I've seen alot of DIY vids in my time, but the way you record and edit yours is the best I've seen. Very professional- I'm usually fast forwarding through the dead frames but you took em' all out. Thanks for the effort!
This is probably the clearest, most concise and useful car repair video I have seen, and I have seen a lot. I watched it twice and took notes, everything was exactly as stated in the video. Thank you very much.
Right away I found a big huge problem with this video. Always throw my old underwear away. In a situation like this I would always use my wife's old underwear. They do the same job, they look prettier and they keep me in the proper frame of mind while I'm working on my car. This is the best how to video I have ever seen on TH-cam. I'll be a follower for life.
My wife's panties wouldn't absorb much. Maybe if I needed a string or a face mask. In this case, my big ass underwear would diffinatley do the trick. I agree, the video is well done and has been extremely helpful. Personally I use my old shirts that are damaged or no longer fit.
Amazing job on this video, and on the work you did. Pro level work. Master level shooting and editing! Thank you very much! I've picked up 5spd '05 CR-V about 10 months ago with 272K miles on it. Currently at 277K. So far, no CEL, and no issues with 2 v-tec components on the exterior of the engine. It's nice to see how "easily" they are to get to though.
Great video! I like that you differentiated between the Variable timing solenoid and Vtec Solenoid. At 5:03 you mention there was supposed to be an O-ring on the end, but that it might be stuck inside. I don't think so. When you buy the O-ring from the dealer online, they show an O-ring at the front in the drawing like you mentioned.That ring is already on the solenoid in your video, its the black ring farthest to the left that keeps the oil from spilling out to the side of the engine. Its the only O-ring for sale on that solenoid. Its also a good idea to replace the Vtec solenoid screen at the rear of the engine. I'm a fan of your channel, thumbs up!
@@elkinposada6261 The O-ring is right there in the video at 5:03, its the black ring farthest to the left. The new solenoid should come with the O ring already installed on it. If your solenoid is leaking oil but it's still working fine, you can buy the O ring by itself from the dealer.
Thanks for the great video. I did this today on my 2.4L 2009 Honda Accord EX-L. Instead of just cleaning the filter screen, I replaced the screen itself and cleaned its housing. I wasn't able to remove the VVT Valve/Solenoid, as I imagine it hasn't been touched in almost 12 years and is stuck in there pretty good. Either way, after the screen cleaning, the noise from the actuator upon cold start up is now gone. In case others want to follow this video and run into the same issue as me, try a new filter screen replacement and see where it takes you. Thanks again, speedkar99!
My car is a 2003 Honda Accord 2.4L. Thanks so much for the video. It was super informative and allowed me to complete the first task and put everything back together within 20min. The second part (taking out the VTC solenoid) took a bit longer because the connector/head broke off leaving the longer part inside. First I panicked but after some research found out that it was not uncommon for this to happen. First I took out the long plunger that moves in and out. It came out by hand. Then I Purchased a screw extractor set from Canadian tire. Put the largest #5 in the hole, tapped it a bit to get it to stick in the hole, started to work it back and forth and after a few minutes the rest came right out. Now I am just waiting on the new VTC solenoid to arrive, so I can install and finish the job.
@@speedkar99 Thanks for the respond back. Unfortunately taking off the valve cover doesn't help. The only way to gain more room/access is to remove the side timing chain cover. But like I mentioned before if this ever happens to anyone where the head part of the VTC breaks leaving the long metal part in the hole. Don't worry, just buy a screw extractor set ($20) and you will be able to take it right out without having to remove anything additional. Good luck.. Thanks for the awsome step by step video.
After 6 years, got P1009 code again and repeated procedure outlined in video. This time VVT solenoid wouldn't come out. Put a screwdriver on side of solenoid and tapped it with a hammer. Thought that might loosen it, but that was mistake. The attachment is really weak! It's just bent metal. Broke off the external portion of the VVT solenoid. I can confirm that the long plunger that moves in and out of the solenoid will come out by hand. It's oily so you may need to wipe it off. It will also slide back in. So you may need to play with it a little, but it does comes out easy once you get it out far enough you can grip it. After removal of center plunger, followed advice re: screw extractor. Worked fine. I would add there isn't a lot of room to work. If I didn't put an extension on my socket wrench, there wasn't enough length to reach some bolt heads. If I put a short extension on the wrench, it was too long to operate in the small space. My solution was to use a 1/2" socket wrench with a 1/2-to-3/8" reducer, which gave me about an inch of extension instead of about 2" with the short extension. Thanks to @baberabbas11
just wanted to say thanks for the clear and concise video without any garbage music or intro - you also took the time to show the reassembly process instead of the usual "redo everything you first did backwards" nonsense.. cheers dude!
Oh crap! My wife threw away all my old underwear and bought me all new stuff for Christmas. So I wasn’t sure I would be able to get this job done. But I managed to figure out a solution; I took off the undies I was wearing and used them. I don’t think I would have been able to attempt this job had I been wearing boxer shorts. Finally, great video with lots of detail! Thank you speedkar99.
