$450 Mige Direct Drive Force Feedback Wheel Build Tutorial - MMOS
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2020
- Direct Drive Wheel Build Thread/Tutorial : www.xsimulator.net/community/...
Hey peeps, so i finally pulled my finger out and edited up a build video of my AASD 130ST-M10015 Direct Drive Wheel. I hope it's somewhat helpful and didn't put you to sleep. Any questions don't hesitate to ask in the comments below. Alternatively, check out the Xsimulator page also.
Special Thanks to DIY Sim Racer for this beauty. You've done well, mate! Now lets see where this ends up :) Also special thanks to Thanos for the amazing job on the PCB. Can't wait to try it out :)
Stay tuned for the Thanos board with DAC installed comparison video, it should be a doozy. Also my Bluetooth GT wheel video shouldn't be far off as well.
Thanks for Watching.
DIY Sim Racer: / @simracingos
hackaday.io/project/168801-di...
My Build: www.xsimulator.net/community/...
Thanos Controller: www.tindie.com/products/troni...
FlyPT Mover: www.xsimulator.net/community/...
Simtools: www.xsimulator.net/simtools-m...
OBS Studio: obsproject.com/
Thanos Discord: / discord
Xsim Discord: / discord
Peacemakers Discord: / discord
Shoutout to Thanos, the whole Xsimulator community and everyone else sharing their knowledge for making this hobby as great as it is!
Thanos AMC-AASD15A controller
DIY Linear actuators - 80st-m02430 motors
12u Server rack
FlyPT Mover 2.9
Logitech g920 with sparco wheel
G25 clutch pedal analogue handbrake
Sparco fixed back seat
Oculus Rift CV1
Kogan 34" UWQHD 3440x1440 @144hz monitor
GTX1080
i7 8700k
32g ram
Camera: Sony A73 with Tamron 17-28 & 28-75 f2.8
![DIY Force Feedback Steering wheel | Circuit and Software Setup [in ENGLISH] , DIY Sim Racing Wheel](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/crdDhvhBG0M/mqdefault.jpg)
![🔴 [TRỰC TIẾP] Tứ Xuyên (Trung Quốc) VS BCTT Trường Tươi Bình Phước | Cúp VTV9-Bình Điền | JET STUDIO](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5nF-PCh_Ojw/mqdefault.jpg)
simucube and fanatec left the group, thx
Got all the stuff yesterday, starting this week, thanks for the tutorial
Mate what you have done is amazing
amazing tutorial, way easier to follow then the 3 minute clips from 2014. cant wait for info on the thanos board
I've been searching for this for years! Now I need to save some coin! Thanks!
best bloody tutorial ive seen for DD. thankyou!
Thank you for this tutorial, looks great. One day when I get bigger flat def building one.
Dude! New to your channel - loving it 👍
I think you have convinced me with a lockdown project :)
I wanted to thank you Peacemaker! Becouse of you I make it and it works (now only with MMOS becouse of time). I have no budget for DD wheel of the market and now i improve my DIY skills. I have satisfaction and new knowledge and of course a big fun! Thanks once again! Greetings from Poland!
You're welcome mate! I'm glad you got it to work. It's a good fun project with good rewards :) hope you're enjoying it
Loved the video...........Can't wait for the next one!!!!!!!!
Fantastic video, great job considering how many hours you have spent on the build and editing keep up the awesome work.
Cheers coops, it definitely takes 5x longer to do anything when you have to film, that's for sure lol. Makes you have a whole lot more respect for guys doing tutorial vids.
