been looking out for this project for 4 months just waiting for odrive and THANK YOU so much to propeler (creater of code ) for not making it paid BTW u dont need the other board u can just use odrive although it does look more neat
been wanting to do this for years mate! thanks for the inspo! i have soo many hub motors laying around being a scooter tech. i need to use them for other things!
Nice project, but I’d highly recommend adding an inline kill switch to anything delivering this level of torque, just to keep your hands safe from the wheel spinning when you crash or get shunted of track
Did you prefer the FFBeast Software, or the Arduino EMC software more? I'm thinking of using the same assembly and parts from FFBeast, but using an Arduino to communicate, if thats even possible.
I made it too, disasembled my old 10inch wheelboard and woaliaa, agree its cool! I use another encoder, wheel qr from ali and 56v board. And i use 24v battery for power, because my power suplay is burn. Today this wheel sleep in carton box and not used...
how do you wire your steering wheel buttons? Do you use a separate board only for them and plug it separately into your pc, or can you also use the odrive for buttons and pedals?
the mks xdrive s has 4 gpio pins and spi so you should be able to utilize the 4 pins for whatever inputs and/or use an spi extension if theres more than 4 buttons. id get the 56v version.
Hi. Nice project. But what the power of the motor can I use? There are motors for 200w, 250w, 300w and up to the 450w that i can buy. This ODrive plate can it run with any power? I seen a lot of 10inch motors, also they should be stronger. Can i use them? Im not good at electronics but want to try it. Thanks
Awesome! keep up with the contents! The quality is amazing! I'll try a similar project this summer, starting to look for cheap/thrifted hoverboards. :)
@HodonickiHenry yes, you can purchase them from pcbway, you can download the Gerber files from the FF east website and order the PCBs from pcbway at the link below this video
Si te referís a que si podés usar un motor de taladro, no podés, porque los motores de taladro son con escobillas/carbones, el motor de un hoverboard es sin escobillas y controlable Básicamente, los motores de taladro no son controlables, lo que hacen los taladros para cambiar el sentido es que cambian de lado los polos (positivo y negativo). Para hacer esto, se necesita poder controlarlo precisamente y de una forma que no se puede con un motor de taladro
I guess you would need some tube for passing the encoder shaft through it, preventing any wear to the phase wires due to its rotation inside motors main shaft
From looking at the step file the bearing is a 19mm OD, 10mm ID. So it should be a 6800 variant. For the magnet it should be around 6x2,5mm but if I'm not wrong it should be included with the encoder.
hi guys! i´ve finished the project and it works just fine, but i´ve got a trouble, wich is the motor, after 5 to 10 minuts of use it gets so hot. Do u guys know why could it be? Great video and amazing content you do. Keep it up!
@@julianzelaya7262 also my motor got hot, I solved this by drilling a bunch of big holes on his back side and adding two blower fans that blow directly on the stator. This solved that issue
Hardest part of this right now seems to be getting the motor, and then waiting for shipment of things from China. I am excited to try this out though when I can
@DAZprojects could i also use the same parts from your last ffb steering wheel to create this one as the only difference would be the brushless motor and the controller or could i somehow edit the hex file to turn down the rpm to use the raw output from the shaft of the motor as it alos has a pretty good 11nm output?
24V is the limit of the MSK Odrive so you can't take more with that one, but yes my friend has a 12V, and it works also even thougth the acceleration is better on mine to be honest but the difference is minimal but I would recommend sticking with 20A minimum, I took 30A to be sure.
how do you drill the 3mm through the motor shaft ?, my drill is making progress but not really fast it took me 45 minutes just to drill a little bit through it. Do you use any lubricant? and which drill bit do you use?
Hmm, I was wondering if you can take a beginner sim wheel and upgrade the motor like the logitech G29/923 and use the logitech housing for a sleeper look
@@DAZprojects In the US, there was a culture of drag racing building sleeper cars. Sleeper cars were normal looking cars but built up to go fast. I've seen it in gaming computer builds with cases from the 90's to 2000's but haven't seen it in sim racing and thought wow, that can actually happen now after seeing your video. Of course, whoever does it will have to showcase it on Twitch and TH-cam or otherwise noone will know.
is there other cheaper way to control it. i dont have accest to mks xdrive or other similar boards. i wonder if i can use aduino or stm32 with separated bldc motor controller board , its it possible ?
