Awesome video. I have a 6.75 Biggs and Stratton on a pressure washer that lost compression. Your video was clear. Found the same problem... easy fix. Saved me from buying a new motor. THANKS !!!!
Well done! I was giving up on my Toro until I saw this, and it is only a few years old. It was going in the trash tomorrow but now I'm back cutting the lawn. Thanks.
Thank you, My 8 year old Craftsman with the B & G 7.25 had the same problem a week ago and I just pushed the seat back in place. Initially it ran but was underwhelming, but as the compression stroke hammered that intake valve and seat it slowly picked up and a few minutes on it ran like it was supposed to run. If it happens again I'll remember to peen/stake it in place (google hits show both terms are valid). And thanks for showing that side access panel to the valve springs, I've seen it and it didn't register that it was for the valves, it'll make future repairs more possible.
I just got inside from mowing the lawn today with this mower - it still starts first pull and runs perfectly. The handle broke off this spring soI had to weld that back on, and the wheel drive system is wearing out now too. But at least the engine still runs! For now...
Keep making videos. You make some of the highest quality content videos I seen covering a large range of interests. You must be an engineer, electrical I imagine given your inverter review videos which are all excellent. Thank you
These guys in the comments sure know how you should have done it don’t they? I don’t see any of them offering to do it for you though. Everything you did was fine, I performed this same fix on my push mower, but I was able to just remove the head with the engine still on the deck and everything still attached to the engine. Although I wouldn’t recommended it I have had one mower for 4 years now with a ripped head gasket that has just recently met it’s maker because of connecting rod problems. that 5w-30 is perfectly fine because the “W” stands for “winter” or below freezing and the 30 is what it will be at operating temp so after the engine warms up it’s the same as SAE 30. I’ve also run 5w-20 but that’s better for colder times, almost all lawn mowers recommend 10w-30. I’ve never had an oil related problem, in the end any oil is better then no oil And synthetic oil is just better
Thumbs up from me. I'm not an expert on valve lapping but I know the basics. As for lubrication I agree, though I'd not put 20 weight oil in air cooled engines as they run so hot. If a summer designed engine is ran in the winter that might make sense. Synthetic breaks down slower due to the more homogenous chain size so the only thing it can do is help engines that run particularly hot. I still use non synthetic in my non DI cars. But not my air cooled engines.
As was I. I now know that this isn't terribly uncommon. I later adjusted the carb a little richer and it has more lugging power now. I think it was running a bit hot in long grass causing the seat to loosen over time.
@@knurlgnar24 Mine was on a pressure washer. I had just got it. Ran great for a couple tanks of gas. It ran out of gas (Lean) and wouldn't start after that. I'll tear it down and see what I find.
Good job. Any updates on the engine? The only things I would recommend is peening the seat 100% all the way around instead of just in a few places. You should try to grind the valve stems to get about .006 thousandths clearance on the intake valve and around 12 thousandths on the exhaust. (looser is better than tighter). The valves will almost always wear tighter in clearance because of valve seat wear and you'll burn those valves running them as tight as they are. The head bolts get about 140 inch pounds of torque or about 12 to 13 lb. feet. It is absolutely OK to reuse the head gasket if it isn't damaged with a little sealer on it.
You sound like you know what you're talking about - something rare on TH-cam it would seem. I agree that peening around the full circumference would be better but I didn't know that at the time and was in a hurry to get the job done. :) That said the mower still runs perfectly. I left the valves alone because they ran like that for 22 years without issue and I didn't want to mess with what was working and risk messing it up. Thanks for the info!
***** Glad to help. I've been working on these engines as a hobby for over 30 years. I have some antique cast iron Briggs and Stratton engines from the 1940s and 1950s that still run great. It's crazy to pay other people to work on these. They are ridiculously simple engines. The main thing is that you weren't intimidated about tearing into it yourself and it payed off ! Peace!
scdevon Just curious - what do you think of the quality of Briggs today compared with years ago? It seems to me they've really gone downhill but you've seen more of them than I have.
***** With the economy with the way it is and the number of competitors in the market, it is easy to see that B&S would inevitably cut corners to save costs and remain slightly competitive. But perhaps their success also contributed to their decline, given how robust their old engines are. Today manufacturers cut costs by reducing the thickness of the sump and cylinder walls, introducing plastic carburetors (some that are unserviceable), plastic gas tanks, plastic cowling and reducing the number of piston rings from 2 or 3 to 1. Bingo, lifespan of the engine and parts instantly reduced. That's why if have an old B&S, don't throw it out, replace necessary parts, recondition it and you will have an engine that will last you another decade. Plus you get to bypass all problems and headaces that come with purchasing the cheap, poor quality consumer junk that gets produced and marketed today.
