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I was thinking about buying one a year ago, but never did. The one I was looking at was around $200. When I get a chance I'll see if I can find it again and link it.
@@TrickShiftGarage I have kinda looked, and people are saying to get the one that screws on at the top. Because it's a closed system, it just didn't include the line markings. I'm planning on getting one and an aftermarket pan with the drain plug.
Recently decided to do this myself on my 2014 F-150 with the 5.0. This vid was most helpful. Not gonna lie this took me a LONG time to complete. Way more than I anticipated, but it gave me a great sense of accomplishment doing it myself. I am slowly trying to become my own mechanic for as many things as possible to avoid the shops.
Hey thanks Robby, we are glad it helped! Doing maintenance yourself can save you a ton of money, which is especially important right now because of inflation. Thanks for watching and let us know if there is anything else you need help with! 🤟
Your first transmission pan drop is going to take a long time. My first was on my 04 Ram 1500 with the 545RFE transmission. Took me like 3 or 4 hours the first time. Was like 30 minutes each time afterward. Great job on learning to do your own maintenance!
Use pump fluid extractor from harbor freight to suck out most of fluid with the narrow flexible hose it comes with, this prevents leakage/spillage when dropping the pan, once pan is off suck remaining fluid in pan. The extractor has level indicator so you know exactly how much is removed and replace with new fluid. Use a 2 gallon bug sprayer from walmart or wherever and fill with correct amount of fluid, cut the plastic tip off wand. I bought a 2 foot cheap air wand at harbor freight and put it in vice, used a mapp torch to heat and bend it into a hook and I attached it to bug sprayer, it stays hooked into hole for ez refill.
Any time I do a transmission job and it does not have a drain plug I just drill a 3/8 hole in lowest part of pan to drain. Saves big on mess, then I tack weld a nut inside and install a drain plug.
would you happen to know how to change the output shaft speed sensor my truck throws a wrench light and doesn’t wanna go below 3rd or shift above 5th i can barely find any videos on it
Couple of comments for anyone. One who wants to do their own transmission service, he used paper towels to wipe the pan out and the filter connection which isn't bad. But when after you clean the pan ideally you should use compressed air, but above all, be sure not to use rags because they deposit lint on the surfaces of things. You can't really see it but it does and that will eventually wash and get up into the filter. In addition, many of the Ford products and other manufacturers have reusable gaskets. They're usually rubber with ribs on them and they'll have metal washers embedded in them around the bolts to stop the bolt at a certain point, so never throw those away. They're reusable. Oftentimes the filter kit will give you some cheap gasket that's not designed to work the way the original one is
Real nice video. Lots of good camera shots. Ford really did a disservice to its customers by not having a traditional under the hood dipstick to check the fluid level. There are after market dip stick kits, but they are over $200! In one service manual, I read that the fluid level should be checked when the transmission is at normal operating temperature while running. That becomes a a hell of a task to not burn yourself on the cat converter. I think what you did was fine, If the level is at the bottom of A while cold, it should expand to the B mark when its hot.
Thank you I really appreciate the kind words! And I totally agree. A dipstick may cost them less than $1 to put in all of these trucks. I know I would gladly pay an extra dollar to have one. I think I may eventually buy the aftermarket dipstick, but I'm also having a hard time throwing $200 at it right now. Especially for something that should already be on the vehicle from the factory. Thanks for watching, we really appreciate it!
@@TrickShiftGarage Yes, this transmission requires a sealed and locking dipstick because the transmission operates under vacuum. The after market dipstick assembly cost in Canada is closer to $300, which is ridiculous. I'm sure Ford could have provided it for $20 bucks.
I just recently brought a 2012 f150 xlt I checked my transmission fluid and it’s a little low right under the A mark and is brown like motor oil doesn’t smell burnt tho and doesn’t really shift bad also my truck is under warranty so I’m probably gonna just change the transmission oil. I heard that mercon vl turns that color under very little miles is that true ? I’m change the fluid and filter myself .. you think I should by my truck having 157 thousand miles ? it’s probably the original fluid . also we’re did you get that pan with a drain plug I want to install one on my truck … thanks and nice video I’m like and sub
Pretty much all transmission fluids change from red to a brown after driving around for thousands of miles. I don't think you have anything to worry about. The transmission pan is in the description of the video titled "Dorman Transmission Pan". That's where I bought mine. Also, make sure you read the description of the video. I have updated the correct way to fill these transmissions. Let me know if you have any questions! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGaragethanks bro … no shop would change the fluid by my truck having so many miles lol so I’m do it myself… I hear that just changing the fluid and not flushing it won’t harm anything but that’s mostly true for older transmissions , correct ? doesn’t seem as hard as my gmc sierra the exhaust pipe runs right under the pan I seen videos we’re you take the exhaust off much easier to get a pry bar and wiggle the pan pass the exhaust…
You can do it! And yes it's easier than a lot of other GM vehicles because of the exhaust. Dropping the pan and changing the fluid and filter should be just fine. If you want, you can always change it again within 20k miles to help get more of the old fluid out of there. And if you get the Dorman drain pan, you can just drain and fill. The filter needs to be changed every 60k miles though, so keep that in mind.
As soon as you mentioned trick shift at the beginning because I'm new to this channel it reminded me of my moroso transmission fluid that I used in my turbo hydramatic 400 back in the late seventies and it was brutal and could handle 690 horsepower naturally aspirated at the time...
That's amazing! I found out about that transmission fluid when googling our channel. Definitely an awesome transmission fluid to use in those 400's! Thanks for watching Wayne! 🤟
Hello! I used a new gasket, however that's not necessary. Ford says the gasket is reusable, so you can save some money and keep yours. I have the pump linked in the description if you are interested. Also, make sure you read the first part of the description. I updated the correct filling procedure there. I will be coming out with another video going into more detail at some point in the next month or 2. Thanks for watching! 🙏
@@TrickShiftGarage Thanks for the quick reply. I've been considering going to the dealer for all fluids but a lot of this seems doable in my driveway. Thanks for the tutorials!!!
It took me a few hours to change mine because I'm just slow. I thought I only needed four quarts but I ended up using seven. The truck was leveled and the engine was running when I was checking it and since I didn't drain seven quarts, I'm guessing my tranny was slipping because the fluid was low? And that aluminum foil trick was ingenious. I spilled more fluid refilling it than removing the pan thanks to the foil.
@@TrickShiftGarage oh ok I didn't see the drain plug. Aluminum pans usually are deeper and hold more fluid. And can dissipate heat more if towing a lot. And most have drain plugs as well. Otherwise just another expense. 😆
do you know if you have a black fluiđ you ne,ed to flush the line. the red fluid you don't ne.ed to flush other why when you put the new fluid in the mix red fluid black and red together
You don't need to flush the line. A simple pan drop and fluid change is fine. These transmissions are extremely durable, so I wouldn't worry about doing a transmission flush if you can't make it to a shop.
I believe the truck had around 80,000 miles. 215k is a lot to do this for the first time. Are you sure it's never been done before? One thing you can do, pull out the dipstick and smell the fluid. If it smells really burnt and it is black in color, you will have to decide what to do. If it's pink and doesn't smell that bad, then you should be fine to change it. Let me know how it goes!
Well, I'll tell you this: a lot of older mechanics say to leave transmission fluid alone if it's never been changed. But a lot of newer mechanics have stated that it's fine to drop the pan and do a refill, but avoid a flush! I know this doesn't really answer your question, but it really depends on what you want to do. Like I said, go ahead and pull that dipstick out and check it. That may tell you what you should do.
Hello Marathoner43! No, I did not use a gasket sealer. I did buy a new gasket for the pan, but supposedly the gaskets are reusable. As far as the bolt pattern, I just tried to go back and forth on opposite sides to ensure a snug fit.
Okay let me help you guys out.... After you add 4 to 5 course of oil turn your freaking engine on and then continue to fill as it's running.... If you turn it off it'll spill out... But as it's running fill until it starts to spill out. Once it does now you have the proper level.... But do not turn off the engine while you have this cap otherwise it'll just come pouring out
Excellent video and right to the point. Checking this under the vehicle? Checking it well running? Checking it next to 'hot' exhaust components? Unbelievable a so called 'engineer' would design anything this bad and even worse for Ford to manufacture it.
fyi you can cold-fill/check with it just slightly warm...fluid should just barely hit the crosshatch area. At operating temp, fluid expansion should put it 3/4 or more of the way into the crosshatch, meaning it's good to go.
