I'm baffled that there were 15 thumbs down, as this is the clearest instructional video I have ever seen... all the steps are shown using great camera angles, good lighting and good sound. Well done, and thank you, as I have an '07 Ridgeline that needs the same thing.
What an exceptionally clear and well-made video! I’ll be doing this job this weekend on an MDX. I’m so glad I watched this first. You are an excellent instructor.
Thank you sir for making this video. I watched your video multiple times and successfully changed my knock sensor. It's was difficult since my vehicle is really old. I ended up replacing the three fuel injectors too. The check engine and vtm4 lights disappeared. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video. I just did this on my 2005 Pilot today. You are definitely more calm making this video than I was following it. For anyone who attempts this, the care to not drop the fuel rail bolts cannot be stressed enough - I dropped them multiple times but luckily was able to recover by using a grabber tool. In any event, I was successful with your help.
@@DIYNorth Yes. I actually have a telescoping tool with a magnet on the end and a grabber tool and used both. Truth be told, I dropped more than just the fuel rail screws - I actually dropped my 12mm socket down in there as well. Also, I did end up taking the power steering pump off to remove that one bolt from the lower manifold. Again, thanks so much for the video. This was really my first venture into literally any car maintenance - I have never even changed my own oil. But your video was clear and detailed enough to give me the confidence to attempt this myself. Saved me a bunch of money - I came out ahead even with the tools (torque wrenches, etc.) I had to purchase.
Awesome tutorial. I just finished replacing the knock sensor wire in my aunt’s 2010 Pilot and this was an invaluable resource. I actually managed to replace the wire without taking lower manifold off. I loosened the fuel rail and snaked the new wire under the lower manifold and used some needle nose pliers to push the connector on. Thank you for the video.
The lower intake manifold was near impossible to get loose. I ended up working a 24 mm socket back in there on top of the sensor and got it loose. I was then able to get it out and the new one started. I put the 24 mm socket back on and was able to tighten it up. Then I had to work the socket back out. What a pain. Other than that lower intake manifold, the rest of it was pretty easy. I never did get it out. Your video shows it in one scene and then out the next scene. Overall your video is what inspired me to replace my knock sensor. Thanks!
Sorry the intake was a pain. Everything in this video was smooth because I had the entire top of the engine apart a couple weeks prior due to damaged valves....so I already went through the struggle of really stuck parts.
just did this job on my mom's 05 pilot yesterday! your video by far gives the clearest instructions on how to do it.....I did have a little trouble removing the fuel rail cuz they were gunked up with dirt pretty bad and also the fuel rail bolts required intense focus not to drop them lol. Thanks for your help!
Just finished this job on our 2008 Pilot. You really do a good job showing the easy way to do this. FWIW, I did not initially buy the new wiring harness as recommended. The old one was actually the problem as it had disintegrated when I touched it. So I had a couple day delay waiting for one as none of the local suppliers had one. Should have listened!
I was looking for valve cover gaskets replacement but this will do just fine,,,,,Such a great step by step instructions for DIY like myself......many thanks
Great video! I just did this on my 2005 Pilot after a rat ate the knock sensor harness. Here are some notes/observations for anyone else who may need to do this job: - If you're only replacing the harness like I did, you can do it without removing the lower manifold, but you will need to completely remove the fuel rail so MAKE SURE YOU RELIEVE FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE STARTING (pull the fuel pump fuse while the car is running and let it stall, then maybe crank a few times for good measure). I did it by removing the car's end of the harness from its metal tab (for extra wiggle room), plugging the brown end of the new harness into the sensor using long pliers to hold the tab down and push it in, then snaking the black end to the other side of the air pipe that's in the way. - My fuel injectors refused to come out with just a tug and a wiggle, so I used the trick from this video: th-cam.com/video/ijjDFRrghKo/w-d-xo.html (I was able to use a socket extension I had lying around instead of another pry bar). - My throttle body refused to come off the upper manifold after 18 years of being stuck on, so I was able to take off the upper manifold with it still on. You just need to make sure ALL the hoses and wires are unplugged, including the 2 coolant hoses on the bottom (these are a pain to remove because they are mostly hidden, but doable - just be sure to put a shop towel or a rag below them while taking them off because coolant will likely spill out). - When resetting the fault code after doing this, make sure the ignition is ON but the engine isn't running, or the code won't be reset. Imagine my disappointment when I initially cleared the code with the car running after spending hours on this job and it didn't clear.
Great tutorial! I got a bid from the stealership of $721 for just the wire. I was able to replace the sensor (cause I was in there anyway), wire and serpentine belt for less than $100. Like you said about 3 hours of work, even with a busted bolt I had to drill out and extract. I wound up removing the power steering pump, gave me a little better access to the difficult intake bolt. Thanks for your work!
Whoa, $720 is a lot. It's a bit of an intimidating job, but really it's just a ton of bolts to remove then replace. It's not like you have to calibrate or fine tune anything. Glad you found the video useful
This was beyond helpful, one of the best repair videos I’ve seen! I have to do this on my 2004 Honda Pilot, I haven’t done it yet but if I were to do it at a mechanic shop, it would have costed around 400 dollars! The hardest part is going to be the deep socket for me.
@@BlasterTheMaster I'm not sure, but I would exercise caution on that. The 2004 has a lot of different parts compared to the 2005. There are some parts that cross over, but definately not everything. The 05,06,07 are more closely aligned as I understand things
I appreciate the video. I am having no luck finding videos for my 2010 Honda Crosstour with the 3.5 I-Vtec VCM, or any good videos on other repairs for this car. The engines look the most similar, from any other video I have seen. I have a Haynes manual, so your video has given me the hope for success while also trying to follow this crummy book which starts you on one page, has you flip to another chapter to remove something, then flip to another chapter to remove something else. I already see the tightening pattern is different in my manual, but torque is the same but I am hoping the set up is similar. I had to look up the 104 in lbs you mentioned to get 8.6 ft lbs. Again, I appreciate your tips, including using bags, and other things.
I don't know much about the Crosstour, but some quick google searching indicates that I have a J35A6 Engine and you have a J35Z (some pilots also have J35Z variants). I am positive that there are more similarities than differences between the two engines, but would look at your manual for things like torque specs and tightening sequence. My thought on this is that you have some options on what you remove and the order that its done, but ultimately you need to end up in the same place. Best of luck with your repairs.
I feel your pain with the Haynes books - a wealth of information except for whatever it is you actually need! The bouncing-around from different sections would be fine with me if all the answers where all included. btw: how do you like the Crosstour (aside from this repair of course)? I have been interested in them and wish they still made them.
The knock sensor can easily be replaced without removing the lower intake. You need to be able to fit a thin wall 24mm or 15/16” socket between the intake runners and the knock sensor comes out.
I believe that could be possible. Allegedly you can also remove the power steering pump and do a side attack, but it looks pretty tight in that direction.
