32.8 F, you're close to freezing your evaporator coils. It's possible in the condition it was in the customer lowered the thermostat. Could be a meat locker in there after recharging. And the leak stop didn't do that, it's the 3lbs you put in. You'll know (as a good tech) when you come back in 2 weeks to check the readings to see if it lost any refrigerant. I'm sure if the owner came home to a meat locker, he adjusted the stat. Could be poor air flow, but with a leak you probably just have a low charge situation. Leak stop is good on budget but as you said, a leak fix is better. I didn't see any caps on those Schrader valves so that might also be an issue. Core replacement is cheap and easy. Imagine putting leak stop in your compressor only to fix a leaky valve. lol
I had Nu-Calgon Ultimate Easy Seal 7.5 ton with UV installed in my RUUD R22 system and the charge has been holding for almost a year now and the house is a lot cooler. I also keep my coils clean and a Merv 1 filter but I did have a slow leak in the evap and Easy Seal 7.5ton UV worked. I did my homework first.
I would think the time the unit was running with a low charge while you were putting in the one and done, the evap coil frosted over, creating the issue of low evap pressure. When this happens, you only had to kill the condenser power for about 5 minutes, then you would have thawed the coil and pressure should come back up. That could have been verified by looking at the condensate drain and you would see that surge of condensate water coming out for a minute then stopping. If that didn't happen, then i would say cold room, dirty evap coil, fan speed or TXV issue. Just my thoughts here, from 41 years of experience.
My thought was that I’d rather have the head pressure a little higher on the cooler day that I did this repair. As opposed to cleaning it, having a sopping wet coil and have my head pressure even lower. As you can see from my readings, even with a full charge the dirty coil didn’t effect the head pressure.
No load and possibly air flow, good call. Suction pressure rule of thumb saturation 30 -35 degrees less than entering air temp, so 65 degree space is possible.
@arrealhandymanservice4459 suction saturation would be 33 degrees at 68 degree return air, so any temperature over the SST "33" would be superheat. 30-degree suction line would indicate flooding.
Love them. But the testo gauges, and testo smart probes are the only brand of electronic gauges I’ve used so I can’t compare them to others. I was on analog up until about 2 years ago.
Where did you buy that Leak Stop+? What store? I can't find it anywhere. And why did you choose that sealer instead of others (like Easy Seal)? This info would be very helpful to me. Thanks for the video!
United Refrigeration is where I got the leak soap and the One and Done. Really only used this brand because it was available. But I do use Easy Seal exclusively now.
How is it use with 410a? Psi on the vapor line is usually in the 100psi and u need them to be under 65 psi. Thanks for the input.@@JeffsHVACAdventures
What do you do if the low pressure switch is in lockout? Lennox system has a really slow leak. Plan to add sealant and then charge the system. However, can this be done when the compressor is off, due to the lockout?
@@JeffsHVACAdventures Thanks Jeff. Is it okay to charge the refrigerant when switch is in lockout? I assume that the 410 tank pressure will add enough to deactivate the lockout, but not sure.
You should always change the line set when replacing the equipment when possible. But if you keep the same line set It wouldn’t bother it at all as long as you flush it properly.
I paid someone to do the Max Seal Ultra and slso add 2lbs of R-22. He charged me $500 for the R-22 and $270 for the leak stopper. I was wondering if to high cost or this is average people are charging.
Letting refrigerant flow into your lines then cracking for a purge seems pointless to me the air that was in your hoses has already mixed with the refrigerant its not like the air is just compressed and separate from.the refrigerant the only thing that makes sense is if you had the line loose when you hook up the high side hose then maybe the refrigerant could push out the air but like that ita already mixed
Agreed. You need to open the high side and immediately purge. Otherwise, the air in your lines is leaking back into the system while you wait. The faster you purge after letting gas in the gauges the better. Ball valves are good for this, but you have to be quick while the pressure equalizes. Every second it is equalized allows air contamination to flow back into the high side connection. This is called diffusion. Higher concentrations move to areas of lower concentration by gas type. Hence, the air in the lines will bleed back into the system so long as the ball valve is open on the high side source. Minimizing the time the line is exposed to the high side source with air still in the lines is important. Bleed it quickly. Once you do that, you can take some time to push the stop leak in. A tiny bit is probably all that is required. You put a lot of liquid in the low side. I'd have turned it (the ball valve) each time very momentarily and do it half as many times as you did. Getting that last 3% of stop leak in there is less important than all that liquid on the suction side.