I came across this today....totally by chance. My 4x4 F150 is being serviced for this as we speak. I understand what the mechanics were talking about when I dropped it off yesterday. Thanks!
Sorry, that's wayyy beyond my knowledge of these vehicles lol. But when you find out please let us know. You could help someone else that needs to know too!
You know what, i got more confident in changing it myself instead of paying hundreds of dollars for someone to do it. Thank you for this useful video. Hello from Wichita Ks.
Helpful video of yours.. I just did the trans service on my 2013 ford f150 fx4 today. 6r80 trans. I have done a lot of trans services on my vehicles over the years but this was the first for this truck. Very easy as I mentioned. Drove the truck to get the trans to 165 degrees. Lowered the pan and drained the oil. The filter came down with the pan as was expected. Cleaned the pan and magnet and wiped down the socket inside the trans where the filter fits in. This helps keep the new filter in place as you lift the clean pan with the reused Motorcraft gasket in place.. Put five qts of Mercon LV in and started the truck and shifted through the gears. Left it running and Checked the dipstick level. ( short dipstick alongside trans on the passenger side) and it was low at 145 degrees. Added another 2 qts and it is now almost up the B hashmark ( which is the full mark at 180 degrees operating temp) , again check the oil level while it is running in Park.. Going forward I will check the trans oil every time I do an oil change. By the way, I used a 3 foot flexible hose ( from a dishwasher discharge) and funnel to add the trans oil. Much easier than pumping the oil from underneath the truck..
Was there enough gravity from a funnel to feed into the tube into the trans? I'm about to do this service - I am not looking forward to filling this thing lol
Just did this job on my 14 f150 2 weekends ago. Take dipstick out. Use a fluid extractor, put hose in fill port and suck the fluid out first! So much easier
Dude, if not for you and your video, I wouldn’t have known about that Dorman pan with the drain plug. We just bought a 14 Navigator that I planned on swapping all fluids out to baseline the maintenance on it. The 3X pan drop and refill transmission service will be SO much easier after dropping the OEM pan (and changing the filter of course) for the 2 subsequent drain and fills. As for the video itself, I really appreciated your positive vibe and enthusiasm. It makes for an easier to watch video. Great work! Subscribed!
@@TrickShiftGarage Hey brother, just completed the pan drop, filter change, and new pan and gasket installed. Filled it with a gallon of Valvoline maxlife followed by just shy of 2 quarts of AMSOIL Fuel Efficient (their version of low viscosity) ATF. Even though it’s only the first volley of fluid changes on this transmission, it already shifts a lot more precisely…and ironically the ‘Gator coasts easier, lol. At 140k miles, the fluid in that pan was NASTY! No big metal flakes, just that fine mush stuck on the magnet though. I’ve got just shy of 22 quarts of the AMSOIL ATF on the shelf. Going to do a drain and refill each time I fill up with the next 2 tanks of gas, then once more when I’m due for an oil change. Couldn’t have done it without your video!
I bought a 2012 Navigator a year ago and a Ford dealer was able to confirm from the V.I.N. number, that the previous owner had serviced and changed transmission fluid at the $30K mile mark, as required by warranty. I'm at the 92K miles mark now and ready to do a drain & fill very soon to confirm a maintenance baseline. I'm definitely going to buy the Dorman pan with the drain plug to make future changes easier.
Got parts on the way, you made it look easy. Hoping it goes that way for me. Other videos show where 4 qts, 41/2 qts Then checking it and they are always putting more in. That had me confused, I am going to use your method, makes sense to me. I have a 2010 Ford f150 flex. With 150000 on it and just had the engine swapped, and was told I need to have my tranny serviced. Priced it and OMG expensive. I figured at that price I can get the parts, fluid, and tools for less and do it myself. My hard time is on the fluid level getting it right the first time.
So, you will need to keep filling when the transmission gets warm. I added that part to the description of the video because I didn't realize it needed to be done. You will be able to fit another quart or 2 in the transmission with it running while the fluid is warm. Let me know how it goes! 🙏
This does not remove all the fluid, only about half. If you want to, you can do another fluid change about 10,000 miles after the first one and that should help get mostly new fluid in your transmission. Hope this helps! 🙏
Why in the HELLLLL….isn’t there an actual drain plug in the bottom / low point of the engine? Is there an after market trans oil pan with a drain plug ? Or is there a really “ craftsman quality correct mod… to add a drain plug? If changing your trans oil ( early) is the best thing you can do to increase reliability and longevity…. Then MAKING IT EASIER…TOOOOOOO…. CHANGE THE FLUID kind of makes sense ?
My wife knows that when I get a new ( used) truck… the FIRST THING I do .. I clean and Pressure wash everything….the Second THING I DO IS PB blaster everything… then I use a garden sprayer and spray/ coat every bit of the frame and all under body sheet metal with a couple coats of Rustoleum rusty metal primer…including way up in the wheel wells and the dog legs…. Then I start fixing the bullshit design flaws….like the mod where you can go into four wheel low but NOT connect the front axle ..so you have a granny low and then manual front axle connect from inside the truck…That tranny oil pan is totally going on the list. My CURRENT truck is a 2003 F150 4.6 4x4 MANUAL Trans…. It’s been a GREAT…GREAT… truck… but it’s time…. If they still made THAT truck…I’d get another… but as a second family vehicle it’s a little too tough for my wife …but she is excellent with minimizing clutch flare…. 130,000 miles original clutch… its not slipping but it does engage pretty high so we’re getting within 10,000 of a replacement… damn.. That truck is gonna be loved on the other side of the rainbow bridge @@TrickShiftGarage
That's awesome man! You take care of your truck, and it will take care of you. Ford will frustrate us with some of their boneheaded decisions, but their engines and transmissions last in their trucks. Especially from 2011 and up with the Coyote motor and 6R-80 trans. It's pretty common for people to get well beyond 300k miles. The only thing I need is an exhaust to let that motor breath a little more. 😎
The new Toyota “e -cvt”… in their hybrids has TWO electric DRIVE motors INSIDE the Transaxle…. INSIDE THE TRANNY…..One is dedicated to turn/ start the gas engine…( the starter motor)… and the other is the “ tractor” electric motor that propels the car in “ electric mode”…. BUT BOTH OF THESE MOTORS ARE….INSIDE….THE TRANSMISSION…. if they are brushless and a/c electric motors….and they are built with Krptonite……ok… Then “ MAYBE” their life span is 200,000 miles and/ 20 years..?….. but we all know starter motors can fail at 125k, 100k, even 75,000 miles….. if EITHER of those motors fails at 80,000 AND THE TRANS HAS TO BE DISASSEMBLED to replace a damn STARTER MOTOR……$ 4000 for a starter motor...!,!!!!! …hell no… and I believe that the newer Fords use a similar E-cvt …. Does anybody have any real knowledge on these concerns..? How long those motors are expected to REALLY endure ? Thx @@TrickShiftGarage
Hey man I'm sorry to hear that. I feel very blessed my father taught me everything he did, and I hope that's the case for everyone. But sadly I know it's not. FYI, look at the description of the video if you haven't yet. I lay out the correct filling procedure for these transmissions. Thanks for watching brother. 🤟
It's not that simple. You need to drop the pan, replace the filter and then begin refilling. Once it's full, you then need to start your engine and let the transmission get up to operating temperature (this will take awhile in the cold weather). Then, you can add another quart or 2. That's technically the proper way to fill these transmissions.
Excellent video! Right down to the pan bolts torque specs!! As long as the trans fluid is warm and circulated by going through the gear patterns, Does the engine need to be running or just observe the A and B marks on the dip stick? Thanks for sharing!! Thanks for the Links you provided too!!! Appreciate that very much.
Hello! Yes, the engine needs to be running and you need to watch your transmission temp gauge. Once it gets up to operating temperature (this will take longer than the engine reaching normal operating temp), then you can continue to fill. The dipstick is odd. I'm not sure why there is an A or a B, but from what I've read you are better off filling it up to the top line. Once you get there, put the dipstick and cap back on, fasten it, and then you can shut the engine off. Don't shut the engine off while the dipstick and cap are off as this will cause fluid to leak out.
The one I bought was from Dorman. I have a link to it in the description if you want to check it out. If it doesn't work, please let me know and I'll try to provide a different link.
@TrickShiftGarage ok so this may be a dumb question, but was the plastic dipstick you checked atf level with there at the end contained inside the filler bolt you removed or was it an additional purchase one needs to check fluid level?