Great vid. I hate when people talk to much about stuff that has nothing to do with the task at hand. You gave the right information in the right amount. Nice!
Just as a heads up to anyone doing this. For some reason the code wouldnt clear for me at first. I had to rev the engine a few times and it cleared for me. Thanks for the video man, I personally just did the VTEC cylinder and didnt do the strainer. Took me all of 10 minutes to complete!
Excellent video! Images and descriptions are crystal clear with nice, tight editing. I have a slight oil leak at the VTC Valve (2008 Element), and am also planning to replace the serpentine belt and tensioner. I got all the info I need from your one video. Beautiful!
This is a great video. No extra BS. Right to the point and extremely easy to follow. I pulled my engine mount to give me more room, but I can see you didn't have to. Thanks for posting this.
Very informative video keep them coming. My Honda has the p10009 code also. It tends to turn on when my engine oil gets close to being time for a change. It will turn on when I start driving aggressively. However when I drive normal the code turns its self off. I used a scan tool to identify the code. Thanks for sharing your video!
Thank you for the excellent video. I cleaned the VTC valve on my 2004 Honda Accord with 132,600 miles, which had the p1009 code. I've driven it around 22 miles since the cleaning and the check engine light has not come back on yet. I will need to drive it more to be sure this procedure addressed the problem. Here are a couple of comments: (1) the strainer looked pretty clean, but I cleaned it anyway; (2) testing the solenoid by applying 12V across the terminals took awhile because access to the terminals within the connector housing is very tight. It is too small for alligator clips. I finally located a couple of long probe pins that worked okay, but one has to be careful not to touch them together and short the circuit; (3) during reassembly, replacing the bolt that holds the solenoid on is tricky because you can't see the hole, and replacing the idler pulley is also a little tricky as you have to hold the nut that receives the bolt in position in the back of the housing while you thread the bolt or the nut pops out. There is not much room to get your hand in there. I popped the nut out once and it took 10 minutes to find the bolt as it landed on the plate below the engine. Since the solenoid works and neither the solenoid nor the screen seemed dirty, I'm not sure why the cleaning solves the problem. But if it works, I guess that's what's important.
+Richard Wilhelm Thanks. My solenoid didn't seem that dirty either, but I drove thousands of km after and didn't get a p1009. That nut can be a pain if you lose it, mine was rusted/crusted on there so it didn't fall out. Did you change your O-Ring? I think mine started leaking after cleaning my solenoid.
I didn't replace anything. I will check for leaks. I hope its okay as I would prefer not to repeat the procedure to replace the O-ring. Thanks for the tip and thanks again for the video.
Great tutorial, my GF's car had a rough idle and p1009 code. I was able to complete this repair in about an hour without having previously work on this car. Thanks!
I have a pilot - not sure if it is the same engine but i am sure it is similar. Very well done video. Very thorough and very detailed. Gave me great understanding of the principals - should be able to translate this to any engine provided i can find the location of the solenoid and strainer.
Seriously one of the best Honda Videos i have seen. 1 thing and this might be my OCD but don't neglect to add Anti-seize to your bolts when you reuse them. Especially for bolts going into the block in hard to access places.
Thanks for the video. Did the job today and it’s was easy. Only thing that I got snagged on was I broke the screw holding down the ground wire trying to remove it from the engine mount. Going to replace the ground wire with another of the same gauge but longer and going to attach the other end to the engine where the power steering pump line is bolted near the firewall. Note: My VTC solenoid was stuck in the engine. I had to use a Channellock plier to wiggle it out.
just an update. My co-worker has a 2009 Honda Accord. She has a bad mechanic that basically told her to start shopping for a used car. Because of your video, and my tools, I was able to remove her solenoid, spray it down with brake fluid, test it on the battery (clicky/clicky), reinstall and now her Check Engine Light (CEL) is gone. a couple hours of elbow grease, some dirty finger nails, and I look like a hero because of your video. Thanks once again.
THIS IS AN ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC PRESENTATION BRO! TO THE POINT AND CLEAR! I AM CLEANING MINE TOMORROW AS MY 07 ACCORD SHOW BOTH P2646 AND P1009... IT ALSO STALLED AT A STOPLIGHT YESTERDAY... THANKS FOR THIS VID - SUPER HELPFUL!
Great video and professionally done. As it turned out all I really needed to do was add oil. Glad I did not have to go through this, but your video gave me confidence I could do it when it becomes necessary. Again, great video!
Far the best tutorial video i ve watched in my entire life! He explains everything, he shows exactly what tou need to do and he doesnt lose time shit talking!! Instantly suscribed!
speedkar99, I cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when removing and replacing the pulley tensioner. the nut for the pulley fell out when I first removed the tensioner and I did not realize it until I went to reinstall. When I spotted the nut perilously leaning on a pulley, my son tried to be helpful and retrieve it, but only succeeded in knocking it into the splash shield. Luckily, I was able to get it. I used a piece of tape to hold the nut in place on the tensioner, but the tape didn't hold and now the nut has completely disappeared. It would be an easy engineering fix to capture the nut in the tensioner to avoid this sort of thing. Anyway, thanks for the great video!
