Never seen before Brakeline Flaring Hack! How to repair leaking fitting.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Today i had a brakeline leaking that i just made. This old trick is really handy. You will need a cordless drill and some valve grinding compound for this trick. Hope u like the video. Thanks for watching.
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Been running a garage for 27 years and have never had this issue. Getting a better tool would certainly be a start
Idiot has overtightened the tool, there is a reason the come with wing nuts for hand tightening.
I use Eastwood's vise mount flaring tool and never have anything that looks like this.
all tools are chinese junk even new parts are junk
@@jimthompson3030
His tool clearly says "MADE IN USA".
You're not just an ignorant bigot, you're a blind ignorant bigot.
@@jimthompson3030
His tool clearly shows "MADE IN USA".
You're not only presumptuous and illogical, but also blind.
Never seen before,,,, dont ever want to see it again.
xddd
So many on here have commented that you don't know what you're doing and how good they are instead of saying- good job figuring out how to fix the problem you have using what you have INSTEAD of buying another tool. I have a brand new tool with the fancy case and it does this on steel tubing also. I just use a small file. Glad you found a good solution, I'll have to try it.
Definitely
Unbelievable 😮
A small file? Interesting. I am currently fixing my Pontiac g3 2010 which I bought last year and the old lines were really rusted so i change some portions. The ones I did are leaking draining brake fluid so I will try the file.
Did you ever thing so many people send things like that because its true. If he and you did not over tighten the flaring bar, you would not have the grooves. Some light sandpaper, grinding compund, whatever you use. Its not needed. If you put grooves in the line just leave them. They will support the line inside to nut. The tighter the fit the best.
Yes I am a Master technician, 50+ years
Not necessary. The ridge on the actual flared area will go away when you tighten the nut down. The nut and inverted flare inside the fitting will finish forming the line flare to the proper shape. Done
I was thinking the same thing
I've done a lot of flaring in my years as a mechanic and I've never needed anything like this, first he's introducing a foreign substance and he's adding unnecessary wear to the flare and the nut and very possibly damaging the threads on the nut. This is a very bad thing to do, I for one will never recommend anything like this.
@@bigredbeard65
I'm with you all the way.
I learned to not go so heavy when forming the second part of the flare which leaves the flare slightly compressable. This allows the female fitting & the flare nut to perform the final shaping. Adding a very tiny amount of rubber grease to THE THREAD ONLY, then nipping the nut up, backing it off & nipping it up a few times gives a perfect seal. That small amount of rubber grease tends to seal moisture our of the thread preventing rust & enabling it to be easily undone in future if necessary.
There's no way I'd ever introduce valve grinding paste to the chuck of my drill & I'd eat valve grinding paste before I'd allow it anywhere near any brake hydraulic component. BIG NO NO!
Agreed,the mini-ridges on the tubing,under the fitting and below the flare,have nothing to do with seating of the flare upon the seat.Only a poorly shaped flare or a damaged seat will allow leakage.I’ve done tons of these,and you can go overboard on the depth of the flare.Basically,the shape of the flare must match the contour of the seat.It’s much like over torquing a bolt,more is not always better,it takes some skills and experience doing this.
@@johnbrooks9523
Amateur here. What is rubber grease? Silicone?
The face of the flare is what seals against the fitting it's threaded into.
This was my thought as well. The seal is on the inside of the flare. I'm not sure if a bump on the outside would cause a leak. Maybe due to unequal pressure? A common leak fix is to simply loosen and retighten 2 or 3 times to help seat the inside of the flare.
Yeah, this guy is an idiot. He also put the lapping compound into the line, which contaminated the system.
this guy doesnt know what he talking about, what a waste of time.
Thnx for sharing Sir!! It is always Nice to see some new cool tricks. I am a 31 yrs Chrysler Tech and still working . That Imperfection area what you have shown not really can cause any issue because when you start to tighten the nut, the pressure of the nut will force the opening of the flare to seat against the other side of the line fitting automatically or you may call it 'self compressed sealing'. Unless the flare was made way out of shape. Otherwise not too worry. But it is nice to see something new that I have never seen to smooth out the flare and the line with its nut. Thanks again sir!
My advice would be throw the flaring tool away and buy a new one that doesnt leave marks on the pipe.