There is no such thing as a dumb question! And yes it was inside of the bolt. This is Fords cheap method of giving us a dipstick lol. I miss the days where a transmission dipstick was located under the hood.
Hello Tabcobra! So this has been a topic of discussion on these videos lately. Supposedly, in order to get an accurate reading, you need to: Fill the pan until it is full. Start your engine and get the transmission up to 200+ degrees. Check the dipstick level and fill as needed. However, I personally believe this is overkill. I watched a video from Fordtechmakuloko (spell check) and he acknowledged that you do not have to wait until the trans fluid is warm or hot. He said just get the fluid up just under where it's supposed to be on the dipstick. Since the fluid expands, it will rise to the appropriate level when it's hot. This is essentially what I did when changing my fluid. A lot of people disagree with this method, however I will stick to this method for the life of the vehicle and post videos with updates on the status of the tranny. I plan on changing it every 60k miles and will make sure to include that in those videos as well. Sorry for the length of this, but I wanted to make sure I gave you every piece of information without misleading you or anyone else. Thanks for watching ! 🤟
No problem. And yes, that is correct. I will provide updates each time I change the fluid and if there are any issues. I think my transmission will be just fine though.
Yes, and also while the truck is running. You need the fluid to get up to operating temperature to get an accurate reading. Typically, you let it run for 10-15 minutes and then check. Just be careful, the catalytic converter is right there. So get yourself some heat resistant gloves.
@@TrickShiftGarage ok 👌 yeah I already got myself a few times 😂. I may have a bad seal I added fluid because my digital gauge was showing 204 temp and never has been that high. I filled and then noticed my gauge slowly went back to 200 while driving the next day. I figured I didn’t tighten the plug enough so I refilled and check again today but I did notice liquid around the back part of the pans seal.
Make sure you also check the lines that run up to your transmission cooler. Those are known to fail and if they do, there is a good chance it will destroy your transmission.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes! Also, make sure you look at the description of this video. I have information on how to properly fill these transmissions.
Thank you for your video…I followed step by step and yes… when I check the level engine off it was on the mark but with the engine ON and warm I add 2 litters more !!!! did I do it wright ?
I bought 2012 f150 xlt with 167K I don’t think the transmission has been serviced. Do you think I should do what you did with dropping the pan and changing the fluid and filter? Or don’t mess with it?
Hello Cesar, so I can't tell you what you should do in this situation. However, if I purchased a truck with 167k miles, I would check the dipstick and see if the fluid is black and smells burnt. If it does, then I would consult a Ford tech and ask for their opinion. These transmissions are really durable, and will reward you for changing the fluid. But at 167k miles, it's hard to recommend changing it or leaving it alone because the affect of either or will vary per truck. I wish I could give you a more in depth answer, but I would hate to give you bad advice and possibly ruin your transmission. Whatever you decide, make sure you keep us updated!
Can you just use a Syphon pump to draw this out and then simply replace through the dipstick tube the same amount that you removed? I’ve done that on another transmission a few times and it was super easy to do
I'm sure you haven't had problems before. But it's best to check fluid when the vehicle(any vehicle) is level. Your fluid level is going to be a hair off
Great video, incredibly helpful. Question for you guys. I have a 2013 f150 v8 5.0L. I put the front wheels on ramps, drained the pan (foil idea was clutch), cleaned it, replaced filter, put the pan back, and then pumped just shy of 6 quarts into the transmission until it started to overflow (still up on ramps). Took it off the ramps, let id idle for 15 mins, cool for 5, then checked fluid level. Why would it still be showing low? It's not even reaching the "B". I know the obvious thing is to add more fluid, but I really don't want to risk overfilling and dealing with that issue.
Definitely add more fluid. And many people have informed me you need to check and top off the fluid while the engine is running (and the transmission fluid needs to be warm). You will need heat resistant gloves as the plug is right next to the catalytic converter. Don't worry about overfilling, it's almost impossible to do that since there isn't a dipstick under the hood (it's built into the plug).
Guys I need help. 2012 Ford F-150 xlt with this tranny. The first 4 bolts, closest to the engine, I cannot get out for the life of me. The angle is horrible with that exhaust pipe in the way. I used the 8mm socket with multiple extensions and on my 1/4 and 3/8 drive. Can’t get it to sit flush, it feels like I’m stripping it because of the angle. Please help me with any Advice. Now I’m out of a vehicle
@@TrickShiftGarage I literally tried everything, I had to cut the exhaust pipe right out to get to them, about a foots worth. Boom, blots came right off now. I even tried heating them up and put pb blaster on them, nothing,,,, So now ill just clamp the exhasut piece back on, what a headache!
I bought a new gasket, even though Ford says you can reuse the old one. I bought a new filter because you need to change the filter when you change the fluid (around every 60k miles). And I changed the pan to make draining the fluid easier in the future.
and done thanks mate 😎🤙 did it with an automatic ATF pump all 7q in less then a min went threw the gears turned it off re checked the dip stick and water pressure the undercarriage so nothing catches fire while i left it idling for 30 minutes turned it off for an hour then drove home for 1 hour everything went smoothly i was just wishing bought that same pan you got would of man life easier the next time i do the fluid change but what ever the point is that its taken care of ✌️
You’re changing the oil in the pan but don’t change anything in the converter which is a good portion of the oil. That’s really only half the job because now you have dirty oil mixed with the fresh oil. Just saying that is half the job. That’s why the transmission shop is the best option. It costs more but they can flush out all of the oil.
Yup! But flushes have also been known to cause damage to these newer transmissions. You can definitely go to a dealer, but I'm going to stick with what's worked for me for a long time.
@@TrickShiftGarage How does flushing hurt the transmission? I have never had one flushed but I have a F 150 that needs service and am debating the best option for service. I want the filter changed and the oil completely replaced so I guess I’ll go get it flushed and hope that doesn’t damage anything.
Thanks for the video, had some big repairs between my 2017 F150 and my wife's 2013 Explorer that I actually had to take to a shop since it was out of my scope. Glad to see this this one is fairly easy. I have around 75K on the F150 and tow fairly light loads with it constantly and wanted to get this done in the next couple of months. Then it will be onto the Explorer which doesn't look fun with the transfer case sine I have the awd model.
Yea this isn't too bad. I'll be doing an updated video for the transmission fluid, this time showing exactly how to fill it and how to tell when it's perfectly filled. Make sure you look in the description of this video as I have updated information in there. Let me know if you have any questions!
I have 98K miles on my 2015 f150. I was going to change it. But I wonder should i "change" it or have it flushed? I hear different opinions on the flush
Hello Pete! Personally, I don't think I would ever flush. I've never had a transmission fail by just dropping the pan. I have heard people say they ruined a transmission shortly after flushing though. But that's just my opinion. Do whatever you feel is best for your truck!
Thank you for the overall one of the best to date on my end an overall amazing video, definitely have my sharing support. Quick question where can I find what you used to pump the new Trans fluid back into pan?
i noticed you replaced the oem pan with an after market with a drain plug. That makes life alot easier. Why didnt ford make it to where trans changes were as easy as oil changes?
Definitely makes it easier. Personally, I think Ford (as well as some other automakers) do this to discourage owners from doing the maintenance on their vehicles. They want people to go to the dealer. And honestly, it works for the most part. Most people don't want to spend the extra time doing it themselves, so they just take it to the dealer. But you can save a boatload of money by doing it yourself. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment Khoa! We appreciate it! 🤟
great video definitely took a couple notes the newer the vehicle the more work it seems makes me miss the 1986 5.0 "ghost" might have to get another one
Yea it's definitely different. Also, make sure you check the description. There is more information there on how to properly fill these transmissions (if you haven't already). Thanks for watching and let me know how it goes when you do yours! 🤟
If you pop off a trans cooler line in the front under the radiator, you can pump out the remaining 8 quarts of old fluid by starting the truck and cycling the shift selector. Just keep topping off the transmission as you go so it does not suck dry. When it comes out bright red, you’re done.
I've been really thinking about doing a video on how to do that, but I need to do some more research. Do you know where I can find a write-up of this procedure?
Hello Chuck, I'm not quite sure to be 100% honest. Some people say to change it anyway, other people say to leave it alone. I will say this, if it was my truck I would change it because I don't feel like 137,000 miles is too much. If the truck had over 200,000 miles, then that would be a different story. But that's just my opinion.
