I've been doing this for years and never knew about chamfering and filing the end before flaring it. Probably would have saved me a lot of poorly done flares that I had to redo. Thanks bigtime
Excellent tutorial! Thank you for being part of the 1% of tutorial video creators that zoom in sufficiently! WHY is that so hard for 99% of video creators??
I’m going to check your other videos out too. I’ve watched several on how to do this, and you’re the first one to show prepping the tube. I love the close up shots, and detailed explanations! Thank you!
I cant believe Ive gone so many yaers not doing this exactly right... Today I am replacing a line on a Sunfire and after tightening the nut the line was loose in the fitting... Im doing this on the car so its a bit harder than having the vice handy... but I have never filed the end of the line as much as I guess I should have been and I think that has made this harder than it has even needed to be... Thank you for making this video.
I'm studying aviation mechanic and use your channel anytime I have a question. thank you for your knowledge you are making me one of the best students.
Thanks for posting this. I watched it a couple of times, then practiced on some brake line off cuts. When i was happy I had got the technique correct i then made replacement lines for a project car that I am working on. All good. No leaks. Thanks again for a really good instructional video.
Replacing *all* of the brake-lines on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible this weekend. This video is *exactly* what I needed. Thanks so much! (I've watched it half-a-dozen times, just to make sure I've got it down. And I'm sure I'll watch it again this weekend before I get started. :-)
Really, this video was much easier to understand than the other videos on TH-cam. I have been following the other video guides and have not been able to get a single flare to come out right after about 15 tries. It looks like the size of the chamfer I was making was too small and I was leaving a little bit too much line protruding from the holder. Thanks!
Needless to say, there are many times that you can't remove the tube from the vehicle. I have found that this tool made to debut bolt threads works outstanding on putting the chamfer on the outside of the tool. It is simple quick and perfect every time. Thanks for your video.
Repairs101 Ah, nothing. Weak attempt at humor. Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I made it through most of my job yesterday, but broke my anvil before the last two flares. I had some single flares on my Jeep that I was replacing (I know they're unsafe, but I had to get it rolling with what I had at the time).
Jon McKinnis I caught the humor and attempted to add my own (apologizing for being polite?) but thanks for that. PS: good luck with your Jeep. I know what it's like to have to do what you have to do. PPS: I know a lot of CDNs and they're not all polite. Especially in traffic.
Thanks for the walkthrough guide on using the flaring tool. I have one and while the instructions that came with were well-written and concise, seeing it done properly while explained so well is extremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. :)
Very informative and well shot. Thanks for the close-ups and the step-by-step instructions. I'm replacing my truck's brake line today (now that it has warmed up a bit, finally) and while I've done this in the past, it's good to have a refresher on the steps. Thanks!
Thank you! That was exactly what I needed to see. Was concise and your use of correct terms for the process was very welcome to my ears. Nice to learn something the right way. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. You got a new subscriber.
Thanks for the video and it was straight forward and even included the importance of BRAKES. Now I'm ready to fix my brake line, as it had to be sawed off due to the fitting becoming one with the caliper and I replaced the 19 yr. old caliper.
Daniel Rynberg I've seen that happen many times - usually try pre soaking with penetrating oil the night before and using flare nut wrenches but sometimes they're so far gone it's a joke. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
On a side note for people it is good practice to deburr your brake line while holding it upside down that way you can minimize the chance of any metal shavings being left behind inside your brake line which could in return damage the rubber seal in your brake calliper
Gear informative how to video! Did flares my whole life but only 1 or two doubles so I always need a refresh, this was AAA+ how to vid thank you and keep them coming. I would give you an Emmy for how well you did and filmed this video! Note: hard to find just anvil when you already have flaring kit. To the best of my knowledge you can't generally buy just the anvil, so you can get a discount set and use with your good flaring tool set or ask a local mechanic to borrow the part if you are only going to do it once. Some auto parts stores will loan yo the tool also.
+WOOODYII2 - Thanks! Always glad to share what I've learned. (And all modesty aside I've made dozens of great videos. Have a look!) Thanks for commenting!
I was going to ask if this could be done on-the-vehicle, to replace, say, a rusted section, but I predict your answer would be: It depends--on whether there is a suitably long straight section in an area with room enough to be confident that flares can be made well. What would help would be smaller tools to facilitate the chamfering and flaring in a tight space. I'm thinking of a one-size flaring tool and a "cone maker" file or hone that slips over the tubing end to file the chamfer.
