Triple Head 180 Degree Tubing Bender: www.eastwood.com/triple-head-180-degree-tubing-bender-3-16-3-8-in.html?TH-cam&+brakes+tubing+bender Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool: www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?TH-cam&+brakes+flaring+tool
Also if you want to straighten the line drill a hole through the width of a 2x4 same size as the tubing and pull it through the hole off the roll you will get a perfectly staight line.
That is one slick vice-mounted flare tool. I also like the Eastwood on-car flare tool - that one needs to be in every mechanics toolbox. Wish I had those when I was rebuilding the body and rear brake lines on my Mk1 VW Jetta. I'll know better for next time!
Soft lines often have banjo fittings on one end and a standard hard line fitting on the other (front brakes on the c10 are like this). If you want to run double flare line then you would have to swap the calipers to something that accepts this style, or run a length of line from the banjo fitting to a union and then swap it to double flare fittings from there.
I’m on a budget, but would like to upgrade my brakes. Would it be cost effective to go with steel braided hoses? I’d save so much by Not buying all the tools and equipment to make hard lines. What do you think?
There's lots of options when buying brake tools - these are just our preferred method. The least expensive option will be getting a roll with fittings and the tools needed to bend/flare it. A 25 foot roll with fittings is 43.00 plus needing a tool to bend and flare. www.eastwood.com/steel-line-tubing-kits-25-feet-with-assorted-fittings.html Braided lines are closer to $1/Foot and you'd need to find spools of it plus specialized fittings and tools for that.
Adam was marking the tubing where the bend should start and end then lining it up in the tubing bender with that info. So he'd have a black mark that was where the bend needed to be. Once you make one bend you'll see how it all lines up.
It's brakeline armor - some people run it while other's don't. Adam wanted a cleaner look so opted for none. www.eastwood.com/3-16-stainless-steel-brakeline-armor-3ft.html
Triple Head 180 Degree Tubing Bender: www.eastwood.com/triple-head-180-degree-tubing-bender-3-16-3-8-in.html?TH-cam&+brakes+tubing+bender
Professional Brake Line and Tubing Flaring Tool: www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?TH-cam&+brakes+flaring+tool
Also if you want to straighten the line drill a hole through the width of a 2x4 same size as the tubing and pull it through the hole off the roll you will get a perfectly staight line.
Trentonjohnson thanks for the tip.
That is one slick vice-mounted flare tool. I also like the Eastwood on-car flare tool - that one needs to be in every mechanics toolbox. Wish I had those when I was rebuilding the body and rear brake lines on my Mk1 VW Jetta. I'll know better for next time!
Thanks bros!! Too much help in this video🔥
3:30 Finally shows how to bend.
We do put the chapter guides in most of our videos so you can get to the information you're looking for quickly.
Great video, only problem is you forgot the step where you flare the line and realize you forgot the fitting first 🤣😂
We made sure to do that off camera 2-3 times for good measure.
Lmao did this last time I did my brakes 😂
Just literally done that tonight !
The calipers on the axle i put in my f100 had banjo bolts originally, can i still use that style fitting instead?
Soft lines often have banjo fittings on one end and a standard hard line fitting on the other (front brakes on the c10 are like this). If you want to run double flare line then you would have to swap the calipers to something that accepts this style, or run a length of line from the banjo fitting to a union and then swap it to double flare fittings from there.
I’m on a budget, but would like to upgrade my brakes. Would it be cost effective to go with steel braided hoses? I’d save so much by Not buying all the tools and equipment to make hard lines. What do you think?
There's lots of options when buying brake tools - these are just our preferred method. The least expensive option will be getting a roll with fittings and the tools needed to bend/flare it.
A 25 foot roll with fittings is 43.00 plus needing a tool to bend and flare.
www.eastwood.com/steel-line-tubing-kits-25-feet-with-assorted-fittings.html
Braided lines are closer to $1/Foot and you'd need to find spools of it plus specialized fittings and tools for that.
How do you know by marking it were in the bending tool it has to be so it's in the correct position
When bending exhaust pipe the mark was always in the middle and on top.
Maybe same with brake lines?
Adam was marking the tubing where the bend should start and end then lining it up in the tubing bender with that info. So he'd have a black mark that was where the bend needed to be. Once you make one bend you'll see how it all lines up.
Curious if you know what that "spring" is that around the factory brake line.
Keeps tubing safe from any rubbing from vibration
It's brakeline armor - some people run it while other's don't. Adam wanted a cleaner look so opted for none.
www.eastwood.com/3-16-stainless-steel-brakeline-armor-3ft.html
Nice job but music is way too loud !