Straight up and informative. My tool came with no instructions and my flares were a mess and now I know why. Some of the best 10 minutes of instruction I've seen. No cutesy comments, jokes, mugging for the camera, or aggravating music or shop noise. Thanks.
I'm taking Heavy Mechanical Trade Foundation. I had no idea what our instructor explained during the class so I searched TH-cam and found this video. It was well explained so I understood what it is and the procedures of making a good pipe flaring. Thank you for the video this helps me a lot with my studying. The flare made in the video looks very beautiful.
Another veteran mechanic here . After years of making hit-or-miss double flares , you came to my aid and showed me the better way ! Thanks for all who benefited from your video ! Have you been out racing again this year ?
Thank you for taking the time to patiently share your skill with this. Fixing brake lines has seemed far beyond me, but seeing this is warming me up to the task. Take care.
This is a great video for the tool shown, but there is a much better tool on the market now. I used the flaring tools shown in this video for my rear brake lines and two years later I found Eastwood's on car flaring Tool #31244 and used it for my front brake lines. Eastwood's is $36 but there is absolutely no comparison at all. Don't even hesitate to buy the tool. My rear lines were weeping at installation. I had to over tighten them to get a good seating. Out of 4 flares on the front with no over tightening, I had no leaks at all. The flares were bigger and spot on. No oval or bent shapes every time even the first time.Here are key tips I found to get the job done right:1. Straighten the tube near the last 2 inches of each end as much as possible. You want your cut and flare form tools to meet the ends squarely. I used a metal straight edge to check straightness.2. Cut the tube as squarely as possible. A standard tubing cutter worked. Just pay attention that you are not pulling it to the side as you go.3. Chamfer the tube inner diameter evenly. I used a chamfer bit in a drill since I had the bit. A drill bit should work, but use it in a drill to help create even chamfering.4. Chamfer the outer diameter of the tube. I had to use a file by hand just as in this video. Try to make it as evenly as possible. Eastwood has a tool for the inner and outer chamfer but I didn't buy it.5. Remove old brake lines. Try to keep them in their original shape without twisting them up. I made a flare on one end of my replacement tube following Eastwood's tool instructions exactly and slide a new fitting on that end. If you don't know what fittings to use, I went on the big chain auto parts store web site. Look up your replacement master cylinder and check for the port fittings. It tells you what fitting will work. The primary port on any two port master cylinder is the port closest to the mounting surface according to Google. Do the same for the "rubber" brake lines to find those fittings. I bent my new brake lines by hand and attached them to the old brake lines so I could follow the bends accurately. Attach them together using tape, fat rubber bands, old shoe laces, etc. Attach them at one end, bend following the old tube, attach a little more and repeat. I used a tubing bending tool a few times. It's easier to bend them while sitting comfortably in the house rather than when under the car. When the new brake line is bent against the old it will scratch off the protective rust coating unless you wrap it with Saran Wrap or the like. One goal here is so that the ends fit straight into the fitting they will screw into. You want them straight so that the flare seats squarely.6. I Installed stainless steel 3/16" brake line gravel guard over the tubes. These are like a long spring. Walmart was the cheapest. Flare the other end. If you forget to put the fitting on before flaring, you can cut the flare off very, very close to the fitting. Notice that the cutting tools have a notch in one of the rollers. The flare sits in the notch so you can cut it off very closely.7. Apply just a fine amount of oil to the fitting threads and also the back side of the flare where the fitting will press the flare. You don't want any oil contaminating the seating side of the flare. You will be bleeding the lines, but don't contaminate anyway. It's not a good practice. This allows much more of the fitting torque to be applied toward seating the flare rather than overcoming friction.8. When installing the new tube, make sure the tube allows the fittings to go in straight. You know it is straight if you can screw the fitting in with your FINGERS ONLY while you wiggle the tube. Finally, continuously wiggle and seat the flares using a wrench. No over tightening needed. No leaks. No worrying about brake failure.Please thumbs up if this helps.
I’ve gone to three or four junkyards to find a short 3/16 steel brake line from the master cylinder to the left front brake line! Somebody always messes up the flare nuts previously! I messed up my original flare Nut ! I will now re-flare the regional brake line with a flare nut kit And install a new Nut using a new flare nut wrench! Knowledge is the greatest gift a man can bestow on another! Thank you very much!
The single MOST important step that isn't heavily pointed out is the bevel you need to file on the outside before you attempt to flare. If you don't bevel it enough, the adapter will try lop over to the side. Also, use EXTRA line to practice on FIRST before you try to wok on the good line you want to fix/make. I tried about 5 times, with the adapter lopping to one side ruining the flare before I realized I wasn't putting a good enough bevel. When I did, it flared right.