Steve Lipofsky Hydraulic pressure of a brake system would burst copper pipe with the first tap of the pedal. ONLY use double walled steel tubing for brake systems. Good luck!
nice video. doing this on the car might not be steady vs making the clean line outside on the bench. any suggestions? Can this tool be rented from auto parts stores?
Thanks for the fast reply! I may not have described the line correctly. Here's the description from AutoZone: Domestic/Import Premium nickel-copper brake line coil does not rust or corrode & bends 58% easier than steel tubing. OE on many european vehicles.
Steve Lipofsky I honestly can't recall ever using that product. Maybe ask ETCG or ScottyKilmer, they're more likely to have used it (I am primarily a boat mechanic but with many years on HD equipment like forklifts and cranes).
Great video good detail and explanation. I am just about to attempt this job on my Vauxhall vectra elite wish me luck and thank you for your videos Richard Oxford England
Good video thank you sir , i have a question for you , recently i did a fitting compression in my master cylinder hose that carry fluid to abs pump but i wanna know is that safe or not ?
+John Ceci - if they're witness marks - impressions - that's normal - if you have the line turning in the flaring bar then your bar is not gripping adequately and possibly no amount of tightening will fix that - I threw away 2 cheap sets before I got the Blue Point set.
Chances are, I may have had a hand in on making your flaring tool. I worked at a machine shop called Dowley Manufacturing for quite a few years and we made them for snap on blue point mac and several other names
Joe Corrie "Each line is made by double wrapping a copper coated steel strip to form a double wall tube. Next, the tube is furnace brazed to fuse the copper/steel tube into one continuous and seamless tube." www.plews-edelmann.com/standard-steel-lines/
y is it that when I tighting my flare tool down its turning side ways and won't turn straight down I'm using the tool by hand with poly armor brake line I don't think the line is str enough it seems to bend inside the tool where do u get strong brake tube from
This video is great and I'm sure I'd have decent flares after watching it apart from one issue. The flaring kit I bought doesn't have the little step on the tool to indicate how much the line should protrude from the clamp. Would anyone be able to measure this for me on a 3/16th tool? Thanks!
+Matthew Thompson I'd appreciate it! However that tool is going in the bin as it can't even hold the line tight enough to flare it - and when I was attempting to tighten it more with vice grips the wing nuts snapped. I've ordered a different style now, if you search for serenco you should be able to find it, hopefully I'll have better luck with that.
Hi, great video, thanks. I have a couple questions. I'm looking at your external chamfer. It's one of the steeper angled/longer/more aggressive chamfers I've seen done. Is there a specific advantage to this? On your cutaway double flare (great idea, btw), I'm not seeing any substantial chamfer. The edge just looks like it's rounded slightly. I would think that an aggressive chamber would give you a gap where the two layers sandwich together, or, even worse, if it were to compress, it could change the 45 degree angle where the flare marries the fitting. At least, it could change the angle for the length of the chamfer. Does thinner material stretch better during flaring? With a thinner edge is the tubing less likely to split? On most videos that I'm seeing, the external chamfer is less about thinning the edge of the line and more about just making sure there are no burrs. My existing lines that I'm splicing into aren't all that accessible, so the kind of filing that I'd need to do to achieve your chamfer would be close to impossible. I'd also be greatly concerned that the chamfer would end up uneven, which would then portend poorly for the flare.
Great questions William. I'll say yes and the advantages are your next questions - yes and yes. I always had issues with inadequately chamfered flares. The cutaway is factory made, likely by a robot. FWIW I exaggerated the chamfer for the camera, then cut it way back on the bench grinder.
@@repairs101 Thank you for the timely clarification. It's not the answer I wanted but... if adequately chamfered flares have historically been less problematic for your, then, a-chamfering I will go ;) While I've got you. Any tips on flaring old lines that are on the vehicle? The areas where I'm splicing are in pretty good shape. They've got a layer of paint, some white deposits, and maybe a discoloration or two to the steel (tiny copper-ish look spots), but everything comes off with some fairly light sanding. I picked up a Titan tool and, while the surface on my flares that mates to the fitting is angled well and smooth, sometimes the hole can get a tiny bit oval. Also, what's your advice for torquing steel pipe in brass unions with steel fittings? Hand tight and then a quarter turn? A half turn?
