On my 2011 F150 Ecoboost, in addition - Sync system not responding (replaced), seized vacuum pump (replaced), shattered rear window after defrost activated (replaced window assembly), rusted out front brakes/rotors (replaced), engine start up rattle at 35k miles (vehicle traded out at 40k, someone else's problem now). There were some other problems that I'll skip...................
No mention about the intermediate driving shaft, the rear wheel wells rusting out in no time, and look out for bed light gasket rots quick and water leaks in thru it and rots your roof liner before you know it’s happening. I’m on my last Ford truck never again!
The bottom line is computers can make a minor issue one that will ruin your vehicle. I miss the days when there were no computers on trucks and you could work on everything with tools instead of computers
This is why trucks don’t need automatics and the useless electronic devices. Get back to the basics. Trucks should be trucks not limousines. A standard transmission a a 6.2l engine that runs on mechanical input rather than a modular engine that has to have a bunch of useless electronics to run.
Here's a really neat trick I learned years ago; if you suspect a engine misfire, take a good thick piece of paper and hold it flat up against the tailpipe. If you can see and hear a "put put put" sound then chances are you have a bad spark plug or fuel injector.
So basically, get a vehicle that doesn't have a computer. Seems like the miles of wires, faulty sensors, bad programs, and junk plugs and harness are all the problems. Lol, better get you an 85 square body
I’m the original owner of a 2009 5.4 S/crew FX4 Luxury Package, besides regular maintenance items like belts, brakes, plugs, etc.this is what I’ve had to repair in 13 years now: Passenger side A pillar water leak through the satellite radio antenna when fairly new, then the A/C compressor clutch went out while still under warranty. Had a nice stretch of zero problems for a few years then I had to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold in 2018, 3rd brake light leaked and replaced in 2019, heater fan blower motor resistor in 2021 (would only run on hi speed) and then the heater fan motor itself in 2022. With meticulous engine oil changes the 5.4 still runs quietly so far…Overall I’m pretty pleased with it after 13 years of use considering the questionable reputation of the 5.4 as I haven’t even had the check engine light come on once in all this time.
You need to make a 12th gen video engine specific. Those years had some of Fords main engines in these years. 5.4, 5.0, 6.2, 3.5 eb That's a ton of different problems to look at
Don't forget the A/C evaporator getting clogged with dust and crap, causing weak air flow. And you have to remove the dash to clean it, because a cabin air filter was omitted by the engineers.
My 2011 f150 has 211,000 km and everything including the ac works perfect.it blows so cold that I can’t even use it on full,or I’ll freeze.the heater is also amazing.it’s only ever on low,even in the winter.honestly I love my truck.no complaints about anything
You don't have to remove the dash. Just score 3 lines of a square and flip back the tab you cut in the Evap housing and wash it out gently after applying cleaner. Push it back then Seal it with some good AC duct tape or drain pipe seal tape. Its just a plastic box and isn't thermal. The fan blows through the evap coil so its fine. Garbage design with no cabin filter. Shame on Ford
I have a 2010 FX4 5.4L with 180k.The only problems I've had to fix: 1. replace broken sunroof mechanisms (requires removing the entire headliner) 2. replace water pump and pulleys 3. lift motor to replace exhaust manifolds and extract 6 broken bolts 4. replace cam phasers, timing chains and roller rockers due to $20 broken plastic chain guides (upgraded to cast iron chain tensioners and hi-po oil pump) 5. replace ECM that was coding 6. replace rear taillights due to moisture problems 7. replace AC compressor 8. rebuild blower motor 9. replace console cover due to broken helper spring (wtf) 10. transfer case rebuild Mods: 1. Bilstein performance shocks with 2 inch lift 2. K&N air filter 3. Borla touring exhaust 4. Cross drilled and slotted rotors 5. Tibren load springs 8 grand later...runs like a champ and sounds incredible. Fortunately I can wrench or it would have cost me double. I bought it for 24 grand with 36k miles.
Also, fuse #27 burns out often, not letting your truck start up if it’s been running for a while. Fuse is prone to BURNING out due to the bad placement of the fuse box. Easy fix to replace the fuse to get home but a fuse box relocation kit is the ticket.
Eventually that fuse is going to melt and short again. Ford has a tech bulletin on this and O’Reillys and some of the auto parts stores sell a kit that you can purchase and easily upgrade your fuse box with the new fuse. The old one was not enough for the current. The TSB has you moving the location of the fuse. Don’t make the mistake of taking your truck to the Ford dealer they’ll charge $1800 and tell you that it was your fuel pump.
@@jakehodges4602 my 2006 GMC Topkick flatbed has seen MANY MANY MANY of them, between the Focus, Fusion, and the 12th gen F150, i cant say which one is worse
These trucks are complete junk! What a rust bucket...they are totally designed to rust fast.... between the sponge material in the bed arch to the moonroof drain tubes emptying into the cab corners.. wtf?
Awesome brother I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast as well with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
2011 with the 5.0 with 215,000 miles. I had the TCM computer board fail and do something similar to #1 and had #4 occur at 125,000 miles. The TCM cost me around $1200 and the charcoal canister issue was $350.00. The stereo went out which sucked so I put an after market in. Starter went out at 150,000 mikes, the truck starts up so fast those teeth get worn out. Those have been my major repairs since I’ve owned it. I’ve got a friend with the smaller 2009 4.7L v8 at 350,000 miles so I’m still optimistic to get some more good miles out of mine.
The best seller and has this many problems including the transmission locking up on the freeway safety issue???? Wow How stupid is our society that's making it the best-seller?? How about just buying a Toyota or Nissan and being safe
M y 2013 F150 3.5 liter Ecoboost is a piece of crap. Original owner, it has 45,000 mile on it and my timing chain has gone twice, rear window shattered when I put the defroster on, started truck the other day and noticed a shutter , I drove down the street and the rpms just dropped to nothing and the brakes went out. I limped it home and it is nothing ,but an oversized paperweight.
I have had nothing but major problems with my 2014 f 150 fx 4x4. I quit buying American made vehicles in 1982. Now I remember why.i have put 10,000. Dollar's in repairs. I dumping this vehicle and going back to Toyota. Plastic heard in the air diversion system. Rack and pinion that can't be greased failed after 6 years. Transmission sensor currently been replaced. I'm well ng this to carvana and taking my losses. I can't afford to retire with an American vehicle on my property.