Peshmerga مثير الحرب I concur, and now he should have a twelve pack. (If all that liked actually gave him a can/bottle of beer.) I know I will, just as soon as he swings on over.
Agreed! I was just about to give up on making my own and plopping down $120 for a complete set of premade lines for my Jeep, when I only need to make 3pcs. Now I know what I was doing wrong on my test flare. 👍
I didn't have access to a deburring tool. and your showing how to deburr the line with a knife. made it so I could complete the job. without going and getting a deburring tool thanks.
I do want to point out how helpful this vid is overall. I was not complaining.. just adding a bit of additional helpful info for others who might not realize how important a good bevel is.
Thank you for this video. The first Time I ever needed to flare brake lines. I made seven unsuccessful attempts. The line kept crashing over to one side. The trick I needed to learn was to lubricate the adapter. My first attempt after doing so was successful!!!! Thank you.
Great tip on not overtightening the flare tool. I would think that mounting the flare bar vertically with the side to be flared facing down at an angle for the filing would allow more of the filings to fall out of the tube. Using a Q-tip on the inside to remove any wayward bits. A vertical mount would be good for working with longer lines. Thank you for the great video. I learned something useful here.
thanks for the video... a tip that will certainly be handy... if you do not have a proper chamfering tool... the point of a sharp drill bit that is about twice the diameter of the inside diameter of the hole can be turned by hand as a chamfering tool .. much safer than a knife... and produce much better results much easier; that said... i suspect that most professionals would suggest only a very slight chamfer is appropriate, maybe .015", as any chamfer, as with any protruding burs, will potentially reduce the effectiveness of the seal.
The details in your instructions really make a difference to the end result, thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me a boat load of cash replacing my rear brake lines!
I’ve been working on cars non professionally for close to 40 years, I have done a double flare, needed one done a year ago for a transmission line, was working with a guy that made it look like rocket science combined with a drunk sailor, ended up with a pile of scrap but he gotter dun! Any time I’ve needed a double flare, I cheated and bought a pre made one at auto zoned and used a compression fitting (disregarding all warnings that they are not to be used with brake lines despite they are on the same display rack as the proper fittings). However, with your excellent video demonstrating exactly how easy this is to do, I am going on eBay and ordering the double flare tool like yours! Thank you
No freakin way. I'm literally watching this to double check that I'm using this tool correctly to repair a transmission line on my 64 galaxie. What are the odds? Thanks for the video.
Much appreciated! --- It's the little details that are usually not mentioned in instructions. I appreciate you mentioning the small details. BTW, I see other comments about debris in the lines after deburring; and although it's worth noting, I think folks comfortable doing this repair know to clean the lines, so NP. FWIW, viewers that have worked on cars, taken a high school auto-shop class, or even a metal-shop class, etc. should know (by default), that you Always clean out (any) lines when making major repairs / replacement like this whether Brake, Fuel or any other line else they should not be performing this operation. The main point of the video was about the "double-flare" and was explained well. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! It had been 10 years since I did a brake line, and this was a great refresher for my power steering line for my '78 GMC motorhome.
Great instructional video on double flaring. Used this video to help me do the rear brake lines on my son's 99 Civic about a year ago, and now, unfortunately, I'm back for a refresher before doing the fronts. Thanks!
It's good to have the opening of the tube facing downward when filing flat and beveling. That way, all the chips don't go down into the tube. Also, blowing out the dust from the opposite with compressed air is good. Do all of this before applying any fluid as a lubricant which would trap all the metal dust inside the tube.
Great Video! I learn a couple things from this and am very glad I did. My last Tech School class was in 1984 and this video helped me to refresh my memory. Like he said, "Proper preparation is Key!" Thank you!
I want to say thanks! my flares turned out great and there are no leaks! I am 67 and never was able to watch a Double Flare being done. Before youtubeI learned by watching friends but i think I still am just did it in my recliner .
So now the video is 12 years old. I wanted to replace the lines in my truck with stainless but they just don’t have them. I was willing to spend the $265 too. Now, armed with a roll of brake line, flare tool and your information I am done…job came out perfectly and was under $50.00 Thanks for this video!
I had trouble a couple of years ago trying to do this. I kept getting the flare off center. The extra steps you provided had me get a nice flare on the first try. Thank you very much.
Welp, guess I don't need to point out that the brake line kit I got from Amazon did NOT come with any sort of instructions at all 🙄...this video saved me many, MANY hours of trial and error, not to mention the copper nickel brake line that I didn't have to waste by botching my flares over and over lol! Wish all instructional videos were this "short and sweet"... I'm gonna go down a Yuengling chocolate porter (yum 😁) to celebrate a job well done, thanks for making it possible!
