The ONE GAME-CHANGING Slicer SETTING... (Huge 3D Print Quality BOOST)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
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👉🏻 In this video I am revealing one Orca Slicer setting that will completely change how much better your 3D prints will look. I tested with PLA and ABS filaments and this one setting is the thing you 100% should give a try on your 3D printer. Make sure you don't skip the part where I talk about other factors that can affect the layer consistency of your prints. If your extruder produces inconsistent extrusion it is a mechanical issue that can't be solved in the slicer.
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📋 RELATED ITEMS TO THE VIDEO (Affiliate):
3D printers:
- Bambu Lab X1C shrsl.com/480se
- Bambu Lab P1S shrsl.com/480sa
- Bambu Lab A1 shrsl.com/4dob8
- QIDI Q1 Pro shrsl.com/4h3av
- Flashforge A5M Pro shrsl.com/4h4xw
Testing equipment:
- Digital Calipers s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dlt...
- Digital Dial indicator s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkw...
- Digital Micrometer s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Deb...
📢 OTHER MENTIONED THINGS:
- Cooling Test Print www.printables.com/model/5805...
- Used thumbnail Voron test print github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-...
- Snaplock boxes www.printables.com/model/805599
- Skyhook www.printables.com/model/1631...
- USB cable holders www.printables.com/model/6952...
🕗 TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Results preview
00:38 - Two very important factors
02:28 - The GAME CHANGING Slicer Setting
03:16 - Dual-drive gear extruder RESULTS
03:55 - Single-drive gear extruder RESULTS
04:37 - PLA overhang performance
05:36 - ABS/ASA results
06:20 - 75% of people are missing out on this
06:44 - Easily make quick comparison prints and share them
07:04 - Have more incredible settings?
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*TO CLARIFY:*
What makes this huge boost to the print quality is printing the OUTER WALL before the adjacent INNER WALL is printed.
That is why I called the Inner/Outer/Inner wall ordering option "printing outer wall first" as it does exactly that. Hopefully, that clarifies things. I know it can be quite confusing.
*So TLDR:*
Inner/Outer = IW first
Outer/Inner = OW first
Inner/Outer/Inner = OW first
Why does the Ankermake Studio slicer (based on PrusaSlicer) not have this setting? I can't find it anywhere.
Is there a cura setting for that?
I discovered this a few years ago. I realized that the quality is massively improved and there is pretty much no downside. I am really surprised this isn't standard.
Nice, I wonder that myself too because so far I don't see any real downsides. There can be some caveats with it, maybe that is why is not a default, so that beginners would less often run into problems.
lolu still didnt reveal what it is in this comment hah. im waiting to be sold an ebook
Cura made it default for a while but then reverted it, because they have lots of bad defaults that cause missing extrusion after unretract, especially on bowden printers, and they want to hide that on inner perimeter rather than showing it on outer. Despite it harming part integrity either way. 🤦
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE downside is the seam is on the outside right after a long retraction for a layer change, so the nozzle pressure sometimes might be too low and the seam may look worse
@@donguyengiac5046 Maybe this can be avoided by printing infill first?
This is the first video whose title contains the tired, old "GAME-CHANGER" claim that actually turned out to be a game-changer for me. Printing the outside walls first made a MASSIVE difference in the quality of my prints. I've been living with semi-OK prints for literally 3 years...can't believe I've gone this long without knowing about this setting. Why isn't it on by default in all slicers?
Edit to add, after another print: I seriously can't believe the difference this made. My print looks almost injection-molded, for cryin' out loud! And I'm running it on my trusty old Ender-3 V2. Unbelievable!! Thanks for this tip!
Finally, I've been printing OW first for 5 years now, saves a lot of time on postprocessing too
It is crazy for me that such an amazing setting is so little known, hopefully, more people will be aware of it now. :)
I started using IW/OW/IW because of the scarf joint feature and it was surprising to me how much better everything became, but I couldn't put two and two together on how that could be so until your video, thanks!
One likely reason is that curling and warping are caused by outer layers not having sufficient time to cool combined with the contraction of inner layers as they cool pull in on the outer filament. So by printing an outer wall first, you’re giving the outer layer the most time to cool so that it can be already solidified by the time the printer gets around to it. I legitimately never thought of it like that.