The whole point is in the motor driver, Odrive is good enough for nice FFB,once everyrhing is well optimized, like changing the current shunt resistors to suit the required range for your motor. By default it has 150A range and if you use only like 10th of it, so will the FFB resolution be only a 10th, at low forces it will be very jerky. People usualy put 5-10 mili ohms.
please please please DAZ, i have 3 question, answer me these 1, can you make the flashing process and uploading the firmware process video, I keep reading in the guide "disconnect and connect external power to the board, what does that mean, what type of external power is it talking about? 2, is the firmware or the ffbeast software paid 3, how do you incorporate the pedals in to the board using mks drive mini
1. external power is the + and - connecting from the psu to the mks board (not the usb c port).2 there are two versions free and paid. the paid version has the ability to use custom buttons but otherwise it is the same. 3. with free version you can't connect pedals but u can use some arduino nano for that and simhub software or else, there are a lot of tutorials and projects online
How many degrees can the wheel do with that magnetic encoder? I saw the specs but it says 360 degrees..... I'm confused if it can do 900 degrees or not
@@DAZprojects Seems like a risky operation. If it fails for me I think I will just bolt down an m3 threaded rod and tape it near the wires so it does not erode them.
can you help me choose a power supply? is using 24volt 10amp 500watt enough? or do i need a higher wattage? and isn't the hoverboard motor 36 volts? i also found a 36volts 28amp 1000watt power supply. i hope you can help me on choosing the right power supply. thank you in advance
@@armandoaceves3268You need about 30A peak in order to get close to 10-15Nm, but it will run fine even with lower currents, but the question is then how optimized is the current sensing ADC range, this is essential for the quality of FFB.
there is no delay in firmware, could be that he uses v-sinc in the game and at 60Hz monitor this gives 16ms of input lag for any game controler (mouse, keyboard or joystick, wheel)
Hi! Excellent work. Congratulations. I need help. I've constructed one but when I'm calibrating the wheel and I go over 450 grades the wheel becomes crazy. Why? And, the motor gets very very hot. Some idea why that's happen?
Hi i have not made this yet but i assume that the overheating problem is expected i read somewhere but you can make a cooling system unless if the temperature is super high then please let me know and make sure to check over your soldering as tat is a core reason for many overheating issues.
Also my motor gets hot, I've now drilled a bunch of big holes in the spindle side, and I've added two blower fans that blow directly on the stator, it is pretty loud, but gets read of all the heat allowing me to use it for hours at 100% power
probably issue with the firmware, once you get passed the electronical end stop angles, encoder count goes crazy and therefore also the ffb, check out OpenFFBoard firmware, it doesn't have such issues.
motor stator has to be cooled by airflow, remember that howerboards are designed to spin fast, in a wheel it's barely moving under high curents (stall mode) so it's logical that it will dissipate power and heatup if that heat is not removed in some way.
they are not needed, just makes things easier/more visually pleasing. id recommend utilizing the original cast aluminum base to keep it simple and cheap.
anyone have any idea where that white adapter thing with a magnet inside and a screw came from? for the encoder i assume but not sure. Is it 3d printed?
It's to dump the back current of the motor to heat so that it doesn't go back in the PSU and trigger the over current/ over voltage protection. This happens when you turn the motor and it resists your movement
@@DAZprojectsCan/should I upgrade my brake resistor? I hear they get very hot and I worry that maybe it'll die someday and boom there goes my power supply and house lol
Why do you use the spoke to feed into the angular encoder if you could use 3 hall sensors already installed on this motor? Updated: Please see a comment below why the external encoder is necessary!
@@algodude8713Hall sensors give the motor controller quite precise position of the rotor. A typical hoverboard motor has 15 pairs of magnets, and with proper processing it is 5400 position per rotation, if I am not mistaken. It is far better than this sensor, which has a resolution around 1 degree (and it has 4 hall sensors inside anyway, but "senses" only 1 magnet at the shaft). I guess, the main reason is that this sensor reads the absolute angular position by itself. This drastically simplifies the code, of course.