I like these! Pretty informative. Think you guys could do a video on the 2006-2013 Chevrolet Impala? That would also cover the 2014-2016 Impala Limited. Thanks!
I have a 2014 Ecoboost 3.5 twin turbo. My opinion is the motors are far to sophisticated, and they use cheap parts. Also they HVAC wiring and mechanical parts under the dash are chinese junk. Unfortunately, Ford ain't what it used to be.
NEVER BUY A FORD. I’ve been inundated one problem after the next and my truck is just 6 years old. The warranty is up and Ford refuses to fix anything despite the fact that the issues cannot have possibly been due to owner fault. Even when my engine blew at 55k they told me I was over the miles. I religiously change my oil - fully synthetic every 5k. And most of my driving is highway miles. There’s no reason why this should have happened and the people at Ford in Limerick, Pa couldn’t care less. I’ve been a loyal Ford owner through thick and thin but this one will be my last mistake.
Posts like yours make me hesitant about buying a Ford f-150. I am considering the 2011 through 2014 models, but I actually do not need a pickup truck at all. The F-150 offers front bench seating in many of its vehicles, which I prefer to having a prominent center console between the two front seats. I checked some of the other pickups that offer front bench seating, but I ruled them out based on gas mileage, poor reviews, and/or costs. Seriously, I am wondering to myself if I want to spend north of $15K on a 10-year-old Ford with well over 100,000 miles. I would feel less hesitant about a Toyota or certain model and year Hondas with high miles. So I am trying to decide between an f-150, a van (which I don't want) with a hip level center console, or learning to like the center console in a Honda Pilot or Toyota Highlander.
The phasers on the cam tensioners, that’s a 5k repair, turbos leak radiator fluid, and my favorite, AC blend doors are total trash. Spent $1200 to have all for of them replaced with OEM parts and not even 6 months later, you guessed it, driver side and passenger side blend door no longer work. I will never own another for after having this FX4.
I would add coolant reservoir leak, and timing chain tensioner too. Fuel door coming loose. Might be a few more im forgetting at the moment. I put a Pioneer headunit on my 2012 XLT 3 years back. No issues ever.
Unfortunately these vehicles need good routine maintenance, mine had over 150,000 miles with only the IMS issue. Oil is the most important issue with the 5.4. Never use 5w-20, when the engine came out 5w-30 was recommended. They changed for gas mileage and it is too thin for the cam phasers when hot.
Holy shit dude, I’m so happy I found your video. I looked where the fuel canister box is at I see a plug on the end and one of the wires is cut. Gonna rig up some southern ingenuity on this wire and see if this is my problem. Keep doing what you’re doing bud you may have saved me from a rabbit chase.
Don’t forget about the rocker panels completely rotting out I mean there’s huge chunks or steel gone and I waxed my truck a couple times a year absolutely disgusting
Fuel filter/gauge, windshield wiper switch, rear window(after it shattered) fuel filler door, serpentine belt, water pump, rear driver side door lock motor, back-up camera shifter connectors, water hose ‘o’ rings- but after replacing all that, it’s a dam fine truck!
Add a year since that comment: replaced the coolant system ‘y’ connecter, driveshaft! This had to be ‘made’ for me ; $700. And most recently: the stereo is on the fritz -- oh also, ( I’m sure I’m about to come outta pocket for this) (and it’ only did it one time) the power steering …. I don’t even know what to call it- i think it’s an electric pump(?) / it dosent operate off the belt- here’s a plus: just changed the original brakes ( pads only because the rotors were fine @ 192K miles!
What about the timing chain tensioners going on the 5.4 tritons. The driver's side springs breaking. The front driver's side calipers locking up. The VCT solenoids getting dirty and causing misfires and it to run rough. And the 3rd brake light leaking when it rains and getting the interior soaked. All these are fairly common issues
I've put 140k miles on my 2011 f150 ecoboost, very few problems, 2 purge selonoids, regular tuneups, 4wd actuator, and a thermostat, and basic parts that just ware out like brakes and rotors. Now my old 2006 f150 was a different story.
Evap canister purge valve, O2 sensor have had to be changed on my 2010. Another common fault is the AC fan blower motor resistor behind the glove box. That's had to be replaced three times. Also watch out for the 4WD hubs trying to engage due to a lack of vacuum. That can be fixed by replacing the $14 blue check valve located against the firewall.
Yep me too. Y thing on coolant line. Elbow leaking under coolant resivoir. Radio went out. Blower motor. Rear defrost is out. Driver side iwe or vac line. Think rear main leaking now. 250k on it. Runs great besides these things. Ha.
I think you missed two big ones: 1) IWE/Vaccuum hubs on 4x4 trucks . Mine have gone out twice on both sides. 2) water pumps. My water bump exploded after 30K miles.
Yeah the rocker panels on these rust REAL bad. Wish there was a cheaper alternative but once mine get too bad that it effects the integrity of the frame, or my doors no longer latch to it, I'm gonna have to cut the whole things out and weld in new ones. Or pay a shop 4 or 5 grand to do it for me. Lol
2010 F150 5.4 Triton Ecoboost V8 101,000 miles. New spark plugs by Ford at 100K - still have a slight rough idle (no codes/check engine light) and after it sets for a day, fuel smell outside for a few minutes. Mileage intown/road is around 12-13 mpg, and has been forever. Thoughts? (I'm second owner, and have had it since around 40K miles. It does have a K&N air filter.
My backup camera failures seem to be tied to the harness at the tailgate being moved around. Also the spedo resting at 40mph after a batter change. A whole new "cluster" I will install myself. Hate to pay the dealer anything seeing how their honesty is never actually reliable but reprogramming the cluster for my current millage, I don't know how to do. Thx for the vid. You guys are my favorite how to people. You're all going to heaven!!!
dealerships will NOT completely fix the problem with the trans. the only way to completely fix it is to replace the leadframe with the updated version and THEN reprogram the trans. what about leaky sunroofs and 3rd brake lights that rusts out the rockers? what about the brake issue with many of these year trucks? theres a lot more serious problems than the my ford touch issue...
I have 2009 with a 4.6 251.000 miles changed oil every year rain or shine. Never had any mayor issues. Has a clicking sound when starting. But runs like a champ.