Obviously or and also quit using the high copper content soft line
Use the old one he showed that has a hand tighten wing nut. Put a nut on that old one instead of the wing nut and crank it down would probably damage the line too.
Yes I agree. That flaring tool is a toy. Buy a professional flaring tool like I did in the early eighties and it’s still going strong.
Yes, I have one from the ‘90s made by either Lisle or OTC. It’s amazing, has the hand-tighten wing nuts and a nice little case for everything.
What tool holds the line tight enough to not slip, but doesn't leave marks on the copper-nickel line?
Never seen that done before ,but every little trick might help sometime ,thanks
What this video tells me is that he doesn't understand how a flared joint works. The tubing material is softer than the nut, so will simply deform and flatten into the required shape when the nut is tightened, forming the seal. Why anyone would want to add unnecessary steps to the process, and risk introducing grinding paste into a braking system, I don't know.
This makes me feel better since you said it’s not flare. I was trippin out and remaking the flares just to find out that they still leaked 😆 ima try this out and I hopefully it fixes the leaks, thanks for sharing!
Most flares leak because you overtightened the flare while making it and there's nothing left to squeeze for the final seating of the two surfaces. I have also found that after cutting the line to length you should clean the inside edge of the tube with a file, the pointed trimmer reem on the cutter, or simply use a wire wheel. Any small burr left on the inside of the tube will give you an uneven flare seat.
Awesome, I did the lines on my antique truck and couldn't find out why it was leaking, now I see the problem I have!! THANK you sir!!!
Not sure u do if u think this is going to make ur line seal better...js
Thank you so much just spent the entire weekend without the result I needed this might’ve solved my problem
That is awesome!! Love that hack!
Awesome tip... Four times today, I got nothing but leaks. Tried this without compound and it seems to have worked just fine fifth time round.
I needed to make an iso flair, i decided to buy the good vice mount flair tool. I think it is an eastwood. Worked perfectly. Pretty expensive but it was worth it just for one vehicle making all new lines vs taking it to a shop or trying to order premade oem lines.
Good tip on seating flare fitting s man ,,,,I can definitely use that 👍 👍 👍 👍
I have always just taken a small needle file to hand file the high spots off as needed. Less mess and cleanup. The idea is correct though. The high spots make the seating forces uneven. Highlighting the issue helps those that do not understand the issue to be aware of the issue and how to correct it.
My thought too. That little bump will cause uneven compression of the flare. Shouldn’t have to use the fitting to complete the tubing press.
great tip, I have a very good flaring tool but I have got leakers before, I think it would be a good practice on every job, that one leak out of a thousand will cost a lot in time and headaches
Great Idea! Thank you.
Awesome thank you!!! It worked for me perfectly!!! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 (we work with what we got right 🤓)
Very helpful always struggled with that tool
Neat tip, so simple like following your projects
Great tip. Thanks for sharing. Be safe and stay well.
Good tip.
Great tip, I've had that problem before and end up taking the lines to a professional shop to be made. Wish I have checked your video then. Thank you so much
Awesome tip! I just spit on it!
that's what she said
I have always been a believer in lapping two parts together to make them fit better.
awesome idea. funny i came across this video as i am just messing around with one of the left over brake line tubing from a job i did a while ago. thanks for the great idea. i hate that serrated line on this tools. is nice to know how to fix it
Perfect, now I just need to remember this next time I'm making brake line, thank you
thanks mate for the awesome tip !!!
This is an Awesome video for people with ODT or ADT or what ever issues they have.
There's a better tool that looks like a screwdriver, top half comes off and put pipe inside then bolt it together and the flair making piece is treaded so screw it on with a spanner and flair is done. For double flair flip the piece 180' and screw that on. Remove piece and open the tool to remove pipe. Thing is you can repair pipes on the car if necessary.
Definitely a cool trick. tHanks for the video
Thanks for the tip brother man. 👍🏼
Nice tip
Will be applying this wizardry tomorrow.. thanks for sharing..
Well done 👍
Folks, it's obviously not a problem all of the time but what a fine solution.
Also: Maybe some other brands of flare tools don't mark it up so bad but what if you didn't have one of those. The poster has two tools there; it looks like he might have been trying different ones.
