Transmission Flush Vs. Fluid Change and Service
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มี.ค. 2024
- You may have stumbled upon the opinion out there that getting a transmission flush for your car will actually make it worse and end up costing you $1000's!
Well it's only partially true.
In this video we explain what exactly a transmission flush is, when it may be appropriate, and most importantly, that there is a much better way to maintain your car's transmission. Stick with us until the end to learn how you can keep your transmission running at top shape for much less than the dealer wants you to think.
Transmission Fluid Spill Saver: amzn.to/3USHexN
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I do a drain and fill on the pan. Then disconnect cooler line, start engine, capture two liters of old fluid that is being pumped out by the transmission. Stop engine, refill with two liters. Repeat, till fluid runs clean. Reconnect cooler line. Check level. Add if needed. Now you have completed a full fluid flush, without endangering the transmission. You are welcome.
I do the same. After 4 drains, assuming 50 % each drain, the fresh fluid will be 50, 75, 87.5, 93.75 %.
@@franktarawa1300 Two liters isn't anywhere near 50%.
I didn't mention liters, only percentages@@wryanddry2266
@@wryanddry2266 someone cant read.
Yes. No high pressure or detergents this way. I just let it run and keeping pouring fluid into the dipstick hole.
This is great. You did an excellent job laying this issue to rest. Thank you. I'm a changer (fluid AND filter). I avoid the flushes.
Your recommendation is exactly what I do and I change the fluid out every 30,000 miles. It’s an older Honda Ridgeline 2010. I also installed an in-line filter going to the transmission to help keep the dirt out of the transmission and the fluid clean. So far I’ve never had a transmission fail, and I have been driving for 50 plus years. I still do all my own service work being a mechanic I am.
Very well said. Just change it regularly and it always remain clean.
If you want your trans to last 200K +, get the trans serviced, not flushed. I learned this from experience !
or get manual, it will last 300 without any service :D
Thank you this clears up a lot of uncertainty I've got two vehicles over 100,000 miles and I was concerned if a fluid change would make it worse but it doesn't seem like it so I'll give it a shot
as a mechanic I agree entirely with your recs. In fact that is what I generally do. If the transmission has never been serviced and has high miles say over 150 K I do it every other or every third oil change with 5000 miles as my normal oil change interval. When it becomes red which usually takes 4-5 changes I ease back to about every 4th or 5th oil change.
So I got a car with 155,000 miles and never change the fluid. Never tow with it can I change the fluid ?
@@albertomartinez3556 Do it by exchanging two 2 -2.5qt cycles through draining the pan at a time for 5 qts. Then wait 10-15K. Do that again 3-4 more times. Then maybe do a full forward flush from the cooler line. You want to give it time to dissolve any gunk without causing slippage.
I have an 2018 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 got my 1st BG Transmission Fliud Service at 90k they add Chemical to old fluid and remove then add new Fluid, just got my 2nd BG Product Fluid Flush and Removed at 136k will I be ok
@@Josh_3165Same thing with me
This is exactly what I did with my Honda Accord where previous degenerate owner never changed transmission fluid. I got the car when it had 180k miles on it. First time the drained fluid looked like water from a puddle. I immediately drained 3.5 qts, took it for a spin for 20 miles, then drained again. I did 6 fluid changes on total within the next 10K miles to bring it to decent shape. Now it is bright red and I am planning to drain and fill 3-3.5 qts every 3 oil changes or about 10K miles.
This is a great video, and I agree with your thinking. Now with that said - there are too many people out there, that don't even change their oil when they should, so trying to get them to change the trans fluid - may be asking too much. But for those that DO maintain their cars, the fluid change idea makes a great deal of sense. It's what I have been doing for the last 20+ years, and I've no problems or issues. Thanks for this video!
I know everyone has diff taste thoughts on this, but just my anecdotal experiences working in big dealers and small dealers as a tech, more often than not you drive it in, do the trans service, and have to push it out.
Best sensible advice ive heard in a long time - thanks
How I did my fluid change last time (on two cars) was to pull a line from the trans cooler, face the hose down towards a bucket, pull the dipstick (make sure I have a case if trans fluid), get a funnel in the dipstick tube, start the car and fill through the dipstick tube as its dumping the old fluid in the bucket. Keep going until the fluid looks clean, shut off the car, reconnect the hose to the cooler, start the car check the level, done. It took at least 5 but less than 10qts to do it. That was a few years and many miles ago. Car runs like a champ. The old fluid was black. Its risky this way, but if prepare everything beforehand, its pretty easy.