Great job with the video. Thank you for posting it. I can tell it took a lot of time to do and those of us muddling through our car repairs during the apocalypse thank you!
Need to say, great video. Helped me know the steps needed, except for getting the VTC solenoid out. Mine was sized in. The two parts separated. Might have been due to no room. Ended up having to take my master cylinder off, engine mount. Should just do that to make more room as part of the steps. Cause my solenoid broke apart, had to take the valve cover off and push it out from the inside, replace valve gasket. After everything is back together and a fresh oil change, it's working great.
speedkar99 thank you so much for this video it's so helpful I need your advice In my Honda Accord 8th this Valve has little bit oil around it but it doesn't leak but my engine burns oil a lot is star burning oil after long time like 1850ml
A useful use for used briefs!! YES!! like the poster below said - WATCH THAT DAM TENSIONER NUT!! I lost mine down the engine depths and had to replace it with a ground down metric nut that cost me an hour to go and buy. Hold it in place with some device etc while you thread the tensioner bolt into it. Great vid BTW. You actually show the process, instead of "Step 1. remove XYZ.....???? Step 3. Now that XYZ are out, we simply go to the next step." Stay gold.
Great video, I watched it a minimum of 8 to 10 tomes. Very precise. What i like best is that you stated all the tools measurements in mm. Unlike other videos that listed them in inches. Which sent me unsuccessfully looking for them. Now that I have all my tools lets start. Again thank you for a great video.
speedkar99 yes, that’s my current problem. The valve wiggles but doesn’t seem to want to pull out. Let me know if you have any tips for pulling out the actual valve. Thanks.
Time >> 7.5min as I had trials with removing the solenoid- used extended nose vise grip, idler nut falling out - used threadlocker, and the reinstalling the darn belt - need better tool than two wrenches. Replaced the strainer assy filter due to an edge tear in mesh. Solved P1009 code and my daughter is very happy she saved some $$. Lesson is must use superior oil and always keep it topped up.
speedkar99 when I pulled it out, it was the same as urs😂. I just cleaned it. oh before this the small squared gasket was replaced like what you did. Thanks ☺️
I would have just replaced the screen. You can see how flat the gasket is, I don't see it staying sealed for very much longer. Clear and concise video though.
Running into this issue on my 2007 RDX now. It wasn't the screen, so I'm going to check the VTC valve and hope it's not the vtec solenoid. Your video was thorough, concise, and you covered everything. Thank you!
If anybody else has to do this on an RDX, you need to unbolt the ABS module, use something to prop it up, and unbolt the motor mount to swivel it out of the way. Then you can use a 1/4 10mm with an extension to just have enough room. It's an extremely tight squeeze. If you have large hands, you may need to support the engine and remove the other engine mount as well.
Awesome , thank you man , professional work , your are always the best , because of your honestly way to share your experience with your viewers , you are always highly appreciated , thanks a lot , Egyptian follower .
speedkar99 Hello,after I did this cleaning and put everything back, the revs on my car started going up and down like crazy. is that normal? o.O or its something else... actually revs stay on 1800 on parking and 1100 on R or D...
The early type VVT solenoid shown with the black rubber seal running between the valve lands often fails because of cross leaking across the seal and lands. It passed the tests given here but . . . Result is intake cam stuck advanced with very rough running and P1009 code. I got the new style valve without the rubber seals and those symptoms completely disappeared. I bought an aftermarket because Honda valve was on back order and it is working perfectly 3 months later.
Fantastic video, very good pace and no BS. Saved me a bunch of money and gave me the confidence to replace my solenoid today. Thanks! Only question: what's the part number for the underwear? :)
The vct solenoid was bad on the vehicle I was working on. I have been a professional auto tech for many years. I pulled the solenoid out to manually test it, valve moved freely and solenoid was strong. Usually the valve will stick or the solenoid would work intermittently or seem weak but the solenoid seemed to work fine but as soon as you start the engine the light would come on. I replaced the solenoid and it fixed it. The problem was the valve was worn allowing oil to pass through the valve when it was closed. So even if the solenoid tests good just replace it because it might just be worn out like mine was which could lead to miss diagnosing it as the cam adjuster/phaser.
So the vtc valve looks like it’s accessible without removing all the stuff for the first strainer. Would it hurt to only replace the vtc valve and the vetch solenoid without replacing the filter?
Please help. I have tested on battery the valve and it clicks in and out but supply connection measures 2.86volts on contact and 2.93 volts when engine running. Shouldn’t it be 12V?
Old Video but helping me in 2022....1st Honda.... I will try this first. I think this is the cheapest route to go. Hey if it doesn't work for me, on to the next step. I hope this works...$$$
I learned the hard way not to trust that test of applying 12v. I had a solenoid it was clean worked perfectly. I was going crazy trying to find the issue. It ended up being the solenoid after all. The can bypass internally.