@@williampierson4340 There is a flaring tool design that is made for on vehicle use. I don't have one - I believe in replacing lines - but I think all the major players (Snap-On etc) make one. Maybe try to get a small die grinder in there to do the chamfers. Oval may be from squeezing too tight but I've never used a Titan. I was not taught to do 1/4 turns 1/2 turns to apply torque. I was taught to develop a feel for it which I cannot teach in this forum. Repetition is the key. It's something like - snug plus a scootch. Good luck!
@@repairs101 I was able to buy an external chamfering drill bit, and so far, that's been working well for me. I also bought an extra set of unions and have been practicing tightening with those with some of the steel tubing that I cut out. So far, it looks like they can take quite a lot of torque without an issue. One last question :) I'm looking at the wall thickness on the copper nickel that I'm splicing in and notice that it really doesn't have much to chamfer. Copper nickel is so malleable, I'm guessing a chamfer might not be necessary, right? Just a deburr?.
Nice video. My prefab brakeline kit had brass fittings. I cant believe they would provide a dangerous fitting?? I dont think I have seen fittings that were not brass. I think brass may be better since it is softer than aluminum (like a master cylinder casting) and that crossthreading won't ruin the piece its going into.
What would cause a brake line connection to leak out the back where the line goes through opposite the threaded side? its on brand new line Ive tried 3 different brand new connectors cut the line back and re flaired it 4-5 times, all my other connections I did the same day (using your method thank you by the way pulling my bench grinder out and prepping the connections was brilliant...!!!) no other leaks just that one spot where it goes from hard line to flex line to the rear diff. its where the first leak was that prompted me to change the whole line front to rear then when I was attaching it the lines on the diff cracked (all rotted) so I replaced them but that connection STILL leaks with all new line. I cannot use the grinder on it because of the location Id have to pull the whole section like 12ft that feeds through the frame and behind the gas tank lol any thoughts? jb weld maybe or.....??
Wow tough one. First thing that comes to mind is maybe the fitting you have is Bubble flare not Double flare? Next idea maybe the line is brittle and the flares are cracking - make sure the chamfer you grind is as small as you can make it - the idea is to facilitate rolling the double flare without weakening the flare wall and or edge. Good luck.
That's a really nice flare, and a pretty nice solid looking tool set. But there are certainly brass fittings on brake lines sometimes. I restored my MG with a set of brake lines and all the fittings were brass (tubing is CuNiFer). I mean, right?
Very well done video, thanks for no music, no yelling, and no swearing....a rare gem on the tube these days
Thanks! Check out some of my other vids when you get a chance - I think they're getting even better,
So true
I've been doing this for years and never knew about chamfering and filing the end before flaring it. Probably would have saved me a lot of poorly done flares that I had to redo. Thanks bigtime
Excellent tutorial! Thank you for being part of the 1% of tutorial video creators that zoom in sufficiently!
WHY is that so hard for 99% of video creators??
I’m going to check your other videos out too. I’ve watched several on how to do this, and you’re the first one to show prepping the tube. I love the close up shots, and detailed explanations! Thank you!
Rock on, Jason!
"A little drop of DOT 3..." EVERYWHERE
Very good camera work, very helpful!
Excellent tutorial. You Sir, are an instructor. So many videos on YT trying to show how to do a job fail miserably. This was WELL done, thank you.
Easily the Best brake flaring video on TH-cam!
A far better video than the first one I watched. Now to practice my double flares on some scrap brake line before doing the real thing. Thanks.
Thanks, James!
I cant believe Ive gone so many yaers not doing this exactly right... Today I am replacing a line on a Sunfire and after tightening the nut the line was loose in the fitting... Im doing this on the car so its a bit harder than having the vice handy... but I have never filed the end of the line as much as I guess I should have been and I think that has made this harder than it has even needed to be... Thank you for making this video.
I'm studying aviation mechanic and use your channel anytime I have a question. thank you for your knowledge
you are making me one of the best students.
Glad to help but let's be honest - it is you who makes you one of the best students.
Thanks for writing in!
love this guy " couple of drops" seriously this is the best flaring tutorial online!
Thanks Pat!