It is a whole different ball-game today... I have been in the business for almost 50 years now!!!
You r 100 percent correct. I did repeated drains and fills on 330000 km lexus es330 4 times with 1000 km in between, and it went great
Awesome video! I have a F250 super duty and opted for the filter change and refill, which changes about half of the trans fluid and fresh filter. I get to inspect and clean the pan and magnet so I can see what is happening in the trans. A little messy but I have had good luck with this. I can do everything myself so the cost is not as big of a deal.
My F150 has 260,000 miles - same engine and trans. Regular oil changes, and drain, filter and fills in the trans every few years. Last time I did a disconnected cooler line and 'flushed' the fluid and refilled as necessary. Thanks
This advice is spot on! ☝👍
As a mechanic I agree. I recommend a drain and fill and filter change if applicable. Also, I know with most cars today checking the fluid is sometimes nearly impossible. Jeep Cherokee hardest. But checking it and topping it off is very important. If just topping the trans off, you can use a Univeral fluid as long it recommended for your trans. When you are changing the fluid, I recommend buying the fluid from the dealer or getting a very good brand, example Idemitsu, liqui moly, pentosin, zF, motul, Valvoline, Castrol, Enso. Make sure you get the correct type for your vehicle. That is very important.
%100 Agree. I did that with my 2005 Jaguar XJ8 and after 367,000. care free miles she was traded.
You are right that keeping the oil fresh in the first place eliminates all the issues associated with a massive oil change later in the transmission's life.
I do what you recommend, changing the oil at a similar mileage interval to that which you recommend, but I take it one step further. When it's time to change the oil, I drain and refill a few times in a row over the course of a few days of normal driving (driving a fair bit in-between changes is necessary to re-mix the oil, which is necessary for this method to work). I do it at least four times, but usually five, and sometimes even six. On the vehicles I've had, only 1/3 of the oil can be drained at one time. That means that with just one drain-and-refill cycle, 2/3 of the old oil remains, but the proportion of truly "old" oil that remains gets diluted down to a lesser value with each additional change. If you drain and refill 1/3 of the oil five times in a row over the course of at least that many days of normal driving, the proportion of old oil remaining is only 0.13. If you do this six times in succession instead of five, the proportion of old oil remaining is only 0.09. A lot of oil is wasted with this method and so the cost is pretty high, but with shop prices being what they are, it's still more economical than paying for a flush, and the results are comparable, in terms of how much old oil actually remains when the process is done (ask your shop for the real details and you will see that the flushing process is far short of 100-percent complete). The thoroughness of the oil-change process with this method is so good that I feel comfortable stretching my oil-change interval to 40,000 miles. The oil still looks like new when after another 40,000 miles has gone by and "it's time" for another change.
If it sounds like a lot of work to do a few changes in a row, here's a time-saving tip that makes the job go really fast. Get two identical one-gallon jugs (one of the jugs is for measuring new oil so it must be spotlessly clean). Take the drained oil from your collection pan and pour it into one of those jugs. Now put the two jugs side by side and fill the other jug the identical amount with new oil (for jugs made of colored plastic, it helps to have a bright light to shine through and reveal the oil level more clearly). Now you have made sure that the volume of oil you will add is exactly the same as the volume that was drained, so there's no need for the usual trial and error when re-filling. In this way, your actual hands-on labor time for the entire drain-and-refill process is only about 5 minutes (I usually leave the transmission draining overnight or even much longer since it will keep dripping forever and the longer it drips, the larger the amount that gets drained, but that isn't part of your work time). If you drain more than a gallon of oil from your transmission, use the jug-comparison method to exactly measure how much oil is needed beyond that first gallon.
This method requires that you have a drain plug, which is why I install my own drain plug on any transmission that doesn't already have one. For a transmission with a steel pan, I cut a pipe coupling in half and braze it to the bottom of the pan (first remove the layer of galvanizing from the location where the drain plug will go, and then paint that area when you are done so it doesn't rust). The actual plug is just a standard pipe plug.
By the way, the guys who get more complete changes by disconnecting a cooling line and adding additional oil "on the fly" to keep from accidentally running too low while the transmission parts are spinning have got the right idea, but I prefer my method because the amount of labor and effort is virtually zero.
I edited this post regarding the results of the math, since the math wasn't quite as straightforward as I had first thought.
Cool. I do a single ATF drain and fill every 30k miles.I also do rear diff and TC every 30k as well. My 2006 Matrix 4WD has over 221,000 miles and shifts great.