It should be noted that if the purge solenoid fails it won't set the cel and the vacuum pressure can implode the gas tank and even rupture, spilling gas. Bad bad bad on Ford. Chevy does purge solenoid failures in a much healthier way.
It’s crazy that Ford made the first car on an assembly line. And still have such extreme magnitude quality problems in 2022. Why can’t they get it right? What’re the engineers smoking? What engineering development processes are being followed? Why wasn’t this caught in Design Validation testing? Why aren’t there quality controls on place? Why wasn’t this caught in the DFMEA/ PFMEA!?
Ford has been phenomenal for that transmission recall. Wouldn't call it a problem at all. Gloves, long nails.....screen not responding to touch.....just like ANY other touch screen in ANY other vehicle. O2 sensors? Really? So if You consider O2 sensor is being issue with f150 then OTHER cars have O2 sensors that last FOREVER right? Purge solenoid? Charcoal canister? Im sorry but what is wrong with u? Its a ware and tare items.
The biggest PITA for me has been the optional electric sliding rear window with the defrost. The defrost has went out on me three times now - two under warranty, this last time on my dime, which I'm not going to pay for yet. Sucks, because the circuit also includes the heated mirrors, so neither system works now. And Ford won't recall this!
Same here mine flickers on and off and never works correctly, I eventually gave up on it because I have a bed cap and the back cab window rarely gets enough ice on it to matter.
You can access the wiring for the rear window defrost behind the rear seat on passenger side and place jumper on it. Then your heated mirrors will work. Had same problem and since I never really needed the rear window defrost, this was the best option. Think there is a You tube video showing this.
My 2013 F-150 downshifted at 65 mph to first gear and damaged the engine and Ford will not fix it and they asked me for $16,500 to fix it after the recall was done. The recall did not fix the downshift. No more Fords for me!
The big one Ford needs to pony up and fix is the phome falling and blocking the vent from moving so the defrost doesn't work 😑 😒 Step up admit it Ford this is a problem and definitely a safety issue...
Just fyi a couple things. I've had most of these issues and here were my fixes that differ from the video. 1 misfire. If your Ecoboost is running fine at idle and low speed but misfires when you step hard on the gas you have an issue with the intercooler building moisture and oil. It's an extremely easy fix and if you TH-cam Ecoboost wheep whole you will see Many vids on this. You basically drill a very small hole in the bottom of the intercooler. After I did this it took 90 percent of the misfire away and after changing my plugs completely went away. (takes 10 minutes to do even for someone who doesn't know what there doing) 2. The touch screen not working. This is a problem with the ampid modular in the back of the head unit. They aren't cheap but easy to install a new one. Just make sure it's programmed to your truck. 3. Backup camera not working. Mine did crazy things like reversing the image to lines to a black screen. Usaly it would work when you first stay the truck then go haywire lol. Just replace the camera. Super easy but unfortunately on mine I had to replace the Ford logo as well.
i’ve had many problems with my 2011 f150 such as oil issues also with the 02 sensor and the timing chain. second time it’s went bad along with the lifters
Same here man 2011 f150 and mine is currently in the shop from my timing chain snapping while I was driving. Turns out my driver side block is bad. This is days after I replaced a 02 sensor
Upon repair of the O2 sensor did the ever explain the cause of failure? I believe mine comes and goes and that the issue is caused by sagging heat shield sitting on top of it due to ac drain dripping into/on it weighing it down. When my VCTs were repaired at 90.000 miles they said my 02 retarded and needed replaced but then said computer flashing fixed it. So i’m still chasing the ghost possibly electrical related due to water entry in 3rd brake light/XM satellite antenna leaking down to pcm/fuses etc. She’s payed for and still runs.
@@SteveWilsonWCFurniture you should have some service on the driveshaft, is really easy DIY and save some money just buy the kit at Ford or just buy grease( look for videos ) is super easy and that will fix your problem, I used to have that problem.
I thought about getting an 09-2010 f150 but depending on who’s video you watch wether is Scotty or the wizard one says those are great years and the other says to run away fast. Seems any American pick up from 08-12 are all problematic
I have a 2011 Ford F150, lariat 4 x 4, that is doing all kinds of things radio quit working clock flashes sometimes it won’t start because it’s not connecting oh and gear properly numerous numerous things
I'm having a weird issue with my 2013 f150 platinum 5.0l it will randomly shut off and say low oil pressure it only dose it when I go into reverse and stop and it's idling weird
My 09 f150 platinum won't change where the air blows from. It was stuck on the feet so I changed the actuator, but it still wouldn't change. I have removed the actuator and moved the gears by hand to get the air out of the dash vents.
Went to your website and typed in Scanners and it "No results found for "Scanner", Check the spelling, try a more general term, or select a category below." why wouldn't it show what Scanners you sell? Or maybe you just don't sell them any longer.
Slip yoke. Literally the most common issue with these years. The thing is a pile of shit and Ford absolutely refuses to issue a recall on their faulty design.
I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it and with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
It’s kind of funny when he describes the way he would process and work on a car starting not with the free item which would be to take off the negative cable and let the truck reset itself then go ahead and try the other things like the downloadable program etc. Lotta his things were kind of backwards almost like you think he’s a service advisor not a mechanic... Sorry technicians I don’t know why they thought to change the name of mechanics but I never noticed it before that they do not say mechanic on a lot of workouts and say say technician
Yes me too my 2013 F-150 has problems with Bluetooth connecting to my phone it randomly skips songs I have to disconnect and reconnect all the time it’s really annoying.
Only problems I have had with my 2012 Ecoboost are coolant line leaks ( both roughly around 125-135k miles where they connect to the overflow tank as well as the turbos), and misfires from worn plugs( between 80-100k each time) Currently A 189k and still running good. Tow a sxs up the mountain quite a bit and am on the throttle all the time too. Great truck.
I have a 2013 5.0. Just search Y connecter coolant hose and O rings! Ford could not fix it in three attempts. I did it myself off a TH-cam video and ordered the parts off Amazon. Hasn’t leaked since😎
hey i have a 2012 ecoboost 3.5, i got last summer, and my front right brake was dragging when i got it. i replaced caliber and rotary but later that day it started dragging again. i changed severai times trying to find problems as i went because the diagnostic machines said nothing was wrong at dealerships (went to 3 in 3 different states while working). after several miserable weeks of this i was finnaly told by a guy on the streets that it was the soft rubber hose going from brake line to brake caliber. i replaced both for around $40 and solved the problem. now its working fine and pulls like a ox.