@@AlexYeryominYou are wrong, the external optical encoder is an absolute must. The 3 hall sensors on the motor are only for commutation of motor coils. this is used in speed control mode in howerboard where you have high rpm's and don't care about precise motor angle. In torque control mode for FFB wheel where it's barely moving, you need very precise shaft angle readout which those simple 3 on/off halls can't provide, they have like 8PPR. For good FFB one needs 2.5k PPR at least, 10k is already much better.
@@rankovicmilos86 I read again your comment, and while I agree that the good encoder for feedback wheel is necessary, look what was used for DIY wheel - a cheap magnetic (hall)encoder. This brings my question back: why not using hall sensors already available with this motor? I have reused the motor and the motherboard from the old hoverboards. It works no problem in the torque mode. I can't tell if precision is enough for good feedback for gaming, but it shouldn't be much worse than that single encoder.
Hello friend, how are you?, I had a problem a while ago with my computer and I ended up being banned on discord! Would it be possible to remove it so I can return to discord please?
Ordered all the parts now waiting and then finally will build this project😁
been looking out for this project for 4 months just waiting for odrive and THANK YOU so much to propeler (creater of code ) for not making it paid
BTW u dont need the other board u can just use odrive although it does look more neat
It's one of the best open source project I've ever seen, also the community is small but very active
@@DAZprojects Hi i have two questions, is the custom pcb necessary for the build? If yes where can i buy it?
@@The_Vanillax you don't need the custom PCB, it's just makes things neater, you can get one from PCBway
@@DAZprojects oh ok thanks
@emiljanduka51 is it free thogh, i tought the firmware is paid, I saw something about paid licence for DIY FFB in the website
been wanting to do this for years mate! thanks for the inspo! i have soo many hub motors laying around being a scooter tech. i need to use them for other things!
This is awesome, FFBeast only for the steering right? And your pedals and shifters are they running separately through EMC?
That's correct
@@DAZprojectsWhat EMC means? How exactly does it work.
Nice project, but I’d highly recommend adding an inline kill switch to anything delivering this level of torque, just to keep your hands safe from the wheel spinning when you crash or get shunted of track
It's open source, just make one. Or put a big red button to kill power to it.
its connected to a psu, could you just turn off the psu
@@abatall of course you can turn off the psu while your arms are broke
These wheel hub motors are usually rated 15nm when running at 48V. At 24V, they will only deliver 7nm peak and 5nm stall, which is relatively safe.
I wish you’d put a bit more detail into this. How do I route the cables out of the shaft? I can’t get them to budge at all
L
For anyone who sees this I just cut the wires and desoldered them from the windings, and resolderded after prepping the shaft.
gj
@@fudruckers3916 W
How much volt input for power supply ?
110 or 220 v ?
Thanks
Did you prefer the FFBeast Software, or the Arduino EMC software more? I'm thinking of using the same assembly and parts from FFBeast, but using an Arduino to communicate, if thats even possible.
I preferred the FFBeast, not even comparable
You should check out OpenFFBoard firmware, it's the best one out there, also there is a custom motor driver developed by the same guy, Yannic.
dude, If you did please share
question do you need that encoder or can i use a Rotary encoder?
Did you compare it to other direct drive wheels? Is it better than a low end DD wheel, like a Moza R3 or Fanatec CSL?
gran proyecto, sabes si existe una forma de usar un Arduino y un driver genérico del motor?
I made it too, disasembled my old 10inch wheelboard and woaliaa, agree its cool! I use another encoder, wheel qr from ali and 56v board. And i use 24v battery for power, because my power suplay is burn. Today this wheel sleep in carton box and not used...
Good job 👍🏼💪🏼
how do you wire your steering wheel buttons? Do you use a separate board only for them and plug it separately into your pc, or can you also use the odrive for buttons and pedals?
the mks xdrive s has 4 gpio pins and spi so you should be able to utilize the 4 pins for whatever inputs and/or use an spi extension if theres more than 4 buttons. id get the 56v version.