Started out a little rough; I was wanting to see the process without fluff. Glad I stayed with it. Very good demonstration of the process
Rock on!
Thanks for posting this. I watched it a couple of times, then practiced on some brake line off cuts. When i was happy I had got the technique correct i then made replacement lines for a project car that I am working on. All good. No leaks. Thanks again for a really good instructional video.
Glad I could help. Thanks for commenting! Good luck with your ride!
Replacing *all* of the brake-lines on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible this weekend. This video is *exactly* what I needed. Thanks so much! (I've watched it half-a-dozen times, just to make sure I've got it down. And I'm sure I'll watch it again this weekend before I get started. :-)
What a great video. So well done with the close ups, explanations, and cut-away. Excellent job, sir!
Really, this video was much easier to understand than the other videos on TH-cam. I have been following the other video guides and have not been able to get a single flare to come out right after about 15 tries. It looks like the size of the chamfer I was making was too small and I was leaving a little bit too much line protruding from the holder. Thanks!
Mn
That’s a perfect flare!!
still awesome, 9 yrs later, thx for the refresher!
Rock on, Tony!
Great video. Most flaring videos aren't in focus when they zoom in to see the parts. Your close-up shots really helped.
Thanks Joel, glad I could help.
@@repairs101 how you knw what fittings to use
Right I have watched 5-6 and they see how this goes here etc lmfao no dumbass it’s blurred and you’re using a iPhone 4 lmmfao newbs
Good video - Thanks - I am a lot older than you , but hadn't used my flaring tools for a long time, excellent refresher.
Needless to say, there are many times that you can't remove the tube from the vehicle. I have found that this tool made to debut bolt threads works outstanding on putting the chamfer on the outside of the tool. It is simple quick and perfect every time. Thanks for your video.
Thanks for the info!
You Canadians are always so polite.
Ummm, sorry?
Repairs101 Ah, nothing. Weak attempt at humor. Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I made it through most of my job yesterday, but broke my anvil before the last two flares. I had some single flares on my Jeep that I was replacing (I know they're unsafe, but I had to get it rolling with what I had at the time).
Jon McKinnis I caught the humor and attempted to add my own (apologizing for being polite?) but thanks for that. PS: good luck with your Jeep. I know what it's like to have to do what you have to do. PPS: I know a lot of CDNs and they're not all polite. Especially in traffic.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
It helped me get it.
Thanks for the walkthrough guide on using the flaring tool. I have one and while the instructions that came with were well-written and concise, seeing it done properly while explained so well is extremely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to make the video. :)
Charles Fuller Thank you for taking the time to comment! Don't forget to subscribe!
Wow 8 Years old and this video is great quality 👏 👌
Thank you!!
Great Clean and clear instructions . love that fact that you took the tim to ensure the close ups were clear
Very informative and well shot. Thanks for the close-ups and the step-by-step instructions. I'm replacing my truck's brake line today (now that it has warmed up a bit, finally) and while I've done this in the past, it's good to have a refresher on the steps. Thanks!
Hope the weather held for you and thanks for commenting!
Thank you! That was exactly what I needed to see. Was concise and your use of correct terms for the process was very welcome to my ears. Nice to learn something the right way. I appreciate your time. Thanks again. You got a new subscriber.
Glad it helped!
The best instuction video I've seen yet.
Thanks, Alberto!
Best double flaring video I could find on the interwebs ... nice job bro. I've been doing it wrong for years :)
Great video! Couldn't have done my IH pickup tonight without you.
Rock on!
Very informative without a lot of fluff...thank you!
superfeedbacker You really are a superfeedbacker! Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the video and it was straight forward and even included the importance of BRAKES. Now I'm ready to fix my brake line, as it had to be sawed off due to the fitting becoming one with the caliper and I replaced the 19 yr. old caliper.
Daniel Rynberg I've seen that happen many times - usually try pre soaking with penetrating oil the night before and using flare nut wrenches but sometimes they're so far gone it's a joke. Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Excellent tutorial. You included a couple of pointers I did not see in other videos on this subject.
This reminds me if watching PBS this old house. Great video
Cool, thanks.
Fantastic video, never done this before, but I'm now ready for the challenge. I thank you.
thank you. best automotive home-shop diy video I have seen. Easy to follow and understand. nice steady camera work.
Thanks man! Truck drove all the way home!