I've been trying to tell folks outer perimeters first is better for years but everybody looks at me like I'm crazy...
Haha! When you said it I wrote down the idea to test as it sounded interesting, but I was skeptical about it. Unfortunately it took 1 year till I got to test it and it completely changed my mind. I guess later than never is better, thanks for the great suggestion. :) Hopefully now way more people will be aware of it!
We've been taught for years that outer first makes 💩 overhangs 🙂
Maybe slowing down on overhangs cures that 🤔
@@kimmotoivanen Not having 2015-era weakass cooling fixes that. 😁
@@daliasprints9798 maybe that too, though 2024 also has not so cool part coolings ;)
I had great results with these settings as well, though admittedly with limited testing. Most of the improvements make sense. I realized one reason the overhangs being as good or even improving may make sense while watching for video. First of all, the filament has more room to expand and sit on top of the previous layer, since it won't hit the inner wall and then have to squish outward over the side, which could cause a drooping overhang. Sure, you may think because clinging to the inner wall would keep the filament from falling outward that it would help, but the volume of filament extruded all has to go somewhere, so outward is the remaining direction if the inner wall is present. The other reason I think it may help is that not having an inner wall means the outer wall extrusion can be cooled from both sides, it even has a little channel of air flowing past it, and it isn't being kept warm by the previously printed inner wall. I would suspect the added cooling is a much larger factor than residual heat from an inner wall, but the amount the latter varies would depend on the print.
I wonder how much outer wall appearance would vary with line width as well, especially with overhangs. Also counterintuitive, but wider layer widths can actually give better overhangs because it insets the outer wall more on the previous layer, meaning the center of the nozzle is less in free air when extruding. Anyways, very interesting tests and results! I do think I saw a slight improvement in your tests with the precise wall setting on, as especially the lower ridge on your far right test print was smoother. Hard to say not holding it though. A combo of outer wall first, precise wall, good cooling, and perhaps even wider than nozzle width layers could be the ultimate combo. Beyond that, precise extrusion is so important, as you repeatedly mentioned. This seems to be the Achilles heel of the K1 series, for example. Once you get extrusion dialed in, testing all of the other settings reveals a lot.
Yeah, there can be so many things why we can see this happening that I just gave up on trying to fully understand why. The more I dive into 3D printing and how things affect stuff the more I am starting to see that assumptions why are quite often not correct.
The K1 series extruder is armchair engineering at its finest lol, as the drive gears are only supported from one side, with the filament inside, those gears bend out of square and flop and wobble even more, a truly bad design. :/
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE The support on one side only hurts my soul. It would probably perform better as a single gear extruder with even an idler that wasn't supported on one side, hahaha. It's very true that trying to analyze and understand every aspect of printing is a huge ask for one person. That's why practical testing and experience are very important, as well as being willing to question what you thought you knew. A ton of incorrect assumptions and conclusions out there, like you said.
Which extruder would be the perfect upgrade for the K1? Mine is 1200 hours in with no problems but always looking to improve performance and reliability as I hope to keep it for as long as possible.
@@AlexanderSmith600 It's not like the extruder doesn't work, it's when you start to get really picky about ringing and layer lines it will show up most. Not sure what the best upgrade is, but the channel NeedItMakeIt is going to be doing a lot of testing with the Ender 3 V3 series which uses a similar extruder and has similar issues.
Well done for showing this in your prints, I kept switching between Orca and Bambu and got better results, but never realised what settings I changed as I discarded them. You've jogged the memory cells thank you :)
Ok. TESTED. Using the Built in Orca Tolerance test, I am able to get the hex key into the .05 Hole. Previously, I was only able to get down to the .2.
The only change made to the printer was changing to Inner/Outer/Inner.
Awesome to see the results really looking better and better! Congrats! 👌
This solved all my outer line line problems, I thought it was weak cooling . I`ve never suspect that is the wall order so much important for print quality !! Thank you so much for sharing your experiments !!!