If the transmission doesn't work after you are done, then it was already broken to begin with. Changing the fluid the proper way will not ruin your transmission. You can do this! Let us know who it goes! 🤟
Thank you for the overall one of the best to date on my end an overall amazing video, definitely have my sharing support. Quick question where can I find what you used to pump the new Trans fluid back into pan?
So pretty much just fill it till it comes out and after it starts and shifts through the gears it should level out haha I’m gonna do mine soon. Everywhere I’ve called to have this service done it’s well over 300 dollars
Hello Kevin! Yes, that's pretty much it! The main thing is making sure the fluid warms up and travels through the gears. Just make sure you don't burn yourself! The catalytic converter is right next to it, so grab some gloves when you check it again. Good luck and thanks for watching! 🤟
Are the pan bolts sae or metric? I want to order that ratchet set for this. Did you replace the pan in order to have one with a drain plug for easier removal for Faust fluid changes without filter replacement?
I believe the bolts were metric (if I'm remembering correctly). And yes, I bought that pan so I could easily drain the fluid before removing, but I still plan on changing the filter too. I think I'm going to change the fluid every 30k miles, and then the filter every 60k miles.
Having a hard time getting the filter and pan to match up good enough to pop the pan in flush....Any tips on this ? Or am I the only one having this issue? Been messing with just this part for hours and can't figure It out.
And now I finally thought I had it, bolted it all up and decided to see if anything would drain after 3 quarts of fluid and nothing cones out....I looked up in the plug since nothing was coming out and saw the paperish filter from inside the new transmission filter....is this suppose to be lined up like that? So confused
I saw another video where you have to replace the transmission auxiliary pump inlet tube seal after pulling off the filter. Now that I’ve seen a few other videos I don’t see this same seal on the transmission. Have you ever heard of this seal? I can’t find it in the fords part site either.
Hello Roy, I believe that's for the vehicles equipped with the start stop feature. Some Fords use an auxiliary pump to keep transmission fluid pressure up so when you release the brake pedal and the engine turns back over, you have fluid moving through your transmission immediately. This can help prevent unnecessary wear and tear from the start stop feature. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Well I just tried this. I broke 5 of the 6 8MM bolts before I realized they were breaking off, instead of unscrewing. The seal between the pan and transmissions is probably still good, but I wouldn't trust it to drive very far.
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm not sure which bolts you broke, but some of them you can access above. Try to grab a pair of locking pliers and clamp down on them and then turn. That should help you get some of them out.
@@TrickShiftGarage The bolts are the first 6 bolts your video says to remove...the ones in the back. It wouldn't do me any good to remove the broken ones if I don't have anything to replace them with.
@@panderson9561autozone would have bolts to replace them with. Take a bolt off & go up there & there should be a bolts section on the end of an aisle. Put the bolt in whichever hole it fits, it’ll tell you which bolts to buy. For the broken bolts, buy an extractor
No issues so far, but I've only driven about 10k miles since installing. In a couple of months I'm going to do another fluid change (because my old fluid had a very strong burnt smell) and will use the drain plug. After having the pan installed for a year, I'll do another video on it basically reviewing it and describing any issues I may have had.
Hello Ron! I have no feedback just yet other than it's not leaking. I plan on changing the fluid again sometime next year, and will provide an update video on it. So far, so good though.
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What do you think about an aftermarket dip stick and tube?
I was thinking about buying one a year ago, but never did. The one I was looking at was around $200. When I get a chance I'll see if I can find it again and link it.
@@TrickShiftGarage I have kinda looked, and people are saying to get the one that screws on at the top. Because it's a closed system, it just didn't include the line markings. I'm planning on getting one and an aftermarket pan with the drain plug.
Interesting. I didn't know about that. Either way let me know how it goes! I would like to hear about it when you do.
Recently decided to do this myself on my 2014 F-150 with the 5.0. This vid was most helpful. Not gonna lie this took me a LONG time to complete. Way more than I anticipated, but it gave me a great sense of accomplishment doing it myself. I am slowly trying to become my own mechanic for as many things as possible to avoid the shops.
Hey thanks Robby, we are glad it helped! Doing maintenance yourself can save you a ton of money, which is especially important right now because of inflation. Thanks for watching and let us know if there is anything else you need help with! 🤟
Your first transmission pan drop is going to take a long time. My first was on my 04 Ram 1500 with the 545RFE transmission. Took me like 3 or 4 hours the first time. Was like 30 minutes each time afterward. Great job on learning to do your own maintenance!
My shop wanted $600 to do this. I think I can find time for that!
You can do it!
Why couldn’t the dipstick be under the hood? Smh Thank you Ford 😡
I couldn't agree more Dazmon! The dipstick and coil covers should have both came with these trucks from the factory. Ford can be irritating at times.
I though I was going crazy until I serched it up
Ford makes some boneheaded decisions. This was one of them.
Saved the cheapskates 37 cents
David you are correct! Ford needed that extra money for...whatever lol. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Use pump fluid extractor from harbor freight to suck out most of fluid with the narrow flexible hose it comes with, this prevents leakage/spillage when dropping the pan, once pan is off suck remaining fluid in pan. The extractor has level indicator so you know exactly how much is removed and replace with new fluid. Use a 2 gallon bug sprayer from walmart or wherever and fill with correct amount of fluid, cut the plastic tip off wand. I bought a 2 foot cheap air wand at harbor freight and put it in vice, used a mapp torch to heat and bend it into a hook and I attached it to bug sprayer, it stays hooked into hole for ez refill.
Great advice! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! Hopefully it helps someone! 🙏
Adding to my tools list thanks m8 doing this next weekend
Any time I do a transmission job and it does not have a drain plug I just drill a 3/8 hole in lowest part of pan to drain. Saves big on mess, then I tack weld a nut inside and install a drain plug.
That's another way to do it lol. Having a drain plug is so convenient on transmission pans. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Just siphon off the fluid from the dipstick/fill hole! No foil needed, just a few feet of 3/8 tubing
That works too!
Trucks and cars are built for garages to fix not people who buy them today.
They definitely don't make it easy for us DIY'ers! 😫
would you happen to know how to change the output shaft speed sensor my truck throws a wrench light and doesn’t wanna go below 3rd or shift above 5th i can barely find any videos on it
Unfortunately no I do not. Someone else mentioned it awhile ago and I've searched for it but I have no idea how to fix it. Sorry brother.
I do a full.swap out by dropping the return line and flushing the entire system.
Nice
As per my knowledge to check oil leavel car must be about 51f correct me if im wrong
I believe the temperature has to be between 193 and 215 degrees Fahrenheit.
Doesn’t the truck have to be running to check the fluid accurately?🤔
Yes it does. I have the correct fill procedure in the description of this video.
Wait arnt you supposed to check the fluid when in idle?
Yep! It's updated in the description.
Couple of comments for anyone. One who wants to do their own transmission service, he used paper towels to wipe the pan out and the filter connection which isn't bad. But when after you clean the pan ideally you should use compressed air, but above all, be sure not to use rags because they deposit lint on the surfaces of things. You can't really see it but it does and that will eventually wash and get up into the filter. In addition, many of the Ford products and other manufacturers have reusable gaskets. They're usually rubber with ribs on them and they'll have metal washers embedded in them around the bolts to stop the bolt at a certain point, so never throw those away. They're reusable. Oftentimes the filter kit will give you some cheap gasket that's not designed to work the way the original one is
The truck has to be running up to temperature to properly check your fluid level
Yep! It's been added to the description of the video.
Does your dorman oil pan leak from the drain plug?
Nope, no issues because the plug comes with a crush washer.
Real nice video. Lots of good camera shots. Ford really did a disservice to its customers by not having a traditional under the hood dipstick to check the fluid level. There are after market dip stick kits, but they are over $200! In one service manual, I read that the fluid level should be checked when the transmission is at normal operating temperature while running. That becomes a a hell of a task to not burn yourself on the cat converter. I think what you did was fine, If the level is at the bottom of A while cold, it should expand to the B mark when its hot.
Thank you I really appreciate the kind words! And I totally agree. A dipstick may cost them less than $1 to put in all of these trucks. I know I would gladly pay an extra dollar to have one.
I think I may eventually buy the aftermarket dipstick, but I'm also having a hard time throwing $200 at it right now. Especially for something that should already be on the vehicle from the factory.
Thanks for watching, we really appreciate it!
@@TrickShiftGarage Yes, this transmission requires a sealed and locking dipstick because the transmission operates under vacuum. The after market dipstick assembly cost in Canada is closer to $300, which is ridiculous. I'm sure Ford could have provided it for $20 bucks.