I have a really bad rattle on cold starts but no codes and performance seems fine. Should I worry ? Should I wait til it throws codes or should I change this now?
I’m trying to changed mine, but it’s a tight fit, so I used a wrench because I don’t want to break the nut, what you think I should do ? Any information?
Two questions. -Is this overall easy to do? Looks sort of simple, and my experience with cars goes up to simple maintenance like oil changes, brake jobs, serpentine belt replacement and that kind of stuff. Shouldn't be a challenge for me right? -Is this code urgent? Like if this is ignored, will it be bad for the engine?
+BattlefrontZero Its easy, the tricky part is your working right up against the inside fender which makes it a bit tight. It wouldn't harm the engine too much, it may throw off the timing and cause it to idle rough which isn't good.
Dude seriously this is the best video I have seen that have to do with repairing something on a Honda/Acura. I got that engine code today and I was going crazy looking for videos on how to fix it and thankfully I came across yours cause it is great. What OBD scanner do you use I am going to have to get one to clear the code and was wondering which is the best one for me to get?
An oil control valve that has not come out before will not come out with a wiggle wiggle wiggle. The wiggle is easy. To get the valve out you may need to use a long needle nose pliers, making sure to only grasp metal and not plastic.
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I've seen alot of DIY vids in my time, but the way you record and edit yours is the best I've seen. Very professional- I'm usually fast forwarding through the dead frames but you took em' all out. Thanks for the effort!
+Jeff Petersen Thanks I'm glad you enjoyed my video style, check out the rest of my videos for more.
A-GREED...took the words right outta my mouth - always great how-to's and videography
Original Chris fix’s
Agreed it's great
@@speedkar99did you really need to remove the belt tensioner pulley? It looked as tho it ended up not being in the way?
This is probably the clearest, most concise and useful car repair video I have seen, and I have seen a lot. I watched it twice and took notes, everything was exactly as stated in the video. Thank you very much.
I'm glad you learned something new!
Right away I found a big huge problem with this video. Always throw my old underwear away. In a situation like this I would always use my wife's old underwear. They do the same job, they look prettier and they keep me in the proper frame of mind while I'm working on my car.
This is the best how to video I have ever seen on TH-cam. I'll be a follower for life.
My wife's panties wouldn't absorb much. Maybe if I needed a string or a face mask. In this case, my big ass underwear would diffinatley do the trick.
I agree, the video is well done and has been extremely helpful. Personally I use my old shirts that are damaged or no longer fit.
Amazing job on this video, and on the work you did. Pro level work. Master level shooting and editing! Thank you very much! I've picked up 5spd '05 CR-V about 10 months ago with 272K miles on it. Currently at 277K. So far, no CEL, and no issues with 2 v-tec components on the exterior of the engine. It's nice to see how "easily" they are to get to though.
Glad you enjoy my video style
Great video! I like that you differentiated between the Variable timing solenoid and Vtec Solenoid. At 5:03 you mention there was supposed to be an O-ring on the end, but that it might be stuck inside. I don't think so. When you buy the O-ring from the dealer online, they show an O-ring at the front in the drawing like you mentioned.That ring is already on the solenoid in your video, its the black ring farthest to the left that keeps the oil from spilling out to the side of the engine. Its the only O-ring for sale on that solenoid. Its also a good idea to replace the Vtec solenoid screen at the rear of the engine. I'm a fan of your channel, thumbs up!
Thanks for the tips!
So there is no O ring correct? I have to change the VTC solenoid on my 2004 Honda accord very soon
@@elkinposada6261 The O-ring is right there in the video at 5:03, its the black ring farthest to the left. The new solenoid should come with the O ring already installed on it. If your solenoid is leaking oil but it's still working fine, you can buy the O ring by itself from the dealer.
Thanks for the great video. I did this today on my 2.4L 2009 Honda Accord EX-L. Instead of just cleaning the filter screen, I replaced the screen itself and cleaned its housing. I wasn't able to remove the VVT Valve/Solenoid, as I imagine it hasn't been touched in almost 12 years and is stuck in there pretty good. Either way, after the screen cleaning, the noise from the actuator upon cold start up is now gone. In case others want to follow this video and run into the same issue as me, try a new filter screen replacement and see where it takes you. Thanks again, speedkar99!
Thank you! I love how you show a method to test whether the solenoid is working.
Glad to help
My car is a 2003 Honda Accord 2.4L. Thanks so much for the video. It was super informative and allowed me to complete the first task and put everything back together within 20min. The second part (taking out the VTC solenoid) took a bit longer because the connector/head broke off leaving the longer part inside. First I panicked but after some research found out that it was not uncommon for this to happen. First I took out the long plunger that moves in and out. It came out by hand. Then I Purchased a screw extractor set from Canadian tire. Put the largest #5 in the hole, tapped it a bit to get it to stick in the hole, started to work it back and forth and after a few minutes the rest came right out. Now I am just waiting on the new VTC solenoid to arrive, so I can install and finish the job.