Great work, very clean! The driver has intergrated encoder, did you try it without the need of external encoder?
is there any alternate motor driver we could use as the neither the MKS xdrive mini nor the MKS xdrive-s are available in India
There's a list of compatible controllers on the FFBeast website
@@DAZprojects thanks
Nice proyect
Hi. Nice project. But what the power of the motor can I use? There are motors for 200w, 250w, 300w and up to the 450w that i can buy. This ODrive plate can it run with any power? I seen a lot of 10inch motors, also they should be stronger. Can i use them? Im not good at electronics but want to try it. Thanks
Actually insane
How did you run the wires from the wheel buttons and shifters? Is there a slip ring or something in the middle?
Awesome! keep up with the contents! The quality is amazing! I'll try a similar project this summer, starting to look for cheap/thrifted hoverboards. :)
Nice build i have a question ? Whats your pedals setup for this ffbeast wheels
Is it possible to decrease the force feedback if I turn it down in assetto Corsa?
@@HodonickiHenry yes, you can also set power settings in the configurator
@@DAZprojects Also is it possible to get the exact same custom PCB?
@HodonickiHenry yes, you can purchase them from pcbway, you can download the Gerber files from the FF east website and order the PCBs from pcbway at the link below this video
Esta expectacular , los taladros antiguos con direccion en amvos sentidos , funcionan ?
Si te referís a que si podés usar un motor de taladro, no podés, porque los motores de taladro son con escobillas/carbones, el motor de un hoverboard es sin escobillas y controlable
Básicamente, los motores de taladro no son controlables, lo que hacen los taladros para cambiar el sentido es que cambian de lado los polos (positivo y negativo). Para hacer esto, se necesita poder controlarlo precisamente y de una forma que no se puede con un motor de taladro
@@panintegral4571 gracias por la tespuesta, una lastima ya que son baratos y tienen mucha fuerza
I guess you would need some tube for passing the encoder shaft through it, preventing any wear to the phase wires due to its rotation inside motors main shaft
Its pretty smooth as it is, but you could just use some soft shrink on it if you wanted. You could put it around the wires, around the spoke, or both.
awesome video. do you by any chance have specs on the magnet and the bearing
From looking at the step file the bearing is a 19mm OD, 10mm ID. So it should be a 6800 variant.
For the magnet it should be around 6x2,5mm but if I'm not wrong it should be included with the encoder.
@@vbence12 Awesome thank you very much!
hi guys! i´ve finished the project and it works just fine, but i´ve got a trouble, wich is the motor, after 5 to 10 minuts of use it gets so hot. Do u guys know why could it be? Great video and amazing content you do. Keep it up!
@@julianzelaya7262 also my motor got hot, I solved this by drilling a bunch of big holes on his back side and adding two blower fans that blow directly on the stator. This solved that issue
Hardest part of this right now seems to be getting the motor, and then waiting for shipment of things from China. I am excited to try this out though when I can
Getting a motor and power supply is the easiest part. A lot of ewaste stuff, but perfect condition.
Hardest thing to get is the controller.
Just buy the real damn thing
@@ilcarlino752 Why? I made mine and it's working wonderfully. And was way cheaper
@@smothdude the real thing is only 500 euros and this doesn't compare to it
@@smothdude too much work and also not comparable to products that had years of research behind them
@DAZprojects could i also use the same parts from your last ffb steering wheel to create this one as the only difference would be the brushless motor and the controller or could i somehow edit the hex file to turn down the rpm to use the raw output from the shaft of the motor as it alos has a pretty good 11nm output?
Just make this one in the first place
@@DAZprojects i already have the parts for the old one
How do you fit pedals set up with the base?
Is there a reason for the bike spoke? Is it just to keep it in place?
It's used to hold the encoder magnet.
Why should we not use the e6b2 cwz6c in this project?
So many thanks for the video ! Is the power supply (24v) sufficient for good (high) tork ?
24V is the limit of the MSK Odrive so you can't take more with that one, but yes my friend has a 12V, and it works also even thougth the acceleration is better on mine to be honest but the difference is minimal but I would recommend sticking with 20A minimum, I took 30A to be sure.
Can you use the on board AS5407P encoder on the Maker XDrive Mini. Very nice video and assembly.