Glad I could help
On a side note for people it is good practice to deburr your brake line while holding it upside down that way you can minimize the chance of any metal shavings being left behind inside your brake line which could in return damage the rubber seal in your brake calliper
Gear informative how to video! Did flares my whole life but only 1 or two doubles so I always need a refresh, this was AAA+ how to vid thank you and keep them coming.
I would give you an Emmy for how well you did and filmed this video!
Note: hard to find just anvil when you already have flaring kit. To the best of my knowledge you can't generally buy just the anvil, so you can get a discount set and use with your good flaring tool set or ask a local mechanic to borrow the part if you are only going to do it once. Some auto parts stores will loan yo the tool also.
Thanks Shoestring!
Best flare video I have ever seen!!!! Thank you very much for such a great video!!
+WOOODYII2 - Thanks! Always glad to share what I've learned. (And all modesty aside I've made dozens of great videos. Have a look!) Thanks for commenting!
Thank u for posting a very informative video. After seeing this u cant go wrong!
Thanks for commenting. I'm always happy to hear that people like what I'm producing.
Nice Job! No BS and right to the point. Very well done sir
I just bought a double flare tool today and the directions that came with it were minimal at best. Great video!
Thanks for the refresher course. Nicely demonstrated 👏
Glad it was helpful!
I was going to ask if this could be done on-the-vehicle, to replace, say, a rusted section, but I predict your answer would be: It depends--on whether there is a suitably long straight section in an area with room enough to be confident that flares can be made well. What would help would be smaller tools to facilitate the chamfering and flaring in a tight space. I'm thinking of a one-size flaring tool and a "cone maker" file or hone that slips over the tubing end to file the chamfer.
Super helpful, this helps my next lab homework, will be getting pretty decent mark on that.
Thank you for the instruction.
Cool just don't rely on TH-cam - cross reference against other sources!
very impressed with the quality of your videos. you just got another subscriber!
+Daniel Trocino - Thanks Daniel!
Great job, better than the others I watched.
Thanks, John.
Video is informative but I would have liked to have seen how the end of the tube looked after using the anvil but before actually flaring.
Excellent video. Now I know what I've been doing wrong! Never knew about the pre chamfer part......
Glad I could help!
Great video and close ups..... Going to do mine today... Thanks!
Thanks and good luck!
An excellent clear and understandable video . I thank you !
Great video, it was very informative. Thanks for taking the time out to make it!
+Joseph Wilson - Thanks for taking the time out to comment!
This guy sounds like the Bob Ross of automotive
I'm dead😂 he does.
Stop making fun of people!
Nice video man thank you so much! You just saved me so much headache
Great video, Thanks! Is there a problem with using the flexible copper alloy tubing?
Steve Lipofsky Hydraulic pressure of a brake system would burst copper pipe with the first tap of the pedal. ONLY use double walled steel tubing for brake systems. Good luck!
Repairs101
In the UK we use either copper (won't rust but is not strong) or preferably cupro-nickel which is strong AND won't rust.
Great video. Detailed and to the point.
nice video. doing this on the car might not be steady vs making the clean line outside on the bench. any suggestions? Can this tool be rented from auto parts stores?
Snap-On makes a flaring tool for working on the vehicle. Probably some others too.
i made a few brake lines for the trucks and works a treet very well done
Thanks for the fast reply! I may not have described the line correctly. Here's the description from AutoZone: Domestic/Import
Premium nickel-copper brake line coil does not rust or corrode & bends 58% easier than steel tubing. OE on many european vehicles.
Steve Lipofsky I honestly can't recall ever using that product. Maybe ask ETCG or ScottyKilmer, they're more likely to have used it (I am primarily a boat mechanic but with many years on HD equipment like forklifts and cranes).
Great video good detail and explanation. I am just about to attempt this job on my Vauxhall vectra elite wish me luck and thank you for your videos Richard Oxford England
Good luck!
Good video thank you sir , i have a question for you , recently i did a fitting compression in my master cylinder hose that carry fluid to abs pump but i wanna know is that safe or not ?
you are the best simple and understandble
GAR A Thanks!
This is just what I needed! Very informative, thank You!!!
Glad I could help!
How tight should I tighten the wingnuts on the holder for the line? I keep scoring around the brake line when making the flares...