Hey, google will get you all the information you need. It’s a good thing to do before starting any project or just before restarting a rebuild. Makes life easier.
Real life doesn't work that way bud. Often it's better to just dig in and do it when you have the skills to get it done rather than frumping around thinking 'it could be that, or that, or maybe this...' Just look at it and find out and move on. Good information is often not to be found on google and incorrect information is all over. I run into that all the time on technical projects, even for things that are common knowledge on the internet. It's often not correct. "It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."
@@knurlgnar24 I will tell you that for specs or ideas on something I am working on which I may not have the manual, Google or the manufacturer’s website would be my first order of business. And, I have found it to be prudent always as it saves time and pretty much the confidence to do the work at hand.
Glad to hear you were able to fix it instead of throwing it out. Mine is still running great as well and hopefully it makes it through this season too!
Same thing just happened to mine. I got some wire tangled up in the blade and killed the motor. I went to start it again after I removed the wire and no compression? I took it apart and now looking into what holds the valve seats in? will try the peening method tomorrow. Like you this mower is 20 years old and a runner so if I can get more out of it all the better. When I do get a new one someday will try the new electric. Neighbor has one and so far works great.
Nothing holds the valve seats in but a friction fit from the factory and as long as it isn't overheated that's good enough. I think mine was running a bit lean causing my problem. I also enriched the mixture a bit which gave it more torque when it bogs down and I still mow with this machine today. I guess it's 30 years old now. :)
Thanks for responding. I saw a couple videos today after the seat was put back in to use a punch to pen the aluminum towards the seat which holds it in. Going to try that
140 ft lbs. I'm rebuilding my 190000 series now and on mine and all the others I've seen it's 140. I can double check on the value clearance in my manual if you need it but almost sure it's what I said above.
If someone would have bought that engine to my shop I would of replaced both valve seats and valves there is no clearance between the valve and lifter what you did was a great job for a first timer couple mistakes but I hope the engine started
.005"-.007" on the intake valve. .009"-.011" on the exhaust side. If the valve seat ever fails again, pien it ALL the way around, much better chance of it never failing again. One thing I noticed is 89 octane or higher burns much cleaner in these engines and they run quite a bit cooler as well.
Will you have it apart you should take a wire brush on a electrical weel and clean carbon off the cylinder head and clean piston also. You should lap the valves also and clean them and you should replace the head gasket with new one. Head gaskets only five or ten dollars. Any small mom and pop lawnmower shop will have parts for it.
Well well thanks buddy got my valve seat stay on properly now, but of course i had to turn the random nut that was there to attach the fly wheel back on in this random engine i found for free and it was with wrong pitch.. welp Russian up treads it shall be.
I have a 1991 Ariens looks like yours except mine is not self-propelled. Can't get myself to throw it away, not when I can see the valve-seat shifted thru the spark plug hole. Anyhow there is a replacement engine from Briggs.
Mario Alegre puede q se haya roto la cuña del volante y se haya movido esto hace q mande la chispa adelantado o atrasado y no cierran o abren las valvulas en en momento exacto
That is the compression release, correct? I had thought that most of these older inexpensive engines had a fixed compression release feature on the cam.
Two hours? You've got to be kidding - you've apparently never read a user manual. And you are incorrect: Air cooled engines should use synthetic especially if you are in a cold climate like me where you often have to use the mower in near freezing temps. 10w-30 synth needs fewer viscosity improvers than normal 10w-30 and is more like standard 30 weight in high temp performance. Straight 30 weight is a very poor idea unless you live is a warm climate.