So I did exactly this but with a slightly different motor, and almost the same encoder, and driver. So the spec is: 110ST-M06030 (Pn001"motor model" is 15 for this one) - it is smaller, faster (3000RPM max), and has less torque (6Nm nominal, and 18Nm max). Encoder is 10000PPR, and the driver is basically exactly the same, except it doesn't have a CN1 on the front. It will be used mostly for AC drifting, so the spec is more suitable for my needs, I guess. At first I used the db25 wiring scheme from your vid, and it worked, except the motor haven't shown any signs of life lol. I've rewired it to the scheme from the original post on hackaday, and it works! I know a bit of the CAD stuff, so I have designed my own rig with clamps for the table for this motor (kind like an aftermarket ones, but with clamps basically) - will be cut and bent from 4mm steel. As for anything else - first time soldering, first time buying industrial stuff, first time dealing with electronics. God know how I did it, but it works. It was an amazing journey, a lot of experience, and a great result for the budget. Thank you sir 🙏 Thank you so much. Kind regards from Ukraine ❤️p.s. sorry for my english lol
Over 10,000 views!! holy crap! i see a heap of you are jumping on the bandwagon its good to see! :) I definitely do recommend the thanos TDD board if you can stretch the budget but if you can get a hold of a cheap stm32 board it will do more than well enough if you ask me. I used it for months without a DAC and enjoyed the hell out of it.
I wonder to this TDD, so if I use TDD it means i dont need the aasd servo driver anymore or something?
@@Arif_Peyex You still need the AASD driver just not the discovery board as the TDD come with its own stm32 board attached and also a DAC on board for clean signal conversion making for quieter operation.
@@peacemakermotion3949 thank you so much for replying me. My dream having a DD come brighter with this tutorial.
24:40 I found out you have to use both micro and mini USB because of "Low-power mode". It pops up in the STM Utility as "target might be in low power mode", so all you have to do is plug the mini USB in to a power adapter or to the computer, and the micro to the the computer.
E stops should always go on the normally closed circuit just a heads up
Just perfect! Thanks for the shoutout as always!! 👍
Hey mate are you on Facebook or any way of contacting you please?
@@seanmack9207 I don't have time for social media, however I keep a Discord active for motion control related topics. Join here: discord.gg/bx4PxYR
Fantastic intro 🤣
Good job 👍👌👏
Now you need an HS6-GT and DIY load cell pedals
Very perfect video tutorial👍👍
Thanks :)
nice video!
Great tutorial.
Did you parameterize the servo drive?
Que hermoso proyecto me gustaría uno igual se podrá hacer lo mismo pero con placa Arduino?
How well does DIY DD performs compared to branded DD like Fanatec csl DD for an example? I need answers.. thanks
THANK YOU. I'll try with one 80st servomotor
NP. Good luck with the build!
Hello, this build amazing. I Wondered What does it do PN53. Thank you so much for video.
Is this still actual with the new cheap DD CSL launch? How much does it cost to build it today?
Love it :)
Absoluteoy great tutorials I was a little confused when you were setting up the controller up, it seemed like at one point you referenced the rotation speed, but what where all the other things? Id love if you could explain it in some more detail? Thank you for doing these!
I copied the description of each from the manual and put it next to each line in the xsimulator page. it wont make much to most people even myself but you are basically putting the driver into torque control mode some values adjust multipliers and filtering and torque speed control limits. in torque mode for example the 120 limit overrides the 1500rpm motor limit when its in torque mode so that 1500rpm setting doesnt matter. another setting changes the wheel direction etc etc. This really isnt my field i just decoded another tutorial i found online. But if you read through the xsimulator page other more smarter cookies have chimed in with their knowledge about what certain things do and tweaked things here and there.
@@peacemakermotion3949 thank you mate I thought as much but I wanted to make sure... Great project though thanks for sharing!
Hey @Peacemaker Motion, i'm a mechanical engineer student and this project seems complete in all senses. I'm also DIYing A set of pedals and a steering wheel. I've considered also fabricating a DIY seq. shifter. All of this DIY will be added to my 2dof self made motion cockpit. The biggest knowledge lack i experience right now is the PCB configurations and connections, for example the shifter and pedals do not have the same amount of connecting pins as the logitech nor does the shifter. Also, is it possible to change the Motor encoder for a SinCos encoder? Appreciate this video so much, hella value. Keep it up mate!
I'm not Peacemaker but chiming in to say you might want to check out the "Open FFBoard" project that's had a lot of updates since the above video was published-- the guy who develops most of it has the TH-cam channel Gigawipf with really excellent videos about all aspects of these DIY builds. I think there are a lot of options for connecting different kinds of peripherals to the PCB there. Sounds like an awesome project though, I'm planning to get started on my own build soon and Open FFBoard seems really solid.
hello, for the development board could only use a STM32 F407 Discovery version or the other model will also do?