Flaring is another way of saying that the line/ tubing is being expanded in diameter. This change in diameter allows a flaring nut to clamp the line into a flare seat to seal it in place, which is imporant when you're talking about brake systems since they typically operate at several thousand psi and also keep you from dying due to brake failure.
You can rent the flaring kit at Auto Zone and probably other auto stores. Just pay the sale price and you get 90 days to return it. Unless you plan to do a lot lf brake lines it will save you like $35- 40 for the kit. Good video, thanks for taking the time ! I'm about to do a 15' section on a rv so I guess ill have to set the kit sideways in my vice to do this. Ive done it before but I always watch a video to refresh my memory. This is one of the best ive seen. Thanks !
I was working on upgrading to power brakes/ disc brakes on my my white 64 galaxie. It was a coincidence to see yours in the background. Thanks for the help..
Just a tip - it looks like you're using your file incorrectly. You seem to be applying pressure on both strokes, which will only wear the file out faster on hard metals such as steel or stainless steel. It's okay to do that on aluminum or copper, though. Not trying to come across as condescending, because the tutorial is otherwise great - I never thought to put it in the flaring block backwards and filing it flush with the surface to ensure the cut isn't crooked, I think that's quite a good technique. Make sure to blow out the filings before clamping and flaring though.
Gday, I’m replacing the brake lines on my plant trailer tomorrow. Looked at my flaring tool today and couldn’t remember all the crucial steps, filing square, setting the depth, as it’s been years since last used. Thank you Sir for your excellent video! I especially like the tip of the lube of the brake fluid on the various parts. I remember the thread on the yoke tool can wear and bind prematurely if not kept lubed. I owe you one of our fine Aussie beers! 😃 Cheers, Nigel 🍻👍👍
EXCELLENT instructional video. You took complex steps from the book and made it easy for us to understand. No insult intended but I had to bump up the playback speed to 1.5 so your talking sounded more like what I'm used to hearing up here in Yankee territory.
Thanks for this video. I had the tools given to me from a relative and wasn't quite sure how to do this. I don't know why this process is such a mystery to so many people, but thanks again now I can do it myself
I had to purchase an old style snap-on tool simular to yours but not the shine steel type but the dull looking one.The three shiney ones i had wouldn't hold the steel brake line from sliding thru the hole when flaring or double flaring my steel brake line no matter how tight I tighten the brace.But that old style snap-on one held the steel brake line easy from sliding when pressure was,applied.And with my 3/8 impact gun it made,the steel line flares and double flares on the steel brake line a sinch..
The last time I flared a brake line was 30 years ago.. Needless to say I am a bit rusty, but after watching this video I have the confidence to flare again.. thanks........
loved the video i just made 4 terrible double flares, im thinking i just unlocked the secret to getting it done right thanks to you, the first minute where you were looking at the brake line through the window, the lighting, setting idk something about it made me want to click away, im glad everything else was well lit thank you.
Typically I use the the old "Zip Ties 'n Bias Plies" method of torquing things down (pull on her until the threads start to roll off, then back it off a bit so the next feller doesn't know it was you) - but this vidya helped me make some minty double flares. Cheers!
Another issue we had once was the wrong degree flaring tool. We were making 5/8” mild steel lines on Eagle casing gas compressors using Rigid flaring/burnishing tool. We had some issues with the lines breaking right at the flares in some cases in a short amount of time. Ended up being some guys had 45 degree tools and the correct one was 37 degree. They both seal up but obviously one doesn’t last as well. Thanks for the Video!
That secret about the bevel is exactly what I was wondering about.. Was kind of getting to that thought already by trial and error. Great to hear it from you, Thank you!
Thank you. Very informative. I tried a few times myself and didnt know what i was doing. I dis the steps along with you, and the first time got a perfect double flare. Thank you!!
All my friends have told me how nightmarish a flaring job is, Im doing an ABS delete this coming weekend and Ive got to say im not really worried at all, Great advice.
I'm about to undergo some replacement of lines on my 2002 Ford Ranger, so this is a great refresher course. I used to make lines back when I was a mechanic, but glad to get some tips, so thank you
Good job~! I will be saving your video to refer back to when I replace a brake line and stop light sender on my old Ford F-250. Bought a double flair tool from NAPA and it ruined $100 bill but cheaper than a mechanic and I'll have it for the life of the truck~! Thanks Much.
fixing up a chevy s10 right now. kind of teaching myself as i go. ive done, drum brakes, battery, spark plugs, wires, and coils, shocks front and back, and serviced the transmission. next is new brake lines, front brakes, rotors, calipers, and fluid flush. followed by wheel bearings front and back, and rebuild the entire front suspension.