Very Cool Hack ! 👍Thanks For The Shout Out 📣Arco!
Good tip if you make a new line and it leaks there little lapping paste to get a good mating surface
Using drywall sanding mesh strips to hold the tube in the clamping tool works best; grinding compound is usually lubed or wet and can slip and with these strips the tube will NEVER slip.
I had this problem the first time I used Ni copper (this is the only line I now use) this ridge don't really hurt anything as people say because it will flatten out when tightened (is just looks like crap) What I did was take a small file to the sharp edges of the jaws and put "a very small" (notice I said very SMALL) tapered edge on them kind of like a conn rod or a main bearing bores have at it's parting line of the caps, still works great without any problem, Living Michigan I only use Ni copper but I'm sure it will still be ok on regular steel lines.
Amazon has a a sweet hydraulic flaring tool with all the fixins.
It's way cheaper than a funeral.
lol yup 👍 we actually just got one from Amazon. Thanks
dig it man
You can clean it up with a small flat file it don't make a mess.
Good idea bud!
A clever idea!! Havent had that problem making lines, but a great fix for those lines that are a lil tweaked and the nut is sticky. Almost nothing more annoying than having to wrench that guy in an eighth turn at a time!!!
Man what a great hack brother! I always pick up something from your videos. Keep up the good work !
Cool trick Arco!
Comments point out pros and cons, good information is good information.
One Pro I see with this general idea is smoothing out lines that are being reinstalled. Often the tubing itself is marred or dirty, which prevents the nut fitting from sliding or turning freely when you go to start threading it in. I think if you are careful, it could be useful at certain times. Maybe using some scotch-brite scuff pad in the drill chuck to smoothen the tubing might even work as well. Its SO frustrating fighting the fitting in a tight space when you need to slide it or rotate it using your pinkie nail and lower thumb knuckle, and it catches on a tiny tiny imperfection and jams. Then of course, then line pops out that has had time to collect some residual fluid, and it instantly drains into your eye, along with a nice piece of greasy aluminum chip. Instinctively you flinch or pull away, and now your head has a rusty gash in it and your elbow knocks over the bottle of steering fluid that quickly runs straight under your impact gun. Definitely a source of swearing.
Stay gold.
🤣😆👍
Excellent video Thank you, Also bevel the line first to help with the first flare.
Nice touch!
If your flare met the nut squarely it wouldn't leak. The flare seals the line. If the fluid is leaking it is the flare that isn't working not the markings on the line behind the flare. When you held the nut to the flare at the beginning of the video there was a space between the nut and half of the flare. You may have an issue with the flaring tool or the line had a slight bend in it preventing the nut from seating flush against the back of the seal. I think your valve grinding compound and drill thing seated the nut squarely against the flare completing a good seal.
Thanks for commenting exactly what was said and shown in the video, without your comment I would not have been sure how much I actually did waste my time watching this video!!!
@@jcanfixall1585”how much you actually did waste your time watching this video”so how much time did you actually did waste as opposed to actually not wasting to much of your time that you didn’t actually waste before you actually left a comment for the guy that reassured you that you actually didn’t waste much time at all rhetorically speaking?
@@BenjaminMarquez-q2g exactly!!!
Neat idea with the lapping compound, just be careful to keep it out of the inside of the line 🤦🏼♂️ Your damn sure going to have a perfect seat on the backside of the flare. Not everyone has a high end flaring tool and your hack if done carefully imo is a great workaround in a pinch!
Great tip, thanks.
Maybe try using compound in the jaws of the flare tool. Steel lines are even worse to double flare.
Unaware of what is generally used 'across the pond' I use a brand called 'Kunifer' which has a % of copper in it. It has many advantages not the least is corrosion resistant, easier to bend than steel, easier to create the flare(s). More maleble all round, as to the marking of the pipe when in the style of clamp shown in the video it doesn't mark as much as steel although I do apply a small amount of grease to the pipe before clamping and flaring. I've made hundreds of brake pipes with this particular pipe, (& steel before I discovered Kunifer)
On your brake flaring tool take one of the bolts out on each end put the 1 side with no bolt in thevice close to where your brake line is and use device to hold the tool it won't leave a mark because it won't spread open That's what I have done
Dang, I think I'd be spending my time more productively going out looking for a decent flaring tool🤣
Great idea
Been making brake lines for 37 years and have never needed to do this ???????