Nice, I used to go to that state pretty frequently when I live in Thunder Bay. We went Snowboarding/Skiing in Lutsen once or twice a year and we would go to Duluth/Superior as well.
Great video but there is a way to take 2 ps bolts off the bracket then 2 12mm bolts on the bracket. You then can put your hand in the valley, un clip the sub harness took ten mins to disassemble. You can do this instead of the upper plenum and fuel rail. Once you pop a fuel rail out you should replace the o rings also. All ps bolts are 16ft lbs of torque per 06-08 pilot.
@@DIYNorth my bad it was the harness for me but you could with the rt tool set up, the torquing would be a problem. A small adjustable or ratcheting speed wrench would get it.
This video is awesome!! I need to replace the knock sensor on my 08 Odyssey tomorrow. I believe they have the same engine as the Pilot. Def going to use this video as a guide. Wish me luck!!
I'm not sure if its the exact same engine, as honda has different configurations of this V6, but I'm confident that it is extremely similar, particularly the major components. Best of luck in your endeavours.
My Haynes manual says 16 foot pounds for the lower intake manifold bolts. I couldn't get a torque wrench in there though, so I just guesstimated with a ratchet and a wrench. Turned out fine for me.
Thanks for the video! Great explanation! I found a problem with the knock sensor while I'm repsring the water passage and the pipe. Do you think it is possible to replace the knock sensor having taken away the coolant passage and the pipe? Thanks again!
I'm really not sure. I would definitely try though. I'd be interested to know if its possible. Some say you can just remove the power steering and get at it that way as well. I haven't tested that theory though.
OUTSTANDING JOB ON THIS VIDEO!!! Best on the web!!! I found the knock sensor bracket easier to install with a 1/4” ratchet + 2&3” extensions. Also, Any reason you didn’t disconnect the wiring harness to the injectors? Made me a little nervous stretching it to slide the injector base underneath but managed as you said. All went well and codes cleared😀👍. Now to get rid of previous issue with Random misfires on all cylinders. Thank you again!!
I just didn't want to take the pressure out of the fuel system, and since everything fit without doing so that is the route that I took. Good luck with the random misfires.
Neither. Yes there was a code, but the top of the sensor broke off completely and the cable couldnt connect. There was no question about what the problem was in my situation. It didnt make the engine knock though.
I think that it could, but I'm not sure. I would suggest putting a obd 2 reader on the vehicle and pull the codes. I found the vtm light could go off for many reasons, or seemingly no reason.
Good question, but I'm not too sure. Lots of PB Blaster for sure (or other penetrant). The good news is that once they are out you should have no problem getting some new bolts at a scrap yard. The dealership would also probably be cheap.
I'm not sure. In general probably, but they made a lot of changes so it might not be accurate for torque spec and some other things. You might want a repair manual before trying
The thumbs down for this video are from the Honda dealerships . I will never buy another Honda again. They are built to fail . Ask yourself why do they put all these unecessary sensors and useless components it's to rob us and waste our time. Looking forward to the deluge.
Your video is an awesome help and really good to understand, thank you. I have two questions where your answer would be highly appreciated: 1.in the video it looks like there would be three layers of gasket underneath and above the spacer part. Is that supposed to be or did you just put more ? 2. I'm am currently traveling through Brasil with a 2006 Honda pilot that I brought in Chile. Now my knock sensor cable has been chewed off by mice and it would take me ages to import spare parts because the car was never sold in brasil. Do you think it is possible to reuse the gaskets ? Maybe with some gasket sealant paste ? On your video they do look quite thick and strong. Again thank you for your help 👏
1. They are single gaskets but they have 3 layers to them. They are commonly called Multi Layered Steel (MLS) gaskets. If you bought it, it will be a single item though. I bought that one as a kit, but if I recall the one that was in my Honda Pilot was the same MLS gasket in that location. 2. I'm sure that conventional wisdom would say don't re-use a gasket. That said I re-used every gasket in the video without sealant and I had no issues. I had already torqued everything down on the engine build and noticed the knock sensor had sheered off after the fact. So although the gaskets where only a few days old, they had been fully torqued down and then got reused. If you just need to do the cable you might be able to just reach through and disconnect it. The power steering pump might need to be un bolted and pushed to the side but that would be an easier process.
What a true legend you are 👏thank you i didn't expect to get a response that fast. I was also thinking to try and replace it without taking apart the air intake but didn't manage just yet. Will probably have to wait for the new year to get a mechanic to lend me some tools. Don't really want to risk it driving all the way ( 3300 km ) back to Chile to get the spare parts. I will keep you updated. Until then a happy new years celebration
@@DIYNorth i would have one more question for you 😬 do you remember if the sensor enters directly into the block ? Mine broke the same way as yours did and I am not sure if I can take it out and drive without the sensor for some days. Greetings from Brasil
@@vincentobarto sorry I'm not sure. It is threaded into the top of the block, but I dont know what is below it, if anything other than it's own threaded pocket. I dont know what would happen if it was removed and you tried to drive it without putting a new one back in.
Really good video. Once of the few I can find. Did you replace both of the manifold gaskets? I only happen to buy one. Also is the sensor accessible without removing the lower manifold if you want to just replace the sensor? Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. When I did this video I didn't replace any of the gaskets, they were all reused. That said, all of the gaskets were new because I did a rebuild of my front cylinder head and did not notice that the knock sensor was damaged at the time. So I had put everything back together and then immediately had to take it apart again (thus I didn't want to go out and buy more gaskets for a second time). I have read that some metal gaskets can be reused, but I recommend you do your own research on that based on what you are pulling off your vehicle. As for reaching the sensor some other way, it might be possible to pull the power steering pump and come at it from the side, but I'm not sure. If you have a tool that can reach in and remove it like that, then that would be an easier way to do it. If you are taking the top down approach as I did I would say that you need to remove everything as was done in the video.
Good, luck. Its not that bad, just a lot of bolts to remove. Some say you can get access to it from the side as well. I'm not sure that is the case for all engines though
Update i finish the job today everything came out good no more check engine, disconnect your ground cable from battery hit your horn for 30 seconds and that will reset your OEM Computer . Thank you brother I salute you from San Juan Puerto Rico 🇵🇷
Excellent video ...i being doung the same thing ...i got same codes and engine and vtm4 light on ...where did you buy your parts ...and i guess since i got all that manifolds off its a good time to do the plugs
I look around for deals on parts. I do bulk orders off RockAuto but for lower value items i might just go to local dealer. I try to balance shipping cost against how urgently I need the part as well. If the dealer/parts store is within $20-30 I'll go there, if I can save $40 + then I'll order the parts as long as I'm not desperate.
I kind of talking myself up. I was actually using Great Value Zipper Seal sand which bags from walmart. TH-cam doesnt pay well enough to afford ziplock brand. But yes....they help a lot.
Great video! Do you know why the vtm4 light comes on with the check engine light? What would the the 4wd have anything to do with the check engine light?
I found the VTM-4 light to be a bit of a mystery warning light at times. I would recommend getting the code checked and get that fixed. It will probably solve the VTM-4 light issues as well.