Awsome. From Russia with love.
ne za chto ;)
great film
Where do you connect the buttons and paddle shifters on your wheel, etc, up to?
Do you feel any rumble/small vibration when the wheel is at idle?
what do you think about creating a direct drive force feedback wheel using a closed loop nema23 stepper motor?
Plus one for having a cat!
Hey Bro@ pacemaker motion great video, I'm considering building 1 currently and I was wondering, there's another mige in this area the m10025, would this work for this project?
As long as its running off/bundled with an AASD servo driver. Yes it will.
Quick word of warning for anyone making this dont attach this to a regular desk and don't treat it like a regular racing wheel this thing will break your wrists if not used safely not sure if you guys have had much experience with a DD wheel but they are extremely powerful
It's all good if you don't use that much power.
anybody ever put some sort of slip clutch or coupling on the shaft that can break before your wrist does? 🤔
Wow.. hoping someone will build and sell an affordable DD soon.
So it’s been a couple years. How’s it held up? Do you still use?
Let's say I wanted to use a lower power motor like a 130st m10015 10 NM, would all the settings on the AASD be the same? Great tutorial btw!
yeah except pn001 will be different because that is what stipulates what motor you're using. worth checking your AASD is set to the right one just in case. the motor numbers are in the manual under pn001 :) Some people have bought a motor driver combo and had issues only to figure out it wasn't set right from factory. you can also play around with torque max speed to like 250 instead of 120. but maybe start with these base settings until you get it up and running.
i'll have a servo motor from a fanuc 520i robot . 9Nm stall torque and 1,8Kw continuous power . could you help me with wich parts i need to make it into a DD wheelbase?
Awesome tutorial, I just have one question. So you're connecting the pwm output (PE9) of stm32 board to the analog control input of the drive, am I correct? If so, is there any implication for doing that. Because as far as I understand, pwm can mimic but is not true analog signal, for true analog signal you need a DAC, so I was wondering if the fidelity of the force feedback was compromised.
Hey mate. Yes if you watch my test video you'll see the noise created by this. You can use pn188 filtering but too high can reduce fidelity. Early tests by thanos allow filtering to be set to '1' and zero noise! My DAC arrived yesterday so will be doing some testing with that very soon and report back :)
one question, i got all the stuff and got the wheelrunning! :) thanks for the tutorial but when im driving straights the steering wheel feels shaky, already put damper and friction off in mmos but still feels a bit weird, do you have an idea of how to fix it ?
Max sure your minimum force is 2 or 3 at least. What's your pn190 set to? Maybe try setting it to 0 and run fn007 to calibrate your torque voltage offset
hey mate, im really considering doing this as i have a spare set of Logitech shifter and pedals ive seen people asking about other similar servo motors but was wondering if ST130-M07725 would work fine as they seem fairly available in australia on ebay, it says rated torque is 7.7nm and max torque 22nm
Hey mate, yeah as long as its using the AASD servo driver no worries. Just check that pn001 is setup for the correct motor your using and you're good to go
Really want to make it one, but have no money. 😅
As a fellow aussie I need your masterful insight. Considering the servo and driver combo alone is now $736 delivered, do you think it would be a better idea to just get the MOZA R9 base when it comes to Pagnian in 3 months for $699?
It's a hard one.. depends if you want the extra torque or not. I tend to go no where near max torque of mine. Plus warranty and a pre built all in one wheelbase is also good. Just plug and play. Depends how handy you are with electronics as well for the DIY approach. Using a VNM ffb board currently and they'll run you about 100-150 on top as well if you want a smooth and quiet operator. $699 seems like a good deal really. Just hope it has enough torque for your needs it all.. I'm sire you wouldn't have much issue onselling it in this market if you didn't like it after a month though.
@@peacemakermotion3949 Cheers! Yeah from what I can see online it seems to be relatively good, and good point on the warranty. I did a full custom hotas +LH stick and was planning on doing the same for wheel but the prices are a bit more ouchy. I won't get their wheel tho and just get a quick release and build a box based off yours.
help me. i don't have g27 pedal, i have DIY pedal and DIY H-shifter . How to connect them with stm32????
Hello.