You earned a new subscriber with this one. Super fascinating idea, to-the-point video, and a good comparison of results. Well done, keep it up! Excited to check out the other videos on your channel and see what else you have in store in the future. Going to give I/O/I walls a shot on my printer right now!
Just a note on the "prrecise wall", and why it didn't change much: it's intended purpose is to improve dimensional accuracy, which is the aspect I usually care most about. It's nice if it looks pretty, but I most of all want it to work and fit correctly. For that precise wall does exactly what it's supposed to, at least for me. Much less deviation.
Precise wall got me from hard interference at 0.10 mm clearance in the Orca tolerance test to totally free fit at 0.1 mm and light interference at 0.05 mm clearance.
If outer wall is printed in "free space", precise wall should not matter much. It would make outer shell weaker...
@@kimmotoivanen Oh yes, without a pre-existing neighboring inner wall, it should have no or negligible effect. I haven't exactly A/B tested that in great detail though.
Just re-printed a Raspi case I found yesterday, but with OW. All the long straight surfaces came out much smoother, but the narrowest sections around the I/O, and the poles for the self-tapping screws came out a little bit bumpy. So a little bit hit and miss without any additional tuning, which I'll look into. So far I'm quite impressed. I've ignored this setting because I haven't really had any issues with tolerances and that Prusa Slicer has that tooltip that says it would reduce overall quality...
this may be the final piece to my layer consistency journey, I avoided this bc of the stigma against it for "bad overhangs", thank you!
Overhangs are actually better IME with outer first, at least as long aa you have proper cooling. When there's very little material below to bond to, the surface tension effects instead pull the outer to the inner perimeter if it's already there and make it go in the wrong place then curl because the extruded length is wrong for where it goes.
A while ago, I've also started printing infill before walls (infill-outer-inner), so that any points from bad pressure advance get kinda ironed flat by the head moving by. Might be cool to try as well.
Awesome stuff as always!
I've had mild arguments with people that refuse to believe that dual gear extruders have any downside.
in engineering almost everything has Pros and Cons :)
Using a Titan clone... which is surprisingly good in a DD configuration. I wondered why, but I understand now.
Would anti-backlash gears be practical for a dual gear extruder?
OR
Is a single gear extruder just better in all cases?
Dual gear became only a thing because back then the be all end all feature an extruder needed was flawless ninjaflex printing...
Wow im going to try this now. It makes a lot of sense after watching your video. Thanks!
Hopefully it will lead to improvements like I saw on my prints, now I set it to every profile I have ;D
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE I wonder why it's not drfault
Thank you for this video! I came across this setting, probably three or four years ago and noticed the improved quality. In that time. I probably watched over 1000 videos on 3-D printing and yours is the first and only one I’ve ever seen that suggested this setting. 7:27
Great video! I have also been using this setting for a little while now and it’s great. Thanks for the video.
Note that layer with to height ratio and extrousion multiplier also have a huge effect on overhangs and surface consistency
Nice, so what's the rule for that? Could you elaborate a bit more?
Most likely, I have used the most common ones of 0.42mm outer wall width and 0.2mm layer height.
@@TinSVM lower extrousion multiplier can led to better finish but weaker parts and vice versa (inner to outer wall order only)
That’s true, ratio is important.
Think about a 0.4 nozzle printing 0.2 layers:
XXXX
XXXX
XXXX
XXXX
Now cut the layer height in half:
XXXX
XXXX
XXXX
XXXX
There’s much less overhang on each individual layer.
@@TinSVM
For layer width and layer height I believe it's all about increasing the amount of overlap between one layer and the next.
Larger line widths will overlap the previous layer a little more, improving adhesion and therefore overhang quality
Similarly as you reduce the layer height the amount by which the next layer on an overhang is moved out by decreases (because there are more layers and so a finer "grain" to the stepping out), which increases the overlap between layers, improving adhesion and the overhang quality.
Thankyou for this, I really mean it. I have been having issues with My K1 Max for months, tried everything. I used your suggested wall settings and the 2 mm thing and pow! My print layer lines have finally gone
Thanks for sharing! Ill give er a try
tested on the bambu a1 and work perfect! thanks mate for this tips
That's awesome, I'm gonna try! I appreciate you included the comment about the tradeoff as well
Thanks, hope it works well for your printer :)
Nice find, going to try it tonight. Just found your channel, and it’s fantastic! 😊
Thanks :) Hope it helps for your prints!