Mice are the worst kind of people. If you look close at the wire it actually has pictures of little mice on the grey plastic covering. Apparently this is a problem that is more common than you'd think.
I’d this similar to a 2008 Honda Pilot and how long did it typically take you lol I know the video makes it seem faster also do you recommend I get new gaskets?
It took me 3-4 hours, but I had just torn the engine down and put it back together so I had a pretty good idea of where everything was. I would recommend you have the whole day free. Also I would work on a day when Honda is open incase you break something unexpected and need to run out and grab a bolt or sensor wire. For gaskets I would recommend that they get replaced. Some gaskets are metal and some people say you can reuse them but you probably shouldn't. I didn't put new gaskets in for this video because I had just replaced all the gaskets a couple days before and figured I would roll the dice (it turned out fine for me). I just bought the entire engine gasket kit from Rock Auto. If you are doing a bunch of work the full kit will probably save you money. If you are only doing this job, then maybe just get what you need.
To be totally honest if the check engine and VTM-4 lights were not on I wouldn't have noticed; seemed to be operating fine. Though I would be reluctant to say you should drive it like that. Thanks for the feedback on the video.
Thanks for the feedback. The engines will be very close. They are both J35 Engines, but I think the Pilot is a J35A4 and the Ridgeline is a J35A9. There is obviously something different, but they might be so close it could be hard to tell what the change is.
Thanks for making and posting this video. Would a 2008 Honda Odyssey engine be the same? Or, had the engine model changed between 2005 and 2008? Thank you!
My understanding is that it depends on which odyssey you have. My 2005 Pilot has a J35A6 engine. The 2008 LX and EX version of the odyssey also should have a J35A6, but the EX-L odyssey from 2008 has a J35A7. (so say wikipedia) I'm not sure what the difference is or if it would impact where the knock sensor is.
What is the labor price in a shop for this? I just charged a lady to do this on a 2015 Kia Optima $200. Took 90 minutes. This looks to be about the same time.
shop hour rates can range from about 130 to 170 Canadian. $200 might be a bit under what I would expect to pay for this. If you are talking $200 USD then that is probably about right.
Could you? Yes you absolutely could. However then you will need to disconnect the coolant lines that go to the throttle body. So if you want to go that route fine, but I think the 4 bolts are less of a hassle than dumping coolant and potentially introducing air into the coolant system. But to each their own.
I am getting same codes and lights on my 08 RL. However when the lights are on the transmission does not shift right and vehicle struggles to pull over 40 mph. May be in a limp mode, I'm not sure. After changing the sensor did it fix your issues? Did the VTM-4 light go out? When I clear my lights the RL drives fine. I examined mine and it has the newer wire with rodent protector on it. I'm going to replace anyway. any other suggestions to check? Only other codes I have are O2 sensors. Thanks
Yes changing the sensor fixed the issue and caused the VTM-4 light to stop coming on. I don't think the 2005 has a limp mode, but maybe a 2008 has that feature. The O2 sensor could also cause drive issues.
No it seemed to be fine without that. I think that if you adjust the plate by hand you'd need to do a throttle body relearn process, but in my instance everything fired up without any issue
Thanks for responding i was asking because when I started the car after a few minutes there was a nooking sound,something around the trhrottle body,i going to do relearn process to se what happens,thanks again for your great videos.
@@carlosvazques3276 One thing that helped me out when I had a noisy/rough idle was cleaning the EGR Valve. I did a video on that as well. Its a very easy job to do. (it might not help you though)
That job can be done without removing the intake manifold. If you live in an area where you have mice/rats, they love to build nests under the intake and they will chew through the sensor wire because it is in the way leave the engine cover off. They live to chew through the wire that goes to the sensor.
I've heard people say that it can be done with the manifold on. I'm curious how well the anti rodent coating on the wire works. Maybe they treat the OEM wire with peanut oil.
Everything went really well until I got to the lower intake manifold. The bolts that it sits on won’t allow me to remove the lower manifold . Any tips?
Did you take all 5 bolts off, including the one I point out at the 6:30 point in the video? The first time I did this I didn't know about that sneaky 5th Bolt that you can't really see and I ended up yanking on it for quite a while before giving up and doing some research. There really shouldn't be much holding it down if all the bolt are out. I would just be careful not to scratch the surfaces that the gaskets contact. Some light taps with a rubber mallet is usually my go-to move to free up anything that is stuck.
U did menstion is 5 Bolt hold Tha lower intake manifol ,But in Tha vídeo You did show Tha location the Bolt is is Tha back on Tha direction of Tha driver side .i was strogoling trying to remove until i faund out Is one Bolt behing.
@@234indicador_ No problem. This is the second time I did this job in the video, but the first time I did it I only took off the 4 bolts and had a crowbar and everything out trying to get that manifold to move. I got really mad, then I found that one sneaky nut.
@@DIYNorth yeah it happend to the same ,i remove 4 out i was trying whit Tha bar .i get fustrade and i Went to look more videos .thats whene o faund Tha Bolt hiring.i still in the prosses to put evething back.
That's so strange how my sensor was in half like this also...And I put the steering pump back on before taking off manifold,it's going back on with 4 bolts,it'll be fine I'm sure
Good evening.. I have a problem that maybe you can help me with? I have a 2002 Acura MDX that I’ve replaced the knock sensor “4” times now. I replaced the wire connector from the sensor to the harness. I even try a hole new wire outside the harness directly to the inside harness that connects to the computer, if that makes sense, to eliminate any problems that the harness may have. Nothing! The check engine and the vtm lights still come on no matter what I do... any suggestions will help. Thanks
Sorry, I'm not sure. Obviously the knock sensor should not fail that many times without a problem somewhere else in the vehicle. Best of luck in tracking down the problem.
I have two questions... Will this be identical or very similar to the 07 Accord v6 engine.... & 2nd is it a must to replace the gaskets once you take it apart or can you gently reuse them?
It should be similar. they don't have the same engine. The Pilot has a J35 and the accord has a J30. The idea will be similar, but I couldn't speak to things like torque spec. It's not advised to reuse the gasket, even though in this video I did in fact reuse the gaskets. (but they were about a week old) If you are going to reuse a gasket the material is important. Plastic and rubber probably would fare worse and might even break apart when removing them. The ones that I removed are multi-layer metal gaskets and I feel much more confident reusing those. But condition is everything and must be considered. You can buy full gasket kits from Rock Auto with every gasket in your car for a pretty fair price.
I took a look at my Haynes Pilot manual but it unfortunately is only for the 2003 to 2007 model years of the Pilot. It's probably similar, but I'm not sure if it is the same. If you're doing a bunch of work on the Pilot or plan to start doing a bunch of work, ordering a 1 Year subscription to the correct online Haynes manual (or similar company) might be a good idea. I find they are worth getting just for the torque specs alone.