Gotta love ford engineers. Not!!! 😅😅😅
🤣 too true!
Newbie on cars. Newbie subscriber. Thanks for teaching us what "dads" don't
I just recently brought a 2012 f150 xlt I checked my transmission fluid and it’s a little low right under the A mark and is brown like motor oil doesn’t smell burnt tho and doesn’t really shift bad also my truck is under warranty so I’m probably gonna just change the transmission oil. I heard that mercon vl turns that color under very little miles is that true ? I’m change the fluid and filter myself .. you think I should by my truck having 157 thousand miles ? it’s probably the original fluid . also we’re did you get that pan with a drain plug I want to install one on my truck … thanks and nice video I’m like and sub
Pretty much all transmission fluids change from red to a brown after driving around for thousands of miles. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
The transmission pan is in the description of the video titled "Dorman Transmission Pan". That's where I bought mine.
Also, make sure you read the description of the video. I have updated the correct way to fill these transmissions. Let me know if you have any questions! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGaragethanks bro … no shop would change the fluid by my truck having so many miles lol so I’m do it myself… I hear that just changing the fluid and not flushing it won’t harm anything but that’s mostly true for older transmissions , correct ? doesn’t seem as hard as my gmc sierra the exhaust pipe runs right under the pan I seen videos we’re you take the exhaust off much easier to get a pry bar and wiggle the pan pass the exhaust…
You can do it! And yes it's easier than a lot of other GM vehicles because of the exhaust. Dropping the pan and changing the fluid and filter should be just fine. If you want, you can always change it again within 20k miles to help get more of the old fluid out of there. And if you get the Dorman drain pan, you can just drain and fill.
The filter needs to be changed every 60k miles though, so keep that in mind.
As soon as you mentioned trick shift at the beginning because I'm new to this channel it reminded me of my moroso transmission fluid that I used in my turbo hydramatic 400 back in the late seventies and it was brutal and could handle 690 horsepower naturally aspirated at the time...
That's amazing! I found out about that transmission fluid when googling our channel. Definitely an awesome transmission fluid to use in those 400's! Thanks for watching Wayne! 🤟
Do you use the original gasket or do you buy a new one? This is very helpful. Also, a link to that pump would be cool
Hello! I used a new gasket, however that's not necessary. Ford says the gasket is reusable, so you can save some money and keep yours.
I have the pump linked in the description if you are interested. Also, make sure you read the first part of the description. I updated the correct filling procedure there. I will be coming out with another video going into more detail at some point in the next month or 2.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
@@TrickShiftGarage Thanks for the quick reply. I've been considering going to the dealer for all fluids but a lot of this seems doable in my driveway. Thanks for the tutorials!!!
Absolutely! Let me know how it goes brother! 🤟
It took me a few hours to change mine because I'm just slow. I thought I only needed four quarts but I ended up using seven. The truck was leveled and the engine was running when I was checking it and since I didn't drain seven quarts, I'm guessing my tranny was slipping because the fluid was low? And that aluminum foil trick was ingenious. I spilled more fluid refilling it than removing the pan thanks to the foil.
That's great man I'm glad to hear that! And I'm glad you found the aluminum foil trick helpful! 🤟
Why did you do a new stock pan? I missed it i guess... Why not a aluminum finned pan?
I wanted a pan that had a drain plug.
What's the benefit to an aluminum finned pan?
@@TrickShiftGarage oh ok I didn't see the drain plug.
Aluminum pans usually are deeper and hold more fluid. And can dissipate heat more if towing a lot. And most have drain plugs as well. Otherwise just another expense. 😆
Lol I gotcha. These trucks have very a very good cooling system, so I wouldn't worry about it. It's why the 6R-80 lasts so long.
do you know if you have a black fluiđ you ne,ed to flush the line. the red fluid you don't ne.ed to flush other why when you put the new fluid in the mix red fluid black and red together
You don't need to flush the line. A simple pan drop and fluid change is fine. These transmissions are extremely durable, so I wouldn't worry about doing a transmission flush if you can't make it to a shop.
How many miles on the truck at that time I'm at 215k wanted to service it just not sure if it will do more harm then good ?
I believe the truck had around 80,000 miles. 215k is a lot to do this for the first time. Are you sure it's never been done before?
One thing you can do, pull out the dipstick and smell the fluid. If it smells really burnt and it is black in color, you will have to decide what to do. If it's pink and doesn't smell that bad, then you should be fine to change it. Let me know how it goes!
@@TrickShiftGarage not sure
Well, I'll tell you this: a lot of older mechanics say to leave transmission fluid alone if it's never been changed. But a lot of newer mechanics have stated that it's fine to drop the pan and do a refill, but avoid a flush! I know this doesn't really answer your question, but it really depends on what you want to do. Like I said, go ahead and pull that dipstick out and check it. That may tell you what you should do.
Did you use any kind of gasket sealer on the gasket? Also, is there a specific pattern the bolts should be tightened in?
Hello Marathoner43! No, I did not use a gasket sealer. I did buy a new gasket for the pan, but supposedly the gaskets are reusable.
As far as the bolt pattern, I just tried to go back and forth on opposite sides to ensure a snug fit.
Great video and slick trick using the foil 👍
Thanks for watching! 🤟
Okay let me help you guys out.... After you add 4 to 5 course of oil turn your freaking engine on and then continue to fill as it's running.... If you turn it off it'll spill out... But as it's running fill until it starts to spill out. Once it does now you have the proper level.... But do not turn off the engine while you have this cap otherwise it'll just come pouring out
Yep, that's in the description. And you need to get the fluid up to temp first before you start filling.
Excellent video and right to the point. Checking this under the vehicle? Checking it well running? Checking it next to 'hot' exhaust components? Unbelievable a so called 'engineer' would design anything this bad and even worse for Ford to manufacture it.
I couldn't have said it any better Lance. You are 100% on point with that comment. We appreciate you watching! 🙏
fyi you can cold-fill/check with it just slightly warm...fluid should just barely hit the crosshatch area. At operating temp, fluid expansion should put it 3/4 or more of the way into the crosshatch, meaning it's good to go.
Good video . Thanks you.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
I came across this today....totally by chance. My 4x4 F150 is being serviced for this as we speak. I understand what the mechanics were talking about when I dropped it off yesterday. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! 🤟
Where is the Output Shat speed Sensor on the transmission??
Sorry, that's wayyy beyond my knowledge of these vehicles lol. But when you find out please let us know. You could help someone else that needs to know too!
@@TrickShiftGarage Thanks Sir!
Any reason why you used a new pan?
I wanted a pan with a drain plug.
I did the same a few years ago, then added a dipstick for the trans
Yea, if I was keeping the truck I would do the same thing. Ford should have provided it from the factory.
I don't know why... but my 2010 F-150 4.6 engine have a transmission fluid dipstick under hood... I like it....
Ford likes you and hates me lol. Thanks for watching Pedro! 🤟
You know what, i got more confident in changing it myself instead of paying hundreds of dollars for someone to do it. Thank you for this useful video. Hello from Wichita Ks.
Anytime! Let us know how it goes! 🤟
Helpful video of yours.. I just did the trans service on my 2013 ford f150 fx4 today. 6r80 trans. I have done a lot of trans services on my vehicles over the years but this was the first for this truck. Very easy as I mentioned. Drove the truck to get the trans to 165 degrees. Lowered the pan and drained the oil. The filter came down with the pan as was expected. Cleaned the pan and magnet and wiped down the socket inside the trans where the filter fits in. This helps keep the new filter in place as you lift the clean pan with the reused Motorcraft gasket in place.. Put five qts of Mercon LV in and started the truck and shifted through the gears. Left it running and Checked the dipstick level. ( short dipstick alongside trans on the passenger side) and it was low at 145 degrees. Added another 2 qts and it is now almost up the B hashmark ( which is the full mark at 180 degrees operating temp) , again check the oil level while it is running in Park.. Going forward I will check the trans oil every time I do an oil change. By the way, I used a 3 foot flexible hose ( from a dishwasher discharge) and funnel to add the trans oil. Much easier than pumping the oil from underneath the truck..
David that's a great idea! After a couple of quarts, you get tired real quick lol. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Was there enough gravity from a funnel to feed into the tube into the trans? I'm about to do this service - I am not looking forward to filling this thing lol
@@TrickShiftGaragehow the trany works after that oil change brother
@andryjcisneros2334 mine has been working perfect. No issues.