Has anyone tried to run it on the A1-SVD15 driver?
Hi, how the connection should be if I want to use pedal shifters instead of H shifter? Replacing the pins of the same port would be enough?
Thank you.
There should be a pinout drawing in the zip file for shifters. If you see what sequential shifter pinout is and then use those pins for your paddles it should work. Cant remember if it has sequential pins or not though, you'd have to check. Or just tap into some pins used for the H shifter and try that.
Finally looking at building one of these, but have a question before I decide on a listing to buy. Going with the 130st m10010, but I've noticed a number of listings have it paired with either the 15A, 20A, or 30A AASD. Does it need to be the 30A one or does it not really matter? Can't seem to find any info of that, the mixed info in some of the listings doesn't help either. lol
If you look on page 11 of the AASD manual it tells you what drivers are compatible with what motors. The m10010 is indeed compatible with all three. So then it comes down to price. If you can get the same motor with a higher rated driver for the same price or cheaper than I personally would go with the higher rated driver just for that extra headroom but yeah as the manual states, I don't think it matters too much because they'll all be sufficient enough.
@@peacemakermotion3949 Ahh good to know, thanks. Didn't even consider looking up the manual, assumed it'd all be in Chinese. Now to wait like a month for shipping. lol
@@Rustler_One haha, yeah. Ask the seller if they can supply shielded cables too. will help with EMI
@@peacemakermotion3949 Quite a late update but right after I bought it, went with taobao cause it was a bit cheaper than ali, the shipping option I was going to use was no longer available cause covid restrictions lol. Had to wait till like March and then finally had it shipped out, as expected took a month, also turns out it was the 30A AASD. Then kinda put it off for a bit while I got the last few things I needed, thought out the additions to my rig I'd have to make, and just some laziness really lol. Also my wheel button box and pedals are diy, and in the case of the pedals had to figure out the position I wanted them at. Pedals are actually a 3d printed design I made based on a number of different ones I've seen online. Got it all put together About a week ago now, had a few small issues like pn190 set wrong but that was easy enough to figure out. Interestingly with MMOS I'd get this weird resonance feeling, not sure how else to describe it, but guess that's part of the noise you get from not having a dac. Then decided to test out VNM, for whatever reason I couldn't get the version of the firmware in the v1_latest folder to work, would just spin continuously when calibrating. Using whatever the latest one was in the v0 folder works fine, of course with an earlier version of the software too. So with VNM that resonance feeling was quite a bit less, but weirdly there was something that felt like dampening even though I had it off, wasn't too noticeable when moving though and overall I'd say it generally feels better than MMOS. Just yesterday I swapped pin 25 to go to pa4 to use the internal dac of the stm32f4 discovery, and yeah that resonance feeling is almost entirely gone, so is a lot better. Also originally I had a load cell on my throttle cause I just had an extra one anyways, but didn't like how that felt and converted it to use a hall sensor. Now the only issue I have left is my button box doesn't like the emi from the motor, specifically the paddles are inconsistent. Bit long winded but that's my experience so far. lol
Good job Mate, I followed all your instruction and parts to build my first direct drive, except the servo motor I bought 130ST-M15015, I would like to take a video sharing about how to do in Cantonese, would you mind I put this video link for reference on my video description. I hope more people can join and start their sim racing with direct drive in low budges.
Finally I just have one issue on this project, when I power up my PC, some high frequency noise from the servo drive....... and I watched many video share with AASD, they all have this noise.... do you have this experience and how can I solve it please, thanks Mate!
Yeah man go for it! glad it helped you get up and running :)
yeah unfortunately its really unavoidable because thats the frequency it sends its commands. some people have sound proofed it in a box with cooling etc which gives a better result but because of the 10khz frequency its hard to mask. I have 6 more of them running my rig!! haha. some game volume or a headset sorts it out. Some people are more prone to that higher frequency than others too and some dont even hear it. bit of a gamble i guess as to how it will affect each person haha
@@peacemakermotion3949 Hey mate, finally I uploaded my first video about DIY cheap OSW today, thanks your hard work and sharing again!! :)
What's the code tha you used to make the motor work ?
Hello,
please, is it better to use 130ST - M10010 or 130ST - M10015 motor? + AASD - 30A AC servo driver.