@@DIYNorth got ya nice work,I'm currently down in that area on my mdx and gonna do a valve adj,but I'm gonna leave it all open and get as many new replacement parts while it's open,fuel injectors n rails,knock sens,idk,what else is good to replace?
Dont have to take all that off , can get it out from under the manifold , its like a 1 hr job , take off power sterring pump , and reach in with open endcwrench ,
Wow...does Rock Auto deliver to where you are? I'm in Canada but get a lot of stuff through the USA. I think that the car culture exists to a far greater extent in the US than anywhere else as a result of their cheap car part prices. Amazon is usually good too, but get name brand parts from them. I bought a very cheap sensor from Amazon and it failed very fast.
@@waleederbi8592 I would have thought prices in Saudi Arabia would be similar, not 4 times as much. My other move for cheap parts is going to the scrap yard. That sensor and wire is common on several honda and acura V6 engines so it doesnt have to be a Pilot. I'm not sure if they have places where you are where you can just go pull parts off broken or crashed cars.
@@234indicador_ I'm not sure I fully understand what you are asking, but if you are saying that you have a torque wrench that only has foot pounds, then the 9 bolts for the upper intake manifold should be 16 foot pounds, 12 bolts securing the manifold cover should be 8.7 foot pounds which would round up to 9 foot pounds. to convert from inch pounds to foot pounds you just need to divide inch pounds by 12. 104 / 12 = 8.667
Yeah...I had a few moments with my Honda Pilot like that. I kept a lot of penetrant spray on hand. I also take lots of coffee breaks to allow it to sink in.
@@DIYNorth I got down to it finally and yea I see why you said replace that flimsy harness so I'ma order one,may as well do it right never wanna do all this again
@@DIYNorth had to take off the steering pump there IS NO OTHER WAY to get to the passenger side bolt dude,not with that plastic harness thing under the steering pump,its 100% in the way,but in your vid it looks like you have room,not on an mdx
I was initially going to leave it actually, but I was under the impression that there are coolant lines going to it and decided that I'd rather just detach it rather than also mess with coolant. I could be wrong though. Either way you could leave it on.
I'm baffled that there were 15 thumbs down, as this is the clearest instructional video I have ever seen... all the steps are shown using great camera angles, good lighting and good sound. Well done, and thank you, as I have an '07 Ridgeline that needs the same thing.
Thanks for the positive feed back. I hope that you get your Ridgeline sorted out. As for the thumbs down, for whatever reason, they are unavoidable.
@@DIYNorth Probably subaru drivers.
Did it work for the 07 ridgeline? I'm about to try the same thing
Yes, Ethan, it did.
What an exceptionally clear and well-made video! I’ll be doing this job this weekend on an MDX. I’m so glad I watched this first. You are an excellent instructor.
Thanks for checking this out. I hope everything goes well for you.
Thank you sir for making this video. I watched your video multiple times and successfully changed my knock sensor. It's was difficult since my vehicle is really old. I ended up replacing the three fuel injectors too. The check engine and vtm4 lights disappeared. Thank you again.
Glad you achieved success. It is a bit of an intimidating job.
Thanks for the video. I just did this on my 2005 Pilot today. You are definitely more calm making this video than I was following it. For anyone who attempts this, the care to not drop the fuel rail bolts cannot be stressed enough - I dropped them multiple times but luckily was able to recover by using a grabber tool. In any event, I was successful with your help.
I've since got a magnet on an extendable pen thing....it really helps when you need to reach for something metal in a tight space.
@@DIYNorth Yes. I actually have a telescoping tool with a magnet on the end and a grabber tool and used both. Truth be told, I dropped more than just the fuel rail screws - I actually dropped my 12mm socket down in there as well. Also, I did end up taking the power steering pump off to remove that one bolt from the lower manifold. Again, thanks so much for the video. This was really my first venture into literally any car maintenance - I have never even changed my own oil. But your video was clear and detailed enough to give me the confidence to attempt this myself. Saved me a bunch of money - I came out ahead even with the tools (torque wrenches, etc.) I had to purchase.
@@justinhubbard6489 lol...that was a bold first thing to try. Everything else should be super easy now.
Awesome tutorial. I just finished replacing the knock sensor wire in my aunt’s 2010 Pilot and this was an invaluable resource. I actually managed to replace the wire without taking lower manifold off. I loosened the fuel rail and snaked the new wire under the lower manifold and used some needle nose pliers to push the connector on. Thank you for the video.
Glad it worked out for you. Thanks for the feedback on the video.
The lower intake manifold was near impossible to get loose. I ended up working a 24 mm socket back in there on top of the sensor and got it loose. I was then able to get it out and the new one started. I put the 24 mm socket back on and was able to tighten it up. Then I had to work the socket back out. What a pain. Other than that lower intake manifold, the rest of it was pretty easy. I never did get it out. Your video shows it in one scene and then out the next scene. Overall your video is what inspired me to replace my knock sensor. Thanks!
Sorry the intake was a pain. Everything in this video was smooth because I had the entire top of the engine apart a couple weeks prior due to damaged valves....so I already went through the struggle of really stuck parts.
just did this job on my mom's 05 pilot yesterday! your video by far gives the clearest instructions on how to do it.....I did have a little trouble removing the fuel rail cuz they were gunked up with dirt pretty bad and also the fuel rail bolts required intense focus not to drop them lol. Thanks for your help!
Glad you were able to find it useful. Thanks for the reply.
Just finished this job on our 2008 Pilot. You really do a good job showing the easy way to do this. FWIW, I did not initially buy the new wiring harness as recommended. The old one was actually the problem as it had disintegrated when I touched it. So I had a couple day delay waiting for one as none of the local suppliers had one. Should have listened!
Glad it all worked out for you in the end.
I was looking for valve cover gaskets replacement but this will do just fine,,,,,Such a great step by step instructions for DIY like myself......many thanks
in my PCV video I do the valve cover (i reuse the gasket though).
th-cam.com/video/4zQ3P8V69Gs/w-d-xo.html
Valve cover starts at 1:40 ish
Good very complete details and little extra talking. Thank you so much for no annoying music!
I don't know how to add music, nor have I made any money to pay for music.....but you're welcome.
Thank you for the fantastic video. I was able to fix my pilot and clear the error code. I probably would not have tried it without your video.
glad you found it useful.
Same thing here!!! You really helped us out!! Thanks
@@2005Pilot no problem
Thank you for posting this very informative video. It gave me the confidence to replace this on my wife’s 2005 Pilot today.
Glad you found it of assistance.
Road2cycle what’s up Road2Cycle? Thanks for sharing this video on our forum😀👍
Great video! I just did this on my 2005 Pilot after a rat ate the knock sensor harness. Here are some notes/observations for anyone else who may need to do this job:
- If you're only replacing the harness like I did, you can do it without removing the lower manifold, but you will need to completely remove the fuel rail so MAKE SURE YOU RELIEVE FUEL PRESSURE BEFORE STARTING (pull the fuel pump fuse while the car is running and let it stall, then maybe crank a few times for good measure). I did it by removing the car's end of the harness from its metal tab (for extra wiggle room), plugging the brown end of the new harness into the sensor using long pliers to hold the tab down and push it in, then snaking the black end to the other side of the air pipe that's in the way.