I change the fluid and filter every two years in my van and pickup regardless of mileage. It usually works out to 25-35k miles. In the pickup I adjust the bands and replace the check valve at the same time. I've only needed to replace a transmission once and that was in a 1996 Dodge pickup with 186,000 miles. Dodge transmissions were notorious for failing in those trucks.
I just do a fluid change with a filter change. 163,000 miles on my transmission without any problems. I get my transmission serviced every 30,000 miles or 4yrs.
Thankyou so much ... I was actually going to get my transmission done by service i think i will do it myself instead
I wish my 2020 Toyota Corolla XSE was as easy to change Transmission fluid as it is to change oil. Good points and advice
Just did it in my 2018 RAV4. Get vinyl tubing from HomeDepot, big funnel, 2 brass hose couplers, and 6 mini hose clamps for maybe $15. Jack and level the car, run the ATF cooler lines into a bucket, rig up a stable funnel setup (the hardest part) into the drivers wheel well WS fill plug. Uncap all your bottles, drain the pan, remove the fill plastic tube, replug the pan completely with the plastic tube also, refill the pan fully with WS ATF, start the engine, keep refilling the funnel until the fluid is bright red, turn off the car. Check the level at temp over 97F. Done
A home flush uses no pressure or detergents but it does change more than 90% of the fluid. I've done this for decades. The same method can be done on the power steering system also.
Best way is a "forward fluid exchange". Run the cooler return line to a bucket with a hose. Rig up a secure funnel into the trans fill hole. Drain the pan and refill the same amount from the funnel. Start the car, start dumping in new fluid, click through the gears 3 seconds each, go until it shifts instantly from brown to red. Turn off the key immediately. Done. Hardest part is getting the car up high enough to drain the pan, while keeping it level for the refill and rigging up a stable and strong funnel system that won't cause a panic during the procedure.
My Mother when I was a kid had her transmission flushed with less than 60k on the car , and short there after the transmission started having issues , before that the transmission worked perfectly..
Later I went to college and became a Heavy duty tech , I personally would never flush a transmission , do a service , change the filter and oil every 60K and you should be nearly trouble free under normal driving conditions , 40/50K if under more extreme conditions like trailer hailing or lots of city only driving in hot environments ... JMO an experience .
Yup so true , I have a Subaru CVT and I do them every 45k just a drail and refill no flush just a d&refill and no problems so far. If I do this every 45k so the old and new mix good and keeps it moving good. Plus I use Amsoil CVT so it good fluid.
If you do mostly city driving in traffic service it at 25-30k mostly freeway 50k (assuming you are not driving in traffic).
Hello young man
I own a 2007 tundra 5.7 liter, very bad mpg but I love my truck. I need my truck for towing my 22 ft fishing boat every summer. It has 189500 miles on it. She runs perfect, the whole power train. I have been doing the drained and refilled for years. I think I probably over doing it because I perform that task every year just before towing season.
Enjoy your video, very educational. Thank you, by the way this is John Chan the fisherman
Just do it 5 years or evey 30kMiles.
Toyota Fan here.
@macegarage9603 hi
Yes sir, at the moment my wife and I own 2007 tundra, 2013 rx350, 2018 nx300, 2023 gr86, and last but not least 2007 rx350, and a toy a 22 ft boat with a 2006 Suzuki 175 hp four strokes. Yup like and trust toyt. Used to own many different types of cars. Just to name a few EvoX, c7 vett, 911 cs4, mustang RTR....ext.
@@user-ps9zk3wf8b amazing man , thanks for sharing.!
@@user-ps9zk3wf8b aren't they almost superb in comfort as well as reliable daily driving car. (Excluding 86 i guess)
I'm not a type of guy always looking for power(having enough HP are just good to me), going to point A to B is enough from my point of view.
I just do a transmission fluid drain, replace the transmission filter, clean the inside of the transmission pan, install a new pan gasket, torque the bolts to the appropriate specs and refill the transmission with the appropriate amount and type of fluid bought at the actual dealership. I do this every 50k-60k miles and typically this allows the transmission to last 300k-400k miles without any issues. I would NEVER have a transmission "flushed" for the exact reasons you mentioned. It's just not worth the risk. If you can't change the fluid yourself just ask a shop to change it and specify you do NOT want it flushed.
There is a lot misinformation about the term flush, and does mean the same thing. Today the correct term is fluid exchange. No flushing, back pressure, or high pressure, and no chemicals used.
@@tssci6774 That's good to hear, but I still prefer to do it myself and save some money.