I got away from the old style flaring tool,this being one reason. But when i install line i snug and loosen nut several times, and it seats fitting. A dab of anti-sieze on tube as well.
Thanks for the tip.
like it
I don't know about this application but, what I've done is used lapping compound for was to mate rough threads male and female threads. When there are micro burrs or what ever
Nice trick Arco, thanks brother 😀😀
U GOT IT... NICE AND EASY EXPLAINED...
Great tip!
Get a tool made in germany. No "tricks" no nothin just perfection.
Awesome hack brother. Thanks for sharing. Keep the videos coming. Hope you have an incredible night. Love you guys
Great tip !!!
Those flare tool lines are not a problem. The double flare seals on the inside of the cone, not the outside. All this does is to risk getting a very abrasive compound inside your hydraulic system. This is totally unnecessary.
Valve lapping compound.✌️
Great job man
I bought a hydraulic flaring tool. Makes em nice and pretty.
it's called Lapping I believe..
Sorry to inform you.......That step is not necessary. The mating surface is the flare and the flare seat in the brake cyl, etc. Once you tighten the nut it seals at the seat.... This is just a waste of time.
Great advice!
Great video! As someone who just started working on my first car (Pontiac g3 2010) I am currently dealing with this issue. Changed a portion of the old brake lines but they are now leaking at the fittings and joint. Glad there is a solution. Can you tell me any method that doesn't involve a drill? I unfortunately don't have any power tools and am still new to fixing cars and driving.
U can literally use your hands bro. Just spin it with that compound on there until it’s nice and shiny 👍
Thank you for sharing this hack!
They make hydraulic flaring tools that use a little hydraulic cylinder you pump by hand. I haven't used that style for 15 years because of that
Crappy camera work yes, but that high def quality makes up for it
Brass wire wheel on the bench grinder works pretty sweet for that too.
I've used a punch and the vice to fit them together better. We all have a trick or two to do things.
great little hack cheers buddy
Btw good idea. But just don't overtighten the flare bar and you will not have the deep grooves
That’s what she said!!!😁
I've been lucky I guess as I've never had a flare leak. I've messed up many and dropped the die many times also. Cool idea though. I use a drill to clean up caliper slide pins but never thought about grinding compound 👍.
Nice. Hope I never have to use this trick, but tools are garbage off the shelf lately and will probably need to when upgrading my factory proportioning valve to an adjustable one.
Camera work was surprisingly good. Don’t be too hard on yourself and thanks for the video!
Great repair! But every time you use that tool you need to fix the flare ? Fix the tool,or replace it !
Actually just replaced it with a couple new tools 👍
" NICE ".....!
👍😉
Brilliant... Huzzah!!
I like to take a brake line, solder one end and cut the other end off, and use it with an air compressor. It's the best airgun ever.
It’s not the flare’s fault. The flare identifies as good! It’s the tool operators fault 😅
That’s a good one! 👍😝👍
@@Kevscancave 😂😂😂 just giving the Bday boy a hard time haha
Nice trick Arco, thanx for sharing God Bless
That is old-school kind of stuff to do that with. The proper tools to make a consistently good single or double flared or bubble flared brake lines cost a good bit of money, but the results are fabulous.. If you are just doing it for yourself Good luck with junkie tools.
The Eastwood tool will do stainless perfect , I have five flaring tool that is the only one. I actually am going to sell mine , retiring from building cars..
Good one man! I also use the Ni-Cop tube but have been lucky so far.
The inside of the flare seals against a rubber o-ring (sometimes even Teflon in propane tubing). The best thing to do is avoid creating the ridge in the first place.
Isn't the seal at the other side of the flare? Contact w the nut doesn't provide a seal.
Correct!
Compression from the nut of the flair both sides is the seal!!!
no lie man, I subscribed because of your camera work and droppin the flare die. fuckin love the style homie. like me when im tryna explain shit. also what i ended up doing when I was flaring was I wrapped the line in a 2 layers of a sitckynote paper. seemed to do the trick too.
I would not contaminated the line or the fittings, use a fine small file. I have a similar tool the file is quick, no messy compound.