- My fuel injectors refused to come out with just a tug and a wiggle, so I used the trick from this video: th-cam.com/video/ijjDFRrghKo/w-d-xo.html (I was able to use a socket extension I had lying around instead of another pry bar).
- My throttle body refused to come off the upper manifold after 18 years of being stuck on, so I was able to take off the upper manifold with it still on. You just need to make sure ALL the hoses and wires are unplugged, including the 2 coolant hoses on the bottom (these are a pain to remove because they are mostly hidden, but doable - just be sure to put a shop towel or a rag below them while taking them off because coolant will likely spill out).
- When resetting the fault code after doing this, make sure the ignition is ON but the engine isn't running, or the code won't be reset. Imagine my disappointment when I initially cleared the code with the car running after spending hours on this job and it didn't clear.
great insights
Thank for the detailed video. Well done.
Thanks for checking out the video.
Great tutorial! I got a bid from the stealership of $721 for just the wire. I was able to replace the sensor (cause I was in there anyway), wire and serpentine belt for less than $100. Like you said about 3 hours of work, even with a busted bolt I had to drill out and extract. I wound up removing the power steering pump, gave me a little better access to the difficult intake bolt. Thanks for your work!
Whoa, $720 is a lot. It's a bit of an intimidating job, but really it's just a ton of bolts to remove then replace. It's not like you have to calibrate or fine tune anything.
Glad you found the video useful
This was beyond helpful, one of the best repair videos I’ve seen! I have to do this on my 2004 Honda Pilot, I haven’t done it yet but if I were to do it at a mechanic shop, it would have costed around 400 dollars! The hardest part is going to be the deep socket for me.
Glad it was useful
@@DIYNorth do you happen to know if the parts linked in the description can be used for a 2004 Honda Pilot as well?
@@BlasterTheMaster I'm not sure, but I would exercise caution on that. The 2004 has a lot of different parts compared to the 2005.
There are some parts that cross over, but definately not everything.
The 05,06,07 are more closely aligned as I understand things
@@DIYNorth alright awesome, thank you for the info, I’ll look more into it!
Thanks for this video now I have to change the knock sensor in my 2005 acura mdx
Thanks for watching and good luck on the sensor change.
Thank you for this detailed video, it was really helpful to replace the knock sensor on my 2007 Pilot !
Glad it provided some insights.
Yes took about that same amount of time for me and saved hundreds! Thank you!!
Thanks for watching, glad it worked out for you.
Thanks a bunch, the hidden 5th bolt was tricky but you pointed out👏🙏
Thanks for watching
thanks for the video. i was hoping this wasn't going to be an all afternoon type of job but looks like i' going to have to pay someone to replace this
Its definately a full afternoon adventure.
I appreciate the video. I am having no luck finding videos for my 2010 Honda Crosstour with the 3.5 I-Vtec VCM, or any good videos on other repairs for this car. The engines look the most similar, from any other video I have seen. I have a Haynes manual, so your video has given me the hope for success while also trying to follow this crummy book which starts you on one page, has you flip to another chapter to remove something, then flip to another chapter to remove something else. I already see the tightening pattern is different in my manual, but torque is the same but I am hoping the set up is similar. I had to look up the 104 in lbs you mentioned to get 8.6 ft lbs. Again, I appreciate your tips, including using bags, and other things.
I don't know much about the Crosstour, but some quick google searching indicates that I have a J35A6 Engine and you have a J35Z (some pilots also have J35Z variants). I am positive that there are more similarities than differences between the two engines, but would look at your manual for things like torque specs and tightening sequence. My thought on this is that you have some options on what you remove and the order that its done, but ultimately you need to end up in the same place. Best of luck with your repairs.
I feel your pain with the Haynes books - a wealth of information except for whatever it is you actually need! The bouncing-around from different sections would be fine with me if all the answers where all included. btw: how do you like the Crosstour (aside from this repair of course)? I have been interested in them and wish they still made them.
The knock sensor can easily be replaced without removing the lower intake. You need to be able to fit a thin wall 24mm or 15/16” socket between the intake runners and the knock sensor comes out.
I believe that could be possible. Allegedly you can also remove the power steering pump and do a side attack, but it looks pretty tight in that direction.
Thanks for the video
I replace the knock sensor for my 2005 acura mdx
In the state of minesota
Nice, I used to go to that state pretty frequently when I live in Thunder Bay. We went Snowboarding/Skiing in Lutsen once or twice a year and we would go to Duluth/Superior as well.
Great video but there is a way to take 2 ps bolts off the bracket then 2 12mm bolts on the bracket. You then can put your hand in the valley, un clip the sub harness took ten mins to disassemble. You can do this instead of the upper plenum and fuel rail. Once you pop a fuel rail out you should replace the o rings also. All ps bolts are 16ft lbs of torque per 06-08 pilot.
Thanks for the input. Did you just unclip the harness though or did you remove the sensor from the engine as well?
@@DIYNorth my bad it was the harness for me but you could with the rt tool set up, the torquing would be a problem. A small adjustable or ratcheting speed wrench would get it.
@@seanlancaster6911 I think it's possible. I dont have the honda pilot anymore to try though. One might need dainty hands though.
This video is awesome!! I need to replace the knock sensor on my 08 Odyssey tomorrow. I believe they have the same engine as the Pilot. Def going to use this video as a guide. Wish me luck!!
I'm not sure if its the exact same engine, as honda has different configurations of this V6, but I'm confident that it is extremely similar, particularly the major components. Best of luck in your endeavours.
Did you changed the knock sensor on your Odyssey? Was it the same as this video? I have a 08 Odysseys too and have to replace the sensor.
Great video. I have to do this on my 05 Odyssey. This video really helps. Just one question, what is the torque for the lower manifold?
My Haynes manual says 16 foot pounds for the lower intake manifold bolts. I couldn't get a torque wrench in there though, so I just guesstimated with a ratchet and a wrench. Turned out fine for me.
What a great video! Is 2014 pilot same process to change it? Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback. The 2014 might be similar, but I'm not sure. They did make changes.
Wonderful job, thank you so much.,,
U helped me
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video! Great explanation! I found a problem with the knock sensor while I'm repsring the water passage and the pipe. Do you think it is possible to replace the knock sensor having taken away the coolant passage and the pipe? Thanks again!
I'm really not sure. I would definitely try though.
I'd be interested to know if its possible. Some say you can just remove the power steering and get at it that way as well.
I haven't tested that theory though.
@@DIYNorth Thanks a lot for your answer. If I try, I'll tell You the results!