You can go to any parts store and get a 20 foot roll for $20-$30 or they should have pre-cut lengths with fittings on them about $12 or less. I know your post is 2 weeks old but If your willing to wait a few days I just got a roll of 3/16 for $13.65 delivered on ebay. P.S. If you don't know what size your line is just take a 3/16 - 1/4 - 5/16 or 3/8 wrench and put the open end around the line to see which one fits. Good luck
Thank you for this well explained helpful video. Please keep posting regardless of the moaners who obviously know better despite the fact that they too are watching an instructional video and can't post one of their own. Learned some useful pointers from this. Keep up the good work.
Well this has cleared things up after the mess I just made on 3 attempts, partly due to the instructions not being remotely clear. I will try again tomorrow if I get time.
you probably dont care but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost the account password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
My Flare tool didn't have a step in it like the one in the video, but it looks like it is supposed to be 3/16", which my 3/16" die was! It took me 5 or 6 to get this dialed in, great video!
Nice demonstration I've always wondered what those extra dies were for in my flaring tool kit. I've only used the 45 degree for soft copper for propane or fuel oil lines.
You have been doing what is commonly known as 'single flare'. However, for brake line where the fluid pressure is much higher a 'double flare' is a must.
Beeman I paid roughly 4500 for a new brake system too, mechanics need money too I guess... Reminds me if a time with Max Bixon, I could never look at socks the same way again..
I bought a flaring tool kit from a clearance bin for $1.99 because I wanted to use the yoke as a puller to get the back window wiper off of my van. I had no idea until today what the tool was actually used for, it had no label on it when I bought it and nothing on it said "flaring tool". I bought it just because I knew I could use the yoke.
One thing to mention that I experienced , the flair tool vice if tighten on copper , it can make a elevated point on the backside of the bubble and will make a leak , had to file it down to get it sealed
great video! One thing I would do differently is when filing, I would set the tool in the vice the opposite way ("concaves" up) and file from the bottom so you're not dropping metal particles into the line. And you wouldn't have to flip the bar over to do the flaring. Otherwise great video. I've done miles of brakeline but never used the fluid trick...next time i'll give it a whirl.
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Straight up and informative. My tool came with no instructions and my flares were a mess and now I know why. Some of the best 10 minutes of instruction I've seen. No cutesy comments, jokes, mugging for the camera, or aggravating music or shop noise. Thanks.
It's from 2011. I doubt anyone did those things back then....
"My flares we're a mess" haha sounds like a shampoo commercial 😂
Perfect mate thanx your way certainly gives the perfect flare No leaky joints.At least not on mine 😅.
I'm taking Heavy Mechanical Trade Foundation. I had no idea what our instructor explained during the class so I searched TH-cam and found this video. It was well explained so I understood what it is and the procedures of making a good pipe flaring. Thank you for the video this helps me a lot with my studying. The flare made in the video looks very beautiful.
Been a mechanic for 45 years and the filing/fluid lube is new to me. Simple and brilliant. Who cares if the camera is blurry. Good job!
This is what TH-cam is good for lol
That's your eyes Jerry.lol
This video is from 2011. What do people expect as far as video camera quality...
The video isn't blurry. Maybe get your eyes tested.
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just stumbled on this video and i like it. great job 10 yrs later
This video is 10 years old, but I still wanted to say thanks! my flares turned out great and there are no leaks!
Another veteran mechanic here . After years of making hit-or-miss double flares , you came to my aid and showed me the better way ! Thanks for all who benefited from your video ! Have you been out racing again this year ?
Thank you for taking the time to patiently share your skill with this. Fixing brake lines has seemed far beyond me, but seeing this is warming me up to the task. Take care.