62F degree day. The subcooling shown would keep it fairly cool even with that level for that day. So the owner left it on. The subcooling was so low, it was just keeping up but running constantly. No match for a 90F degree day though.
Sticky sealants stick to your compressor too. So it will shorten its life. Like stop leak on oil leaks in your car. Cheap, but no really good in the long run. Last ditch effort for more time.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures I understand your pension for working with customers. But for better results, insist on leak fixes. I suspect the Schrader valves may have had a hand in this leak. Simple fix, but a leak check could result in a paying customer and do it right. Better in the long run for the customer.
@@anthonylosegoi do push for leak searches. Most of the time, customers cheap out and take the least expensive route. This particular customer actually just sold this house last week, so that's why he was so cheap on this repair last year.
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FINALLY someone purging the hoses correctly. Awesome video sir 😎
Nice information.
32.8 F, you're close to freezing your evaporator coils. It's possible in the condition it was in the customer lowered the thermostat. Could be a meat locker in there after recharging. And the leak stop didn't do that, it's the 3lbs you put in. You'll know (as a good tech) when you come back in 2 weeks to check the readings to see if it lost any refrigerant. I'm sure if the owner came home to a meat locker, he adjusted the stat. Could be poor air flow, but with a leak you probably just have a low charge situation. Leak stop is good on budget but as you said, a leak fix is better. I didn't see any caps on those Schrader valves so that might also be an issue. Core replacement is cheap and easy. Imagine putting leak stop in your compressor only to fix a leaky valve. lol
I think you will be going back to this house to take check blower motor wheel evaporator coil , TD and check static pressure . Nice video fully watch.
I had Nu-Calgon Ultimate Easy Seal 7.5 ton with UV installed in my RUUD R22 system and the charge has been holding for almost a year now and the house is a lot cooler. I also keep my coils clean and a Merv 1 filter but I did have a slow leak in the evap and Easy Seal 7.5ton UV worked. I did my homework first.
Good to hear!
I would think the time the unit was running with a low charge while you were putting in the one and done, the evap coil frosted over, creating the issue of low evap pressure. When this happens, you only had to kill the condenser power for about 5 minutes, then you would have thawed the coil and pressure should come back up. That could have been verified by looking at the condensate drain and you would see that surge of condensate water coming out for a minute then stopping. If that didn't happen, then i would say cold room, dirty evap coil, fan speed or TXV issue. Just my thoughts here, from 41 years of experience.
Added it to my old r-22 that had a very slow leak and haven’t had a problem since. Been a few years.
Good to hear
I don’t understand how you can add any refrigerant without cleaning that condenser coil first
My thought was that I’d rather have the head pressure a little higher on the cooler day that I did this repair. As opposed to cleaning it, having a sopping wet coil and have my head pressure even lower. As you can see from my readings, even with a full charge the dirty coil didn’t effect the head pressure.
good deal .Thanks .....not an true fan of one & done buy hey it does seem to work for some very small leaks with about an 65 - 75 % + - success rate
No load and possibly air flow, good call. Suction pressure rule of thumb saturation 30 -35 degrees less than entering air temp, so 65 degree space is possible.
Good Rule of Thumb!
That’s only for no load so if it’s 68 return air then the suction line temp should be arround 30
@arrealhandymanservice4459 suction saturation would be 33 degrees at 68 degree return air, so any temperature over the SST "33" would be superheat. 30-degree suction line would indicate flooding.
Awesome. The whole evap coil will be covered in dye.
Guess we’ll know where the leak is then.
I use them occasionally.
I want to see the results.
Hi, it's a very time consuming process to find a leak. Customers need to pay more for this process? Thanks
Great instruction and information as always, what are your thoughts on your testo gauges ??
Love them. But the testo gauges, and testo smart probes are the only brand of electronic gauges I’ve used so I can’t compare them to others. I was on analog up until about 2 years ago.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures thanks.👍👍
@@JeffsHVACAdventures Fieldpiece is rock solid. Never used Testo.
Dirty evaporator or dirty air filter 👍
Where did you buy that Leak Stop+? What store? I can't find it anywhere. And why did you choose that sealer instead of others (like Easy Seal)? This info would be very helpful to me. Thanks for the video!
