Great video Cody. I just removed mine today. I have big hands and was able to get my left hand behind the manifold and my right hand from below. For those reading this comment, you will need a deep 27MM socket, one that more than likely you will not have as it is not common. Harbor Freight has one for $4.76 (lucky I have one 1 mile from my house and I was able to get it today). The torque specs is 23 lb. Removing it is extremely easy, took me about 2 minutes in and out. The biggest issue is putting in the new one. I put my left hand behind the manifold and I have large hands and tried to use my right hand under the manifold to turn it and DROPPED the knock sensor... and could not find it for the life of me. After looking over and over again and just about to throw in the towel and order another one... I took a 15-minute break, came back, and was able to find it. Putting it back in took about 20 minutes, but still well worth it and after seeing the comments of people said it was around $385-500 I do not see why this job would cost that much unless the shop would be removing the manifold, which does not need to be done.
Places, including dealerships, think that because they are ASE Certified, they can rob people. Two different customers of mine: 1. Chevy Colorado, dealership said it would cost $2,000 to fix the issues it had, turned out it costed a $40 dollar part and $50 for labor. 2. '13 Nissan Pathfinder, shifter will not shift out of lock when depressing the pedal, dealership wanted over $800 to fix it. Turned out to be the brake switch that costed $15 at autozone and less than 5 minutes to replace it. The brake switch is a common failure on Nissans and the dealership's mechanics know it already, problem dates since about '95. So, yes, most of the fancy shops and up are thieves.
385$ is not bad at all considering the actual way to remove the sensor is that you have to remove the intake manifold. However there are usually shortcuts you can take, like here. I'm here because I figured there was a way without removing the manifold so thank you poster for that. Just thought I'd say 385$ is a very reasonable quote for this job (assuming labour is like 85-95$ per hour and the sensor will be 20-40 bucks depending on how they mark it up). I've seen quotes of like up to 1000$ for this job (by the actual scumbag "pros") so honestly you shouldn't shit talk those pros who quoted you lower...they sound like a better bunch.
Man did it just like you said .. auto zone has everything even the extensions ... saved a ton of money Only thing is when u buy the new sensor the new one will be upside down just rotate the connection and your good to go
Great video. It took just a few minutes to do this. The check engine light went off about 4 hours, and a couple of restarts after installation. Also knocked out an O2 sensor code that I was about to address as well. Thank you again.
havent done the job yet but watching this really eased my stress, i can easily handle this myself and don't need to pay an extra $150 for labor on top of parts. so now the OBD scanner i bought to figure out what was going on kinda paid for itself, plus I get to keep a new toy. thanks a ton, Cody!
Dude.. this video helped me tremendously. I thought I was going to have to remove the intake manifold. Thanks for posting. A pair of long bent needle nose pliers helps a lot with the connector.
Thanks for the video. Took me less than 10 minutes to do it, by simply following your steps. Even with XL hands didn't had any issues with unplugging old sensor and plugging new sensor back. 👍
Thanks for the heads up. I was able to remove it from underneath by pulling off the wire connector, moving the harness off the bracket(s) and then putting a 27mm deep socket on it with an extension. Not so bad after all!
9:17pm, January 6_2022. California Thank you so much for sharing your experiences and skills which saved problems on the road. It is educational very much so. Happy New Year of 2022.
lol.,., just want to thank you for mentioning oil sensor.. I was getting it mixed up with the knock sensor and continued to work on the oil sensor thinking it was a knock sensor ,.,., so thanks again,.,lol
Spent more time trying to get the damn wire unplugged with my giant ass hands than I did actually removing the sensor with the socket😂 got it done though because of your video, thanks my guy! Sooo much money saved and feels good doing shit myself. Dash light turned off after driving around for 2 minutes🤙🏼
5/2021: Important REASON for P0325 Knock Sensor code: at first I thought, wow, expensive, either the knock sensor has to be replaced, or something inside the engine is causing the code (bearings?). But for us, it was because my wife ran onto a cement parking block, the front bumper had torn away from its support structure, and the under-neath splash guard (tough rubber/plastic) was flopping around under the car when driven. That's what caused the knock sensor code! I ended up cutting away most of the spash guard so that the front tires didn't hit it when turning. Anyway, I may get problems from the absence of the splash guard (but not so far, even with some rainy weather), but the P0325 Knock sensor code solved.
