ive,watched several videos before this.and they seem to talk too much. but yours is straight to the point. awesome job with your video. thank you .keep em coming
Been doing electrical and welding for some time now, and wow. I always thought that brake and steel fuel lines were voodoo. Nice video. Very well explained.
... funny, I felt the same about electrical. Going to tackle the welding next. AMAZING, "The MORE you know" neat stuff this here, YT. BTW The NICOPP line is the best thing since sliced bread.
Good job with the commentary as well as the video. Just did a couple of "practice" flares tonight in anticipation of the real thing one of these days. This really helped. Thanks
Very good, and safe video! I'm 69 years old and have used this tool many times ( wrongly ) I must add. I never had that small black tool for the double flaring. It's so much better doing it this way! My way worked , but this is much better and a clean looking job.
I too am a changed man. Remember when Moses went up the mountain and when he came down his hair was white and his face was golden? That happened to me.
Benjamin, great video, very complete and timely ... I just had to cut off my old brake line and didn't want to have to replace the entire steel line from the Master Cylinder to my wheel. I'm hoping I have enough room to flare the steel tubing so that I can put in the splice.
Great Video, Thanks for the Flare Tool Explanation and disapproval of compression fittings for Brake lines. I would feel confident riding on this type of repair.
Nice job. Flare looks good to me . I've tried over 50 flares in the last week , on 1/4 " ni-cop , never came close to what he did . Looks like a good chamfered end is a critical step as part of the prep .
Thanks for that Ben. I bought cheap flare tool at Canadian tire(same as yours) with instructions not included. It was still 28$+ 13%tax made in China of course, and they too cheap to put a piece of paper with instructions in it. Glad you put your vid up it was very helpful.
Hi Ben, loved the video. I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a rusted area I need to replace. This gave me the information I need to get going on a fix so thank you!!
Thanks for this. My car just failed inspection due to a couple compression fittings (which have worked fine for years). So now I've got to go replace them within 30 or my registration gets dropped.
Great video. You make it look easy. I have to use some real torque on the original brake line. I've been using the ends of the removed section of brake line to practice, and I'm glad I am... Because my first attempt at flaring turned out terrible, and I'll be doing this to the existing line still on the vehicle. It's going to take some real rigging to keep the existing line stable and also keep from bending/breaking it while flaring. Oh! That little black part of the flaring tool is called an adapter. 😉
Thanks Benjamin. About to do my lines now; but they are metal and one is installed on the vehicle. I think it will be a bit more difficult! Great video though.
Thanks, this was really helpful, I had never done this so of course the first ones I had to do it with were the spiral ones that come out of the ABS unit on the S-10. But I got it done. The crazy thing is I replaced one 1/4 line with 3/16 and it was fine and didn't leak. Very happy I got copper nickel because I was able to bend by hand without kinking and they flare easily too and won't rust. I even reused the fittings, you can reuse them if the threads and sealing surface is good, light surface rust makes no difference. I also second the idea that your tubing cutter needs to be sharp and the cut straight.
Good video, Benjamin, thanks. I am putting my 1950 Ford Deluxe Custom Coupe back together and have to build up a couple fuel lines...this helps a bunch! (I'm also buying the same flaring tool kit...)
Thank You So Much! I've never seven seen these tools. before and when I ask about stuff like this at an auto parts store, they look at me like "what kind of man are you??". Well, the kind who didn't get the chance to learn this as a kid, but someone who loses money just by trying to do this work myself. None of that matters. What matters is the felling I get for having done something with my own hands hat didn't need a computer interface. I also prefer driving cars that are 2009 or older. Lot of reasons why so that is another thread. However, my ego days rare gone and if a woman can see past my junker, she would learn I could buy a few new cars. Again. NOT THE POI?NT! Sorry...LOVED the video but rough day lol. My bad. Great stuff and am a brand new member!