@@TrickShiftGarage thank you sir
You spilled some still
Oh no! 😱
Just did this job on my 14 f150 2 weekends ago.
Take dipstick out.
Use a fluid extractor, put hose in fill port and suck the fluid out first!
So much easier
Great!
I have a 09 f 150 xl and it's has the dipstick under the hood.
Yea I think the 4.6L and 5.4L had them, but not the 5.0.
Thanks for watching! 🤟
I have the 4.6 and 6r80 in my 2009 and it has the fill plug on the tranny.
Thanks for doing it on the ground with a jack and not a lift. That's exactly how I have to do mine.
Anytime! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Why ..... no drain plug ????
No clue James. That should have come from the factory in my opinion. Thanks for watching! 🤟
What about gluing the gasket in place before returning the pan into place. That way the gasket doesn't move?.
No, definitely not. The gasket will fall into place when you get every bolt in. You never want to use glue on gaskets.
Dude, if not for you and your video, I wouldn’t have known about that Dorman pan with the drain plug. We just bought a 14 Navigator that I planned on swapping all fluids out to baseline the maintenance on it. The 3X pan drop and refill transmission service will be SO much easier after dropping the OEM pan (and changing the filter of course) for the 2 subsequent drain and fills.
As for the video itself, I really appreciated your positive vibe and enthusiasm. It makes for an easier to watch video. Great work! Subscribed!
Hey thanks Brandon w
I appreciate the kind words! I am glad the video helped! Thanks for watching!
@@TrickShiftGarage Hey brother, just completed the pan drop, filter change, and new pan and gasket installed. Filled it with a gallon of Valvoline maxlife followed by just shy of 2 quarts of AMSOIL Fuel Efficient (their version of low viscosity) ATF. Even though it’s only the first volley of fluid changes on this transmission, it already shifts a lot more precisely…and ironically the ‘Gator coasts easier, lol.
At 140k miles, the fluid in that pan was NASTY! No big metal flakes, just that fine mush stuck on the magnet though. I’ve got just shy of 22 quarts of the AMSOIL ATF on the shelf. Going to do a drain and refill each time I fill up with the next 2 tanks of gas, then once more when I’m due for an oil change.
Couldn’t have done it without your video!
That's a great idea Brandon! That should help prolong the life of it for sure. Glad to hear it helped! Thanks for watching! 🤟
I bought a 2012 Navigator a year ago and a Ford dealer was able to confirm from the V.I.N. number, that the previous owner had serviced and changed transmission fluid at the $30K mile mark, as required by warranty. I'm at the 92K miles mark now and ready to do a drain & fill very soon to confirm a maintenance baseline. I'm definitely going to buy the Dorman pan with the drain plug to make future changes easier.
Awesome Tutorial!!!! Thank so Much for sharing, lots of wasted time with most videos that teach nothing 🤦🏻♀️!!!
Absolutely! Thanks for watching! 🙏
Got parts on the way, you made it look easy. Hoping it goes that way for me. Other videos show where 4 qts, 41/2 qts Then checking it and they are always putting more in. That had me confused, I am going to use your method, makes sense to me. I have a 2010 Ford f150 flex. With 150000 on it and just had the engine swapped, and was told I need to have my tranny serviced. Priced it and OMG expensive. I figured at that price I can get the parts, fluid, and tools for less and do it myself. My hard time is on the fluid level getting it right the first time.
So, you will need to keep filling when the transmission gets warm. I added that part to the description of the video because I didn't realize it needed to be done. You will be able to fit another quart or 2 in the transmission with it running while the fluid is warm.
Let me know how it goes! 🙏
How you made sure, it really flush out all fluid, specially, the one inside torque converter ?. Thanks for answering. BR.
This does not remove all the fluid, only about half. If you want to, you can do another fluid change about 10,000 miles after the first one and that should help get mostly new fluid in your transmission. Hope this helps! 🙏
I’ve always heard the fluid should be checked when it’s warm and the vehicle is running . The fluid expands as it warms up.
Absolutely! I have it updated in the description and will also be coming out with an updated video talking about this.
Why in the HELLLLL….isn’t there an actual drain plug in the bottom / low point of the engine?
Is there an after market trans oil pan with a drain plug ?
Or is there a really “ craftsman quality correct mod… to add a drain plug?
If changing your trans oil ( early) is the best thing you can do to increase reliability and longevity…. Then MAKING IT EASIER…TOOOOOOO…. CHANGE THE FLUID kind of makes sense ?
Ooops this guy replaced the oil pan with one that has a drain plug.
That drain plug is going to come in handy! Thanks for watching! 🤟
My wife knows that when I get a new ( used) truck… the FIRST THING I do .. I clean and Pressure wash everything….the Second THING I DO IS PB blaster everything… then I use a garden sprayer and spray/ coat every bit of the frame and all under body sheet metal with a couple coats of Rustoleum rusty metal primer…including way up in the wheel wells and the dog legs…. Then I start fixing the bullshit design flaws….like the mod where you can go into four wheel low but NOT connect the front axle ..so you have a granny low and then manual front axle connect from inside the truck…That tranny oil pan is totally going on the list. My CURRENT truck is a 2003 F150 4.6 4x4 MANUAL Trans…. It’s been a GREAT…GREAT… truck… but it’s time…. If they still made THAT truck…I’d get another… but as a second family vehicle it’s a little too tough for my wife …but she is excellent with minimizing clutch flare…. 130,000 miles original clutch… its not slipping but it does engage pretty high so we’re getting within 10,000 of a replacement… damn..
That truck is gonna be loved on the other side of the rainbow bridge @@TrickShiftGarage
That's awesome man! You take care of your truck, and it will take care of you. Ford will frustrate us with some of their boneheaded decisions, but their engines and transmissions last in their trucks. Especially from 2011 and up with the Coyote motor and 6R-80 trans. It's pretty common for people to get well beyond 300k miles.
The only thing I need is an exhaust to let that motor breath a little more. 😎
The new Toyota “e -cvt”… in their hybrids has TWO electric DRIVE motors INSIDE the Transaxle…. INSIDE THE TRANNY…..One is dedicated to turn/ start the gas engine…( the starter motor)… and the other is the “ tractor” electric motor that propels the car in “ electric mode”…. BUT BOTH OF THESE MOTORS ARE….INSIDE….THE TRANSMISSION…. if they are brushless and a/c electric motors….and they are built with Krptonite……ok… Then “ MAYBE” their life span is 200,000 miles and/ 20 years..?….. but we all know starter motors can fail at 125k, 100k, even 75,000 miles….. if EITHER of those motors fails at 80,000 AND THE TRANS HAS TO BE DISASSEMBLED to replace a damn STARTER MOTOR……$ 4000 for a starter motor...!,!!!!! …hell no… and I believe that the newer Fords use a similar E-cvt ….
Does anybody have any real knowledge on these concerns..? How long those motors are expected to REALLY endure ?
Thx
@@TrickShiftGarage
Newbie on cars. Newbie subscriber. Thanks for teaching us what "dads" don't
Hey man I'm sorry to hear that. I feel very blessed my father taught me everything he did, and I hope that's the case for everyone. But sadly I know it's not.
FYI, look at the description of the video if you haven't yet. I lay out the correct filling procedure for these transmissions.
Thanks for watching brother. 🤟
I thought the truck had to be running to check the fluid
Yep, the description has been updated to show that information.
How many quartz of transmission fluid dose my 2014 ford f150 5.0 takes?
It's not that simple. You need to drop the pan, replace the filter and then begin refilling. Once it's full, you then need to start your engine and let the transmission get up to operating temperature (this will take awhile in the cold weather). Then, you can add another quart or 2.
That's technically the proper way to fill these transmissions.
Excellent video! Right down to the pan bolts torque specs!! As long as the trans fluid is warm and circulated by going through the gear patterns, Does the engine need to be running or just observe the A and B marks on the dip stick? Thanks for sharing!! Thanks for the Links you provided too!!! Appreciate that very much.
Hello! Yes, the engine needs to be running and you need to watch your transmission temp gauge. Once it gets up to operating temperature (this will take longer than the engine reaching normal operating temp), then you can continue to fill.
The dipstick is odd. I'm not sure why there is an A or a B, but from what I've read you are better off filling it up to the top line. Once you get there, put the dipstick and cap back on, fasten it, and then you can shut the engine off. Don't shut the engine off while the dipstick and cap are off as this will cause fluid to leak out.