+John Ceci - if they're witness marks - impressions - that's normal - if you have the line turning in the flaring bar then your bar is not gripping adequately and possibly no amount of tightening will fix that - I threw away 2 cheap sets before I got the Blue Point set.
Thanks, going to try one more time cranking down on them as hard as possible, if no go then this set goes back to AutoZone...
Thanks! I was wondering how this was done. I plan to replumb the brake system on an old truck soon.
Glad I could help. Thanks for commenting!
A True Craftsman.
Thank you you saved my Saabs brake lines! :)
Always happy to help!
Thanks alot, very clear instructions ! Will be doing some break lines this weekend !
Very good video! Thanks for taking the time to do it.
:)
Chances are, I may have had a hand in on making your flaring tool. I worked at a machine shop called Dowley Manufacturing for quite a few years and we made them for snap on blue point mac and several other names
Cool!
Great video. I need to make a bubble flare. How do I make this ?
Thanks
Harold Hulle Similar process but with a different kit like this one goo.gl/UgJA7J or this one goo.gl/jpgke1 Good luck!
i'm lost, what is a double wall steel line' it looked like a single wall tube with a doubled wall flare, please correct me if i'm wrong ?
Joe Corrie "Each line is made by double wrapping a copper coated steel strip to form a double wall tube. Next, the tube is furnace brazed to fuse the copper/steel tube into one continuous and seamless tube." www.plews-edelmann.com/standard-steel-lines/
y is it that when I tighting my flare tool down its turning side ways and won't turn straight down I'm using the tool by hand with poly armor brake line I don't think the line is str enough it seems to bend inside the tool where do u get strong brake tube from
I don't know where you live, Dude.
In Canada try Lordco, Princess Auto, NAPA, any automotive supply shop.
This video is great and I'm sure I'd have decent flares after watching it apart from one issue. The flaring kit I bought doesn't have the little step on the tool to indicate how much the line should protrude from the clamp. Would anyone be able to measure this for me on a 3/16th tool? Thanks!
I just bought one today.....ill measure it in the morning if you want.
I just bought one today.....ill measure it in the morning if you want.
I just bought one today.....ill measure it in the morning if you want.
+Matthew Thompson I'd appreciate it! However that tool is going in the bin as it can't even hold the line tight enough to flare it - and when I was attempting to tighten it more with vice grips the wing nuts snapped. I've ordered a different style now, if you search for serenco you should be able to find it, hopefully I'll have better luck with that.
VERY NICE! best job ive seen while looking for this info! Thanks!
Great video!! I am a first timer and thought I had them until I got leaks.
Glad I could help!
Good videos. Thanks. Is that a SAE 45 deg ?
I have the flaring tools. Can I just by the anvil you used? Where?
Mine came with the kit. Ask you Snap-on dealer (or other quality tool seller).
Great job, thank you!
Really helped me.
Great video, this is the only video that I have seen and understood chamfering. Any chance of you producing a bubble flare?
Hi, great video, thanks. I have a couple questions.
I'm looking at your external chamfer. It's one of the steeper angled/longer/more aggressive chamfers I've seen done. Is there a specific advantage to this? On your cutaway double flare (great idea, btw), I'm not seeing any substantial chamfer. The edge just looks like it's rounded slightly.
I would think that an aggressive chamber would give you a gap where the two layers sandwich together, or, even worse, if it were to compress, it could change the 45 degree angle where the flare marries the fitting. At least, it could change the angle for the length of the chamfer.
Does thinner material stretch better during flaring? With a thinner edge is the tubing less likely to split?
On most videos that I'm seeing, the external chamfer is less about thinning the edge of the line and more about just making sure there are no burrs. My existing lines that I'm splicing into aren't all that accessible, so the kind of filing that I'd need to do to achieve your chamfer would be close to impossible. I'd also be greatly concerned that the chamfer would end up uneven, which would then portend poorly for the flare.
Great questions William. I'll say yes and the advantages are your next questions - yes and yes.
I always had issues with inadequately chamfered flares.
The cutaway is factory made, likely by a robot.
FWIW I exaggerated the chamfer for the camera, then cut it way back on the bench grinder.