Thanks for the video. I have a k20z3 engine and have had two check engine lights with this code. After a day or two the engine light goes out. Is that normal? Also, is it dangerous to drive? Car feels and sounds normal but it’s fairly new to me.
If anyone is changing this on an Acura CSX, its impossible to go this route. Put the front on jack stands and go from bottom, 27mm socket, its tricky to get the socket in there, but its better than taking your intake manifold off.
How do you know for sure the knock sensor is bad by scanning the code? Should the resistance need to be checked on sensor? Should the connector plug and receptacle need to be check for loose connection or corrosion? Should the sensor need to be cleaned?
Will a 250mm extension bar do the trick or is there a reason you used so many different extensions? My socket set is quite limited and I don't currently have any other options.
Thanks for the video. It saved me at least $300. However, it was a little more of a bitch than I thought it would be. Getting the old one out is a breeze. It’s getting maneuvered to get the replacement started that is difficult. Helps if you have small hands. I don’t. But I finally got it in there.
Thank you you're a bad a** I broke mine that's good it's better than pulling off the intake manifold thanks buddy I appreciate you keep up the good job
Can I ask what year this car is? I'm really confused because in researching this. For the 2004 half the info and videos show like this video that the knock sensor is on the front of the engine. The other half show the knock sensor on the top of the engine and a lot more work to access. Are there 2 knock sensors?
Hi Cody, great video. One question I saw another video and the guy said to buy the wire as well, cause the size is different on the new sensor, is that true? I got bwd sensor, same 2003 Honda. Thanks
thanks, great video. My '97 Prelude is throwing a P0325. It started right after getting it rust sprayed this fall. Not sure if that's a coincidence or not. Had a similar problem on my '14 Fiesta where they oversprayed around the gas tank and it fouled a couple sensors.
Had P0325 and need to pass smog. My check engine light has been going on and off for the last 3 months. 260k miles on a 2003 Honda Accord. I have done oil changes and brakes. Lots of patience needed on this one. The videos dont do justice for the tightness of the space. Used needle nose pliers to disconnect. Had a similar deep socket and removed the knock sensor. I dropped the socket with sensor in the engine bay. The space became the bane of my existence. Spent an hour with my fingers inches away from being able to grab them. I ended up having to buy retractable magnet tool (got two just in case) and was able to remove in 10 minutes. Putting sensor in took longer as well. I ended up using both the paper towel trick and had tape the sensor onto the socket. Other videos have a mirror, I am unsure how useful that would be. It also took some time to hit the threads. Hopefully I pass smog check. My code is pending at the moment but it has been going on and off...
It took 10 minutes to replace sensor but pluging it back in I worked on it for 2 hours and gave up for the night back at it tomorrow the 06 has a shield on the manifold that won't let you see it from the front like in this video,
Is there an issue or a how to "unplug the Plug" - Plastic, squeeze, I obviously do not want to damage as you stated a prior owner messed it up but you did not go into any detail. Great Tutorial Video for all the rest. I also have a 2003 4 Cyl and - the check engine light is on with a knock sensor on bank one (the only one) - Interesting, the engine seems to run great - I did check the fuel cap.
same here with 2003 CRV, the engine runs as normal even the P0235 light up, so I don't feel dead urgent to fix it, but consider when resell it, better get it fix
I have the same motor. got the knock sensor code replaced it with a brand new knock sensor, and check engine light comes back on after about 5 minutes. I double checked to make sure it was screwed in and also rechecked the harness to make sure it was plugged all the way in. any suggestions?
@@CodytheCarGuy Thank you Sir!. I have the Haynes manual and it states to make sure you replace the o-ring. Didnt see one during disassembly + didnt see one in the parts breakdown either. drove me a little batty.