Or does it not matter?
Thanks
Mirek
Did you find an anwser to this question?
Soo, quick question..For us here in USA with 110v power, what would be different in this setup? I assume the power cord section would be somewhat different. Also, these motors are sposed to be run on 220 yes? If so, would we need to get a transformer just to run the wheel to begin with?
well he answered mine, i gues he didnt see yours. on thanos' channel he has a video explaining how ot chnage voltage to 100 instead. same torque output. only difference is it will drive more current due to ohms law.
ive watched this about 20 times now and just ordered the motor and driver this morning, where did you get the box for the stm32 board to sit in? is it 3dprinted? if so do you have a link to the file?
do you have any issues? how the feeling of force feedback
@@itsmeoj no issues, FFB is nice and strong
@@IMattayy did you manage to get it to work smoothly?
@@ivanmijovilovich97 yes
Hey I wanted to just hijack the the g27 gear I have and just run the power wires that go to the 2xmotors and connect them to 1 servo motor... Thoughts?
i highly doubt that would work. you would need a dual motor setup similar to logitech. then there's the issue of enough power for the new motors..
He Peacemaker. Just about to get all the stuff (STM32 board is ordered already). Do you have the .stl for the STM32 box? (or can you add it to your xsimulator tread?) Thanks
Yeah no problem man. I'll try get to it later when I'm home, if not then tomorrow :)
@@peacemakermotion3949 Thanks man. I already found it on your discord channel. But maybe on Xsimulator it would be less searching for other people.
Hey man. Im absolutely new to the OSW scene and an absolute noob at electronics. Do you think this is worth the hassle for someone like me who would have no clue if troubleshooting is needed? Or should i go the Simucube+IONI route for the sake of convenience and ofcourse better fidelity in the FFB? How much of a difference is really there in the FFB feel of the Simucube and MMOS?
unfortunately i could not tell you the difference as i have never used one.. but if you got the Thanos TDD board its pretty much plug and play except for a few wires on the servo drive. arguably easier than a simucube 1 setup as far as wiring goes. Then you can also jump onto VNM firmware and really liven it up. In the future VNM will also support Biss-C etc with their own controller but yeah basically comes down to your budget i guess.. and if you want a real turn key solution then it may not be the one for you but yeah.. im all about fiddling with shit and saving coin for other parts haha
So the thanos tdd just allows to skip the wirering part it doesn’t improve anything in terms of performance for the wheel (am also new to this world and i realy want to build this DD set up but i want to be sure to know everything i need before buying anything )
@@RAYQUAZA_X Listen to my DAC test. The TDD has a built in Digital to analogue converter which makes the wheel operate smoother and more silently. It also has a benefit of plug and play and avoiding wiring :)
hey so i live in the US and was wondering if the motor can run on 2 phases of 120v for 240v or if i have to find a solution to that problem. otherwise, if there is a way to step it down to 120 but im not confident on drawbacks being minor
Yes you can do that no worries. Many guys running sfx simulators in the US do this with the AASD driver. If you search thanos's channel he has a video showing it :)
@@peacemakermotion3949 thanks a lot. this tutorial has helped me a lot to answer most of my questions since in all honesty im too lazy to read documentation with no prior knowledge and stuff and your direct links to thanos' stuff helped. ill start sourcing pieces and try and build one of these. i hope to see your channel grow soon.
I want to build one so but but I’m not too familiar with electronics and just need more knowledge is this something I should still look into? If not where can I learn more so I don’t mess this up because 450$ for a diy direct drive wheel is nuts
Well it might be about 100 dollars more now for the motors since this video, still doable.. but there are a lot of other options around now too.. the TDD board can't get any chips due to shortage for like another year or 2 so that's out.. there is now the VNM board bit will require a bit of soldering still to get the right pinout. It's a great option as it also has spots for a button box to be wired up and also pedals.. so like an all in one controller kind of thing. But now you can also pick up a VRS box by itself for fairly cheap and buy a Mige 130st 10010 and have a biss-c encoder for not much more.. depends how strict your budget is really.. 200 more probably for that set-up.. thats not bad either..
is it working with Forza Horizon 4?