OUTSTANDING JOB ON THIS VIDEO!!! Best on the web!!! I found the knock sensor bracket easier to install with a 1/4” ratchet + 2&3” extensions. Also, Any reason you didn’t disconnect the wiring harness to the injectors? Made me a little nervous stretching it to slide the injector base underneath but managed as you said. All went well and codes cleared😀👍. Now to get rid of previous issue with Random misfires on all cylinders. Thank you again!!
I just didn't want to take the pressure out of the fuel system, and since everything fit without doing so that is the route that I took. Good luck with the random misfires.
Was your engine making a knocking sound due to a bad knock sensor? Or you decided to replace the knock sensor because it was reading the code?
Neither. Yes there was a code, but the top of the sensor broke off completely and the cable couldnt connect. There was no question about what the problem was in my situation.
It didnt make the engine knock though.
Amazing job and video, thanks a lot!👍
thanks for watching
Helpful video thank you!
Thanks for checking it out
Nice break down
Thanks for checking it out
You forgot to mention to take off the little bracket on the passenger side
I'm not sure which bracket you are referencing, but there is a good chance that I missed a few minor items in the process.
Muy vien explicado Viejo gracias portu video fue de Mucha ayuda para mi
No hay problema, gracias por mirar.
Great tutorial. Now to do this to my 07 🥴
I wish you the best of luck.
Very Good job and excellent video lots of Beneficiary on this awesome video keep up buddy 👍👍👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Does this sensor make the VTM light appear if it’s malfunctioned?
I think that it could, but I'm not sure.
I would suggest putting a obd 2 reader on the vehicle and pull the codes.
I found the vtm light could go off for many reasons, or seemingly no reason.
Nice video you the man!
Thanks for checking it out
the two nuts on that hold the fuel rail are stuck on. well one is rounded so now im stuck i was this close any tips on how to get it off?
Good question, but I'm not too sure. Lots of PB Blaster for sure (or other penetrant).
The good news is that once they are out you should have no problem getting some new bolts at a scrap yard. The dealership would also probably be cheap.
Is 2014 pilot the same process to do it? Thank you.
I'm not sure.
In general probably, but they made a lot of changes so it might not be accurate for torque spec and some other things.
You might want a repair manual before trying
The thumbs down for this video are from the Honda dealerships . I will never buy another Honda again. They are built to fail . Ask yourself why do they put all these unecessary sensors and useless components it's to rob us and waste our time. Looking forward to the deluge.
I might buy another honda, but I think that I'll probably get a toyota next
At about 11:07, there is a mention of coolant hoses. Is that correct? I do not see any coolant hoses, just vacuum.
I only removed vacuum hoses, but depending on how you remove the throttle body (or dont remove it) you may disconnect a coolant hose.
The ones at that point were all vacuum. I think there was a coolant hose that could come off the throttle body if I remember.
Your video is an awesome help and really good to understand, thank you.
I have two questions where your answer would be highly appreciated:
1.in the video it looks like there would be three layers of gasket underneath and above the spacer part. Is that supposed to be or did you just put more ?
2. I'm am currently traveling through Brasil with a 2006 Honda pilot that I brought in Chile.
Now my knock sensor cable has been chewed off by mice and it would take me ages to import spare parts because the car was never sold in brasil. Do you think it is possible to reuse the gaskets ? Maybe with some gasket sealant paste ? On your video they do look quite thick and strong.
Again thank you for your help 👏
1. They are single gaskets but they have 3 layers to them. They are commonly called Multi Layered Steel (MLS) gaskets. If you bought it, it will be a single item though. I bought that one as a kit, but if I recall the one that was in my Honda Pilot was the same MLS gasket in that location.
2. I'm sure that conventional wisdom would say don't re-use a gasket. That said I re-used every gasket in the video without sealant and I had no issues. I had already torqued everything down on the engine build and noticed the knock sensor had sheered off after the fact. So although the gaskets where only a few days old, they had been fully torqued down and then got reused.
If you just need to do the cable you might be able to just reach through and disconnect it. The power steering pump might need to be un bolted and pushed to the side but that would be an easier process.
What a true legend you are 👏thank you i didn't expect to get a response that fast. I was also thinking to try and replace it without taking apart the air intake but didn't manage just yet. Will probably have to wait for the new year to get a mechanic to lend me some tools. Don't really want to risk it driving all the way ( 3300 km ) back to Chile to get the spare parts. I will keep you updated.
Until then a happy new years celebration
I always respond fast, my phone flashes until I do.
@@DIYNorth i would have one more question for you 😬 do you remember if the sensor enters directly into the block ? Mine broke the same way as yours did and I am not sure if I can take it out and drive without the sensor for some days. Greetings from Brasil
@@vincentobarto sorry I'm not sure. It is threaded into the top of the block, but I dont know what is below it, if anything other than it's own threaded pocket. I dont know what would happen if it was removed and you tried to drive it without putting a new one back in.
Wow,, great job
Thanks for the positive feedback.
Really good video. Once of the few I can find. Did you replace both of the manifold gaskets? I only happen to buy one. Also is the sensor accessible without removing the lower manifold if you want to just replace the sensor? Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. When I did this video I didn't replace any of the gaskets, they were all reused. That said, all of the gaskets were new because I did a rebuild of my front cylinder head and did not notice that the knock sensor was damaged at the time. So I had put everything back together and then immediately had to take it apart again (thus I didn't want to go out and buy more gaskets for a second time). I have read that some metal gaskets can be reused, but I recommend you do your own research on that based on what you are pulling off your vehicle. As for reaching the sensor some other way, it might be possible to pull the power steering pump and come at it from the side, but I'm not sure. If you have a tool that can reach in and remove it like that, then that would be an easier way to do it. If you are taking the top down approach as I did I would say that you need to remove everything as was done in the video.
A guy in comments after this said he was able to do it without removing the lower manifold by using a pair of needle nose pliers
Knock sensor torque spec is 31N.m or 23lbs-ft
I fully agree with those numbers.
Dios te bendiga y a la familia feliz mil gracias me as ayudado gracias
No hay problema. Gracias por ver el video. Buena suerte con tu vehículo.
Excelent job , good explanation tks
Glad it was helpful!
I'm going to do this job on my 2005 accord v6 thanks
Good, luck. Its not that bad, just a lot of bolts to remove. Some say you can get access to it from the side as well. I'm not sure that is the case for all engines though
Update i finish the job today everything came out good no more check engine, disconnect your ground cable from battery hit your horn for 30 seconds and that will reset your OEM Computer .
Thank you brother I salute you from San Juan Puerto Rico 🇵🇷
Was there a trick to getting the lower manifold besides the four bolts? Got them all off and can't get it to budge.
Yes. There are 5 bolts. Refer to the 6:28 part of video. There is one that you must remove without being able to see it.
Very good video thanks have a nivel day greetings
Thanks for watching
Great job
Thanks for the feedback.
Great video!!...
thanks for checking it out
Thank you for the video. Would that knock sensor cause any crank no start issue to the car? Or slaw heavy crank?
I don't think so. At least in my case it certainly had no issues turning over. I'd say it sounds like a bad battery or starter.