Thank you! Never heard abou this before. Cant wait to try it.
I started using Cura two years ago for the ultimaker 2+ connect I borrow from time to time and it had outer perimeters first by default.
I was amazed by the quality and dimensional accuracy
Gonna try this today!
Neat slicer trick. This made my layer lines on CF-PETG look massively better.
Glad to hear that :)
Wow! The quality of my prints are so clean!! Thank you
Great tip! Thanks for sharing!
VERY INTERESTING. ALWAYS LOOKING ON HOW TO IMPROVE PRINTS. I’ll have to try ORCA SLICER
Thank you very much for this video. I had no idea that with this simple option, I could improve the print quality so much. With ESUN's ABS+, the quality improved quite a bit for me.
Nice :)
One of the best "3d printing tips" videos, thank you
Glad it was helpful! :)
I have been enjoying your videos for a while now and you appear to be a fellow engineer. So it was time to pony up and join as a member to support you. I hope these types of videos keep coming and that others follow my lead.
Thank you so much! It is very nice to hear when people say they like videos, especially when it comes from an engineer. It confirms that the content is moving in the direction I want it to move. :)
I don't tend to leave comments on videos, but I'll make an exception here - I had bad looking walls for a while now, and haven't thought about changing wall printing order. I just changed this simple setting and printed the best looking piece I ever made. Thank you so much!
Glad it did the trick :)
I first noticed this while tuning print settings for a large format printer at work but completely forgot about it after I started using Bambu/Vorons because the print quality was always good enough
same! for me when printing really fast, its even better for cooling and overhangs. Another thing I miss and am very confused by, slow down inner walls first/only. that way you will get a consistent surface finish even when slowing down for minimum layer time.
Been usong outer wall first for a while. Definitely well worth it. Minimal infill disturbances shown on the outside.
I have one model that I sell as a physical process where itnis causing me issues due to overhang. I wonder if i can do a local section of inner wall first just in the overhang area. Could be interesting to explore it
A lot of my recent prints have had some decent overhangs, which has always prevented me from using sandwich mode out of caution - guess I'll have to give it a go once again!
Most of this has been my experience also. I can't speak to the overhangs though. My overhangs are better than before, but I cannot say for sure that it's because of this setting. I didn't notice it right away, but that's probably because I didn't immediately print things with overhangs before and after making the change.
very useful, thanks!
Some of my best prints came off a Kossel Mini I built way back in 2014 that had a bearing for idler vs driven hobbed idler gear. That said, I'm not a big fan of concave hobbed drive gear or idler, because the filament can walk up the sides of the idler and/or hobbed gear which essentially changes the gear ratio, think CVT transmission and the filament is the belt.
What is this setting in Prusa slicer? There’s a box for “external perimeter first: print contour perimeters from the outermost one to the innermost one instead of the default inverse order.” Is this the same setting?
Would be great if slicers were smarter and could do outer walls first except when it results in floating sections
Jeah. I think there is still an insane amount of optimization to do when it comes to slicers.
Compared to when I was getting into 3D printing and using Cura to today's Orca Slicer, it's like day and night, we have so many great features now that it is crazy. But yeah I have no doubt that SoftFever will optimize it down the line.
As of my testing I get nearly the same result with precise wall as with IOI Walls and also better overhangs. Also for IOI you obviously need 3 walls. I usually print with 2 + PW
Trying this today on my Bambu x1c I wonder if a benchy would show any improvement.
Since you talk about surface finish, have you ever read the article called "Filament Width Compensation Experiments"? (Links not always allowed in YB, no idea why).
It uses a Hall effect sensor to measure filament diameter and Klipper compensates for it.
And you know what I found out today? The Q1 pro has a filament runout sensor on the extruder which is not a simple switch but actually a Hall filament width sensor! Just it's not used as diameter sensor, only as runout.
Maybe you could try to calibrate it and enable it to see how it performs, if it helps or not. The author of the article writes that with that sensor he basically doesn't need to fine tune the extrusion multiplier for each filament, they end up all at about the same value.