I think so but I'm not sure
how do you drill the 3mm through the motor shaft ?, my drill is making progress but not really fast it took me 45 minutes just to drill a little bit through it. Do you use any lubricant? and which drill bit do you use?
use a carbide bit and oil...your bit has probably dulled itself and I am assuming you probably arent familiar with resharpening a bit.
Is it possible to use the hall sensors as the encoder
Did you find this motor better than the old project you did? BTW keep it up with your projects, i really like your videos
Way way better
@@DAZprojects Amazing, i think i'm gonna do it with the same hoverboard that i found nearby!! Thanks for the ispiration
Are the 10 amps of the PSU enough to get the 15nm or 12-15 amps would be better ?
same question here..
In Discord of FFbeast, they recommend 20Amps PSU because of 15Amps recommended current
@@smpltv6481 Thanks ! I got answers to many of my questions on this server.
You need about 30A peak capeable PSU to get 10-15Nm
running a 36v psu would be more efficient and require less amps. its also these motors nominal voltage and would make the wheel spin faster.
Hmm, I was wondering if you can take a beginner sim wheel and upgrade the motor like the logitech G29/923 and use the logitech housing for a sleeper look
Why?????
@@DAZprojects In the US, there was a culture of drag racing building sleeper cars. Sleeper cars were normal looking cars but built up to go fast. I've seen it in gaming computer builds with cases from the 90's to 2000's but haven't seen it in sim racing and thought wow, that can actually happen now after seeing your video. Of course, whoever does it will have to showcase it on Twitch and TH-cam or otherwise noone will know.
with some 3d printing, yeah!
Hi i have a question what is the bike spoke used for and the magent at the end of it? does it tell the encoder what position the wheel is at?
Right! It's for the magnetic encoder. Showed at 4:56
is there other cheaper way to control it. i dont have accest to mks xdrive or other similar boards. i wonder if i can use aduino or stm32 with separated bldc motor controller board , its it possible ?
The whole point is in the motor driver, Odrive is good enough for nice FFB,once everyrhing is well optimized, like changing the current shunt resistors to suit the required range for your motor. By default it has 150A range and if you use only like 10th of it, so will the FFB resolution be only a 10th, at low forces it will be very jerky. People usualy put 5-10 mili ohms.
Do you maybe have the board design? I don't see it on the guide site. Thanks so much for the video btw, this is what makes the community amazing
Did you find it? Im searching for it
@@bossoy0769 No, ended up buying a Simagic Alpha U lmao
Hello, great job, in the country where I live I can't get that driver (x drive). Would it work with an Arduino Leonardo and a BT_2 board?
same question here, do you have any answer yet ?
Wouldn't work, this is a brushless motor
so is this ffb good or the arduino one which you previously build with a 24v motor
This is on a whole other level
please please please DAZ, i have 3 question, answer me these
1, can you make the flashing process and uploading the firmware process video, I keep reading in the guide "disconnect and connect external power to the board, what does that mean, what type of external power is it talking about?
2, is the firmware or the ffbeast software paid
3, how do you incorporate the pedals in to the board using mks drive mini
1. external power is the + and - connecting from the psu to the mks board (not the usb c port).2 there are two versions free and paid. the paid version has the ability to use custom buttons but otherwise it is the same. 3. with free version you can't connect pedals but u can use some arduino nano for that and simhub software or else, there are a lot of tutorials and projects online
How many degrees can the wheel do with that magnetic encoder? I saw the specs but it says 360 degrees..... I'm confused if it can do 900 degrees or not
The wrapping of the value is done in software, the mt6701CT only reads absolute angle.
How does the spoke stay in place, the nipple only prevents it from going one way.
@@Zeusbeer the hole in the motor chasing is small enough to thread the spoke into and acts as a nut
@@DAZprojects Woah thanks for the quick reply. So you essentially tapped the wheel using the spoke?
@@Zeusbeer yes
@@DAZprojects Seems like a risky operation. If it fails for me I think I will just bolt down an m3 threaded rod and tape it near the wires so it does not erode them.
pcb board you mounted everything to available for sale?
Hi, does it works with ac servo motor too?