The inlet valve clearance is 0.15mm & the exhaust valve clearance is 0.25mm on the 3.5 HP underhead valve engines,the valves have to be removed & the end of the valve stems need to be reground so the valve heads won't overheat & burn out. The cylinder head bolt torque is 16 newton meters. I have to lap the valves in mine because it has a bit of a misfire at idle speed,it spits back through the muffler because the valves leak a bit. I did a wet leak test after pulling the cylinder heads off,you can see the wetness around each valve :- m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=692636007592735&id=100005390262695&set=a.692635830926086.1073741846.100005390262695&source=56&ref=bookmarks m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=692636034259399&id=100005390262695&set=a.692635830926086.1073741846.100005390262695&source=56&ref=bookmarks
you should change oil either once a year or every two hours of use. do not use syenthetic oil on a air cooled engine big no no. Use thirty weight oil. Warm the engine before changing oil that will get rid of particles from the engine. Dont use a impact that can damage those engines use a regular socket and wrenches. Those engines when runing good have about 120 to 125 pounds of compression. Move the flywheel counter clock wise if it has a tight sharp rebound you got good compression.
sillyman171 There is no direct valve adjustment but you can remove them and grind the stems to shorten or weld and grind to lengthen. The camshaft can also get pitted and worn but that wouldn't cause loss of compression. Smoke on startup makes me think it may be simple ring/bore wear but you'd have to tear it down to verify that assumption.
Still going. I didn't do a very good job of it as I didn't know the proper technique and didn't want to crack the seat, but it seems to be good enough. If done properly it will stay in for the life of the engine/seat/valve.
Thanks for your comment, I very much appreciate such support. I don't make any money from this and I make videos only as a hobby. Also, your assumptions on my profession are very astute. :)
Not sure what I said in the video but if you're talking oil that sounds like too much. It does require the better part of a quart when I change it though so more than a modern GCV honda or the like.
Yup. Still runs great, but the self propelled drive mechanism is now wearing out. I have a bearing on order that I hope will extend the life a little more. Sure, I could always just push it but apparently I'm too lazy to do that. :)
There's no reason to clean the carbon - it's been running 20 years like that just fine and will have carbon after a few uses again. The valves seal well and aren't burnt so there's no reason to lap them, and Briggs and Straton themselves recommends reusing the head gasket on flatheads when reassembling. Good Lord man, your practical knowledge is severely lacking.
it is not called peening. no. for mechanics, it is called staking. like you would stake a goat out with a rope tied to a pin driven in the ground. the pin is called a stake. thus staking
I have heard this for years then found this Googling, "I have seen spark plugs blown right out of the head, mufflers blown off and even carbs blown out. Starting fluid has way too much kick for a small engine" Why take a chance? You already have gas and I'm sure you have carb cleaner. Liked your video and thought process and patience anyway. Cheers
First of all you don't use a 5W-30 oil in a small engine. These engines take a straight 30W oil, nothing else unless you are trying to destroy the engine. That is also not the way to fix a frozen valve and seat.
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video. I have a 6.75 Biggs and Stratton on a pressure washer that lost compression. Your video was clear. Found the same problem... easy fix. Saved me from buying a new motor. THANKS !!!!
I just love how you took so much time and effort to fix "just" to put Quaker State oil in it.
Well done! I was giving up on my Toro until I saw this, and it is only a few years old. It was going in the trash tomorrow but now I'm back cutting the lawn. Thanks.
Thank you, My 8 year old Craftsman with the B & G 7.25 had the same problem a week ago and I just pushed the seat back in place. Initially it ran but was underwhelming, but as the compression stroke hammered that intake valve and seat it slowly picked up and a few minutes on it ran like it was supposed to run. If it happens again I'll remember to peen/stake it in place (google hits show both terms are valid). And thanks for showing that side access panel to the valve springs, I've seen it and it didn't register that it was for the valves, it'll make future repairs more possible.
I just got inside from mowing the lawn today with this mower - it still starts first pull and runs perfectly. The handle broke off this spring soI had to weld that back on, and the wheel drive system is wearing out now too. But at least the engine still runs! For now...
Keep making videos. You make some of the highest quality content videos I seen covering a large range of interests. You must be an engineer, electrical I imagine given your inverter review videos which are all excellent. Thank you
These guys in the comments sure know how you should have done it don’t they? I don’t see any of them offering to do it for you though. Everything you did was fine, I performed this same fix on my push mower, but I was able to just remove the head with the engine still on the deck and everything still attached to the engine. Although I wouldn’t recommended it I have had one mower for 4 years now with a ripped head gasket that has just recently met it’s maker because of connecting rod problems. that 5w-30 is perfectly fine because the “W” stands for “winter” or below freezing and the 30 is what it will be at operating temp so after the engine warms up it’s the same as SAE 30. I’ve also run 5w-20 but that’s better for colder times, almost all lawn mowers recommend 10w-30. I’ve never had an oil related problem, in the end any oil is better then no oil And synthetic oil is just better
Thumbs up from me. I'm not an expert on valve lapping but I know the basics. As for lubrication I agree, though I'd not put 20 weight oil in air cooled engines as they run so hot. If a summer designed engine is ran in the winter that might make sense. Synthetic breaks down slower due to the more homogenous chain size so the only thing it can do is help engines that run particularly hot. I still use non synthetic in my non DI cars. But not my air cooled engines.