Thank you for the helpful video. Do you have the solution how to get rid of wall bulge at transition from base floor to wall?
The seemecnc ezrstruder has one gear and works beautifully
I wonder how well it'll work on prusa slicer since it only has outer first and not inner outer inner
I may give that a try on my Ender 3 S1 with the Zuff cooler.
how do you do this in prusa slicer 2.7?
thanks
You make good job!
is this a possible setting on Prusaslicer? i cant seem to find it
This may be my solution ive looked for.
I have the same issue with my prints so I will try this.
Just keep in mind that all my shots are made with the worst lighting conditions to expose and show the difference the most. Anyone can show good-looking prints with the correct lighting angle. :)
I do 2 walls, inner first, but then extra walls for infill so I have a minimum of 3 walls.
My printer has some retraction ptoblems so I can't use more than 0.3mm retraction so I get some dripping... can't do outer wall first because seam looks like crap, sometimes even has a hole in it...
This setting made me realize how underwhelming the StealthBurner’s cooling is. Moving over to a DragonBurner so I can turn this back on with ABS
Yeah, the Stealthburner is more for looks, its cooling is very weak, though it is enough for ABS.
on my voron, when i want to have really good print quality, i use my hyper speed profile (700mm/s 50k accel) and limit the flowrate to around 20, so the whole model has the same flowrate in the flowrate viewer
If your hotend's max flow is ~100mm^3/s then it fully makes sense. :)
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE its a dragon UHF, its around 45 to 50 on ABS, capping to 20 makes sure every layer has the same flowrate, the speeds are lower because of the cap but the accelerations are still there so its still quite fast
I've actually had difficult prints succeed using IOI that were failing after several other tries.
That seems extremely helpful, i will try it out next since i have problems with part fitting... even though i must admit that i am using an 0.8 mm nozzle which could also affect the overall thinkess of the part walls. Thank you anyway for the recommendation. :)
*Edit: I also want to ask something else depending on the settings I usually use. To be more specific, I am using a much lower printing speed for the outer walls vs the inner and the infill, do you think that this is for the better, doesn't matter? or does it make things worse?
Depends on your setup. Can you print with the same quality at a higher speed?
@@urgamecshk I can print great up to 100 mm/s, at least when it comes to wall speed. The infill starts to underextrude after 80 mm/s for some kind of reason. Anyway, i have already tried the above method from outer to inner wall and worked absolutely amazing for part fittings, which was my purpose. The printing clearences decreased from 0.4-0.5 mm to only 0.1 mm (most likely due to some over extrusion), keep in mind that i am using a 0.8 mm nozzle and due to the extra drooping i saw a decrease of quality (underextrusion) in the begining of the outer wall but in generall the quality was absolutely perfect after that certain point. Btw i am using a Creality spider speedy ceramic hotend and an almost stock CR10S printer.
Inner out inner is the best but remember overhangs will perform worse, so you need to lower the layer height to help compensate. Also Orca and Bambu slicer do a crap job of converting arcs when using arachne, so run it through arc welder afterwards.
Also if you have an X1C you can just add an extra aux fan on the right and your overhangs will be much better.
One bit of information missing is the difference in settings you were using for inner vs out walls? Would you get these results if both were being printed at the same speed/flow? What is the speed difference you were using here?
It was 150/175mm/s speed, not too fast but not too slow either. You won't as the reason why we see such a huge improvement by printing the outer wall before the adjacent inner one is printed is because then the outer wall extrusion is not affected by the inner wall.
I've discovered this too not long ago. The only downside is you CANNOT do this with a model with THREADS! that are functional, like more than 5mm.
It also works wonders thought if you print HEX grids in vertical, makes overhangs droop less.
Truly makes no sense, but great setting.
So suggested one is inner/outer/inner. What about outer/inner setting?
I mean, give it a try, it is very easy to do that. In my opinion, the iw/ow/iw order makes more sense for better results.
what print speeds for the inner and outer wall did you use in the tests?
150/175 mm/s
Question: New to Orca. Ender 3 Pro/Duet I ran the temp tower (PLA) from 195-230. really can't see a difference. Then I did first pass of Flow Calibration, and frankly they all have very nice top layers? I can't really pick a best.