It works, but I don't know how
Can i do drift with this?
hello how to order pcb board, I don't know what to include in the specification
is there any controller board thats cheaper than the xdrive mini ? any clones? i dont know how to search it up
That's already a clone of an odrive model
oh i see, thank you so much
I'm interested in FFBeasts' flight sim stick and pedals!
I can use the encoder that is soldered on the driver board?
I'm not sure but I think so, you will need to modify the mount to house the entire board
What screw size did you use to mount the SK16s?
what is the size of the allen key to remove the wheel from the base?
i can tell you its metric lol
if you are struggling to figure this out, the project will be very difficult for you.
Could you tell me where to get the custom pcb cause this project is cool af and want to try to build it for myself
Pcbway
@@DAZprojects also does this wheel work with the DIY pedals you made?
hey man just wondering can i use the hub motor off my e scooter instead of the hoverboard just let me know thanks
I would assume you can use any DC motor, so long as you can properly mount it and connect it to an encoder.
@@TheGamersRace thanks
can you help me choose a power supply? is using 24volt 10amp 500watt enough? or do i need a higher wattage? and isn't the hoverboard motor 36 volts? i also found a 36volts 28amp 1000watt power supply. i hope you can help me on choosing the right power supply. thank you in advance
you need 24 volts and 10-15a
And what about the pic current, is the 24V 10-15amps enough for the hub motor?
@@armandoaceves3268You need about 30A peak in order to get close to 10-15Nm, but it will run fine even with lower currents, but the question is then how optimized is the current sensing ADC range, this is essential for the quality of FFB.
why does the input seem so delayed compared to whats going on in the game at 10:32? also the turning radius seems less than optimal.
there is no delay in firmware, could be that he uses v-sinc in the game and at 60Hz monitor this gives 16ms of input lag for any game controler (mouse, keyboard or joystick, wheel)
Don't throw away the hoverboard base, could be used as sim wheel base as well.
Hi! Excellent work. Congratulations.
I need help. I've constructed one but when I'm calibrating the wheel and I go over 450 grades the wheel becomes crazy. Why?
And, the motor gets very very hot. Some idea why that's happen?
Hi i have not made this yet but i assume that the overheating problem is expected i read somewhere but you can make a cooling system unless if the temperature is super high then please let me know and make sure to check over your soldering as tat is a core reason for many overheating issues.
If I remember correctly that also happened to me, but I don't remember how I fixed it, if I remember that I'll let you know
Also my motor gets hot, I've now drilled a bunch of big holes in the spindle side, and I've added two blower fans that blow directly on the stator, it is pretty loud, but gets read of all the heat allowing me to use it for hours at 100% power
probably issue with the firmware, once you get passed the electronical end stop angles, encoder count goes crazy and therefore also the ffb, check out OpenFFBoard firmware, it doesn't have such issues.
motor stator has to be cooled by airflow, remember that howerboards are designed to spin fast, in a wheel it's barely moving under high curents (stall mode) so it's logical that it will dissipate power and heatup if that heat is not removed in some way.
Can I use hoverboard motor with BTS7960, arduino and EMC software just like a direct drive version of your previous wheel?
Nope
Hello, having trouble drilling through the axle. I’ve gone through 3 metal type bits. Any advice from your experience? Thanks!
I used a standard metal bit and the axle steel seemed very very soft, drilling through it with no problem
@@DAZprojects Thanks! I ended up needing to use some oil and apply more pressure to the drill, while going at a slower speed.
Hi did you end up making the project? Howd it go?
I was searching for the pcb and 3d parts to send to PCBway, but I couldn't find then, can you share please?
they are not needed, just makes things easier/more visually pleasing. id recommend utilizing the original cast aluminum base to keep it simple and cheap.
Does this wheel work in carx or froza
I think so, but I used it only in AC
How does the encoder
where can i found the 3D parts projects??
anyone have any idea where that white adapter thing with a magnet inside and a screw came from? for the encoder i assume but not sure. Is it 3d printed?
It's 3d printed
please give me the files for 3D printing of the case
hi is there any way i could contact you personally i need some help with the steering wheel plans if you could please
ig not
Awesome video! I newer have time to finish my video but now I know good one to recommend!
Can I use this on ps5?
me fala como liga esses botoes extras
Were are the SLT Files for 3D printing ??