Wow. That sucks. I suppose you might have some access to the solenoid if you took off the valve cover?
@@speedkar99 Thanks for the respond back. Unfortunately taking off the valve cover doesn't help. The only way to gain more room/access is to remove the side timing chain cover. But like I mentioned before if this ever happens to anyone where the head part of the VTC breaks leaving the long metal part in the hole. Don't worry, just buy a screw extractor set ($20) and you will be able to take it right out without having to remove anything additional. Good luck.. Thanks for the awsome step by step video.
After 6 years, got P1009 code again and repeated procedure outlined in video. This time VVT solenoid wouldn't come out. Put a screwdriver on side of solenoid and tapped it with a hammer. Thought that might loosen it, but that was mistake. The attachment is really weak! It's just bent metal. Broke off the external portion of the VVT solenoid. I can confirm that the long plunger that moves in and out of the solenoid will come out by hand. It's oily so you may need to wipe it off. It will also slide back in. So you may need to play with it a little, but it does comes out easy once you get it out far enough you can grip it. After removal of center plunger, followed advice re: screw extractor. Worked fine. I would add there isn't a lot of room to work. If I didn't put an extension on my socket wrench, there wasn't enough length to reach some bolt heads. If I put a short extension on the wrench, it was too long to operate in the small space. My solution was to use a 1/2" socket wrench with a 1/2-to-3/8" reducer, which gave me about an inch of extension instead of about 2" with the short extension. Thanks to @baberabbas11
just wanted to say thanks for the clear and concise video without any garbage music or intro - you also took the time to show the reassembly process instead of the usual "redo everything you first did backwards" nonsense.. cheers dude!
Short and to the point is my style, glad you enjoyed it
Oh crap! My wife threw away all my old underwear and bought me all new stuff for Christmas. So I wasn’t sure I would be able to get this job done. But I managed to figure out a solution; I took off the undies I was wearing and used them. I don’t think I would have been able to attempt this job had I been wearing boxer shorts. Finally, great video with lots of detail! Thank you speedkar99.
Great vid. I hate when people talk to much about stuff that has nothing to do with the task at hand. You gave the right information in the right amount. Nice!
Thanks. Short and sweet is how it's gotta be!
Just as a heads up to anyone doing this. For some reason the code wouldnt clear for me at first. I had to rev the engine a few times and it cleared for me. Thanks for the video man, I personally just did the VTEC cylinder and didnt do the strainer. Took me all of 10 minutes to complete!
Glad it helped
Excellent video! Images and descriptions are crystal clear with nice, tight editing. I have a slight oil leak at the VTC Valve (2008 Element), and am also planning to replace the serpentine belt and tensioner. I got all the info I need from your one video. Beautiful!
This is a great video. No extra BS. Right to the point and extremely easy to follow. I pulled my engine mount to give me more room, but I can see you didn't have to. Thanks for posting this.
Very informative video keep them coming. My Honda has the p10009 code also. It tends to turn on when my engine oil gets close to being time for a change. It will turn on when I start driving aggressively. However when I drive normal the code turns its self off. I used a scan tool to identify the code. Thanks for sharing your video!
Glad it helped
Thank you for the excellent video.
I cleaned the VTC valve on my 2004 Honda Accord with 132,600 miles, which had the p1009 code. I've driven it around 22 miles since the cleaning and the check engine light has not come back on yet. I will need to drive it more to be sure this procedure addressed the problem.
Here are a couple of comments: (1) the strainer looked pretty clean, but I cleaned it anyway; (2) testing the solenoid by applying 12V across the terminals took awhile because access to the terminals within the connector housing is very tight. It is too small for alligator clips. I finally located a couple of long probe pins that worked okay, but one has to be careful not to touch them together and short the circuit; (3) during reassembly, replacing the bolt that holds the solenoid on is tricky because you can't see the hole, and replacing the idler pulley is also a little tricky as you have to hold the nut that receives the bolt in position in the back of the housing while you thread the bolt or the nut pops out. There is not much room to get your hand in there. I popped the nut out once and it took 10 minutes to find the bolt as it landed on the plate below the engine.
Since the solenoid works and neither the solenoid nor the screen seemed dirty, I'm not sure why the cleaning solves the problem. But if it works, I guess that's what's important.
+Richard Wilhelm Thanks. My solenoid didn't seem that dirty either, but I drove thousands of km after and didn't get a p1009.
That nut can be a pain if you lose it, mine was rusted/crusted on there so it didn't fall out.
Did you change your O-Ring? I think mine started leaking after cleaning my solenoid.
I didn't replace anything. I will check for leaks. I hope its okay as I would prefer not to repeat the procedure to replace the O-ring. Thanks for the tip and thanks again for the video.
Clear and straight to the point. This may have just saved me a lot of time, money and frustration.
Thanks
Great tutorial, my GF's car had a rough idle and p1009 code. I was able to complete this repair in about an hour without having previously work on this car. Thanks!
