you, and good luck with your tractor!
Excellent video!! Appreciate the step by step instructions! (I know I stole the review from below, but his is exactly what I wanted to say.)
Thank you
Very interesting work. It will be of great help in future.
I’m thinking that’s what’s going wrong on my 2018 cub cadet xt2 slx50 I’ve already replaced the battery and now today when I went to cut the yard the battery light keep coming on. The battery is brand new. I really appreciate for this video also. Imma check these two things out tomorrow hopefully.
Great video. Good information, Great presentation. GOOD JOB!
Excellent Video. Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for showing this .it help me.tanks.
Thank you.
Thanks a million Buckwsr !!!
Hi I got 2 small led light bars with wire harness and switch ...I've already replaced 1 battery got a new one and it worked for a few weeks usually start the mower 1 time a week .. well today it died and didn't want to turn back over until I connected my jumper cables to my truck...would those led lights drain my batter after a while ?
Great info! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Great video!! Thanks for the learning opportunity!!
Great video thanks for all that information.
Outstanding video!!! Nice job
Very clear instructions. Will the DC voltage be different on a smaller engine? I have a 13.5 hp B&S motor that's not charging the battery.
Check battery voltage before starting the tractor. Then check battery voltage again at full throttle. Should be higher, closer to 13 volts, I'd say.
@@Buckwsr I apologize, I meant to say will the AC voltage be around 30 on a 13.5 hp motor?
@@Thurge If yours is set up the same as mine, with the externally mounted regulator, I would say yes you probably should expect around 30Volts AC directly from the alternator.
Made my day. Thanks!
I can't find any information on where the 14 volt dc wire on the regulator for the 24 hp briggs on the husqvarna r4824 zero turn is attached. Mine is missing. I have no idea how it disappeared. I assume it goes to the key switch someplace but I can't find any place that the wire can plug into. There are many videos show how to test the wire connection but I haven't seen and on replacing it if its bad or in my case missing. If you could steer me to a wiring diagram that show where it's attached. I would be very appreciative. Thank you very much I really enjoyed your videos. I found very in formative
One option is simply to add that wire from the regulator to the terminal on the starter solenoid...the large terminal that runs directly back to battery positive. Then run the engine full throttle and make sure you're getting like 14 volts at the battery.
Good lesson instructor
Great video! I just got a new battery for my Craftman 20 hp mower. Started right up first time then 2nd time won't start the mower. Should I check the regulator first and the the alternator?
Not sure where the regulator is.
Great video. Very much appreciate you taking the time to show us how to do it. Can you tell me the size of the flywheel nut so I can get a socked to take it off? I don't have an impact tool but I think I can borrow one. If not could I use a half inch socket wrench breaker bar.?
I think it's a 15/16" inch socket. If you use a breaker bar, you'll have to devise a way to keep the engine from spinning. That's why an impact gun is easier. Good luck, and thanks for watching the video.
Great video. I will keep those test voltages for reference.I have same mower, only issues so far was sump gasket, fuel hoses and carb. Have you removed the gas tank on this mower. I planned to but it looks like a nightmare. Other models the rear end unbolts and slides off. If you have a couple days you should do a video. Thanks and keep them coming. Especially the Craftsman YT4500 26 HP CJ
Thanks for the note. I did a number of repairs on this mower. Actually had to rebuild the engine, which was a bit of a gamble, but worked out great in the end. I also have a video on replacing the ground drive belt. I no longer have the mower, but it was in great running condition when I got rid of it. I never had to remove the fuel tank. Thanks again.
Hello Buckwsr, yup it is partially cooked, It is the coils doing the work, when they are good all magnetic force
from the flywheel goes into the turns of the coils to make the volts and the thickness or size of the wire is
what determines the amps. So if a few coils are cookt, the current goes thru less turns of the coil, So less
volts are generated. power is = to volts X amps and even if the amps are constant due to wire size, the voltage
being generated will be less due to the shorted turns.