@Prepare2Survive I do the fluid exchange myself, doesn't require a machine, and I get 95% replacement and saves $200 in labor.
@@tssci6774 Are you also replacing the filter or are you just replacing the fluid?
@@tssci6774 At what mileage did you do a fluid exchange? Do you have the sealed transmission type?
Just did the fluid replacement on my 2010 Ford Escape per the manual. Recommended at 103k miles. Did mine at 136k. Easy. 1 drain plug. No filter replacement.
Drain, fill, drive. Drain, fill, drive. Drain, final fill. Only half the fluid drains, ~4.5 quarts. Took 14 quarts to complete. Leaves you with ~89٪ new fluid in there. 🤠
You still have an old filter with dirt from 136k miles.
HEY, good advise, really good idea !
@@blackericdenice yes, but he said the Escape does not have a filter ? if so no need
@@blackericdenice confirmed google it, escape doesnt have a trans filter
@@AdrianJayeOnline It has a filter, You have to take the transmission apart to change it.
On TH-cam it has been shown to remove hoses from transmission cooler . One end into new fluid that is suctioned up to flush out the old from the other , obviously vehicle running being normal pressure . To replace all fluid at one time , not the " drain and fill " , how many times . And not the flush machine that has too much pressure
The term transmission flush machine or services is no longer accurate. Its been over 20 years since the industry shifted away from high pressure, chemical back flush services. Today these machines or service are referred to fluid exchange service. They merely capture the normally flowing fluid through the cooler, and return the same amount of clean fluid. Sometimes they may back flush the cooler, but that is all. For a 9qt transmission, it will take about 11 qts to fully exchange the fluid. I bought a 2012 Chevy with 90k, they did not do a service at 45k. It was black and burnt, oul analysis showed high wear metals and insolubles, and start to have some driveability issues. I did a complete fluid exchange. All issues stopped, did another exchange at 140k. At 190k miles still running great. I agree with a 30k spill and fill. If the filter and sump( no pan) is unserviceable, I recommend full exchanges or an external inline filter with magnets built in and magnetic fill plugs. If the transmission is already slipping, as the first commentor reported, than a full exchange is not recommended, instead 2-3 drain/fills with with a few thousand miles in between. Recently subscribed, good videos.
Have an old Ford 4-speed automatic reverse is slipping and won't move
Any suggestions other than tearing it down
@@jamesmonahan3904 a fluid exchange/service wont fix a slipping trans. there might be a mechanical problem. The only way a fluid issue that can cause that is lack of fluid
I just did a hybrid fluid change yesterday on an Escape. No cooler lines or torque converter exist so I expect most of the fluid comes out. Vehicle gets a lot of mileage so I should be getting at it more often.
My favorite transmission fact is the Ford power shift gearbox. When mine stopped working I was really confused, because there was no dipstick to check the fluid. Then I looked it up and they said it was a lifetime sealed transmission. This is technically true considering the transmission never got to a mileage where you would flush it before it stopped working. Thanks ford.
Yeah I hate the lifetime BS. I drained my fluid at 150k miles and it was darker than an eclipse. Put new fluid and i immediately noticed a difference
liked and subscribed, very sensible advise, (BMW owner here)
thank you I was about to go get my transmission flushed on my mustang orange fury I would of been pissed 😂😂 thank you 💯
I perform a fluid change yearly on my 2012 Ford Escape. Four quarts drain out and I refill it. It has 118,000 miles and will probably last me as long as I want to keep it. BTW the owners manual says the filter can only be accessed by disassembling the transmission.
Absolutely I agree whole heartedly just change the fluid replace the filter. If you can never do a flush it’s just not worth it unless you’re willing to risk it.
I gotta flush done on my Chevy Malibu at 75,000. That was the recommended and it works fine.
I have a use grand caravan it says to get it done at 120,000 that’s where it’s at places want to say. Suck out all the transmission fluid will charge you 300 bucks. No thanks just drain replace some fluid replaced the filter wash out the pan call it a day
The transmission filter is designed for only removing large pieces of metal. Adding two large magnets to the trans pan solves this. Plus add some lubricant like CERTEC for oil, or any big brand lubricant Marvel Mystery Fluid in a small amount, as an additional lubricity that translates to smoother noticable performance, especially in 4 wheel drive trans gear oil . Best wishes and you can get ALL THE OLD FLUID OUT, if up by the radiator you disconnect one of the two trans hoses ,only one will pump out old Fluid when turned on, previous pour new fluid in 2 quarts and when you see the new red fluid the old is entirely out.