Hey, m8! Did you solve the humming sound problem? Also I had a look at Aliexpress but it seems that kind of motor is 10Nm only. Are you sure your's 25?
hey mate, check my DAC comparison. Thanos has made a nice all in one plug and play DAC board that eliminates the servo noise! My motor is actuallt a m10015 and has 10nm minimum with a 25nm peak. for instance the Simagic is 10nm max! so more like 4nm min..
Is this better then the fanatec dd2?
depends on what you mean by "better"
I encountered EMI problem when I connect my ground wire from power sources(220V or 230V depend on country) to ground point of servo, also connect my motor sources to the ground, which interfere a lot on my diy wheel buttons. Should I connect my ground wire from power source to L3 to eliminate that problem?
earth one of your ground pins on the arduino and see if that helps
did you solve it?
@@krystofvydra yes, connect a wire from you wheel to you arduino ground pin. It will work.
I am considering building this kind of setup for a few months already. Do you think the 130st m10010 (10Nm, 20Nm peak) is powerful enough? I was considering the 130st m15015 (15Nm, 30Nm peak) which is just a little more expensive. Also, did you buy the original Mige motor directly from Mige or did you went with the same motor from other seller (I heard that there could be some issues if you buy the motor from other seller since it may not be original, and the not original motors aren't that well built). Also, how are you overall happy with this kind of sim setup? especially the FF wheel :)
The 10010 is more than powerful enough
10 nm rated is more than you need, at least it is more me, strong enough to replicate an indycar ffb but a little overkill
It's powerful enough for sure.
For context:
Fanatec CSW v2: 7.1 Nm
Logitech G27: 2.3 Nm
Thrustmaster T500: 4.4 Nm
Very cool! Just one question: why build one yourself instead of buying a high quality wheel from fanatec or thrustmaster?
EDIT: Just looked one up. Wow. I didn't know they were so expensive
yeah cost! this way i could afford new pedals as well hehe :) bloody expensive hobby! wouldn't change it for the world though!
i have a stupid question so pardon me @28:26 where are the connectors that was on the top??of the motor when it on the desktop is this the same motor?
They are on the left hand side of the motor. If they were on top they wouldn't fit under the monitor. Plus this way they are out of view and look neater. Plus all my wiring runs down the left hand side of the rig to its also the shortest path the get off the rig :) but to answer your question, yes it's the same motor as the one on the bench.
@@peacemakermotion3949 thanks for the quick reply, you difenitly deserve more Sub's, i am not familiar with what you guys are doin you are amazing creative people & i am willing to risk this time & try to do the setup my self & order all the pieces online but i have one problem which is where to buy the 3D printed hub adapter or how to make it in order to mount the wheel on the shaft??i asked the same question on your post on xsimulator.net but i am a noob when it comes to this stuff i dont get what all different terms means like "PLA" "PETG" "ABS"
Hi, may I ask how's the fan noise level coming off the AASD drive?
It turns on by default if the driver temperature exceeds 50°C. The fan noise is really low, but tbh it doesn't cool much.
Is the steering wheel input synchronized with the game? I've seen a lot and felt a little delay
I think it depends on the game and the screen latency
But you can use a view without wheel some you don’t have this delay
Hi brò, I have a lot of EMI problems with this controller ... do you know if there are any solutions?
Hey Mate, ensure your rig and everything is properly grounded (earthed). If its an arduino button box then this also need2 to be grounded. Try using a phone charger to power one side of the stm32. try some of that. Also if possible run the motor cables away from your usb cables. and try some ferrite cores over your usb cables etc as well.
Can you feel much road detail, bumps, that kind of thing?
Yeah for sure!! Only coming from a g920/29/25.. it feels so much more! The real benefit is feeling the tyre slip and oversteer etc. That's the real magic. My rig shows me more of the bumps and stuff so I don't focus on them too much with the wheel but you still notice the grab of the curb and stuff as you're expecting it etc.
This was valid a yr ago, but should i buy a Fanatec csl dd just cuz its 450 anyway??? How many nm of torque out if this??