Cody. Why they call it knock sensor? Couse I have a 1999 honda accord vtec 6cil. 3.0. I asking couse when I put it on reverse and into drive it make clunk noise when I shift into gears. And my 4d is blinking. Any help.
Most of the time a clunking noise is a broken mount or even a broken cv axle. But a broken cv axle you will hear clicking as you go into a turn. And to check for a mount have someone hold the brake and then put it into gear while someone is looking under the hood you will see the engine jump. Make sure the emergency brake it set or wheels chalked and stand on the side of the car while looking under the hood to be safe. A flashing d4 you will have to scan the car and see what codes pull up for the transmission.
Its Flacco put multiple ext together, go thru the exhaust manifold with it and be on the closest side of the wire to the engine, use leverage while pulling towards the cab of the car while using your other hand to release the lock on the underside of the knock sensor
Since I struggled with this too....I was not able to get my whole hand on the connector,....there is a release tab that you can press (probably on the underside of the connector)...while pressed, then took a long flat head screwdriver and applied pressure to remove the connector...no damage to the wire or connector.
note that the long screw driver is inserted from the top...between the exhaust manifold. So your hand is under the exhaust manifold...with your finger pressing the tab, then use the long flat head from the top to wedge the connector off....once off...I did not have any issue putting it back on.
If only it was that easy on a EP3 :( I'm trying to replace my knock sensor without removing the Intake Manifold. Stuck all morning. Guess I'll just take it off.
Erkjawn I replaced it without taking the IM after like 30 tries. I got a socket adapter that can rotate. Went underneath the car found a good position to loosen it. And bam got it out with ease. Maybe I'll make a video of how I did. But I don't need to replace it. Lol.
Does anyone know the severity of this issue. I scanned my car and it said to change the sensor as soon as possible if I had driving issues. That it could damage the main system.
hey bud i got a 2005 Rsx K20 base model, and i know i have a bad knock sensor, but my quesstion is What would Tell me my car has a bad sensor. IE high idal or something like that? other then the check engine light?
Do you know a fix for the p0325 code for the 2003 Honda Element. Apparently it's pretty common and just a stupid sort of code that doesn't actually mean anything. Thanks for your time.
I have one with the same code and it turns out the base was crack so half of it came off. Before I found this out I had the same problem of the light sometimes going out and coming on. I guess weak engine components, so now I'm trying to see if the knock sensor can be placed on another part of the engine.
Cody: I have this EXACT Car. I was wondering if you felt that an engine "knock" (very mild) would generate enough "noise" too trigger this code. My cams are "worn", and make just a small bit of noise. *Thanks for the GREAT VIDEO Sir !
I love you brother and I mean that you help me out a lot with this. Thank you so much God bless you you deserve the best in life God bless you brother👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞
Can somebody tell me where the other end of the wire pugs into our send me a link i can look at before i start unbolting things that don't need to be touched.
Yep I got check engine light. Made mistake of replacing with a cheap $12.00 knock sensor, car pings on unleaded regular when climbing my hill at home, going to replace again with Genuine Honda Part.
how much does a genuine cost, do you know? and is it easy to do it yourself? whats the extension called that the guy is using? does anyone know cause i will get that from Canadian tire and do it myself. Mechanic quoted me $300 for this...lol not even sure if he is ripping me out or not?
fahad waliany it's between 75 and 100$ for the genuine part. My buddy didn't want to wait for me to do this 20min job so he paid a mechanic who quoted him 2.5hrs at 95$/hr = $312.5 total and the sensor was not genuine honda for 75$.. It really boggles my mind
My engine light came on , and gave me the some code . I replaced the knock sensor, after a test drive, the light came back on with the same code. So I replaced the harness wire. The light came back again with the same code. Any idea what the problem would be ?
Could be a bad sensor sometimes sensors are just crap ive went thru 3 tps sensors before I got a good 1 id try to exchange it or just get another 1 and keep in mind cheaper is not always better hope this helps
Ouch thats suxs if the cam shaft bearings are worn it could cause that issue my suggestion just do the head gasket and timing and water pump all at once if your going in that far that should give u 100k mile ease of mind... Its will be a big job but worth it if your trying to keep the car
@@bradbyers2764 thanks for the suggestion, I have the timing chain coming n I have the camshaft. Il look in to getting the other staff. Thanks I appreciate it.