You are right. I have always done it this way with no problems. Same with brake fliuld change what is in the reservoir once a year and have no problems.
Won't work with brake fluid. What's in the brake lines stays in the brake lines. Brake fluid does not circulate. You need to bleed them to get fresh fluid in the lines. Its the only way. You're wasting your time.
@@nickv4073 an illiterate opinion! I'm an ASE brake tech and have been doing it on my car for years. Are you just guessing or did some one tell you it doesn't move.
@@Number6_ Dude, just Google "Does Brake Fluid Circulate". I guess you missed that day at ASE school.
@@Number6_ Dude, just Google "Does brake fluid circulate". Its really that simple.
@@Number6_ Just do an internet search "Does Brake Fluid Circulate?" I have a hard time believing you're an ASE Certified Tech since you don't even know the basics of how the brake system works..
If you can do a non flush fluid change every other year, that will do much for that transmission then you can flush it out at around 90 to 100,000 mi and the transmission will be just fine. Also use a pint of lube guard that product will do a lot for keeping a transmission clean and functioning for well beyond a normal service life. I've used lube guard for many years in my Oldsmobile Alero with a 4T 60 automatic transmission and it's still going strong with 337,000 mi on it.
On my 06 Odyssey minivan 3.3 quarts will come out. Just put the new oil down the tranny dip stick tube. The tube is small. A Dollar General turkey baster is a good funnel.
Do with each engine oil change until discarded oil is clean.
I have to replace 2 Ox Sensors on my 2014 Town and country van. They are both upstream. I guess I should replace the downstream sensors at the same time? When you replace the transmission filter and oil, should you do a flush of it???
I replaced filter and fluid on my 2014 Corolla cvt. Running like a champ
ok, but did you do it yourself or did you take it to the Toyota Dealer and have it flushed? or did they do a drain and fill only? I ask because I have a 2016 Corolla with a CVT and I am at 55K and trying to decide if I should do a drain and refill or take it to Toyota for the flush. be specific!
I have a 2014 corola cvt pretty sure they have a mesh filter so pointless changing it and also risking the pan leaking in the future. It can do your head in a bit whats the best to do and decided drain and fill every so often like this guy suggests suits me. Just keep in mind if you heat the fluid up it expands and will affect your amount to put back in.
Very good video. This is the way I do it what do you think?
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2017. My transmission holds 7.5 qts. of tranny fluid. When I drain the pan I remove about 3.5qts of fluid. Less than 1/2 the fluid. Make sure you purchase the correct fluid for your vehicle. I drain the fluid from the pan and refill it to the correct level. I now run the engine and shift threw he fears P-R-N-D forward and back for about 7 seconds in each position. After 50 seconds shut off the engine. The new fluid you put in should be in the tranny and torque converter and the old fluid in the pan. I drain the pan again a second time to remove the old fluid. Now refill to the correct level. Your done and I replaced over 90% of my fluid. I purchase 8 qts of tranny fluid for about $90. My tranny has new fluid in it and should last a lot longer. Recommend doing this between 30-40k miles. I hope this helps you out there.
If you wanna do a drain and fill occasionally and your car has an ATF dipstick.
1. Go buy a cheap fluid transfer pump from harbor freight ($7)
2. Suck it out through the dipstick into an empty oil bottle (measure every drop and compensate for the fluid in the transfer hose not much)
3. Refill EXACTLY what you took out
Easiest and cheapest way for a smooth transmission and maintenance.
Also only use OEM fluid (definitely for honda) but never cheap out on one of the most expensive parts of your car
Why not draining and topping instead of this?
@@MrCoincoin21 I've done both, and I'll never go back to draining from the plug. This way saves time, it's easier, and it's more precise measuring liquid drained
@@Grant849 You don't have to measure. The dipstick has min and max marks.
@@percyfaith11 if it's factory fluid levels, you should measure what you take out and replace exactly that. But for sure tho, measure with the dipstick afterwards.
The key to understanding an ATF change is the *torque converter.*
Unlike your engine and its oil, dropping and draining an AT oil pan does not drain the torque converter, which constantly contains several quarts of ATF. There is no way to drain them separately.
Slowly replacing the fluid by way of the cooling lines with the engine running and the car in DRIVE is a proper way to do it, but you can't do this at home, you need specialized equipment, and nobody seems to offer this anymore.
Besides, ATF simply does not wear out the way engine oil does. Engine oil is exposed to high temperature combustion, which requires it to be changed regularly because this breaks down the oil at a molecular level.