Thanks good video getting ready to splice into a brake line on my truck am still torn about using compression fittings or flaring the line I only drive this truck less than 100 miles a year
I used the flared end by the distribution block and used a compression fitting just in front of the fuel tank. Because the line is leaking behind the fuel tank. So far so good
How do you measure for the length of the new section of brakeline,presuming you cut out a section that was bad? The new section would have a union on both ends,so how would that affect the length of the new section before you added the flare fittings and two unions?
Nice job Benjamin, I need to replace a section of my rear brake line on a 1982 Fiat Spider. I anticipate trouble to cut and drag a line out a line buried under the car. I could replace the whole line but not looking forward to weaving and bending all the way back from the master cylinder. I will be going Steel to Steel as I have unused line here at home and I do understand that the copper nickel is much easier to work with but...$$. Working with the flare too under the car in tight spaces sounds rough but doable.. I wonder if the original brake lines on this care are metric and would require a metric flare tool..? Additionally, would a metric junction be r
+Bruce Hendricks When I was working on my Civic I believe the lines were actually metric but matched exactly with 3/16ths line. You'll probably be fine with standard sizes and tools if yours is similar.
Good video info, but you can't use it. You forgot to add the other nut before you flared it. Now you will have to cut the flare off put the nut on and replace the line😅
Helped me understand and know but I'm still paying someone to install a new turbo oil coolant line since I crossed thread the very part he was putting together
I went to my auto parts store and asked the guy for some little black tool thingys for my flaring kit and he punched me in the face and told me never to come back and I dont know why
I HAVE BEEN WATCHING A LOT VIDEO ABOUT DOUBLE FLARE👍👍✌️✌️✌️AFTER CUTTING TUBE 😱😱😱😱😱IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT DEBURR TUBE CORRECTLY OTHERWISE SEAT WILL NOT COME CORRECTLY👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍👍🇵🇰👍👍👍🇵🇰🇺🇸
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ive,watched several videos before this.and they seem to talk too much. but yours is straight to the point. awesome job with your video. thank you .keep em coming
Been doing electrical and welding for some time now, and wow. I always thought that brake and steel fuel lines were voodoo. Nice video. Very well explained.
... funny, I felt the same about electrical. Going to tackle the welding next. AMAZING, "The MORE you know" neat stuff this here, YT. BTW The NICOPP line is the best thing since sliced bread.
Good job with the commentary as well as the video. Just did a couple of "practice" flares tonight in anticipation of the real thing one of these days. This really helped.
Thanks
Great video Ben! Your patient and thorough explanation gave me the confidence to tackle my busted brake line this morning.
dude... thaank you!!! best video on replacing brake lines with a diy flared fitting yet... *off to the store*
Very good, and safe video! I'm 69 years old and have used this tool many times (
wrongly ) I must add. I never had that small black tool for the double flaring. It's so much better doing it this way! My way worked , but this is much better and a clean looking job.
Your video has changed me from steel to nickle. Very good video. Thanks
Sloan Pilgrim and was your install successful? Did yu buy a big loop of line and separate fittings or the pre-cut lengths with fittings at ea. end?
I too am a changed man. Remember when Moses went up the mountain and when he came down his hair was white and his face was golden? That happened to me.
Benjamin, great video, very complete and timely ... I just had to cut off my old brake line and didn't want to have to replace the entire steel line from the Master Cylinder to my wheel. I'm hoping I have enough room to flare the steel tubing so that I can put in the splice.
Great Video, Thanks for the Flare Tool Explanation and disapproval of compression fittings for Brake lines. I would feel confident riding on this type of repair.
Nice job. Flare looks good to me . I've tried over 50 flares in the last week , on 1/4 " ni-cop , never came close to what he did . Looks like a good chamfered end is a critical step as part of the prep .
Thanks for that Ben. I bought cheap flare tool at Canadian tire(same as yours) with instructions not included. It was still 28$+ 13%tax made in China of course, and they too cheap to put a piece of paper with instructions in it. Glad you put your vid up it was very helpful.
Hi Ben, loved the video. I have a 2000 Grand Prix with a rusted area I need to replace. This gave me the information I need to get going on a fix so thank you!!