Great video Cody. I just removed mine today. I have big hands and was able to get my left hand behind the manifold and my right hand from below. For those reading this comment, you will need a deep 27MM socket, one that more than likely you will not have as it is not common. Harbor Freight has one for $4.76 (lucky I have one 1 mile from my house and I was able to get it today). The torque specs is 23 lb.
Removing it is extremely easy, took me about 2 minutes in and out. The biggest issue is putting in the new one. I put my left hand behind the manifold and I have large hands and tried to use my right hand under the manifold to turn it and DROPPED the knock sensor... and could not find it for the life of me. After looking over and over again and just about to throw in the towel and order another one... I took a 15-minute break, came back, and was able to find it. Putting it back in took about 20 minutes, but still well worth it and after seeing the comments of people said it was around $385-500 I do not see why this job would cost that much unless the shop would be removing the manifold, which does not need to be done.
My guy said 100 bucks but that he wouldnt have it done for 3 days. Watched this vid and did it myself in 30 minutes. Thanks so much dude.
Bahahahaha! The pros just told me $385 because it's very labor intensive! So happy I looked this up!
Kim Haic so they figured on taking advantage of a women.
Places, including dealerships, think that because they are ASE Certified, they can rob people.
Two different customers of mine:
1. Chevy Colorado, dealership said it would cost $2,000 to fix the issues it had, turned out it costed a $40 dollar part and $50 for labor.
2. '13 Nissan Pathfinder, shifter will not shift out of lock when depressing the pedal, dealership wanted over $800 to fix it. Turned out to be the brake switch that costed $15 at autozone and less than 5 minutes to replace it. The brake switch is a common failure on Nissans and the dealership's mechanics know it already, problem dates since about '95.
So, yes, most of the fancy shops and up are thieves.
@JDM BOOST if being smart and clever is cheating, I don't know what to tell you bro haha, but I got what you saying about those dealers blood suckers.
I'm glad you looked it up, that's way too overpriced!
385$ is not bad at all considering the actual way to remove the sensor is that you have to remove the intake manifold. However there are usually shortcuts you can take, like here. I'm here because I figured there was a way without removing the manifold so thank you poster for that. Just thought I'd say 385$ is a very reasonable quote for this job (assuming labour is like 85-95$ per hour and the sensor will be 20-40 bucks depending on how they mark it up). I've seen quotes of like up to 1000$ for this job (by the actual scumbag "pros") so honestly you shouldn't shit talk those pros who quoted you lower...they sound like a better bunch.
Thanks you saved me $280. The mechanic said he had to take off the manifold to replace the sensor...I watched ur video and did it in 10 minutes
Man did it just like you said .. auto zone has everything even the extensions ... saved a ton of money
Only thing is when u buy the new sensor the new one will be upside down just rotate the connection and your good to go
How is your Honda doing right now ?
Great video. It took just a few minutes to do this. The check engine light went off about 4 hours, and a couple of restarts after installation. Also knocked out an O2 sensor code that I was about to address as well. Thank you again.
havent done the job yet but watching this really eased my stress, i can easily handle this myself and don't need to pay an extra $150 for labor on top of parts. so now the OBD scanner i bought to figure out what was going on kinda paid for itself, plus I get to keep a new toy. thanks a ton, Cody!
Dude.. this video helped me tremendously. I thought I was going to have to remove the intake manifold. Thanks for posting. A pair of long bent needle nose pliers helps a lot with the connector.
Thanks for the video. Took me less than 10 minutes to do it, by simply following your steps. Even with XL hands didn't had any issues with unplugging old sensor and plugging new sensor back. 👍
Thanks for the heads up. I was able to remove it from underneath by pulling off the wire connector, moving the harness off the bracket(s) and then putting a 27mm deep socket on it with an extension. Not so bad after all!
You’re the freakin man!! Saved me a day of work and who knows how many headaches. Thanks a lot!