Glad it helped
What an excellent mechanic. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Thank you very much for this video.
You are welcome. I'm not a mechanic I'm an engineer
Just want to leave a comment and say you did a fantastic job on this from diagnosis all the way to completion and the editing is perfect! Thank you!
I have a pilot - not sure if it is the same engine but i am sure it is similar. Very well done video. Very thorough and very detailed. Gave me great understanding of the principals - should be able to translate this to any engine provided i can find the location of the solenoid and strainer.
Thanks I'm glad you learned something
Seriously one of the best Honda Videos i have seen. 1 thing and this might be my OCD but
don't neglect to add Anti-seize to your bolts when you reuse them. Especially for bolts going into the block in hard to access places.
Thanks and you are right about antiseize when the bolt goes into steel
DesertFernweh yup makes me cringe! 👍🏽
I wish all videos were as clear and concise, and a s well explained as this one.
Thanks. I'm glad you appreciate my video style.
It has helped a bunch!
have a good one!@@speedkar99
Thanks for the video. Did the job today and it’s was easy. Only thing that I got snagged on was I broke the screw holding down the ground wire trying to remove it from the engine mount. Going to replace the ground wire with another of the same gauge but longer and going to attach the other end to the engine where the power steering pump line is bolted near the firewall.
Note: My VTC solenoid was stuck in the engine. I had to use a Channellock plier to wiggle it out.
Great video! Probably the most in depth I've seen. I'm sure this'll help thousands of folks.
Glad it helped you
One of the best DIY videos I've seen.... Thanks for your help. Much appreciated
another win for a fellow Canadian driveway mechanic. thanks for sharing your knowledge.
You are welcome!
just an update. My co-worker has a 2009 Honda Accord. She has a bad mechanic that basically told her to start shopping for a used car. Because of your video, and my tools, I was able to remove her solenoid, spray it down with brake fluid, test it on the battery (clicky/clicky), reinstall and now her Check Engine Light (CEL) is gone. a couple hours of elbow grease, some dirty finger nails, and I look like a hero because of your video. Thanks once again.
I did exactly what you did and the problem came back immediately
Time to replace the solenoid
THIS IS AN ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC PRESENTATION BRO! TO THE POINT AND CLEAR! I AM CLEANING MINE TOMORROW AS MY 07 ACCORD SHOW BOTH P2646 AND P1009... IT ALSO STALLED AT A STOPLIGHT YESTERDAY... THANKS FOR THIS VID - SUPER HELPFUL!
Glad it helped
Great video and professionally done. As it turned out all I really needed to do was add oil. Glad I did not have to go through this, but your video gave me confidence I could do it when it becomes necessary. Again, great video!
Good to know. VTC is highly dependant on oil pressure
Excellent DIY video; my 14mm pulley bolt is stuck. Open end, even Flare nut wrench are stripping the bolt head. Thx alot impact wrench using shop guy.
Far the best tutorial video i ve watched in my entire life! He explains everything, he shows exactly what tou need to do and he doesnt lose time shit talking!! Instantly suscribed!
+Geo Gabri thanks, why waste time, short and sweet is how it should be. Check out my other videos for more!
speedkar99 will do m8 thanks 👏👌
speedkar99, I cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when removing and replacing the pulley tensioner. the nut for the pulley fell out when I first removed the tensioner and I did not realize it until I went to reinstall. When I spotted the nut perilously leaning on a pulley, my son tried to be helpful and retrieve it, but only succeeded in knocking it into the splash shield. Luckily, I was able to get it. I used a piece of tape to hold the nut in place on the tensioner, but the tape didn't hold and now the nut has completely disappeared. It would be an easy engineering fix to capture the nut in the tensioner to avoid this sort of thing. Anyway, thanks for the great video!
You need a magnetic pickup tool my friend they have saved my ass many times
Great job with the video. Thank you for posting it. I can tell it took a lot of time to do and those of us muddling through our car repairs during the apocalypse thank you!
Glad you found it helpful
Out. Standing video. This is hands down the best of these type of video I have ever seen. Thank you.
Need to say, great video. Helped me know the steps needed, except for getting the VTC solenoid out. Mine was sized in. The two parts separated. Might have been due to no room. Ended up having to take my master cylinder off, engine mount. Should just do that to make more room as part of the steps. Cause my solenoid broke apart, had to take the valve cover off and push it out from the inside, replace valve gasket. After everything is back together and a fresh oil change, it's working great.
Glad it helped. Damn your VTC Solenoid was really stuck in there eh! At least it's not a blind hole and u can push it out.
You saved me $485 in labor at the dealer!!! Thank You!!!
+201Bmoney glad it helped you
speedkar99 thank you so much for this video it's so helpful
I need your advice
In my Honda Accord 8th this Valve has little bit oil around it but it doesn't leak but my engine burns oil a lot
is star burning oil after long time like 1850ml
Top shelf! Easily one of the top videos for doing this. No fooling around. Kudo’s man.