I have the misfire problem but it only happens in cold weather anyone else have this problem when the outside temp is warmer outside it runs fine I'm thinking it's warn plugs
+Men, Toys, and Outdoors Thank you for your order! We'd love to hear about your experience. Here's a link to leave us a review on Google: goo.gl/i5JFNY
Modern vehicles and their plethora of electronic sensors & gadgets are HELLA fun, don’t get me wrong, but… also just more stuff to go wrong and keep you coming back to the dealer / shop. Time, money, effort, focus lost. This is why I still drive my 2003 F150. 😁
Lead frame recall on 2013 5.0 covered under 150k miles under warranty $1700 job if you miss the 150k mile cutoff. oil pressure sending unit or sensor faulty at 175k miles. I had the purge valve issue. Otherwise, that 5.0 coyote engine is a beast
if anyone having issues withe 4x4 make sure to check that the vacuum hub, most of these get dirt and or sand really easy and they will not open as the are suppose to. Transfer case is hard for it fail its more than likely tht is something as simple as the vacuum hub
2013 F 150 4x4 STX 5.0 with 3.73 gears. 225,000 miles and still going for now. Did replace transmission at 180,000 miles due to weekly towing of heavy boat. Normal maintenance other than that. I know the time is near for a new truck. New truck prices just blow me away. I wonder what a new 5.0 motor would cost? If it's even worth it?
Larry Sigers, engine isn’t that costly when you think of a new truck. $7000-ish. Maybe get it rebuilt. My 2014 FX4 has 245,000 km and aside from oil/fuel/windshield/washer fluid/wiper blades/tires it’s all original. Never had any of these issues. It’s now getting everything flushed, new brakes and struts, new filters, hoses & spark plugs and I think I’m swapping gears from 3.73 to 3.31/3.08 since I do mainly highway driving at a set speed.
0:14 Transmission Recall
0:56 MyFord Touch Head Unit
2:42 O2 Sensors PO130 PO150
3:53 Canister Purge Solenoid
4:54 Engine Misfire
Reached out to Ford for my 2010 on the safety and stated there was no recall. Then went online and also do not see a recall notice.
Misfire
On my 2011 F150 Ecoboost, in addition - Sync system not responding (replaced), seized vacuum pump (replaced), shattered rear window after defrost activated (replaced window assembly), rusted out front brakes/rotors (replaced), engine start up rattle at 35k miles (vehicle traded out at 40k, someone else's problem now). There were some other problems that I'll skip...................
No mention about the intermediate driving shaft, the rear wheel wells rusting out in no time, and look out for bed light gasket rots quick and water leaks in thru it and rots your roof liner before you know it’s happening. I’m on my last Ford truck never again!
Engine Misfire - Intercooler has oil/water pooled in bottom. Hole can be drilled to drain and fix misfire problem.
Shout out to this guy for also helping deaf people understand this video.
You forgot to mention if your truck cranks but wont start to check fuse #27, blown fuse or burned connections.
Happened to me a few months ago
Exact same thing happened to me I worried that I had to get a new fuel pump or a part fuel related, thankful for the ford forums
Here here!
2014 5.0 same thing at 80k
Yep happened to me on my 2014
The bottom line is computers can make a minor issue one that will ruin your vehicle. I miss the days when there were no computers on trucks and you could work on everything with tools instead of computers
This is why trucks don’t need automatics and the useless electronic devices. Get back to the basics. Trucks should be trucks not limousines. A standard transmission a a 6.2l engine that runs on mechanical input rather than a modular engine that has to have a bunch of useless electronics to run.
Here's a really neat trick I learned years ago; if you suspect a engine misfire, take a good thick piece of paper and hold it flat up against the tailpipe. If you can see and hear a "put put put" sound then chances are you have a bad spark plug or fuel injector.
+Jonathon Haug Thanks for the tip!
actually learned this in school. it’s literally called the paper test. you have that back pressure, look into an ignition miss
Or mkre simply you just look for a p03xx code.
Should also talk about most common o ring failure on the y or t connection to coolent container
So basically, get a vehicle that doesn't have a computer. Seems like the miles of wires, faulty sensors, bad programs, and junk plugs and harness are all the problems. Lol, better get you an 85 square body
I’m the original owner of a 2009 5.4 S/crew FX4 Luxury Package, besides regular maintenance items like belts, brakes, plugs, etc.this is what I’ve had to repair in 13 years now: Passenger side A pillar water leak through the satellite radio antenna when fairly new, then the A/C compressor clutch went out while still under warranty. Had a nice stretch of zero problems for a few years then I had to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold in 2018, 3rd brake light leaked and replaced in 2019, heater fan blower motor resistor in 2021 (would only run on hi speed) and then the heater fan motor itself in 2022. With meticulous engine oil changes the 5.4 still runs quietly so far…Overall I’m pretty pleased with it after 13 years of use considering the questionable reputation of the 5.4 as I haven’t even had the check engine light come on once in all this time.
Ain't no one truck better than another they all have their mulligans.
True true. We just gotta keep our fingers crossed whenever we own whichever one we choose.
I got a 2012 FX4. so far, my blower motor resistor went out. $15 later, and done. :)
Have u owned a 2015 Chevy?
they cost way too much for these kind of issues
Consumers are the test dummys.
You need to make a 12th gen video engine specific. Those years had some of Fords main engines in these years.
5.4, 5.0, 6.2, 3.5 eb
That's a ton of different problems to look at
2009/2010 4.6 V8
Don't forget the A/C evaporator getting clogged with dust and crap, causing weak air flow. And you have to remove the dash to clean it, because a cabin air filter was omitted by the engineers.