My guy was at 500+ for this job. He is no longer my guy!
I bet, not a good guy. $500!!! that is insane.
Bro he got you goooood
For 500$ you could of bought a whole new motor
Yes that is not easy special in my Nissan Murano no runs under the intake to do the spark plugs or PVC or anything else
9:17pm, January 6_2022. California
Thank you so much for sharing your experiences and skills which saved problems on the road. It is educational very much so. Happy New Year of 2022.
Thanks for saving this single momma hundreds of dollars. I was able to do it myself!
Best video I've seen on this. Nice job.
lol.,., just want to thank you for mentioning oil sensor.. I was getting it mixed up with the knock sensor and continued to work on the oil sensor thinking it was a knock sensor ,.,., so thanks again,.,lol
Thanks man saved me 300 bucks! I put some tape in the socket when I was putting the sensor back in....helped hold it.
really appreciate it, the best video ever seen about knock replacement
when you unplug the the connection is there enough length to it so i can check the plug and wires?
I have a 03! This works out well!
Same here. I just changed mine. It was fairly easy to do.
Spent more time trying to get the damn wire unplugged with my giant ass hands than I did actually removing the sensor with the socket😂 got it done though because of your video, thanks my guy! Sooo much money saved and feels good doing shit myself. Dash light turned off after driving around for 2 minutes🤙🏼
Awesome video. Now i have a better idea how to replace one. can a bad knock sensor case an overheating problem?
Thanks dude,my pro told me is going to be very expensive job on my V6 accord 06,and I parked by the building like a garbage 😁
Stealership wanted 400 plus Canadian Dollars. This video saved me huge coin. Thanks.
"All you've got to do is plug it back in"
Easier said than done.
5/2021: Important REASON for P0325 Knock Sensor code: at first I thought, wow, expensive, either the knock sensor has to be replaced, or something inside the engine is causing the code (bearings?). But for us, it was because my wife ran onto a cement parking block, the front bumper had torn away from its support structure, and the under-neath splash guard (tough rubber/plastic) was flopping around under the car when driven. That's what caused the knock sensor code! I ended up cutting away most of the spash guard so that the front tires didn't hit it when turning. Anyway, I may get problems from the absence of the splash guard (but not so far, even with some rainy weather), but the P0325 Knock sensor code solved.
Thanks for the video. I have a k20z3 engine and have had two check engine lights with this code. After a day or two the engine light goes out. Is that normal? Also, is it dangerous to drive? Car feels and sounds normal but it’s fairly new to me.
Thank you for this video, going to swap out mine tonight.
Cool idea, using multiple extensions.
If anyone is changing this on an Acura CSX, its impossible to go this route. Put the front on jack stands and go from bottom, 27mm socket, its tricky to get the socket in there, but its better than taking your intake manifold off.
How do you know for sure the knock sensor is bad by scanning the code? Should the resistance need to be checked on sensor? Should the connector plug and receptacle need to be check for loose connection or corrosion? Should the sensor need to be cleaned?
Will a 250mm extension bar do the trick or is there a reason you used so many different extensions? My socket set is quite limited and I don't currently have any other options.
Is there a difference from buying it at the dealership than at auto zone.?(knock sensor)
Thanks Cody. I have a Honda Element and the engine is the same.
Same here and I'll be attempting this next week when my replacement sensor arrives. Nice to know what I'll need beforehand.
Thanks for the video. It saved me at least $300. However, it was a little more of a bitch than I thought it would be. Getting the old one out is a breeze. It’s getting maneuvered to get the replacement started that is difficult. Helps if you have small hands. I don’t. But I finally got it in there.
Thank you you're a bad a** I broke mine that's good it's better than pulling off the intake manifold thanks buddy I appreciate you keep up the good job
its flacco - Did you ever get an answer how to remove the clip/wire from old sensor ? I can not reach it either
Can I ask what year this car is? I'm really confused because in researching this. For the 2004 half the info and videos show like this video that the knock sensor is on the front of the engine. The other half show the knock sensor on the top of the engine and a lot more work to access. Are there 2 knock sensors?