Thanks man
A useful use for used briefs!!
YES!! like the poster below said - WATCH THAT DAM TENSIONER NUT!! I lost mine down the engine depths and had to replace it with a ground down metric nut that cost me an hour to go and buy. Hold it in place with some device etc while you thread the tensioner bolt into it.
Great vid BTW. You actually show the process, instead of "Step 1. remove XYZ.....???? Step 3. Now that XYZ are out, we simply go to the next step."
Stay gold.
Send me those used briefs and I will show you what truly used briefs REALLY look like.
+dnl machine haha
You have some spares?
+dnl machine thanks for the feedback!
Great video, I watched it a minimum of 8 to 10 tomes. Very precise.
What i like best is that you stated all the tools measurements in mm. Unlike other videos that listed them in inches. Which sent me unsuccessfully looking for them.
Now that I have all my tools lets start.
Again thank you for a great video.
Your great easy explanation and that's all. Nice! I did the same and everything works perfectly fine. Thanks my friend. Nice job
Glad this video helped to fix your car.
What a great job showing this procedure. Oil is a quart low but not afraid to attempt this with the 05vcrv. Thnks
Very well made demonstrative video. This gives me confidence that I can make an attempt to fix it by myself. Thanks!
Very well done and excellent editing! It kept my attention the entire time. Lots of good details, too!
Thanks
I cracked up when I saw the odometer at the end. Well done!
Basic. To the point. Awesome. Superb editing. There's a freezing wind storm outside though, so I'll have to wait to do this, lol.
Dude, excellent video. I wish all DIYs were this well done.
This is EXACTLY the problem with my car. Thank you so much for uploading. Helped a lot.
You need to upload a class on tutorial editing sir. Well done and thank you.
I do. Check out speedkar100, my other channel
very well demonstrated
u made it look so easy
+JASON KAM it is easy...except pulling out the actual valve
speedkar99 yes, that’s my current problem. The valve wiggles but doesn’t seem to want to pull out. Let me know if you have any tips for pulling out the actual valve. Thanks.
Clear and concise video with superior description. A bit of humor with the old underwear and bolt loosing
grunts worked well.
Thanks for the awesome feedback
Time >> 7.5min as I had trials with removing the solenoid- used extended nose vise grip, idler nut falling out - used threadlocker, and the reinstalling the darn belt - need better tool than two wrenches. Replaced the strainer assy filter due to an edge tear in mesh. Solved P1009 code and my daughter is very happy she saved some $$. Lesson is must use superior oil and always keep it topped up.
This was an excellent video. It has to be one of the best ones on you tube. Thank you
Thanks 😊 Ive successfully replaced the gastekt with your nice vedio. 😊
Thanks I'm glad it worked for you. Did the O-ring come out with the VTC valve?
speedkar99 when I pulled it out, it was the same as urs😂. I just cleaned it. oh before this the small squared gasket was replaced like what you did. Thanks ☺️
I would have just replaced the screen. You can see how flat the gasket is, I don't see it staying sealed for very much longer. Clear and concise video though.
True
Now I know that I should not throw my old under wear.. Its pretty useful.
😂😂😂😂😂👍!
Can't Thank you enough sir! Excellent and did not waste time with unnecessary chit chat!
Running into this issue on my 2007 RDX now. It wasn't the screen, so I'm going to check the VTC valve and hope it's not the vtec solenoid.
Your video was thorough, concise, and you covered everything. Thank you!
If anybody else has to do this on an RDX, you need to unbolt the ABS module, use something to prop it up, and unbolt the motor mount to swivel it out of the way. Then you can use a 1/4 10mm with an extension to just have enough room. It's an extremely tight squeeze. If you have large hands, you may need to support the engine and remove the other engine mount as well.
Awesome , thank you man , professional work , your are always the best , because of your honestly way to share your experience with your viewers , you are always highly appreciated , thanks a lot , Egyptian follower .
Glad it helped
Thank you for this video! It helped me clean out my vtc screen and control arm on my Element. But man, you make it look so easy, lol.
It's not that easy since the clearance is too tight
This is what I was looking for bro...thanks for sharing.
Great, thanks.
speedkar99 Hello,after I did this cleaning and put everything back, the revs on my car started going up and down like crazy. is that normal? o.O or its something else... actually revs stay on 1800 on parking and 1100 on R or D...
This was a very good video, very detailed. Thanks for the information Brother...
You are welcome!!
This was a very well edited video, good job bro. Thanks!
You are welcome
The early type VVT solenoid shown with the black rubber seal running between the valve lands often fails because of cross leaking across the seal and lands. It passed the tests given here but . . . Result is intake cam stuck advanced with very rough running and P1009 code. I got the new style valve without the rubber seals and those symptoms completely disappeared. I bought an aftermarket because Honda valve was on back order and it is working perfectly 3 months later.
thank u bro. just changed my solenoid and filter using this video
Quick and to the point!!! You are great thanks for sharing
Awesome thanks
Fantastic video, very good pace and no BS. Saved me a bunch of money and gave me the confidence to replace my solenoid today. Thanks! Only question: what's the part number for the underwear? :)
Haha
Just go to your brothers room when he's not home and grab the underwear. He doesn't need it as bad as you
Your videos will help me replacing my o ring
Hope it works out for you, mine still leaked.
speedkar99 what? Seriously, mybe you have another leak?