Well, being you I´d go for the Fanatec CSL DD, because de the motor of the wheel on the tutorial only produces 2.5Nm, although, every review I've seen from that wheel recommended the Boost Kit
Well this wheel in my tutorial is 25NM peak with 10NM constant. CSL is like 5NM peak or something like that and you'll need an extra power supply for that. VNM is about to Release a Direct Drive board which would suit this project perfectly. For 100usd. Just comes down to what's easier and more suitable for you. Csl will just plug and go.. different leagues of motors though Power wise.. and that's reflected in size too. Haha. 450 is also not the price anymore as the us dollar tanked these got dearer so there's that to consider.
Hi mate, could you provide me the STL of the casing for the discovery board?
Hey mate, so sorry but I actually lost the files a while ago when I did a reformat of the computer :(
I'm completely newbie and have recently joinded Xsimulator forum, I want to ask," Whats the difference between this DD setup and OSW setup with simucube and ionipro?".
well this is currently using 6 year old software that hasn't been updated in 6 years.. but still fully compatible will the latest games. Doesn't support absolute encoders (yet?) only incremental. simucube has kind of been designed and moulded around this purpose and has continued support. Also more than double the price.. But now there is a new software thats being developed for open source wheels using other drivers than simucube that will have simucube like options and adjustability!! so the whole scene will be about to change soon and open up the market to more and more inexpensive DIY wheel builds. stay tuned. i'll be doing a video on it soon :)
I'm at a dead end here, I want to order the thanos controller but it doesn't ship to South Africa, does that mean i must just give up on the project?
Join thanos discord there's a couple selling a spare board, one guy is actually in south Africa too. For some reason he doesn't ship to certain countries maybe due to past experiences or something or maybe its a site specific thing that doesn't calculate shipping properly. Perhaps contact him directly about it..
australia where mate ????
is that mini screwdriver? i know mini makes a killer ts100 soldering iron, i have one myself and i see you do too :D
Its a xiaomi wow stick. Not bad and very handy.
Hi, I have wired it all up and set up the STM32 to run the MMOS firmware. I ran some tests and found that the encoder was being picked up, but there was no force feedback. I am not sure whether it is because I was using incorrect settings or because I had pin 6 of the DB25 connector open (not connected to GND). Any help/guidance would be more than greatly appreciated!
Hey mate did you get it sorted? Maybe your estop is not the correct way. Swap normally open and closed around and see if that works.
@@peacemakermotion3949 hey yeah got it sorted... For some reason it works when the pins are shorter but not when they are open? Not quite sure if it is meant to do this but here we are. Thanks!
@@lou2737 oh nice work. Yeah I think I said normally open and its meant to be normally closed. Glad you got it sorted man
@@peacemakermotion3949 ahh okay sorry xD. Ty for the help tho! The wheel is working really well now
I'm really tempted to sell my t300 and buy the parts to make this
Just bought a t300 and now thinking about this, haha.
do it!! :)
Does anyone know if the MMos Firmware supports F1 23? I can't find this information anywhere.
Haven't use mmos in a while but I don't think there'll be any issues with it. But don't quote me on that. Haha.
@@peacemakermotion3949 hahaha understood. Thank you so much.
You know when playng forza motorsport, someone will make that monitor fall off 0:30 haha!
Can I use any wheel because I plan to play f1 so will need to buy an f1 wheel
Hey mate you can but a button box or make a bluehid or arduino button box and it will all work with f1 for sure. Just need to make or buy an adapter to suit the shaft of the motore you choose
17:15 why 1500rpm ? The web site say 1000 rpm. Is the motor able to do it without failing or something ?
my motor is rated for 1500. the motor he used is rated for 1000.. this setting doesnt matter though because Torque mode will override this and only do the torque rpm (120rpm in this guide). just leave that Setting as it comes from factory basically.. but its good to double check some of these settings anyway just in case it wasnt set up correctly from factory.
Круто
Can I do this with a 12V dc motor with encoder, right?
You could yes. But you'll have to figure out all your own pinouts and MMOS connection settings etc
@@peacemakermotion3949 Thank you!
are you able to use it with the PLAYSTATION i wonder
i don't think that consoles will allow any dodgy wheel/gamepad to be connected. You would probably need a bypass for it like in fps games for consoles.
With the release of CSL DD this is no longer worth it for 10 Nm.