ATF does not do this, it's just hydraulic oil like brake fluid or power steering fluid. And contrary to popular belief, brake and steering fluids do NOT need to be changed regularly. And neither does ATF (at least not nearly as often as engine oil).
Don't get me started on CVTs, the biggest scam ever perpetrated by car manufacturers. They are sealed not because they are maintenance free, but because the car makers want them to wear out in less than 75K so you'll just buy a new car.
Seriously. You are going to see them disappear and a whole bunch of class-action lawsuits filed..
He's right. Drain & fill every 30,000 miles.
I do my all my transmission services at 30,000 miles. I am not apposed to flushes but as you say they are costly.
Drain and fill. And my car has a drain bolt, to make it SUPER easy... so many don't.
What do you think about change a Non-OEM transmission fluid? Is mixing Old OEM transmission with new Non OEM transmission good? Or could it cause any harm?
I did a fluid flush at the Toyota dealership for my Scion XB at about 140k miles. It shifts great. I’ve been told Toyota transmissions aren’t as crappy as GM or Ford transmissions that will fail if a flush is done after 100k miles.
I noticed that when I change my oil, seems as if a good percentage of oil stays in the engine.
Am on my 3rd 50 mile oil change/flush and its still coming out very dark
My 2016 Land Rover discovery D4 has just hit 25,500 miles. I had a transmission fluid change recently. I also had both front and rear axle and transfer case oil change, over the top ? who me ??
This is my current quandary. Bought a 2010 Volvo V70 (FWD) w/187k miles on it and don't know any history on the transmission maintenance. The car had very good maintenance since new and only at the Volvo dealer. It seems to shift fine but I have noticed that it sometimes seems to downshift slowly when coming to a stop. After stopping one or two seconds it "bumps" like maybe it finally got into the lowest gear to start again. My first inclination is it might be low on fluid but I'm too old to check myself anymore. With the high mileage I'm leaning towards just living with it until it gets worse and then rebuilding it but still curious if a fluid change would kill the trans or not.
I agree!!
Can i ask a question?
Normaly maybe 30k miles will be achieved by 2 or 3 years for someone who use a car regularly to work or other daily activity
But if you have a car that not being used regularly, maybe it only achieved 5 or 6k miles a year. Is it okay to change automatic transmission fluid once in 5 - 6 years?
Or maybe there a certain maximum time interval that you should change that fluid beside from the car mileage like engine oil (which i know is 12 month that should be changed even the car is not reached certain mileage like 3 - 4 miles a year)
Drain / Fill each year. Never put less than 200K on a car and no transmission problems.
I bought a used Chevy avalanche 2005 and there was nothing wrong with the transmission but I went to a mechanic after buying it telling them to check what it might need and do an oil change and they recommended a flush. I did not understand why they recommended that but I thought they were the mechanics and they know better so I had it done. Short time afterwards my transmission blown. What recourse against an experienced mechanic shop do I have in suing them for the cost of a whole new transmission I had to buy? Thank you
95 Bronco, pull my fishing boat, and 4wheeler/ trailer. Do a fluid/filter change every spring. 215k ,trans works like new.
Hi guys my vw jetta has coolant mixed with transmission DSG oil and vice versa. please suggest me
1. Reason for mixing coolant and transmission fluid ?
2. How to drain water/ coolant entirely from transmission system before adding new transmission oil .
3. Shall I change Transmission oil cooler along with ?
How much of the fluid will be replaced in a manual transmission fluid change?
I do a "fluid exchange" on my Hyundai Sonata every 10,000 miles since I bought her new in 2009 I just did it again at 110,000 miles. It shifts like the day I bought it. I do this by sucking out as much fluid as I can through the dipstick tube using a simple $10 pump from Harbor Freight. About a gallon comes out and I use a bucket to capture the old fluid. The I replace it with the new fluid and use the empty container for the old fluid and to be recycled or disposed of properly. Sometimes I will repeat this after only 500 miles if I feel the fluid is not as clean as I would like. It looks so clean on the dipstick I sometimes need a flashlight. It always smells like it just came out of the bottle. The fluid in the bucket does tend to look dirty, mostly probable clutch wear but does not smell bad or burnt. When I finally have to retire her I do not know what I am going to do. Most cars are now made with SEALED transmissions. I am sure there is a way I can still service it and will make sure before I choose my next vehicle that I can indeed do it on the make and model. Unfortunately you can NOT get all the fluid out because it is in the torque converter but like the man said, since you are servicing it so often it still will be much cleaner than if you didn't change it at all. In my case I do it every 10k miles instead of 30k as he recommended. I use Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle transmission fluid which is only about $25 at wall-mart. Even at every 10k miles that is a far cry from a new transmission you will get raped on at a repair shop and lucky if they even fix it correctly. If you drive like I do then the transmission will should last the life of the car. Bought new on June 1, 2009 my Hyundai Sonata has only had an AC compressor last year and it actually was only the field coil in the clutch. It took me only a little over an hour to replace the compressor, vacuum the system and recharge it.
thanks
Drain and fill is a waste if you are not dropping the pan and replacing the filter and cleaning the magnets.