My 2011 f150 has 211,000 km and everything including the ac works perfect.it blows so cold that I can’t even use it on full,or I’ll freeze.the heater is also amazing.it’s only ever on low,even in the winter.honestly I love my truck.no complaints about anything
@@jakejohnson9827 That's literally every Truck now. Fords retain more of the work truck feel then Dodge or Chevy
You don't have to remove the dash. Just score 3 lines of a square and flip back the tab you cut in the Evap housing and wash it out gently after applying cleaner. Push it back then Seal it with some good AC duct tape or drain pipe seal tape. Its just a plastic box and isn't thermal. The fan blows through the evap coil so its fine. Garbage design with no cabin filter. Shame on Ford
I have a 2010 FX4 5.4L with 180k.The only problems I've had to fix:
1. replace broken sunroof mechanisms (requires removing the entire headliner)
2. replace water pump and pulleys
3. lift motor to replace exhaust manifolds and extract 6 broken bolts
4. replace cam phasers, timing chains and roller rockers due to $20 broken plastic chain guides (upgraded to cast iron chain tensioners and hi-po oil pump)
5. replace ECM that was coding
6. replace rear taillights due to moisture problems
7. replace AC compressor
8. rebuild blower motor
9. replace console cover due to broken helper spring (wtf)
10. transfer case rebuild
Mods:
1. Bilstein performance shocks with 2 inch lift
2. K&N air filter
3. Borla touring exhaust
4. Cross drilled and slotted rotors
5. Tibren load springs
8 grand later...runs like a champ and sounds incredible. Fortunately I can wrench or it would have cost me double. I bought it for 24 grand with 36k miles.
Also, fuse #27 burns out often, not letting your truck start up if it’s been running for a while. Fuse is prone to BURNING out due to the bad placement of the fuse box. Easy fix to replace the fuse to get home but a fuse box relocation kit is the ticket.
Happened to me a few months ago
We just checked it and that wasnt it, took it to the dealer ship and nothing
Eventually that fuse is going to melt and short again. Ford has a tech bulletin on this and O’Reillys and some of the auto parts stores sell a kit that you can purchase and easily upgrade your fuse box with the new fuse. The old one was not enough for the current. The TSB has you moving the location of the fuse. Don’t make the mistake of taking your truck to the Ford dealer they’ll charge $1800 and tell you that it was your fuel pump.
I think it also has a problem with the heated tailgate. It is really cold when you're pushing that Ford to the side of the road lol.
I gave a thumbs up even though I'm a Ford guy because damnit thats just funny
Lets be honest when have y’all ever seen a Ford on the side of the road?
@@jakehodges4602 my 2006 GMC Topkick flatbed has seen MANY MANY MANY of them, between the Focus, Fusion, and the 12th gen F150, i cant say which one is worse
Heated tailgates are for the Ford lovin' hotties at winter bonfire parties ;)
Rear sliding glass defroster shattering back glass. My rear defroster quit working, so I pulled the fuse to be safe.
+clay1351 Thanks for the feedback!
I have a 2011 Ford F-150 no issues yet
+Cole Kitten Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
These trucks are complete junk! What a rust bucket...they are totally designed to rust fast.... between the sponge material in the bed arch to the moonroof drain tubes emptying into the cab corners.. wtf?
What are you parked under a pine tree?
Best fix: use 1A Auto to get the parts to fix that Ford good enough to send it down the road and buy a Toyota! That worked good for me.
MotownVideo Thanks for watching!
If I were to buy a 1/2 ton now I'd buy a new Tundra, old design and all. What price contentment?
I love my 2013 5.0 F-150 with 195000 miles on it
+Terry Terrill Thanks for checking us out!
are you having or had issue with your reverse cam? when you put it in reverse it goes black. If you did, what was your fix?
Awesome brother I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast as well with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
any problems?
2011 with the 5.0 with 215,000 miles. I had the TCM computer board fail and do something similar to #1 and had #4 occur at 125,000 miles. The TCM cost me around $1200 and the charcoal canister issue was $350.00. The stereo went out which sucked so I put an after market in. Starter went out at 150,000 mikes, the truck starts up so fast those teeth get worn out. Those have been my major repairs since I’ve owned it. I’ve got a friend with the smaller 2009 4.7L v8 at 350,000 miles so I’m still optimistic to get some more good miles out of mine.
The best seller and has this many problems including the transmission locking up on the freeway safety issue????
Wow How stupid is our society that's making it the best-seller??
How about just buying a Toyota or Nissan and being safe
Can i pls bring my truck to you.
I have a beautiful 2013 FX4 that I refuse to let it go but there’s always something going on 🙁
M y 2013 F150 3.5 liter Ecoboost is a piece of crap. Original owner, it has 45,000 mile on it and my timing chain has gone twice, rear window shattered when I put the defroster on, started truck the other day and noticed a shutter , I drove down the street and the rpms just dropped to nothing and the brakes went out. I limped it home and it is nothing ,but an oversized paperweight.
How about the blend door actuator? I always got problems with mine 2014 F-150. Have to replace them 2 time every year.
My 2013 is plagued with stupid issues. I've gone through 4 window regulators and 2 throttle bodies at 100k miles ...... LAME!
My 2000 f150 still runs great and drives very good. Sounds like it might be smart to just keep it for now . . .
So basically don’t buy a Ford
You could do a top 1,000 common problems list and still miss some.
Forgot the fuel pump fuse relocation crap and the rear window leaking.
My 2010 f150 does this and it pisses me off
What about the rear window randomly shattering and "ford has never heard of it". It sucks trying to hook up on a trailer in the plants
@@JoelMannerino1 happened to me
I can't believe all the issues with f150. Oh wait yes i can i had a few... not anymore....
I have had nothing but major problems with my 2014 f 150 fx 4x4. I quit buying American made vehicles in 1982. Now I remember why.i have put 10,000. Dollar's in repairs. I dumping this vehicle and going back to Toyota. Plastic heard in the air diversion system. Rack and pinion that can't be greased failed after 6 years. Transmission sensor currently been replaced. I'm well ng this to carvana and taking my losses. I can't afford to retire with an American vehicle on my property.
+kina lee Thanks for the feedback!
If you quit buying American made in 82, how is it you have a 2014?
Thought I would see the oil pressure sensor in here.
I like these! Pretty informative. Think you guys could do a video on the 2006-2013 Chevrolet Impala? That would also cover the 2014-2016 Impala Limited. Thanks!
+Evan Melton We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
Looking at at the comments I probably should have bought a Toyota!
I have a 2014 Ecoboost 3.5 twin turbo. My opinion is the motors are far to sophisticated, and they use cheap parts. Also they HVAC wiring and mechanical parts under the dash are chinese junk. Unfortunately, Ford ain't what it used to be.