Are you sure that you're seeing the temperatures change as needed? Print again, watch the display to make sure it's changing temps mid print as expected.
*Poor filament OD, Z axis and temperatures accuracy and precision are the main parameters driving how impactful that feature is from my personal experiences (backed with the theory). Hence the more accurate your printing setup the less of an impact this feature makes, which explains why people report so vastly different results. One major drawback of starting with external perimeter is that it (can) makes the seams more visible. Again, this is very dependent on how accurately tuned is one's printing setup.
However, as stated in the video, printing inner wall first, outer second, mid third cames with almost no drawback, while retaining the benefits of simply starting with the outer wall. That's quite annoying that prusaslicer hasn't implemented this feature yet (maybe because the relevant issues are almost non-existing on prusa machines using dried Prusament).
Please do share the extruder mount.
When I use outer walls first I can’t seem to print threads. Threads as in a bolt.
Nice tip, thank you! Can you (or someone else) tell me which printer it is at 3:22 ? it looks nice and simple with bed swinger and linear rails.
That's my fully modded KP3S PRO S1 - www.printables.com/model/433170-kp3s-pro-s1-dual-rail-z-axis-mod (main mod).
It has so many mods that it is anything rather than the KP3S PRO anymore lol.
I think the only problem would be if you're in an area with 100% infill, as there is nowhere for the extra to go when the extrusion is a bit too high. Especially if you're printing tiny things like miniature figures.
Can you share your settings? I used PETG and tried changing the outer wall layer first but the effect did not change
Have you tried with PLA? I saw the least improvement with PETG on my prints, but that was with one very shiny bright filament.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE PLA is very easy to print, even the clear wall printing setting before it still has good results
Yeah, but this setting is mainly about extrusion consistently. I wish I could give you suggestions with PETG but I barely print it nowadays.
Thank you very much . Hopefully one day you can make a video about PETG
I want to try and make this clear… we should use the inner/outter/inner setting? Lmao. This video became a little obscure in the details. Overhangs are bad with this setting, but overall it’s better…?
Gracias!!
Thanks for the video.
I wonder why this is not default.
So far I only found a single scenario where printing OW first was printing in mid-air because of the clever design made for printing IW first. I need to run this for way longer on more variety of prints to fully understand why it is not the default. I see more positives than negatives so far.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE So I've found a potential downside. When printing multiple parts, as the nozzle moves from one part to another there is a small defect that occurs as the nozzle begins to extrude again on the next part. Since your printing the outer perimeter first that defect shows up looking like a bulge in the side of the part. You wouldn't see this with inner perimeters first.
I'm not sure how to tune that out at the moment so I'm going to stick with inner perimeters first on multiple part prints.
Maybe you have some ideas?
@@bluerider0988 are you sure you are using the Inner/Outer/Inner wall ordering option? This can only happen if you use Outer/Inner order or your prints are too thin.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE I'm using the option to print external perimeters first in Prusa Slicer. It's very hard to explain without pictures.
Essentially what I'm seeing is when the nozzle traverses to the new part the place where it touches down and begins to extrude leaves an imperfection. Since this is on an outer perimeter it's visible. If you print the inner perimeters first you won't see this imperfection because it'll be inside the part.
I understand what you are saying, those imperfections are normal if you try to print the OW first. It will be very hard to tune it, you need perfect retractions. That is why I specifically used the inner/outer/inner order. You should give Orca Slicer a fair try, it is hands down the best slicer at this moment in my opinion.
how do i do this on prusaslicer?
Parts shown have IW and OW, but how do they actually translate to slicer settings? Is either of those inner-outer-inner, or is it at all useful?
IW = Inner/Outer option, OW = Inner/Outer/Inner option in all my comparisons.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Thanks for clarification! And first inner wall takes (hides) any speed/temperature/melting phase difference before going to outer wall. Makes sense.
Now, how to make non-driven idler for Orbiter 2 (internet seems entirely void on this topic) without losing too much extrusion force and filament guidance from the gears to the steel tube 😅
Very interesting video. Do you have links to that test object and your overhang test?