Great job! I haven't had to open any up like that, was surprised to see the valve seat like that.
As was I. I now know that this isn't terribly uncommon. I later adjusted the carb a little richer and it has more lugging power now. I think it was running a bit hot in long grass causing the seat to loosen over time.
@@knurlgnar24 Mine was on a pressure washer. I had just got it. Ran great for a couple tanks of gas. It ran out of gas (Lean) and wouldn't start after that. I'll tear it down and see what I find.
Thanks for the video. Same thing was happening on my exhaust valve. Peened them both. Running like a charm again.
Hey thanks for the video. Mine lost compression last season and I'm going to take it apart and see if it has the same issue as yours. Thanks again.
Some mistakes were made. Over all it was a great video. Thanks for posting it.
I definitely made mistakes. But had I not figured out why this lawnmower had a problem it wouldn't be the same mower I'm still using today.
Thank you ! That was my problem.
I fixed it because of your vid. Thanks again.
Good job. Any updates on the engine? The only things I would recommend is peening the seat 100% all the way around instead of just in a few places. You should try to grind the valve stems to get about .006 thousandths clearance on the intake valve and around 12 thousandths on the exhaust. (looser is better than tighter). The valves will almost always wear tighter in clearance because of valve seat wear and you'll burn those valves running them as tight as they are. The head bolts get about 140 inch pounds of torque or about 12 to 13 lb. feet. It is absolutely OK to reuse the head gasket if it isn't damaged with a little sealer on it.
You sound like you know what you're talking about - something rare on TH-cam it would seem. I agree that peening around the full circumference would be better but I didn't know that at the time and was in a hurry to get the job done. :) That said the mower still runs perfectly. I left the valves alone because they ran like that for 22 years without issue and I didn't want to mess with what was working and risk messing it up. Thanks for the info!
***** Glad to help. I've been working on these engines as a hobby for over 30 years. I have some antique cast iron Briggs and Stratton engines from the 1940s and 1950s that still run great. It's crazy to pay other people to work on these. They are ridiculously simple engines. The main thing is that you weren't intimidated about tearing into it yourself and it payed off ! Peace!
scdevon
Just curious - what do you think of the quality of Briggs today compared with years ago? It seems to me they've really gone downhill but you've seen more of them than I have.
***** With the economy with the way it is and the number of competitors in the market, it is easy to see that B&S would inevitably cut corners to save costs and remain slightly competitive. But perhaps their success also contributed to their decline, given how robust their old engines are. Today manufacturers cut costs by reducing the thickness of the sump and cylinder walls, introducing plastic carburetors (some that are unserviceable), plastic gas tanks, plastic cowling and reducing the number of piston rings from 2 or 3 to 1. Bingo, lifespan of the engine and parts instantly reduced. That's why if have an old B&S, don't throw it out, replace necessary parts, recondition it and you will have an engine that will last you another decade. Plus you get to bypass all problems and headaces that come with purchasing the cheap, poor quality consumer junk that gets produced and marketed today.
kaiok1777 *headaches
You did a fine job not knowing what you were doing
Hey, google will get you all the information you need. It’s a good thing to do before starting any project or just before restarting a rebuild. Makes life easier.
Real life doesn't work that way bud. Often it's better to just dig in and do it when you have the skills to get it done rather than frumping around thinking 'it could be that, or that, or maybe this...' Just look at it and find out and move on. Good information is often not to be found on google and incorrect information is all over. I run into that all the time on technical projects, even for things that are common knowledge on the internet. It's often not correct. "It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."