Molex connectors suck. They all have them now.
NEVER BUY A FORD. I’ve been inundated one problem after the next and my truck is just 6 years old. The warranty is up and Ford refuses to fix anything despite the fact that the issues cannot have possibly been due to owner fault. Even when my engine blew at 55k they told me I was over the miles. I religiously change my oil - fully synthetic every 5k. And most of my driving is highway miles. There’s no reason why this should have happened and the people at Ford in Limerick, Pa couldn’t care less. I’ve been a loyal Ford owner through thick and thin but this one will be my last mistake.
Posts like yours make me hesitant about buying a Ford f-150. I am considering the 2011 through 2014 models, but I actually do not need a pickup truck at all. The F-150 offers front bench seating in many of its vehicles, which I prefer to having a prominent center console between the two front seats.
I checked some of the other pickups that offer front bench seating, but I ruled them out based on gas mileage, poor reviews, and/or costs.
Seriously, I am wondering to myself if I want to spend north of $15K on a 10-year-old Ford with well over 100,000 miles. I would feel less hesitant about a Toyota or certain model and year Hondas with high miles.
So I am trying to decide between an f-150, a van (which I don't want) with a hip level center console, or learning to like the center console in a Honda Pilot or Toyota Highlander.
The phasers on the cam tensioners, that’s a 5k repair, turbos leak radiator fluid, and my favorite, AC blend doors are total trash. Spent $1200 to have all for of them replaced with OEM parts and not even 6 months later, you guessed it, driver side and passenger side blend door no longer work. I will never own another for after having this FX4.
I would add coolant reservoir leak, and timing chain tensioner too. Fuel door coming loose. Might be a few more im forgetting at the moment. I put a Pioneer headunit on my 2012 XLT 3 years back. No issues ever.
Lash Adjusters
372,000 miles
2009 4.6 3v
the unicorn
Unfortunately these vehicles need good routine maintenance, mine had over 150,000 miles with only the IMS issue. Oil is the most important issue with the 5.4. Never use 5w-20, when the engine came out 5w-30 was recommended. They changed for gas mileage and it is too thin for the cam phasers when hot.
Holy shit dude, I’m so happy I found your video. I looked where the fuel canister box is at I see a plug on the end and one of the wires is cut. Gonna rig up some southern ingenuity on this wire and see if this is my problem. Keep doing what you’re doing bud you may have saved me from a rabbit chase.
BTW I watched the video on the Door lock removal, great job helped me all the way Thank you!
+John Heath Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
I think I'll hold onto my 2000 Ranger.
Ford Flippin' RANGER!!!
Danger ranger
EPAS (steering rack)
Fuse 27
Water pump
Oil pressure sensor
Don’t forget about the water pump on the 5.0s
+5_Point_Go Thanks for the feedback!
And the 1st gen 3.5 ecoboosts
What year and does it fail?
When does that need to be replaced?
I had that problem, water pump went out while on vacation. 5.0
I couldn't find the download for the rear camera issue. Is there a link you can provide? Thank you
Don’t forget about the rocker panels completely rotting out I mean there’s huge chunks or steel gone and I waxed my truck a couple times a year absolutely disgusting
Fuel filter/gauge, windshield wiper switch, rear window(after it shattered) fuel filler door, serpentine belt, water pump, rear driver side door lock motor, back-up camera shifter connectors, water hose ‘o’ rings- but after replacing all that, it’s a dam fine truck!
Oh yeah- tire pressure sensors too
+Zane Seligman Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Add a year since that comment: replaced the coolant system ‘y’ connecter, driveshaft! This had to be ‘made’ for me ; $700. And most recently: the stereo is on the fritz -- oh also, ( I’m sure I’m about to come outta pocket for this) (and it’ only did it one time) the power steering …. I don’t even know what to call it- i think it’s an electric pump(?) / it dosent operate off the belt- here’s a plus: just changed the original brakes ( pads only because the rotors were fine @ 192K miles!
But it IS paid off finally! Lol So that 3 ton mess is ALL mine!! :)
What about the timing chain tensioners going on the 5.4 tritons. The driver's side springs breaking. The front driver's side calipers locking up. The VCT solenoids getting dirty and causing misfires and it to run rough. And the 3rd brake light leaking when it rains and getting the interior soaked. All these are fairly common issues
I've put 140k miles on my 2011 f150 ecoboost, very few problems, 2 purge selonoids, regular tuneups, 4wd actuator, and a thermostat, and basic parts that just ware out like brakes and rotors. Now my old 2006 f150 was a different story.
+jg b Thanks for the feedback!
Considering buying same one with 110,000 for $17,000.00. Are you still happy with yours?
Evap canister purge valve, O2 sensor have had to be changed on my 2010. Another common fault is the AC fan blower motor resistor behind the glove box. That's had to be replaced three times. Also watch out for the 4WD hubs trying to engage due to a lack of vacuum. That can be fixed by replacing the $14 blue check valve located against the firewall.
195,000 miles on my 2012 5.0. Purge valve is the only mentioned issue I’ve had.
+dustinrolla Thanks for checking us out!
Yep me too. Y thing on coolant line. Elbow leaking under coolant resivoir. Radio went out. Blower motor. Rear defrost is out. Driver side iwe or vac line. Think rear main leaking now. 250k on it. Runs great besides these things. Ha.
I think you missed two big ones:
1) IWE/Vaccuum hubs on 4x4 trucks . Mine have gone out twice on both sides.
2) water pumps. My water bump exploded after 30K miles.
Amen i had my 4x4 vacuum replaced at 40 k and just had my water pump go out at 85k
Ford baby! 😂
Dorman Products makes a good replacement for the IWEs that don’t use vacuum. They sell revised ford ones that use vacuum too (separate part numbers)
I haven't had any problems from my 2014
How many miles on it?
2014 owner here 5.0. 108,000km. Tow a TT. Stab end links only last a few years, other than that just maintenance
@@bobmartens1089 We don't understand your weird system of measuring MILES
Rust !!!