But that's cool, never knew these things were actually servo motors intended for sewing machines lol.
25NM you mean.. vs 8NM.. bit different. But yeah the csl is good if that's all you need :)
yeah for 450 its not 25Nm, definitely 8-12 maybe on par with the Accuforce v2, but accu is way more reliable and trustworthy and you pay for what you get, they counteract themselves by saying "up to 25nm" , like nah, thats false advertising, using a simcube ULT compared to this is insane torque difference.
Yeah it has the same torque and peak torque has DD2 but for the price of the csl DD
@@peacemakermotion3949 the motor is rated for max torque 10 Nm that's why I said that. If it's actually able to reach 25 Nm that's a whole another story of course.
@@fns58 ohh.. i thought you were saying this build i did was only 10NM haha. its 10NM minimum!! but now the new sim magic mini is very interesting!! intro price is 600 bucks and 10nm with 20nm max i think.. now thats a good deal!! who knows what final price it will be.. the simagic is actually like 50% more than RRP inAustralia so once again on paper.. good deal but in reality.. not so much lol. a shame. but maybe people in the USA or so can get closer to these RRP's
does it work for xbox serie x?
no
🤣
What game is the racing car tested in the video
Assetto Corsa
@@peacemakermotion3949 I don’t seem to have your track
@@simracingos its Fujimi Kaido. Its a custom track. :)
@@peacemakermotion3949 Is there a download file?
Can you make a PCB box designed by Thanos
Just like the 3D printing box in your video
Thank you!
I certainly will! Only thing is mine will be for the prototype board and not the final version. But i'll post it up in the xsimulator page when i get it done :)
I also want to ask the same question as you😀😄😂😂
@@peacemakermotion3949 Can you make the PCB base plate designed by Thanos into the STM32F4DISCOVERY we are using now?
Is the price Australian Dollars?
Negative. USD. but exchange rate is a lot better now than when I bought this stuff haha
Does an external braking resistor need to be used with the driver?
No it doesn't
Awesome! Thank you so much! And thank you for putting all of this together. This has been extremely helpful!
Can ı make a with nema34 stepper motor
This is for the AASD driver.. for a Nema34 try this project hackaday.io/project/44385-smoothstep-force-feedback-steering-wheel But to be honest by the time you buy all the extra bits and pieces its probably easier to just buy a 90st combo package with driver.. Unless you already have a nema34 and LaunchXL and PSU etc..
Peacemaker Motion Sim it is very complex project am ı make nema 34 And its driver card tb6600 and stm32 supply etc
@@simkopat61 ahh ok, nah sorry.. there has been a few projects in the past, that's probably one of the easier projects ive seen with a Nema, hence why this AASD solution is so attractive i guess.
0:33 - pls. whats is the game?
Wreckfest on steam
İf we dont want to use g25 pedals we need to büyük only Servo?
You will still need the stm32 board. You just won't need the two db9 connectors. Only the db25 plug wired up
How to prevent interference?
You can use a DAC to clean signal up.
@@peacemakermotion3949 Dac module? It's that kind. Can you tell me.
@@peacemakermotion3949 Can firmware be shared?
@@jackrzhai5516 if you click on the xsimulator link in description it is all described in there with links to firmware etc.
My servo motor has a brake, can I still be able to build this? Thanks.
If you apply 24vdc to release it when its turned on. Is it CNC motor?
@@AleksandarStojiljkovic I don’t know, I just bought this motor for a nice price, It’s a kollmorgen akm53K motor.
@@lezhou3588 yes the break can be released by applying voltage
I did everything as in tutorial, it does not work for me, MMos devise not connectet, whith 130ST-M10015, Flashing its good
You have both usb cables plugged in? Both need to be short cables and quality cables.
Yes, now I put the second cable in plus, and now the motor came to life, but I have another problem when i motor start, it spins in one direction constantly without stopping
@@DMYTROCBRrrSP what is your pn191 set at? Try 0 first if it spins then try 1. Just try the opposite to what you have.
@@peacemakermotion3949 i must disconect all cable?
@@DMYTROCBRrrSP no just hit the Estop. When the wheels stops spinning. Change the pn191 and then release estop