İts on the ffbeast website there should be a link in the asaemblY GUİDE
bro, what magnets in your motor wheel?
I don't know, standard form hoverboard
@@DAZprojects bad(
impressive!
Is the motor is 24V our 36V?
these motors are 36vdc. im not sure why people arentr running a 36v power supply to get more speed and efficiency.
Do you have the parts file printed on the 3D printer?
They're printed from PCBway
I didn't find them, can you send me the link please?@@DAZprojects
Where do I find the layout of the PCB board?
On the FFbeast website
Please explain connections because all the other videos about this wheels are not in english
ffbeast and makerbase has extensive diagrams on each model.
how did you put the steering wheel into the base tho
with his 3D-printed mount
Which games are compatible with this? Is it EA WRC2 one of them?
All of them probably
Ok just tell me what that brake resistors for
It's to dump the back current of the motor to heat so that it doesn't go back in the PSU and trigger the over current/ over voltage protection. This happens when you turn the motor and it resists your movement
Thank you ❤
@@DAZprojectsCan/should I upgrade my brake resistor? I hear they get very hot and I worry that maybe it'll die someday and boom there goes my power supply and house lol
Are you able to share your FFBeast UI Settings?
Have you created a LUT file?
No
How are your pedals connected?
he made a video bout it
Why do you use the spoke to feed into the angular encoder if you could use 3 hall sensors already installed on this motor?
Updated: Please see a comment below why the external encoder is necessary!
I believe the hall sensors in the motor do not have sufficient precision to make a good-performing wheel
@@algodude8713Hall sensors give the motor controller quite precise position of the rotor. A typical hoverboard motor has 15 pairs of magnets, and with proper processing it is 5400 position per rotation, if I am not mistaken. It is far better than this sensor, which has a resolution around 1 degree (and it has 4 hall sensors inside anyway, but "senses" only 1 magnet at the shaft).
I guess, the main reason is that this sensor reads the absolute angular position by itself. This drastically simplifies the code, of course.
@@AlexYeryominYou are wrong, the external optical encoder is an absolute must. The 3 hall sensors on the motor are only for commutation of motor coils. this is used in speed control mode in howerboard where you have high rpm's and don't care about precise motor angle. In torque control mode for FFB wheel where it's barely moving, you need very precise shaft angle readout which those simple 3 on/off halls can't provide, they have like 8PPR. For good FFB one needs 2.5k PPR at least, 10k is already much better.
@@rankovicmilos86Thank you for the detailed explanation! This makes sense.
(I updated my comment above asking to see your comment here.)
@@rankovicmilos86 I read again your comment, and while I agree that the good encoder for feedback wheel is necessary, look what was used for DIY wheel - a cheap magnetic (hall)encoder. This brings my question back: why not using hall sensors already available with this motor?
I have reused the motor and the motherboard from the old hoverboards. It works no problem in the torque mode. I can't tell if precision is enough for good feedback for gaming, but it shouldn't be much worse than that single encoder.
Is there a tutorial for the pedals? And any other additional components like a shifter or e-brake
@@unboxstation854 there is one on my channel, check it out
@@DAZprojectsStill don't see how to connect them so that they work
@@unboxstation854 watch my configuration video
Рома! Это твой ведь проект? Поздравляю! Ещё раз спасибо! Пользуюсь 💥
having cable coming out of wheel is big nono
I know, I will probably make a wireless wheel in the future, maybe with a screen
Hello friend, how are you?, I had a problem a while ago with my computer and I ended up being banned on discord! Would it be possible to remove it so I can return to discord please?
How many nn?
Probably around 15
is this compatible with PS5
Don't think so
What pcb is that?
A custom one made with PCBway
@@DAZprojects how much did it cost?
Cause I need a pcb and I don't know which one to buy for the project
@@crykiddalt you mean the motor controller?
@@DAZprojects no you said which controller you need but what pcb do I get?
what is the steering angle? Only 180?
You can set it to whatever you want
Big brain
Can you give me the link to the parts?
Hello, could you give me the link of each thing you use please? If not, leave me an email and you can send it to me there.
doable with no electrical knowledge?
Yes