@@knurlgnar24 I will tell you that for specs or ideas on something I am working on which I may not have the manual, Google or the manufacturer’s website would be my first order of business. And, I have found it to be prudent always as it saves time and pretty much the confidence to do the work at hand.
the exact same thing happened to my mower and i fixed it over a year ago. and it still runs
Glad to hear you were able to fix it instead of throwing it out. Mine is still running great as well and hopefully it makes it through this season too!
the fix you did was allot better than what i did, i didnt even peen it. so it'll probably last longer than the rest of the engine
Same thing just happened to mine. I got some wire tangled up in the blade and killed the motor. I went to start it again after I removed the wire and no compression? I took it apart and now looking into what holds the valve seats in? will try the peening method tomorrow. Like you this mower is 20 years old and a runner so if I can get more out of it all the better. When I do get a new one someday will try the new electric. Neighbor has one and so far works great.
Nothing holds the valve seats in but a friction fit from the factory and as long as it isn't overheated that's good enough. I think mine was running a bit lean causing my problem. I also enriched the mixture a bit which gave it more torque when it bogs down and I still mow with this machine today. I guess it's 30 years old now. :)
Thanks for responding. I saw a couple videos today after the seat was put back in to use a punch to pen the aluminum towards the seat which holds it in. Going to try that
140 ft lbs. I'm rebuilding my 190000 series now and on mine and all the others I've seen it's 140.
I can double check on the value clearance in my manual if you need it but almost sure it's what I said above.
140 inch pounds between 11-13 ftllbs
If someone would have bought that engine to my shop I would of replaced both valve seats and valves there is no clearance between the valve and lifter what you did was a great job for a first timer couple mistakes but I hope the engine started
.005"-.007" on the intake valve. .009"-.011" on the exhaust side. If the valve seat ever fails again, pien it ALL the way around, much better chance of it never failing again. One thing I noticed is 89 octane or higher burns much cleaner in these engines and they run quite a bit cooler as well.
Still running great despite the non-ideal pien job. If I have to do it again I'd do it all the way around like you recommend.
Good deal, sometimes they hold forever and sometimes they hold for two mowing's. It's weird.
Will you have it apart you should take a wire brush on a electrical weel and clean carbon off the cylinder head and clean piston also. You should lap the valves also and clean them and you should replace the head gasket with new one. Head gaskets only five or ten dollars. Any small mom and pop lawnmower shop will have parts for it.
One and a quarter guarts of oil? How about 18-20 oz. Good job on the valve seat.
thanks for sharing! I have got the same problem en will try "peening all the way around".
Find top dead center on the compression stroke then ck clearance and do all your valve work at that point.
Well well thanks buddy got my valve seat stay on properly now, but of course i had to turn the random nut that was there to attach the fly wheel back on in this random engine i found for free and it was with wrong pitch.. welp Russian up treads it shall be.
meh, it'll still run with that bolt loose. for a while. :)
synthetic doesn't transfer heat like dino oil. dino oil only for air cooled engine.
you can find parts on eBay. i found parts for an old 50s tiller with a 4hp briggs on eBay
you might have a bad spring or the seat is worn out. the valve its self look good but the seat might be warn
140 lbs on the head. Clearance is max .07 min .05 I believe/
I have a 1991 Ariens looks like yours except mine is not self-propelled. Can't get myself to throw it away, not when I can see the valve-seat shifted thru the spark plug hole. Anyhow there is a replacement engine from Briggs.
I believe these engines are 'universal'. Both the standard Honda and Briggs engines would fit this deck.
Well its 10 years later... You gonna mow with it this spring?
Yup. Still using it.
just noticed how old this is..lol. Well how did it run?
14.0 ft*lb or 140?
No way. You put 140 ft lbs on one of those and... well it will snap long before you get to 140.
It's 140 in lb.
You should had ping all around the valve seat not just four corners also torque specks is around 20 foot pounds
I probably should have peened it better but this seemed to work. The mower is still running.
disculpame me gustaria que me mandes un video en español para regular valvulas porque no entendi nada y necesito arreglar mi maquina ok gracias
Mario Alegre puede q se haya roto la cuña del volante y se haya movido esto hace q mande la chispa adelantado o atrasado y no cierran o abren las valvulas en en momento exacto
5-7 in. valve
9-11 ex. valve
Both set at 10 is fine.
Briggs and stattons exhaust valve opens alittle on the compression stroke.
That is the compression release, correct? I had thought that most of these older inexpensive engines had a fixed compression release feature on the cam.
Two hours? You've got to be kidding - you've apparently never read a user manual. And you are incorrect: Air cooled engines should use synthetic especially if you are in a cold climate like me where you often have to use the mower in near freezing temps. 10w-30 synth needs fewer viscosity improvers than normal 10w-30 and is more like standard 30 weight in high temp performance. Straight 30 weight is a very poor idea unless you live is a warm climate.