This is a great video for the tool shown, but there is a much better tool on the market now. I used the flaring tools shown in this video for my rear brake lines and two years later I found Eastwood's on car flaring Tool #31244 and used it for my front brake lines. Eastwood's is $36 but there is absolutely no comparison at all. Don't even hesitate to buy the tool. My rear lines were weeping at installation. I had to over tighten them to get a good seating. Out of 4 flares on the front with no over tightening, I had no leaks at all. The flares were bigger and spot on. No oval or bent shapes every time even the first time.Here are key tips I found to get the job done right:1. Straighten the tube near the last 2 inches of each end as much as possible. You want your cut and flare form tools to meet the ends squarely. I used a metal straight edge to check straightness.2. Cut the tube as squarely as possible. A standard tubing cutter worked. Just pay attention that you are not pulling it to the side as you go.3. Chamfer the tube inner diameter evenly. I used a chamfer bit in a drill since I had the bit. A drill bit should work, but use it in a drill to help create even chamfering.4. Chamfer the outer diameter of the tube. I had to use a file by hand just as in this video. Try to make it as evenly as possible. Eastwood has a tool for the inner and outer chamfer but I didn't buy it.5. Remove old brake lines. Try to keep them in their original shape without twisting them up. I made a flare on one end of my replacement tube following Eastwood's tool instructions exactly and slide a new fitting on that end. If you don't know what fittings to use, I went on the big chain auto parts store web site. Look up your replacement master cylinder and check for the port fittings. It tells you what fitting will work. The primary port on any two port master cylinder is the port closest to the mounting surface according to Google. Do the same for the "rubber" brake lines to find those fittings. I bent my new brake lines by hand and attached them to the old brake lines so I could follow the bends accurately. Attach them together using tape, fat rubber bands, old shoe laces, etc. Attach them at one end, bend following the old tube, attach a little more and repeat. I used a tubing bending tool a few times. It's easier to bend them while sitting comfortably in the house rather than when under the car. When the new brake line is bent against the old it will scratch off the protective rust coating unless you wrap it with Saran Wrap or the like. One goal here is so that the ends fit straight into the fitting they will screw into. You want them straight so that the flare seats squarely.6. I Installed stainless steel 3/16" brake line gravel guard over the tubes. These are like a long spring. Walmart was the cheapest. Flare the other end. If you forget to put the fitting on before flaring, you can cut the flare off very, very close to the fitting. Notice that the cutting tools have a notch in one of the rollers. The flare sits in the notch so you can cut it off very closely.7. Apply just a fine amount of oil to the fitting threads and also the back side of the flare where the fitting will press the flare. You don't want any oil contaminating the seating side of the flare. You will be bleeding the lines, but don't contaminate anyway. It's not a good practice. This allows much more of the fitting torque to be applied toward seating the flare rather than overcoming friction.8. When installing the new tube, make sure the tube allows the fittings to go in straight. You know it is straight if you can screw the fitting in with your FINGERS ONLY while you wiggle the tube. Finally, continuously wiggle and seat the flares using a wrench. No over tightening needed. No leaks. No worrying about brake failure.Please thumbs up if this helps.
I’ve gone to three or four junkyards to find a short 3/16 steel brake line from the master cylinder to the left front brake line! Somebody always messes up the flare nuts previously! I messed up my original flare Nut ! I will now re-flare the regional brake line with a flare nut kit And install a new Nut using a new flare nut wrench! Knowledge is the greatest gift a man can bestow on another! Thank you very much!
The single MOST important step that isn't heavily pointed out is the bevel you need to file on the outside before you attempt to flare. If you don't bevel it enough, the adapter will try lop over to the side. Also, use EXTRA line to practice on FIRST before you try to wok on the good line you want to fix/make. I tried about 5 times, with the adapter lopping to one side ruining the flare before I realized I wasn't putting a good enough bevel. When I did, it flared right.
Good to know. My first two attempts both lopped so I will try this next.
You Sir deserve a beer! thank you for providing me with the knowledge of creating my own flare for my brake line. Thank You
Peshmerga مثي
Powerst power steri rec of Nissan x-trail old
Peshmerga مثير الحرب
I concur, and now he should have a twelve pack.
(If all that liked actually gave him a can/bottle of beer.) I know I will,
just as soon as he swings on over.
Agreed! I was just about to give up on making my own and plopping down $120 for a complete set of premade lines for my Jeep, when I only need to make 3pcs. Now I know what I was doing wrong on my test flare. 👍
I didn't have access to a deburring tool. and your showing how to deburr the line with a knife. made it so I could complete the job. without going and getting a deburring tool thanks.
I do want to point out how helpful this vid is overall. I was not complaining.. just adding a bit of additional helpful info for others who might not realize how important a good bevel is.
Thank you for this video. The first Time I ever needed to flare brake lines. I made seven unsuccessful attempts. The line kept crashing over to one side. The trick I needed to learn was to lubricate the adapter. My first attempt after doing so was successful!!!!
Thank you.
Great tip on not overtightening the flare tool. I would think that mounting the flare bar vertically with the side to be flared facing down at an angle for the filing would allow more of the filings to fall out of the tube. Using a Q-tip on the inside to remove any wayward bits. A vertical mount would be good for working with longer lines. Thank you for the great video. I learned something useful here.
thanks for the video... a tip that will certainly be handy... if you do not have a proper chamfering tool... the point of a sharp drill bit that is about twice the diameter of the inside diameter of the hole can be turned by hand as a chamfering tool .. much safer than a knife... and produce much better results much easier; that said... i suspect that most professionals would suggest only a very slight chamfer is appropriate, maybe .015", as any chamfer, as with any protruding burs, will potentially reduce the effectiveness of the seal.