Good job and nice close up video shots , I have never done a brake pipe before , but! thanks to your video I am about to give it a go.
Best video I have seem on this subject. Your detailed explanation were very helpful. Thanks for making the video.
Nicely done video. This will help in fabricating custom brass oil lines on my motorcycle.
Good job w/ the video and commentary ... I have spliced my share of lines before but, the refresher definitely helped, thanks ...
Great video, very detailed and informative, and one of the best I have watched! Your explanation and demonstration make it easy to follow. Great job!
well done, the camera is so close i could see everything in detail! makes it much easier to understand thanks Benjamin
Excellent video and the commentary was superb!
Thanks for this. My car just failed inspection due to a couple compression fittings (which have worked fine for years). So now I've got to go replace them within 30 or my registration gets dropped.
You are very percise great job couldn’t be said better thank you
Great video. You make it look easy.
I have to use some real torque on the original brake line.
I've been using the ends of the removed section of brake line to practice, and I'm glad I am... Because my first attempt at flaring turned out terrible, and I'll be doing this to the existing line still on the vehicle.
It's going to take some real rigging to keep the existing line stable and also keep from bending/breaking it while flaring.
Oh! That little black part of the flaring tool is called an adapter. 😉
One thing that you should point out is not to forget to have two fittings on the line when you double flare the second flare on the line.
Thanks Benjamin. About to do my lines now; but they are metal and one is installed on the vehicle. I think it will be a bit more difficult! Great video though.
Thanks, this was really helpful, I had never done this so of course the first ones I had to do it with were the spiral ones that come out of the ABS unit on the S-10. But I got it done. The crazy thing is I replaced one 1/4 line with 3/16 and it was fine and didn't leak. Very happy I got copper nickel because I was able to bend by hand without kinking and they flare easily too and won't rust. I even reused the fittings, you can reuse them if the threads and sealing surface is good, light surface rust makes no difference. I also second the idea that your tubing cutter needs to be sharp and the cut straight.
Good video, Benjamin, thanks. I am putting my 1950 Ford Deluxe Custom Coupe back together and have to build up a couple fuel lines...this helps a bunch! (I'm also buying the same flaring tool kit...)
Double thumbs up! Informative and very good, quality close-up video the others don't have.
Thanks. Loved that you did it up close.
Great job. It had been years since I attempted to replace a brake line and your video was a good refresher. Thanks!!!
Use oil to help make them smoother with cheap tools
This was very well done and very helpful. Exactly what I needed. Even has the exact same flare tool as me. Thanks.
Geat job Benjamin very helpful going to give it a try.
Gr8 job! Clear, concise and idiot proof! Thanks man!
Exactly what i was looking for. Thank you!!
If you are working on steel brake fluid line use ATG's bubble/double fare tool.
It will also be easier when working under the car with limited spaces.
Good video.. But the trick to a get a good flare, is a good flaring tool. Believe it or not, they can be hard to find..
Thank You So Much! I've never seven seen these tools. before and when I ask about stuff like this at an auto parts store, they look at me like "what kind of man are you??". Well, the kind who didn't get the chance to learn this as a kid, but someone who loses money just by trying to do this work myself. None of that matters. What matters is the felling I get for having done something with my own hands hat didn't need a computer interface. I also prefer driving cars that are 2009 or older. Lot of reasons why so that is another thread. However, my ego days rare gone and if a woman can see past my junker, she would learn I could buy a few new cars. Again. NOT THE POI?NT! Sorry...LOVED the video but rough day lol. My bad. Great stuff and am a brand new member!
Thanks good video getting ready to splice into a brake line on my truck am still torn about using compression fittings or flaring the line I only drive this truck less than 100 miles a year
John Heilig flare fittings can't handle the pressure of brake lines. Just a matter of time before it fails. Safety first
John Do you mean the compression fitting because the end of the brake lines are flared.