Yeah the rocker panels on these rust REAL bad. Wish there was a cheaper alternative but once mine get too bad that it effects the integrity of the frame, or my doors no longer latch to it, I'm gonna have to cut the whole things out and weld in new ones. Or pay a shop 4 or 5 grand to do it for me. Lol
Thats what Dodge said
LOL
Hello A1 Auto: great video, however, I’m having trouble locating part 2, 3, 4, and 5. Is it under some other heading besides A1 thank you.
Blend door acuators.
Rocker panel rust for me. Also ball joints at 110k miles and AC pump.
2010 F150 5.4 Triton Ecoboost V8 101,000 miles. New spark plugs by Ford at 100K - still have a slight rough idle (no codes/check engine light) and after it sets for a day, fuel smell outside for a few minutes. Mileage intown/road is around 12-13 mpg, and has been forever. Thoughts? (I'm second owner, and have had it since around 40K miles. It does have a K&N air filter.
Ford has fallen, and it can’t get up.
My backup camera failures seem to be tied to the harness at the tailgate being moved around. Also the spedo resting at 40mph after a batter change. A whole new "cluster" I will install myself. Hate to pay the dealer anything seeing how their honesty is never actually reliable but reprogramming the cluster for my current millage, I don't know how to do. Thx for the vid. You guys are my favorite how to people. You're all going to heaven!!!
Is there a perfect vehicle out there??... Every vehicle I review on TH-cam has problems...OMG!!..come on car makers build us a perfect truck..or car
Get a Toyota
Tundra
dealerships will NOT completely fix the problem with the trans. the only way to completely fix it is to replace the leadframe with the updated version and THEN reprogram the trans.
what about leaky sunroofs and 3rd brake lights that rusts out the rockers?
what about the brake issue with many of these year trucks?
theres a lot more serious problems than the my ford touch issue...
I have 2009 with a 4.6 251.000 miles changed oil every year rain or shine. Never had any mayor issues. Has a clicking sound when starting. But runs like a champ.
It should be noted that if the purge solenoid fails it won't set the cel and the vacuum pressure can implode the gas tank and even rupture, spilling gas. Bad bad bad on Ford. Chevy does purge solenoid failures in a much healthier way.
Dont forget its a ford
It’s crazy that Ford made the first car on an assembly line. And still have such extreme magnitude quality problems in 2022. Why can’t they get it right? What’re the engineers smoking? What engineering development processes are being followed? Why wasn’t this caught in Design Validation testing? Why aren’t there quality controls on place? Why wasn’t this caught in the DFMEA/ PFMEA!?
Ford isn’t run by engineers it’s run by bean counters
Ford has been phenomenal for that transmission recall. Wouldn't call it a problem at all.
Gloves, long nails.....screen not responding to touch.....just like ANY other touch screen in ANY other vehicle.
O2 sensors? Really? So if You consider O2 sensor is being issue with f150 then OTHER cars have O2 sensors that last FOREVER right?
Purge solenoid? Charcoal canister? Im sorry but what is wrong with u? Its a ware and tare items.
The biggest PITA for me has been the optional electric sliding rear window with the defrost. The defrost has went out on me three times now - two under warranty, this last time on my dime, which I'm not going to pay for yet. Sucks, because the circuit also includes the heated mirrors, so neither system works now. And Ford won't recall this!
Such BS but it isn't a safety issue to be recalled.
Should be another category other than recall ... call it dealer eval... buyer status is a list... ultimately product improvement 👏 👌 💪 🙌 ✨
Same here mine flickers on and off and never works correctly, I eventually gave up on it because I have a bed cap and the back cab window rarely gets enough ice on it to matter.
You can access the wiring for the rear window defrost behind the rear seat on passenger side and place jumper on it. Then your heated mirrors will work. Had same problem and since I never really needed the rear window defrost, this was the best option. Think there is a You tube video showing this.
The bracket that holds the actuator cables broke on mine. May just replace with a solid rear window with no slider
My 2013 F-150 downshifted at 65 mph to first gear and damaged the engine and Ford will not fix it and they asked me for $16,500 to fix it after the recall was done. The recall did not fix the downshift.
No more Fords for me!
The big one Ford needs to pony up and fix is the phome falling and blocking the vent from moving so the defrost doesn't work 😑 😒 Step up admit it Ford this is a problem and definitely a safety issue...
best gen of f-150
these are GOAT
Just bought a 2010, and for top 5 problems, none of these sound all that bad compared to the chevy trax I got out of!
Just fyi a couple things. I've had most of these issues and here were my fixes that differ from the video. 1 misfire. If your Ecoboost is running fine at idle and low speed but misfires when you step hard on the gas you have an issue with the intercooler building moisture and oil. It's an extremely easy fix and if you TH-cam Ecoboost wheep whole you will see Many vids on this. You basically drill a very small hole in the bottom of the intercooler. After I did this it took 90 percent of the misfire away and after changing my plugs completely went away. (takes 10 minutes to do even for someone who doesn't know what there doing)
2. The touch screen not working. This is a problem with the ampid modular in the back of the head unit. They aren't cheap but easy to install a new one. Just make sure it's programmed to your truck.
3. Backup camera not working. Mine did crazy things like reversing the image to lines to a black screen. Usaly it would work when you first stay the truck then go haywire lol. Just replace the camera. Super easy but unfortunately on mine I had to replace the Ford logo as well.
i’ve had many problems with my 2011 f150 such as oil issues also with the 02 sensor and the timing chain. second time it’s went bad along with the lifters
Same here man 2011 f150 and mine is currently in the shop from my timing chain snapping while I was driving. Turns out my driver side block is bad. This is days after I replaced a 02 sensor
What engine did it had.
Upon repair of the O2 sensor did the ever explain the cause of failure? I believe mine comes and goes and that the issue is caused by sagging heat shield sitting on top of it due to ac drain dripping into/on it weighing it down. When my VCTs were repaired at 90.000 miles they said my 02 retarded and needed replaced but then said computer flashing fixed it. So i’m still chasing the ghost possibly electrical related due to water entry in 3rd brake light/XM satellite antenna leaking down to pcm/fuses etc. She’s payed for and still runs.
Mine vibrates going down the road does yours?
@@SteveWilsonWCFurniture you should have some service on the driveshaft, is really easy DIY and save some money just buy the kit at Ford or just buy grease( look for videos ) is super easy and that will fix your problem, I used to have that problem.