Excellent video ...i being doung the same thing ...i got same codes and engine and vtm4 light on ...where did you buy your parts ...and i guess since i got all that manifolds off its a good time to do the plugs
I look around for deals on parts. I do bulk orders off RockAuto but for lower value items i might just go to local dealer. I try to balance shipping cost against how urgently I need the part as well. If the dealer/parts store is within $20-30 I'll go there, if I can save $40 + then I'll order the parts as long as I'm not desperate.
You kinda HAVE to use zip lock bags, especially if you take breaks on long jobs
I kind of talking myself up. I was actually using Great Value Zipper Seal sand which bags from walmart. TH-cam doesnt pay well enough to afford ziplock brand.
But yes....they help a lot.
Great video! Do you know why the vtm4 light comes on with the check engine light? What would the the 4wd have anything to do with the check engine light?
I found the VTM-4 light to be a bit of a mystery warning light at times. I would recommend getting the code checked and get that fixed. It will probably solve the VTM-4 light issues as well.
@@DIYNorth hello can you tell how much torke has to be ???
near the 6 min mark, he says "extra covering so an animal doesn't eat it" Guess what, I lost my wire to a mouse
Mice are the worst kind of people. If you look close at the wire it actually has pictures of little mice on the grey plastic covering. Apparently this is a problem that is more common than you'd think.
Me too!! 👎🤬 Freaking Varmits!!! Old style wiring. Hope newer stuff (non soy based eco friendly crap)
Sensor knock👈
Mouse eat👈
👅👅👅👅👅
Excellent video!
Thanks for the feedback.
I’d this similar to a 2008 Honda Pilot and how long did it typically take you lol I know the video makes it seem faster also do you recommend I get new gaskets?
It took me 3-4 hours, but I had just torn the engine down and put it back together so I had a pretty good idea of where everything was. I would recommend you have the whole day free. Also I would work on a day when Honda is open incase you break something unexpected and need to run out and grab a bolt or sensor wire. For gaskets I would recommend that they get replaced. Some gaskets are metal and some people say you can reuse them but you probably shouldn't. I didn't put new gaskets in for this video because I had just replaced all the gaskets a couple days before and figured I would roll the dice (it turned out fine for me). I just bought the entire engine gasket kit from Rock Auto. If you are doing a bunch of work the full kit will probably save you money. If you are only doing this job, then maybe just get what you need.
With the broken knock sensor, how did the engine run besides the codes? Very good video, ty.
To be totally honest if the check engine and VTM-4 lights were not on I wouldn't have noticed; seemed to be operating fine. Though I would be reluctant to say you should drive it like that. Thanks for the feedback on the video.
awesome video is that the same process for a 2006 honda ridgeline? i need to replace that part and the vtm4 sensor.
Thanks for the feedback. The engines will be very close. They are both J35 Engines, but I think the Pilot is a J35A4 and the Ridgeline is a J35A9. There is obviously something different, but they might be so close it could be hard to tell what the change is.
Gracias
thanks for the reply
Thanks for making and posting this video. Would a 2008 Honda Odyssey engine be the same? Or, had the engine model changed between 2005 and 2008? Thank you!
My understanding is that it depends on which odyssey you have. My 2005 Pilot has a J35A6 engine. The 2008 LX and EX version of the odyssey also should have a J35A6, but the EX-L odyssey from 2008 has a J35A7. (so say wikipedia) I'm not sure what the difference is or if it would impact where the knock sensor is.
Thank you for your clarity on this video. Did the VTM 4 light stay off after a road test?
Thanks for the feedback. No the VTM 4 light did not stay on.
What is the labor price in a shop for this? I just charged a lady to do this on a 2015 Kia Optima $200. Took 90 minutes. This looks to be about the same time.
shop hour rates can range from about 130 to 170 Canadian.
$200 might be a bit under what I would expect to pay for this. If you are talking $200 USD then that is probably about right.
@@DIYNorth, $200 US. Wish I could do these all day. Over $100hr in my pocket. I'm gonna get rich out here working on cars at people's homes.
Did you really need to remove the throttle body? Can't you just leave it attracted to the upper manifold and remove the whole assembly?
Could you? Yes you absolutely could. However then you will need to disconnect the coolant lines that go to the throttle body. So if you want to go that route fine, but I think the 4 bolts are less of a hassle than dumping coolant and potentially introducing air into the coolant system. But to each their own.
I am getting same codes and lights on my 08 RL. However when the lights are on the transmission does not shift right and vehicle struggles to pull over 40 mph. May be in a limp mode, I'm not sure. After changing the sensor did it fix your issues? Did the VTM-4 light go out? When I clear my lights the RL drives fine. I examined mine and it has the newer wire with rodent protector on it. I'm going to replace anyway. any other suggestions to check? Only other codes I have are O2 sensors. Thanks
Yes changing the sensor fixed the issue and caused the VTM-4 light to stop coming on. I don't think the 2005 has a limp mode, but maybe a 2008 has that feature. The O2 sensor could also cause drive issues.
Hello sir,great video like always,did you have to relearn the throttle body ??thanks
No it seemed to be fine without that. I think that if you adjust the plate by hand you'd need to do a throttle body relearn process, but in my instance everything fired up without any issue
Thanks for responding i was asking because when I started the car after a few minutes there was a nooking sound,something around the trhrottle body,i going to do relearn process to se what happens,thanks again for your great videos.
@@carlosvazques3276 One thing that helped me out when I had a noisy/rough idle was cleaning the EGR Valve. I did a video on that as well. Its a very easy job to do. (it might not help you though)
Thank you for your advice everything works well I really appreciate you 👍
That job can be done without removing the intake manifold. If you live in an area where you have mice/rats, they love to build nests under the intake and they will chew through the sensor wire because it is in the way leave the engine cover off. They live to chew through the wire that goes to the sensor.
I've heard people say that it can be done with the manifold on.
I'm curious how well the anti rodent coating on the wire works.
Maybe they treat the OEM wire with peanut oil.
Everything went really well until I got to the lower intake manifold. The bolts that it sits on won’t allow me to remove the lower manifold . Any tips?
Did you take all 5 bolts off, including the one I point out at the 6:30 point in the video? The first time I did this I didn't know about that sneaky 5th Bolt that you can't really see and I ended up yanking on it for quite a while before giving up and doing some research. There really shouldn't be much holding it down if all the bolt are out. I would just be careful not to scratch the surfaces that the gaskets contact. Some light taps with a rubber mallet is usually my go-to move to free up anything that is stuck.
U did menstion is 5 Bolt hold Tha lower intake manifol ,But in Tha vídeo You did show Tha location the Bolt is is Tha back on Tha direction of Tha driver side .i was strogoling trying to remove until i faund out Is one Bolt behing.
Sorry i SEE carefully one more time You Video u did menstion whene You was instaling Thanks.