The details in your instructions really make a difference to the end result, thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me a boat load of cash replacing my rear brake lines!
I’ve been working on cars non professionally for close to 40 years, I have done a double flare, needed one done a year ago for a transmission line, was working with a guy that made it look like rocket science combined with a drunk sailor, ended up with a pile of scrap but he gotter dun! Any time I’ve needed a double flare, I cheated and bought a pre made one at auto zoned and used a compression fitting (disregarding all warnings that they are not to be used with brake lines despite they are on the same display rack as the proper fittings). However, with your excellent video demonstrating exactly how easy this is to do, I am going on eBay and ordering the double flare tool like yours! Thank you
No freakin way. I'm literally watching this to double check that I'm using this tool correctly to repair a transmission line on my 64 galaxie. What are the odds? Thanks for the video.
Much appreciated! --- It's the little details that are usually not mentioned in instructions. I appreciate you mentioning the small details. BTW, I see other comments about debris in the lines after deburring; and although it's worth noting, I think folks comfortable doing this repair know to clean the lines, so NP. FWIW, viewers that have worked on cars, taken a high school auto-shop class, or even a metal-shop class, etc. should know (by default), that you Always clean out (any) lines when making major repairs / replacement like this whether Brake, Fuel or any other line else they should not be performing this operation. The main point of the video was about the "double-flare" and was explained well. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! It had been 10 years since I did a brake line, and this was a great refresher for my power steering line for my '78 GMC motorhome.
Great instructional video on double flaring. Used this video to help me do the rear brake lines on my son's 99 Civic about a year ago, and now, unfortunately, I'm back for a refresher before doing the fronts. Thanks!
OMG! I have been trying to do this for 30 yrs. Nobody I have ever know has been able to do this and its so easy!!! I got phone calls to make.
It's good to have the opening of the tube facing downward when filing flat and beveling. That way, all the chips don't go down into the tube. Also, blowing out the dust from the opposite with compressed air is good. Do all of this before applying any fluid as a lubricant which would trap all the metal dust inside the tube.
nice tip!TY!
Great Video! I learn a couple things from this and am very glad I did. My last Tech School class was in 1984 and this video helped me to refresh my memory. Like he said, "Proper preparation is Key!" Thank you!
I want to say thanks! my flares turned out great and there are no leaks! I am 67 and never was able to watch a Double Flare being done. Before youtubeI learned by watching friends but i think I still am just did it in my recliner .
So now the video is 12 years old. I wanted to replace the lines in my truck with stainless but they just don’t have them. I was willing to spend the $265 too. Now, armed with a roll of brake line, flare tool and your information I am done…job came out perfectly and was under $50.00
Thanks for this video!
Awesome video! Thanks for pointing out about how critical the prep is!
I had trouble a couple of years ago trying to do this. I kept getting the flare off center. The extra steps you provided had me get a nice flare on the first try. Thank you very much.
Welp, guess I don't need to point out that the brake line kit I got from Amazon did NOT come with any sort of instructions at all 🙄...this video saved me many, MANY hours of trial and error, not to mention the copper nickel brake line that I didn't have to waste by botching my flares over and over lol! Wish all instructional videos were this "short and sweet"... I'm gonna go down a Yuengling chocolate porter (yum 😁) to celebrate a job well done, thanks for making it possible!
Flaring is another way of saying that the line/ tubing is being expanded in diameter. This change in diameter allows a flaring nut to clamp the line into a flare seat to seal it in place, which is imporant when you're talking about brake systems since they typically operate at several thousand psi and also keep you from dying due to brake failure.
You can rent the flaring kit at Auto Zone and probably other auto stores. Just pay the sale price and you get 90 days to return it. Unless you plan to do a lot lf brake lines it will save you like $35- 40 for the kit. Good video, thanks for taking the time ! I'm about to do a 15' section on a rv so I guess ill have to set the kit sideways in my vice to do this. Ive done it before but I always watch a video to refresh my memory. This is one of the best ive seen. Thanks !
I was working on upgrading to power brakes/ disc brakes on my my white 64 galaxie. It was a coincidence to see yours in the background. Thanks for the help..
I have watched many videos on this and then attempted to do it but I failed miserably. You have the very best video for this. Thank you!!!
Everytime I'm doing brake lines I come to this video best one on YT
Just a tip - it looks like you're using your file incorrectly. You seem to be applying pressure on both strokes, which will only wear the file out faster on hard metals such as steel or stainless steel. It's okay to do that on aluminum or copper, though. Not trying to come across as condescending, because the tutorial is otherwise great - I never thought to put it in the flaring block backwards and filing it flush with the surface to ensure the cut isn't crooked, I think that's quite a good technique. Make sure to blow out the filings before clamping and flaring though.