Hi Cody, great video. One question I saw another video and the guy said to buy the wire as well, cause the size is different on the new sensor, is that true? I got bwd sensor, same 2003 Honda. Thanks
thanks, great video. My '97 Prelude is throwing a P0325. It started right after getting it rust sprayed this fall. Not sure if that's a coincidence or not. Had a similar problem on my '14 Fiesta where they oversprayed around the gas tank and it fouled a couple sensors.
There are a ton of these but no one shows the hardest part - how to unplug the wire!
Yes n tru
@@jseawright1186 Because it's unplugging a fucking wire dude. You really need someone to hold your hand for that?
You have to go underneath to unplug it
Sokhon Chan thanks moron, I am sure it's easy ....
@ calling people names when he's the idiot that's having a hard time. Lmao
OK other videos say that you will need to get a wire adapter for the new knock sensor but you don't mention that for the same vehicle.
My knock sensor is rusted on. Any tips to crack it loose?
Is that the same Knoxk sensor for 2010 honda odyssey
Simplest method I've seen so far, nice one 👍
where is the knock sensor on a Honda 1999 2.3 4 cyl...???Any help appreciated..been looking around and haven't found it yet..
instinct022 I'm looking for a 2000 2.0 :(
instinct022
where is at
The sensor is on the back of the motor around in the middle of the block under the intake manifold. I thnk the conector is green
do you know where is the knock sensor on a 2005 Honda accord coupe? Plz thank you
Did you found out ?
No u cannot reach under to unplug. Im stuck.
Had P0325 and need to pass smog. My check engine light has been going on and off for the last 3 months. 260k miles on a 2003 Honda Accord.
I have done oil changes and brakes. Lots of patience needed on this one. The videos dont do justice for the tightness of the space.
Used needle nose pliers to disconnect. Had a similar deep socket and removed the knock sensor. I dropped the socket with sensor in the engine bay. The space became the bane of my existence. Spent an hour with my fingers inches away from being able to grab them.
I ended up having to buy retractable magnet tool (got two just in case) and was able to remove in 10 minutes.
Putting sensor in took longer as well. I ended up using both the paper towel trick and had tape the sensor onto the socket. Other videos have a mirror, I am unsure how useful that would be. It also took some time to hit the threads.
Hopefully I pass smog check. My code is pending at the moment but it has been going on and off...
why are there 163 dislikes. i think this was a pretty good tutorial
They're pros and stealerships.
It took 10 minutes to replace sensor but pluging it back in I worked on it for 2 hours and gave up for the night back at it tomorrow the 06 has a shield on the manifold that won't let you see it from the front like in this video,
Is this the same for a Honda CR-V EX-L 2009 ?
This code means that the knock sensor gone bad ? Or there is another problem ?
Is there an issue or a how to "unplug the Plug" - Plastic, squeeze, I obviously do not want to damage as you stated a prior owner messed it up but you did not go into any detail. Great Tutorial Video for all the rest. I also have a 2003 4 Cyl and - the check engine light is on with a knock sensor on bank one (the only one) - Interesting, the engine seems to run great - I did check the fuel cap.
same here with 2003 CRV, the engine runs as normal even the P0235 light up, so I don't feel dead urgent to fix it, but consider when resell it, better get it fix
@@carsdailyhk Did you eventually replace/fix the issue?
27MM JEEEEEZ!!
For big nuts
I have the same motor. got the knock sensor code replaced it with a brand new knock sensor, and check engine light comes back on after about 5 minutes. I double checked to make sure it was screwed in and also rechecked the harness to make sure it was plugged all the way in. any suggestions?
Jordan Calon maybe the knock sensor it fail again
"New parts" come defective all the time especially from local auto parts shops. Return it and try another
Check the wiring going from the knock sensor to the ECU for signs of damage
What are the torque specs on the knock sensor
Thank you man!
Thank you I’m gonna do it this way and take it instead of taking the cover off the bottom
Just changed mine, my cel is still on do I got to drive it for it to turn off ?P0325 as well
How did you diagnose that the knock sensor was bad in the first place? Any number of variables could have caused that code.