You may have mentioned it in the video but what brand of oil pan did you use? Want to have a drain plug for future.
The one I bought was from Dorman. I have a link to it in the description if you want to check it out. If it doesn't work, please let me know and I'll try to provide a different link.
To check have it running in park ? Neutral? Or what
Park
@@TrickShiftGarage thank youuu
Anytime! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Oh, I forgot to ask, is the truck level when adding the fluid and checking the level? Thanks again!
And yes, make sure the truck is level or it will give you an inaccurate reading. Thanks for watching and let me know how it goes brother! 🤟
My 2013 has an exaust right in the way no way I can get to the dipstick without removing stuff
Is it an aftermarket exhaust? There should be room if it's the factory exhaust. It's tight, but still plenty of room.
Smart, I was wondering why there was no drain. Where'd you get that pan? Ford was like let's make this as dangerous and inconvenient as possible lol.
I got the pan on Amazon from a company called Dorman. It works great! But that drain bolt should have come from the factory lol.
@TrickShiftGarage ok so this may be a dumb question, but was the plastic dipstick you checked atf level with there at the end contained inside the filler bolt you removed or was it an additional purchase one needs to check fluid level?
There is no such thing as a dumb question! And yes it was inside of the bolt. This is Fords cheap method of giving us a dipstick lol. I miss the days where a transmission dipstick was located under the hood.
Shouldn’t you check the trans fluid with the vehicle running?
Hello Tabcobra! So this has been a topic of discussion on these videos lately. Supposedly, in order to get an accurate reading, you need to:
Fill the pan until it is full.
Start your engine and get the transmission up to 200+ degrees.
Check the dipstick level and fill as needed.
However, I personally believe this is overkill. I watched a video from Fordtechmakuloko (spell check) and he acknowledged that you do not have to wait until the trans fluid is warm or hot. He said just get the fluid up just under where it's supposed to be on the dipstick. Since the fluid expands, it will rise to the appropriate level when it's hot.
This is essentially what I did when changing my fluid. A lot of people disagree with this method, however I will stick to this method for the life of the vehicle and post videos with updates on the status of the tranny. I plan on changing it every 60k miles and will make sure to include that in those videos as well.
Sorry for the length of this, but I wanted to make sure I gave you every piece of information without misleading you or anyone else. Thanks for watching ! 🤟
@@TrickShiftGarage Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it! But just so I understand, you just have the trans warm and NOT actually running?
No problem. And yes, that is correct. I will provide updates each time I change the fluid and if there are any issues. I think my transmission will be just fine though.
Was told you need the truck on in park or neutral to check the level of Tran fluid. Is this correct?
Yes, and also while the truck is running. You need the fluid to get up to operating temperature to get an accurate reading. Typically, you let it run for 10-15 minutes and then check. Just be careful, the catalytic converter is right there. So get yourself some heat resistant gloves.
@@TrickShiftGarage ok 👌 yeah I already got myself a few times 😂. I may have a bad seal I added fluid because my digital gauge was showing 204 temp and never has been that high. I filled and then noticed my gauge slowly went back to 200 while driving the next day. I figured I didn’t tighten the plug enough so I refilled and check again today but I did notice liquid around the back part of the pans seal.
Make sure you also check the lines that run up to your transmission cooler. Those are known to fail and if they do, there is a good chance it will destroy your transmission.
@@TrickShiftGarage lines seem to be good I have no signs of a leak besides possibly the seal. Appreciate the content and response extremely helpful! 🙏
Anytime! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Thank you for the video was quoted 780 to do the job I’m buying tools at harbor freight and doing this next weekend cheers
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
Also, make sure you look at the description of this video. I have information on how to properly fill these transmissions.
Thank you for your video…I followed step by step and yes… when I check the level engine off it was on the mark but with the engine ON and warm I add 2 litters more !!!! did I do it wright ?
Yes! You did it right!
I bought 2012 f150 xlt with 167K I don’t think the transmission has been serviced. Do you think I should do what you did with dropping the pan and changing the fluid and filter? Or don’t mess with it?
Hello Cesar, so I can't tell you what you should do in this situation. However, if I purchased a truck with 167k miles, I would check the dipstick and see if the fluid is black and smells burnt. If it does, then I would consult a Ford tech and ask for their opinion. These transmissions are really durable, and will reward you for changing the fluid. But at 167k miles, it's hard to recommend changing it or leaving it alone because the affect of either or will vary per truck.
I wish I could give you a more in depth answer, but I would hate to give you bad advice and possibly ruin your transmission. Whatever you decide, make sure you keep us updated!
Can you just use a Syphon pump to draw this out and then simply replace through the dipstick tube the same amount that you removed? I’ve done that on another transmission a few times and it was super easy to do
Yea I guess you could, but it would take longer. That's why I bought a pan with a drain bolt. Makes changing the fluid a lot easier.
did you change the oil pan so you now have a drain plug I noticed the new pan has a drain plug maybe you mentioned it in the video.
Yep that's exactly why I changed the pan! It's going to make changing the fluid a lot easier next time! Thanks for watching! 🤟
I'm sure you haven't had problems before. But it's best to check fluid when the vehicle(any vehicle) is level. Your fluid level is going to be a hair off
My truck as pretty level since the ground had a slight slope to it. But yes, it needs to be level to read properly. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Great video, incredibly helpful.
Question for you guys. I have a 2013 f150 v8 5.0L. I put the front wheels on ramps, drained the pan (foil idea was clutch), cleaned it, replaced filter, put the pan back, and then pumped just shy of 6 quarts into the transmission until it started to overflow (still up on ramps). Took it off the ramps, let id idle for 15 mins, cool for 5, then checked fluid level. Why would it still be showing low? It's not even reaching the "B". I know the obvious thing is to add more fluid, but I really don't want to risk overfilling and dealing with that issue.
Definitely add more fluid. And many people have informed me you need to check and top off the fluid while the engine is running (and the transmission fluid needs to be warm). You will need heat resistant gloves as the plug is right next to the catalytic converter. Don't worry about overfilling, it's almost impossible to do that since there isn't a dipstick under the hood (it's built into the plug).
@@TrickShiftGarage Man, i cannot thank you enough, not just for the video, but for the quick and helpful response. You just saved me a lot of money!
Absolutely man, glad to help! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Hi, excellent video. Could you send me the link for the pump that you was using, please? Thank you
Hello Pablo! Here is the link: amzn.to/3T5n2oH
Thanks for watching!
Hi. Thank you.
Anytime! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Guys I need help. 2012 Ford F-150 xlt with this tranny. The first 4 bolts, closest to the engine, I cannot get out for the life of me. The angle is horrible with that exhaust pipe in the way. I used the 8mm socket with multiple extensions and on my 1/4 and 3/8 drive. Can’t get it to sit flush, it feels like I’m stripping it because of the angle. Please help me with any Advice. Now I’m out of a vehicle
Hello Don, have you tried using open ended wrenches? Or ratcheting wrenches (if you have them)? Those bolts are an absolute pain to get to.
@@TrickShiftGarage I literally tried everything, I had to cut the exhaust pipe right out to get to them, about a foots worth. Boom, blots came right off now. I even tried heating them up and put pb blaster on them, nothing,,,, So now ill just clamp the exhasut piece back on, what a headache!
Did u Buy ah new gasket, Pan & filter, Or you just cleans the old 1’s and reused it?
I bought a new gasket, even though Ford says you can reuse the old one. I bought a new filter because you need to change the filter when you change the fluid (around every 60k miles). And I changed the pan to make draining the fluid easier in the future.
and done thanks mate 😎🤙 did it with an automatic ATF pump all 7q in less then a min went threw the gears turned it off re checked the dip stick and water pressure the undercarriage so nothing catches fire while i left it idling for 30 minutes turned it off for an hour then drove home for 1 hour everything went smoothly i was just wishing bought that same pan you got would of man life easier the next time i do the fluid change but what ever the point is that its taken care of ✌️
Awesome man glad you got it done! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 🙏
Sorry to bother but can you write the pound pressure on the bolts please? I really like the video thank you a lot.
I believe they are 10 foot pounds.
Great video, did you make sure truck is on level ground when putting fluid back in? I see the truck is on ramps.
Thanks! Truck was pretty much level as the ground was slightly inclined. I'm not sure if it was perfect, but it was close.
You’re changing the oil in the pan but don’t change anything in the converter which is a good portion of the oil. That’s really only half the job because now you have dirty oil mixed with the fresh oil. Just saying that is half the job. That’s why the transmission shop is the best option. It costs more but they can flush out all of the oil.