@@repairs101 Thank you for the timely clarification. It's not the answer I wanted but... if adequately chamfered flares have historically been less problematic for your, then, a-chamfering I will go ;)
While I've got you. Any tips on flaring old lines that are on the vehicle? The areas where I'm splicing are in pretty good shape. They've got a layer of paint, some white deposits, and maybe a discoloration or two to the steel (tiny copper-ish look spots), but everything comes off with some fairly light sanding. I picked up a Titan tool and, while the surface on my flares that mates to the fitting is angled well and smooth, sometimes the hole can get a tiny bit oval.
Also, what's your advice for torquing steel pipe in brass unions with steel fittings? Hand tight and then a quarter turn? A half turn?
@@williampierson4340 There is a flaring tool design that is made for on vehicle use. I don't have one - I believe in replacing lines - but I think all the major players (Snap-On etc) make one. Maybe try to get a small die grinder in there to do the chamfers. Oval may be from squeezing too tight but I've never used a Titan. I was not taught to do 1/4 turns 1/2 turns to apply torque. I was taught to develop a feel for it which I cannot teach in this forum. Repetition is the key. It's something like - snug plus a scootch. Good luck!
@@repairs101 I was able to buy an external chamfering drill bit, and so far, that's been working well for me.
I also bought an extra set of unions and have been practicing tightening with those with some of the steel tubing that I cut out. So far, it looks like they can take quite a lot of torque without an issue.
One last question :) I'm looking at the wall thickness on the copper nickel that I'm splicing in and notice that it really doesn't have much to chamfer. Copper nickel is so malleable, I'm guessing a chamfer might not be necessary, right? Just a deburr?.
@@williampierson4340 Yes.
That was loud n clear! thank you for the info!
mtbracingteam Just glad to be a part of the team!
Nice video. My prefab brakeline kit had brass fittings. I cant believe they would provide a dangerous fitting?? I dont think I have seen fittings that were not brass. I think brass may be better since it is softer than aluminum (like a master cylinder casting) and that crossthreading won't ruin the piece its going into.
Best video so far! Thank you!!!
thanks for that excellent demonstration
What would cause a brake line connection to leak out the back where the line goes through opposite the threaded side? its on brand new line Ive tried 3 different brand new connectors cut the line back and re flaired it 4-5 times, all my other connections I did the same day (using your method thank you by the way pulling my bench grinder out and prepping the connections was brilliant...!!!) no other leaks just that one spot where it goes from hard line to flex line to the rear diff. its where the first leak was that prompted me to change the whole line front to rear then when I was attaching it the lines on the diff cracked (all rotted) so I replaced them but that connection STILL leaks with all new line. I cannot use the grinder on it because of the location Id have to pull the whole section like 12ft that feeds through the frame and behind the gas tank lol any thoughts? jb weld maybe or.....??
Wow tough one. First thing that comes to mind is maybe the fitting you have is Bubble flare not Double flare? Next idea maybe the line is brittle and the flares are cracking - make sure the chamfer you grind is as small as you can make it - the idea is to facilitate rolling the double flare without weakening the flare wall and or edge. Good luck.
That's a really nice flare,
and a pretty nice solid looking tool set.
But there are certainly brass fittings on brake lines sometimes.
I restored my MG with a set of brake lines and all the fittings were brass (tubing is CuNiFer).
I mean, right?
Older machines of all sorts have brass fittings but in mechanics school they taught us that all steel was the new standard and to be used exclusively
Thanks alot for this video! im actually working on my break lines right now
Happy to help! Good luck!
I came into on problem I cant flair the old breakline at all. but I'm going to just put all new breaklines on.
Great video. Thanx for taking the time to share
Tom Houfer Thanks for commenting!
great video straight to the good stuff! Thanks for putting that together
This video couldn't have been better. Thanks a lot!
+Jursaw - This comment couldn't have been better. Thanks a lot!
What a great explanation! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
so the first step made a bubble flare and the second step a double/inverted flare?
1. Single
2. Double
A Bubble flare was not shown in this video. A Bubble flaring kit starts at $200. The kit shown is well under $100.
I'd like to say thanks too, this will definitely help me!
Right on! Thanks for commenting!
My tool just keeps pushing the line farther down,seems like how ever hard I turn the wing nuts it doesn't hold the line tight enough.
Gotta buy good quality.
You are simply great Very well done
I missed the part where the wall gets folded over to make a double-thickness flare?
That is at 5:42
Good demonstration, thanks.
+John Graham - Rock on John! Thanks for commenting!