I wish I would have watched your video first rather than the countless others that do not explain it as well as you did. Extremely thorough. Thanks!
Gday,
I’m replacing the brake lines on my plant trailer tomorrow. Looked at my flaring tool today and couldn’t remember all the crucial steps, filing square, setting the depth, as it’s been years since last used.
Thank you Sir for your excellent video! I especially like the tip of the lube of the brake fluid on the various parts. I remember the thread on the yoke tool can wear and bind prematurely if not kept lubed.
I owe you one of our fine Aussie beers! 😃
Cheers, Nigel 🍻👍👍
EXCELLENT instructional video. You took complex steps from the book and made it easy for us to understand. No insult intended but I had to bump up the playback speed to 1.5 so your talking sounded more like what I'm used to hearing up here in Yankee territory.
Thanks for this video. I had the tools given to me from a relative and wasn't quite sure how to do this. I don't know why this process is such a mystery to so many people, but thanks again now I can do it myself
This is the best double flare video. Have to go to it to refresh my mind before making up some lines. Thanks
I had to purchase an old style snap-on tool simular to yours but not the shine steel type but the dull looking one.The three shiney ones i had wouldn't hold the steel brake line from sliding thru the hole when flaring or double flaring my steel brake line no matter how tight I tighten the brace.But that old style snap-on one held the steel brake line easy from sliding when pressure was,applied.And with my 3/8 impact gun it made,the steel line flares and double flares on the steel brake line a sinch..
The last time I flared a brake line was 30 years ago.. Needless to say I am a bit rusty, but after watching this video I have the confidence to flare again.. thanks........
loved the video i just made 4 terrible double flares, im thinking i just unlocked the secret to getting it done right thanks to you, the first minute where you were looking at the brake line through the window, the lighting, setting idk something about it made me want to click away, im glad everything else was well lit thank you.
Typically I use the the old "Zip Ties 'n Bias Plies" method of torquing things down (pull on her until the threads start to roll off, then back it off a bit so the next feller doesn't know it was you) - but this vidya helped me make some minty double flares. Cheers!
end of 2023 and this is still a great and helpful vid ! Kudos, sir
Another issue we had once was the wrong degree flaring tool. We were making 5/8” mild steel lines on Eagle casing gas compressors using Rigid flaring/burnishing tool. We had some issues with the lines breaking right at the flares in some cases in a short amount of time. Ended up being some guys had 45 degree tools and the correct one was 37 degree. They both seal up but obviously one doesn’t last as well.
Thanks for the Video!
That secret about the bevel is exactly what I was wondering about..
Was kind of getting to that thought already by trial and error.
Great to hear it from you,
Thank you!
Thanks to you I learned today how to use this amazing tool. 1 millions of thanks!!!
Great refresher. 100% agree prep finish work and not rushing is the key to great flares. Bought a small filing set for this task.
Thank you. Very informative. I tried a few times myself and didnt know what i was doing. I dis the steps along with you, and the first time got a perfect double flare. Thank you!!
I about went into this blindly, glad i didnt , thanks for the upload and knowledge.
Count me among the majority who give you a thumbs up. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome Vid! Tried 3x to flare a gas line, with your help, 4th time the charm! You're correct PREP is KEY! Thank you!
All my friends have told me how nightmarish a flaring job is, Im doing an ABS delete this coming weekend and Ive got to say im not really worried at all, Great advice.
Thanks so much. I don't do this often and forget how. Just what I needed.
Well done ol bean. Nice to have this out there for the record. 👍
I'm about to undergo some replacement of lines on my 2002 Ford Ranger, so this is a great refresher course. I used to make lines back when I was a mechanic, but glad to get some tips, so thank you
Good job~! I will be saving your video to refer back to when I replace a brake line and stop light sender on my old Ford F-250. Bought a double flair tool from NAPA and it ruined $100 bill but cheaper than a mechanic and I'll have it for the life of the truck~! Thanks Much.
Looks like a 1964 Galaxie setting outside of the shop, I have one myself! Thanks for the video!
That car is the first thing I noticed. It is for sure a 64, the car I lost my virginity in the back seat of - my Dad's 500 XL. Great Car!
Your video is easier to understand than other videos that I have seen. Awesome job!
Awesome job, first time I've given any thought to doing this instead of buying pre-made. Very thorough.
fixing up a chevy s10 right now. kind of teaching myself as i go. ive done, drum brakes, battery, spark plugs, wires, and coils, shocks front and back, and serviced the transmission. next is new brake lines, front brakes, rotors, calipers, and fluid flush. followed by wheel bearings front and back, and rebuild the entire front suspension.