I thought about getting an 09-2010 f150 but depending on who’s video you watch wether is Scotty or the wizard one says those are great years and the other says to run away fast. Seems any American pick up from 08-12 are all problematic
I have a 2011 Ford F150, lariat 4 x 4, that is doing all kinds of things radio quit working clock flashes sometimes it won’t start because it’s not connecting oh and gear properly numerous numerous things
The number one issue for this generation is the faulty rear defrost heaters with the sliding window. Ford offered nothing to resolve this issue.
+Eric Anderson Thanks for the feedback!
I'm having a weird issue with my 2013 f150 platinum 5.0l it will randomly shut off and say low oil pressure it only dose it when I go into reverse and stop and it's idling weird
My 09 f150 platinum won't change where the air blows from. It was stuck on the feet so I changed the actuator, but it still wouldn't change. I have removed the actuator and moved the gears by hand to get the air out of the dash vents.
Went to your website and typed in Scanners and it "No results found for "Scanner", Check the spelling, try a more general term, or select a category below." why wouldn't it show what Scanners you sell? Or maybe you just don't sell them any longer.
Slip yoke. Literally the most common issue with these years. The thing is a pile of shit and Ford absolutely refuses to issue a recall on their faulty design.
Ford F-150 the defrost stay on and won't cut off till battery dies. Radio won’t cut off either when this happens it’s a 2013
I have a 2011 Ford F150 with a 5.0L Coyote V8 in it and with 135,000 miles on it and still going strong and it's a beast and it sounds like a beast with the Borla ATAK Catback exhaust.
+CJ Colvin Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto You're welcome brother.
It’s kind of funny when he describes the way he would process and work on a car starting not with the free item which would be to take off the negative cable and let the truck reset itself then go ahead and try the other things like the downloadable program etc. Lotta his things were kind of backwards almost like you think he’s a service advisor not a mechanic... Sorry technicians I don’t know why they thought to change the name of mechanics but I never noticed it before that they do not say mechanic on a lot of workouts and say say technician
Sync system failure, clock flashing only, i've seen a lot of that, im one of those
What did you do to fix that issue? Same thing on my 11 5.0
Yes me too my 2013 F-150 has problems with Bluetooth connecting to my phone it randomly skips songs I have to disconnect and reconnect all the time it’s really annoying.
Yea me to did you just get a aftermarket radio?
What did you do?
My radio just totally went out
Radio went put clock blinks
This is my favorite verhicle problem guy to watch.
Only problems I have had with my 2012 Ecoboost are coolant line leaks ( both roughly around 125-135k miles where they connect to the overflow tank as well as the turbos), and misfires from worn plugs( between 80-100k each time) Currently A 189k and still running good. Tow a sxs up the mountain quite a bit and am on the throttle all the time too. Great truck.
My coolant exploded on me like a week ago and had transmission sensor problems and bad oil pump and new steering rack
For my 2013 5.0 ford
I have a 2013 5.0. Just search Y connecter coolant hose and
O rings! Ford could not fix it in three attempts. I did it myself off a TH-cam video and ordered the parts off Amazon. Hasn’t leaked since😎
hey i have a 2012 ecoboost 3.5, i got last summer, and my front right brake was dragging when i got it.
i replaced caliber and rotary but later that day it started dragging again.
i changed severai times trying to find problems as i went because the diagnostic machines said nothing was wrong at dealerships (went to 3 in 3 different states while working).
after several miserable weeks of this i was finnaly told by a guy on the streets that it was the soft rubber hose going from brake line to brake caliber.
i replaced both for around $40 and solved the problem.
now its working fine and pulls like a ox.
How about the gas pump fuse. Mine keeps burning, corroding....why? Engine just won't start.
i have ford 2012 xlt v8 5.0, i have noise in water pump like a rubing sound?
I have the misfire problem but it only happens in cold weather anyone else have this problem when the outside temp is warmer outside it runs fine I'm thinking it's warn plugs
Just replaced my rear view camera with 1a product which solved the issue. and now i see this. That touch screen is a major flaw also.
+Men, Toys, and Outdoors Thank you for your order! We'd love to hear about your experience. Here's a link to leave us a review on Google: goo.gl/i5JFNY
Modern vehicles and their plethora of electronic sensors & gadgets are HELLA fun, don’t get me wrong, but… also just more stuff to go wrong and keep you coming back to the dealer / shop. Time, money, effort, focus lost.
This is why I still drive my 2003 F150. 😁
What about the IWE actuators on 4wd models?
Is your $100 backup camera not working? That's an easy fix! Just replace the $1500 head unit before checking the camera - A1Auto
Lead frame recall on 2013 5.0 covered under 150k miles under warranty $1700 job if you miss the 150k mile cutoff. oil pressure sending unit or sensor faulty at 175k miles. I had the purge valve issue. Otherwise, that 5.0 coyote engine is a beast
Do you have to have a problem with transmission to have lead frame replaced under warranty or is it covered regardless?
Nailed it. Just replaced the oil pickup sensor at 182,000
if anyone having issues withe 4x4 make sure to check that the vacuum hub, most of these get dirt and or sand really easy and they will not open as the are suppose to. Transfer case is hard for it fail its more than likely tht is something as simple as the vacuum hub
Don't forget the issue with factory spark plugs gapping causing misfires too.
so what is the correction for this i have misfire only in park soon as i put it in drive it goes away
2013 F 150 4x4 STX 5.0 with 3.73 gears. 225,000 miles and still going for now. Did replace transmission at 180,000 miles due to weekly towing of heavy boat. Normal maintenance other than that. I know the time is near for a new truck. New truck prices just blow me away. I wonder what a new 5.0 motor would cost? If it's even worth it?
Larry Sigers, engine isn’t that costly when you think of a new truck. $7000-ish. Maybe get it rebuilt.
My 2014 FX4 has 245,000 km and aside from oil/fuel/windshield/washer fluid/wiper blades/tires it’s all original. Never had any of these issues. It’s now getting everything flushed, new brakes and struts, new filters, hoses & spark plugs and I think I’m swapping gears from 3.73 to 3.31/3.08 since I do mainly highway driving at a set speed.
5k easily, but that's a hell of a lot less expensive than a new truck.
Your boat is holding water under the deck. Get rid of the boat, not the Ford
the Dealesship spent two days and could not find the problem and the engine light and a mechanic's key came out on the truck's screen