United Refrigeration is where I got the leak soap and the One and Done. Really only used this brand because it was available. But I do use Easy Seal exclusively now.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures Thanks Jeff! Much appreciated sir!!!
How is it use with 410a? Psi on the vapor line is usually in the 100psi and u need them to be under 65 psi. Thanks for the input.@@JeffsHVACAdventures
What do you do if the low pressure switch is in lockout? Lennox system has a really slow leak. Plan to add sealant and then charge the system. However, can this be done when the compressor is off, due to the lockout?
Bring the system up to full charge first and then add the sealant.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures Thanks Jeff. Is it okay to charge the refrigerant when switch is in lockout? I assume that the 410 tank pressure will add enough to deactivate the lockout, but not sure.
@@H2ObarryField yea, it should take a good 3-4 lbs with the system not running. Should be enough to close the LPS.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures Thanks, Jeff. It worked!
how does this impact the lineset when it comes time to replace the entire system? gonna wreck the lineset?
You should always change the line set when replacing the equipment when possible. But if you keep the same line set It wouldn’t bother it at all as long as you flush it properly.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures Blow a cleaner peg through it.
Will these leak-stops mess with TXV valves?
I’ve never had a problem with them gumming up TXVs.
I paid someone to do the Max Seal Ultra and slso add 2lbs of R-22. He charged me $500 for the R-22 and $270 for the leak stopper. I was wondering if to high cost or this is average people are charging.
Seems in line.
What color was the bottle of refrigerant
Leak stopper is like $40 on amazon and can be done at the same time as adding r-22 so he worked you hard on that upgrade.
Probably spent $30 in r-22 and should have taken all of 20 minutes to do.
That coil really needed cleaning, even a complimentary water hose spray down
How can you possibly charge a system accurately with filthy coils like that?
It didn’t affect the head pressure as much as you would think.
Before to do something you must to clean this dirty condenser!!! :)))
Agreed.
Letting refrigerant flow into your lines then cracking for a purge seems pointless to me the air that was in your hoses has already mixed with the refrigerant its not like the air is just compressed and separate from.the refrigerant the only thing that makes sense is if you had the line loose when you hook up the high side hose then maybe the refrigerant could push out the air but like that ita already mixed
Agreed. You need to open the high side and immediately purge. Otherwise, the air in your lines is leaking back into the system while you wait. The faster you purge after letting gas in the gauges the better. Ball valves are good for this, but you have to be quick while the pressure equalizes. Every second it is equalized allows air contamination to flow back into the high side connection. This is called diffusion. Higher concentrations move to areas of lower concentration by gas type. Hence, the air in the lines will bleed back into the system so long as the ball valve is open on the high side source. Minimizing the time the line is exposed to the high side source with air still in the lines is important. Bleed it quickly. Once you do that, you can take some time to push the stop leak in. A tiny bit is probably all that is required. You put a lot of liquid in the low side. I'd have turned it (the ball valve) each time very momentarily and do it half as many times as you did. Getting that last 3% of stop leak in there is less important than all that liquid on the suction side.
how we can buy that too
United Refrigeration sells the One and Done brand
Amazon
Don't get it! If u can't go inside the house,how is the ac on. If Temp inside is cold. Why is the ac running.
62F degree day. The subcooling shown would keep it fairly cool even with that level for that day. So the owner left it on. The subcooling was so low, it was just keeping up but running constantly. No match for a 90F degree day though.
@@anthonylosego thanks for ur response.
Some tech say it bad, will interfere and damage unit. Why can't they be on the same level, so much wishy-washy
Sticky sealants stick to your compressor too. So it will shorten its life. Like stop leak on oil leaks in your car. Cheap, but no really good in the long run. Last ditch effort for more time.
Took that little stem off.Guess what?The problem was the little Leo valve was stuck.That's how I lost all my refrigerator save myself a ton of money
this isn't a serious video right?
Yes it’s a joke that only you understood.
@@JeffsHVACAdventures I understand your pension for working with customers. But for better results, insist on leak fixes. I suspect the Schrader valves may have had a hand in this leak. Simple fix, but a leak check could result in a paying customer and do it right. Better in the long run for the customer.
@@anthonylosegoi do push for leak searches. Most of the time, customers cheap out and take the least expensive route. This particular customer actually just sold this house last week, so that's why he was so cheap on this repair last year.