I updated the description with all the links to the files :)
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE great! I really like your overhang test. How I've been testing overhangs was I put 4 benchies in a cross pattern and cut the tops off, but yours is far more elegant and effective 😂
Because the shape of each direction is very similar to the front of the 3DBenchy, that is where I got my inspiration as the front of the benchy is difficult to print with average cooling. ;D
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE that's funny to hear, considering that's how I handled cooling testing! Keep up the great work!
3d printed extruders makes me happy
So the video shows Inner/Outer/Inner but the dialogs says Outer first. Which is it?
It's inner first, but it's not the inner that touches the outer (if that makes sense). I don't know how it works with less then 3 perimeters though
The inner/outer/inner option prints the outer wall first before the touching inner wall is printed (this is what makes huge quality boost). We just want to print the OW of our prints before the adjacent inner wall is printed. That's pretty much it.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE But why do you call it inner/outer/inner then?
or surface treat / sand afterwards
Calling it "outer wall first" makes it difficult to understand, since it doesn't actually do the outer wall first
But that is what makes the main difference, printing the outer walls of the print first before the adjacent inner one is printed. However, I agree all of this can be very confusing. ;D A lot of people pointed this out, will try to do better in the future! :)
THANK YOU!! **insert The Office gif** Noticed this artifact YEARS ago, i figured it had something to do with layer times and how the part cools and contacts the filament but never go into it as it seemed too much to get into to "fix" that would either require manually modifying the print every time for every layer after one part has already been printed or get into coding the actual slicer software.. which of course is over my head
in bambu studio we call this the brotherhood of the order of walls
I wish someone would have told me about the brotherhood. I've been suffering for so long, please let me join.
;DD good one
Outer walls first completely ruins the seams though.
Something definitely wrong on your end, my seams look exactly the same on multiple printers.
wait is this not available in bambu studio? looks teh same as orca slicer EDIT: AH its in Quality ->Advanced-> order of Walls
Yeah, almost every slicer should have to print OW first, if it won't work out with Bambu studio make sure to give it a try with Orca. :)
Nice vid, a little bit confusing with outer or inner first. A summarized table or some text blended in would be nice.
Nevertheless about and like is out!
Thanks, yeah I can see that now. The goal is just to print the outer wall before the adjacent inner wall is printed.
genius, thank u
Давно уже печатаю стенки внутрение внешние внутренние, качество заметно выше
I dont know man there is something off... I get almost perfect prints with no Z bandimg with a dual gear and no t printing outer wall first
U guys have to understand u can get a really good result depending on the size of the prints. Every size got a different setup. Also, what you see online is not what you should follow. It is all about self-discovery. If I have a product that I am printing and selling, do you really think that I am just going to release my setting. I've seen here in illinois guy run multiple stock ender printers on the same setting, and when I asked him if he is willing to share, he gave me bogus info. What's more , f up on his product packaging, he is placing made in china. When you are looking for help online, it is like looking for a needle in the haystack. Even manufacturers and their influencers won't share the true setup info cause more u f up more filment they sell.
i simply set super slow accel for outer walls, like 1k but keep the speed high. travel, infill, inner walls are all 20k. this results in super smooth parts. on k1/max also use higher shapers, like EI minimum. there is a big difference between 5k accel and 2k on outer walls. you cant cheat or comenspate physics. also check out classic wall generator vs arachne, classic is constant layer width, arachne varies. on the shown objects with simple geometry you want the classic generator, with details like small text it's arachne. i would also swap motors, since i installed 0.9 steppers vfa are gone. vfa on bambu stock is terrible
no vfa on A1 series though
W T F ? Makes no sense! 😵I'm flab·ber·gast·ed! Gotta try this out now.
Haha
No idea what he said
check COASTING
Isn't it an ancient Cura feature that you shouldn't use with printers with Pressure Advance and Linear Advance?
nope - that thing makes seams get off model@@DIYPERSPECTIVE
Tried that once. And yeah, if you have any overhang you are screwed = ) So I never ever used that since.
I guess a better advice is never ever print at all. You will have like ZERO post-processing. Cool feature, why no one ever used that I wonder? = ))