I wish I knew this earlier. I'm at about 65k in my F150 and I would've been doing this all along if I did. What do you suggest for someone in my position? Should I get the flush now and then make sure I change the fluid every 30k? Or just change the fluid now and risk it?
Just change the fluid at home drain it add new drive it then drain it again repeat 3 times this will circulate the trapped old oil out until you end up with clean fluid
As a professional mechanic, i agree with most of you said, but...all the transmission flush machines i have used use the transmissions own pressure, and DO NOT introduce their own higher pressure. Good video tho!
The best practice is to do a trans service every 30k miles. You will drain approx. 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid the first drain, then drive 500-1000 miles, do a second drain, then repeat a 3rd time. By then you will have about 85% newer fluid in, then drive it 30k, then repeat. Somewhere in there replace the filter by say 90k as well. Of course if you are buying a used vehicle with 60-90k on it to begin with, and have no service records, assume the fluid was NOT changed and do it asap before the fluid gets too dirty & causes issues past 100k. Once the trans starts having issues, doing the fluid drains/fills most likely won't fix those issues, sadly.
Many people forget there’s a transmission filter especially on Honda 5 speed autos
How in the heck do you perform a change on a Saturn Aura 4cyl. & How many quarts does it even hold when Cold ?? Got me stumped !! 🤔
I HAVE A PROBLEM. After changing my fluid and filter I found part of a ring that broke. I’m thinking the rest is still in place. So I go to a transmission shop and was told there’s no way to just replace that ring and that I need a full rebuild. Is this true? And would it be better to get a used trans? ‘99 Dakota 5.2L.
Thanks
I have a 2020 honda civic turbo 80000 miles never changed or flushed which should I do
2018 F150 with the 2.7 has no drain plug. Have to drop the pan from what I understand.
Yep, spill and fill every 30k to 40k is what I do.. And don't overfill when putting back in the new stuff.
All 5 vehicles I have ever bought are high mileage (80K+). I don't dare flush as don't know what service history is, and if do, I don't trust.
Oil change, oil filter change, transmission fluid change every single time. Often times engine air filter and cavin air filter. Newest car (2022 Prius with 118K miles) I did my first radiator fluid change. Luckily did in garage, not driveway because fluid gets EVERYWHERE even with large pan, stuffs so hazardous to environment.
If I ever get a brand new vehicle, because I only do service myself unless I absolutely can't like when needed a flex plate replaced in on minivan, ill likely still just do changes, unless learn to do flush myself. I would prefer flush if brand new vehicle.
I just dump the sump, 3.7 quarts at 15,000 mile intervals. She’s happy
First thing first it’s always better to change your oils on time on a regular basis. Cheaper and lasts longer
What about changing a transmission filter? How often do you recommend to replace it?
The thinking I have read of changing fluid every 30000-40000 miles and I think smart to change filter at same time .
On CVT even earlier
Just drain and refill every 30,000 miles and you're golden.
How about a cvt?
If car industry says you don’t need to service your transmission, it’s because they measure a car’s life around 160k miles. Adding trans service would increase costs during this time making it more expensive to buy. If your transmission breaks down after 160k, it would cost so much you would prefer buying a new car. That’s what you have to understand under “lifetime lube” and sealed transmission.
If you want your car to live further, do drain your transmission every 30k miles.
Bought my Ram 4x new. First flushed (18qts) then pan drop to replace (2) ea filters at 35k. Flush only at 85k then a filter only at 115k. Labor is $125 @ dealer, fluid is $300 give r take. I use Amsoil so it'll be at a higher cost than most because its 3x the product compared to others. You can't get it at auto zone 😅. Flushing + filter change on anything new is absolutely necessary.
The first flush is crucial, You don't need nor do you get chemicals added during the work unless you request it.The fluid is the cleaner, the tech simply heats the fluids while sending the old stuff through an additional filter sys. Once it's heated, it continually flows for 15 min or so. The new fluid is introduced to the machine and then set to capture. It pulls 18 out, then pumps 18 in (my truck)
I'm at 175k now, and I'll do a flush + filter this week.