Thanks for educating guys like me who have no idea how to make a double flared.
Thank you. Replacing the brake lines on a 70's muscle car, bought the double flaring tool, this video was very helpful.
You can go to any parts store and get a 20 foot roll for $20-$30 or they should have pre-cut lengths with fittings on them about $12 or less. I know your post is 2 weeks old but If your willing to wait a few days I just got a roll of 3/16 for $13.65 delivered on ebay. P.S. If you don't know what size your line is just take a 3/16 - 1/4 - 5/16 or 3/8 wrench and put the open end around the line to see which one fits. Good luck
Thank you for this well explained helpful video. Please keep posting regardless of the moaners who obviously know better despite the fact that they too are watching an instructional video and can't post one of their own. Learned some useful pointers from this. Keep up the good work.
Well this has cleared things up after the mess I just made on 3 attempts, partly due to the instructions not being remotely clear. I will try again tomorrow if I get time.
Very well done. I'm very hawkish about surface prep, too. The idea is a tight fit, and surface prep is essential for that.
Excellent video sir!!! This was very easy to follow and even more better that there was no music added to the video.
This is an excellent video it was very helpful thank you!
you probably dont care but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost the account password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Joel Gunner instablaster ;)
Hornet King on a brake line tool walk though???
Also sorry to hear about ginger 😔
Very nice, did not know how to do a double flare at all, I feel pretty confident about it now thanks to this.
Finally a video that focuses on the tools and not the car
made me remember how, I liked how in depth you explained each step..many people forget to file...good video
Excellent video great job! Thank you. P.S. I did notice you forgot to install the other fitting for the opposite side. ;)
I have screwed this up more than I care to admit. Now I know how to do it properly. Great video!
Very well done! A true professional! Thank you and great video...
I respect your attention to detail! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm going to give it a try!
Good job. Just did a flare. Came out prefect!
Thank you for the video and the tips on flaring break lines. I'm heading to the shop now to get started. Great work man, keep it up!!
Just about to replace all the lines on an old jeep. Good instruction...easy to follow.
Thanks man.
Used your tips.. busted out a great flare 1st try with a $16 evercraft kit.
Thanks bud
Great video! Now I just need to do this for the first time, underneath the car, upside-down... without a vise.......
My Flare tool didn't have a step in it like the one in the video, but it looks like it is supposed to be 3/16", which my 3/16" die was! It took me 5 or 6 to get this dialed in, great video!
With little instructions in my flare kit this video was very helpful thanks.
Nice demonstration I've always wondered what those extra dies were for in my flaring tool kit. I've only used the 45 degree for soft copper for propane or fuel oil lines.
You have been doing what is commonly known as 'single flare'. However, for brake line where the fluid pressure is much higher a 'double flare' is a must.
Nice simple to the point video that explained exactly what I needed to know...THANK YOU, nice job! Wish me luck!
this helped me study for my airframe and powerplant certificates thank you!
Well documented (well explained and clear view) video. Thanks for sharing .
very smart of you to file your tool as well while making tube flat-filed
I'm new to working on cars, and this was great information to have. Thank you.
Great vid LOVE that 64 Galaxie in background!!
I've just bought one of these kits. It's going to save me a small fortune. It might even make me some $$$
Thanks for this video. It helped me flare my lines right the first time.
Thanks for the video! Good refreshment. Job done. It cost mi just $10 + 1 hour work. Mercedes dealer ask for just $1500 lol.
thats why they are called stealerships
Beeman I paid roughly 4500 for a new brake system too, mechanics need money too I guess... Reminds me if a time with Max Bixon, I could never look at socks the same way again..
@@jacobschmoyer7630 You're right I'd rather stay two hours at work to pay the mechanic for one hour job. Unfortunately, I don't earn $ 750 / Hr
Excellent tutorial with no fluff!
I bought a flaring tool kit from a clearance bin for $1.99 because I wanted to use the yoke as a puller to get the back window wiper off of my van. I had no idea until today what the tool was actually used for, it had no label on it when I bought it and nothing on it said "flaring tool". I bought it just because I knew I could use the yoke.
One thing to mention that I experienced , the flair tool vice if tighten on copper , it can make a elevated point on the backside of the bubble and will make a leak , had to file it down to get it sealed
great video! One thing I would do differently is when filing, I would set the tool in the vice the opposite way ("concaves" up) and file from the bottom so you're not dropping metal particles into the line. And you wouldn't have to flip the bar over to do the flaring. Otherwise great video. I've done miles of brakeline but never used the fluid trick...next time i'll give it a whirl.
Good video. I'm getting sick of buying pre-cut length of brake line, now I know how to do it!