I used the flared end by the distribution block and used a compression fitting just in front of the fuel tank. Because the line is leaking behind the fuel tank. So far so good
This truck is only driven rarely and only within twenty miles on country roads
I guess it depends on how important it is to you to have brakes when you need to have brakes?
Excellent tutorial
This is really well done, thank you.
excellent video very clear super and explained well
Very helpful. Thank you for posting.
Excellent video.
Thank you bud for the vid.
How do you measure for the length of the new section of brakeline,presuming you cut out a section that was bad? The new section would have a union on both ends,so how would that affect the length of the new section before you added the flare fittings and two unions?
Thank you for details how to do that.
Nice job Benjamin, I need to replace a section of my rear brake line on a 1982 Fiat Spider. I anticipate trouble to cut and drag a line out a line buried under the car. I could replace the whole line but not looking forward to weaving and bending all the way back from the master cylinder. I will be going Steel to Steel as I have unused line here at home and I do understand that the copper nickel is much easier to work with but...$$. Working with the flare too under the car in tight spaces sounds rough but doable.. I wonder if the original brake lines on this care are metric and would require a metric flare tool..? Additionally, would a metric junction be r
+Bruce Hendricks When I was working on my Civic I believe the lines were actually metric but matched exactly with 3/16ths line. You'll probably be fine with standard sizes and tools if yours is similar.
great job on the video
Excellent video, thanks
very helpful man. Thanks a lot
excellent video, well done!
How much extra length do you add for the the flair?
yes thank you for your help worked good
Nice flare. Hard to get quality results with the handheld tool.
You should clamp the tool in a vise!
can i use brass fitting on steal line?
👍thanks Benjamin
good video ! thanks
Great job!
nice video thanks
This is a lot harder to do if you're piece is already installed on the vehicle and you have to file and create the flare.
Exactly, Especially on the back breaks. OMG
it seems impossible :(
Does the copper brake line hold up better than the meta brake lines, I see that is easier to work with. Your flare were dang near perfect.
ni cop brake lines are easier to bend and they dont rust.
very useful thank you ..
thank you
My flare tool doesn’t even scratch the steel lines on my Jetta. Anyone have a workaround?
helped me thanks
is that a compression fitting?
No it's a flare union. Compression fittings are illegal for inspection in places like the Rust Belt.
Thanks!
You don’t show the harder one.
The brake line in the car it was super difficult to make a bubble/double flare.
That dimple is actually a recess
Good video info, but you can't use it. You forgot to add the other nut before you flared it. Now you will have to cut the flare off put the nut on and replace the line😅
Dude, it's a 3 inch piece of line, used for a demonstration. Give the guy a break. Use common sense. Good video by the way. 🤦♂️
@@elisardososa8588
Dude, Demonstrations need to be accurate!
Helped me understand and know but I'm still paying someone to install a new turbo oil coolant line since I crossed thread the very part he was putting together
You forgot to put the other fittin on before you flared up one of the ends
Blind leading the blind
You da bomb dot com
I don't like the brass union...a steel one is best.
This won't work on stainless steel brake lines! You need a better flaring tool and stainless steel unions.
I went to my auto parts store and asked the guy for some little black tool thingys for my flaring kit and he punched me in the face and told me never to come back and I dont know why
Mr Mike LMBO
Mr Mike you probably deserved it :)
Yep, I had a similar situation at the pharmacy when I asked the pharmacist how to use Preparation H....except I punched him in the face!
I HAVE BEEN WATCHING A LOT VIDEO ABOUT DOUBLE FLARE👍👍✌️✌️✌️AFTER CUTTING TUBE 😱😱😱😱😱IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT DEBURR TUBE CORRECTLY OTHERWISE SEAT WILL NOT COME CORRECTLY👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍👍👍🇵🇰👍👍👍🇵🇰🇺🇸
Brake is spelled, Brake not Break. You should correct your spelling before you post.
Calm down Muppet.
Black thingy is a die, shiny thingy is a pipe clamp, otherwise a good video 👍🏼🧐