What is the name of the cleaner product?
It's just brake kleen
great job i'm sure you have lots of high 5's on this and trust your other videos are great as well - pro job!
The vct solenoid was bad on the vehicle I was working on. I have been a professional auto tech for many years. I pulled the solenoid out to manually test it, valve moved freely and solenoid was strong. Usually the valve will stick or the solenoid would work intermittently or seem weak but the solenoid seemed to work fine but as soon as you start the engine the light would come on. I replaced the solenoid and it fixed it. The problem was the valve was worn allowing oil to pass through the valve when it was closed. So even if the solenoid tests good just replace it because it might just be worn out like mine was which could lead to miss diagnosing it as the cam adjuster/phaser.
Outstanding video, thank you! I did exactly this; cleaned my screen and solenoid and put them back in and the issue has been fixed!
So the vtc valve looks like it’s accessible without removing all the stuff for the first strainer. Would it hurt to only replace the vtc valve and the vetch solenoid without replacing the filter?
Finally found this video exactly what I needed thanks!!
Glad it helped
Please help. I have tested on battery the valve and it clicks in and out but supply connection measures 2.86volts on contact and 2.93 volts when engine running. Shouldn’t it be 12V?
Nice video, thanks for being thorough. Hope this gets me where I wanna be.
Glad it helped
Old Video but helping me in 2022....1st Honda.... I will try this first. I think this is the cheapest route to go. Hey if it doesn't work for me, on to the next step. I hope this works...$$$
Glad it helped so many years later
great video...straightforward and clear.
Thanks
Thanks for the video. I hope this will fix my issue. Great detail.
I now see what I've been doing wrong. I haven't been using my underwear as a rag whahahaaa...
That's how it works!
Nice one i have learned a lot.next time I'll do it my self.!
nice job !!! bro , but i would have cleaned off the flaking paint on the top pan before i removed the vct valve. keep up the great videos
Your welcome
Wow, excellent guide. So glad I found your channel.
Thanks for subscribing. Enjoy
Red underwear? Are those FLASH underwear?! Lol! Great video
Great video and nice and fast without boring crap!
That's what it should be
I learned the hard way not to trust that test of applying 12v. I had a solenoid it was clean worked perfectly. I was going crazy trying to find the issue. It ended up being the solenoid after all. The can bypass internally.
I have a really bad rattle on cold starts but no codes and performance seems fine. Should I worry ? Should I wait til it throws codes or should I change this now?
I’m trying to changed mine, but it’s a tight fit, so I used a wrench because I don’t want to break the nut, what you think I should do ? Any information?
Great job I preciate u time to explain everything amazing job.
Glad to help
Great video. Got all the way to accessing my VTC solenoid, but it wouldn’t come out. Seems to be stuck. What should I do?
Mine was stuck too. Had to keep wriggling and prying
What symptom did you have that alerted you to clean the vvt valve? Other than the code
You took that out very easily, mine’s a bit stuck, what can I do?
Thank you very much for this video..it saved my ass
+Miles Hogsed hey I'm glad it helped!!
You rock dude!
Two questions.
-Is this overall easy to do? Looks sort of simple, and my experience with cars goes up to simple maintenance like oil changes, brake jobs, serpentine belt replacement and that kind of stuff. Shouldn't be a challenge for me right?
-Is this code urgent? Like if this is ignored, will it be bad for the engine?
+BattlefrontZero Its easy, the tricky part is your working right up against the inside fender which makes it a bit tight.
It wouldn't harm the engine too much, it may throw off the timing and cause it to idle rough which isn't good.
Excellent video production quality, and clear instructions. Thanks. Didn't make any improvement in my problem, but easy to follow.
+Robert Carrier I'm glad it helped you understand
Dude seriously this is the best video I have seen that have to do with repairing something on a Honda/Acura. I got that engine code today and I was going crazy looking for videos on how to fix it and thankfully I came across yours cause it is great. What OBD scanner do you use I am going to have to get one to clear the code and was wondering which is the best one for me to get?
Glad it helped
@@speedkar99 what obd scanner do you recommend?
Might this fix the cold start tapping.
This is more information than the dealer will ever give you. I’m going to start with this
Lilljoescratch
no to stop that you need to replace the
actuator (camshaft actuator)
Lucas oil stabilizer quiets my valves
Valve lash is another one
Good explaind my friend, you're a good teacher !!!!
An oil control valve that has not come out before will not come out with a wiggle wiggle wiggle. The wiggle is easy. To get the valve out you may need to use a long needle nose pliers, making sure to only grasp metal and not plastic.
Good tip
Great detail!!! thank for posting this.
You are welcome