3 long bolts go around the ex valve corner
you should had lapped them and cleaned them
The inlet valve clearance is 0.15mm & the exhaust valve clearance is 0.25mm on the 3.5 HP underhead valve engines,the valves have to be removed & the end of the valve stems need to be reground so the valve heads won't overheat & burn out.
The cylinder head bolt torque is 16 newton meters.
I have to lap the valves in mine because it has a bit of a misfire at idle speed,it spits back through the muffler because the valves leak a bit.
I did a wet leak test after pulling the cylinder heads off,you can see the wetness around each valve :-
m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=692636007592735&id=100005390262695&set=a.692635830926086.1073741846.100005390262695&source=56&ref=bookmarks
m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=692636034259399&id=100005390262695&set=a.692635830926086.1073741846.100005390262695&source=56&ref=bookmarks
omg bart simpson
you should change oil either once a year or every two hours of use. do not use syenthetic oil on a air cooled engine big no no. Use thirty weight oil. Warm the engine before changing oil that will get rid of particles from the engine. Dont use a impact that can damage those engines use a regular socket and wrenches. Those engines when runing good have about 120 to 125 pounds of compression. Move the flywheel counter clock wise if it has a tight sharp rebound you got good compression.
Why not use synthetic? We race with it all the time and there is literally no wear
how long did it last ?
Still mowing my lawn with it this season.
So you needed to pull the valves and grind the ends of the valve stems to create the .006 clearance gap.......
To bring it back to spec, yes. But the mower still works great today and I'm not going to worry about it.
sillyman171
There is no direct valve adjustment but you can remove them and grind the stems to shorten or weld and grind to lengthen. The camshaft can also get pitted and worn but that wouldn't cause loss of compression. Smoke on startup makes me think it may be simple ring/bore wear but you'd have to tear it down to verify that assumption.
sillyman171
Nice! Thanks for the update!
It would be better if you'd clean out that crud out, that grinding is awful
how long does it last for???
Still going. I didn't do a very good job of it as I didn't know the proper technique and didn't want to crack the seat, but it seems to be good enough. If done properly it will stay in for the life of the engine/seat/valve.
Thanks for your comment, I very much appreciate such support. I don't make any money from this and I make videos only as a hobby. Also, your assumptions on my profession are very astute. :)
those valves arent burnt bud there covered in carbon
1 and 1/4 quarts?
Not sure what I said in the video but if you're talking oil that sounds like too much. It does require the better part of a quart when I change it though so more than a modern GCV honda or the like.
Is your lawn mower still running?
Yup. Still runs great, but the self propelled drive mechanism is now wearing out. I have a bearing on order that I hope will extend the life a little more. Sure, I could always just push it but apparently I'm too lazy to do that. :)
Do you still own that ariens?
Yes. Used it just this week to mow my lawn.
@@knurlgnar24 where do you find parts for you ariens, I'm a landscaper I have an ariens but its discontinued, it's an Ariens Classic LM 21 SW
On line
There's no reason to clean the carbon - it's been running 20 years like that just fine and will have carbon after a few uses again. The valves seal well and aren't burnt so there's no reason to lap them, and Briggs and Straton themselves recommends reusing the head gasket on flatheads when reassembling. Good Lord man, your practical knowledge is severely lacking.
it is not called peening. no. for mechanics, it is called staking. like you would stake a goat out with a rope tied to a pin driven in the ground. the pin is called a stake. thus staking
Starting fluid in a small engine is a 'no no'. Use raw gas or carb cleaner instead.
That is an often repeated myth. Starting fluid is perfectly safe to use in small engines.
I have heard this for years then found this Googling, "I have seen spark plugs blown right out of the head, mufflers blown off and even carbs blown out. Starting fluid has way too much kick for a small engine" Why take a chance? You already have gas and I'm sure you have carb cleaner. Liked your video and thought process and patience anyway. Cheers
Tajga 245 lancfures
25 spek
lapping them would help
inch pounds
.004 mm
First of all you don't use a 5W-30 oil in a small engine. These engines take a straight 30W oil, nothing else unless you are trying to destroy the engine. That is also not the way to fix a frozen valve and seat.
And u were dropped on your head
@@donaldbixby3692 Your an idiot to, I have been working on thesee engines for over 20 years and i am an oil dealer as well, Moron.