They sell OBD (on board diagnostic) at Walmart. $20-$40. I bought the $40, it's easy to use. It's pretty handy I use it on my two cars already
Scan it with a obd2 scaner
I took mine out. Dont see a seal or o ring on theses?? Does the sensor just get screwed in to block with out sealant or gasket/oring??
It just screws back in.
@@CodytheCarGuy Thank you Sir!. I have the Haynes manual and it states to make sure you replace the o-ring. Didnt see one during disassembly + didnt see one in the parts breakdown either. drove me a little batty.
Cody. Why they call it knock sensor? Couse I have a 1999 honda accord vtec 6cil. 3.0. I asking couse when I put it on reverse and into drive it make clunk noise when I shift into gears. And my 4d is blinking. Any help.
Most of the time a clunking noise is a broken mount or even a broken cv axle. But a broken cv axle you will hear clicking as you go into a turn. And to check for a mount have someone hold the brake and then put it into gear while someone is looking under the hood you will see the engine jump. Make sure the emergency brake it set or wheels chalked and stand on the side of the car while looking under the hood to be safe. A flashing d4 you will have to scan the car and see what codes pull up for the transmission.
@@CodytheCarGuy ok I checked to see if it was the motor mounts. But is not. The clunk sound more like If it transmission side.
@@CodytheCarGuy and thanks 4 answering back to me. I also got a new 3rd clutch pressure switch to install.
Had to replace the knock sensor because it got damaged when replaced the starter motor...space is extremely tight.
can I get exact tools and will this be the same location. for my 01 civic
WHat is the socket size??
27mm
1:57
27 mm is the right size, but a 1 -1/16 inches work as well
How were you able to unplug it??
Ive changed my knock sensor twice and the p0325 code still keeps coming back. Any idea on how to keep this check engine light off? Its super annoying.
Did you use a Honda OEM Part?
OEM part
Is there a torque setting it should be at??
No
Cant figure out how to unplug it. Any tips?
Its Flacco put multiple ext together, go thru the exhaust manifold with it and be on the closest side of the wire to the engine, use leverage while pulling towards the cab of the car while using your other hand to release the lock on the underside of the knock sensor
The hint is to use both hands. forget about the flash light. The hint is thanks to this guy:th-cam.com/video/dNXrhoM9Kxg/w-d-xo.html
Since I struggled with this too....I was not able to get my whole hand on the connector,....there is a release tab that you can press (probably on the underside of the connector)...while pressed, then took a long flat head screwdriver and applied pressure to remove the connector...no damage to the wire or connector.
note that the long screw driver is inserted from the top...between the exhaust manifold. So your hand is under the exhaust manifold...with your finger pressing the tab, then use the long flat head from the top to wedge the connector off....once off...I did not have any issue putting it back on.
If only it was that easy on a EP3 :( I'm trying to replace my knock sensor without removing the Intake Manifold. Stuck all morning. Guess I'll just take it off.
juan_ed3 so how bad was it? I just got the code for it so I'm debating over if I should do it myself or not
Erkjawn I replaced it without taking the IM after like 30 tries. I got a socket adapter that can rotate. Went underneath the car found a good position to loosen it. And bam got it out with ease. Maybe I'll make a video of how I did. But I don't need to replace it. Lol.
+juan_ed3 my ep3 just got the same code. so you say its easier from underneath?
+Ej8Guy Yes sir. I'll try to make a tutorial soon.
how tf did you plug back in, im fucking dying over here
Does anyone know the severity of this issue. I scanned my car and it said to change the sensor as soon as possible if I had driving issues. That it could damage the main system.
Thank you, subbed
Cody I have a engine code p0325 would that be the knock sensor
hey bud i got a 2005 Rsx K20 base model, and i know i have a bad knock sensor, but my quesstion is What would Tell me my car has a bad sensor. IE high idal or something like that? other then the check engine light?
it eats alot of gas sluggish acceleration and deceleration and the check engine light..
Do you know a fix for the p0325 code for the 2003 Honda Element. Apparently it's pretty common and just a stupid sort of code that doesn't actually mean anything. Thanks for your time.