It'll never need another flush or filter again after that. DO NOT flush a system with 80/100k on it, filter yes, flush no. Also, idk what pan holds up to 50% of fluid, mines huge and a pan drop requires 2qrts to refill. No auto have i ever touched held more tha few quarts with a pan drop only.This isint an attempt to sell Am/ soil it's simply my experience over 45 years of doing it. Don't forget about those differentials or if you have one,(4x only) transfer case!!
Never flush drain and fill using a full synthetic compatible fluid Toyotas have magnets in them that need to be cleaned off and filter replaced flush is ok but you still need to change filter and clean magnets
I always just do a fluid dran and fill. And do it every 50,000 with full synthetic
I do my transmission FLUSH every 30,000 miles as recommended in my service manual. My transmission is a CVT. I take it to the dealership because if anything happens I don't want to void any warranties. The dealership , although more expensive is more qualified to do a flush than an average shop. It costs me 220$. It is also a low pressure flush. They use 2 psi.
Change at 30,000 miles 3 times. That is drain and replace 3+ quarts, run the car change again, and again.
Change the filter and drain and refill the fluid 300 miles. Change the fluid 3 times.
I have gone back and forth on this. My vehicle has 230,000 miles, likely never had transmission changed. I talked to the dealership and they said NO, NEVER change it if it hasn't been changed regularly. I clarified even change vs flush and they said DO NOT even change it, top it off and leave it for the life of the vehicle unless you're prepared to buy a new transmission. And if that's possible, then just buy a new transmission and wait for the current one to fail and hope you're not far from home
After being neglected for so long, there is alot of metallic particulates in suspension of the fluid. This adds friction and is oddly allowing it to continue to function, while simultaneously ensuring it's demise.
If you drop that old fluid, and change it with clean fluid, when the fluid gets hot and thin, the trans will likely begin to slip badly.
For the future, keep in mind that a trans service is CHEAP, but trans rebuild or replacement is VERY EXPENSIVE.
If you take care of them (30k service) they will last 3-400k, but if never serviced, often fail between 150-200k.
It's impressive that you have over 200k on yours and that is the reasoning behind their advice.
Pan drop, fluid and filter change every 40k. Lower that to 25k if towing a lot.
You seem to be talking about regular transmissions. What about CVTs? I’ve heard flushing those is a big mistake.
I want to do my 2011 Honda Ridgeline it was done once before do you recommend changing it I am the new owner thank you
Just do a drain and fill takes about three to 4 L. I install an inline transmission filter in the hose coming from transmission cooler to transmission. I do a fluid change every 50,000 km or 30,000 miles. I tow a trailer all the time no problems yet. I have 240,000 km or 150,000 miles on the truck. Also if you haven’t changed out your radiator the fittings eventually rust off at the cooler, going into the radiator and allow coolant to get into transmission that will wreck the transmission. I changed the radiator out at 200,000 km or 125,000 miles as preventative maintenance.
Coolant 2008 rogue
What do I do when I bought a used car, do I need to change the transmission oil or do I get it flushed when I don’t know about what the last owner did?
Drain and fill, replace the filter and gasket if you can. If the old fluid is really bad, do another drain and fill in 500 miles. Another in 500 miles if necessary. Then drain and fill every 20-30k miles
It’s advisable to change all the fluids when buying a used car. In my experience, the car you buy has been simply driven with the bare minimum of maintenance performed. Many times it was a lease vehicle that got turned in by the lessee for a newer car. I have purchased 2 used trucks in the past 9 years and in both instances, I found many issues that should have been addressed, but instead, ignored. Oil changes are about all that were kept up with, but with no name filters and who knows what oil. There’s the differential, front and rear, transfer case, transmission and engine. All of these fluids wear out as time and mileage pass. Maintenance is cheaper than repair. Hard part failures are super expensive.
Sure takes a lot longer than changing the oil when you have a '03 Honda Odyssey! Because you have to disassemble and take a lot off and out of the way so you can do it. Then you have to put it all back on.
With a very thin funnel, you can fill fluid through the dipstick hole
Could one possibly put an inline filter between the transmission and the cooler?
Asking for a friend.🤔
That would be a ridiculously tiny filter, and would risk getting clogged and stopping the fluid flow entirely. Doesn’t it have a pan with a large filter in it?
When the car industry used the term “lifetime fluid” for their transmissions they were really saying that so they wouldn’t have to anything until AFTER the warranty period ends.