Yup! But flushes have also been known to cause damage to these newer transmissions. You can definitely go to a dealer, but I'm going to stick with what's worked for me for a long time.
@@TrickShiftGarage How does flushing hurt the transmission? I have never had one flushed but I have a F 150 that needs service and am debating the best option for service. I want the filter changed and the oil completely replaced so I guess I’ll go get it flushed and hope that doesn’t damage anything.
Thanks for the video, had some big repairs between my 2017 F150 and my wife's 2013 Explorer that I actually had to take to a shop since it was out of my scope. Glad to see this this one is fairly easy. I have around 75K on the F150 and tow fairly light loads with it constantly and wanted to get this done in the next couple of months. Then it will be onto the Explorer which doesn't look fun with the transfer case sine I have the awd model.
Yea this isn't too bad. I'll be doing an updated video for the transmission fluid, this time showing exactly how to fill it and how to tell when it's perfectly filled. Make sure you look in the description of this video as I have updated information in there. Let me know if you have any questions!
I have 98K miles on my 2015 f150. I was going to change it. But I wonder should i "change" it or have it flushed? I hear different opinions on the flush
Hello Pete! Personally, I don't think I would ever flush. I've never had a transmission fail by just dropping the pan. I have heard people say they ruined a transmission shortly after flushing though. But that's just my opinion. Do whatever you feel is best for your truck!
@@TrickShiftGarage Thanks.. Also you mentioned the "trick" with the foil. that's pretty cool. I think I will just use a oil extractor.
Did I miss something or did that old trans pan not have a drain plug? But the new one does?
Yea, I mentioned I put a new pan on.
Very helpful. At what mileage did you change the transmission fluid? Thanks.
I believe I was around 80,000. Thanks for watching! 🤟
Shouldn't truck be running while checking trans fluid
Yep! Description has all the updates in there.
Thank you for the overall one of the best to date on my end an overall amazing video, definitely have my sharing support. Quick question where can I find what you used to pump the new Trans fluid back into pan?
Hello, I have a link for the pump in the description of the video. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
If you can't find it, I'll also link it in this comment:
Fluid Pump - amzn.to/44po84j
If your putting a new pan on, just drill a hole in bottom of old one to drain. Keeps it clean.
You could for sure!
i noticed you replaced the oem pan with an after market with a drain plug. That makes life alot easier. Why didnt ford make it to where trans changes were as easy as oil changes?
Definitely makes it easier. Personally, I think Ford (as well as some other automakers) do this to discourage owners from doing the maintenance on their vehicles. They want people to go to the dealer. And honestly, it works for the most part. Most people don't want to spend the extra time doing it themselves, so they just take it to the dealer. But you can save a boatload of money by doing it yourself. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment Khoa! We appreciate it! 🤟
great video definitely took a couple notes the newer the vehicle the more work it seems makes me miss the 1986 5.0 "ghost" might have to get another one
Yea it's definitely different. Also, make sure you check the description. There is more information there on how to properly fill these transmissions (if you haven't already).
Thanks for watching and let me know how it goes when you do yours! 🤟
Excellent video. Pro tip is use a kiddie pool underneath to catch fluid.
That will definitely help keep the ground clean! Thanks for watching! 🤟
Exactly what I used today.😂
If you pop off a trans cooler line in the front under the radiator, you can pump out the remaining 8 quarts of old fluid by starting the truck and cycling the shift selector. Just keep topping off the transmission as you go so it does not suck dry. When it comes out bright red, you’re done.
I've been really thinking about doing a video on how to do that, but I need to do some more research.
Do you know where I can find a write-up of this procedure?
Should I change the fluid with 137000 not sure if it's been changed
Hello Chuck, I'm not quite sure to be 100% honest. Some people say to change it anyway, other people say to leave it alone. I will say this, if it was my truck I would change it because I don't feel like 137,000 miles is too much. If the truck had over 200,000 miles, then that would be a different story. But that's just my opinion.
Why didn't you pump the old fluid out before you drop the pan?
It wasn't necessary.
You sir deserve the award of smartest man on earth.
Just changed my fluid. The tinfoil trick was amazing!
Awesome! Glad it worked for you! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! 🤟
Smarter sucking fluid out with a fluid extractor
You can, but the aluminum foil worked just fine.
Great Job! Thanks look easy but not share I want to do this. What if the transmissions don't work after I'm done.
If the transmission doesn't work after you are done, then it was already broken to begin with. Changing the fluid the proper way will not ruin your transmission. You can do this!
Let us know who it goes! 🤟
Man, that was a GREAT video and very easy to follow...Thank you 🫡
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment Rob! We appreciate it! 🤟
Thank you for the overall one of the best to date on my end an overall amazing video, definitely have my sharing support. Quick question where can I find what you used to pump the new Trans fluid back into pan?
Thank you! The pump should be in the description of the video! Thanks for watching! 🤟
So pretty much just fill it till it comes out and after it starts and shifts through the gears it should level out haha
I’m gonna do mine soon. Everywhere I’ve called to have this service done it’s well over 300 dollars
Hello Kevin! Yes, that's pretty much it! The main thing is making sure the fluid warms up and travels through the gears. Just make sure you don't burn yourself! The catalytic converter is right next to it, so grab some gloves when you check it again. Good luck and thanks for watching! 🤟
Video is great! Did everything less than an hour if you don't count waiting for all the fluid to drain.
Awesome! Glad you got it done! 👍
Are the pan bolts sae or metric? I want to order that ratchet set for this. Did you replace the pan in order to have one with a drain plug for easier removal for Faust fluid changes without filter replacement?
I believe the bolts were metric (if I'm remembering correctly). And yes, I bought that pan so I could easily drain the fluid before removing, but I still plan on changing the filter too.
I think I'm going to change the fluid every 30k miles, and then the filter every 60k miles.
Having a hard time getting the filter and pan to match up good enough to pop the pan in flush....Any tips on this ? Or am I the only one having this issue? Been messing with just this part for hours and can't figure It out.
And now I finally thought I had it, bolted it all up and decided to see if anything would drain after 3 quarts of fluid and nothing cones out....I looked up in the plug since nothing was coming out and saw the paperish filter from inside the new transmission filter....is this suppose to be lined up like that? So confused
Did you get the correct filter? Mine had a black plastic housing. I was not able to see the filter elements at all.
I saw another video where you have to replace the transmission auxiliary pump inlet tube seal after pulling off the filter. Now that I’ve seen a few other videos I don’t see this same seal on the transmission. Have you ever heard of this seal? I can’t find it in the fords part site either.
Hello Roy, I believe that's for the vehicles equipped with the start stop feature. Some Fords use an auxiliary pump to keep transmission fluid pressure up so when you release the brake pedal and the engine turns back over, you have fluid moving through your transmission immediately. This can help prevent unnecessary wear and tear from the start stop feature.
Thanks for watching! 🤟
Well I just tried this. I broke 5 of the 6 8MM bolts before I realized they were breaking off, instead of unscrewing. The seal between the pan and transmissions is probably still good, but I wouldn't trust it to drive very far.
I'm sorry to hear that. I'm not sure which bolts you broke, but some of them you can access above. Try to grab a pair of locking pliers and clamp down on them and then turn. That should help you get some of them out.
@@TrickShiftGarage The bolts are the first 6 bolts your video says to remove...the ones in the back. It wouldn't do me any good to remove the broken ones if I don't have anything to replace them with.
@@panderson9561autozone would have bolts to replace them with. Take a bolt off & go up there & there should be a bolts section on the end of an aisle. Put the bolt in whichever hole it fits, it’ll tell you which bolts to buy.
For the broken bolts, buy an extractor
Wow, that fluid is nasty. How many miles on it?
When I changed it, I believe my truck had around 80,000 miles. This should be done at 60,000.
How did the Dorman pan with drain plug work for you? Any issues with fit/clearance with stock fluid filter or drips from drain plug?
No issues so far, but I've only driven about 10k miles since installing. In a couple of months I'm going to do another fluid change (because my old fluid had a very strong burnt smell) and will use the drain plug.
After having the pan installed for a year, I'll do another video on it basically reviewing it and describing any issues I may have had.
Any feedback on the drain plug?
Hello Ron! I have no feedback just yet other than it's not leaking. I plan on changing the fluid again sometime next year, and will provide an update video on it. So far, so good though.