@@234indicador_ No problem. This is the second time I did this job in the video, but the first time I did it I only took off the 4 bolts and had a crowbar and everything out trying to get that manifold to move. I got really mad, then I found that one sneaky nut.
@@DIYNorth yeah it happend to the same ,i remove 4 out i was trying whit Tha bar .i get fustrade and i Went to look more videos .thats whene o faund Tha Bolt hiring.i still in the prosses to put evething back.
That's so strange how my sensor was in half like this also...And I put the steering pump back on before taking off manifold,it's going back on with 4 bolts,it'll be fine I'm sure
I found that all the plastic parts on the 2005 had gone very brittle.
Good evening..
I have a problem that maybe you can help me with? I have a 2002 Acura MDX that I’ve replaced the knock sensor “4” times now.
I replaced the wire connector from the sensor to the harness. I even try a hole new wire outside the harness directly to the inside harness that connects to the computer, if that makes sense, to eliminate any problems that the harness may have. Nothing! The check engine and the vtm lights still come on no matter what I do...
any suggestions will help. Thanks
Sorry, I'm not sure. Obviously the knock sensor should not fail that many times without a problem somewhere else in the vehicle. Best of luck in tracking down the problem.
I have two questions... Will this be identical or very similar to the 07 Accord v6 engine.... & 2nd is it a must to replace the gaskets once you take it apart or can you gently reuse them?
It should be similar. they don't have the same engine. The Pilot has a J35 and the accord has a J30. The idea will be similar, but I couldn't speak to things like torque spec. It's not advised to reuse the gasket, even though in this video I did in fact reuse the gaskets. (but they were about a week old) If you are going to reuse a gasket the material is important. Plastic and rubber probably would fare worse and might even break apart when removing them. The ones that I removed are multi-layer metal gaskets and I feel much more confident reusing those. But condition is everything and must be considered. You can buy full gasket kits from Rock Auto with every gasket in your car for a pretty fair price.
Is all the same for J30 and J35
Is the wiring harness the same for 2006 honda pilot
I'm under the impression that it is.
But I'm not entirely sure.
Is this similar to a 2008 Honda Pilot
I took a look at my Haynes Pilot manual but it unfortunately is only for the 2003 to 2007 model years of the Pilot. It's probably similar, but I'm not sure if it is the same. If you're doing a bunch of work on the Pilot or plan to start doing a bunch of work, ordering a 1 Year subscription to the correct online Haynes manual (or similar company) might be a good idea. I find they are worth getting just for the torque specs alone.
Can replace it by removing power steering pump and bracket and can just get your fingers in there and a slim wrench.
I've heard this may be possible and believe that it could be done.
Any video links?
Wait,so it wasn't even plugged in?you flashed straight from removal of those plates straight to the sensor with no plug attached to it??
Yes....that's right.
The top had sheared off. That's why I didnt need to trouble shoot anything. It was obviously ruined
@@DIYNorth got ya nice work,I'm currently down in that area on my mdx and gonna do a valve adj,but I'm gonna leave it all open and get as many new replacement parts while it's open,fuel injectors n rails,knock sens,idk,what else is good to replace?
@@anglegrinder4630 there isn't too much else in that area really. I'd say what you mentioned is about it.
Is this tutorial works with a Honda pilot 2006?
yes i believe so.
@@DIYNorth thank you for your reply, nice video
No problem, thanks for watching.
Where did u get your plug in from can u tell us
I got the wiring harness from an acura dealer.
Dont have to take all that off , can get it out from under the manifold , its like a 1 hr job , take off power sterring pump , and reach in with open endcwrench ,
Impossible. Foghorn Leghorn has gigantic hands. There is no way you did that. Others may be able to pull it off though.
If you are doing this I recommend you grab some new plugs and intake manifold gaskets thank me later .
I ended up getting the full gasket kit for this vehicle. I used almost all of them.
@@DIYNorth did you go oem or Amazon on the kit?
@@mikejones1679 neither. I got it off rock auto with some cylinder head bolts. I actually didnt look at amazon
The price of the sensor please
Not that much. About $50 Canadian I think. Prices depend on where you get it
In my country 190 us dollar
Wow...does Rock Auto deliver to where you are? I'm in Canada but get a lot of stuff through the USA. I think that the car culture exists to a far greater extent in the US than anywhere else as a result of their cheap car part prices.
Amazon is usually good too, but get name brand parts from them. I bought a very cheap sensor from Amazon and it failed very fast.
I am in saudi araibia. Tha shipping will cost me too much. Any how still not sure the fail from the sensor or the connection
@@waleederbi8592 I would have thought prices in Saudi Arabia would be similar, not 4 times as much.
My other move for cheap parts is going to the scrap yard. That sensor and wire is common on several honda and acura V6 engines so it doesnt have to be a Pilot. I'm not sure if they have places where you are where you can just go pull parts off broken or crashed cars.
Why Tha lower ball is 16 foot paund,and why Tha Upper is 104 foot paund tork .wow that alot of tork for Tha Upper ?
no, it's foot pounds for the lower and INCH pounds for the upper. That's less than 10 foot-pounds on the cover. This is a very important distinction.
@@DIYNorth ok Thanks i was confuse .so if i ajust Tha tool how i need to ser up ,in foot paund or Inch?
@@DIYNorth if i do just one setting how mucho Will be for Tha lower and Upper on foot paund? Please.
@@234indicador_ I'm not sure I fully understand what you are asking, but if you are saying that you have a torque wrench that only has foot pounds, then the 9 bolts for the upper intake manifold should be 16 foot pounds, 12 bolts securing the manifold cover should be 8.7 foot pounds which would round up to 9 foot pounds. to convert from inch pounds to foot pounds you just need to divide inch pounds by 12. 104 / 12 = 8.667
@@DIYNorth thanks for Tha. Info
all that for a stupid sensor honda did it in purpose thanks honda🤬
Difficulties mastered are opportunities won - Winston Churchill.
Honda is just making sure you never stop winning.
EVERY SINGLE THING IS SEIZED UP DOWN HERE OMG WHAT A MESS I GOT GOING ON OMFG!!!!
Yeah...I had a few moments with my Honda Pilot like that. I kept a lot of penetrant spray on hand. I also take lots of coffee breaks to allow it to sink in.
@@DIYNorth I got down to it finally and yea I see why you said replace that flimsy harness so I'ma order one,may as well do it right never wanna do all this again
@@DIYNorth had to take off the steering pump there IS NO OTHER WAY to get to the passenger side bolt dude,not with that plastic harness thing under the steering pump,its 100% in the way,but in your vid it looks like you have room,not on an mdx
MAYBE with a very special offset wrench,Maybe
@@anglegrinder4630 Yeah, even for me that was the trickiest one to get out.
Is it ok to leave the throttle body on the intake is there a reason it must be removed ?
I was initially going to leave it actually, but I was under the impression that there are coolant lines going to it and decided that I'd rather just detach it rather than also mess with coolant.
I could be wrong though. Either way you could leave it on.
@@DIYNorth thanks