BAD Ben is the same k24 engine the same medicine for you honda element
pedro rodriguez I have a rebuilt engine is my knock sensor in the same place 2002 Honda accord ex v6 engine
I have one with the same code and it turns out the base was crack so half of it came off. Before I found this out I had the same problem of the light sometimes going out and coming on. I guess weak engine components, so now I'm trying to see if the knock sensor can be placed on another part of the engine.
Hey Cody...do you know where the knock sensor is on a 2007 RDX? Thank you...great video
Same for Pilot 2006 3.5L 6 cyl? Somebody know this? Thanks
Cody: I have this EXACT Car. I was wondering if you felt that an engine "knock" (very mild) would generate enough "noise" too trigger this code. My cams are "worn", and make just a small bit of noise. *Thanks for the GREAT VIDEO Sir !
Hey did u find out the problem ? Mine is doing something similar ? Thanks in advance
Larios331 Nope: The parts on order ....
Same for v6 ? Someone know this ?
No its not
I love you brother and I mean that you help me out a lot with this. Thank you so much God bless you you deserve the best in life God bless you brother👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞
You think this will be the same procedure on a 05 Acura TSX ?
If you have the 2.4 ivtec then yes
Can somebody tell me where the other end of the wire pugs into our send me a link i can look at before i start unbolting things that don't need to be touched.
What problems could you get from a bad knock sensor?
Lower power and indicator "check engine"
Yep I got check engine light. Made mistake of replacing with a cheap $12.00 knock sensor, car pings on unleaded regular when climbing my hill at home, going to replace again with Genuine Honda Part.
good to know!!! ...always best not to use the cheapest aftermarket thingee imo
how much does a genuine cost, do you know? and is it easy to do it yourself? whats the extension called that the guy is using? does anyone know cause i will get that from Canadian tire and do it myself. Mechanic quoted me $300 for this...lol not even sure if he is ripping me out or not?
fahad waliany it's between 75 and 100$ for the genuine part. My buddy didn't want to wait for me to do this 20min job so he paid a mechanic who quoted him 2.5hrs at 95$/hr = $312.5 total and the sensor was not genuine honda for 75$.. It really boggles my mind
I can't even find the knock sensor on it.....
were are locate knock sensor 98 honda crv somebody know can tell me please thank you.
The hard part is getting the plug out and you didnt show that
Can not do this way on 2005 honda crv , you have to go through the bottom. you didnt say what honda are you changing the sensor.
Let me have that spare engine
That spare engine is being built right now for a boosted civic build :)
Cody the Car Guy do u know where the knock sensor on a 2002 honda accord ex
Can I do the same on a 2004 Accord ?
If is the 2.4L yes, should be the same setup.
piece a cake! try it on 02+crv
Very helpfull
Impossible to unplug this sensor unless you have tiny hands
Pull intake manifold to access.
Long nose angled pliers, easy
My engine light came on , and gave me the some code . I replaced the knock sensor, after a test drive, the light came back on with the same code. So I replaced the harness wire. The light came back again with the same code. Any idea what the problem would be ?
Could be a bad sensor sometimes sensors are just crap ive went thru 3 tps sensors before I got a good 1 id try to exchange it or just get another 1 and keep in mind cheaper is not always better hope this helps
@@bradbyers2764 thanks for the response, I found the problem. It's the exhaust camshaft . Its knocking lol
Ouch thats suxs if the cam shaft bearings are worn it could cause that issue my suggestion just do the head gasket and timing and water pump all at once if your going in that far that should give u 100k mile ease of mind... Its will be a big job but worth it if your trying to keep the car
@@bradbyers2764 thanks for the suggestion, I have the timing chain coming n I have the camshaft. Il look in to getting the other staff. Thanks I appreciate it.
Awesome ...
i need to change my knock sensor on my accord 1999
me too
+xMARiSAxBABiix They are pretty easy to change , once you know where it is and what tools needed.
sen sores de aserasion de onda elemen
All i gotta do is plug it out n plug it in ok smh